Hey, I read the manual about the numbering for the journals. Are you sure you didn't say it backwards? 🤔 I may be wrong, but if we look at the crankshaft as it is on the video, isn't the correct order from left to right 1-2-1-2?
You are right I said it backwards. That's why the number 4 green was the correct size on the plasti-gauge because the journal was a 1 not a 2 like a I stated. Also important why you verify it with the plasti gauge. Good catch 1 is on the left when the engine is right side up. 😅
@@DeWoodysShop Phew, good to hear I wasn't in the woods, as I'm building an 4C8 engine at the moment for my R1 RN19 "scratch" build 😅 I will make a series of it and will guide people to your videos. 🤙🏻
I have to say I searched youtube for a proper yamaha r1 engine rebuild and this is the best one, very detailed and going over everything. This series you can learn how to build a yamaha r1 engine from top to bottom without ever rebuilding any engine before...like me. I successfully rebuilt my 2007 yamaha r1 engine only thanks to this video. I had a spun bearing and buying a used engine was too expensive. I grinded and polished the crank myself at home using the shoelace method as well to fix the scratches on crank, but got a new rod since it was black from the heat. I then used this series to build the engine up. Thank you
Great job man 🙌 i have a 05 r1 in my garage well its my uncles bike he launched and tore up 1st gear plus snaped the chain and craked the block its got a 2"x3" access hole 😢 Am thinking on taking on this project so thats the reason i just watch all 10 rebuild videos i feel confident know since its a really detailed series thanks for taking ur time showing step by step 💪🙌 bike only had 16k 😢
Hello, Thank you for this tutorial. It was a huge help when I was changing bearings. I have a question: do you know what the big number 4 stands for in the crank? Can be seen at 3 minute mark on this video. Previous owner has erased and regrooved number on that place in my engine.
Watched ur videos, completely rebuilt my r1, sounds good fixed my issue but has a rough idle now and it didnt beforw and also my oil and coolant are mixing, is there any way you cna help figure out what is going on???
My guesses would be one of the o rings from the water/oil pump is leaking or one of the O-rings on the water pipe that goes through the case from the water pipe. Could also be a head gasket. But if it's only water in the oil and not the cylinders I would be checking the pipes coming and going from the oil/water pumps
@DeWoody's Shop also feels like it's striking something when it's idling but when I had it all apart it didn't show any signs of it hitting valves and the timing is correct
Hello, good job, it is helping me a lot but I have a question. When you put the new screws on the connecting rod and you have to tighten them to 15 nw and then to 29 nw, I don't see that you do the 29 nw. That is the procedure correct before installing the connecting rod on the crankshaft definitely? thanks for your help.
Yes on the 04-08 r1 the rod bolts are supposed to be replaced each time they get torqued down. But generally i will check it will the old bolts the finally assembly with the new ones.
Well if it's that cheap its probably worth it. Worst case you can just sell the parts. The 2002 is nothing like these though at all. It's basically a. Fuel injected 98-01 r1 engine. 02-03 only are like this. I would probably buy it personally if it were mostly complete. But that might not be the best decision for everyone
@@DeWoodysShop this would be the second bike I buy the has an electrical problems first one I bought it for like 200 but it was a 1988 yamaha 1000cc carburetor and it was in pieces only bought it to learn took me couple months to get running as it needed a whole wiring harness rebuilt which was a painful task for me due to audated schematics got it running and sold it for a profit never cleaned it up just got it running and I got no projects so that's just why I am looking into buying it just to have something to keep my hands occupied
Im currently rebuilding my 2005 r1. The main bearing to journal clearance is .0015” for all five. The spec in the manual is .0006”-.0015.” Would you be comfortable re using them? They have a few small scratches and small brown coloring from possible lack of oil? Thanks! Nice vid
I’ve installed new bearings since this comment. Still measuring out at .0015” purchased black because my # on the case is 5 and the # on my crank is 2 so 5-2-1=2 black. Since the limit is .0039” i feel comfortable with that. Just wish they were a little tighter
Thanks, and I’m sorry if you stated this in the video already. But can I reuse my rod bolts just to measure plastigage? And then if they measure out replace them with the new ones?
