Such a gorgeous book - each shed is unique and inspiring, and I love all the tiny details Kotite features to help readers imagine how to create their own She Sheds th-cam.com/users/postUgkxe9yi0sulKgsp0VJJCIrLWWkvVqcU7LFR . The feature on Dinah's Rustic Retreat is like something from a fairy tale. It's really inspiring to see how creative all these ordinary people are in making beautiful and useful spaces on a modest scale.
Please keep posting on Passive Houses, and sharing all the latest and greatest on this. If more are built, the cheaper they will become. Allowing more people to be able to afford a comfortable, low energy demanding house. A win for people and the environment!
Yes! It's also inherently interesting. If we can generate enough interest in passiv(e) house standards, a huge market for products/options could emerge in the US as has in Europe.
@@davidchillton1744 My point is that a passive house costs substantially more than a spec house. I also made that post a year ago, well before lumber prices had their large increase.
2x6 insulated walls with exterior insulation and R38 roof. Up here in the north that's the code minimum. The airtightness and windows make a tremendous difference.
Yes, very strange. 150mm is for a garage here in Sweden (10C indoor temp). I guess standard for living area would be 200mm in walls and floor and 300mm in roof. Passive houses have 500mm rockwool in roof and walls and 400mm styrofoam in the floor. But we typically have snow in winter during a few months. We haven't had to insulate against heat before but for every summer now the temperature is rising and soon it will become common with AC here too.
@@ronwest7930 Up here where I am in the north... R-60 is minimum for standard attic insulation and R-30 with full thermal decoupling is minumum for walls. Basements also have to have at least R-20 with full thermal decoupling on all below-grade walls.
@@janj5786 Sounds good except the cost of achieving this. I wonder what kind of R rating straw bales set on ends would have. I am researching insulation types right now for a small home build.
Matt, I just did almost this exact scenario (but on new construction). I dropped a comment on your latest AeroBarrier video yesterday. Roxul R-23 Batts with Zip R-6.6. Same Panasonic ERV, and had AeroBarrier out yesterday (Thursday) to achieve a 0.21 ACH overall.
LOL - yeah, basically rebuilt the house. Probably for $400k-600k. I know the area in Austin where this house is. It's not a 100 year old house anymore since they pretty much rebuilt it.
@ Anthony Man ... because it’s just the profit and the most people and contractors ( over 99% ) don’t care or have ever heard or have any idea about a good building ... I’m from Germany and a carpenter by trade and everything what I see here on his TH-cam channel is really good and I’m happy that he shows who you can do it right but in general it’s new for you guys ... but back in Germany where Im coming from we do this already years and years ago ...
@@wolfgangselle4307 The price of energy in Germany and the rest of Europe will make you want to build better when it comes to energy efficiency. It continues on today. Building codes have pretty much increase the efficiency of homes in many areas of the US. For myself I spend a few hundred dollars a year for my natural gas. With solar panels installed, I spend almost $120 a year which is the minimum I'm paying to contribute to the infrastructure of the grid system. I'm am fortunate to live in an area (California) that allows me to not run my HVAC during spring and fall. During those times my total utility bill might reach $45 a month. I have a 12 year old house that has been insulated to the building codes required when it was built.
Rhaspun ... exactly that is the reason why in Germany or in the rest of Europe the building standards higher because the cost of the energy is so high. So u must build better to save any $$$ where ever you can. I know back in Germany my family pay around 5K Euro ( for example ... 1Kwh of power cost 36 Euro cent... 1 m3 of water cost 8 Euro ... ) a year just for the utilities cost. So now I live in Canada ( British Columbia ) and im a carpenter and building houses here. And i can see what we build here and what the standards are. And honestly what now here the code and how we build this days is or was even 20 years ago not even in Germany a standard. But as so long the energy cost here in North America is so low .... nothing will change
@Wolfgang Selle I’ve heard great things about Germany in general. My sister lived their for 3 years & everything in Germany is definitely more for quality and not for profit like here in the US.
Windows: I am so discouraged by thermopanes. I see failures everywhere. Then you have a huge expense of repair/replacement. Some let you just replace the glass but often out comes the window with a huge sealing and trim redo. No savings there! Pella made a double layer that you could remove one pane, clean and put back.
With the use of rockwool in a conditioned attic, did they follow 2018 IRC and install a vapor diffusion port and add conditioned air to the attic ? A video on the roof structure would be very interesting.
When I first saw your videos I thought your just another goon contractor that likes to make videos but your are one of the most well informed contractors I've seen in 30 years in construction you do your homework well most dont
I would like you to do a complete show on ERV Especially the intake on them (which I never see and needs to be wife approved!) but always a great show!
One Hundred year old house with a .2 Blower door test, now that is IMPRESSIVE! Matt, can you do a show comparing Passive, HERS, LEED, Energy Star ? I don't think anyone would watch it on my Channel but I think it is so important for people to know, and you do a great job. New intro music? Thanks
Refurbishments are key! Basic motivation: improve IAQ and comfort.By: ~double insulation (2*R); triple glazing (also 2*R); good airtightness: air barrier: n50 0.2h-1; ERV: with a good particulate filter (#Passivhaus quality requirement). This is the "full passive house package". And this is not that difficult to do. And it has so many additional advantages - as we have seen with the smoke from the wildfires in 2020. Do we have to add that this is also a cure to mitigate climate change? CO2-emissions will be zero, if the electricity will be generated by renewable energy. What we easily can do if most buildings have energy requirements as low as these ones.
Another great build video Matt. It reminds me of an interesting story. A couple years back an asian immigrant came to California. At the top of an established hills and canyons development, with single houses on each side of the community road he built a concrete block house with triple glazed windows and a roof with the curved thick red masonry shingles you tend to see more of in Florida. A great many of his neighbors, with their wood framed, tar based shingles ridiculed him mercilessly, that is until an out of control wildfire raced up the hills through the community. All that was left were burned out shells of the wooden homes except for the gentleman's concrete build, which didn't suffer any damage, not even scorch marks. Needless to say it made the network news shows. I'm not saying build a siege-proof castle but at least be a little proactive, recognize the risks of where you live and build or retro-fit accordingly. It will certainly reap you benefits, today or in the future.
The Panasonic ERV at 4:09 has a label in Chinese saying this unit is a evaluation sample only and not sellable, after demo it has to be returned to Panasonic.
Interesting that it is pegged right next to the "unit is for residential use only..." sticker. I've had demo-model tennis rackets that lasted 5 years when taken care of. Not a perfect relation at all to the issue seen here. What is the expected life on these units, 30 years?
Well, if the Building Inspector's Chinese is as rusty [well, nonexistent] as mine, I'm sure the unit install will "pass." Did note the serial number on the ERV was #16...
