I use threaded inserts this way (you should too)
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 4 ก.ค. 2024
- Threaded inserts are useful pieces of hardware that allow bolts to be firmly anchored in wood. Placing it is quite easy, although many struggles with this and use T-nuts and treaded inserts the wrong way.
In this video, I'll show you how I use threaded inserts in wood for years without any problems. With the simple steps for installing wood inserts you will see in this video, you too will learn how to do this easily and how to speed up this process to gain extra time.
BLOG posts with more INFO : How To Install Threaded Inserts In Wood - 4 Easy Steps, www.christofix.com/how-to-ins...
Article with pilot hole sizes for threaded inserts : www.christofix.com/threaded-i...
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TIMESTAMPS
00:00 Why do you need to use threaded inserts
00:34 Threaded inserts vs T-nuts
00:51 How to install threaded inserts
01:57 How to install T-nuts
03:04 Ho to secure threaded inserts in place
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⚙ T- nut M8 - amzn.to/3Ktr5sh
⚙ Threaded insert - amzn.to/4bGIY2b
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📖 Check this blog post for more information: How To Install Threaded Inserts In Wood - 4 Easy Steps, www.christofix.com/how-to-install-threaded-inserts-in-wood/
📖 Article with pilot hole sizes for threaded inserts, www.christofix.com/threaded-inserts-for-wood/
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Greetings,
Christofix
I love how short and focused this video is. It respected my time and got the job done.
That is great feedback, my friend! Thank you for watching my video. Greetings, Christophe
Yes, especially for not having those annoying 15-30 sec intro.
3:10. When gluing, cover the hole with painter’s tape then cut out the hole with a sharp blade. This will prevent glue from being smeared on the wood.
Thanks a ton for sharing this tip! Using painter's tape to cover the hole and then cutting it out is a brilliant way to keep things neat and tidy. It's these little tricks that can really make a difference in the final outcome and ease of the process.
I appreciate you taking the time to share this with everyone here. It's always fantastic to learn from the experiences and insights of fellow woodworking enthusiasts. I'm definitely going to try this out in my next project and I'll be sure to mention it in a future video too!
Do you have any more woodworking hacks or tips up your sleeve? I'd love to hear them, and I'm sure others watching would too!
Greetings, Christophe
Great video. No fluff, no needless words. I thought I knew how to use T nuts.
Thank you so much for your kind words, my friend. Greetings, Christophe
Nice video. No wasted time, good content. Very smart. Thanks.
Excellent, a videos that actually has practical information. Many thanks.
thank you for this positive comment, Milo. That is much appreciated. Greetings, Christophe
I always enjoy your videos and learn something too. Many thanks.
Thank you so much for your positive feedback, Geoff. Greetings, Christophe
Thank you for posting this video.
Thank you for taking the time to write me a comment, Randy. Greetings, Christophe
This is definately the best video on youtube about threaded inserts and T nuts.
Thank you for that lovely comment, my friend. It's good to see this after all the work i put in my videos. I will start making new videos soon so keep following me. Greetings, Christophe
Excellent explanation
Thank you, my friend!
Good information!
Thank you for your feedback my friend. Greetings, Christophe
If using the threaded insert with the flange needing a countersink, they will have more pulling resistance if installed on the bottom of the workpiece like a t-nut.
Thank you for sharing this, Ed. Greetings, Christophe
That's all well and good but I only use threaded inserts when a through hole would be unsightly. T nuts are cheeper and stronger in this application.
i agree, when sandwiching wood together as shown in this video, its more secure to either use a t-nut, or put your insert where the t-nut would go. whatever is shown in the video does not look like a good solution
excellent and to the point
I'm glad to see you like my video, John. Thanks for your honest feedback. Greetings, Christophe
Very informative thanks, have just subscribed.
Thank you my friend! Your support is much appreciated. Greetings
Oh great tips
Thank you, my friend.
I guess I knew all that but it was great to see it all in one place; thanks.
Thank you so much for your kind words! I'm glad you found the video helpful. Since you're already familiar with using threaded inserts, I'm curious to know if you have any specific tips or tricks that you've discovered along the way. It's always great to learn from the experiences of others in the community. Also, is there any other topic related to woodworking or DIY projects that you'd like to see covered in future videos? I'm always looking for new ideas to explore and share!
