*Brand New Lineup of Full and Thin Kerf CMT Chrome Saw Blades - use code KMT10CMT for extra 10% off* kmtools.com/collections/cmt-saw-blades *Blade Cleaner* - shop.kmtools.com/bladecleaner *Comprehensive Guide to Saw Blades Blog* - shop.kmtools.com/bladesblog *Table Saw Blade Sharpening Video* th-cam.com/video/OSXacCeEZu4/w-d-xo.html *How to Tell When Your Saw Blade is Dull* th-cam.com/video/ItaxJMBmsOg/w-d-xo.html *Video Refresher* *Thin Kerf VS Full Kerf* Thin is better if your saw has less than 1.5 HP. If your saw is more than 1.5hp get the Full Kerf. A Thin Kerf blade is great to have in the arsenal regardless for those times you want to save as much wood as possible. Also great for preserving exposed joinery and grain match when removing box lids. *Ripping Blade 24T* The best for rip cuts and terrible at crosscuts. My most used blades. *Crosscut Blade 60T/80T* Fantastic for crosscuts but terrible at rip cuts. Low or negative rake makes them great in the Miter Saw or for fine cuts in plywood. *General Purpose Blade 40T* Great all around blade for non repetitive cuts in wood UNDER 1.25”. Great for shop jigs and plywood. *Combination Blade 50T* Great all around blade for non repetitive cuts up to 2 and 1/8” inch thick. Not good for plywood though. *Dado Stack* Best for dados, grooves, rabbets, half laps, bridal joints, and hogging out material when you’re not cutting all the way through. Central City Tool Supply Saw Sharpening (in Santa Maria, CA) bit.ly/CentralCitySawSharpening
You mention less than and more than 1.5hp. However what if your table saw is *equal to* 1.5 hp (as mine is 😂). In my search on the web it seems to be up in the air and have even seen some rather large debates. What is your opinion?
I'm still undecided on which to get...I can only afford one right now...sigh. @KatzMosesTools Tamar 3x3 customs speaks highly of you so you are part of my research. I see blades with slice or openings every so far along...it's my understanding it's to help cool the blade. If I have a blade with none...is it safe to make my own thin spaces or cut outs? If so is there a particular shape or size and how deep would I go? I inherited a bunch of blades from an uncle when he passed away.
I cannot emphasize enough how much you have helped my woodworking. I love the down to earth teaching style. I have been building things for two decades, but have just now bought wood glue. I have always used screws for everything - but to be fair, I was always framing. Not wood working. You have given me the confidence, and knowledge to build my first real piece of furniture. I love the channel, love the content.
Awesome book that gives you step-by-step photos th-cam.com/users/postUgkxTNB_zFBSnTo_O1PqfVUwgi7ityw0JlKt and directions to make every day project. I can see myself making a few of these projects and giving them as housewarming and holiday gifts!
One of the writers for the old American Woodworker, when asked how do you know when your blade is dull commented, "if you are setting off the smoke alarms, that is a pretty good indicator."
Just started doing simple Shaker cabinet doors and you've already helped out a bunch. I watched your tips for new woodworkers and learned why my tongue and grooves weren't consistent from entry side to the exit side. Doing them in 3 passes removing a little material at a time made gave me perfect results. No more hogging for me!
I just purchased a week ago the CMT full kurf Gen purpose and the thin kurf combo from your and your store is extremely easy to follow and understand what each blade is used for. Extremely satisfied, definitely recommend you to everyone for blades.
"... the shims come in at anything from very very thin to a little bit thicker..." - Probably my favourite sentence in the whole video. You've got a great presentation style Jonathan it its just how I would describe such things. Love it.
Great video Jonathan. Lots of great information for us. I wish I could hear as fast as you talk, though. I will need to watch this video about three more times to feel like I got everything. Thanks for sharing it. I'm a fan of CMT blades and will be using then exclusively from now on.
I just received my Fine Woodworking magazine. Imagine my surprise to see a tool I purchased from you several years ago that I use very often. Congratulations on being included in the “Dovetail guide section “. I have found it to be an excellent tool at a reasonable price.
Glad to hear you’re doing better. Also like the fact that you’re selling these on your website. You’re the reason I bought my first blade from CMT. It’s been a great to work with and I plan on buying more but this time from you to support the channel! Keep up the great work!
I bought one of the cmt blades you recommended from the video back when you went to the blade sharpening place. I previously had a Freud cause I thought it was close enough to good. The difference in cut quality is more than night an day. I just can't even believe how much better of a blade it is. It feels like my saw gained an extra HP or something. The cuts feel less dangerous cause I'm not pushing the cut through, it's just gliding through instead. It is seriously a big deal everyone should invest in.
