I work in a reel manufacturing plant and we pound them in with ball peen hammers. It’s much faster if you’re working with thousands of t nuts per day. I can see how this method creates a cleaner end product. We’re making 5,000-10,000 reels a day, depending on the time of year, so we’re working with (on average) at least 20,000 t nuts a day.
That's fair! While this is the cleanest way, we can see how your approach with the hammers would be the best for what you are doing. That is a lot of T-nuts to install. Thank you for your feedback!
It should be mentioned that when hanging a shear load from a plywood panel, a T-nut is the only way (short of nuts and washers) to secure a load (in my case, a pipe hanger). A woodscrew is an absolute no-no in this case, or any case when securing anything from plywood, even a non-shear load.
Depending on the application, I sometimes use a Forstner bit to relieve the wood enough to allow the T-nut to sink just below the surface of the surrounding wood.
Same here. Forcing it down through the wood deforms the surface around it. And it is basically impossible in hardwood and plywood. I have used T-Nuts and bolts as stand-offs for leveling the router attachment on my tablesaw table. It's a custom built table for my Dewalt DW745 that was built with the attachment in mind. I countersunk the T-Nuts into the frame and used hex bolts to raise or lower the top in 6 places (3 along each of the long sides). The top is then secured to the frame with 4 sturdy metal brackets.
You can also use a Forster bit to sink the T-nut further, about a 1/2 inch. Then super glue a wood plug into the hole to get a finished look on one side with a super strong fastener on the other side.
@@AlbanyCountyFasteners was about to say it myself, but as i saw, it was already mentioned, usefull information if i ever gonna do a home climbing wall, so thanks for the information
I was today years old when I learned a t-nut should go on the opposite side of the wood instead of the same side as the bolt. I have hated t-nuts for this reason since forever, and I feel liberated now.
THANK YOU! This bloody wood bed frame reassembly has been driving me T-NUT(S) for HOURS! All I’d managed to do without FINALLY finding your video is get a couple screws STUCK...realizing I’ve done it IN THE PAST- and ALWAYS been driven to near madness wondering why the heck the screw NEVER goes in but a teeeensy bit into the (‘short stubby wood-grabby thingy’) t-nut! Ty so much!
You don't cover the sizing of the length of the barrel, Do I use a 1/2" long barrel on 7/16 thick material or do i use 1/2" long barrel on 5/8" thick material, or do I use 1/2" long barrel on 1/2" thick material.
Can I use this where hole is that is worn and the feet of my chair fall off? I’m thinking I can hammer ot into the wood. And then screw the foot back onto my chair.
Can I ask what the benefit of a t nut is over a hex nut? If it is flushness well the bolt it still protruding out so it's still not really flush. Thanks
The flushness is one thing, but the real benefit of the T-nut is that it bites down into the wood with its flange, which distributes the load better. While also serving as a way to use screws and bolts with machine threading in wood applications, similar to a typical threaded insert.
If you don't want the bolt to protrude, use a shorter bolt. :) I have used these on several occasions where I needed to bolt something to a piece of wood that had the backside flush against something else. I just use bolts the right length, and if I can't find one that fits perfectly, I just shorten the bolt slightly. You just need the bolt to grip at least the length of the thread size, i.e. if the thread is 3/8", you want the bolt to go at least 3/8" into the T-Nut.
@@MarCialRoman One of the great uses for T-Nuts is removable plates from your work bench. I install them on the back side of a plate that is the same size as my work bench. I make subplots with the same hole pattern and mount a vise, 6" bench grinder, disc/belt sander and they are interchangeable and store easily under the bench
I bought a wood bunk bed second hand, and it came with 6 t-nuts - any idea what the purpose and application would be in a bunk bed? I mean obviously to put the pieces together, but where would the t-nuts go, and do I need more than 6 of them? Thank you in advance!!!
We'd suggest checking the instruction manual on that one, we don't have a way of knowing for sure what the t-nuts are for beyond putting the bunk beds together.
Thank you! We saw an amazon review, someone saying they pounded their t-nuts in by the back. Another reviewer told them their mistake. We weren't sure how to do it, cause we were just going to pound them in as well. So glad you take the time to show basic instructions for new do-it-yourselfers!
