My Race Car Is Rust
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 6 ก.ค. 2024
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"Is that turbo lag?" "No, it's just my arduino throttle controller!"
lol
The key step is to get the hw working and Matt has proven that now. I'm sure arguino code with a massively faster response (even ballistics) an be done easily by any sw guys out there
I have a hard time imagining how the response wouldnt just be fast as heck unless he has like serial prints on every loop or something.
Its literally a read input give output sort of thing where even the slowest ancient uno should be able to do that thousands of times per second.
The throttle controllers I’ve used in OEM are feedback position controllers. Your foot requests an angle which creates “position error” in the system and a PID (or similar) feedback loop moves the throttle to correct this error. The output to move the throttle is not the same as the output to hold it still, and even holding it still in different positions can require different outputs. Then there’s signal validation from multiple inputs as you should have at least 2 pedal and 2 throttle position sensors, hopefully with one with an increasing signal and another with a decreasing signal. Some systems also have a plausibility checker, independent of the throttle controller, that oversees everything to make sure that everything is running properly. Once set up properly, modern electronic throttle systems can move faster than cable as they don’t solely rely on a slow moving person to operate.
@@jzab "modern electronic throttle systems can move faster than cable as they don’t solely rely on a slow moving person to operate"
You fail to grasp how quickly I can stomp on the throttle when the light turns from green to yellow
I am not a mechanic, but sometimes I am smarter than other times. When I feel smart, I watch this channel.
Iam a mechanic, when i watch matt i feel dumb
i definitely feel way smarter than i am when i watch matt
If you're gonna DIY the throttle control I'd make sure to have some sort of kill switch for it too!
"Die by wire" has a lot more weight to it when instead of the usual army of engineers and lawyers trying to prevent that from happening, you have... Matt.
He probably already has one somewhere, but I had the same initial reaction as you.
I'm not sure if they require it at Bonneville, but kill switches both inside and outside (for track Marshals in emergencies) the car are required for a lot of motorsports.
Even better, disable throttle when the brake is depressed. All modern cars do this as far as I know, if the throttle input and brake input are high, it assumes it’s a runaway.
@@bigiron4018 any software solution relies on the arduino, and in my experience they are not the most reliable piece of hardware in the world ....
They're pretty good, but not bulletproof, I had one that froze and needed rebooting once while driving, it was only used as a speedometer and never had any other issue since then but I wouldn't trust it with my life.
The salt might also make it worse.
A kill switch would ensure he still has a way to kill the engine in case the electronic part of the throttle fails :)
You're right about 3D printing -- it can be a minefield of problems unless you have good control of the process and materials. Polycarbonate is good, but for high strength, high impact nylon is best IMHO. You can smash nylon with a hammer and it won't break, just like the car bouncing up and down on the pucks as you drive down the road. Send me your files and I'll print them for you, I've been through the minefiled already.
Upvote this man so Matt get's to read his offer
If impact resistance is the highest priority, then max hardness TPU is the go-to material. Taulman PCTPE and NinjaFlex Armadillo are the easiest to find. 1/2-1/4 as stiff as nylon but with >50% elastic deformation. It's amazing stuff and easy to print.
I dont know what type of printer Matt is using, but IMO I would stay away from high temperature materials PC/PEI without enclosed/heated chamber (in my tests the bonding strength of layers is compromised). Hard TPU or nylon would be my choice for high reliability, becouse it seems to be easy to get good results. i would use lighter colors instead of black to keep temperature of the parts lower, especially usefull in heavy sun exposure.
@@GaweNowakowski Looking at the one in this video he's using an X1 Carbon so he should be able to print in pretty much anything that's not too exotic.
You can smash normal PLA with a hammer too if you print your thing correctly enough.
I am Australian. Lots of people who use their 4x4 on the beach will use a lawn sprinkler under their vehicle over night to wash out the sand and salt.
He literally did that for the RV
i wonder if running a boiler and pushing steam through the sprinkler can achieve the same thing while reducing the amount of water used
@@d3str0i3rpretty sure hot steam would make it rust faster. When they used to rust blue gun barrels, they’d steam them for a certain amount of time to help it really get blue
The subtly tragic way Matt said "[...] I'm just gonna go home" at 2:00 actually made my tear up just a tiny bit. Too relatable.