I wish I could pin this comment. It's the absolute truth! Thanks for sharing my friend! Side note: the brother who designed the Freud blades started the CMT line just 4 years ago. Since coming on board he's been awarded more than 10 patents for blade technology. He's done all the things Freud wouldn't let him do because they wanted to keep costs down.
Ive been framing for 25 years and never really put much thought into blades other than what i thought was thin kerf is best ive been using a Diablo 24 tooth for years now but i just bought a 60 tooth saw blade for some architectural concrete forming ive been doing and i love it so im here to learn what blades are best for what.
Dude that is some awesome slow motion footage, lovin it. I learn so much here. I had no idea the cmt blades were that affordable, might have to pick some up when I order my apron.
Nice video. When I started with my JSS Pro (1.5HP) from SawStop, I purchased several quality thin kerf blades just to discover that they caused pinching between the riving knife and the fence, so I switched over full kerf blades (CMT Chrome & Amana Electro-Blu) and all my problems went away.
So many woodworkers are so old school, which in a way I love. But I also love how modern and tech savvy you are, to the point to where you really do know a lot about pro video production like you actually work in film production! Great stuff man
Interestingly, all the woodworking channels I see, the people are expert computer programmer geniuses, who just happen to make a living doing woodworking in their extremely fancy climate controlled commercial work spaces. I can only think of one woodworking channel I've found that the guy doesn't seem to be an expert level video editor, and he just happens to be the only person TH-cam making radial arm saw content. This guy. th-cam.com/video/C2BBY0h_foY/w-d-xo.html
Inrecently bought a CMT blade and all that I can say is wow! I am hooked will buy these moving forward unless i need one ASAP since box stores don’t carry them.
Awesome video. One thing to add though, the difference in the plate thickness on the thin kerf VS thick kerf and how that can influence stability of the blade. Forrest, for instance, recommends to use a blade stiffener on the thin kerf because they can sometimes flutter due to that thinner plate.
In my personal experience a blade stiffener severely limits your cutting depth and doesn't have a noticeable effect in my opinion. I could certainly see a use for it in some harder woods but I used one for about a year because someone recommended it and then once I took it off I never went back.
@@katzmosestools I definitely agree with it limiting the depth of cut. I have one and never use it, but I also only use full kerf blades since I have the Industrial Sawstop. It'd be interesting to see if there are situations where you could cause the flutter and compare one with and one without the stiffener. Maybe it is just snake oil, idk
I think this video is going to cost me a lot of money 🤫 I’ve understood different blade types before but never really respected it enough to ever using anything but a combination blade, except when I’m using thin veneer plywood. I’ve used TSP to clean my Blade before and it took off all the markings, so it probably would do the same for the slick coating as well. Thanks for this in-depth look at this, Jonathan.
Excellent presentation! Well presented, a few frames of slow motion conveys more information and knowledge than a half hour of verbal explanation. If other power tools presentations use this format and level of research into the subject at hand you may set a high bar for others to achieve and likely raise the level of an entire industry.
Great video on multiple fronts. - lots of good info! - great slow mo, besides being cool, it really helps understanding what our blades are doing. I agree on the premium blade being a consideration. I have both a CMT crosscut (IIRC at your suggestion a while ago) and a Ridge Carbide rip blade. Love them.
This video made me realize that I'm stupidly using a combination blade on my miter saw. I just ordered a nice CMT crosscut blade from your shop. Thanks!
Best you have done, thank you. New technology provides new information. Expecting you to review all the various saw brands is silly. We now have a good picture of what the blades do.
We need a sawblade brand shootout like the sandpaper test! It would hard to do, but I know you could do an awesome job at it. Go all out and put the winner in your store 😝
I've been working with hardwood a lot more lately and this information makes a lot of sense now. Bought a big ass piece of purple heart, maple and cherry recently. Each 8-9' long, 3" thick, 8-10" wide. Do not recommend repetitive rip cuts on 2" purple heart using a delta 76-725 on a 15 amp circuit with an 80 tooth crosscut blade. Picked up a CMT 201.024.10 for this type of work and while I have not had a chance to use it due to being sick from the plague, I'm excited to see what it's all about. Hoping it speeds things up! 🙏
The manual says you should run that saw on a dedicated 20A circuit to put less stress on the motor. If you're cutting a lot of super hard wood like that, it's definitely worth upgrading the circuit to protect the saw.
