OSB Ceiling for Garage: The Easy Way to Finish Your Space: DIY
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 7 ก.ย. 2023
- This video is part of the Dream Garage playlist on Scott's Garage. I am attempting to finish my 40 year old unfinished garage in six steps in six months. Creating a ceiling using OSB is step three.
I chose OSB because it was the more affordable than other materials. Up until this project I disliked OSB. I have changed my mind. It works great for a garage ceiling.
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You ran the OSB the length on the trusses, that's called 'railroading'. Sheeting should always run perpendicular to the framing and staggered for strength. People do not see sheeting or even drywall as a structural item but it is.
Exactly what I was thinking
yes - very strange...
Yes perpendicular. And you can walk on 1/2”. And I ran a 2x2 where every butt joint was so each sheet would get a full inch and a half to screw to on the ends. Less blow out not having to screw so close to the edge.
hooks are on the wrong side when using the lift.
perhaps, but it clearly wasn't spec'd originally to require the strength. Surely even railroading is going to add some rigidity for whatever it matters.
I recommend venting the attic. Cause you run the risk of sweating and causing mold.
I recommend painting the ceiling white, it will make everything brighter and a fraction of the electricity used. I also recommend white on the walls and the concrete below the walls.
Absolutely
Must be oil-based paint. It took 3 coats to cover the black lines.😬
I did that and regret it ! It just soaked up paint and it cover well !
I like the paint idea but for first two coats use drywall primer paint and let that soak is and completely dry before using expensive paint!! That should lower the cost!
Nope.paint it black if white the joints will stand out like a sore thumb
When I built my garage something like 35 years ago I did the entire interior in OSB. People told me it was a waste of money, but if I recall correctly the sheets were between $4 and $5 at the time, so not that much more than drywall. I had a nasty habit of throwing my tools when I was frustrated, so drywall was out. Ironically I got control of my anger soon after doing my garage, but I have always been happy that I went with USB. I put the ceiling in using just 2 x 4s jammed under the sheets, worked fine, probably not able to do that now. I painted the OSB a bright yellow because that was what the liquidation store had enough of, it was industrial paint, and has stood up well. I did all the electrical with conduit, and using the OSB made installing that way easier
I used it on my first shop 20 years ago and I am using it on a shop I am building now. I agree it is a good look and it has good screw holding for hanging items.
love it, I did the same in my new build. batter to anchor brackets to as well as no drywall cracking during the winter months!
Thanks for sharing your video, I live a few miles north of you and added on to my garage a few years ago. This is what I found out about attic venting. The existing garage had sheet rock ceiling and 3.5 inches fiberglass insulation with gable vent. Walls had .5 fiberboard with siding over it. The shop addition started with walls OSB with siding over it and sheet rock with NO insulation. Celling with sheet rock and prepped for blow in insulation steel roof with ridge/soffit venting. I left the wall in the center with a 48" walk through door. Time and money were why no insulation was installed to start with. Summer, the addition was much cooler with the soft venting. It was so nice that I reroofed the old garage and changed it to ridge/soffit venting too. Insulation (cellulose) was blown in attic and walls two years later and it’s affordable to heat in a Montana winter now.
Looks really good. Used osb for my 30x40 garage 20 years ago inside and out. No regrets at all. Don’t need peg board or French cleats, just a small nail or screw.
I did the exact same thing in my shop. My biggest PITA's were, I didn't take the garage door tracks down, and cutting out about a dozen holes for lights and receptacles. Oh and I did have a couple out of square issues where I had to bring the same piece up and down a couple times to make micro angle cuts to make it as gap free as I could get it. Not to mention putting up the plastic vapour barrier by myself before even screwing up one piece of OSB.
Great video regarding osb. I also did my garage ceiling with osb but I cut the osb into smaller sections so I could attach to bottom of roof trussess 24" oc (I dont have the drywall holder/lifter). Before I did this, I took the ridged foam I had left over from another project and cut to fit in-between the _________. I also sealed the seam connection with tape to stop air flow.
I worked my way from the outside wall adding bat insulation above the ridged foam. At the start, I made sure I left vertical room for the soffit vents to contine to function. This garage never had any roof venting so I added gable end venting at completion of project. This was a "backwards way to do insulation but I had no help and had to deal with the materials on hand plus a few I had to buy. Basically I worked off a lander instead of my knees in the attic doing the insulation.