I'm glad I'm not alone in this lmao
He sounds like he was tearing up a bit for real while saying this
Welcome to wrenching in the midwest where not fixing oil leaks is cheaper than sandblasting your frame every couple of years
Afik the trick tube frame airplanes use to prevent internal corrosion is the partially fill the tubes with Linseed Oil, tumble it about, drain the extra, and let it turn to varnish.
Plus also if you have any open ports for through bolts, weld a sleeve there instead of leaving it open. If you do both, you're setting yourself up for success.
just in case no one mentions it, i really appreciate you owning your fups!
I love that. It's one of the facts that distinguish this channel
@@Harry_Gersack it's not just about accuracy, i really enjoy and relate to the emotional rollercoaster!
@@sachiperez especially when delivered in his signature deadpan style. 🤣
He is kind enough to make the mistakes so we can learn from it. Or laugh at it. Or both.
most of them, are easily avoidable, matts problem is that he ALWAYS tries to take shortcuts, that never work.
Oh, that off-road viper tease at the end, though!
That's the motorcycle-engined racecar, though
@@kingnull2697the motorcycle engined racecar with "Viper RT/10" embossed in the side? ...though
@@kingnull2697 just say you didn't watch the video all the way through lol
Hi Matt, you can use low-viscosity cyanoacrylate (superglue) on 3D filament prints to make them MUCH stronger. You coat the whole thing in glue, let it flow into all the gaps between layers and then spray with activator. It's self-leveling but, if there are any bumps of glue, easily sandable. Particularly with polycarb filament you should expect an end result that is actually hard to damage, even intentionally.
With what type of materials does that work?
....or do a simple silicon mold with a smooth on kit and cast them out of resin like all these 'makers' should be doing instead of running off dozens of the same part or iterating over the design when the original would do if they would just cast it out of an appropriate hardness urethane.... As a fabricator (we're cooler than makers, fight me) I really dont understand the aversion to doing it the right way.... Whoever told the scene 'it makes ready to go parts' and got them chasing perfection with bog standard steppers with no feed back was lying to them. Like musk level lies.... Seriously kiddies, learn to do it right and stop wasting energy and creating more plastic trash for the landfill!
@@Johnny_OSG It definitely works with PLA and ABS. It's always worth checking with a test, but I haven't found a plastic except poly-ethylene that CA glue won't stick.
@@zombieregime There's a fascinating process for turning plastic waste into high-quality graphene, by pyrolysis and then joule-heating it, that I'm working towards replicating, but you're dead right about casting. You even use a 'lost PLA' process to cast metal parts from prints.
@@gerryjamesedwards1227 that's interesting. I'd watch a youtube video about your progress.
CRC Marine Grade Corrosion Inhibitor is your friend. It’s a cosmoline coating. Next time it’s stripped down, assemble the rolling chassis and give the entire thing a coat or two with everything torqued down. I live in the rust belt and coat all my vehicles with it. Works great, lasts several years, resistant to spray, and doesn’t drip like Woolwax/Fluid Film. Would be perfect for your use case.
ive coated entire engine bays of yaughts with that stuff ... it gets to sit on the top shelf next to my DeepCreep ...lol
This would also be an optimum use of WD-40. It's designed as rust preventer and slowly turns into varnish, it just happens to be a decent spray lubricant.
WD-40 is only good for one thing.
For every other thing, including corrosion protection on expensive vehicles parts, there is always a grossly-superior product available.
Blaster Surface Shield!
@@blargggggWD 40 smells good, good for making a new shop smell correct.
FYI. If you don't have tamper-proof Torx fasteners, don't buy tamper-proof Torx wrenches. I twisted the splines on every bit in my kit using them on fasteners that weren't tamper-proof. They were too weak and twisted every time.
If you don't need them, don't use them. I tried to be cheap and buy one set for both kinds of fasteners and it didn't work out. I had to buy 2 more sets after destroying the first. Which is what I should have done in the 1st place.
How much did you spend, I’ve never had this issue
A lot of times the bits are just soft metal to avoid trashing the bolt heads. I'd rather replace a $1 bit than grind and drill stripped fasteners.
