Intend to do this, fantastic tutorial. I have the manual, but your video broke it down perfectly. Hoping the removal won't be so bad, as the swing arm and subframe are currently removed.
Thanks for the video and link to service manual. I just emailed the company you referred for the spanner socket. I'm breaking down my bike right now, pretty sure I have a bent valve. I turned over the crank and all the pistons are moving freely so hopefully no damage to the bottom end. I need the socket to break open the head and see which valve it is. Probably going to just get another cylinder head and swap it out.
Hey man! Thanks for the comment and I'm glad it helped! It's really not that daunting of a task as long as you're well prepared and have the right tools on hand. I'll be doing more of these and was actually going to make a vid on the engine rebuild itself but I got sidetracked and the motor is almost back together already. Just waiting on rings.
That’s awesome. Actually looks pretty straight forward. I’m looking at getting an 04 engine for my 06 bike (same model) as my current engine needs a lot of work done to it. But putting another engine in, will I need to worry about anything? Other than new fluids, spark plugs etc. will I need to get the computer reprogrammed or anything along those lines that just an average joe can’t do? Cheers
I said I did this 100% by the service manual. Does it need to come out? Maybe not... But having it totally out of the way helps. I'd say that one is up to you... But it does say to when going by the yamaha service manual.
Thanks for the reply i will try with the heat tape. Another question; is it possible on R1 04-06 to check/adjust valve clearance with engine in the frame, it looks there is not too much space between frame and the top of the cylinder head, i will try to avoid engine removal if it is possible. And those R1-s engines dissipates heats allot, i had two of them so far, in city traffic at normal ambient temperature (20-25degC) coolant quickly goes to 105 degC and then fans kicks in and cool it down to 99degC , i never have had problems with overheating. At least it comes too operating temperature really quick compared to other bikes.
Yes you can totally check the valves with the engine in the bike. It's tight but it's not hard. Definitely... these smaller engines, which are also 100% aluminum engine blocks, dissipate heat pretty quickly.
Second time I’ve watched this and I was curious, was the fuel tank empty before you removed the hoses? I believe I have a blown head gasket and trying to tear it down to replace it.
The tank wasn't totally empty. It might have been below 1/2 a tank but not far below. When you remove the fuel line from the throttle bodies it shouldn't just let fuel out as there's a check valve in the fuel pump inside the tank.
Question for my 05 R1.. the coilpack harness has a female 2pin plug red/white and brown/red wires but no male connector (that i can see) shouldn't there be one? i assume its an important plug.. (bought the bike recently/rebuilding it currently)
If the wiring loom is intact then the end that plugs into the coil will be there. Coil goes does onto the spark plug. Wire plugs into coil. If the bike isn't together try laying the wiring loom out on a table the way it should go into the bike and find the leads that are for the coils. There is one for each.
I need some advice regarding to my 2004 R1, i service the bike myself, bought it 6 months ago, before 1500km (now 45200km) changed oil and filter, spark plugs, coolant, repaired starter motor (new brushes), adjusted TB intake vacuum. Engine runs smooth and pulls strong without any hickups, starts cold and hot without problems. The problem is when i start the bike and take it to warm at working temperature and higher (fans kicks in) without riding it and then shut it down it starts without problems, when cooled down a little (70 deg C or so) it also starts at once without problems. BUT when i ride it for i while and then shut it down and let it cool down a little (70 deg C or so 5-10 min.) it WONT start at once, starter motor is cranking with normal speed but it takes 3-5 seconds to turn off the fuel light and start the engine. Another thing, when i ride it for a while, shut it down and start it instantly there is no problem. I dont know what to do, it is a minor but annoying problem and i cant solve it. Other than that thing bike running smooth, pulls strong, fuel consumption is normal, no abnormal mechanical noises from engine.
Start with checking fuel lines to see if they might be in a spot that's getting too hot. Kind of sounds like vapor locking to me. You can try a little heat tape around the fuel lines and see if that helps.