Now, I can work in my garage during the winter without having to add a ton of heat. It's also so much cooler in the summer!
osb is great for walls of garages as well. As long as the garage is not attached to living spaces, you are fine.
Insulated garage doors are a must. Air sealing is more important than lots of insualtion. Venting your attice is a must.
Paint the celing and walls white and add led lights.
Nicely done. I did my garage 2 years ago. I used drywall because it is more fire resistant. I used batt fiberglass but probably should have used rockwool for fire resistance. I ended up with R19 wall and R40 in the ceiling. My access requires I crawl the length of the house, so your job is more practical. You might consider installing a 16 to 24" width of board atop the rafters for access from the ladder. You might check locally as to what venting is used in your locale. I added soffet vents combined with roof vents when I redid my roof (6 years ago) but we are in a warmer climate. I understand a closing louver vent on the outer wall with a small power vent at the house side works well for a small unit like this. When a garage is uninsulated no venting is required but it should be vented to local house standards. Like yours, my outlets are every 4 feet, a 20A circuit for each wall and a 3rd for a small ceiling heater. Once your walls are covered you'll want to caulk along the base. I had a lot of cold air infiltrating along the wall/concrete joint. I replaced the wind block seals on my garage door and covered with foam panels. Granted they are only R6 or similar, but better than nothing. Now, unheated, the garage wants to remain at 40 to 75 degrees if the doors aren't left open. I also cleaned then sealed and painted the foundation and floor. (The rough foundation soaked up 2 coats of primer and 3 coats of cement paint.) Floor paint tends to mar quickly but the garage humidity was reduced.
Looks good but I would paint the. ceiling white it would brighten it up and make it look bigger
Presently adding lights, wiring and ceiling to my 500 sq ft garage. Your video using the drywall lift and wood sheets was very helpful.
Should have run plywood perpendicular to the joists and staggered the seams. 😂
Absolutely.
At least he showed you how not to do it.
No need as there’s no additional strength added to the ceiling. Crossing the joists could make it easier to install but in reality, there’s no taping or covering of the joints.
@@davidwilken3584 So whats wrong with easier? Personally I like to avoid edge fastening as much as possible and by running the OSB parallel to the trusses, he has two fasteners on the edge of the sheet for every one that isn't.
@@davidwilken3584
ABSOLUTELY incorrect! It's common sense that running a board across a frame, while staggering the next run would lock everything together!
Railroading is almost like having groups of rows that could move independently of each other.
Yes, add vents, I’ve always used roof line vents with soffits but that’s me. Looks good, and looking forward to seeing the finished result!
Roofline vents are no good without vents on the soffit or the likes of. Roofline vents just under the peak are just half of the ventilation system...
First the vent question. I live in a northern US state and anything with a closed attic is (and I believe should be) vented. I had a shop (oversized 3rd stall) built a few years ago, and there was no question. I wanted an attic and it is vented. It is gable end roof, but we put roof vents near the ridge with soffit vents for the inlet. It still gets hot in the summer and cold in the winter as it is above the insulation, I believe it helps the roof life, and since I occasionally heat the shop it helps with moisture buildup. Now I'm thinking about finishing the ceiling in the older garage and I'm going to have to install the vents along the ridge when I do. I believe there are codes about how many vents are required for a given size of attic.
You asked about thoughts on the ceiling. When I did the shop, I used sheetrock on the ceiling. I then painted it with a gloss white paint to reflect light down to where I'm working. I did use OSB on the walls though. I really like that, because a can put a screw or nail anywhere I want to hang things. We painted the OSB too, and it took a LOT of paint. The carpenter that installed it put the rough side out (like you did on your ceiling) and I think that is part of why it took so much paint. In hind sight I wish it had been installed smooth side out. I generate a good bit of dust and dirt, and it is hard to get that dirt off of the walls.
The dust and dirt was my immediate thought of the rough side out. Over time, unless you use high pressure air, you will have build up causing darkening, and, if the doors are open on a windy day, the dirt/pollen makes it uncomfortable.
The real reason you should vent your attic space it to remove moisture. Any moisture gets trapped and creates mold. It will be cooler than no venting but you will not fight moisture issues. Make sure your vents have screen to prevent bugs, bees and wasps.
