This video explains the simple process for fitting a wall mounted fixed shower head to a stud wall. Shower heads and fixing boards available from livinghouse.co....
The tape was wrapped in the wrong direction before the video cut to the fully wrapped thread. The tape must be clockwise as you look at pipe from the threaded end. Otherwise the tape will unwind as the pipe is turned.
Every time the water comes on, I imagine that showerhead is going to flex. If so, surely that joint is eventually going to fail!? Looks hellishly wobbly. On a different note, I don’t quite understand how these rainfall heads work properly when coming out from the wall. To work as intended, should they not really be in the middle of the shower area, directly overhead?
Some of these shower arms have a flange that presses up against the tile how do you get the distance right? I’ve noticed the BSP thread is quite long is it meant to be cut to get the depth right? There is also a rubber washer and nut on the BSP male thread. Is this only if you have access to the back of the board. I can see very few people will have this access??
I also wish to know this. Why is it supplied with a nut and pair of washers like you could tighten it from within the wall! Even if you leave a gap in the stud wall to reach in, it’s practically impossible to do.
@@mattsmith4414 yeh maybe we are missing something? I found an answer to my other question and that is you put the wing back quite deep in your stud wall and then use a BSP male to female extension. They come in various sizes. I’m also going to use loctite 55 instead of PTFE as it gives a lot of flexibility when getting the alignment right
Even with tape, how do you ensure it is fully tight at the exact same time the shower head is facing the right direction? Each time I get my tape on and fitting fully tight, the shower is facing in slightly or completely the wrong direction. It seems impossible to get the 2 (tightness and direction) to match perfectly?
@@geesingh6675 thanks, struggling to find a reference to this exact problem. Even with cord/etc I still cannot see how to get all the various elements in perfect synch?
@@wendalgar2793 with the cord it’ll be even tighter than PTFE - so you can turn as close to the correct position as possible without needing to tight 100%. Hope that makes sense. I’m about to do the same job this weekend - it’s frustrating but you’ll get there
Hmm, i’ve seen the opposite stated by one of the main YT guys, due to the possibility of the joint popping open. This actually happened at my last place on the boiler system. Would have thought that compression is stronger, with a bit of paste on it!?
I wouldn't do either. If you're using pex, use crimp fittings. They don't fail if installed correctly and it's pretty hard to mess them up with the crimping tool and guage.
The tape was wrapped in the wrong direction before the video cut to the fully wrapped thread. The tape must be clockwise as you look at pipe from the threaded end. Otherwise the tape will unwind as the pipe is turned.
You are wrapping the tape backwards
Is that just an outside tap brass female fitting that the shower head threads into?
My arm wont screw in to the right position. It ends up upside down and shit
Every time the water comes on, I imagine that showerhead is going to flex. If so, surely that joint is eventually going to fail!? Looks hellishly wobbly.
On a different note, I don’t quite understand how these rainfall heads work properly when coming out from the wall. To work as intended, should they not really be in the middle of the shower area, directly overhead?
Some of these shower arms have a flange that presses up against the tile how do you get the distance right? I’ve noticed the BSP thread is quite long is it meant to be cut to get the depth right? There is also a rubber washer and nut on the BSP male thread. Is this only if you have access to the back of the board. I can see very few people will have this access??
I also wish to know this. Why is it supplied with a nut and pair of washers like you could tighten it from within the wall! Even if you leave a gap in the stud wall to reach in, it’s practically impossible to do.
@@mattsmith4414 yeh maybe we are missing something? I found an answer to my other question and that is you put the wing back quite deep in your stud wall and then use a BSP male to female extension. They come in various sizes. I’m also going to use loctite 55 instead of PTFE as it gives a lot of flexibility when getting the alignment right
@@Xander054 Thanks @Xander054 👍. I’ll give it a go. I’ll try and film it and you can all laugh at how I get on. Lol
How does a plumber install a support board behind a fridge recess for a new tap 🚰 ? Do they have to cut open the plaster?
How do you line the shower head up to point down at exactly the same time as the thread being tight?
Ditto
The PTFE tape is what allows this to happen.
It will start getting tight before you run out of thread.
Consider Loctite 55 instead of PTFE tape.
thanks for a great video keep them coming
Brilliant video. Perfect. Thank you
Even with tape, how do you ensure it is fully tight at the exact same time the shower head is facing the right direction? Each time I get my tape on and fitting fully tight, the shower is facing in slightly or completely the wrong direction. It seems impossible to get the 2 (tightness and direction) to match perfectly?
Use Flomasta Pipe Sealing Cord or equivalent. Much better than PTFE team and will be a good fit. Watch Skill Builder for more info
@@geesingh6675 thanks, struggling to find a reference to this exact problem. Even with cord/etc I still cannot see how to get all the various elements in perfect synch?
@@wendalgar2793 with the cord it’ll be even tighter than PTFE - so you can turn as close to the correct position as possible without needing to tight 100%. Hope that makes sense. I’m about to do the same job this weekend - it’s frustrating but you’ll get there
@@geesingh6675 I’ve been putting it off for 2 weeks! Hope you get on ok!
@@wendalgar2793 haha! th-cam.com/video/zVldUMImdm8/w-d-xo.html
Thumbs up. Very good info Thxs
now that is a good idea
Teflon tape
I wouldn’t recommend a compression fitting within a cavity wall. John guest push fit is so much more reliable.
Hmm, i’ve seen the opposite stated by one of the main YT guys, due to the possibility of the joint popping open. This actually happened at my last place on the boiler system.
Would have thought that compression is stronger, with a bit of paste on it!?
I wouldn't do either. If you're using pex, use crimp fittings. They don't fail if installed correctly and it's pretty hard to mess them up with the crimping tool and guage.
Or just use end feed and solder like a proper plumber.
Too much echo in the audio. Can't understand a word you're saying. Buy a wireless mic and clip it to your lapel.
That grey pipe won't carry enough water for that head
That's half inch pex or plastic, plenty for a shower
Of course it will 😂