You might be able to make one with the right size bolt head and a couple of nuts. And not necessarily always have to remove the flywheel. Pretty sure you don't have to.
Yes... Almost exactly the same. Throttle body can stay on but it may get in the way when pulling the engine out of the frame, which is why it's recommended to remove them. Super quick to pull them and set aside.
Hi sir,my r1 have a problem with timing chain,do i have to get down the engine or not to replace timing chain?sorry my english not good,hope u reply my comment,tq 😊
Yeah buddy.... if you have to replace the timing chain you have to take apart the entire engine. But.... if you have to replace a timing chain I would hope it didn't break while it was running... that will have cause much more damage and problems.
@@MotoMedic never go to sepang to watch gp motor🤣,i just repair normal Motor here,my friend the owner of yahama r1,so the bike have problem with riley starter and then i replace after the bike running i find out timing chain got a bit noise thats why i ask u sir coz u got more experience...
The engine has spun a main bearing. The owner noticed a knock and caught it early. New crankshaft and main bearings as well as new rings and the bike has been on the road since!
I just bought a salvaged 06 r1, no codes and fuel pump button wont make it prime and starter button doesnt work. If you were me what would you do? I know using a volt meter will help to determine if everything is getting proper elextric but if push were to come to shove and i cant figure it out do u think it would be best to get a new main wiring harness, injector harness, spark plug harness (it has a splice) and light harness and rewire the whole bike? I can get it all on ebay for under 200. The wiring harness has corrosion in alot of random plugs, including the fuse box and even the 15a main fuse had some corrosion. What would be your approach if i can find it out without replacing everything? Thanks man
Starting at the battery, make sure you're getting main power to the bike. There's a 30amp fuse on the starter relay. Assuming that is good the bike should be getting power when you turn the key to 'on'. If there are no dash lights, check that fuse first. I'd start with cleaning every connection. If there aren't any spots that the harness looks like it's been chewed through by rodents or spliced into by tweakers trying to add fog lights or something lol then you'll be OK to assume the harness is OK. Switches get dirty over time. Check kickstand switch, clutch switch, key switch, on/off switch. Anything in that main line.
@@MotoMedic thanks for the reply, and the only splice i can find is up by the headlights where the headlight loom connects to the main harness. Theres 2 wires that are spliced. Im gonna be doing some testing tomorrow ill get back with you. Thanks again man.
@@MotoMedic looks like im in the same boat as you. Hooked up everything with a new battery, everything powered on, ran for 3 secs and made a weird noise during that duration and also spit coolant out the exhaust so im guessing a blown head gasket. Me and my buddy are gonna rebuild the top end and hope for the best. I hope the block isnt cracked. One question, where did you get your engine rebuild kit at? Thanks alot.
@@bobbylabony4398 All OEM parts. I'm a shop and have distributors for OEM parts. Each rebuild is different so it's not always a cut and dry case of getting the same parts in order. But the main things for a top end that I always make sure of.... Base and head gasket, valve cover gasket, any new seals. (other misc parts as well). If you're getting coolant out the exhaust it's almost certain you've got a blown head gasket. When I do a top end I usually pull the cylinders as well and change the base/cylinder gasket, piston and rings I might change depending on condition. You'll definitely want to pull the head off and check that it isn't warped (check the manual for how to do it).
Is it necessary to remove the oil cooler in the process? It looks like it isn't preventing the engine from being dropped, at least from the angles I've been viewing my R1 from.
That's a a really good question and I don't really know off hand. It's been so long since I did this job I'd have to get a better look at an R1. I do know that I tend to side with the manual most times just because they are engineers that designed the bike and if yamaha paid them to figure out the best way to do it then they probably are the guys to defer to 😁
@@MotoMedic Sorry to reply again, I've just remembered I meant to ask about the rubber matting that sits on top of the engine (which you had to fish out of the way in the video). What does it do? Is it insulation from the heat of the engine? or is it there simply to keep the cables in one place? Would it be bad if I removed it and didn't put it back? (Im turning the R1 into a track bike so im trying to save some weight.)