I can't remember exactly, but looks like about 10$ all in now by the time you ship a few. I order everything from partzilla for oem stuff. www.partzilla.com/product/yamaha/5VY-11654-01-00?ref=da0ca0c28ac9f2d572e2c0072b1924ea1646763c
Usually I start with least invasive repairs and work my way through troubleshooting. Unless there is a physical hole in the block. Then the problem is pretty obvious.
@@DeWoodysShop hey how are you ? Turns out I need main bearings I order a set took 4 weeks to get them and sadly it can’t fit can you help me fine the correct ones please
@@toddneckles5922 message me on Facebook if you would. Same name. There is a bit of a procedure. You will need to know the numbers on the crank and rod to calculate the size.
What? It does not matter where you start long as you turn it 150 degrees after the first torque number. That's what the degree wheel is for so I don't have to start in a specific spot. You can start anywhere.
Hey, I read the manual about the numbering for the journals. Are you sure you didn't say it backwards? 🤔 I may be wrong, but if we look at the crankshaft as it is on the video, isn't the correct order from left to right 1-2-1-2?
You are right I said it backwards. That's why the number 4 green was the correct size on the plasti-gauge because the journal was a 1 not a 2 like a I stated. Also important why you verify it with the plasti gauge. Good catch 1 is on the left when the engine is right side up. 😅
@@DeWoodysShop Phew, good to hear I wasn't in the woods, as I'm building an 4C8 engine at the moment for my R1 RN19 "scratch" build 😅 I will make a series of it and will guide people to your videos. 🤙🏻
@@GeneralBW thanks and I pinned this comment incase anyone else notices. Cylinder 4 (video left) normally on the right is a 1 not a 2.
Hi where can I find the manual for 2005 yamaha r1
@monochromeaddict3105 I just google 2004 yamaha r1 service manual then pick the one from the r1 forum.
I have to say I searched youtube for a proper yamaha r1 engine rebuild and this is the best one, very detailed and going over everything. This series you can learn how to build a yamaha r1 engine from top to bottom without ever rebuilding any engine before...like me. I successfully rebuilt my 2007 yamaha r1 engine only thanks to this video. I had a spun bearing and buying a used engine was too expensive. I grinded and polished the crank myself at home using the shoelace method as well to fix the scratches on crank, but got a new rod since it was black from the heat. I then used this series to build the engine up. Thank you
Great job man 🙌 i have a 05 r1 in my garage well its my uncles bike he launched and tore up 1st gear plus snaped the chain and craked the block its got a 2"x3" access hole 😢 Am thinking on taking on this project so thats the reason i just watch all 10 rebuild videos i feel confident know since its a really detailed series thanks for taking ur time showing step by step 💪🙌 bike only had 16k 😢
I have a good bottom end I would sell. Where you located?
Looking for a bottom end
My uncle ended up selling the bike am in springfield mass
woodys videos are really great for engine builders to learn from thanks bro... these videos made me believe hey i can do this
Instantly loving this channel 👌
Much appreciated!
Hello, Thank you for this tutorial. It was a huge help when I was changing bearings. I have a question: do you know what the big number 4 stands for in the crank? Can be seen at 3 minute mark on this video. Previous owner has erased and regrooved number on that place in my engine.
Watched ur videos, completely rebuilt my r1, sounds good fixed my issue but has a rough idle now and it didnt beforw and also my oil and coolant are mixing, is there any way you cna help figure out what is going on???
My guesses would be one of the o rings from the water/oil pump is leaking or one of the O-rings on the water pipe that goes through the case from the water pipe. Could also be a head gasket. But if it's only water in the oil and not the cylinders I would be checking the pipes coming and going from the oil/water pumps
@@DeWoodysShop it was 🤣
@DeWoody's Shop also feels like it's striking something when it's idling but when I had it all apart it didn't show any signs of it hitting valves and the timing is correct
Hello, good job, it is helping me a lot but I have a question. When you put the new screws on the connecting rod and you have to tighten them to 15 nw and then to 29 nw, I don't see that you do the 29 nw. That is the procedure correct before installing the connecting rod on the crankshaft definitely? thanks for your help.
Super informative video, keep up the great work brother!
Appreciate it!
So when you say the cap bolts need to be new every time, do you mean you have to use another new set after using plastiguage?
Yes on the 04-08 r1 the rod bolts are supposed to be replaced each time they get torqued down. But generally i will check it will the old bolts the finally assembly with the new ones.
