Yes. Just like elsewhere on TH-cam, click on "Figuring Stuff Out dot net" under the video, and you'll go to my channel page. That will show you a list videos that TH-cam selects that it thinks you might like from my channel, but click on the "videos" button, and you'll see my entire list. I have lots of videos about recovering my 1972 SuperBeetle (I'm almost to the engine start in 2021, but that won't come out for a few more weeks). I also have videos on aviation and other technologies.
I'm glad you liked it, thanks! Yeah, I've seen written explanations and occasionally diagrams, but I'd never seen anything that showed all four mountings in context, so that's what I was attempting. Thanks for watching!
Wonderful! I'm so glad. Yeah, it's hard to see them on the car. Having removed and installed the engine in my VW a few times, and mostly doing it by feel, I wanted to make this to help people do it. What kind of VW do you have? Were you removing/installing the engine, or the starter, or what? Thanks for watching.
You're welcome, thanks! (For others who may read this comment:) Yep! It's studs and nuts on the lower two, bolts and nuts on the upper two....except that the nut on the upper left is pressed into the engine bell housing and so is hidden.
I suspect they did originally have washers, yes. The new engine mount hardware set I have in the garage as a spare has a wavy washer for each nut. I presume they're mainly to protect the engine and transmission bell housings from scoring as the nuts get tightened. Having said that, my 1972 Super in the time that I've owned it never had washers anywhere in the engine mounting hardware, just the nuts. I haven't bothered adding any.
You're very welcome! This was definitely a video that I took the time to do because it would have been useful the first time I was trying to pull the engine on my VW. I'm glad you like it; feel free to check out the rest of my channel! I hope to finally get the video edited with the engine start sometime this spring.
Thank you, I don't think I would have gotten that one top bolt opposite of the starter off if it was not for your video. I am used to older VW engines where there was just a nut there.
@@tompearson8364 Does your engine have the dog house oil cooler shroud? In other words, can you reach where the nut would be on the car with the engine in? Thanks for the info.
You're very welcome. I kind of liked this one. I find it's hard to get a feel for how something is arranged or how it goes together if you can only see parts of it at a time. I had the opportunity with my engine out, and the junk transmission to show the bolts in a way that you can actually see how it goes together with reasonable lighting. I have several other VW videos on my channel, feel free to check them out! I also have many more on the way as I get my 1972 SuperBeetle back on the road. I just got the right front spindle off the shock tower which I'll have up as a new video in a few weeks.
Hi, The engine mount hardware is important enough that if I were you, I'd try to buy them specifically made for that purpose. In any case, I'm not sure you can get the extra-long bolt with the D-shaped head anywhere except a VW supplier. The part number for the hardware install kit is 111199000A (for 1971 and later VWs). It's available at Wolfsburgwest.com for $6.76 right now. That indludes the long D-head bolt, the other bolt for the other upper mount, three nuts, and washers. To answer your specific question, I just got out my spare kit. They seem to be M10 bolts/nuts by 1.5 threads. But again, if you're actually going to hang an engine with them and drive the car, I'd just order the real thing and be done.
@@fsodn .Thanks ! this is alot of help .ill order them. also do you have any idea what bolts/ nut size for the bracket that holds the cable clutch to the trans axle? I have a sedan trans that's missing one bolt and i have no nut for the bolt thats there. Id like to save 15 trips to the hard wear store while trying to guess metric sizes.Thanks for replying !
I don't know, and I'm not with my VW stuff at the moment. If you don't have one, I would go on thesamba.com and create an account. It's a great community and there are folks there with a ton of knowledge. I would ask your question there. I'm sure there's someone who knows.
FYI: metric bolts are sized by their outer diameter in millimeters. If you don't have one, I would pick up a cheap calipers. Measure the outer diameter of the bolt (including threads) and the "M" size is the number of millimeters that are slightly higher than that. The engine mount bolts were just slightly less than 10 mm in diameter, thus M10. For any given M size, there will usually be two thread numbers, one "fine", and one "coarse". In metric the number is the distance between the threads in mm, so the higher then number, the coarser the thread. Here's a thread they have on bolt threads: www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=313722
Hi! great video. are all the 4 bolt transmission patterns interchangeable? Im new to the vw stuff and looking to buy a 1600cc engine to bolt into a dune buggy i have. The transmission i have uses 4 bolts like you have in your video. I purchased the buggy without any engine. i have found several engines for sale locally. In my research it looks like the transmssions are somewhat interchangeable. Any info would be appreciated.