I don’t see the point in making some super air tight. Are you never going to open your door or windows? Those are massive openings in your envelope. I open my windows often. But then again I live in CA
Hey Matt - a couple of us are curious about the structural work that went on in that crawl space. Looks like those concrete columns were retro'd under the existing house as well as the modern addition - would be really curious as to how that was done...thx.
If you think about it, there is almost zero chance that there is ANY existing house. When they are showing the windows in the "existing section" the wall frames are all new (which they have to be to accommodate all that insulation) and the subfloor is all new. When they are under the house they doesn't appear to be any "old" support work. So - new wall frames, new insulation, new floors, new roof, new windows, etc, etc. Pretty easy to pour those concrete piers when there is no house.
Nice rebuild there. I like that he kept spray insulation out of his living space. I know many don't mind it but some of us do. You spend most of your time in your home and we should be cautious about what we put in there.
@@Cristian-hu9bx It tends to off-gas fairly quickly, its not really a long-term problem. The vast majority will be gone by the time you move in. Your body creates formaldehyde naturally anyways, some trace amounts in the air arent a big problem.
I love the passive home idea, but there’s so much active plant involved, it’s not really a passive house anymore. I would like to see a passive home with passive air management.
I was thinking while watching it is in no major way *passive* if it has a $4,000-6,000 air handler. At best it is either pseudo-passive or semi-passive.
Passive heating and active ventilation seems to be pretty common but you'd think they'd have *some* kind of passive ventilation that they could at least activate if needed. Otherwise, how quickly does the air start smelling like armpits and farts when the power goes out?
@@sabelch Or when the next owner buys wrong size filter, after 5 years of wondering why the AC doesn't work very well. Checks filter - sees totally clogged/disgusting - goes to big box home center and buys cheapest filters that 'should' fit. Gets home, slides in, see's it's a 16x16 MERV 16 and he bought 10x16 MERV 2. Shrugs. Shoves it in saying the gap will help air flow! Goes downstairs checks airflow and it's 'working great'. Thinks to himself, 'need to remember to replace filter every 5 years'.
there is just no way around it unless you're in the dryest possible climate and do a REALLY careful earth-tube design. that's just not possible most places.
Did they build the crawl space wit the cylindrical concrete posts 100 years ago? It looks like the house was lifted, I think a good idea but no mention of it.
I just love the information you give. Couple of questions though, 1. House dont have to breath? 2. Under the house the timber floor joists are completely foamed in is the no risk to rot? Cheers.
Excellent looking build. I like the idea of the Rockwool as a fire barrier and insulation vs using the 2lb closed cell exclusively. Great combination of mixing the insulations to get that house insulated and tight!
R38 is not 2x code that is code for Austin Tx. Also what about thermal bridging on the roof deck? He used exterior insulation on the walls but what about the usually larger area the deck?
Matt, I love your channel! One of these days, I'm going to build a house, and I would love to incorporate a lot of the building science that you highlight and the best practices that you recommend. It would be more than awesome if you could make a playlist of your best and latest ideas for various parts of a well built home.
How far north? That's tonnes of insulation, usually here in Winnipeg (close-ish to the southern border but still somewhat cold) code is 24 in the wall, 28 in cathedral ceilings, 50 in attics with crawlspace.
@@somedude-lc5dy I have R100 in my ceiling in Maine. 36" of blown cellulose in a vented attic. Air sealing under the cellulose. R100 ceiling is easy if you don't want liveable space in the attic. Cellulose is cheap. Getting R40 walls was much more difficult. Hell, just getting to R50 on my cathedral ceiling was more difficult and more expensive.
Very funny Show to watch my pov. I am from Finland and been a carpenter all my life. What you there call passiv house would not even pass as regular house here. Our norm Wall/insulation thickness is 250mm/9 inches with the air barrier at 200mm from The outside and then 2x2inch framing on inside for The last 50mm. That 50mm is also where we put all electrical and such to keep The air barrier hole free. Our roofs have about 400-500mm of insulation.
I'm always interested in how things are done in places like Scandinavia, Germany, Switzerland and Holland. As far as construction, it seems to be an interesting approach that the rest of the world could learn from. Do you have any videos or links explaining the process? One other thing, am I correct in assuming this "Zip-R" type product is basically backwards from how you guys do it? So you'd put structural sheathing on the inside, THEN the insulation on the outside, then cladding vs this "Zip-R" thing which seems to have super-thick insulation THEN an outer sheathing which is NEVER going to be as strong because it relies on nail running through insulation shear strength?
I dont have a video sorry, but basiclly the regular system is cladding, 22x100 boards in cross so that air can move behind cladding, windboard (Google hunton windboard). I usually use The 25mm this windboard because it dubbles as braceing for The frame. Then comes The frame 48x198mm then depending on which insulation you use either a vapour barrier plastic or a vapour open airbarrier paper. I myself never use rocwool or Any insulation of that sort. I use paper and a sellulose insulation, its recycled newspapers basiclly. This is because i bild houses that "breathe" and were we live IMO The only correct way to do it if you want The house to last generations. After The paper comes a 2x2 frame with insulation as well and over that whatever The customer wants.
At the beginning of the clip you can see the front of the house - I would comfortably say that the bricks might be original. Not saying they are in their original configuration, but they might be the original bricks, and they have been cleaned and reset. Highly doubt that any of more than 5% of the timber is original. Maybe it is a heritage area, and they "carefully disassembled and reassembled, replacing damaged timber along the way".
I am hope to begin planning a passivhaus in the next year. My primary concern is calibration of lifestyle preferences with a very tight and mechanical conditioned/ventilated space. For instance: when someone goes and lets the dog out into the yard on..say...December 15 and stands in the door briefly to watch the snow fall...has the air tightness for that night essentially been blown? Do all exterior doors need pressurized vestibules? My wife and I like sleeping with the window cracked and a lower temperature in the master bedroom. Will I therefore need a separate HVAC zone and thermal envelope for my master bedroom? I totally endorse the goals of passivhaus and believe we are approaching a time when wasteful heating and cooling practices will be not only unaffordable but considered a crime against humanity. Nevertheless I DO want to do what I can to accommodate my families lifestyle quirks.
I like a good modern style building. I like Craftsman style houses. I see absolutely no way to blend the two into a single building and have it make any sense. There is no reason to do it except that architects have been brainwashed to prefer modern.
Austin was home for 30 years and Modern really took hold 20+ years ago. Those old Craftsmans were saved by the "McMansion law" adopted to stop tearing down little old houses and filling the entire setback with a Black Star that blocked out the neighbors sun. Owner may have wanted Modern but had to keep the Original too.
What was purchase price. Existing demo and sq footage. Addition cost and cost to upgrade old house. Appraised value with 30 year energy cost for xxx per years?
30 years ago I built my own home here in Upstate NY . My walls and ceilings are a R-40 . All glass on south side for passive heating with electric backup .