Glad to see you are doing well, been awhile, me too, changing gears at this point, come with age I suppose. I'll be checking out you shop, perhaps I could use a new blade or two for the table saw, the miter has gotten most of the new blades of late, but in changing gears, the table saw will need a new set, plus with be researching your collection of blafe and bit sharpening job shops! Safety first, last, and in between, provides for happy fabrications! PS. Well damn the bad luck, guess I have to make a 150 mile round trip you're sold out of the blades I like to use! ...maybe next time!
Great break down for each type of blade, thanks for all the info. I would love to see more of the slow mo videos, maybe something between the different types of blades or cutting edge.
I found a CMT dado stack at a furniture builder's closeout... unfortunately I think the teeth are shot on this so I'll be using that code for sure! My first experience with CMT was this dade, even though it's shot it cut alright so I bought a 60T from woodcraft a few months ago and have loved it. Happy you're carrying them and I can support you!
Another fantastic video! Something that could be beneficial is to talk about riving knives with different thickness blades as well? Just a thought, keep up the great work 👍👍
Great info as usual. I need to watch again and take notes. I've got an old (80's vintage) Craftsman 12" direct drive table saw and have always been torn about buying 10" blades for it, feeling like I'm cheating myself out of the extra radius. Thinking rationally about it, the only time it would make a noticable difference is if I'm trying to resaw or otherwise cut through extra thick materials, so I probably shouldn't feel bad about using the smaller blades. Do you have any thoughts about this? Is there anything else I might be missing out on by using blades smaller than the capacity of the same? Thanks for sharing!
Good information, thank you for sharing with us! Enjoyed seeing the show motion shots showing how each blade acts. While watching, I looked over your shoulder and saw nick cage in a shop apron, when did that happen?
Great content Jonathan, but I echo other comments about talking fast. You’re an amazing orator and teacher but maybe try to slow down about 10% or so. 👍👍
Great video! For ripping ¾" plywood at a 45 degree angle, wanting a clean cut but avoid burning, what would you suggest? (I am getting burning with my 40 tooth ATB blade from Ridge Carbide)
Now do the same video with bandsaw blades- different sets, tpi, width, tensions, etc. That's one episode. Then do the same with jigsaw blades. Another episode. Finally do the same with scroll saw blades. Another episode. You already understand pictures (high speed video) are worth a thousand words....
I’ve actually started using 7-1/4” blades on my table saw full time, until I need to make a full depth cut. But 99% of the time I’m cutting 1-1/2” or less thick material and the 7-1/4” are cheaper, thinner, easier on my saw, and quieter. And cheaper 😁
Really interesting video, good to see the slow motion of the various blades. Also good to see that we both use the same CMT blades, I too have found them to be extremely well made! Are these also available as Infinity in the states? Some of their cutters have the same part numbers as the CMT ones?
Jonathan... Great content, excellent teaching skills. I was wondering if you could suggest an overall / all around CMT ripping blade for my 2hp DeWalt contractor table saw (DWS7491) , and an overall / all around cross cut CMT blade for my 12" DeWalt miter saw? Just want to start my collection and need your help. Thank you! Keep up the good work.
What would be the best blade choice for acacia butcher block? How do we know if we should go crosscut or rip if the butcher block is a mishmash of different grains, directions, etc.? Specifically I am thinking about a traditional crosscut to shorten the length. Thanks
Great info and slo mo video Jonathan but consider slowing down the explanations a bit ;) I had to go back and forward multiple times to ingest all your excellent info.
Great information, lots of details and love the slo-mo stuff. But this one was like drinking water from a fire hydrant, dude lay off the caffeine, it's ok to breathe. 🤣✌Thanks!!
Great footage. Thank you for the effort and quality Johnathan. With respect to the cleaning of blades. Folks, simple green and sooo many other things are fine for your blades. I’m sure the blade companies would love to sell you their magical blade cleaner, hell it probably is simple green. It’s not going to remove coatings. Just need to deploy a little common sense, I don’t think the coating that’s made to stand up to being scraped through hard woods at 4000rpm for years is going to wash away from a cleaner that won’t even harm your grass. Just my unscientific opinion. Keep up the good work! Respectfully
Thanks for your kind words my friend. You can trust I do extensive research for these videos. I stopped using simple green as soon as I saw that. The CMT stuff we carry seems to work better and has even won an independent test by wood magazine. It's really good which is why I carry it.
@@katzmosestools all good info, thank you. I can’t be the only one who hears their grandfather giggle a bit when we hear some of the marketing. I’m just a home gamer woodworker. The day I get a couple grand for a piece is the day start doing a deeper dive on cleaner. Thanks for the support you guys give to the community. I’ll def buy some CMT blades from you. Be well.