For bolts that are tight, ( but not heavily rusted into place ) which use internal Torx , reduced size allen / phillips , hit the head of the bolt using a flat nose punch. This will compress the metal under the head reducing tension. This also works with drain plugs that use a copper crush washer. Sometimes plating will cold weld bolts to the part, hitting the head from the side can help as well.
Even if you *do* have tamper-proof Torx fasteners, you don’t need tamper-proof Torx tools; just pop the little pip out of the fastener with a small punch and bingo - tamperable fasteners!
Someone borrowed my torx set and despite my telling them not to, they used some of the security bits improperly, returned the set with twisted bits.
For flushing your cooling system, citric acid should dissolve anything found in normal hose water and won't touch either metal or rubber/plastic parts. I bought some (food grade, no less) a few years ago, and it's gotten to the "when you have a hamm… citric acid, every cleaning problem is a citric acid problem" stage. (OK, citric acid or isopropyl alcohol.)
If you get food grade you can also use it (sparingly) to spice up salads, cabbage, and/or cookies :D
Citric acid and isopropyl alcohol gang!
Anytime you see vinegar recommended for cleaning, swap it for citric acid and your nose will thank you. Great on rust too.
Citric acid I get in ~kilo containers from the "orient" food stores, way cheaper than the bulk plumber bags I could find around here.
Isopropyl ain't cheap around here
(I get it from a retail electroncis chain at almost $30 per L, probably cheaper in bulk if you've got connections)
But it really is the shit, dissolves most gunk, safe on most plastics, and leaves no trace behind.
Acetone or brake cleaner for the really tough crud, but plastics beware.
Good tip! Iron citrates drop right back into solution. Calcium citrate is more sparingly soluble, so a little splash of hydrochloric acid to lower the pH to 6 or so will make extremely soluble calcium chloride. Then you can flush out the crud while etching maybe 0.001mm of aluminum from the interior of the engine. Discretion is the better part of valor with that stuff.
Salt water, on the other hand, will dissolve anything metal and won't touch the mineral deposits.
"I just want a thing that makes other things reliably prefferably."
My feelings exactly.
we use a variety of products in aviation to fight off corrosion, but the products that come straight to mind to help with your bolts are a PPG product called CA-1000 and Univair's Black Bear ii
For my motorcycle trips I do the same thing on the tools...when I buy a used bike I mostly disassmble it to inspect and repair anything that needs it. I keep track of all tools used and make a mini, but bespoke, kit for that bike.
For our race cars (since we have 5 current and two former) if ANYTHING is non-standard to what we already carry that tool gets ziptie to the cage of that car because the words used by yours truly if the 35mm hub nut socket is "back in the garage" when we need to do a Saturday night front hub swap would make a drill sargent blush.
I remember when you went to Bonneville, thinking “that looks sketchy as hell and it’s going to get salt water everywhere”. But I respect your decision to “just do it”. I’m a fan of the channel, keep up the good work. Honestly some of my fav videos are the ones where you fix like a dozen things on the 4Runner and discover a dozen more problems.
When I worked for Audi, car and driver got a bunch of press cars and took them to the salt flats. all were brand new and every single one was completely ruined and looked 20 years old after they returned them.
Going from previous arts and crafts like your lamp crankshaft I have an idea. By installing a light bulb socket, you can sell it as a super fast salt lamp and proceed to ignore cleaning it.
now all you cali people know how us north east people feel working on cars that deal with winter salt. lol
Worked with a Bonniville racer. I do remember cleaning up was just as time consuming as preparing for speed week. And he always said dry lake racing was much worse than the salt. He and his late brother ran lakesters , roadster and a streamliner. 360 and 362. Markley brothers.
If future Matt with the homemade throttle controller, (that's now past Matt) wants a sorted out unit..... Check any of the millions of GM drive by wire TAC modules.
They're free standing units usually located next to the brake booster so they're waterproof (or at least ''waterproof''), and easily replaceable and cheap to have a spare.
The fuel pedal is sorted out tech as well. Might be easy to use that as a sending unit too.