The problem I am having is a standard m8 nut spinning in the timber (mahogany), I can see how the T-nut would allow me to tighten but it's also important that I can disassemble without the nut spinning, can I presume this would work ok?, I tried using Gorilla glue to hold the nut in place and waited for 2 days to allow the glue to harden but it did not hold it. thanks for sharing this video.
Yes, you can disassemble with a t-nut. While the bolt is still screwed, take a hammer and hit the bolt to push the t-nut out of the wood. You can then unthread the t-nut and re-assemble when you are done.
Thank you for your reply, unfortunately, the nut is inside two parts of glued mahogany, whilst I could hit the bolt to release the prongs it may not be so easy to put the bolt back in as I have no access to it once it is in use, I will buy some and try, again many thanks
@Tony Beadle - Not sure if I understand fully what you were trying to accomplish, but "riveting T-nuts" have an added function that allows the wood parts to be disassembled & reassembled multiple times with less chance of the T-nut loosening out of its intended position. I saw & read about these on Rockler's site. I realize you asked this Q 4 months ago, but maybe it will be useful on a future project. :)
Tony Beadle The but won't spin once it's fully seated and the prongs have dig in. We have hundreds of them on the back side of panels for a climbing wall that are permanently mounted. We remove bolts frequently and the t-nuts stay in place. There's also a version with small screws to hold it in place rather than prongs.
1:58 As Bob tightens the bolt, it grabs the threading of the t-nut and pulls it into the hole. I'm a little confused by your statement...unless you were referring to something else?
@@AlbanyCountyFasteners ok so I predrilled the holes and I set the t nut on the opposite site of the board and begin the screw. When the screw begins to catch the threads on the t nut , it doesn't pull the teeth towards the wood , it either just passes through and it doesn't move, or if I let go of it , it pretty much just catches hold and stays in place on the screw and moves away from the wood. I spent 3 hours trying every which way to screw that in and it somehow pull it tighter, but I've got to be completely missing something because it just simply does not work. And I know the hardware matches because they are from the same set and the wood is mdf so it's plenty soft
It's obvious that he only drilled a hole for the barrel - that's why he split the wood! The correct method is to use a proper wood screw and use it to countersink for the diameter of the T-nut by a few mm.
Ahhhh no . Use 1 6/4 less . Much tighter fit . Tap lightly with hammer cover with a piece of wood and pound it home. You do not always have access to screw in from underneath and as far as I'm concerned a waste of time.
Hi James, The hole size will vary depending on the size of the T-nut. You'll want to drill a hole as close as possible, but slightly larger, than the barrel size. It should fit snugly.
That would depend heavily upon your application. Threaded inserts - for wood- are normally used in situations where the fastener is going to be installed and removed multiple times. While both create a flush surface when installed correctly, you will get more pulling strength from the t-nut (because they can handle so much torque). For just creating durable threading in wood, either would be fine.
@@BoltWolf69 That will depend on the application. In practice, you would use a T nut where you do not plan on removing the nut. Where as a bolt, washer and nut combo is a fully temporary joint. It could be used in place of a nut and washer but if you place on replacing the T nut several times it will not work.
Thanks for the video, I gave it a go and I highly recommend rubbing the thread of the bolts with some soap, you then only need half the torque to get the job done. In my case the only bolts I could find had screw heads, so this allowed me to do it with a screwdriver without busting the screw head
Hi Joaquin, We don't recommend using soap as it is considered hydrophilic. This means it will attract water to those threads. We recommend using a lubricant designed for fastener lubrication such as these: www.albanycountyfasteners.com/Anti-Seize-s/949.htm
I have a question if you have a bed end ( or dog bed in my case ) with 4 poster short legs and I want to lengthen the height of 2 of the legs can I use a wood square leg ( which i've bought ) with a threaded bolt already sticking out of it , and drill a long hole ( to fit the treaded bolt ) in the existing dog bed leg , place the t-nut in the top then screw in the leg extension into it ?
Can you send pictures of what you're doing? We need a better idea of your application to provide any meaningful advice. Please send any applicable pictures to support@rawproductscorp.com with a description of what you are looking to do and we'll help as best we can.