I *think* all of the bolt patterns are the same. However, my impression is there are a couple of other considerations. As far as the engine mechanically matching the transmission, you'll want to make sure that they're the same "voltage". The starter and flywheel gear teeth are different between 6V version of the Beetle (1966 and previously, approximately) and 12V versions (1967 models and later). I think the engine bell on both sides may be *slightly* different on both engine and transmission as well between 6V and 12V. I"m pretty sure that any 1600 engine is going to be 12V, so you'll want to check your transmission and starter (if any) if they're 12V. If they are, then you may be able to use them as-is. If the transmission/starter combo are 6V, then you might want to consider swapping them out. As far as the transmission, if you need/want to swap it, then it's a consideration whether it's a swing-axle or an IRS. Swing-axle has single axles hinged at the transmission end but otherwise solid. "IRS" has constant-velocity shafts that have U-joints at both ends. I presume it would be more complicated and expensive if you wanted to switch from one to the other. Double-check all of this; I'm not an expert on any of this. Good luck, and let us know how it goes!
I haven't broken top left motor mount bolt The head's broken off I'm trying to remove the motor that should be just a threaded nine threaded hole in the engine side of that hole right I'm bolting to the transmission with my bolt the is the whole upper left hole motor mount hole threaded on the motor side please help
I think you're saying that you're trying to remove the engine from an air-cooled VW, and there's a problem with your upper left engine mount bolt, is that right? The answer depends on whether it's a "dog house oil cooler" engine or not. If you reach in front of the fan shroud on your engine toward the engine mount bolt, but you can't get to it because the oil cooler and it's piping are in the way, then you have a dog house oil cooler. If you can see the upper left engine mount bolt looking in there, and touch the engine block from that side by reading past the fan shroud, then you don't have a dog house oil cooler. If you have a dog house oil cooler like mine, then here's your answer. With a dog house oil cooler, part of the hole on the engine side is threaded. If you don't have a dog house oil cooler, then I think the hole probably isn't threaded, but I don't honestly know; I've never worked on one of those cars. Either way, if the head is broken off of the upper left mount bolt, you may be able to get the engine out anyway. You can just pull the engine back, and the headless bolt will slide out of the transmission. If you don't have someone local to talk to, though, your best bet is to go onto the site thesamba.com. It's a a site with a ton of forums, all on air-cooled VWs. There are many experts there that can help you and they'll know how to deal with your problem. Good luck!
No, there isn't. I mention at 1:25 in the video that the engine mounts rigidly to the transmission, but the transmission attaches to the frame by three flexible mounts that serves to cushion the vibrations from the engine/transmission assembly from the body. The engine tin is close to the body all the way around the engine bay but it's not mounted to the frame there. As far as the rear sheet metal of the car is concerned, the engine floats there. All its weight is on the transmission. Does that help?
Thanks for the comment. Mixing it up is easy to do, yes. People often refer to the "rear main seal" in a VW engine, which is on the flywheel end of the crankshaft (and thus is the *forward* end of the engine). However, I don't believe I made any right/left mistakes here; I just watched the video again to check. I always refer to the *right* upper mount as the one that shares a bolt with the starter, and the *left* upper mount bolt as the one into the captive nut by the oil cooler. And I don't refer to the lower studs by left or right at all. If you think I mixed something up, please give me a time stamp where the mistake is. There is a standard. Maybe not invented by him, but John Muir (who wrote _How to Keep Your Volkswagen Alive_) uses a very strong convention in that book. He uses "right" meaning the right of the vehicle, that is, standing behind it and looking at the part as it sits in the car, and left likewise, and front is toward the front of the vehicle, and rear toward the rear. So the starter is at the upper right of the engine. The generator is right of center. The oil cooler is on the left side of center. The belt pulley is at the rear of the engine, and the flywheel is at the front of the engine.
@@fsodn It could very possibly have been myself that was confused LOL To avoid confusion years ago, sailors invented specific language such as forward-aft-port-starboard. Obviously the issue with VWs is due to an engine in the back and then compounded by the engine being “backwards”! The main rear seal is in the front SAY WHAT???