Making a tool set that way is a great concept. I am moving my project CJ7 to another garage slowly and I am only going to move tools I need. If I suddenly need another tool I will go get it. After a few months any tool left behind will not be included in the Jeep's standard toolset. Thanks for the idea!
For a long time Ive wanted to make tool kits for cars where it contained every socket and wrench needed to work on it in a kit that fit neatly into the trunk, with every bulb and fuse the car had too. Customized to each car. Just had no idea where to start with something like that and other more pressing projects keep distracting me.....
Yeah, a coat of fluid film before heading to the flats and after every rinse. It’s how we keep Toyotas on the road in the Midwest 😂
It's really thick though. (And messy, I use it myself in WI)I wonder if a wd40 bath from a fogger can would be enough for a run or two.
@@ummduhgmail It might be a little risky coating a race car with a flammable product.
I live in Salt Lake City, and I had no idea driving around on the salt flats could be*that* bad! 😱 My respect for the amount of work that racers out there have to put into their rigs just shot up sky high!
"Bob's your uncle?" I have three uncles, none of them are named Robert.
I love how you made your whole car a sacrificial anodes to prevent you being rusty.... Smart
"Seems like I could make this happen for like 50 bucks." Soooo the actual cost will be 200 bucks?
I love watching your progress on your land speed car. Good luck with your project, and I can't wait to see a video of this car at Speed Week!
I can recommend one thing.
For your electrics and everything else.
Get yourself some circuit board conformal coating spray.
Spray it over junctions joins and anything else. Even non electrics.
in Michigan so much salt is put on the roads every winter that it does this to the cars. Sometimes it feels like auto manufacturers push for it on purpose to sell more cars
From my experience with salty roads the best way for protection is 2K epoxy primer, spraypaint usually doesnt last very long
Somehow this is the first time I would call Matt a noob from another universe. Oh hail all nerds here! I welcome you to scandinavia for a wintermoth my friend. That amount of salt is just a dailey doze my cars gets over here in Norway....yes, I do a lot of pressurewashing and slobby cleaning every year. Take care my californian friend ;)
As a northern auto mechanic, this video is more my speed. Unfortunately, this level of deep corrosion is very typical for any vehicle that's 8-10 years or older in my area. I highly recommend zinc flake coated fasteners if you are able to source them in a viable way. Speaking from experience, Geomet type coated fasteners are much, much more resistant to salt corrosion than bright or yellow zinc. The only thing better is a 300 series stainless (obviously except for more exotic materials), but as I'm sure you area aware there are other drawbacks to stainless fasteners to consider.
Either that or stainless fasteners (which get used on bridges and such and have to be regularly replaced anyway due to saltwater corrosion). Ideally you'd use something that doesn't corrode when it comes into contact with salt but I don't think you want the worlds weakest fasteners on a sketchy land speed car or something that has next to no tensile strength and will crumble if a suspension arm bends an attometer too much.
Oh, and for the record a lot of languages call stainless steel rust-free steel if you direct-translate the term. I don't know how that happened since you'd know just how not rust-free stainless is in the longer-but-not-really-long term.
Fluid film, and other oil/wax undercoatings work great for parts that can’t be properly painted. I honestly hose the underside of my cars with it and it works great for winter corrosion.
7:12 It’s always nice when the rules align with your personal interests. 😁
I built ships for a living, use silicone to encapsulate your bolts after install covering the head and nut end and you won't get the salt and moisture in there. Of course getting the silicone off to work on the system can be a challenge but you can't have everything. FYI painting them works also it's just not any better to clean off and silicone can be used to fill voids to shed water instead of letting it pool there.
I used to have a small RV rental business, the two places forbidden for rental destinations were burning man and the salt flats for reasons partially shown in this video.
I thought you were more positive than this Matt, rust can be viewed as a "lightening" agent, each season your car gets lighter, therefore faster. Best of all it gives you more time for your other projects with zero effort!
CLR is a great solution to clean out mineral deposits, but it also harms metal, which could be destructive if you didn't anodize the inside aluminum.
That looks like a very slow throttle actuator response!
your salt flat experience isnt too far off what living in the rust belt is like. fluid film is your friend.
Hey matt.... crc salt & corrosion terminator! Just so you know it works like a charm. Have used it in jetskis and boats. Have also washed a few vehicle frames off after the winter with it. Get the chunks off and spray the whole thing down....