@@DeWoodysShop OK that makes sense. Just got my 04 r1 project apart and ordered new rod bearings for it. Following this guide is super helpful.
@@caleb5962 The reason they "have" to be changed is that they permanently stretch some when they are torqued down to the final torque spec.
Yeah am familiar with torque to yield, just wasn't sure if I could use the old bolts to check the plastigage. Turns out the general consensus is yes
excellent video !!!
Thanks!!
How much side to side play should the rod have on the crankshaft?
Yamaha does not give one, just that the rods should not have any damage on the sides.
Nice dude!!
Thanks!
What do you think of this I can get a 2002 yamaha r1 8k miles but has an electrical issue engine cranks will not fire I can get it for 400 usd
Well if it's that cheap its probably worth it. Worst case you can just sell the parts. The 2002 is nothing like these though at all. It's basically a. Fuel injected 98-01 r1 engine. 02-03 only are like this. I would probably buy it personally if it were mostly complete. But that might not be the best decision for everyone
@@DeWoodysShop this would be the second bike I buy the has an electrical problems first one I bought it for like 200 but it was a 1988 yamaha 1000cc carburetor and it was in pieces only bought it to learn took me couple months to get running as it needed a whole wiring harness rebuilt which was a painful task for me due to audated schematics got it running and sold it for a profit never cleaned it up just got it running and I got no projects so that's just why I am looking into buying it just to have something to keep my hands occupied
Im currently rebuilding my 2005 r1. The main bearing to journal clearance is .0015” for all five. The spec in the manual is .0006”-.0015.” Would you be comfortable re using them? They have a few small scratches and small brown coloring from possible lack of oil? Thanks! Nice vid
Its on the outside clearance so if was me I would probably replace if I already had it apart and was in budget.
I’ve installed new bearings since this comment. Still measuring out at .0015” purchased black because my # on the case is 5 and the # on my crank is 2 so 5-2-1=2 black. Since the limit is .0039” i feel comfortable with that. Just wish they were a little tighter
@@frankiemarchese2978 the thing to watch for will be the oil pressure, long as that is fine then that should be good to go.
Thanks, and I’m sorry if you stated this in the video already. But can I reuse my rod bolts just to measure plastigage? And then if they measure out replace them with the new ones?
Also, that oil delivery pipe thats above the mainshaft in the beginning of the video, do I need to take that out and blow air through it? Or should I?
What torque does the meter read at 150 degree? .....
you cant measure it that way with a normal torque wrench
Great video are the head studs reusable on a 2006 r1 ? Or should I buy new head studs and if so part numbers?
The head studs are reusable. Only the rod bolts are one time on these engines I believe.
great video
how much did the new connecting rod bolts cost you?
I can't remember exactly, but looks like about 10$ all in now by the time you ship a few. I order everything from partzilla for oem stuff. www.partzilla.com/product/yamaha/5VY-11654-01-00?ref=da0ca0c28ac9f2d572e2c0072b1924ea1646763c
I’m about to start a 2003 r1 but I don’t know where to start
Usually I start with least invasive repairs and work my way through troubleshooting. Unless there is a physical hole in the block. Then the problem is pretty obvious.
😍😍😍
Am in need of connecting rod bearings i have the same bike 04 yzf r1.I really don’t know what to look for can you please help me get the right set
Why do you think you might need rod bearings?
@@DeWoodysShop hey how are you ?
Turns out I need main bearings I order a set took 4 weeks to get them and sadly it can’t fit can you help me fine the correct ones please
@@toddneckles5922 message me on Facebook if you would. Same name. There is a bit of a procedure. You will need to know the numbers on the crank and rod to calculate the size.
@@DeWoodysShop okay thanks bro 🙏🏽
Need rod bearing work r u in California
couldve been a great rebuild serie, unfortunately too much talking
That's the whole point 🙃. This entire channel is pretty much step by step engine build instructional videos. Maybe you missed that part?
Sorry guy,you torgued incorrectly,you still started a same spot not at 180 degrees ....
What? It does not matter where you start long as you turn it 150 degrees after the first torque number. That's what the degree wheel is for so I don't have to start in a specific spot. You can start anywhere.
@@DeWoodysShop false pal,that's why it's called angular torque, you are wrong!sorry you don,t get it,stop doing vidios!
Im doin a 2000 r1 motor now. The crank is alot different.
Yes, that's first gen. Check out my fz1 video its basically the same