Assuming that the threaded bolt sticking out the extension is longer than the existing legs then you could put a t nut on the top of the existing leg and achieve what you want. You would have to possible trim off the excess bolt that will be sticking out the top of the existing leg though when you're done and could leave nasty sharp edges. A far better solution is to use a wood threaded insert.
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Nice demo, but would really like to know what sized hole is drilled for the barrel.
Me too
so if I have a ⅜’ bolt and corresponding t-nut, what size hole should I drill?
1/2 inch
I work in a reel manufacturing plant and we pound them in with ball peen hammers. It’s much faster if you’re working with thousands of t nuts per day. I can see how this method creates a cleaner end product. We’re making 5,000-10,000 reels a day, depending on the time of year, so we’re working with (on average) at least 20,000 t nuts a day.
That's fair! While this is the cleanest way, we can see how your approach with the hammers would be the best for what you are doing. That is a lot of T-nuts to install. Thank you for your feedback!
It should be mentioned that when hanging a shear load from a plywood panel, a T-nut is the only way (short of nuts and washers) to secure a load (in my case, a pipe hanger). A woodscrew is an absolute no-no in this case, or any case when securing anything from plywood, even a non-shear load.
Depending on the application, I sometimes use a Forstner bit to relieve the wood enough to allow the T-nut to sink just below the surface of the surrounding wood.
That seems like a good idea for making the T-Nut more flush with the surface. Thanks for the tip!
Same here. Forcing it down through the wood deforms the surface around it. And it is basically impossible in hardwood and plywood.
I have used T-Nuts and bolts as stand-offs for leveling the router attachment on my tablesaw table. It's a custom built table for my Dewalt DW745 that was built with the attachment in mind. I countersunk the T-Nuts into the frame and used hex bolts to raise or lower the top in 6 places (3 along each of the long sides). The top is then secured to the frame with 4 sturdy metal brackets.
You can also use a Forster bit to sink the T-nut further, about a 1/2 inch. Then super glue a wood plug into the hole to get a finished look on one side with a super strong fastener on the other side.
Thanks for the vid! You should also add a search term for "climbing walls" as these are used to secure holds to climbing faces on plywood.
We'll keep that in mind! Thank you for your feedback.
@@AlbanyCountyFasteners was about to say it myself, but as i saw, it was already mentioned, usefull information if i ever gonna do a home climbing wall, so thanks for the information
Hahah that’s why I’m here
I was today years old when I learned a t-nut should go on the opposite side of the wood instead of the same side as the bolt. I have hated t-nuts for this reason since forever, and I feel liberated now.
Too funny!
Hi. Just curious, why does it make a difference which way the bolt goes in?
@@adamthewoodworker2571as in the video, the bolt is pulling the t-nut to claw the wood in the middle, so it isn't going anywhere
THANK YOU! This bloody wood bed frame reassembly has been driving me T-NUT(S) for HOURS! All I’d managed to do without FINALLY finding your video is get a couple screws STUCK...realizing I’ve done it IN THE PAST- and ALWAYS been driven to near madness wondering why the heck the screw NEVER goes in but a teeeensy bit into the (‘short stubby wood-grabby thingy’) t-nut! Ty so much!
You don't cover the sizing of the length of the barrel, Do I use a 1/2" long barrel on 7/16 thick material or do i use 1/2" long barrel on 5/8" thick material, or do I use 1/2" long barrel on 1/2" thick material.
Thanks. We screwed the pooch on this one.
You're welcome! Thank you for your feedback.
nice video, thank you for educating me my friend I will
You're welcome! Thank you for your feedback.
Would be a lot better if it sat flush
Can you hammer the T-nut into the wood?
Yes!
Thank you very much sir.
You're Welcome! Thank you for your feedback.
Can I use this where hole is that is worn and the feet of my chair fall off? I’m thinking I can hammer ot into the wood. And then screw the foot back onto my chair.
Can I ask what the benefit of a t nut is over a hex nut? If it is flushness well the bolt it still protruding out so it's still not really flush. Thanks
The flushness is one thing, but the real benefit of the T-nut is that it bites down into the wood with its flange, which distributes the load better. While also serving as a way to use screws and bolts with machine threading in wood applications, similar to a typical threaded insert.