I understand there is a water based solution heavy machine shops use on shot blasted items ( think excavators ) after blasting but before painting that stops corrosion.
Did a salt spray test for a 304SS item for automotive use, after a week of testing I opened the test container and.... the only thing left were the plastic parts and the stainless steel item. Thankfully the pump was plastic and survived. All other items in the container had disappeared, steel hanger, brass nozzle, mild steel base test unit all dissolved. Thus, unit passed the salt spray test.
That would be an interesting time lapse!
Dang what a great video, this covers almost every corrosion concern I had my recumbent motorcycle project. Tons of great advice here.
I can't remember if you've covered this, but make sure the side thrust washers on your swingarm are greasable. This will greatly aid in keeping the salt out and obviously keeping things greasy is neat
I immediately thought SP / Canada and then when you not only made the joke but the "I am not ya friend" helmet bit I said to myself "this is just another reason why I watch this show each week".
Fwiw, after taking 4wd to beach/islands, simply park on front lawn and put a lawn sprinkler underneath for several hours. Move sprinkler regularly. Gets rid of most salt and sand, your front lawn gets a decent watering, and still meets the laziness level required for a superfastmatt activity.
My worst nightmare is my car becoming unsalvageable. I've pulled it back from the brink of the wreckers twice already, I ain't giving up, but this gave me anxiety.
Alfa owner that feels your pain 😅
Obscure Buick guy here, and same. I'm on restoration #3 with my son right now.
I daily a 92 riviera in Maine. Lol
Same here with my MINI, she’s had significantly more money spent on her than she deserves, I could’ve bought and modified a cooper S for the money I’ve spent, but that wouldn’t be her. She’ll be getting a Cooper S engine eventually but the current engine just will not die, it leaks like a sieve and rattles like a bag of rocks but it just keeps going
@thomaswatson5875 I'm also doing an r53 that was my daily until an angry s** offender parolee decided he didn't like that I held him accountable for his actions so he put something, possibly sand, in the oil and wiped out the oil cooler and camshaft. Yipee motor rebuild time, thankfully the bearings are all still good.
It's cool seeing you not give up when faced with major problems, keep it going Matt I wanna see you go super fast
My boss is a saltwater fisherman and has me rebuild and maintain his reels.
A fresh water rinse works but I use Wheel cleaner. The kind for aftermarket wheels to protect from road salt.
I usually don't subscribe to channels that do everything half assed, but, this one's special.
I got to ask for names of those that don't half-ass stuff. I need to check them out 😊
That Steel It does not make chemical sense .
A zinc spray will at least provide localised sacrificial anodic protection. Stainless steel particles can't.
CRC make a range of zinc loaded anti-corrosion spray paints ,including one with stainless steel particles.
The one with stainless steel particles does not perform as well as the pure zinc one does , it just looks better.
That's in theory, in practice it seemed to hold up just fine
@@reinbeers5322 Like any other non-zinc paint - just more expensive
I think he did it because he is likely to make modifications along the way, and Steel It is weld-through.
It's worse than that. The stainless particles are electrically isolated by the paint or else they would accelerate corrosion. Stainless is more noble than carbon steel. If you put stainless in electrical contact with carbon steel, the carbon steel becomes the sacrificial anode. That Steel-It product is a gimmick. The paint coating system itself is doing the heavy lifting here.
This is why I make sure my car has a steady engine oil leak to have a nice constant oil coating all round
Current Matt should build Future Matt a car wash so the car can be pushed into it and cleaned. Bunch of high presssure nozzles and lots of flow.
These parts look about the same as what a car looks after 10 years of salted winter roads. Good test.
Those rust deposits on your drive are actually excess mass that you've cleverly removed from the car. This is simply a cost-effective way of following Colin Chapman's mantra about adding lightness!
This is 6 months of the year where I live. Nothing is safe. You have to film everything in oil and even that is only a half measure.
"My racecar is rust."
Mine too, buddy, mine too.
I use a product called Salt Terminator that is popular with the boat guys and people up north who want to save their cars from road salt. Spray it on and it's supposed to neutralize the salt. Seems to work fairly well.