Not a comment but a table saw question. I have a Grizzly cabinet saw with a right tilting blade. Is it safe to cut a 60 degree angle with the fence on the right side of the blade.
I currently have the 8 1/4in dewalt table saw. Could you recommend where I can get some decent 8 1/4in table saw blades. Eventually I will upgrade to the 10'' table saw. Thanks
Wow! I agree with the others, that slow motion footage is amazing and very helpful in understanding how the various teeth do their work. That was also a lot of information delivered rapidly…may I humbly suggest a summary chart(s) that could be screen shot for reference appearing at the end of the video? Thank you.
I'm glad you're doing well, I was kind of bummed I haven't had any push notifications for you lately. Now I'm going through some sickness is good to have quality videos to watch. Keep em coming.
Great tutorial! Questions on the use of thin kerf blades... Do you find it a benefit to use (a) blade stabilizer(s) with them to reduce possible wobble? Are they worth the expense? Also... any benefit to placing a spacer/shim between the thin kerf blade and saw arbor, so that the blade to fence distance remains the same as that for a full kerf? I assume switching between thin and full causes the saw fence scale to be thrown off by the difference between the blades (meaning you may have to re-adjust the fence scale each time because the cut distance changes). Just looking for help before I investigate further. Tx!
I have never found a stabilizer to make a noticeable difference. It is way thicker that the 1/32 difference between a full and thin and cause you to lose a lot.of cutting capacity. You DON'T want to put it between the motor and the blade. The correct side is the nut side. Will cause all sorts of problems with the riving knife and the drive shaft.
@@katzmosestools Appreciate the fast reply! Understood... on the stabilizer use. What about shimming the thin kerf blade to make the right side of the blade align with a full kerf (again, so the blade to fence cut distance does not change)? My old Craftsman does not have a riving knife and I use a MicroJig MJ Splitter (one setup for thin, one for full kerf). Tx again!
*Brand New Lineup of Full and Thin Kerf CMT Chrome Saw Blades - use code KMT10CMT for extra 10% off* kmtools.com/collections/cmt-saw-blades
*Blade Cleaner* - shop.kmtools.com/bladecleaner
*Comprehensive Guide to Saw Blades Blog* - shop.kmtools.com/bladesblog
*Table Saw Blade Sharpening Video* th-cam.com/video/OSXacCeEZu4/w-d-xo.html
*How to Tell When Your Saw Blade is Dull* th-cam.com/video/ItaxJMBmsOg/w-d-xo.html
*Video Refresher*
*Thin Kerf VS Full Kerf* Thin is better if your saw has less than 1.5 HP. If your saw is more than 1.5hp get the Full Kerf. A Thin Kerf blade is great to have in the arsenal regardless for those times you want to save as much wood as possible. Also great for preserving exposed joinery and grain match when removing box lids.
*Ripping Blade 24T* The best for rip cuts and terrible at crosscuts. My most used blades.
*Crosscut Blade 60T/80T* Fantastic for crosscuts but terrible at rip cuts. Low or negative rake makes them great in the Miter Saw or for fine cuts in plywood.
*General Purpose Blade 40T* Great all around blade for non repetitive cuts in wood UNDER 1.25”. Great for shop jigs and plywood.
*Combination Blade 50T* Great all around blade for non repetitive cuts up to 2 and 1/8” inch thick. Not good for plywood though.
*Dado Stack* Best for dados, grooves, rabbets, half laps, bridal joints, and hogging out material when you’re not cutting all the way through.
Central City Tool Supply Saw Sharpening (in Santa Maria, CA) bit.ly/CentralCitySawSharpening
Just ordered a 60T for ripping some Walnut lamination strips for rocking chairs. I’ll put it to the test.
You mention less than and more than 1.5hp. However what if your table saw is *equal to* 1.5 hp (as mine is 😂). In my search on the web it seems to be up in the air and have even seen some rather large debates. What is your opinion?
I don’t know why but my cmt tk combo does better then their 80 tooth and my TK Freud glue line blade
I'm still undecided on which to get...I can only afford one right now...sigh. @KatzMosesTools Tamar 3x3 customs speaks highly of you so you are part of my research. I see blades with slice or openings every so far along...it's my understanding it's to help cool the blade. If I have a blade with none...is it safe to make my own thin spaces or cut outs? If so is there a particular shape or size and how deep would I go? I inherited a bunch of blades from an uncle when he passed away.