@@AlbanyCountyFasteners thanks 👍🏼
If you don't want the bolt to protrude, use a shorter bolt. :)
I have used these on several occasions where I needed to bolt something to a piece of wood that had the backside flush against something else. I just use bolts the right length, and if I can't find one that fits perfectly, I just shorten the bolt slightly. You just need the bolt to grip at least the length of the thread size, i.e. if the thread is 3/8", you want the bolt to go at least 3/8" into the T-Nut.
😂
Good to know🤛
can you hammer in the t nut?
No
I've never used one of these so if I were to remove the bolt would the T-nut would it stay embedded
yes
@@MarCialRoman One of the great uses for T-Nuts is removable plates from your work bench. I install them on the back side of a plate that is the same size as my work bench. I make subplots with the same hole pattern and mount a vise, 6" bench grinder, disc/belt sander and they are interchangeable and store easily under the bench
If you put the t nuts inside a box (so you cannot see the tnut) how do i know when to stop turning the bolt? Will I not be able to turn it further?
OfficialMartinB Turn the bolt until its snug but don't over tighten. You'll feel it when it's seated because the bolt will get tight.
is There a machine that can pull the T nut down
thanks sir
You're welcome! Thank you for your feedback.
Thanks for the instructions!
Very helpful! Thanks!
What if you don’t have access to the opposite side? Is there a anchor for that scenario?
A threaded or press in insert
Thanks from Mexico
- Thanx a multimillion for the demo & explanation. This is a very useful appliance to have in a workshop.
I bought a wood bunk bed second hand, and it came with 6 t-nuts - any idea what the purpose and application would be in a bunk bed? I mean obviously to put the pieces together, but where would the t-nuts go, and do I need more than 6 of them?
Thank you in advance!!!
We'd suggest checking the instruction manual on that one, we don't have a way of knowing for sure what the t-nuts are for beyond putting the bunk beds together.
Thanks!!
5
Thank you! We saw an amazon review, someone saying they pounded their t-nuts in by the back. Another reviewer told them their mistake. We weren't sure how to do it, cause we were just going to pound them in as well. So glad you take the time to show basic instructions for new do-it-yourselfers!
Use a furniture screw instead. Resist pounding
Came to the comments to make sure I wasn't the only one who was planning to bang it in with a hammer. Lol.
The problem I am having is a standard m8 nut spinning in the timber (mahogany), I can see how the T-nut would allow me to tighten but it's also important that I can disassemble without the nut spinning, can I presume this would work ok?, I tried using Gorilla glue to hold the nut in place and waited for 2 days to allow the glue to harden but it did not hold it. thanks for sharing this video.
Yes, you can disassemble with a t-nut. While the bolt is still screwed, take a hammer and hit the bolt to push the t-nut out of the wood. You can then unthread the t-nut and re-assemble when you are done.
Thank you for your reply, unfortunately, the nut is inside two parts of glued mahogany, whilst I could hit the bolt to release the prongs it may not be so easy to put the bolt back in as I have no access to it once it is in use, I will buy some and try, again many thanks
@Tony Beadle - Not sure if I understand fully what you were trying to accomplish, but "riveting T-nuts" have an added function that allows the wood parts to be disassembled & reassembled multiple times with less chance of the T-nut loosening out of its intended position. I saw & read about these on Rockler's site. I realize you asked this Q 4 months ago, but maybe it will be useful on a future project. :)
Tony Beadle The but won't spin once it's fully seated and the prongs have dig in. We have hundreds of them on the back side of panels for a climbing wall that are permanently mounted. We remove bolts frequently and the t-nuts stay in place. There's also a version with small screws to hold it in place rather than prongs.
Will this work with balloons 🎈
Will this work with a clamping knob?
Yes, a T-nut should work fine with a clamping knob.
Just force it in with a bolt first. The knob would probably break before the T-Nut is seated properly, depending on the type of wood.
The best tip on T-nut installation! Now I see the light! Thanks
nice idea for k.d panel connections
Thank you for your feedback.