@christofix I do like the treaded inserts better if the type of wood is appropriate, since it’s really just more aggressive threads than just running the bolt directly into the pre-drilled hole. That is, I don’t think using an insert is appropriate for say pine or some sort of particle board.
Great point about the suitability of threaded inserts with different wood types. It's a crucial aspect that often gets overlooked. Your thoughts actually align with some of my past experiences, especially when handling softer woods. Thanks for highlighting this - it's insights like yours that enrich our community!
Hello! Thank you for the great video!
May I ask a question? Could I use a T-nut on the back of stepped drywall+plywood access panel in the wall, and use the T-nut as a means of tightening it to the wall?
I was thinking of adding one to each of the 4 corners, to help compress a rubber gasket placed between the materials
Thank you for your time!
Hello there!
First off, thank you so much for your kind words and for watching the video! I'm thrilled to hear you found it helpful.
Regarding your question about using T-nuts on a stepped drywall+plywood access panel, I believe it's definitely a feasible idea. T-nuts could be a smart way to secure the panel while allowing for easy removal or adjustments when needed. Adding one to each corner for uniform pressure sounds like a solid approach, especially with the rubber gasket for a snug fit.
1: What is the thickness and overall size of your access panel? This will help me understand the load the T-nuts need to support.
2: What type of environment is the panel in? For instance, is it in a high-moisture area or subject to temperature fluctuations? This can affect both the drywall and the plywood.
3: What's the purpose of the rubber gasket? Is it for waterproofing, soundproofing, or insulation?
Feel free to share any additional details or concerns you might have. I'm here to help, and the more I know about your situation, the better guidance I can provide!
Looking forward to hearing more about your project!
Best,
Christophe
What should be the torque of the recessed(insert) nuts used in wooden furniture?
"No more rhyming, I mean it!"
"Anybody got a T-nut?"
Ha, well played with the 'Princess Bride' reference! I promise no more rhymes, but I can't guarantee the same for threaded inserts and T-nuts. 😄 Thanks for watching and bringing some fun to the comments. Speaking of T-nuts, have you used them in any of your projects? Or are you team Threaded Insert all the way? Curious to hear your thoughts!
Can you use the threaded insert nut for overhead application? I want to hang a projector mount to my ceiling but occasionally I will need to take it down. I want to just have bolts that I can easily add and remove as needed.
If the material in the ceiling is wood in which you mount the threaded insert, this is certainly possible. If it is another material such as Drywall, then this is not the right choice and you will have to look for other anchors. I wrote an article about this a while back on my website which you can read by clicking here: www.christofix.com/what-type-of-wall-plug-to-use-to-hang-things/. I hope this will help you, Keith. Greetings, Christophe
Nice explan
Thank you, my friend
I want to screw a removable fixing to the ceiling. I have 2x4 that will first be screwed into the ceiling and then the removable fixing will hang from the 2x4.
Will 4 threaded inserts be strong enough to hold up my removable fixing that weighs around 6/7 KG? Thanks
I'm pretty sure 4 of them will hold that amount of weight. Thank you for watching my video. Greetings Christophe
Hi Christophe. This video is super helpful, thank you. Question: I have T-nuts with the spikes around them like you have. I see you installed them in plywood. Will they go into a hardwood such as maple (or bamboo)? Thanks again.
Hi there, and thank you so much for your kind words! It's great to hear that you found the video helpful.
You're right in asking about T-nuts with spikes for hardwoods like maple or bamboo. These types of wood are indeed denser and require a bit more care during installation. Drilling a correctly sized pilot hole is key to prevent splitting and to ensure a secure fit.
For bamboo, which is particularly tough and fibrous, careful drilling is even more critical to avoid splintering. Sometimes enlarging the pilot hole slightly can make the installation smoother, but be cautious to keep the T-nut snug.
Here's how I usually handle it: First, I drill the central hole for the T-nut. Then, I place the T-nut onto this hole and press down lightly (or give it a gentle tap with a hammer) to create small indentations in the wood. These serve as guides for drilling tiny pilot holes for the spikes, helping to prevent wood splitting during the final installation.
Next, I drill these pilot holes for the spikes, ensuring they are slightly smaller than the spikes themselves. This size difference allows the spikes to grip firmly into the wood.
Once all the holes are ready, I align the T-nut's spikes with these holes and press the nut into place. This method has worked well for me, especially in hardwoods.