Patreon for the win … I’m just here for the algorithm.
A friend went to the salt flats with a newly built street rod a few years ago. I bought aerosol fluid film and applied it to the complete underside and into any and all crevices. He told me everyone asked him what was on the vehicle and stated that next trip they were going to do the same. This was 7 years ago and has never had any rust issues with it.
What is aerosol fluid film mate?
@@sexyfacenation fluid film is an American lanolin based rustproofing. Invented at least reinvented during WWII. It was used along the US coast to keep all the big guns from rusting from the salt air along the coasts. It's a rusrproofing that up in Maine where we use salt or liquid calcium chloride to melt snow and ice on our roads. This product is a sprayed onto the exposed sheet metal under the vehicles to keep them from rusting. It can be purchased in a rattle can to apply on the exposed surfaces as well.
Up here in Southern Ontario (and most places where salt is applied to the roads in the winter time) we take our car to a shop and get the frame/body/crevices treat with a corrosion inhibiting product. My personal favourite is fluid film, you can use a fluid spraying gun with a reservoir, hook it up to your air hose and go to town. It works quite well and you can apply to pretty much any surface because it's lanolin. You can definitely watch a few videos on this subject. A good idea also is to completely seal off all structures which are hollow. Any kind of hole will allow water to enter unless plugged with a rubber/plastic end cap. That eastwood stuff you used it good stuff too. I haven't personally used to on my own cars but I've seen it done with good success. Compared to fluid film, I have no idea how robust it is, but fluid film seems to resist some of the most severe winters we have up here.
After racing, swing by a place that does steam pressure washing for commercial trucks in Vegas and have them do bumper to bumper everything.
Spray the car with Fluid Film before you go next time, your subjecting the car to a northeastern winter every time you go to Bonneville and anyone in the Northeast that doesn't want a rust bucket uses Fluid film or something similar annually.
You need an oil leak! My truck covered in oil survived a couple trips to the salt flats about 20 years ago with virtually no rust anywhere.
Time 225 king pins locking up. This will cause instability because anytime you need to make a slight steering correction, you must apply more force to overcome starting friction, this results in an overshoot and the need to input a steering correction in the opposite direction and the same overshoot.
When I was a mechanic on the east coast where every winter day is a salt spray test, we would spray used motor oil everywhere under the trucks with a cheap sand blaster gun. It was the only thing that worked, and would be 100% rust proof if done once a year. Any existing rust or dirt helped the oil stick even better, so you didn't have to do any prep other than hosing off first. The various coatings didn't work at all, and sometimes made frames more rust prone, since it would trap water that found it's way in. On something nicer than an old plow truck, wd-40 might be a good alternative. Of course, you'd want to make sure that trapped oil wouldn't make its way out onto the tires at high speed. At the very least, I'd coat the RV in it.
it might be a little risky coating a race car with any flammable liquids.
Just an idea, how about adding a 55 gallon drum or two to the trailer and getting one of those battery operated pressure washer. Wash the car while out on the salt flats or just as you come off. Always found that I would rather do stuff like that at the track rather than when I get home. "I'll do it tomorrow" means it'll be in a week or three
This was slightly more entertaining than your other videos for me. I do not know why, but I really liked it. I look forward to the next one.