It very well could be. I've had the same thing happen. The impeller seals eventually do deteriorate and will get a little mix. However, if that isn't the problem then bigger issues could be possible. A blown head gasket will get similar symptoms.
The engine will come out as long as the bolts are out, but yes... Special tool for the alignment piece of that's what you're tailing about. Sometimes those will be pretty snug. I can't remember what size it is right now but when I'm able to, I'll throw a link in the description for the correct tool. Thanks for the comment!
Mines not sliding out do i need a jack to brake engine lose from frame i did this on my r6s and all i did was kinda jump a little on the motor and it popped out
Yeah it might be possible that it is just stuck and needs a bump. As long as everything is disconnected and all mounts and loosened it should be good to remove.
Google '2008 Yamaha R1 service manual''. The service manual is your bikes bible. Should be able to find a downloadable version of the manual pretty easily. It'll be a large pdf file... about 350 pages or so.
Did "he"? Or did I? It's likely I might have said a word wrong. Sorry.... Bike got rebuilt and runs great 2 years later. I think the work holds up. Sorry about my massive mistake of calling one gear a different gear. That said.... Keep in mind that most of my videos are for folks that DON'T do this everyday. Sprocket attached to the end of a cam is, in fact, a camshaft Sprocket.... Right? Don't be a dick. If you have a comment that's cool.... Or maybe point out the part you're referring to in the video and ask if I meant one thing or another. It's basic courtesy. Likelihood is that I inadvertently called it a cam Sprocket. Considering this video isn't about pulling the engine apart to repair the spun main bearing and replace the crankshaft.
Ahhh... Actually... Your hearing sucks. I called it exactly what it is. Countershaft Sprocket. Good for you though for hearing a completely different word. 👍
This is clutch! Straight to the point, no rambling...thanks a ton bro!
The majority of the video is great and all but millie is by far the best part. No question about it!
your enthusiasm is impeccable. lol thanks for taking the time to make this video. its very helpful
Intend to do this, fantastic tutorial. I have the manual, but your video broke it down perfectly. Hoping the removal won't be so bad, as the swing arm and subframe are currently removed.
Shouldn't be too hard. Have fun!
Thanks for the video and link to service manual. I just emailed the company you referred for the spanner socket. I'm breaking down my bike right now, pretty sure I have a bent valve. I turned over the crank and all the pistons are moving freely so hopefully no damage to the bottom end. I need the socket to break open the head and see which valve it is. Probably going to just get another cylinder head and swap it out.
Hope ya get it worked out!
Very useful video; gives me a lot more confidence attempting this. Thank you.
Hey man! Thanks for the comment and I'm glad it helped! It's really not that daunting of a task as long as you're well prepared and have the right tools on hand. I'll be doing more of these and was actually going to make a vid on the engine rebuild itself but I got sidetracked and the motor is almost back together already. Just waiting on rings.
Damn dude awesome video I literally done all this in 45 min flat
Awesome! Glad it helped!
That’s awesome. Actually looks pretty straight forward.
I’m looking at getting an 04 engine for my 06 bike (same model) as my current engine needs a lot of work done to it.
But putting another engine in, will I need to worry about anything? Other than new fluids, spark plugs etc. will I need to get the computer reprogrammed or anything along those lines that just an average joe can’t do?
Cheers
why does the starter have to come out if it sits on the engine? great video by the way
I said I did this 100% by the service manual. Does it need to come out? Maybe not... But having it totally out of the way helps. I'd say that one is up to you... But it does say to when going by the yamaha service manual.
@@MotoMedic ok thanks for the reply
Thanks for the reply i will try with the heat tape. Another question; is it possible on R1 04-06 to check/adjust valve clearance with engine in the frame, it looks there is not too much space between frame and the top of the cylinder head, i will try to avoid engine removal if it is possible. And those R1-s engines dissipates heats allot, i had two of them so far, in city traffic at normal ambient temperature (20-25degC) coolant quickly goes to 105 degC and then fans kicks in and cool it down to 99degC , i never have had problems with overheating. At least it comes too operating temperature really quick compared to other bikes.