I cannot emphasize enough how much you have helped my woodworking. I love the down to earth teaching style. I have been building things for two decades, but have just now bought wood glue. I have always used screws for everything - but to be fair, I was always framing. Not wood working.
You have given me the confidence, and knowledge to build my first real piece of furniture. I love the channel, love the content.
Chris, could not have said it better. I came to the comments to leave a very similar message. 😊
Awesome book that gives you step-by-step photos th-cam.com/users/postUgkxTNB_zFBSnTo_O1PqfVUwgi7ityw0JlKt and directions to make every day project. I can see myself making a few of these projects and giving them as housewarming and holiday gifts!
One of the writers for the old American Woodworker, when asked how do you know when your blade is dull commented, "if you are setting off the smoke alarms, that is a pretty good indicator."
Hahaha that's awesome!
Man that slowmo is crazy!! It's wild how the teeth just plane the shavings off in that footage. Awesome video Jonathan!
Thanks my friend!
Just started doing simple Shaker cabinet doors and you've already helped out a bunch. I watched your tips for new woodworkers and learned why my tongue and grooves weren't consistent from entry side to the exit side. Doing them in 3 passes removing a little material at a time made gave me perfect results. No more hogging for me!
As we say in Italy: "The more you spend the less you spend". Thank you Jonathan for sponsoring this fantastic Italian company!
I just purchased a week ago the CMT full kurf Gen purpose and the thin kurf combo from your and your store is extremely easy to follow and understand what each blade is used for. Extremely satisfied, definitely recommend you to everyone for blades.
We used to rent the high speed camera for failure analysis. They are awesome. Nice to see it used in educating others.
"... the shims come in at anything from very very thin to a little bit thicker..." - Probably my favourite sentence in the whole video. You've got a great presentation style Jonathan it its just how I would describe such things. Love it.
The slow-mo cam footage is amazing. I can now visualize the cutting process and get a better idea of what blade to use.
Basically, you have created The Bible for Saw Blades. You’ve got several great epistles now. Thank you. I’ve learned a lot.
That was the goal hahaha. Thanks brother
Great video Jonathan. Lots of great information for us. I wish I could hear as fast as you talk, though. I will need to watch this video about three more times to feel like I got everything. Thanks for sharing it. I'm a fan of CMT blades and will be using then exclusively from now on.
That footage is a game changer and your depth of detail on this subject is the most educational video yet! Bravo good sir!
I just received my Fine Woodworking magazine. Imagine my surprise to see a tool I purchased from you several years ago that I use very often. Congratulations on being included in the “Dovetail guide section “. I have found it to be an excellent tool at a reasonable price.
one of the best explanations I've ever seen about blades. greetings from Brazil
Feed speed (how fast you push the wood) and the great slow motion video would be great to see. Glad you back and doing well.
Glad to hear you’re doing better. Also like the fact that you’re selling these on your website. You’re the reason I bought my first blade from CMT. It’s been a great to work with and I plan on buying more but this time from you to support the channel! Keep up the great work!
I bought one of the cmt blades you recommended from the video back when you went to the blade sharpening place. I previously had a Freud cause I thought it was close enough to good. The difference in cut quality is more than night an day. I just can't even believe how much better of a blade it is. It feels like my saw gained an extra HP or something. The cuts feel less dangerous cause I'm not pushing the cut through, it's just gliding through instead. It is seriously a big deal everyone should invest in.
I wish I could pin this comment. It's the absolute truth! Thanks for sharing my friend! Side note: the brother who designed the Freud blades started the CMT line just 4 years ago. Since coming on board he's been awarded more than 10 patents for blade technology. He's done all the things Freud wouldn't let him do because they wanted to keep costs down.
Ive been framing for 25 years and never really put much thought into blades other than what i thought was thin kerf is best ive been using a Diablo 24 tooth for years now but i just bought a 60 tooth saw blade for some architectural concrete forming ive been doing and i love it so im here to learn what blades are best for what.
Great info, and awesome shots. Thanks. Glad you are feeling better, and returned.
I really appreciate all the info on saw blades. I'm a 50 year nail bender & every blade info video I watch I learn something. Thanks again
Dude that is some awesome slow motion footage, lovin it. I learn so much here. I had no idea the cmt blades were that affordable, might have to pick some up when I order my apron.
Nice video. When I started with my JSS Pro (1.5HP) from SawStop, I purchased several quality thin kerf blades just to discover that they caused pinching between the riving knife and the fence, so I switched over full kerf blades (CMT Chrome & Amana Electro-Blu) and all my problems went away.
