Thank you Skyler You made the tutorial very easy to follow and learn from. Your pace and demonstration was not filled with a lot of unnecessary facts. For a beginner it’s perfect. 😊
Nothing wrong with that if the bolt is going to be permanent. However, if it's removed and reinserted or loosened and tightened often the wood threads will wear out. More problematic in soft wood or softer hardwoods like poplar.
It really depends. It can be "iffy" for small fasteners in 3/4" wood but for larger fasteners where you can get maybe 10 or more thread engagements it'll work just fine. (especially in harder woods)
@woodworkingwithSkyler thanks for the lessons! I always learn something from you...I had no idea the t-nut was installed upside-down from the other...you saved me frustration!
made a staircase leveling piece of furniture to hold an adjustable ladder using 3/4 in plywood, end grain to long grain. I have both types of the fasteners you used but doubted either would work sufficiently. Your presentations are logical and well made, no silliness or baseless conjectures. Congratulations!!
Absolutely brilliant! T nuts are also known as captive nuts in the UK and most people just hammer them in but your method is a lot better. Ive used the inserts to fit adjustable feet to legs but never thought of using them to join 2 pieces of wood!
The t-nuts and the threaded inserts should both be put in on the back side of the wood for max strength. But your point about adding two part epoxy is a good one, I usually use JB Weld. In addition, some people recommend drilling pilot holes for the pins on the t-nuts or else you risk splitting your wood if it's not very thick.
I've been using these inserts for as long as I can remember and I have never heard of inserting the first insert any way but from the front and I have many of them in use and never have I had a failure. That is just your opinion only.
T-nuts are made to go “underneath” and that’s what she showed. There is nothing but the prongs holding them in so obviously (to me) you want the tension of the connection working for you 😂. Used the other way they’ll pull right out. Threaded inserts OTOH work in either direction bc they’re mechanically connected to the substrate via their course outer thread.
You're right! Don't ask me how I know. I just wrote the following comment, it will be at the top of the comments . . . Be careful when screwing threaded inserts. They can fracture into several jagged segments inside your piece. Removing them once broken, is challenging, and may be destructive. My advice is to generously wax the external threads of the threaded inserts first. When inserting, once you feel resistance, slow down. Turn the hex wrench a quarter turn then backwards an eighth turn. Don't rush it. Do it little by little to avoid fracturing the insert.
Getting the threaded inserts aligned can be a chore. I put a screwdriver bit into my drill press, and twisted the quill with one hand while pressing the bit down. It takes patience, but after taking care to start straight, it's straightforward to keep the insert straight. There's a better way. Cut the head off a bolt, thread a nut onto the bolt, thread the bolt into the insert, tighten the nut onto the insert. Then insert the bolt into your drill press's chuck. Press the insert into the hole in the wood, and twist the press's quill by hand.
Be careful when screwing threaded inserts. They can fracture into several jagged segments inside your piece. Removing them once broken, is challenging, and may be destructive. My advice is to generously wax the external threads of the threaded inserts first. When inserting, once you feel resistance, slow down. Turn the hex wrench a quarter turn then backwards an eighth turn. Don't rush it. Do it little by little to avoid fracturing the insert.
I think the artist here spoke in her channel that she first puts epoxy along the thread and then the insert. So If I have to put epoxy, how do I wax the external threads as well as put epoxy?
I always epoxy them. I don't recall ever breaking a threaded insert with a hex drive. If that happens, a screw extractor/left hand drill should do the job when it comes to extraction. Fill the hole with saw dust/epoxy putty. Drill, insert again.
Do you sometimes get an insert that goes in crooked? Or just doesn't feel right going in? Do you relax the hole to better fit the insert, or, do you just start looking for another new insert and give that one a try?
I usually use the drill press to insert the first one. The press will make it impossible to start it anything by correct. Just cut one end of the key off, insert it into the press, and turn the chuck by hand and the insert will go in straightt every time.
09:37 Hm.. but you can fix that with a temporary dowel, inserting it without glue, mark the center, countersink with the forstner, and remove the dowel afterward.