Yep. All very well said. Thanks for the response! Because of the confusion you talked about, I was very careful about left vs. right in this video. However, I admittedly was not especially careful about camera angles, because I was concentrating on getting good lighting and clear camera shots of the bolts/nuts, rather than a consistent viewpoint. So that was a bit confusing if you're not used to looking at VW engine/transmissions.
Thanks a lot! Please subscribe, and tell your friends. I've done a *ton* of work on my Beetle since late May, and I have film of most of it. I'll be posting lots more videos about it this summer and fall.
At 5:51 I saw stocking feet while lifting the tranny. Nope! That’s just dumb, on par with using a carpenters claw hammer in a metal shop. All your cred vanished in that instant.
The transmission is like 20 pounds, less since that particular transmission is missing about 60% of its innards. I could hold it up with one arm if I had to. My feet are in no danger. I don't have a metal shop. This is my garage. I'll use a claw hammer in it if I damned well please. I've done way stupider stuff on my channel than lift a transmission in stocking feet, or use the wrong hammer. I have a video about using a ball joint separator tool to extract some rubber suspension bushings. I recommend that video; it's really scandalous! Really, I'd check out all my videos to catalog the dumb things I do. There are admittedly a lot. I used a drill on a gas tank; it's pretty awesome.
Best videos ever, thank you for explaining the function and reasoning behind some of the parts and placements. Do you have more videos?
Yes. Just like elsewhere on TH-cam, click on "Figuring Stuff Out dot net" under the video, and you'll go to my channel page. That will show you a list videos that TH-cam selects that it thinks you might like from my channel, but click on the "videos" button, and you'll see my entire list.
I have lots of videos about recovering my 1972 SuperBeetle (I'm almost to the engine start in 2021, but that won't come out for a few more weeks). I also have videos on aviation and other technologies.
Finally a video that shows the left upper mounting bolt for a late model 👍👍👍👍
I'm glad you liked it, thanks! Yeah, I've seen written explanations and occasionally diagrams, but I'd never seen anything that showed all four mountings in context, so that's what I was attempting.
Thanks for watching!
Your explanation of the 1971 save me alot time as opposed to the the other You Tube vids
Wonderful! I'm so glad. Yeah, it's hard to see them on the car. Having removed and installed the engine in my VW a few times, and mostly doing it by feel, I wanted to make this to help people do it.
What kind of VW do you have? Were you removing/installing the engine, or the starter, or what?
Thanks for watching.
Awesome video and helped make so much sense too me. I always wondered why three nuts and two bolts. Now it all comes together (no pun intended )
You're welcome, thanks!
(For others who may read this comment:) Yep! It's studs and nuts on the lower two, bolts and nuts on the upper two....except that the nut on the upper left is pressed into the engine bell housing and so is hidden.
Verry good explanation thank you
Thanks very much! Yes, I was very pleased about how this one came out.
So I can't find this answer... should the 4 studs have washers along with the 17mm nuts?
I suspect they did originally have washers, yes. The new engine mount hardware set I have in the garage as a spare has a wavy washer for each nut. I presume they're mainly to protect the engine and transmission bell housings from scoring as the nuts get tightened.
Having said that, my 1972 Super in the time that I've owned it never had washers anywhere in the engine mounting hardware, just the nuts. I haven't bothered adding any.
Thanks a million. That was very helpful!
You're very welcome! This was definitely a video that I took the time to do because it would have been useful the first time I was trying to pull the engine on my VW.
I'm glad you like it; feel free to check out the rest of my channel! I hope to finally get the video edited with the engine start sometime this spring.
this was a very well made informative video! Thank you!
Thanks! I try to make the kind of videos that I would have found useful when I was first working on that car 15 years ago.
Excellent video! You the man!
Thanks! I kinda liked this one. It helps me work on stuff when I can refer to things like this that show me where things are and how they go together.
Thank you
You're very welcome. I hope it was helpful!
Excellent Video! Thank you!
You're very welcome. I hope it's helpful. I try to make videos that would have been helpful to me when I first was working on the car many years ago.
Thank you, I don't think I would have gotten that one top bolt opposite of the starter off if it was not for your video. I am used to older VW engines where there was just a nut there.
That's fantastic to hear!
So it was a bolt with a hex head under the car, and a nut on the engine side?
That's super-cool! I'm so glad it helped.
@@fsodn My '70 bug has a tapped thread in the engine case and a hex head bolt through the transmission side, like in your video
@@tompearson8364 Does your engine have the dog house oil cooler shroud? In other words, can you reach where the nut would be on the car with the engine in?