Yes you can totally check the valves with the engine in the bike. It's tight but it's not hard.
Definitely... these smaller engines, which are also 100% aluminum engine blocks, dissipate heat pretty quickly.
Second time I’ve watched this and I was curious, was the fuel tank empty before you removed the hoses? I believe I have a blown head gasket and trying to tear it down to replace it.
The tank wasn't totally empty. It might have been below 1/2 a tank but not far below. When you remove the fuel line from the throttle bodies it shouldn't just let fuel out as there's a check valve in the fuel pump inside the tank.
Awesome. Pulled my tank today, no problem. Wish I saw this before I drains almost all the fuel from it. lol
I am an old man and can't find any information about where to connect a vacum hose coming off the ???carb??? and I am desperate to finish
Question for my 05 R1.. the coilpack harness has a female 2pin plug red/white and brown/red wires but no male connector (that i can see) shouldn't there be one? i assume its an important plug.. (bought the bike recently/rebuilding it currently)
If the wiring loom is intact then the end that plugs into the coil will be there. Coil goes does onto the spark plug. Wire plugs into coil. If the bike isn't together try laying the wiring loom out on a table the way it should go into the bike and find the leads that are for the coils. There is one for each.
@@MotoMedic thanks, i figured it out.. it went to the pair valve, its got block offs on so makes sense why there is no connection there
@@kaminari8481 👍 nice
I need some advice regarding to my 2004 R1, i service the bike myself, bought it 6 months ago, before 1500km (now 45200km) changed oil and filter, spark plugs, coolant, repaired starter motor (new brushes), adjusted TB intake vacuum. Engine runs smooth and pulls strong without any hickups, starts cold and hot without problems. The problem is when i start the bike and take it to warm at working temperature and higher (fans kicks in) without riding it and then shut it down it starts without problems, when cooled down a little (70 deg C or so) it also starts at once without problems. BUT when i ride it for i while and then shut it down and let it cool down a little (70 deg C or so 5-10 min.) it WONT start at once, starter motor is cranking with normal speed but it takes 3-5 seconds to turn off the fuel light and start the engine. Another thing, when i ride it for a while, shut it down and start it instantly there is no problem. I dont know what to do, it is a minor but annoying problem and i cant solve it. Other than that thing bike running smooth, pulls strong, fuel consumption is normal, no abnormal mechanical noises from engine.
Start with checking fuel lines to see if they might be in a spot that's getting too hot. Kind of sounds like vapor locking to me. You can try a little heat tape around the fuel lines and see if that helps.
great video! thanks a bunch!
Right on! Thanks for the comment!
Any ideea how can i by pass that special tool for rear engine mount,and is really necesary fly wheel removal for spliting the case? thx
You might be able to make one with the right size bolt head and a couple of nuts. And not necessarily always have to remove the flywheel. Pretty sure you don't have to.
Will this be the same for a 2007 r1 also I’m just swapping the motor into another frame so the throttle body can stay on right ?
Yes... Almost exactly the same. Throttle body can stay on but it may get in the way when pulling the engine out of the frame, which is why it's recommended to remove them. Super quick to pull them and set aside.
Is it more cost effective to swap a motor or drop it and rebuild on a bike like this?
It really depends on what is damaged, and how available a used engine is.
Hi sir,my r1 have a problem with timing chain,do i have to get down the engine or not to replace timing chain?sorry my english not good,hope u reply my comment,tq 😊
Yeah buddy.... if you have to replace the timing chain you have to take apart the entire engine. But.... if you have to replace a timing chain I would hope it didn't break while it was running... that will have cause much more damage and problems.
Tq so much sir for your answer,now i know thanks a a lot,love from malaysia 😊
@@mohamadazren6476 do you go to the Malaysian GP?