Make no sense to me. They just push the washer out. Doesn't pull in
1:58 As Bob tightens the bolt, it grabs the threading of the t-nut and pulls it into the hole. I'm a little confused by your statement...unless you were referring to something else?
@@AlbanyCountyFasteners ok so I predrilled the holes and I set the t nut on the opposite site of the board and begin the screw. When the screw begins to catch the threads on the t nut , it doesn't pull the teeth towards the wood , it either just passes through and it doesn't move, or if I let go of it , it pretty much just catches hold and stays in place on the screw and moves away from the wood. I spent 3 hours trying every which way to screw that in and it somehow pull it tighter, but I've got to be completely missing something because it just simply does not work. And I know the hardware matches because they are from the same set and the wood is mdf so it's plenty soft
Thank You 👍✅
could you tell me if you used a drill the size of the barrel or a drill the size of the bolt?
Hi Sergiomng, Use the barrel diameter.
Thanks a lot!!! thanks for posting this video as well
You're welcome!
It's obvious that he only drilled a hole for the barrel - that's why he split the wood!
The correct method is to use a proper wood screw and use it to countersink for the diameter of the T-nut by a few mm.
Ahhhh no . Use 1 6/4 less . Much tighter fit . Tap lightly with hammer cover with a piece of wood and pound it home.
You do not always have access to screw in from underneath and as far as I'm concerned a waste of time.
Also good for wooden seats on mini bikes!
Thank you for your feedback!
Thankyou for clear demonstration i had a threaded rod and some nuts and i couldnt figure out how to draw the nut into the wood! 👍
Glad we could be of help! Thank you for the feedback!
Mr mackie mmmkay
Thank you for your feedback.
Super...Solid work...For wood fitting.
Can they split the wood?
The T-nuts themselves are not designed to split the wood.
@@AlbanyCountyFasteners Well then why some people still drill small pilot holes for these?
You didn't state the diameter of the hole in the wood required for the T-nut.
Hi James,
The hole size will vary depending on the size of the T-nut. You'll want to drill a hole as close as possible, but slightly larger, than the barrel size. It should fit snugly.
thanks for posting.
Thank you for your feedback.
These or threaded bolt inserts? Which one would be better?
That would depend heavily upon your application. Threaded inserts - for wood- are normally used in situations where the fastener is going to be installed and removed multiple times. While both create a flush surface when installed correctly, you will get more pulling strength from the t-nut (because they can handle so much torque). For just creating durable threading in wood, either would be fine.
@@AlbanyCountyFasteners Follow up. Could a t-nut be used in the place of washer and nut?
@@BoltWolf69 That will depend on the application. In practice, you would use a T nut where you do not plan on removing the nut. Where as a bolt, washer and nut combo is a fully temporary joint. It could be used in place of a nut and washer but if you place on replacing the T nut several times it will not work.
Thanks for the video, I gave it a go and I highly recommend rubbing the thread of the bolts with some soap, you then only need half the torque to get the job done. In my case the only bolts I could find had screw heads, so this allowed me to do it with a screwdriver without busting the screw head
Hi Joaquin, We don't recommend using soap as it is considered hydrophilic. This means it will attract water to those threads. We recommend using a lubricant designed for fastener lubrication such as these: www.albanycountyfasteners.com/Anti-Seize-s/949.htm
I have a question if you have a bed end ( or dog bed in my case ) with 4 poster short legs and I want to lengthen the height of 2 of the legs can I use a wood square leg ( which i've bought ) with a threaded bolt already sticking out of it , and drill a long hole ( to fit the treaded bolt ) in the existing dog bed leg , place the t-nut in the top then screw in the leg extension into it ?
Can you send pictures of what you're doing? We need a better idea of your application to provide any meaningful advice. Please send any applicable pictures to support@rawproductscorp.com with a description of what you are looking to do and we'll help as best we can.
Assuming that the threaded bolt sticking out the extension is longer than the existing legs then you could put a t nut on the top of the existing leg and achieve what you want. You would have to possible trim off the excess bolt that will be sticking out the top of the existing leg though when you're done and could leave nasty sharp edges. A far better solution is to use a wood threaded insert.
this is not professional,
LOL!