Two videos in one week! You are knocking it out of the park Mike. This video was definitely one of your best, especially for those of us who are novices. Keep them coming 🙂
Jersey, thank you for making these videos. They are extremely helpful and very much appreciated. I’m always looking forward to seeing them. Great job!!
New tech to the field and had two no cooling calls. Last call today was a fuse popping. Had to call the boss for help and we led it down to a bad contactor. After replacing with a new one to check the coil we swap out the contact and unit fired up.
Went to help someone and got the outside unit from the contact switch to work condensor, then cked the thermostat, know from you that should be first now i know. no power at red to y in attic opened the cover and did not know how to trouble shoot but did ck the drain switch....no water so know it must have been the thermostat or the fuse? but had to turn over to a pro.....now with your help, I'm getting a getter idea.....your thoughts?
Depending on the type of thermostat (those that are still functional when the faceplate is removed), you will read 0 volts between R and Y when in cooling mode because the switch is closed between the terminals. This makes 2 different wires basically the same wire now, meaning you're trying to test for voltage with your probes on the same wire reading 0 volts when there is actually 24 volts there. Using a terminal with a wire that isn't being used in cooling mode (such as W) will give a 24v reading on R if it's there, because that switch between R and W is open, R and W are separate wires at that point and a voltage reading can be made. I have another video on how to test thermostats that goes into details. th-cam.com/video/JzV22cr0ze8/w-d-xo.html If there is no low voltage reading either way, or anywhere in the system for that matter, then typically it is the fuse, the transformer or the high voltage feed into the unit.
Yes, jumpering R to G should start the blower motor if the thermostat is failing to do it. There are some systems with control boards however that will activate the blower on the Y signal (even if the G signal is not making it). Units with fan relay boards in them (no control board) are the ones that rely entirely on the G signal to activate the blower.
Your videos are so well done…packed with useful information and straight to the point! How do you not have 500,000+ viewers???
Thanks so much!
new to the industry. got my 608 but need to learn a lot and you are helping tremendously
This is the best hvac Chanel on TH-cam !
Thank you!
I random HVAC apprentice second this
Thanks for your videos, they really help us that ate just starting out.
Two videos in one week! You are knocking it out of the park Mike. This video was definitely one of your best, especially for those of us who are novices. Keep them coming 🙂
Thank you brother. Will do.
As always great thanks 🙏 you 😊the break down system cooling
Jersey, thank you for making these videos. They are extremely helpful and very much appreciated. I’m always looking forward to seeing them. Great job!!
Amazing!!! This video is the top as always. Please keep them coming
Great video, great information , thank you 👍
Great video!! Thanks for sharing
Great video
New tech to the field and had two no cooling calls. Last call today was a fuse popping. Had to call the boss for help and we led it down to a bad contactor. After replacing with a new one to check the coil we swap out the contact and unit fired up.
Nice! 👍
nice job i will study this
Awesome video, very helpful
Love to hear that!
Great video.
Thanks!
BRAVO!!!!
I love it 👍
Show us how to make a training board like that
Perfect
You are the best, respect 🫡
Went to help someone and got the outside unit from the contact switch to work condensor, then cked the thermostat, know from you that should be first now i know. no power at red to y in attic opened the cover and did not know how to trouble shoot but did ck the drain switch....no water so know it must have been the thermostat or the fuse? but had to turn over to a pro.....now with your help, I'm getting a getter idea.....your thoughts?
Depending on the type of thermostat (those that are still functional when the faceplate is removed), you will read 0 volts between R and Y when in cooling mode because the switch is closed between the terminals. This makes 2 different wires basically the same wire now, meaning you're trying to test for voltage with your probes on the same wire reading 0 volts when there is actually 24 volts there. Using a terminal with a wire that isn't being used in cooling mode (such as W) will give a 24v reading on R if it's there, because that switch between R and W is open, R and W are separate wires at that point and a voltage reading can be made.
I have another video on how to test thermostats that goes into details. th-cam.com/video/JzV22cr0ze8/w-d-xo.html
If there is no low voltage reading either way, or anywhere in the system for that matter, then typically it is the fuse, the transformer or the high voltage feed into the unit.
Any way you could do one of these fantastic sequence videos proving with a voltmeter all along the way please. Thanks
Sure. Next time I have a little time in the shop (whenever that'll be) I'll do a low voltage hopscotch version.
Like a part 2 to this one on his same exact board.
So my blowers are not coming on would I then jump RTG on the thermostat and see if the actual thermostat is bad?
Yes, jumpering R to G should start the blower motor if the thermostat is failing to do it. There are some systems with control boards however that will activate the blower on the Y signal (even if the G signal is not making it). Units with fan relay boards in them (no control board) are the ones that rely entirely on the G signal to activate the blower.
Thank you. This does not have a board. It's a Lennox
Marry me Mike 😂
lol. 👍