If this is your first attempt with such an installation, or if you have any more questions, please don't hesitate to reach out. I'm here to help!
Greetings, Christophe
Good job
Thank you for your positive feedback! I'm glad to know you enjoyed the video. 😊 Out of curiosity: which of these two inserts have you already tried in your projects? I'd love to hear about your experiences and what worked best for you. Sharing insights can be so helpful to all of us in the community! Greetings, Christophe
@@christofix I have use the little metal gadgets that get screwed in with a hex wrench. I thought they worked fine. (they cannot be expected to be as strong as a machine screw in a piece of metal!) I’m also use the inserts that are hammered or pressed or squeezed into the wood with the little teeth. I forget what the names are the various types. Also I use a lot of different types of inserts with metal. Thread Zerts, rivet nuts and things like that. Don’t know any longer but used to use Pem nuts.
I was in a hurry when I wrote ‘good job’ - but I thought your presentation was organized, thought out and presented well. And I’m a pretty big critical of TH-camrs. I pass out a lot of compliments but I don’t hesitate to point out negatives.
@@kenday7942 Thank you so much for your insightful and encouraging comment! It means a lot to receive such positive feedback from someone with your experience and critical eye. I'm truly honored and motivated to keep creating content. Thank you for your support! Greetings Christophe.
I can't decide if you're a better craftsman or a teacher. Let's just say... "both." Subbed!
To be honest, I have been teaching for five years, mainly practical lessons. it is nice to be able to share my knowledge with teenagers, now I do a little bit of the same through my channel and it gives me pleasure to see that it is useful to people. Thank you for watching my video, your nice comment and subscribing to my channel. See you soon. Greetings Christophe
Do you have a technique for dowel screws?
Great video. I have a tapered insert and if I drill the largest drill size to match the large inner diameter below the thread there will be too much play in the hole. It is an M10 insert, bottom taper diameter 10.6mm and at the top, 12.7mm and length is 23mm. What drill size do you suggest? Thank you
Hi there,
Thank you so much for your kind words and for reaching out with your question! It sounds like you're working with a pretty interesting project there.
When dealing with tapered inserts like the M10 you mentioned, finding the right drill size can be a bit tricky due to the varying diameters. Since the bottom diameter is 10.6mm and the top is 12.7mm, a drill size that matches the median of these diameters might be a good starting point. If this was my project, I would try an 11.5mm drill, ensuring a snug fit without too much play. What you can do is try it before on a test piece.
However, every project has its own nuances. I'd suggest starting with a slightly smaller drill size and then gradually increasing it if needed. This way, you can avoid drilling a hole that's too large right off the bat.
Would love to hear more about your project! What are you planning to use the insert for? Also, if you run into any more questions or have insights to share, feel free to drop them here. I'm always eager to learn from the experiences of fellow DIY enthusiasts!
Looking forward to hearing from you!
Is the outer diameter of the threads tapered as well?
common sense tells us that you want as many threads as possible to thread into the wood. So the hole should be as small as possible. But a too small hole gives too much stress on the wood, which may lead to splitting. Putting two close together increases the chance of that as well certainly if they go in the same grain direction. (Don't ask me how I know)
It is really a test and find out what works in your specific case. Err a bit on the loose side, round up or add 0.5mm if possible, to account for any local variation in the wood.
You might even want to drill a stepped hole. First drill a 12-12.5 mm hole with a depth of ~10mm and then finish the hole at 10.5mm. this way the to and bottom of the insert each go in a snug fitting hole.
It does increase the workload by a lot.
The inserts have way better pull out strength if installed on the opposite side, like the t-nut.
The mounting direction can indeed influence the pull-out strength, especially depending on the type of load the insert will carry. However, you must take into account the final appearance of the project. But if this is not the case, you can indeed do this. Thank you for taking the time to share this with us. Greetings Christophe
The packaging for the threaded inserts should tell you what size drill bit you need.
You're right, the packaging for threaded inserts typically indicates the necessary drill bit size, which is a great reference. However, it's not uncommon to misplace the packaging or have it wear out over time. In such cases, measuring the outer diameter of the insert can be a good workaround. Thank you for watching my video. Greetings, Christophe
I want to attach a leg to a tennis table made of particle board Ldf using this method, but I need to conceal the hole and paint over it. What are the best steps to do that?
Attaching a leg to your particle board table top using a threaded insert can be done in two effective ways, each ensuring strength and a clean finish.