You kinda destroyed your credibility by not knowing the difference between a "bolt" and a "nut." Yes, you superimposed the correct terminology in post-production, but perhaps you should have re-shot the whole video. Just saying.
@@jigsey. So you don't think it matters to interchange nut and bolt. Seems an elementary mistake to me, given the relatively trivial nature of the subject matter.
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Thorough, practical, and clear. Thank you!
Well done, thank you for sharing. Everyone stay, happy and healthy. From Henrico County Virginia
Nice to see you back! Hope all is healing well.
Thank you Skyler
You made the tutorial very easy to follow and learn from. Your pace and demonstration was not filled with a lot of unnecessary facts. For a beginner it’s perfect. 😊
An excellent tutorial; thank you.😁
You're very welcome!
I have never used either of these threaded inserts. I just take a tap and thread the wood and and this method has never failed.
Nothing wrong with that if the bolt is going to be permanent. However, if it's removed and reinserted or loosened and tightened often the wood threads will wear out. More problematic in soft wood or softer hardwoods like poplar.
@@ST-0311 I concur.
It really depends. It can be "iffy" for small fasteners in 3/4" wood but for larger fasteners where you can get maybe 10 or more thread engagements it'll work just fine. (especially in harder woods)
Thank you, Skyler!
@woodworkingwithSkyler thanks for the lessons! I always learn something from you...I had no idea the t-nut was installed upside-down from the other...you saved me frustration!
Well done. I thought I understood these products but I learned a lot.
Glad it was helpful!
Děkuji za vyčerpávající recenzi T-nuts. Skvělý nápad
Thank you great educational channel.👍
Thank you, well explained.
Glad it was helpful!
Thank you Skyler 🙂🙂🙂
made a staircase leveling piece of furniture to hold an adjustable ladder using 3/4 in plywood, end grain to long grain. I have both types of the fasteners you used but doubted either would work sufficiently. Your presentations are logical and well made, no silliness or baseless conjectures. Congratulations!!
Thank you so much
Absolutely brilliant! T nuts are also known as captive nuts in the UK and most people just hammer them in but your method is a lot better. Ive used the inserts to fit adjustable feet to legs but never thought of using them to join 2 pieces of wood!
Glad to help
I just may have learned how my future computer case is going to be made. 👍
Well that explains why my T bolts kept coming out, I was putting them on the top 😄😄😄 using threaded inserts in future
I love your videos
Thank you @jm7247
The t-nuts and the threaded inserts should both be put in on the back side of the wood for max strength. But your point about adding two part epoxy is a good one, I usually use JB Weld. In addition, some people recommend drilling pilot holes for the pins on the t-nuts or else you risk splitting your wood if it's not very thick.
I've been using these inserts for as long as I can remember and I have never heard of inserting the first insert any way but from the front and I have many of them in use and never have I had a failure. That is just your opinion only.
@@davidcurtis5398 Same.
T-nuts are made to go “underneath” and that’s what she showed. There is nothing but the prongs holding them in so obviously (to me) you want the tension of the connection working for you 😂. Used the other way they’ll pull right out. Threaded inserts OTOH work in either direction bc they’re mechanically connected to the substrate via their course outer thread.
I virtually use threaded inserts in blind holes only. If I have a through hole - bolt+nut is just better.
Благодарю за урок, вы очень серьёзная женщина, улыбнитесь 🌼🌼🌼
:)
We used similar to repair threads in steel parts
Did I mention you are awesome?? Thank you for the tutorial and keep up the great work!! I hope you hand is OK :(
Thank you so much. Yes, hands are great now , just need to cover the incision for the next week or so to protect it
Sometimes the inserts can crack if you get the hole size wrong and use too much force to screw them in.
Nice tutorial, thanks.
Thank you @gnic76
You're right! Don't ask me how I know. I just wrote the following comment, it will be at the top of the comments . . .