I've been dealing a lot with DBW on a MS3 for the last months, project started as a stand alone PID controller that sampled the PWM of the idle output, pedal position sensor and reported to the ms3 thru an adc a fake TPS, worked good but had a few issues with hiding the idle movement from the TPS as in the end I just reported the pedal position and let the MAP do its job at idle anyway. I just finished yesterday the V2 that runs thru CANBUS, for the love of god USE THE CANBUS, the MS3 integration is great and it will idle and change state looking at the pedal not the TPS position (I was afraid it wouldnt go in idle as the TPS now becomes the butterflys position and if you are using the DBW idle aswell it the TPS will idle like at 2-5%). Easy peasy, address 256 is the MS3 "input" 4 byte long, first 2 bytes is throttle position, last 2 bytes is pedal position (might be reversed, going by memory) then address 260 is 4 bytes aswell iirc but only the first 2 bytes are the target throttle position (the one the PID loop control needs to place the butterflys at). All is running on a ESP32 and i've added a few commands thru serial bluetooth to set PID, Deadband and Pedal/Throttle limits. All of those parameters need to be set in the controller, I hoped I could set them in the MS3 software like the canbus number goes from 0 to 4095 but clip it at 500-3200 but nope, no big deal tho. Also an other thing to keep in mind is to use BOTH potentiometers in the TPS and Pedal, I used just one of both and I fully understand the safety concerns, i've added protection against potentiometers issues like full scale readings (means that one of the wires probably detached or the wiper broke) but doenst protect against random readings that could make the throttle move in all sort of directions. My personal opinion is that if any of this happens dump the clutch and turn the key, I'm running a 1.3L Suzuki samurai engine with YZF R6 Thottle bodies, lots of noise not power (I wont be accelerating at mach Jesus even in WOT). If you want to take a look at the code or have any kind of questions feel free to text? me :)
pre-wsh the car with bodyshop "spray mask"
its basically a soap...the salt will sit on top...but when you wash... the soap is already there underneath and in the nooks and crannies before the salt can get in.....just cake it on
I made my trailer using 50X50 equal angle. There are no cavities so nowhere for moisture and salt to hide. The completed frame was hot dip galvanized. 23 years later there has only ever been one spot of rust. Literally a spot, like a point. Not bad considering it lives outside.
This is why I spray my bikes down with wd40 after an off road trip. I’m sure it’s not as bad as salt flats but I do end up with muddy sand in everything. When I get back I’m beat and will put off messing with cleaning for days sometimes. But I blast it down in wd40 everywhere. I buy it by the gallon and use a spray bottle. Not only will it stop rust but it also loosens all the dirt and grim. So when I do power wash it everything just falls off with zero effort. Then for good measure I mist a bit more wd40 when I’m done. I know it sounds reckless and dumb but the results are amazing.
The best rust preventative I’ve ever used is ACF-50. I have a fogging system to git into airplane structures. It’s fantastic.
Hey Matt. You will never see this comment but I'm going to write it anyway. Focus heavily on sealing around the wheels and tires. A body will help, paint will help, grease will help, but at the end of the day the best thing you can do is prevent the salt from even getting onto the car as much as possible right at the point of origin.
Great video. As someone who lives about 5km's from the ocean across some plains, the real problem is metal now isn't as good a quaility as it once was my 100 year old compressor that sits in rain has like no rust my one that's about 10 years old rusts constantly an same goes for vehicles...its why so much metal now is treated or you are advised to treat it with zinc etc (Love to tell people to sand blast new an old metal an put it outside an watch how quick it changes)
The best way to clean salt off is the same you you got it on. Drive through wet streets preferably with some standing water. I do this the first rainstorm every spring. All the salt in all of the pockets it gets trapped in are gone. Pressure washing doesn't do this but simply driving in rain does.
That seems a little more than impractical in this case. Also, he's in so-cal iirc.
Nah, won't work, my car lost chunks of it in summer, when most of the salt are in winter
Just use the pressure washer
I've had grand success in marine environment, preventing corrosion between stainless and aluminum with tef gel (do not eat). Also waterproof grease on bronze thrust bushings to keep out salt water. When we ice raced in Maine (brackish) we used a fresh coat of wd40 to keep the ignition working. Great vids. Thanks.
@Matt 13:00 Speaking from experience, I believe that the engine performance can be improved by tidying-up the aerodynamics at the throttle plate. For example, those two screw heads that hold the plate to the shaft. Make sure they're tight (Locktite'd), grind the heads flush to the shaft, carefully stake the remains in place with a center punch (centerpunch the threaded join so that it can never rotate again, with the shaft well supported obviously), and then polish everything smooth. Obviously the airflow at the throttle plate is relatively extreme, so tidying up the airflow at that point seems to make an obvious improvement to the engine's performance. You might want to have a spare throttle assembly on hand in case something goes wrong.
or just encase the whole thing in a slick fiberglass body
I did donuts in my truck on the salt flats. It was very clear that it was a problem when 10 pound chunks of salt started falling off every day
Don't do stupid shit. The salt flats don't need idiots like you destroying them.