Method 1: Using a Standard Hole and Concealing It
Install the threaded insert in the usual manner.
After attaching the leg, use a suitable wood filler to conceal any visible holes or gaps. Ensure it's compatible with particle board and can be sanded and painted over.
Once the filler dries, sand it to make it flush with the surface.
Apply a suitable primer, then paint over the area to match the rest of the table.
Method 2: Using a Blind Hole
Drill a blind hole (doesn’t go all the way through) to the depth that accommodates the insert.
Insert the threaded insert into the hole. Use appropriate tools to avoid damage to the board.
Attach the leg, ensuring the top of the insert is flush or slightly below the board's surface.
Both methods have their own advantages. The first method is straightforward, while the second offers a more concealed approach.
I did my best to understand what you want to do with your project and give you some inspiration how you can do it. I hope this will help.Greetings, Christophe
@@christofix I appreciate your generosity. You are very kind🙏
dude is literally the bob ross of woodworking
I use my drill press with a long allen key insert, to manually start the threaded insert in the hole. This makes it go in straight.
I find that when the threads catch the wood they tend to push the insert out of straight and the nut will no longer align right with the hole it was intended for. Pun not intended. Using the drill press forces the insert to go in straight. I do take of the load of the engine beforehand to make manual turning the chuck easier.
Using a drill press with a long allen key for starting the threaded insert is a clever technique! It's an excellent way to ensure the insert goes in straight, especially since, as you pointed out, the threads can sometimes cause alignment issues. I appreciate your tip about unloading the engine for easier manual turning - that's a detail that can make a big difference. Have you found this method to work well with all types of wood, or are there certain kinds that still present a challenge? Also, do you use any lubrication on the insert or the wood to facilitate the process?
greetings, Christophe
If you put both of the nuts in to the wood from the backside it is the best way. With the nut with no threads you might just as you say have to make a bigger hole first to mount it level with the surface of the piece. You can do the same wit the one with threads (and of course glue it). If you do it like this you make the threaded nut fit much stronger.
Thank you for your insightful suggestion! It's interesting to consider the idea of mounting both nuts from the backside of the wood. I really appreciate you taking the time to share your expertise and ideas. It's always helpful to explore different techniques and learn from the experiences of others in the community. Out of curiosity, have you encountered any specific challenges or tips when working with this method that you could share? Looking forward to hearing more of your experiences! Thank you again for your valuable input! 🙏🛠️
@@christofix in certain applications, one benefit of the front-installed threaded insert is that you do not need to have access to the back of the wood. So, it can work in very thick boards, or in the edge of a board.
Threaded inserts are designed for use where the pilot hole doesn't go all the way through the panel being attached.
For some reason I thought you were going to both at once and pull two boards together.
I understand what you had in mind, and this is perfectly possible by the way, but using one or the other insert is enough to firmly anchor two parts together. Thanks for watching my video and I hope you learned something from it. If you have any questions, please feel free to contact me, I am always willing to help you. Greetings Christophe
Can these inserts be used with mdf boards?
They probably can be but mdf is pretty soft so you’ll definitely want to use the right size drill bit, maybe even ever so slightly oversized so that the inserts don’t shred the mdf while cutting the threads.
@@SomeDudeOnline Thanks
I have tried it on MDF and it works, however, i cannot say what the results will be in the long term. Like @SomeDudeOnline said, MDF is pretty soft. Thank you for watching my video. Greetings
T - nuts are VERY good for the bolts that hold in BIG loudspeakers ... it is always a good idea to use Zinc plated types as unplated steel types can go quite rusty , making future removal hard , ( tried - n - tested ) ... DAVE™ 🛑
Really appreciate your insight on using zinc-plated T-nuts for big loudspeakers - that’s a smart tip to avoid rust issues! 🛠️🔊 It's always great to hear tried-and-tested advice. Thank you for watching my video. Greetings, Christophe
To make your life easier if you have a lot of inserts to deal with is to chuck some threaded rod in your drill press with doubled nuts. The inserts will always be perfectly squared up without you having to wrestle with them.
Cheers!
Thanks for the great suggestion! Using threaded rod with doubled nuts in a drill press to align inserts sounds like an efficient and precise method. It's clever to think about ways to ensure perfect alignment without the hassle. Have you used this technique often in your projects? I'm curious to know how it has worked out for you and if there are any specific types of projects where you find it particularly useful. Also, do you have any other tips or tricks up your sleeve that you find invaluable in the workshop?