I got a home equity loan and the permits were more worried about the money . The only one was the electrical inspector and I had a professional wire the 200 amp service so everybody was happy except the bank I got the loan from .
fog fog I wish somehow I could send a picture . On the south is a 48 ft x 8 ft x 16 ft high enclosed porch which acts like an air lock and with all that glass is always is at LEAST 10 degrees warmer than outside . But when the sun is shining in the winter with the winter angle it’s been up to 110 degrees at eye level where my thermometer is . I went to work on a clear WINDY January day and it was 10 degrees out . When I got home at 4pm , it was 110 on the porch and 100 in the house . I had to open the bathroom window and the laundry room back door to let the heat out . There is matching glass and sliding doors on the interior wall of the porch . The porch has a 4ft overhang so the sun doesn’t really hit the porch in the summertime .
@@patriciagantz377 yes, great for day time. Shielded from high summer sun by an eave, low winter sun still gets in. How do you manage cold winter nights?
Because of the closed-cell spray foam underneath, would that also essentially take care of Radon gas from within the crawl space as well? I’m curious as we have a major problem with that and crawl spaces here in the Carolinas.
It would help for sure but suspects the aerobarrier (very $$ by the way) is the real factor suppressing radon. Also rock wool is great but again double layer rock wool very $$. Dunno many architects who can afford this quality in their own homes even when u back architects EES out of cost...
Really like this architect! I like the choices of insulation and consciousness to off gassing. Really like the way the house looks outside too. Has some nice curb appeal.
So he mentioned not doing spray foam for the off gassing, but then they went into the crawl space and there was spray foam...wouldn’t that off gassing still get up through the floor and into the living space??
so you build an airtight house, but then you need to pump fresh air in? Could you explain how this is efficient? If it's hot outside, the air must be cooled. If it's cold outside, the air must be heated.
I have made the ultimate drinking game. Watch 3 of this mans videos at random and take a shot every time he says Airtight and insulation. Have fun getting your stomach pumped.
I cannot buy into a super insulated house in this lifetime myself simply because they don't have a true history of proof behind them and an all engineered lumber house either glue fails that just plain fact. I will continue to trust old time building methods being I am a fourth generation carpenter and general contractor I can speak with much real world experience. And having remodeled historic buildings and homes I have been very impressed at just how well many of them have held up.
Hey Matt, can you make a video about air barrier between garage and living spaces? I'm working on a Mother in law apartment on top of a garage and I want to make sure it's air tight. What would you recommend beyond the spray foam shown in this video?
Nicolas GUILLAUME Matt is a builder in Texas, more cooling than heating. In the north where we live, we have to do things a little different. Up north you want the vapor barrier towards the inside of the room closest to the drywall on the climate controlled room, in the south just the opposite. Your garage will probably be semi-climate controlled so probably won’t matter as much, but you will still need to seal up the garage from the house because of fumes coming off of a car, etc.
@@woohunter1 Thanks, semi-climate control is probably right. I plan to water proof the garage, It will have fill on 3 sides (daylight basement style) and I have not decided if I needed to insulate it or not. I think that the ground would regulate the temperature enough. My plan is then to insulate and air tight the floor above the garage. I want to use Rockwool bat for insulation in the joist space but I have not decided on the best way to make an air barrier. Maybe I could use a liquid applied seal between the Advantech flooring panels? Would I need a vapor barrier then? My plan is to install one right bellow the wood floor. I'm a little concerned about trapping moisture inside the underlayment but my understanding is that this shouldn't happen since my floor assembly will never be at a temperature where condensation can form. Regarding the vapor barrier in the walls of the house. I was planning to use Zip because it requires less labor than house warp, offers superior water/air proofing and has the highest perms rating of all the "plasticized sheathing" options. GP's Force Field would be second choice. Regardless, I was planning to use 6" bat Rockwool in the wall cavity and 2" Rockwool board on the outside. I wasn't planning to use a a vapor barrier at all so that the wall can dry to the outside or the inside depending on which side of the Zip membrane the condensation forms. I'm I being stupid? Thank you for your help :)
Nicolas GUILLAUME not stupid at all!!! Sounds like you already did your homework, just looking for a second or third opinion. You could do a flash and batt on your garage ceiling, it would give you your vapor barrier, sound “deadening”, and good R-value. When I insulated my cathedral ceiling in my sun porch, I ordered a DIY closed cell spray foam kit online to put 2” between the rafters, cost my about $800 to do 350 sq ft. Then put up my batt insulation.
I'm putting in 2x4 rafters 7" down, connected from collar ties to wall studs. I put in r30 roxul sideways and r15 between the drop rafters, adding R45. Then the wall studs are built out using 2x3 offset from the other studs to eliminate thermal bridging and add R15 to existing wall insulation. I love fireproof and no fumes from the Roxul.
The guy's an architect, so it's unlikely a deep wallet (unless inheritance/trust fund). And it's good advertising and thru creating accounting, probably gets deducted somehow. IRS Audit: "looks like personsal use - denied!" Architect: "it's a business expense! I show clients my attic!" IRS: "get outta here"
Just curious how the tech got under there to do the actual spraying! Don't they need a specific distance for proper application? What kind of prepwork had to be done on the old beams for effective contact? (i.e. just wire brush or more aggressive?)
It's really important people like Matt are posting videos, a lot of clients don't even know these options are available. All it takes is for a client to ask about passive house standards and watch the rats run for the hills.
6:15 "ooh, point one five, double the traditional u factor I'm seeing for most..." I think what he meant to say was half the U-Factor. Doubling the U-Factor = Bad. Doubling the R-value = Good. Just a slip of the tongue though.
we use ceramic blocks and graphite styrofoam, U factor for a wall is about 0,14 [W/m2*K] and triple glazed pvc windows are today no more than U=0,8 (76 mm depth) the wall with styrofoam is 45 cm thick (it is wet and heavy technology but it will last for ages) I really dont get how you get 0.15 U triple glazed windows, physically it is impossible, could you elaborate and give some technical specs we use rockwool sure, bot mostly for the roof
Will there be an air barrier over the Rockwool in the roof-deck? I would be thinking about condensation on the decking. Maybe that is more climate specific?
I believe newer codes allow for for this only in climate zones 1,2,3. Though a conditioned attic, it requires what is effectively a ridge vent, covered with an air tight, vapor permeable barrier before traditional roofing is laid down. The link below terms it a “vapor diffusion port.” insulationinstitute.org/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/BuildingUnventedAtticAssemblies-N089.pdf
You should get Corona or Budweiser to sponsor a build video, then you could show the crew three sheets to the wind by noon...Like 90% of real construction sites. Between booze and pain pills they probably account for the vast majority of botched jobs and injuries.
Exterior insulation can it just be added to an existing house? I'm in zone 4 according to your map. In a pre-civil war house. Currently removing the blown in shredded paper insulation to replace it.