So many woodworkers are so old school, which in a way I love. But I also love how modern and tech savvy you are, to the point to where you really do know a lot about pro video production like you actually work in film production! Great stuff man
Interestingly, all the woodworking channels I see, the people are expert computer programmer geniuses, who just happen to make a living doing woodworking in their extremely fancy climate controlled commercial work spaces. I can only think of one woodworking channel I've found that the guy doesn't seem to be an expert level video editor, and he just happens to be the only person TH-cam making radial arm saw content. This guy. th-cam.com/video/C2BBY0h_foY/w-d-xo.html
Thank You for your explanation and I do agree that spending more can often cost less
Great video. Great Information. Awesome human. Miss ya KM!
Inrecently bought a CMT blade and all that I can say is wow! I am hooked will buy these moving forward unless i need one ASAP since box stores don’t carry them.
Jonathan, I'm glad you are back and healthy. Thank you for the great information; well done!
Awesome video. One thing to add though, the difference in the plate thickness on the thin kerf VS thick kerf and how that can influence stability of the blade. Forrest, for instance, recommends to use a blade stiffener on the thin kerf because they can sometimes flutter due to that thinner plate.
In my personal experience a blade stiffener severely limits your cutting depth and doesn't have a noticeable effect in my opinion. I could certainly see a use for it in some harder woods but I used one for about a year because someone recommended it and then once I took it off I never went back.
@@katzmosestools I definitely agree with it limiting the depth of cut. I have one and never use it, but I also only use full kerf blades since I have the Industrial Sawstop. It'd be interesting to see if there are situations where you could cause the flutter and compare one with and one without the stiffener. Maybe it is just snake oil, idk
I think this video is going to cost me a lot of money 🤫 I’ve understood different blade types before but never really respected it enough to ever using anything but a combination blade, except when I’m using thin veneer plywood. I’ve used TSP to clean my Blade before and it took off all the markings, so it probably would do the same for the slick coating as well. Thanks for this in-depth look at this, Jonathan.
Thanks for providing such extensive explanations on this topic, you're a leader in this community! Love seeing Danny "Kickback" DeVito in the shop
Awesome sawblades info film. It's great to see how to cut blades in slowmotion. Thank Jonathan. Greetings from the land of the clompen🇱🇺🌷
Excellent presentation! Well presented, a few frames of slow motion conveys more information and knowledge than a half hour of verbal explanation. If other power tools presentations use this format and level of research into the subject at hand you may set a high bar for others to achieve and likely raise the level of an entire industry.
Welcome back! Love to have you back and cutting wood verrrrrry slowly
Terrific review. I am shopping for 10 inch sawblades and this review has been very helpful, thank you.
Great video on multiple fronts.
- lots of good info!
- great slow mo, besides being cool, it really helps understanding what our blades are doing.
I agree on the premium blade being a consideration. I have both a CMT crosscut (IIRC at your suggestion a while ago) and a Ridge Carbide rip blade. Love them.
Every cmt blade I have had has been amazing
The amount of dead pixels on that slow mo camera is incredible 🤣 fantastic video man!! 😉😉🍺
This video made me realize that I'm stupidly using a combination blade on my miter saw. I just ordered a nice CMT crosscut blade from your shop. Thanks!
Best you have done, thank you. New technology provides new information. Expecting you to review all the various saw brands is silly. We now have a good picture of what the blades do.
THIS is a quality TH-camr!
Great to see your face pop up in my feed! Glad you are feeling better.
We need a sawblade brand shootout like the sandpaper test! It would hard to do, but I know you could do an awesome job at it. Go all out and put the winner in your store 😝
I've been working with hardwood a lot more lately and this information makes a lot of sense now. Bought a big ass piece of purple heart, maple and cherry recently. Each 8-9' long, 3" thick, 8-10" wide. Do not recommend repetitive rip cuts on 2" purple heart using a delta 76-725 on a 15 amp circuit with an 80 tooth crosscut blade. Picked up a CMT 201.024.10 for this type of work and while I have not had a chance to use it due to being sick from the plague, I'm excited to see what it's all about. Hoping it speeds things up! 🙏
The manual says you should run that saw on a dedicated 20A circuit to put less stress on the motor. If you're cutting a lot of super hard wood like that, it's definitely worth upgrading the circuit to protect the saw.
@@derek_d having some 30A 220v circuits installed soon 💥
@@bucketofsteam9260 nice! You must have a T1 then? I have the T2 and it can't run 220 🙁
@@derek_d I do have the first edition
@@derek_d how do you like the second edition? Not sure if you've used the first for comparison.
Was wondering where you'd been, glad you're healthy now. Great video, always love learning this stuff and the slo-mo is crazy.