Thnak you for taking the time to write me this comment. Greetings, Christophe
I'm guilty....I have used a hammer to install these t nuts. But in almost all of the applications for these...they were covered with a lot of foam. (Boat upholstery)
Good to know how to do these for applications where I won't have that covering. Thanks!
Nice to see you're inspired by my video, Jeffrey. Have fun building that boat.
PS secretly I'm a bit jealous, I also want a boat. Regards, Christophe.
@@christofix these were always for customers...the only boat I have is a load of debt! Haha! A boat load of debt.
My brother has a boat with all kinds of work needed. My father in law has a boat with no time to use it....
I have most of my time spent at work....haha!
When I use T-nuts, I'll insert it into the hole and tap it with a hammer so that the points make a mark in the wood. I'll then drill holes into those marks so that the teeth don't split the wood. Not so much in plywood but in say hard maple you definitely need to drill for the teeth.
I mentioned hard maple because about an hour ago I put 3/8"-16 T-nuts in hard maple. I first used a 1/8" bit but it was too small and I was getting some splitting so I ended up using a 5/32" bit and that worked out just fine.
Oh wow. I have exactly the same situation so what you have done is really helpful. In drilling the 5/32" holes for the spikes, they don't end up too loose do they? Thanks again.
I've also used this technique, particularly with hardwoods like oak. Tapping the T-nut into place to mark the spots for pre-drilling is definitely effective in preventing wood splitting. I've found that, similar to your experience with hard maple, adjusting the drill bit size can be crucial depending on the wood's hardness and grain structure. In my case with oak, careful selection of the drill bit size made a significant difference. Have you worked with oak or other similar hardwoods using this method? I'm curious to know if your approach varies with different types of hardwood. Thank you for sharing your tip, my friend.
@@philippeb4972 That size works perfect for the spikes. I did use a #4 1/2" screw on the side of the head so that the T-nut doesn't pop out.
Why is epoxy glue recommended vs other glues?
Thanks for watching my video! Epoxy glue is recommended for gluing metal to wood because it forms a strong, durable bond with both materials. When mixed, epoxy resin and hardener chemically react to create a tough adhesive that fills gaps and adheres tightly. This makes the bond very reliable and long-lasting.
Other glues, like wood glue or super glue, aren't as effective. Wood glue works well for wood-to-wood joints but doesn't bond well with metal. Super glue bonds quickly but is brittle and not great for filling gaps or handling stress over time. Epoxy's strength, gap-filling ability, and resistance to water and chemicals make it the best choice for securing threaded inserts in wood.
I hope I was able to answer your question, my friend.
Greetings, Christophe
i saw a youtube video where an insert went up against a wood thread in cheryy, and the wood thread won every time, really surprised me
Thank you for sharing this, my friend. greetings
I saw the same video. As others commented, he used the wrong type of insert for his test. Threaded inserts come with coarse exterior threads and with fine exterior threads. The coarse-threaded inserts, such as those used in the video, are for use with softer materials -- like MDF or pine. The fine-threaded inserts are for use in hardwoods, such as cherry. So, what his tests actually showed was that 16 threads per inch hold better than 4 threads per inch in cherry. That's important information, but it tells us little about the usefulness of metal inserts in cherry.
@@davidwalser462 l should read the comments on the other video, i was not aware of that, thanks for putting me straight
I thought you were going to say that you use a belt-and-suspenders approach where both types are used.
Thanks for your comment! I must admit, I'm not entirely familiar with the 'belt-and-suspenders' approach you mentioned - English isn't my first language, so some phrases are new to me. Could you please explain a bit more about what you mean by this? I'm always eager to learn new concepts and ideas, especially from different perspectives. Your explanation would be really helpful and appreciated!
@@christofix Sure. I'm being somewhat comical here though. Imagine holding your pants up with a belt or with suspenders. Now imagine that you want to make absolutely certain your pants won't fall off so you use both. So in your situation it would be one insert on either side of the wood. The only drawback would be making the threads align but I think that would sort itself out anyway. Your thumbnail shows both on the same bolt but in the wrong orientation.
