I Made a DIY AMS Using Old 3D Printer Parts
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 6 ก.พ. 2025
- In this video, I'll show you how I made a DIY multi-material system using spare parts from old 3D printers that I found in my drawer.
If you haven't watched it, be sure to watch the video about conversion 2 Creality Ender-3 into one fast CoreXY printer:
• - DUENDER: Part 1 - I ...
My Patreon, for those who can and want to support the channel financially:
/ irbis3d
As well as a link for regular donations. Thank you in advance.
buymeacoffee.c...
About cutting the filament and its necessity. I know that it is possible to use a combination of retracts and extrusions in such a way as to minimize the unevenness of the filament tip. And it works seamlessly in the bowden setup. But no matter how much I've tried, removing the filament without cutting is not stable. A slight change in the moisture content of the plastic, a different color, a different type of filament, and you need to adjust everything anew. Because each plastic behaves a little differently. Even the slightest thickening or piece of plastic at the end sooner or later clogs the main direct extruder.
It is no coincidence that all multimaterial printing systems now have a knife for cutting filaments.
I have been having great success with simply purging 10mm of filament, then quickly retracting to cold zone. I slowly retract 15mm more, then quickly out of the DD gears.
This gets me a sharp tip every time that loads perfectly. Even TPU! This is using a modified 3dchameleon, but the idea should work for any diy MMU
I've tried this method. But the result was not stable enough. It was possible to do this successfully only by lowering the temperature by 15-20 degrees, but this is a long time. Perhaps it also depends on the structure of the hotend.
@@Irbis3D That could be a factor, I have it working on a Creality K1 and DD Ender 3 currently. Been sharing this with the 3D-Chameleon community and it seems to be a hit!
I find that it always cools enough just from being in the cold zone 4 seconds or so, never gets wrapped up in the extruder gears. hundreds of changes last night for a 2 color dragon, all went perfectly!
in case you wanted to see the code I use:
G92 E0
G0 X299 Y299 F6000 ; move to back corner
G91 ; relative movement
G0 Z5 F400 ; raise 5mm to poop
G0 E10 F250 ; push out molten filament
G0 E-10 F3000 ; quickly retract to cold zone
G0 E-15 F200 ; slowly retract
G4 P4000 ; cool 4 seconds
G0 E-100 F3000 ; quickly retract all the way
G92 E0
G90 ; absolute movement
after loading the next filament be sure to run this to lower back down to print height:
G90 ; absolute movement
G0 Z-5 F400 ; lower 5mm
How about adding a TCS3200 TCS230 color sensor to purge only until the color comes out of the nozzle,
It's a cool idea, but I can hardly imagine how to implement it in the firmware.
when you were petting the cat you looked like the most friendliest bond villain ever!
That knowledge drop of just connecting an additional board to the host to gain access to additional steppers is great! this project and the duoender are both great.
In the klipper world that's just given info. One quick read through the configuration reference you'll find it and all sorts of other options you'd never think about.
Слава Богу, хоть кто-то занимается интересными исследованиями и что-то изобретает сам. Успеха Вам, дорогой друг!
We are all here for it! You are brilliant sir!
Thanks, man!!! Your comments warm my heart :)))
I am so blown away by how smart and creative you are! I really enjoyed this video and subscribed for more. Keep doing what you're doing friend :D ✌🍁
Great video! I’ve developed a similar system, the 3MS, which uses the same approach for modular multi-material setups on Klipper. It’s always interesting to see different implementations!
Fantastic stuff, well done! Enjoyed that you went through your design iterations and what obstacles you met and overcame. Looking forward to your future projects!
нравится смотреть видео Ирбиса, на английском, окей будем смотреть так)
This is a Great project. You sir are a master at prototyping. Your engineering skills are outstanding ❤
Bro, I am so impressed congratulation my guy you should be very proud of yourself IMO. What you have created with what you had in the spare parts box is extremally inspirational with out coming off like I'm glazing too hard.... bravo... This is the kind of stuff I love about people in this community it really hits home with me and what I try to do all the time with stuff most people would just throw away or throw their hands up and complain that they aren't interested in something unless it's already done for them completely turn key. I would really love to get more information about your transformation with your BTT H2 if possible.. I have a H2 v2 that I bought used that the seller screwed me over on and completely hid the fact that he stripped out one of the heatbreak screws so bad I have had to just leave it in their the way it is. But on top of that I am really irritated with the poor meshing internally of the gears when doing retractions and how crazy loud the clicking is causing you to have to run your retractions around 7/mms. I was kinda blown away that no one had yet made their own 3d printed body that took the H2's internals and posted it online. I would love to get your files for your extruder you created for your H2 parts if possible.
I'm going to find one new H2 to redesign my extruder for new gears. Then I'll upload all the files to printables.
Massive props to you sir! Excellent work.
This is awesome!
Soooo good that you use old hardware as it is meant to! Also it's much easier to be implemented.
Awesome!
Cheers for this very good video!
Your explanations and your voice are very pleasant.