Be careful when screwing threaded inserts. They can fracture into several jagged segments inside your piece. Removing them once broken, is challenging, and may be destructive. My advice is to generously wax the external threads of the threaded inserts first. When inserting, once you feel resistance, slow down. Turn the hex wrench a quarter turn then backwards an eighth turn. Don't rush it. Do it little by little to avoid fracturing the insert.
If you over tighten a sleeve nut will that strip the wood so the nut could just come out ?
Getting the threaded inserts aligned can be a chore. I put a screwdriver bit into my drill press, and twisted the quill with one hand while pressing the bit down. It takes patience, but after taking care to start straight, it's straightforward to keep the insert straight.
There's a better way. Cut the head off a bolt, thread a nut onto the bolt, thread the bolt into the insert, tighten the nut onto the insert. Then insert the bolt into your drill press's chuck. Press the insert into the hole in the wood, and twist the press's quill by hand.
Great tip! Thanks
He video and the insert instructions 😊
Try again, thank you for the video and insert instructions.
You are very welcome. Thank you for watching!
Wow !
Could we use regular gorilla glue instead of epoxy
Be careful when screwing threaded inserts. They can fracture into several jagged segments inside your piece. Removing them once broken, is challenging, and may be destructive. My advice is to generously wax the external threads of the threaded inserts first. When inserting, once you feel resistance, slow down. Turn the hex wrench a quarter turn then backwards an eighth turn. Don't rush it. Do it little by little to avoid fracturing the insert.
Great tip. Thank you
I think the artist here spoke in her channel that she first puts epoxy along the thread and then the insert. So If I have to put epoxy, how do I wax the external threads as well as put epoxy?
I always epoxy them. I don't recall ever breaking a threaded insert with a hex drive. If that happens, a screw extractor/left hand drill should do the job when it comes to extraction. Fill the hole with saw dust/epoxy putty. Drill, insert again.
Do you sometimes get an insert that goes in crooked? Or just doesn't feel right going in? Do you relax the hole to better fit the insert, or, do you just start looking for another new insert and give that one a try?
:) I can never screw anything straight:) so… yes, all the time
I usually use the drill press to insert the first one. The press will make it impossible to start it anything by correct. Just cut one end of the key off, insert it into the press, and turn the chuck by hand and the insert will go in straightt every time.
Another way to install a threaded insert is to use a bolt with a jam (jamb ?) nut, using your ratchet to drive the insert in.
Awesome, thank you
We used to call them, "blind nuts".
09:37 Hm.. but you can fix that with a temporary dowel, inserting it without glue, mark the center, countersink with the forstner, and remove the dowel afterward.
While that may work, dont you you think it’d be a better option to have the foresight to properly prepare and avoid extra & unnecessary steps
While that may work, dont you you think it’d be a better option to have the foresight to properly prepare and avoid extra & unnecessary steps
I probably would have learned a lot, except I was staring at her T-shirt.
always taper your holes with a coutersink then inserts will screw more easily,
Thanks for the tip
no sound ?
There is sound
Are they real? 😅
Really? You thought that was the thing to say here?
Reported
What happened to your hand ✋? 😢
I had carpal tunnel surgery 3 weeks ago
@@woodworkingwithSkyler elbow and wrist or just your wrist? Hope you are better now
@@GAROmx just wrist. Both hands
Doesn't know the difference between a nut and a bolt!
Beautiful rack ma’am
Yes indeed!
You kinda destroyed your credibility by not knowing the difference between a "bolt" and a "nut." Yes, you superimposed the correct terminology in post-production, but perhaps you should have re-shot the whole video. Just saying.
:) that’s ok. I can live with that
We are not here for the correct "terminology" scott
The Drake is a " Negative Nancy " kinda guy. The cup is " half empty " kinda of guy. The " I'm never wrong " kinda of guy.
@@groverearp2600 Scott is a buzz killer
@@jigsey.
So you don't think it matters to interchange nut and bolt.
Seems an elementary mistake to me, given the relatively trivial nature of the subject matter.
Show us how to make a “plate rack” - the sooner the better!
Very helpful…thank you!