@@dougcox835 Thanks so much for clarifying that for me! Your analogy with the belt and suspenders really helped me grasp the concept - it’s quite humorous yet so effective. I can see how using both methods in woodworking would provide extra security, just like using both a belt and suspenders would ensure your pants stay firmly in place. I appreciate your insight on the possible drawback regarding thread alignment. It's an aspect I hadn't considered deeply, but you're right, it should work itself out in the end. I'll certainly keep this in mind for my future projects. Thanks again for sharing your perspective - it's always enriching to learn from others' experiences and ideas. Keep the great comments coming! 👍🛠
Also, there are two types of threaded inserts, with continuous thread and with "chopped" thread. Chopped thread ones are meant for particle boards etc. and use much smaller pilot hole in comparison and are not meant for very high forces nor for solid wood or plywood. The continuous thread ones are much stronger and usually have deeper threads, thus they can be installed in solid wood and in plywood and will stay there very well. But regardless they SHOULD BE EPOXIED IN PLACE.
Wood glue does not grip them properly, CA glue is way too brittle.
Thanks for highlighting the differences between continuous thread and chopped thread inserts. Your insights about their appropriate applications and installation methods are spot on. The distinction is crucial, especially when working with different materials like particle boards versus solid wood or plywood. I agree that epoxy is the best choice for securing inserts due to its strength and durability. Wood glue and CA glue definitely have their limitations in this context. Do you have a preferred brand or type of epoxy that you've found works best for this purpose? Also, have you encountered any challenges when removing or replacing inserts that have been epoxied in place?
@@christofixno real preference. The basic one that you can get off the shelf in two syringes is OK if you make a few. Gets expensive obviously if you plan to make hundreds :)
If you need to replace an insert that's been epoxied, you usually need to remove wood around it along with the insert, then glue a plug and redo hole and add new insert... hassle, but there's not much else one can do.
Luckily i haven't had the need to replace epoxied insert yet...
@@Mtaalas thank you for sharing this, my friend. Greetings, Christophe
suman told us in cherry the bolt is stronger than a threaded insert is, here you say it's weaker. which one of you is right?
video S4SnrbGwGpI
Thanks for pointing out this interesting discussion! The strength of a bolt connection can indeed vary based on the application and frequency of use. When someone suggests that a bolt is stronger than a threaded insert, it often applies to situations where the bolt is placed once and not frequently removed. In these cases, direct threading into the wood might suffice.
However, as you've noticed, when bolts need to be removed or adjusted regularly, threading directly into the wood can lead to wear and damage over time, weakening the connection. This is where T-nuts or threaded inserts come in handy. They not only provide a more durable solution but also save time compared to creating threads in the wood for each bolt.
In summary, both methods have their place: direct threading for one-time, less dynamic setups, and T-nuts or inserts for applications with more movement or stress on the bolt. I appreciate your curiosity and engagement in exploring these details! It's what makes the DIY community so enriching. 😊🛠️
I hope this will answer your question.
Greetings, Christophe
An issue I see with the threaded inserts is that the metal most of them are made from self-destructs in 15 years or so.
Thanks for raising an important point about the life of threaded inserts. You're right that the longevity of these components can be an issue, especially considering that many components are made of metals that may not stand the test of time. I'm curious: in what situation have you encountered this? Was this indoors or not and if so was this a heated or unheated room? And if you have any experience or tips about prolonging their lives, I'd love to hear more. Your insights can be very valuable to our community!
@christofix Licensed electrician for more than 50 years, certified auto mechanic almost 30 years, maintenance manager for major retailer 28 years, extensive experience in various other fields, including military experimental weapons contracts. (Yeah, I usually worked two full-time jobs at a time. Sometimes more. Retired now, but in the 1950s I was dipping electrical connections in liquid solder and packing plumbing joints with oakum and pouring lead. My experience goes back a long way.)
With industrial construction contracts, we often see specifications that require steel conduit fittings and incidental hardware like straps, because the buildings may have a 60 year design. Residential construction usually has a 20 year design, and often only 10 year. The cast fittings turn to dust within 60 years, but start to lose structural strength within 10 at best. After 30 years at most, all flexibility is lost, and any cast fitting must be discarded instead of reused.
@@jayztoob thank you for sharing your extensive experience and insights. Your detailed explanation about the longevity of construction materials in different settings is highly valuable and greatly appreciated.
As someone who worked with these hardware, I would advise beginners to try and use the T-nuts FIRST, and stick with it. As you can see in the video, the installation process is way easier than the threaded insert.