I'd like to know more about how the roof was insulated. I believe you mentioned it was R38 in the end using Rockwool, but how did he get there? Is it just Rockwool? Is there any rigid foam on this outside? I'm looking to finish an attic space in an old home in Chicago and I would like to not use spray foam. I'm hoping there's a way to use Rockwool and still get a good R value.
Well you most likely have 1x2 boards holding your interior walls with little to no insulation so change those out with Tstuds (google them). You will loose 6" off every exterior to your interior. Replace all windows to triple pain. Hire a company to spray an air tight barrier. Spray foam and upgrade appliances and there you go.
@@NormEZ Eifs are exterior insulation finishing systems. My experience with them and masonry has been expense with eventual moisture issues. I have seen a lot of success with wood construction and eifs. Here is a link for tstuds www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=m.youtube.com/watch%3Fv%3DmxDSulcLpAE&ved=2ahUKEwiAoZW0lP3iAhVndt8KHfSEDYIQwqsBMAF6BAgGEAU&usg=AOvVaw07xiaWFvXMkxvB14FEJuXl.
The triple pane windows are great until...........they all start to leak. It is not a question of if,it is a question of when. That is why the replacement window industry is a six billion dollar industry in this country.
Replacement windows because what the builders install are cheap! I've know some folks having to replace windows and siding within 5 years of buying a new house!
@@johnwhite2576 We are not talking window leakage per se,I'm talking glass leakage. Show me a a window company that warrants their window glass for life not to leak. Would be better off installing a window of real quality with a wooden exterior storm. By real window of quality I'm talking something like Heartwood windows. Alas,the much older and some say better company just folded,that being Zeluck. All that glass is heading to the landfill in less than 20 yrs.
@@jrkorman Those windows may appear to be great,in reality,they are just a smidgen above builders grade. Try Heartwood if you are serious about quality windows.
Double pane can leak as well. What I have found is the greatest risk for a window failure is if the window is installed in a house with minimal to no overhang. There have been studies on houses with minimal to no overhang and it was found that 25% of them had leaks/building envelope issues within the first 10 years. Every 6 inches halved the risk of building envelope failure. I have some double pane vinyl windows that were installed 20 years ago and have had no leaks while I have some newer high end double pane windows that were installed only 10 years ago in a new addition which did not have any overhangs and they have already failed. The windows that have not failed and were under overhangs were of various grades of quality. If you can put a decent sized overhang, that will be the largest factor in the window's survivability.
I seen the zip systems leek water in 15 minutes in a house in a rain storm with no siding there is no advantage for the zip system! If u plastic rap on the wall sheeting I seen mold in side the walls because the wall could not breathe !
Such a gorgeous book - each shed is unique and inspiring, and I love all the tiny details Kotite features to help readers imagine how to create their own She Sheds th-cam.com/users/postUgkxe9yi0sulKgsp0VJJCIrLWWkvVqcU7LFR . The feature on Dinah's Rustic Retreat is like something from a fairy tale. It's really inspiring to see how creative all these ordinary people are in making beautiful and useful spaces on a modest scale.
I think it would be great if you do a show going back to these houses and talking to the owners on how the faired in the freeze.
Please keep posting on Passive Houses, and sharing all the latest and greatest on this. If more are built, the cheaper they will become. Allowing more people to be able to afford a comfortable, low energy demanding house. A win for people and the environment!
Yes! It's also inherently interesting. If we can generate enough interest in passiv(e) house standards, a huge market for products/options could emerge in the US as has in Europe.
It only cost about 3 to 4 hundred a foot. How big do you need one?
There is nothing affordable about this house, or passive houses in general.
@@Noold there’s nothing that’s affordable these days. What’s your point mate?
@@davidchillton1744 My point is that a passive house costs substantially more than a spec house. I also made that post a year ago, well before lumber prices had their large increase.
2x6 insulated walls with exterior insulation and R38 roof. Up here in the north that's the code minimum. The airtightness and windows make a tremendous difference.
Tell me what is more typical walls and insulation where you live? I'm curious.
Yes, very strange. 150mm is for a garage here in Sweden (10C indoor temp). I guess standard for living area would be 200mm in walls and floor and 300mm in roof. Passive houses have 500mm rockwool in roof and walls and 400mm styrofoam in the floor. But we typically have snow in winter during a few months. We haven't had to insulate against heat before but for every summer now the temperature is rising and soon it will become common with AC here too.
@@ronwest7930 Up here where I am in the north... R-60 is minimum for standard attic insulation and R-30 with full thermal decoupling is minumum for walls. Basements also have to have at least R-20 with full thermal decoupling on all below-grade walls.
@@janj5786 Sounds good except the cost of achieving this. I wonder what kind of R rating straw bales set on ends would have. I am researching insulation types right now for a small home build.
@@ronwest7930 Agreed... I am building now and costs are high.
I have nothing to do with building, I'm not even planning to renovate a house,
but for some reason I still find your videos super interesting :)
I we all can dream. Maybe you will build a house or structure one day and you’ll know who to look to for advice.
Can you do this with icf
Can totally relate to the "nothing to do with building" vibe
My wife asked if I could build her a pottery studio in our detached garage, I’m like “can I? I watch the build show, of corse I can!”
Well, Step 1: Get Rich. Then dipshits just build whatever you want for you...
Matt, I just did almost this exact scenario (but on new construction). I dropped a comment on your latest AeroBarrier video yesterday. Roxul R-23 Batts with Zip R-6.6. Same Panasonic ERV, and had AeroBarrier out yesterday (Thursday) to achieve a 0.21 ACH overall.
2x the level of code insulation- simple trick - gut and redesign the house!!
LOL - yeah, basically rebuilt the house. Probably for $400k-600k. I know the area in Austin where this house is. It's not a 100 year old house anymore since they pretty much rebuilt it.
The 50k dollar HVAC system is post roaring 20's!
Natural gas salesmen hate him!!
@@jeffj2495 totally agree. Gutting the interior of a historic home makes it no longer historic. 🙄
I want to become a builder! So sick of everyone building very quick to rot and inefficient homes!
@ Anthony Man ... because it’s just the profit and the most people and contractors ( over 99% ) don’t care or have ever heard or have any idea about a good building ... I’m from Germany and a carpenter by trade and everything what I see here on his TH-cam channel is really good and I’m happy that he shows who you can do it right but in general it’s new for you guys ... but back in Germany where Im coming from we do this already years and years ago ...
@@wolfgangselle4307very nice! I think I would love Germany! Thank you!
@@wolfgangselle4307 The price of energy in Germany and the rest of Europe will make you want to build better when it comes to energy efficiency. It continues on today. Building codes have pretty much increase the efficiency of homes in many areas of the US. For myself I spend a few hundred dollars a year for my natural gas. With solar panels installed, I spend almost $120 a year which is the minimum I'm paying to contribute to the infrastructure of the grid system. I'm am fortunate to live in an area (California) that allows me to not run my HVAC during spring and fall. During those times my total utility bill might reach $45 a month. I have a 12 year old house that has been insulated to the building codes required when it was built.