👍 I did almost the exact same thing in my garage and like it very much.
I framed in one side of my 35 x 45 RV steel building. I used 7/16” OSB. I did it properly staggering the perpendicular sheets. Then OSB on the walls. Painted white and no regrets. I like being able to see what I’m doing.
Definitely add vents. You do yourself no favors having the attic roast. My training as an energy auditor 35 yrs ago taught me that (in Montana). Now I see all new construction keeping that rule.
I'm been planning to do this to my garage too since we moved in almost 19 yrs ago. I hope to get to it this spring.
I did the same thing in my garage, only I used it on the walls. I insulated the walls with R-13 bat insulation and used the OSB boards on top. The electric lines used were #12 Romex stapled on the beams close to the floor, so I took them all down put up the insulation and the OSB and then ran the Romex in 3/4" conduit about 45" off the floor which made everything easier to install. It looks great I used the other side of the OSB though, I like the looks of yours better. I chose OSB after pricing Sheetrock because everything is insane, and OSB was cheaper, I didn't have to finish and paint the sheetrock. I am 67 years old now and did all the work by myself. I plan on finishing the ceiling as soon as it warms up. I live in PA. now and it is the end of February, this morning it was 27 degrees. I used 1.5" Styrofoam in 4'x8' sheets that I cut to fit, to insulate the 2-car garage door with the silver side facing out to reflect the heat come summer. My ceiling beams are 10+ feet off the floor. I wish I could find the same lift you found. I have a couple of 4'x8' 3/4" plywood boards for storage on top of the rafters and that is all I need. So, I think I am going to use the same 1.5" Styrofoam boards on the ceiling, silver side facing the roof and install them on the bottom of the rafters to keep the heat in. I have no plans on walking on it, but I will make an access port so I can access the storage boards. I think you did a great job you should be very proud of yourself! The older we get the harder it becomes to do anything, it is always the same, everyone always says "call me I will give you a hand". But chances are they never pick up the phone. ALWAYS DEPEND ON YOURSELF., you will be much happier.
I did my 38x40 love it 24 years ago I painted it white work very well. In th spring going put up a 60x80 going do same.
Looks good. I wish more people would support their local hardware and appliance shops. Most are ignorant and think that the big boxes. Are such a better deal. And that is not the case.
My local lumberyard has been known to buy from the big box stores and then mark it up.
You should vent the attic, as you may get condensation, and the hot roof deck is bad for your comp roof. I have a solar gable fan and drilled the freeze blocks. Ventilation is your friend. Cora vent under the ridge caps is even better for the roof. You don’t need gable vents for that, only the vents in the freeze blocks.
I used OSB in My 3stall Garage and Painted it white and I have a very reflective surface that Makes this Garage very bright and in the work shop area it's a good place to work and have great lighting! I was going to use plywood also until I saw the price!
Thanks for you time
We have an '80s' home. Put in solar-powered roof vents. Check around the net for proper placement for your roof style before cutting any holes up there!
You can tape the joints on OSB and mud skim coat it just like gyproc. It can then be span texed or just painted smooth. The final result wil look just like a drywalled surface. Modern house construction uses OSB for the roof, outside walls and your floors.
I learned a lot!
I like what you have done..gave me some ideas for my own shop.. I especially like how you have your house in the middle of a race track!! Lol( that's what it sounded like and looked like out your garage windows..lol)
Ha ha - we live close to a high school and fairgrounds next to a busy street.
I have soffit and roof line vents in my attic, I am also planning to put mechanical vent up there as well.
Look good 👍
I had rip out some osb to repair a leak. i have a 2 pitch slop. great video.
Absolutely vent the attic. In Venting think cross ventilation. On a ranch-style house put a vent at one end of the attic and then an attic fan on the other. Suck air from the outside, across the attic space exhausting out the fan side.. Set the temperature controller to come on at about 110 degrees. The attic will be cooler and dryer. Great look for a rustic community. Very practical for screwing things into the wall. Wood soaks up a lot of light, keep that in mind.
I ran 1/2” OSB across the ceiling joists, not with them. I screwed a 50” 2x2 to the joists where every butt joint was so I could get a full inch and a half of space for screws on each end of the sheet and left an 1/8th inch gap between the ends. Less blow out on the ends not having to screw so close to the edge. I put surface mount LED lights that plug into each other on the ceiling and it’s awesome.