Thanks for the info.
The engine has an older style oil cooler so there is space to get a wrench behind it. However, the case is from a newer model that had the doghouse
Thanks
You're welcome, thanks for commenting! I have lots of other videos, please check them out.
Thank you!!!
You're very welcome.
I kind of liked this one. I find it's hard to get a feel for how something is arranged or how it goes together if you can only see parts of it at a time. I had the opportunity with my engine out, and the junk transmission to show the bolts in a way that you can actually see how it goes together with reasonable lighting.
I have several other VW videos on my channel, feel free to check them out! I also have many more on the way as I get my 1972 SuperBeetle back on the road. I just got the right front spindle off the shock tower which I'll have up as a new video in a few weeks.
good video. What size ,thread, pitch are these bolts? I'm build my car from scratch. I don't have any of these bolts. Thanks
Hi,
The engine mount hardware is important enough that if I were you, I'd try to buy them specifically made for that purpose. In any case, I'm not sure you can get the extra-long bolt with the D-shaped head anywhere except a VW supplier. The part number for the hardware install kit is 111199000A (for 1971 and later VWs). It's available at Wolfsburgwest.com for $6.76 right now. That indludes the long D-head bolt, the other bolt for the other upper mount, three nuts, and washers.
To answer your specific question, I just got out my spare kit. They seem to be M10 bolts/nuts by 1.5 threads. But again, if you're actually going to hang an engine with them and drive the car, I'd just order the real thing and be done.
@@fsodn .Thanks ! this is alot of help .ill order them. also do you have any idea what bolts/ nut size for the bracket that holds the cable clutch to the trans axle? I have a sedan trans that's missing one bolt and i have no nut for the bolt thats there. Id like to save 15 trips to the hard wear store while trying to guess metric sizes.Thanks for replying !
I don't know, and I'm not with my VW stuff at the moment.
If you don't have one, I would go on thesamba.com and create an account. It's a great community and there are folks there with a ton of knowledge. I would ask your question there. I'm sure there's someone who knows.
FYI: metric bolts are sized by their outer diameter in millimeters. If you don't have one, I would pick up a cheap calipers. Measure the outer diameter of the bolt (including threads) and the "M" size is the number of millimeters that are slightly higher than that. The engine mount bolts were just slightly less than 10 mm in diameter, thus M10.
For any given M size, there will usually be two thread numbers, one "fine", and one "coarse". In metric the number is the distance between the threads in mm, so the higher then number, the coarser the thread.
Here's a thread they have on bolt threads: www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=313722
Hi! great video. are all the 4 bolt transmission patterns interchangeable? Im new to the vw stuff and looking to buy a 1600cc engine to bolt into a dune buggy i have. The transmission i have uses 4 bolts like you have in your video. I purchased the buggy without any engine. i have found several engines for sale locally. In my research it looks like the transmssions are somewhat interchangeable. Any info would be appreciated.
I *think* all of the bolt patterns are the same. However, my impression is there are a couple of other considerations.
As far as the engine mechanically matching the transmission, you'll want to make sure that they're the same "voltage". The starter and flywheel gear teeth are different between 6V version of the Beetle (1966 and previously, approximately) and 12V versions (1967 models and later). I think the engine bell on both sides may be *slightly* different on both engine and transmission as well between 6V and 12V.
I"m pretty sure that any 1600 engine is going to be 12V, so you'll want to check your transmission and starter (if any) if they're 12V. If they are, then you may be able to use them as-is. If the transmission/starter combo are 6V, then you might want to consider swapping them out.
As far as the transmission, if you need/want to swap it, then it's a consideration whether it's a swing-axle or an IRS. Swing-axle has single axles hinged at the transmission end but otherwise solid. "IRS" has constant-velocity shafts that have U-joints at both ends. I presume it would be more complicated and expensive if you wanted to switch from one to the other.
Double-check all of this; I'm not an expert on any of this. Good luck, and let us know how it goes!
Thank you so much! -74 ghia
You're very welcome! Yes, I shot this video because it's the sort of thing I wished I'd had when I pulled the engine in my VW the first time.
I haven't broken top left motor mount bolt The head's broken off I'm trying to remove the motor that should be just a threaded nine threaded hole in the engine side of that hole right I'm bolting to the transmission with my bolt the is the whole upper left hole motor mount hole threaded on the motor side please help
I think you're saying that you're trying to remove the engine from an air-cooled VW, and there's a problem with your upper left engine mount bolt, is that right?