Rhaspun ... exactly that is the reason why in Germany or in the rest of Europe the building standards higher because the cost of the energy is so high. So u must build better to save any $$$ where ever you can. I know back in Germany my family pay around 5K Euro ( for example ... 1Kwh of power cost 36 Euro cent... 1 m3 of water cost 8 Euro ... ) a year just for the utilities cost. So now I live in Canada ( British Columbia ) and im a carpenter and building houses here. And i can see what we build here and what the standards are. And honestly what now here the code and how we build this days is or was even 20 years ago not even in Germany a standard. But as so long the energy cost here in North America is so low .... nothing will change
@Wolfgang Selle I’ve heard great things about Germany in general. My sister lived their for 3 years & everything in Germany is definitely more for quality and not for profit like here in the US.
Thank you for showing us this Passive House.
Windows: I am so discouraged by thermopanes. I see failures everywhere. Then you have a huge expense of repair/replacement. Some let you just replace the glass but often out comes the window with a huge sealing and trim redo. No savings there! Pella made a double layer that you could remove one pane, clean and put back.
With the use of rockwool in a conditioned attic, did they follow 2018 IRC and install a vapor diffusion port and add conditioned air to the attic ? A video on the roof structure would be very interesting.
When I first saw your videos I thought your just another goon contractor that likes to make videos but your are one of the most well informed contractors I've seen in 30 years in construction you do your homework well most dont
I would like you to do a complete show on ERV Especially the intake on them (which I never see and needs to be wife approved!) but always a great show!
I heard the music and heard passive house! I thought I was listening to Matt Ferrel from Undecided instead of Matt Reisinger from The Build Show!
Nice job. I like how the only spray foam was used on the outside of the house. 0.2 Air changes per hour at 50 pascals is super good.
Super nice house amazing choice of windows, and super duper insulation.
It doesn't matter if your mother in law leaves her doors open.
lol 😂
Only thermal mass will defeat the open door treatment
As long as she uses the exhaust fan we she is good to "Go"
One Hundred year old house with a .2 Blower door test, now that is IMPRESSIVE! Matt, can you do a show comparing Passive, HERS, LEED, Energy Star ? I don't think anyone would watch it on my Channel but I think it is so important for people to know, and you do a great job. New intro music? Thanks
Refurbishments are key! Basic motivation: improve IAQ and comfort.By: ~double insulation (2*R); triple glazing (also 2*R); good airtightness: air barrier: n50 0.2h-1; ERV: with a good particulate filter (#Passivhaus quality requirement). This is the "full passive house package". And this is not that difficult to do. And it has so many additional advantages - as we have seen with the smoke from the wildfires in 2020. Do we have to add that this is also a cure to mitigate climate change? CO2-emissions will be zero, if the electricity will be generated by renewable energy. What we easily can do if most buildings have energy requirements as low as these ones.
Another great build video Matt. It reminds me of an interesting story.
A couple years back an asian immigrant came to California. At the top of an established hills and canyons development, with single houses on each side of the community road he built a concrete block house with triple glazed windows and a roof with the curved thick red masonry shingles you tend to see more of in Florida. A great many of his neighbors, with their wood framed, tar based shingles ridiculed him mercilessly, that is until an out of control wildfire raced up the hills through the community. All that was left were burned out shells of the wooden homes except for the gentleman's concrete build, which didn't suffer any damage, not even scorch marks. Needless to say it made the network news shows. I'm not saying build a siege-proof castle but at least be a little proactive, recognize the risks of where you live and build or retro-fit accordingly. It will certainly reap you benefits, today or in the future.
And now he has a house in the middle of an ugly burned out wasteland. Hope he doesn't have to sell anytime soon.
untill an earthquake hits Cali and the neighbors laugh at him when his house fell down
The Panasonic ERV at 4:09 has a label in Chinese saying this unit is a evaluation sample only and not sellable, after demo it has to be returned to Panasonic.
Interesting that it is pegged right next to the "unit is for residential use only..." sticker.
I've had demo-model tennis rackets that lasted 5 years when taken care of. Not a perfect relation at all to the issue seen here.
What is the expected life on these units, 30 years?
Harbor Freight? Hope the 20% off coupon was used.
I guess when you are the architect or builder you can put in freebies
Well, if the Building Inspector's Chinese is as rusty [well, nonexistent] as mine, I'm sure the unit install will "pass." Did note the serial number on the ERV was #16...
lol builder caught red handed?
Matt, those piers under the house look new. Any details on those?
My guess is that is the new part of the house?
@@benmorgan5289 no, those piers span under the entire home at the end of the video. No way that is the new part only.
Nothing simple about this build.
It’s really satisfying to see all that insulation! Love passive house tours!
I don’t see the point in making some super air tight. Are you never going to open your door or windows? Those are massive openings in your envelope.
I open my windows often. But then again I live in CA
Hey Matt - a couple of us are curious about the structural work that went on in that crawl space. Looks like those concrete columns were retro'd under the existing house as well as the modern addition - would be really curious as to how that was done...thx.
J Healy - We need the details on this concrete columns how deep are they.
Totally my question, too!
If you think about it, there is almost zero chance that there is ANY existing house. When they are showing the windows in the "existing section" the wall frames are all new (which they have to be to accommodate all that insulation) and the subfloor is all new. When they are under the house they doesn't appear to be any "old" support work. So - new wall frames, new insulation, new floors, new roof, new windows, etc, etc. Pretty easy to pour those concrete piers when there is no house.
would have been cheaper to live underground.
Nice rebuild there. I like that he kept spray insulation out of his living space. I know many don't mind it but some of us do. You spend most of your time in your home and we should be cautious about what we put in there.
Why did he put Roxul batts inside which still contain Formaldehyde binders if your worried about indoor air quality?
@@Cristian-hu9bx It tends to off-gas fairly quickly, its not really a long-term problem. The vast majority will be gone by the time you move in. Your body creates formaldehyde naturally anyways, some trace amounts in the air arent a big problem.
If you use 2x6 studs, you can go to 24" centres. Less wood, less heat loss.
Check out the Tstud video instead, even better.
I love how you guys totally geek out on all this tech.
I am super interested in a tight house like this! Thanks for all the info
I love the passive home idea, but there’s so much active plant involved, it’s not really a passive house anymore. I would like to see a passive home with passive air management.
I was thinking while watching it is in no major way *passive* if it has a $4,000-6,000 air handler. At best it is either pseudo-passive or semi-passive.
Passive heating and active ventilation seems to be pretty common but you'd think they'd have *some* kind of passive ventilation that they could at least activate if needed. Otherwise, how quickly does the air start smelling like armpits and farts when the power goes out?