I too use threaded inserts but the success rate of using it is lower than T-nuts in general. Maybe not the best looking but I prefer function over aesthetics.
Or maybe I just suck using threaded inserts 😅
Thank you for sharing your experience and insights! It's valuable to hear from someone who has hands-on experience with both T-nuts and threaded inserts. I completely understand prioritizing function over aesthetics. Everyone has their preferences, and it's all about finding what works best for each individual. Your feedback will undoubtedly help beginners make informed decisions. Greetings, Christophe.
It depends on the application. Tee nuts are a good choice when the bolt can pass right through both pieces of wood, but this isn't always possible. For instance, when securing an electric guitar's neck to the body, inserts go in the heel of the neck, and the screws remain hidden inside blind holes.
@@1man1guitarletsgo Absolutely, great point! The application indeed plays a significant role in determining the best choice between T-nuts and threaded inserts. The example you provided about the electric guitar's neck is spot on. In situations where aesthetics play a crucial role and bolts need to be hidden, threaded inserts are the preferred choice. It's fascinating how different scenarios can dictate our choices in hardware. Out of curiosity, have you worked on any projects where you had to make a similar decision? It would be great to hear more about your experiences. Thanks for contributing to this discussion! Cheers, Christophe.
@@christofix Thanks Christophe. I have completed many woodworking projects where such decisions were necessary. One of my favourite solutions was to screw plastic 15mm pipe supports to one piece, with a length of copper pipe between them, and then to fit similar pipe supports to the other piece, and clip the pieces together. This makes for a great, rigid but completely removable and hidden design. I've used it to hold an MDF bath panel, for instance. The technique can also be used to make creative hinges.
@@1man1guitarletsgo That's an incredibly innovative solution! Using pipe supports and copper pipe for a hidden and removable design is both practical and ingenious. It's impressive how you've applied this technique in various woodworking projects, like the MDF bath panel you mentioned. This kind of resourcefulness adds so much value to the project, not just in terms of aesthetics but also in functionality.
I'm curious, when you're working on projects that require such creative solutions, do you plan these out in detail beforehand, or do you tend to improvise and adapt as you go along? Additionally, have you encountered any challenges using this method, and how did you overcome them? Sharing these insights could be really beneficial for both beginners and experienced woodworkers alike.
Looking forward to hearing more about your woodworking adventures! Cheers, Christophe.
The majority of tee nut & insert uses I see on YT would be faster, more economical, & plenty strong with a properly threaded home in the wood. For uses where the bolt will be constantly loosened & tightened (like in a jig with adjustable features) the metal female threads will be nicer. But if your wood is adequate, & U use the right tap size drill bit (i have those sizes written on my wood tap containers), the tapped threads in wood work great.
Screwing into wood works indeed, but I have to say that the past has taught me that these are only temporary solutions, so I now rely more on a threaded insert. Thanks for watching my video and leaving me a comment, mike, you know I appreciate that. Greetings, Christophe
@@christofix might be worth checking out the video by @woodcraftbysuman on threaded inserts. I’m not sure his tests are foolproof but it does seem to indicate that bolts threaded directly into wood will be more reliable in the long run than using threaded inserts. Personally, I think a threaded insert is just a hollow bolt but you can’t get threaded inserts with the same type of threads as all bolts so bolts alone in tapped wood probably are better.
This is just untrue. Threaded inserts have threads designed for cutting into wood and more surface area for better mechanical connection with material incapable of sustaining structural stability with standard threads used in hard materials such as metals. As any woodworker knows, wood expands and contracts with temperature and humidity. Wood threads using standard thread geometry are inherently unstable in such material.
@@fantasticsound2085There's a lot of stuff "everyone knows" that ain't so. If I need full strength in wood threads I use a downsized drill bit w/diameter for tight thread tolerances. Threads like that in hardwood are substantial. In softwood, and if I need serious strength, I'd use inserts.
@@fantasticsound2085 how does a threaded insert have more surface area than a bolt in a hole that’s been tapped with the appropriate threads?
Believe it or not, an unthreaded nylon plastic insert insert is stronger in a closely drilled wood hole than a steel threaded insert, is less than 1/3 the cost, and can be removed and replaced later without damaging the wood or enlarging the hole.