Vent the attic with ridge vent and put soffit vents every 6 foot then add rectangle gable end events about 18"x 24" in size . Will help garage and house breath much more efficiently. Will also be easier to heat and cool .
Your OSB Ceiling is good. No problem there. The venting of the attic space is very important. The simplest way to do that is with soffit vents and Ridge vents or Gable end vents. Do not forget to vent the attic space of the garage as well. John in Missouri Valley Iowa
OSB NOT good. Many problems there. I won’t repeat what many others have said in comments. (Read them)
Great video, similarly just did finish off my 1986 built 3 bay garage/workshop I bough 6 years ago so I had some time to think things over and went with close cell spray foam for the roof and gable ends leaving everything open for storage which there its never enough of, this type of insulation was very expensive but the energy savings and comfort level going forward is well worth it and it is somewhat structural, I'm in a similar climate like you in the Adirondacks. Also, this type of insulation solves all the venting issues discussed through out the comments.
Looks fantastic. You took on quite a project doing the ceiling.
Job well done looks great they have a new product Truss core alot easier to handle I know the costs would be more but looks good thanks
We always use fireproof 5/8” drywall in garages. In fact it’s part of the fire code in my city. Any wood materials wood be a tender box. Many fires Start in the garage and you want to contain it for as long as possible so that the fire department has a chance to save your living space.
Most excellent job brother! Very professional workmanship, and the final result will last decades! I would kill to have a garage, but ultimately I will have a full workshop, that is if lumber prices ever come down...then again, there's always the Florida Lottery! haha...
Keep up the good work!
I used it to make rooms in my basement and used clear coat to seal it looks just as good now as it did 40 years agp
In order to avoid having to cut soffit vents, I would go with gable end vents with one of them temperature triggered AC powered. If you do either muffin type vents or a ridge cap, you'll have to cut in soffit vents around the entire house. Gable vents would be least cost/least effort. I'm doing my garage ceiling with the very same OSB, I have ridge cap vents due to existing soffit vents. Great video!
I would definitely added vents. I am in Canada (Calgary Alberta) and when we reshingled the roof I added a second whirlybird vent. Guys said was overkill, but barely use AC anymore. And that’s with a black roof!
I love the Osb ceiling but u do need a vent in each gable end and also a good 16 inche whirly bird vent in the roof to vent some of the condensation it is a must you really need some sort of ventilation for sure a very good install looks fantastic
I am adding ventilation as soon as it warms up. Thanks for your comment.
Years ago I put OSB on my garage wall, I thought like you if I was to paint that side it would look better. I was mistaken the heavy coat of latex paint started to lift the stands of the strands . I believe the texture side has a small amount of weather protection and will actually paint better.
At minimum add a vent on each gable end. The best venting is a ridge vent and soffit vents.
I shingled my home in 30 deg weather, I left the ridge vent covered with felt paper until I was ready to install the ridge vent and cap shingles. I cut the felt paper at the top to open it up and it felt like I had a fan blowing heat out the vent!
Without ventilation, roofing nails sticking through the plywood will drip condensation in cold weather and your shingles will bake in hot weather.
My house came with a 1,000 sf workshop on the property. I calked, electrified, insulated, vapor-wrapped, and then OSB'ed the interior. I sprayed it all white. Best decision I ever made. I make my living in it and it's toasty-warm in the winter and air conditioned in the summer. It costs about $325/yr to heat with propane. I bought 72 sheets back when they cost just under $4.00 each. :)
good job i need to do that two
Wyoming: We just had a garage built about that size. The builder put 2 end peakwall 6x6 inch vents and I put 2 6x6 vents in the ceiling. The garage is heater by a Mr. Heater Natural Gas heater. Hope this helps. We used 5/8 drywall in the walls and ceiling with insulation in both. I ended up placing another garage door opener on the small door as well, was just handy. Good luck
You commented about going in the attic and stand on the osb it would support you. The osb is on the bottom of the trusses, the screws are holding the weight not the osb. The screws can pull out of they can pull 'through' the osb, don't plan on it to hold weight. If you want storage you need the "floor" and with plywood and osb you have a lot of extra weight on the trusses, don't overdo it. Remember the trusses were designed to span the width without supports, so if you add too much weight they will start to bend and may fail depending on how far you go.