@@MotoMedic never go to sepang to watch gp motor🤣,i just repair normal Motor here,my friend the owner of yahama r1,so the bike have problem with riley starter and then i replace after the bike running i find out timing chain got a bit noise thats why i ask u sir coz u got more experience...
@@mohamadazren6476 you should go! It's so amazing! One day I'll visit sepang. I would love to. Hope you get that R1 rixed. 👍
Thanks for letting me know.
Where can you order a motor can’t find anywhere
Thanks for the DIY vid. I'm just curious what was wrong with the engine? Did you rebuild or replace? Thanks
The engine has spun a main bearing. The owner noticed a knock and caught it early. New crankshaft and main bearings as well as new rings and the bike has been on the road since!
I just bought a salvaged 06 r1, no codes and fuel pump button wont make it prime and starter button doesnt work. If you were me what would you do? I know using a volt meter will help to determine if everything is getting proper elextric but if push were to come to shove and i cant figure it out do u think it would be best to get a new main wiring harness, injector harness, spark plug harness (it has a splice) and light harness and rewire the whole bike? I can get it all on ebay for under 200. The wiring harness has corrosion in alot of random plugs, including the fuse box and even the 15a main fuse had some corrosion. What would be your approach if i can find it out without replacing everything? Thanks man
Starting at the battery, make sure you're getting main power to the bike. There's a 30amp fuse on the starter relay. Assuming that is good the bike should be getting power when you turn the key to 'on'. If there are no dash lights, check that fuse first. I'd start with cleaning every connection. If there aren't any spots that the harness looks like it's been chewed through by rodents or spliced into by tweakers trying to add fog lights or something lol then you'll be OK to assume the harness is OK.
Switches get dirty over time. Check kickstand switch, clutch switch, key switch, on/off switch. Anything in that main line.
@@MotoMedic thanks for the reply, and the only splice i can find is up by the headlights where the headlight loom connects to the main harness. Theres 2 wires that are spliced. Im gonna be doing some testing tomorrow ill get back with you. Thanks again man.
@@MotoMedic looks like im in the same boat as you. Hooked up everything with a new battery, everything powered on, ran for 3 secs and made a weird noise during that duration and also spit coolant out the exhaust so im guessing a blown head gasket. Me and my buddy are gonna rebuild the top end and hope for the best. I hope the block isnt cracked. One question, where did you get your engine rebuild kit at? Thanks alot.
@@bobbylabony4398 All OEM parts. I'm a shop and have distributors for OEM parts. Each rebuild is different so it's not always a cut and dry case of getting the same parts in order. But the main things for a top end that I always make sure of.... Base and head gasket, valve cover gasket, any new seals. (other misc parts as well). If you're getting coolant out the exhaust it's almost certain you've got a blown head gasket. When I do a top end I usually pull the cylinders as well and change the base/cylinder gasket, piston and rings I might change depending on condition. You'll definitely want to pull the head off and check that it isn't warped (check the manual for how to do it).
Is it necessary to remove the oil cooler in the process? It looks like it isn't preventing the engine from being dropped, at least from the angles I've been viewing my R1 from.
That's a a really good question and I don't really know off hand. It's been so long since I did this job I'd have to get a better look at an R1. I do know that I tend to side with the manual most times just because they are engineers that designed the bike and if yamaha paid them to figure out the best way to do it then they probably are the guys to defer to 😁
@@MotoMedic Fair enough, thanks for the reply!
@@MotoMedic Sorry to reply again, I've just remembered I meant to ask about the rubber matting that sits on top of the engine (which you had to fish out of the way in the video). What does it do? Is it insulation from the heat of the engine? or is it there simply to keep the cables in one place? Would it be bad if I removed it and didn't put it back? (Im turning the R1 into a track bike so im trying to save some weight.)
My oil starting to look like it’s mixing it’s over heats as well I was told maybe my water pump seals
It very well could be. I've had the same thing happen. The impeller seals eventually do deteriorate and will get a little mix. However, if that isn't the problem then bigger issues could be possible. A blown head gasket will get similar symptoms.