Wow, that's a fascinating insight! The benefits of using an unthreaded nylon plastic insert, especially in terms of strength and cost-effectiveness, are truly intriguing. It's always amazing to learn about alternative methods and materials that can provide even better results than traditional ones. I'm curious, have you personally used these nylon inserts in any of your projects? I'd love to know how they performed in the long run and in what scenarios you found them to be the most beneficial. Thanks for sharing this valuable information with the community! Your feedback helps everyone here expand their knowledge. Looking forward to hearing more from you. Best regards, Christophe.
May be worth mentioning that a threaded insert can be used in a blind hole.
Great point about threaded inserts being usable in blind holes. This feature definitely expands their applications, especially in projects where a through-hole isn't feasible or desired. It's crucial, though, to ensure proper depth and alignment in such scenarios to avoid issues during installation. Have you had any specific experiences or projects where using a threaded insert in a blind hole proved particularly effective or challenging? I would like to hear about it and learn from you. Greetings, Christophe
I actually saw a video testing threaded inserts and found that a bolt will often out perform the inserts. In fact the inserts they tested were terrible
Your "Matrerials used in this video" links are dead!
Thanks for letting me know! I have fixed the problem with the links. They should be working now. Appreciate your patience!
Greetings, Christophe
Both inserts should be placed from the bottom side, because that is where they have their maximum pull out force. Threaded inserts pull out like a joke from the front side. Basic woodworking.
Thank you for sharing your insights about the placement of threaded inserts. It's interesting to hear that inserts should ideally be placed from the bottom side due to their maximum pull-out force in that orientation. While I understand your point about the potential for threaded inserts to pull out easily from the front side, I must say that in my many years of using threaded inserts, I've fortunately never encountered this issue. Your input is valuable, and it's always great to learn from the experiences of others in the woodworking community. I appreciate your contribution to the discussion!
@@christofix I had no issues either with placing inserts on the top face, for basic, low force uses. But when real force is required, ie. in threaded workholding tables, there is no other option than placing the in the bottom.
You should try making threads directly on wood, by drilling the correct diameter and then using a threading tool loke a die cutter. Especially in hardwoods, the bolt is stronger than the wood itself. In softer woods, you can go with smaller predrilling and coarser threads.
@@constantinosschinas4503 thanks again for your insights! I've heard about making threads directly in wood, but I must admit, I've been a bit skeptical about trying it myself. Your experience and suggestions, however, have piqued my curiosity. Thanks to your advice, I'm now more inclined to give it a shot in an upcoming project. It's always great to learn and try new techniques in woodworking. Appreciate your input!
Nothing new here, kind of disappointed, why not mentioned a few tiny screws holding the t nut in place?
Thank you for your feedback. I understand where you're coming from. The method I demonstrated is based on the principle that when used correctly, the t-nut should hold securely without the need for screws. However, I appreciate your perspective and will consider including alternative methods in future videos. Always great to have diverse viewpoints in the community!
Climbing gyms use T-nuts, not threaded inserts. Dead climbers make bad customers.
Thanks for sharing this. Greetings, Christophe
I'm not no wood worker but why not install the threaded insert from the back side so it's pulling its self into the hole and seating better vs it trying to pull out
In case you use a T-nut, this is correct. Threaded inserts can perfectly be used on top of the surface. I hope this helps. Greetings
Excellent suggestion. Of course threaded inserts are meant to be installed from the top, but I think your intuition is good. Putting them in the 'wrong' way would be much stronger.
@@christofixYou didn't answer jeff good's question. His suggestion makes good sense.
@@douglasclerk2764not in all scenarios, what if you are making a bed frame for example, you wouldn't want a threaded insert to be visible from the outside. And while screwing in the bolt would pull the threaded insert more into the wood, you would theoretically be spinning it counter clockwise thus potentially loosening the threads or stripping them all together.
@@TomWaitForItMajor Absolutely correct.
This is all common sense, but I will admit few apply common sense.
Thanks for your comment! You're absolutely right - sometimes what seems like common sense isn't so common in practice. It's great to have reminders of these basic principles every now and then. I'm glad you found the video straightforward and hope it serves as a useful reference for others too. Let's keep sharing and applying our 'common sense' to make things better for everyone! 😊👍
Greetings, Christophe
you didn't share any actual information in this waste of time
I'm sorry to hear that you didn't find the video informative. I'm always open to constructive feedback, so if you have specific suggestions, feel free to share.