The answer depends on whether it's a "dog house oil cooler" engine or not. If you reach in front of the fan shroud on your engine toward the engine mount bolt, but you can't get to it because the oil cooler and it's piping are in the way, then you have a dog house oil cooler. If you can see the upper left engine mount bolt looking in there, and touch the engine block from that side by reading past the fan shroud, then you don't have a dog house oil cooler.
If you have a dog house oil cooler like mine, then here's your answer. With a dog house oil cooler, part of the hole on the engine side is threaded.
If you don't have a dog house oil cooler, then I think the hole probably isn't threaded, but I don't honestly know; I've never worked on one of those cars.
Either way, if the head is broken off of the upper left mount bolt, you may be able to get the engine out anyway. You can just pull the engine back, and the headless bolt will slide out of the transmission.
If you don't have someone local to talk to, though, your best bet is to go onto the site thesamba.com. It's a a site with a ton of forums, all on air-cooled VWs. There are many experts there that can help you and they'll know how to deal with your problem.
Good luck!
No engine mounts from engine to frame?
No, there isn't. I mention at 1:25 in the video that the engine mounts rigidly to the transmission, but the transmission attaches to the frame by three flexible mounts that serves to cushion the vibrations from the engine/transmission assembly from the body. The engine tin is close to the body all the way around the engine bay but it's not mounted to the frame there. As far as the rear sheet metal of the car is concerned, the engine floats there. All its weight is on the transmission.
Does that help?
You’re mixing up left/right etc! Common problem with VWs is also front/back description. We need a standard!
Thanks for the comment. Mixing it up is easy to do, yes. People often refer to the "rear main seal" in a VW engine, which is on the flywheel end of the crankshaft (and thus is the *forward* end of the engine).
However, I don't believe I made any right/left mistakes here; I just watched the video again to check. I always refer to the *right* upper mount as the one that shares a bolt with the starter, and the *left* upper mount bolt as the one into the captive nut by the oil cooler. And I don't refer to the lower studs by left or right at all.
If you think I mixed something up, please give me a time stamp where the mistake is.
There is a standard. Maybe not invented by him, but John Muir (who wrote _How to Keep Your Volkswagen Alive_) uses a very strong convention in that book. He uses "right" meaning the right of the vehicle, that is, standing behind it and looking at the part as it sits in the car, and left likewise, and front is toward the front of the vehicle, and rear toward the rear. So the starter is at the upper right of the engine. The generator is right of center. The oil cooler is on the left side of center. The belt pulley is at the rear of the engine, and the flywheel is at the front of the engine.
@@fsodn It could very possibly have been myself that was confused LOL To avoid confusion years ago, sailors invented specific language such as forward-aft-port-starboard. Obviously the issue with VWs is due to an engine in the back and then compounded by the engine being “backwards”! The main rear seal is in the front SAY WHAT???
Yep. All very well said. Thanks for the response!
Because of the confusion you talked about, I was very careful about left vs. right in this video. However, I admittedly was not especially careful about camera angles, because I was concentrating on getting good lighting and clear camera shots of the bolts/nuts, rather than a consistent viewpoint. So that was a bit confusing if you're not used to looking at VW engine/transmissions.
@@fsodn thanks, I imagine it’s not easy. Keep it up.
Thanks a lot! Please subscribe, and tell your friends.
I've done a *ton* of work on my Beetle since late May, and I have film of most of it. I'll be posting lots more videos about it this summer and fall.
At 5:51 I saw stocking feet while lifting the tranny. Nope! That’s just dumb, on par with using a carpenters claw hammer in a metal shop. All your cred vanished in that instant.
The transmission is like 20 pounds, less since that particular transmission is missing about 60% of its innards. I could hold it up with one arm if I had to. My feet are in no danger.
I don't have a metal shop. This is my garage. I'll use a claw hammer in it if I damned well please.
I've done way stupider stuff on my channel than lift a transmission in stocking feet, or use the wrong hammer. I have a video about using a ball joint separator tool to extract some rubber suspension bushings. I recommend that video; it's really scandalous! Really, I'd check out all my videos to catalog the dumb things I do. There are admittedly a lot. I used a drill on a gas tank; it's pretty awesome.