Did you use a special tool to remove the engine mounting adjusting bolt from the frame?
The engine will come out as long as the bolts are out, but yes... Special tool for the alignment piece of that's what you're tailing about. Sometimes those will be pretty snug. I can't remember what size it is right now but when I'm able to, I'll throw a link in the description for the correct tool. Thanks for the comment!
I added a link to the tool I have in the description of the video.
dspecgsx I removed with a flat screwdriver it work perfectly fine without the special tools
@@MotoMedicoh i need to remove those too
@@crazsmith4047 ahhh yes that would do it!
Mines not sliding out do i need a jack to brake engine lose from frame i did this on my r6s and all i did was kinda jump a little on the motor and it popped out
Yeah it might be possible that it is just stuck and needs a bump. As long as everything is disconnected and all mounts and loosened it should be good to remove.
Theres no like other saftey bolts behind the motor mounts
@@crazsmith4047 no... Just those alignment nuts that need that special tool. I did this video by the manual step by step.
What way do they come out
@@MotoMedicso is it just the two bolts in the back that u losen the flathead looking ones then it will drop?
Where did you find the instructions on how to disassemble it? Ineed this for my 2008 r1
Google '2008 Yamaha R1 service manual''. The service manual is your bikes bible. Should be able to find a downloadable version of the manual pretty easily. It'll be a large pdf file... about 350 pages or so.
@@MotoMedic ok great thanks☺
How did you remove the throttle body's? I have no idea how to reach those bolts. thanks!
They're sometimes hard to get to but there's a clamp on each one with a #4 hex to turn the bolt. Accessed from the top/front of the throttle bodies
You may even have to get to the outside ones from outside the frame. Flashlights help
Long Allen wrenches or extenders are crucial
100% yes
How did you or yall handle the engine adjusters
Loosen them?
I take off all but my engine is stuck on the lower bolt I don’t know why I remove the bolt but still nothing
It's got to be hanging up on something. I would guess it is hanging up on the engine alignment adjusters.
Moto Medic ok thank you if that doesn’t work I am going to hit with a hammer slowly
I follow all the steps but when I want to take down the motor get stuck
Even when I take out all the bolts
It isn't just going to fall out... You do have to work it a little to get it out once unbolted.
Does anyone know how long it takes to drop the engine out in real time ?
A guy just commented and said he did it in 45 minutes. I usually billed 2 hours. It can take less but usually about 2 hours.
Thanks .
I think my engine needs to be rebuilt.
😩😩
How much does the engine weight ??
Without putting it on a scale I'd say about 150 pounds. Give or take.
Did he call the gearbox sprocket a camshaft sprocket ? 😂
Did "he"? Or did I? It's likely I might have said a word wrong. Sorry.... Bike got rebuilt and runs great 2 years later. I think the work holds up. Sorry about my massive mistake of calling one gear a different gear.
That said.... Keep in mind that most of my videos are for folks that DON'T do this everyday. Sprocket attached to the end of a cam is, in fact, a camshaft Sprocket.... Right? Don't be a dick. If you have a comment that's cool.... Or maybe point out the part you're referring to in the video and ask if I meant one thing or another. It's basic courtesy.
Likelihood is that I inadvertently called it a cam Sprocket. Considering this video isn't about pulling the engine apart to repair the spun main bearing and replace the crankshaft.
You should produce a better video on this topic. I'd be happy to refer folks to yours.
Ahhh... Actually... Your hearing sucks. I called it exactly what it is. Countershaft Sprocket.
Good for you though for hearing a completely different word. 👍
Pal you are in the wrong place if you can’t handle a little comment like that I suggest you stop posting videos. CHILL THE FUCK OUT!!!!
Only 17 minutes sweet lol
Get on it!
@@MotoMedic we going for it this weekend.. thanks for the vid!!
Got it done... running now wasn't too bad.. Thanks again for the vid
Damn needed help with the throttle body and he skips it all
Well... This video is about removing the engine. Soooo 🤷🏻♂️