@@sabelch Or when the next owner buys wrong size filter, after 5 years of wondering why the AC doesn't work very well. Checks filter - sees totally clogged/disgusting - goes to big box home center and buys cheapest filters that 'should' fit. Gets home, slides in, see's it's a 16x16 MERV 16 and he bought 10x16 MERV 2. Shrugs. Shoves it in saying the gap will help air flow! Goes downstairs checks airflow and it's 'working great'. Thinks to himself, 'need to remember to replace filter every 5 years'.
there is just no way around it unless you're in the dryest possible climate and do a REALLY careful earth-tube design. that's just not possible most places.
@@somedude-lc5dy can't do some kind of hybrid?
Did they build the crawl space wit the cylindrical concrete posts 100 years ago? It looks like the house was lifted, I think a good idea but no mention of it.
I just love the information you give. Couple of questions though, 1. House dont have to breath? 2. Under the house the timber floor joists are completely foamed in is the no risk to rot? Cheers.
Excellent looking build. I like the idea of the Rockwool as a fire barrier and insulation vs using the 2lb closed cell exclusively. Great combination of mixing the insulations to get that house insulated and tight!
That house is so passive.. it was going to say something rude. But, just let it go.
1806StoneHouse That house is so passive even Gandhi was like "hey can we take it up a notch"
@@troyb3394 Blessed by the dali Lahma? Spelling issue there, no doubt......
Very cool house but FFS the only thing from 1913 that he kept is the lot. Don't blow smoke up our asses
Hey Matt
Did you hear about building with hempcrete? If not you should look it up, and make a video about it... It's the future!
There is not single peace in that house that is 100years old! So I don't know what you are renovating? Basically this is brand new house!
Pretty much just rebuilt the home from the looks of it.
R38 is not 2x code that is code for Austin Tx. Also what about thermal bridging on the roof deck? He used exterior insulation on the walls but what about the usually larger area the deck?
I'm so happy you discussed this! I'm about to do the same to my house. Thank you!
Matt, I love your channel! One of these days, I'm going to build a house, and I would love to incorporate a lot of the building science that you highlight and the best practices that you recommend. It would be more than awesome if you could make a playlist of your best and latest ideas for various parts of a well built home.
Great idea. Let me work on that
I second this idea.
I have R100 in the ceiling and R55 in the walls in northen Canada.
LOL What Kinda of Battery do you have in your Truck?
I bet that's a good starting point in Canada.
How far north? That's tonnes of insulation, usually here in Winnipeg (close-ish to the southern border but still somewhat cold) code is 24 in the wall, 28 in cathedral ceilings, 50 in attics with crawlspace.
what is the stack-up of the roof? shingles, ice/water barrier, plywood, then a super-thick layer sprayed into the attic?
@@somedude-lc5dy I have R100 in my ceiling in Maine. 36" of blown cellulose in a vented attic. Air sealing under the cellulose. R100 ceiling is easy if you don't want liveable space in the attic. Cellulose is cheap. Getting R40 walls was much more difficult. Hell, just getting to R50 on my cathedral ceiling was more difficult and more expensive.
Very funny Show to watch my pov. I am from Finland and been a carpenter all my life. What you there call passiv house would not even pass as regular house here. Our norm Wall/insulation thickness is 250mm/9 inches with the air barrier at 200mm from The outside and then 2x2inch framing on inside for The last 50mm. That 50mm is also where we put all electrical and such to keep The air barrier hole free. Our roofs have about 400-500mm of insulation.
I'm always interested in how things are done in places like Scandinavia, Germany, Switzerland and Holland. As far as construction, it seems to be an interesting approach that the rest of the world could learn from. Do you have any videos or links explaining the process?
One other thing, am I correct in assuming this "Zip-R" type product is basically backwards from how you guys do it? So you'd put structural sheathing on the inside, THEN the insulation on the outside, then cladding vs this "Zip-R" thing which seems to have super-thick insulation THEN an outer sheathing which is NEVER going to be as strong because it relies on nail running through insulation shear strength?
I dont have a video sorry, but basiclly the regular system is cladding, 22x100 boards in cross so that air can move behind cladding, windboard (Google hunton windboard). I usually use The 25mm this windboard because it dubbles as braceing for The frame. Then comes The frame 48x198mm then depending on which insulation you use either a vapour barrier plastic or a vapour open airbarrier paper. I myself never use rocwool or Any insulation of that sort. I use paper and a sellulose insulation, its recycled newspapers basiclly. This is because i bild houses that "breathe" and were we live IMO The only correct way to do it if you want The house to last generations. After The paper comes a 2x2 frame with insulation as well and over that whatever The customer wants.
th-cam.com/video/MiBfp48IDIc/w-d-xo.html i also build with this elements
Do you need devices to bring in outside air?
Not much "old" house there at all. Looks more like a complete teardown and build in place?
Really, I imagine its near impossible to retrofit some existing homes to this standard especially ones over a certain age.
You mean, an extreme makeover❓
At the beginning of the clip you can see the front of the house - I would comfortably say that the bricks might be original. Not saying they are in their original configuration, but they might be the original bricks, and they have been cleaned and reset. Highly doubt that any of more than 5% of the timber is original. Maybe it is a heritage area, and they "carefully disassembled and reassembled, replacing damaged timber along the way".
Yeah, agreed. Pretty much $100's of thousands - and rebuilt the house.
Would you still need the filter system if heat/ac was outside?? Would it no longer be a passive house if the unit was outside?
I am hope to begin planning a passivhaus in the next year. My primary concern is calibration of lifestyle preferences with a very tight and mechanical conditioned/ventilated space. For instance: when someone goes and lets the dog out into the yard on..say...December 15 and stands in the door briefly to watch the snow fall...has the air tightness for that night essentially been blown? Do all exterior doors need pressurized vestibules? My wife and I like sleeping with the window cracked and a lower temperature in the master bedroom. Will I therefore need a separate HVAC zone and thermal envelope for my master bedroom?
I totally endorse the goals of passivhaus and believe we are approaching a time when wasteful heating and cooling practices will be not only unaffordable but considered a crime against humanity. Nevertheless I DO want to do what I can to accommodate my families lifestyle quirks.
Would be possible to know how well the house beheave during the last month winter storm? Great work!!
I like a good modern style building. I like Craftsman style houses. I see absolutely no way to blend the two into a single building and have it make any sense. There is no reason to do it except that architects have been brainwashed to prefer modern.
Yep, kind of like merging the styles of a Picasso with a Monet.
Austin was home for 30 years and Modern really took hold 20+ years ago. Those old Craftsmans were saved by the "McMansion law" adopted to stop tearing down little old houses and filling the entire setback with a Black Star that blocked out the neighbors sun. Owner may have wanted Modern but had to keep the Original too.
@@ModernMountainLiving The owner & resident is the architect. Architecture school let him, and society, down.
Great remodel, thanks for sharing. Looking forward to more on this house!