Great "how-to" video on the use of a drywall lift. Regarding the comment on fire rated drywall, "TypeX" has a fire rating of 4 hours and is a standard in the computer center construction specifications. I have to replace a porch ceiling and I'm seriously considering 5/8" OSB. I'm going to dress it up by first painting it with Zinsser stain blocking primer. Some people have remarked that the natural oils in wood can bleed through water based primers and suggest a shellac based product. I could then use battens to dress up the seams or use wood filler/wood putty/Bondo for those seams and "float/sand" a primed OSB surface to make it look cleaner. I like the look of the stock OSB surface painted, but most craftsmen tend to lean towards a traditional look for a ceiling where filling/sanding is suggested. My project is a little more complicated by being the underside of a pitched shed roof.
I put foam channel in the eaves that fit in between the trusses and have a ridge vent. I ended up putting in cellulose insulation. I have an access hole but I don't store anything in the space. You forget it is up there and but new. I sprayed it with kills primmer and it still took a couple coats of paint to cover the ink on the OSB. I placed it smooth side down and exposed. I went with the OSB because it takes a beating with woodworking and other movement of stuff in the garage. I assumed the paint would slow the moisture migration and that is why you have the vents. I think the OSB is fire resistant enough with the insulation up against it. I do have a fire ratted drywall between the house and garage. 7/16/OSB = 46 pounds 1/2 drywall is 48 pounds
some people say it is actually better to have the rough side facing out if you want to paint OSB so you could always paint it later
I have built three detached "garages" and I put OSB on the walls of all three. The OSB saves incidental wall damage that would occur with sheetrock. I painted the walls white and left one unfinished. The white does make the space much brighter with less lighting.
With regard to your request for comment on venting of your garage, I believe its important for heat and to prevent moisture buildup. You are about going to have to install some static roof vents along with some soffitt vents.
For the garage attic, could you make an opening with a grill over the area facing the driveway? I like the look of the boards you used. With adequate lighting, it will actually look nice.
There are soffit vents, but they are small. You are suggesting a larger grill in the soffit, correct?
@ScottsGarage17 Not sure how the layout is. My house has a triangular large area facing the driveway. I don't know the terms used, so I might not be explaining it correctly. That is where I would make an opening. The openings in the soffit will be too small for a decent sized exhaust fan. You can install one of those solar powered fans on the roof, but that involves cutting the roof... too much work. If you have a side door going out from the garage, it might have enough space above it also.
You should install venting in the attic if completely sealed off from outside so moisture can escape... put a passive vent at both end in the gables.
Nice video. A lot of good comments already. Venting the attic is a good idea. if you did get moisture up there that didn't / couldn't dry quick enough you could be creating a mold farm. Fire retardant paint would be a good idea, but also required if the garage and house share the attic space. Meaning, there needs to be a continuous fire break between the house and garage. Garage fires do happen and OSB will go up like a torch. The glue that holds all those fibers together also burns toxic. That's why drywall is usually used. Looks great though.
I use OSB on my shop walls in the general work area. In the weld area I prefer drywall. My long term plan is to paint the OSB to brighten the space up.
I bought some stuff that soaks into wood products and turns it into a class A fire barrier if it’s applied to both sides. There’s also product that just coats the outside. And there is paint too. I’m using sanded plywood though for the most part. Goal is to be able to have some sort of a finished look but the ability to unscrew wall panels (my wiring is MC in the walls, plus plumbing, and maybe air) without the annoying ridges and echo of metal.
Put a ridge vent in along with vents in the soffit. Air needs to circulate to prevent moisture, mold, and mildew.
Add vents to the overhang and I recommend a power roof fan.
Didn't read all comments but my issue with osb is the "gassing out" of the formaldehyde. Maybe the formulation has changed but when I stripped (perp to chords) the top edge of my truss bottom chords with 2x2s then applied osb to the top of the stripping, I created a lot of storage space. My trusses are standard multi-panel design so you still have to step over the diagonal coming up from the bottom of the king post to walk perpendicular to trusses. But with the space between trusses decked, I am able to store a lot of stuff. It was hot up there during the installation and pretty smelly. So when I bought more osb to do more decking for more storage, I took ripped 24x96" sheets up into the attic and left them there for over a year so they could gas out and I could avoid breathing the stuff. Call me crazy (about the gassing out thing) but that is my experience. I'd be curious to know if anyone else has experienced the same odor issue. My it "may" have been the cause of an autoimmune response of mine that lasted over 9 months. I will not get into details about that unless someone else had a related immune experience.