I use pine-sol to clean my blades, works fine. Great video, nice to see you back!
Information is unbelievable valuable, I cant express how much your knowledge is appreciated. Thank you.
Glad to see you are doing well, been awhile, me too, changing gears at this point, come with age I suppose.
I'll be checking out you shop, perhaps I could use a new blade or two for the table saw, the miter has gotten most of the new blades of late, but in changing gears, the table saw will need a new set, plus with be researching your collection of blafe and bit sharpening job shops!
Safety first, last, and in between, provides for happy fabrications!
PS. Well damn the bad luck, guess I have to make a 150 mile round trip you're sold out of the blades I like to use! ...maybe next time!
Love me CMT for my router bits and saw blades.
Great break down for each type of blade, thanks for all the info. I would love to see more of the slow mo videos, maybe something between the different types of blades or cutting edge.
I found a CMT dado stack at a furniture builder's closeout... unfortunately I think the teeth are shot on this so I'll be using that code for sure! My first experience with CMT was this dade, even though it's shot it cut alright so I bought a 60T from woodcraft a few months ago and have loved it. Happy you're carrying them and I can support you!
Cool footage. I also love CMT, Amazing quality. Great info in this video.
hope youre feeling good man! good to see you back
Awesome video! Now I need a director's cut version of this and the kick back slow motion footage.
Glad to see you back and healthy
Glad you are back!
great slow-motion video, thank you ! Glad you're back . . .
That was an excellent video with a ton of information.
It did seem too much too fast, probably due to editing and to cover the material.
Great show. I like the speed and clarity
Fantastic video, tremendous information to the point and no bs fillers Thanks man.
Glad to see ya feeling better (didn't know you were sick. Great video. Thanks
Miss seeing ya as much buddy hope you have a great year
How do the CMT blades stack up to the Forrest Woodworker II blades?
Fantastic video, Jonathan! Thanks a bunch! 😃
I really hope everything is fine with you now!
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Really informative... Thanks for this...
Another fantastic video! Something that could be beneficial is to talk about riving knives with different thickness blades as well?
Just a thought, keep up the great work 👍👍
Do I have a table saw? No... do I like this video? Yes. Carry one with the good work 😀
I have nothing to say really, but I appreciate your content, and wish to help with the yt-algorithms.
Great info as usual. I need to watch again and take notes. I've got an old (80's vintage) Craftsman 12" direct drive table saw and have always been torn about buying 10" blades for it, feeling like I'm cheating myself out of the extra radius. Thinking rationally about it, the only time it would make a noticable difference is if I'm trying to resaw or otherwise cut through extra thick materials, so I probably shouldn't feel bad about using the smaller blades. Do you have any thoughts about this? Is there anything else I might be missing out on by using blades smaller than the capacity of the same? Thanks for sharing!
Great video. I learned a lot! Thanks!
Good information, thank you for sharing with us! Enjoyed seeing the show motion shots showing how each blade acts. While watching, I looked over your shoulder and saw nick cage in a shop apron, when did that happen?
Could you make some video about Power tools used in woodworking please? What is important to have in workshop and why
Great content Jonathan, but I echo other comments about talking fast. You’re an amazing orator and teacher but maybe try to slow down about 10% or so. 👍👍
Great info - thanks for sharing knowledge.
Great video! For ripping ¾" plywood at a 45 degree angle, wanting a clean cut but avoid burning, what would you suggest? (I am getting burning with my 40 tooth ATB blade from Ridge Carbide)
Now do the same video with bandsaw blades- different sets, tpi, width, tensions, etc. That's one episode. Then do the same with jigsaw blades. Another episode. Finally do the same with scroll saw blades. Another episode. You already understand pictures (high speed video) are worth a thousand words....
I agree. Those bandsaw blades are really hit or miss.
I’ve actually started using 7-1/4” blades on my table saw full time, until I need to make a full depth cut. But 99% of the time I’m cutting 1-1/2” or less thick material and the 7-1/4” are cheaper, thinner, easier on my saw, and quieter. And cheaper 😁
Great video!!! Thank you!!
Ordered the CMT 80T blade based on this, excited to try it out
Great content!
Really interesting video, good to see the slow motion of the various blades. Also good to see that we both use the same CMT blades, I too have found them to be extremely well made! Are these also available as Infinity in the states? Some of their cutters have the same part numbers as the CMT ones?
CMT made their blades a couple years ago but have since stopped. They have old pictures on their site.
fantastic video! thank you for the guide.