I lost it at "I'm not your friend, buddy" 😆 - Excellent as ever, Matt; algorithm hailed... 👍
12:00 I'm sure you'll get lots of suggestions regarding 3d printing, but to add mine to the list: Don't use pure white or pure black PLA (and ABS/ASA, too), they're god awful for strength, clog much more frequently, more poorly bond each layer, and have adhesion issues on nearly all bed types, and the rolls get brittle and begin to crack if left in humid open air.
Go with the grey PLA+ options instead.
@ your king pins: we, here in Wisconsin, call it that special "brown grease". Another anti- rust option I've used a lot on plow trucks is an aerosol wax-based open gear and chain lube called velo-plex. Nasty stuff until hardened and lasts through several rounds of pressure washing.
We have the exact same opinion about 3D printers. Built a couple 10 years ago and it was just constant tinkering to get mildly useful parts.
I just bought another one as well and so far it doesn’t look that much more reliable than they were 10 years ago.
For work we pay others to 3D print with MJF. That’s a $200k machine though. Our formlabs prints are crappy in comparison, and those are a $5k machine.
Just a suggestion. Try KBS Rustseal. I use it on frames of cars I restore. Nothing gets through it. You have to grind it off to do any welding after the fact. Way cheaper than your spray paint.
Fluid film does wonders as a prep Matt! I'm running dbw on a speeduino ECU for my Mazda, so far, long as the sweep is calibrated and it has power, no reliability or weird issues.
Who knew a video about salt corrosion could be so interesting…? And the Like and subscribe “ ending was beautiful
We learned that lesson the hard way too! That's why we didn't unload our bikes last year. Hopefully the weather will be kind this next year!
Great Video as always and good choice on the 3d Printer, especially with the requirements you described
Which printer is that? I have similarly avoided getting one because I just want parts, not a printing hobby.
@@davidbell-yt It's the Bambulab X1C if I'm not mistaken. Any of their other printers are also really good and can make most 3d Printing jobs a breeze. Bambu is on top of their game when it comes to making printers reliable and easy to use. They are like Apple of the printer world, quite limited in upgrades and customizability but has 99,9% of features a user could want. The difference to apple is the fact that they sell you replacement parts for cheap and encourage home repairs that will eventually happen as with any printer (a lot better though than most of the competitors)
Should consider spraying things down with ACF-50 before going to the salt flats, washes off with a good degreaser
Thanks for sharing the update. Love the videos.
8:13 had me rolling. been there too many times LOL "yayyy"
The Steel-It paint on the frame likes a low grit sand first. I sanded my rollcage with 80 grit and did a couple of coats. I pretty much stand or walk on my cage every time I get in or out and you can't tell.
what about having flush-out bungs at opposing ends of frame members so you can run water through to get some of the salt out and then air to get the moisture out? bonus points if you then flush it with undercoating or something else to prevent rust on the insides.
Hey Matt when using abrasive (eg carbon/nylon/ etc) make sure that the entire work path of the filament (not just the nozzle) is rated for that level of abrasion. CF and nylon are generally considered to be a harder material to work with comparted to the normal PLA but worth the extra hassle if you need that level of resistance. Zach Freidman has a good series on trying basically every type of filament and you might like to check that on out
I notice there are such a bundle of contrivances for numerous purposes aside from being as light as possible to assist a higher top speed at a lower energy output. Bearings are heavy and brass or bronze (better) bushes are both lighter, durable and carry a heavy load longer. One thing that does good to be heavy is coats of paint. Another idea is the wax we spray on our car in these advanced times to make them shine. Spray on rinse off. Probably doesn't add much weight either? I attempt in a small way to think of things that might help as the salt is a hobby for wealthy & one car per season does not seem to be within your budget? Those cables for the throttle are fairly hefty . Fixed. Good video Matt, thanks!!
Weight is not an obstacle on land speed vehicles as long as there is sufficient room to accelerate. Many wheel-driven streamliners accelerate fairly slowly.
The insides of all those tubes will corrode... moisture/salt water will get into all the bolt holes. Good idea to also mist the insides of tubes with ACF50, or LPS. They will last longer.
there is a coating product called conformat as I recall, military uses it to preserve machinery in hell holes.