Look very good
It was informative to watch your video, thanks. I do think I would paint the ceiling and walls white.... I also have no ventilation in my shed that I intend to cover inside walls with OSB ...and am worried about that.
The osb looks nice but I would hate to see how fast a fire would spread. When I did my garage ceiling I used 5/8" fire rated drywall. I also used a drywall lift that I purchased from Northern tool. It worked great.
A fire rating doesn't mean it doesn't burn. It is a measure of how much it will slow a spreading fire. Sealing the attic from the garage with osb will absolutely increase the fire rating of this garage. But an unchecked fire will destroy the structure no matter what its built from. Jet fuel can melt steel don't ya know?
@@michaelosmonYes. And it's much better than allowing fire in direct contact with the roof sheathing, trusses and plates above the garage, or all of the wood scraps, cardboard boxes and other crap stored on top of open ceiling joists.
Sir, I have been a drywaller for forty years and you are absolutely right . This is crazy, dangerous and looks like crap!
@@chrishigbie8645 Every garage I saw that was drywalled looked like a 15 year old did it lol.
The drywall lift will change your life .
I used osb on the walls and used primer paint with drywall compound mix, [25% compound ] and finished with a light gray. For the ceiling I use pole barn steel. when you do the math steel is not that much more and you can order lengths any size 2' to 36' [ ie 24' 3"] . it worked for me.
I got a price on barn tin installed, 36 by 48....$3200 Had to pass for now
Pole barn siding is cheeper and its all ready painted white its lightweight. And easy to install.
You'll need venting to keep car and motor exhaust fumes from finding a way into the house. Without a vent, the garage entry door becomes your primary vent. If you use an exhaust fan, put it on a timer switch.
It does look good but you may want to install blocking because over time the osb will succumb to gravity and begin to sag. 2x4 blocking between the ceiling joists will help prevent the downward pull.
You could’ve used soffit osb with the pre painted wood grain side facing down (face that side out when building a structure). I believe it’s less than a half inch, but also very strong and cheaper than regular osb. That’s been my “hack” for sheet goods for years now; about $35/4x8 sheet, fall 2023 @ Lowe’s.
I had a garage built recently and the contractor did the ceiling like that and once it was painted it came out really nice. I initially thought we were going to leave it open but glad he did it.
I like lots of insulation and lots of ventilation and never ignore the infiltration.
You can buy foil faced osb which reflects light and is fire rated. I would prime with Kilz and paint in your situation.
I like the idea ..I would have painted it that’s just me .However at the end of the day if you enjoy it that’s want matters .
Attic needs venting. Personally I'd recommend having ridge vent done. Another more expensive option (as long as this was in the budget, this would be my choice) have the attics totally sealed up and the insulation put on the bottom of the roof deck, making the attic part of the conditioned envelope. But you definitely need to do one or the other.
Looks nice.
I'd vent it, but no suggestions on how.
I have a 3 car garage and all walls clad in OSB and has been up for 30 years. I recommend you seal the OSB with paint. I'm getting ready to spray paint the walls and ceiling in my garage. Unsealed OSB will suck up all the moisture and start to warp. Its not a serious issue but sealed is better and I want brighter walls and ceiling to improve the lighting, everything getting white washed!
If you already have a roof a ridge vent is hard to put in. I have a power vent and it does great and it's easy to put in. You can plug it into your garage door.
First, I would have installed the OSB perpendecular to the trusses. Secondly, I'd be concerned about increased fire danger in the garage. Third, be careful as to how much stuff you store up there, especially since you live where snow and wind loading will bite into the safety factor engineered into the roof load the trusses can support.
My dad and I did this in his shed out back, but we drywalled the garage. Drywall is more work, but personally I like the end result better than using OSB- especially if you plan on using that space and having adequate lighting, you can't beat drywall painted bright white and a good amount of LED lighting. If you're just using a garage for storage- the OSB is a better option- just depends on what you plan on using the space for.