What was the air barrier for the attic? Same or similar system as the walls?
Good question. Show me
What was purchase price. Existing demo and sq footage. Addition cost and cost to upgrade old house. Appraised value with 30 year energy cost for xxx per years?
30 years ago I built my own home here in Upstate NY . My walls and ceilings are a R-40 . All glass on south side for passive heating with electric backup .
30 years ago you must have been turning some heads with specs like that. Did everyone think you were crazy?
I got a home equity loan and the permits were more worried about the money . The only one was the electrical inspector and I had a professional wire the 200 amp service so everybody was happy except the bank I got the loan from .
Does all that southern glass leak major warmth in winter? Double glazed with curtains and roofed pelmets?
fog fog I wish somehow I could send a picture . On the south is a 48 ft x 8 ft x 16 ft high enclosed porch which acts like an air lock and with all that glass is always is at LEAST 10 degrees warmer than outside . But when the sun is shining in the winter with the winter angle it’s been up to 110 degrees at eye level where my thermometer is . I went to work on a clear WINDY January day and it was 10 degrees out . When I got home at 4pm , it was 110 on the porch and 100 in the house . I had to open the bathroom window and the laundry room back door to let the heat out . There is matching glass and sliding doors on the interior wall of the porch . The porch has a 4ft overhang so the sun doesn’t really hit the porch in the summertime .
@@patriciagantz377 yes, great for day time. Shielded from high summer sun by an eave, low winter sun still gets in. How do you manage cold winter nights?
Because of the closed-cell spray foam underneath, would that also essentially take care of Radon gas from within the crawl space as well? I’m curious as we have a major problem with that and crawl spaces here in the Carolinas.
Marcus Fant Good question-hope he answers.
It would help for sure but suspects the aerobarrier (very $$ by the way) is the real factor suppressing radon. Also rock wool is great but again double layer rock wool very $$. Dunno many architects who can afford this quality in their own homes even when u back architects EES out of cost...
Radon is one of the biggest scams ever.
Really like this architect! I like the choices of insulation and consciousness to off gassing. Really like the way the house looks outside too. Has some nice curb appeal.
What about the formaldehyde in the Rockwool, is it a concern?
@@networkingdude there is certified formaldehyde free rock wool from Owen's Corning on the market right now.
So he mentioned not doing spray foam for the off gassing, but then they went into the crawl space and there was spray foam...wouldn’t that off gassing still get up through the floor and into the living space??
Cool tech as always, but money really can’t buy taste. It’s a crime what they did with the ugly addition to that beautiful house.
I'm glad I'm not the only one who thinks that too
so you build an airtight house, but then you need to pump fresh air in? Could you explain how this is efficient? If it's hot outside, the air must be cooled. If it's cold outside, the air must be heated.
How can we learn more about the details of the ceiling insulation?
Im really suprised more wasnt talked about in this video
I can't wait until I can AFFORD this type of build. It's got to be a TON of money up front.
I have made the ultimate drinking game. Watch 3 of this mans videos at random and take a shot every time he says Airtight and insulation. Have fun getting your stomach pumped.
I cannot buy into a super insulated house in this lifetime myself simply because they don't have a true history of proof behind them and an all engineered lumber house either glue fails that just plain fact.
I will continue to trust old time building methods being I am a fourth generation carpenter and general contractor I can speak with much real world experience. And having remodeled historic buildings and homes I have been very impressed at just how well many of them have held up.
A billion dollars later ....
Hey Matt, can you make a video about air barrier between garage and living spaces? I'm working on a Mother in law apartment on top of a garage and I want to make sure it's air tight. What would you recommend beyond the spray foam shown in this video?
Depends on what part of the country you live in
@@woohunter1 I'm in Seattle WA. You made me curious, why do you say that it matters?
Nicolas GUILLAUME Matt is a builder in Texas, more cooling than heating. In the north where we live, we have to do things a little different. Up north you want the vapor barrier towards the inside of the room closest to the drywall on the climate controlled room, in the south just the opposite. Your garage will probably be semi-climate controlled so probably won’t matter as much, but you will still need to seal up the garage from the house because of fumes coming off of a car, etc.
@@woohunter1 Thanks, semi-climate control is probably right. I plan to water proof the garage, It will have fill on 3 sides (daylight basement style) and I have not decided if I needed to insulate it or not. I think that the ground would regulate the temperature enough.
My plan is then to insulate and air tight the floor above the garage. I want to use Rockwool bat for insulation in the joist space but I have not decided on the best way to make an air barrier. Maybe I could use a liquid applied seal between the Advantech flooring panels? Would I need a vapor barrier then? My plan is to install one right bellow the wood floor. I'm a little concerned about trapping moisture inside the underlayment but my understanding is that this shouldn't happen since my floor assembly will never be at a temperature where condensation can form.
Regarding the vapor barrier in the walls of the house. I was planning to use Zip because it requires less labor than house warp, offers superior water/air proofing and has the highest perms rating of all the "plasticized sheathing" options. GP's Force Field would be second choice. Regardless, I was planning to use 6" bat Rockwool in the wall cavity and 2" Rockwool board on the outside. I wasn't planning to use a a vapor barrier at all so that the wall can dry to the outside or the inside depending on which side of the Zip membrane the condensation forms. I'm I being stupid? Thank you for your help :)
Nicolas GUILLAUME not stupid at all!!! Sounds like you already did your homework, just looking for a second or third opinion. You could do a flash and batt on your garage ceiling, it would give you your vapor barrier, sound “deadening”, and good R-value. When I insulated my cathedral ceiling in my sun porch, I ordered a DIY closed cell spray foam kit online to put 2” between the rafters, cost my about $800 to do 350 sq ft. Then put up my batt insulation.
So the titular "simple trick" for "2x code insulation" is to... use a lot of insulation?
And air sealing @ 2:05
I'm putting in 2x4 rafters 7" down, connected from collar ties to wall studs. I put in r30 roxul sideways and r15 between the drop rafters, adding R45. Then the wall studs are built out using 2x3 offset from the other studs to eliminate thermal bridging and add R15 to existing wall insulation. I love fireproof and no fumes from the Roxul.
So cool what you can do when money is no object.
The guy's an architect, so it's unlikely a deep wallet (unless inheritance/trust fund). And it's good advertising and thru creating accounting, probably gets deducted somehow. IRS Audit: "looks like personsal use - denied!" Architect: "it's a business expense! I show clients my attic!" IRS: "get outta here"
That air handler looked like a flex duct mess.
The public need more videos like this! Nice work!
Doesn’t appear that much of that house is 100 years old. It’s like a hundred year old axe; I’ve replaced the head once and the handle twice.
No spay foam. Thanks very much.
Just curious how the tech got under there to do the actual spraying! Don't they need a specific distance for proper application? What kind of prepwork had to be done on the old beams for effective contact? (i.e. just wire brush or more aggressive?)