Jonathan... Great content, excellent teaching skills. I was wondering if you could suggest an overall / all around CMT ripping blade for my 2hp DeWalt contractor table saw (DWS7491) , and an overall / all around cross cut CMT blade for my 12" DeWalt miter saw? Just want to start my collection and need your help. Thank you! Keep up the good work.
What would be the best blade choice for acacia butcher block? How do we know if we should go crosscut or rip if the butcher block is a mishmash of different grains, directions, etc.? Specifically I am thinking about a traditional crosscut to shorten the length. Thanks
Great info and slo mo video Jonathan but consider slowing down the explanations a bit ;) I had to go back and forward multiple times to ingest all your excellent info.
Great information, lots of details and love the slo-mo stuff. But this one was like drinking water from a fire hydrant, dude lay off the caffeine, it's ok to breathe. 🤣✌Thanks!!
Great footage. Thank you for the effort and quality Johnathan. With respect to the cleaning of blades. Folks, simple green and sooo many other things are fine for your blades. I’m sure the blade companies would love to sell you their magical blade cleaner, hell it probably is simple green. It’s not going to remove coatings. Just need to deploy a little common sense, I don’t think the coating that’s made to stand up to being scraped through hard woods at 4000rpm for years is going to wash away from a cleaner that won’t even harm your grass. Just my unscientific opinion. Keep up the good work! Respectfully
Direct from simple green that it can damage coatings. sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?149002-Response-from-Simple-Green-about-Cleaning-Saw-Blades
Thanks for your kind words my friend. You can trust I do extensive research for these videos. I stopped using simple green as soon as I saw that. The CMT stuff we carry seems to work better and has even won an independent test by wood magazine. It's really good which is why I carry it.
@@katzmosestools all good info, thank you. I can’t be the only one who hears their grandfather giggle a bit when we hear some of the marketing. I’m just a home gamer woodworker. The day I get a couple grand for a piece is the day start doing a deeper dive on cleaner. Thanks for the support you guys give to the community. I’ll def buy some CMT blades from you. Be well.
@@katzmosestools I just bought some cleaner from the site for losing the 2022 great blade cleaner debate.
@@jadam-2024 hahaha fair
Great stuff
What’s the difference between 12t and 24t in use for a dado? Wish you had covered this in the video.
How would you compare festool blades to CMT? Wondering which you get to add to my mitre saw.
High Jonathan, this is Raymond. Wanted to know when you will have Precision dodo set 24 teat, in-stock I need to buy one. Let me know I appreciate it.
Awesome video thanks.
Thank you
Not a comment but a table saw question. I have a Grizzly cabinet saw with a right tilting blade. Is it safe to cut a 60 degree angle with the fence on the right side of the blade.
Great information !!
I currently have the 8 1/4in dewalt table saw. Could you recommend where I can get some decent 8 1/4in table saw blades. Eventually I will upgrade to the 10'' table saw. Thanks
Wow! I agree with the others, that slow motion footage is amazing and very helpful in understanding how the various teeth do their work. That was also a lot of information delivered rapidly…may I humbly suggest a summary chart(s) that could be screen shot for reference appearing at the end of the video? Thank you.
I put a summary in the pinned comment but it certainly would've been good to add to the video
I'm glad you're doing well, I was kind of bummed I haven't had any push notifications for you lately. Now I'm going through some sickness is good to have quality videos to watch. Keep em coming.
Great tutorial! Questions on the use of thin kerf blades...
Do you find it a benefit to use (a) blade stabilizer(s) with them to reduce possible wobble? Are they worth the expense?
Also... any benefit to placing a spacer/shim between the thin kerf blade and saw arbor, so that the blade to fence distance remains the same as that for a full kerf? I assume switching between thin and full causes the saw fence scale to be thrown off by the difference between the blades (meaning you may have to re-adjust the fence scale each time because the cut distance changes).
Just looking for help before I investigate further. Tx!
I have never found a stabilizer to make a noticeable difference. It is way thicker that the 1/32 difference between a full and thin and cause you to lose a lot.of cutting capacity. You DON'T want to put it between the motor and the blade. The correct side is the nut side. Will cause all sorts of problems with the riving knife and the drive shaft.
@@katzmosestools Appreciate the fast reply! Understood... on the stabilizer use. What about shimming the thin kerf blade to make the right side of the blade align with a full kerf (again, so the blade to fence cut distance does not change)? My old Craftsman does not have a riving knife and I use a MicroJig MJ Splitter (one setup for thin, one for full kerf). Tx again!
@@csimet it doesn't change to the left side of the blade but changes by 1/32 between the fence and the blade.