I did not read all of the comments, so sorry if this is a repeat. I would install a ridge vent. Cheap and easy, but you will need to reroof the ridge. As for the outside eves, it depends on what they look like.
Hole saw push in vents would be very easy.
Also consider redoing your ceiling access panel and turning it into a lift. Basically build a cage that is brought up and down using a HF winch.
OSB "oriented" is made to either span studs or joists, or parallel with the studs, joist. If you read the print it will tell you. It is printed on every sheet.
Nice job. Did you think about using a sealant/ caulking/construction adhesive on the OSB panels for added structural integrity/insulation properties?
painting the osb white will make the space MUCH brighter and easier to illuminate. Also, put in some ridge vents. B
Vents are a must…no matter what climate. I used 3/8 in my shop staggered, and it’s all you need. Unpainted OSB looks nasty to me and makes the interior too dark. I primed mine with a sealer…as I didn’t want the glue to leach through…which it will if not sealed. Then painted it white. Just painting it was like having the lights on even when they are off with the sun coming through the windows. Painting the OSB makes it so much brighter and not dungeon like. I have used a lot of different sealers on projects, but found Dulux Paint …(not deluxe) had the best i have ever used. It sealed beyond my expectations…and three years later is as good as when i first put it on…with no glue leaching through. Anyways that’s what did, andhave no regrets. Thank you for sharing your experience.
If you’re in the south or get high humidity I would paint the bds and vent the attic
The OSB should have been run perpendicular to the trusses w/ staggered seams greater strength, eliminates racking, and lets you 'straighten' the bottom truss cords.
If I had to recommend a venting system for your attic, I would recommend a continuous RIDGE VENT system. I'm no pro, just a DIYer like yourself. I think the look of a ridge vent is more appealing that the standard "Off Ridge" vents that are installed part way up the roofline. Hot air still accumulated inside the attic with this configuration, but if there was a ridge vent (hot air rises), and would escape through it..
If you’re ceiling joist are running north and south you run those those boards east and west always or vice versa.
Yes, soffit intake vents and ridge or close to ridge exhaust vents.
Did you install Hurricane straps when you had the chance?
Why didn't you stagger the OSB panels?
After checking an earlier video I see a connecting door which means code probably requires drywall ceiling for a fire stop. drywall would be cheaper. Fire starting in garages is common.
Well my garage isn’t finished. It’s do I build a shed and or finish garage. OSB is definitely on the table. Thanks for the video.
Should vent the roof with a ridge vent on the garage and the home and put in soffet vents to give the wood in the attic areas some airflow.
Typically you run the long dimension of the sheet goods perpendicular to the joists and stagger the butt joints. In this situation, it is not going to matter much, but it does make the structure a little stronger. Also, OSB is a flammable material. Typically I use 5/8" Type-X fire core gypsum board in a garage since there may be a higher risk of fire. If the garage is attached to the house or if there is a room above it you have to use Type-X Gyp board by code.
Better yet put the OSB on top of the rafters for an attic floor. Then insulate and cover with corrugated plastic panels in white.
The insulate and cover the walls with white pegboard. You can hang stuff anyplace.
The white makes the garage bright and a well lighted space.
To put the plastic panels up it just took a coupe 2x4s to make a stand.
The garage looks finished and not a bit of paint used. Also if the pegboard is damaged just screw up a new panel with drywall screws.
You NEED to vent the attic. Atmospheric moisture will collect up there and rot out the OSB. And it won't do your roof sheathing any good either. Hire someone to put a ridge vent along the entire house.
If you do paint it use primer first, as it is raw wood and it will absorb regular paint like a sponge. I suggest KILZ primer
OSB is better than drywall in a garage.
I'd have took the openers and door track hangers down, blocked the rafters then put OSB up, re-mount the openers and garage door tracks through the OSB and blocking. then there aren't any holes in the ceiling. Wiring for lights would have been easier before insulation.
Vent attic nice.
I would have considered painting each panel before installing then just some touch up after. Did you consider Sheetrock for the lower cost?
I considered sheetrock and I have done some sheetrock work, but I hate working with sheetrock. The osb is easy to work with. Thanks for your question and comment, though.