It's really important people like Matt are posting videos, a lot of clients don't even know these options are available. All it takes is for a client to ask about passive house standards and watch the rats run for the hills.
6:15 "ooh, point one five, double the traditional u factor I'm seeing for most..." I think what he meant to say was half the U-Factor. Doubling the U-Factor = Bad. Doubling the R-value = Good. Just a slip of the tongue though.
I would like a ROI summary. How many centuries does it take to pay for itself?
It's a concern for many, my neighbor just had 13,000 worth of double glazed windows installed, on credit? I'm wondering the same thing, 20 years? 30?
These are sponsored adverts for the insulation (etc) companies. So, his ROI would be real quick...
Does he make any test (blower door test), because I'm little afraid about this passive result (not on paper but in fact) after finishing rockwool?
Thank you for the high efficiency how to videos!!! Key to helping us build one here in Oklahoma as there are no PHIUS people here!
Wow! If there's ever a big flood there, that house is so tight, it will float like a boat!
The quest to build a "tight" home has become a mental disorder it seems. Massive overkill.
@@MW-gh1mo no
Speak up guys, or use close captions. cannot hear, esp. the architect
Not crazy about overall design but really like everything else!
Not into Contemporary either. More a French Countryside look kinda guy here. But yeah, I agree as well re: everything else.
we use ceramic blocks and graphite styrofoam, U factor for a wall is about 0,14 [W/m2*K] and triple glazed pvc windows are today no more than U=0,8 (76 mm depth)
the wall with styrofoam is 45 cm thick (it is wet and heavy technology but it will last for ages)
I really dont get how you get 0.15 U triple glazed windows, physically it is impossible, could you elaborate and give some technical specs
we use rockwool sure, bot mostly for the roof
Will there be an air barrier over the Rockwool in the roof-deck? I would be thinking about condensation on the decking. Maybe that is more climate specific?
I believe newer codes allow for for this only in climate zones 1,2,3. Though a conditioned attic, it requires what is effectively a ridge vent, covered with an air tight, vapor permeable barrier before traditional roofing is laid down. The link below terms it a “vapor diffusion port.”
insulationinstitute.org/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/BuildingUnventedAtticAssemblies-N089.pdf
I have been debating building a mountain home, so now I watch Matt's videos to know what to look for when I do.
I wonder how much extra this sealing cost over a typical build out
You should get Corona or Budweiser to sponsor a build video, then you could show the crew three sheets to the wind by noon...Like 90% of real construction sites. Between booze and pain pills they probably account for the vast majority of botched jobs and injuries.
Exterior insulation can it just be added to an existing house? I'm in zone 4 according to your map. In a pre-civil war house. Currently removing the blown in shredded paper insulation to replace it.
dropping this dropping that.. with hydronic heat you don't need any of that.
I'd like to know more about how the roof was insulated. I believe you mentioned it was R38 in the end using Rockwool, but how did he get there? Is it just Rockwool? Is there any rigid foam on this outside? I'm looking to finish an attic space in an old home in Chicago and I would like to not use spray foam. I'm hoping there's a way to use Rockwool and still get a good R value.
I'd love to know what I could do to my home that was built in the 1940's ... all the exterior walls are cinder block..... and go!
Well you most likely have 1x2 boards holding your interior walls with little to no insulation so change those out with Tstuds (google them). You will loose 6" off every exterior to your interior. Replace all windows to triple pain. Hire a company to spray an air tight barrier. Spray foam and upgrade appliances and there you go.
Use EIFS
@@buildshow for the non construction guy... what would that be...?.. . (I could Google it, but it'd take away from you teaching me something new)
@@NormEZ Eifs are exterior insulation finishing systems. My experience with them and masonry has been expense with eventual moisture issues. I have seen a lot of success with wood construction and eifs. Here is a link for tstuds www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=m.youtube.com/watch%3Fv%3DmxDSulcLpAE&ved=2ahUKEwiAoZW0lP3iAhVndt8KHfSEDYIQwqsBMAF6BAgGEAU&usg=AOvVaw07xiaWFvXMkxvB14FEJuXl.
Yeti cooler: so overpriced and underperforms? I’m going to build the Rtic version which functions just as well.
I am seriously concerned when they say they're in Austin TX and I'm watching this from Vermont how ymdo you even think you winter's are comparable
The triple pane windows are great until...........they all start to leak. It is not a question of if,it is a question of when. That is why the replacement window industry is a six billion dollar industry in this country.
Replacement windows because what the builders install are cheap! I've know some folks having to replace windows and siding within 5 years of buying a new house!
Those fiberglass frames are pretty stable while they haven’t been around for long every reason to suspect they won’t leak for many years
@@johnwhite2576 We are not talking window leakage per se,I'm talking glass leakage. Show me a a window company that warrants their window glass for life not to leak. Would be better off installing a window of real quality with a wooden exterior storm. By real window of quality I'm talking something like Heartwood windows. Alas,the much older and some say better company just folded,that being Zeluck. All that glass is heading to the landfill in less than 20 yrs.
@@jrkorman Those windows may appear to be great,in reality,they are just a smidgen above builders grade. Try Heartwood if you are serious about quality windows.
Double pane can leak as well. What I have found is the greatest risk for a window failure is if the window is installed in a house with minimal to no overhang. There have been studies on houses with minimal to no overhang and it was found that 25% of them had leaks/building envelope issues within the first 10 years. Every 6 inches halved the risk of building envelope failure. I have some double pane vinyl windows that were installed 20 years ago and have had no leaks while I have some newer high end double pane windows that were installed only 10 years ago in a new addition which did not have any overhangs and they have already failed. The windows that have not failed and were under overhangs were of various grades of quality. If you can put a decent sized overhang, that will be the largest factor in the window's survivability.
im seeing alot of houses framed in R-30 for walls and R-60 for Ceilings. Garage Ceilings are famous for leaking air and just feeling cold overall.
Lol, what is this "Simple Trick" clickbait title? It looks like the 'trick' is just pay for a truckload of insulation.
I seen the zip systems leek water in 15 minutes in a house in a rain storm with no siding there is no advantage for the zip system! If u plastic rap on the wall sheeting I seen mold in side the walls because the wall could not breathe !
I hate when people use acronyms in videos. I’m learning here. Tell me what things are. Idk what an erv is.
Those horizontal fire breaks look like a nightmare for cabling.
Is this dress code black shirts and new blue jeans? If that's the case, I don't fit in with all my flannel plaid shirts.
Why are people so afraid of spray foam when they do a passive house?
How did this house fare during the 2021 Texas power outage?
I would like to hear of a good finish for the above ground portion of an ICF foundation. What do you recommend?
What is that like $200k worth of rockwool? Holy smokes
At what point do you call the house a new house. Looks like only the foundation is original, kinda like the grandfather's axe idea