Cheers for everything
I did this a while ago with a bowden setup but used each ams feeder motor as a the extruder as well. I found they weren't powerful enough to feed and Extrude. I may revisit this now that we can sync another extruder with a feeder motor. Nice work buddy! 👏
Лэт ми спик фром май харт))
Класс!
dude! that's awesome! can't wait to see more! bear in mind, tinkerer to tinkerer, your content gives me great ideas toward future projects i've been planning. i've been planning a custom half meter corexy build for quite a while, refining various aspects for when i have the build space, but have always planned a multimaterial system as part of the design. you just made me rethink some of the possibilities involved, so thank you! 😁
Отличная идея и работа! Как раз думал о такой накануне НГ, когда срочно потребовалось перейти на 3-цветную печать. Буду думать как доработать свой аналог Ender 3.
Thank you for sharing. Very impressive and good use of old printer parts.
Both two big videos with no clickbait thumbnails
I think you ganna be huge
Love this type of stuff. Looking forward for the buffer idea!
This is a wonderful project and youve done a lot of wonderful work.
This is a brilliant project, I look forward to seeing where you go next with it :)
This is great, looking forward to see you expanding the project and sharing your work!
Well done sir, I really like the idea of using parts from the original enders!
This is what i want to see more of on youtube you are great and if i can make a suggestion for a future project i would say "toolchanger"
Great video, really looking forward to it
о, Сережа, спасибо что вернулся в строй!!! Подпись лайк, колокольчик) )))
BTW your cat is gorgeous
"я не программист" - и показывает гору скриптов которые налабал)
дружище, все классно, продолжай) жаль что ориентация только на западных партнеров :(
for my end g-code i put a 10mm fast retract the moment it finishes the last print move, like an exaggerated retract during normal printing. gives me a great tip that i pull out after changing filaments and i haven't had to cut said tips for the past year. although that might not still be best for constant switching. maybe if after the retract and when the tool moves to the purge area with heating turned off and part fan on full blast to cool the nozzle tip there's another fast 12mm extract then another 10mm retract to ensure a proper clean break. plus that might help clean out the nozzle, idk
I have idk how many stepper motors laying around and an extra perfectly good board i can use like you have.. this is giving me ideas.
side note, for your filament buffer maybe you can do what Bambu does on the A1 with the spool holder that pulls back. I'm thinking a simple overrunning clutch with just enough tension on a wind up spring, possibly printed out of PETG
I've tried many different combinations of speeds, extrusion and retraction. But I haven't been able to get a consistent result for different types of plastic. Even different colors can behave differently. It works, but not for long. Small pieces of plastic accumulate in the feeder and gradually clog it.
I was thinking of the same thing. A spring on a slipper clutch that has just enough winding to pull the filament back onto the spool. When the filament is pulled out, it winds up to the set amount of force and then slips.
Also, on the 4 feeder motors, could you set the motor current very low, allowing them to skip steps during printing? This would allow any difference in speed to be allowed to happen during printing. When it's time to change filament, increase the motor current back to normal. Not really a buffer, but allows some give in the feeder system.
Hi, thank you for your best project. ❤🎉
How can I make this multi -colored AMS for myself because I don't have the money and have the ability to buy a multi -colored printer and I want to build one for myself so I can install it on my own handmade printer and work with it. .
Can you please present the program code and the printer file and the supplies it needs and make a training video so we can make for myself.
Thank you🥰❤️
Very impressive. Really enjoyed watching this.
If possible, look at the Chameleon 3D AMS. I think the mechanical system is very interesting and simple. And could have the benefit of having a neutral position, so the AMS could be dormant during normal printing. Their software implementation seems overcomplicated to me but the hardware is very interesting.
This is actually really nice looking, given it uses parts that a lot of people might have laying around collecting dust. I know I have.
Very clever my friend! 👏👏👏
I'm thinking about putting motors on the filament spool holder. Run them backwards instead of a dedicated buffer. ( But mostly just thinking.)
Comrade Sergey and his faithful cat! This is a very interesting video, keep it up.
Your work is amazing!
Nice work
Быстрая идея: Можно упростить устройство - использовать всего лишь один подающий двигатель для всех нитей под одним валом соединив его с экструдерным. Но для всех нитей придется тогда придется придумать прижимающий механизм для каждого филамента. Тогда есть шанс упростить всю электронную систему и встроить даже в прошивку Марлин.
Сергей, спасибо за видео!
Nice job man! This is pretty amazing
Very impressive! 👍
Niiice, you just got another sub, very creative!
awesome work!
thank you for the video! I hope many ppl will be interested in a more detailed video with Klipper configuration. Maybe how to install klipper on a stock printer?
There are already TONS maybe 30+ video already documenting how to install Klipper on all different kinds of machines.... you can buy a Ras Pi and add it to your printer to add klipper, you can use an old laptop to add Klipper, you can use an old tablet to add Klipper, you can use an old Android cell phone to add Klipper.. shit you can do what I did and use an old 5th gen i5 desktop with 4gb's of ram install Linux Mint XCFE as your operating system then install Klipper and run 3 printers off of that machine at the same time instead of putting SBC's ( ras pi's ) in each one.
Take a look at Happy Hare project and 3MS system. Basically you already have all the necessary parts to use Type B configuration
Please do a video on the camera slider with original ender 3 main board. I have my original one still.
I wasn't planning to make a video on this topic in the near future. But you can try to watch my old video on the Russian-language channel. You can turn on subtitles with automatic translation there, and more or less everything translates normally.
th-cam.com/video/KnNPvV-Cxs0/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=SergeyIrbis
Great project...
Серега красавчик! Успехов и процветания!
instead of trying to swap filaments for one print head, use multiple print heads, or multiple nozzle in one print head. removes all purging waste. also removes need for filament management system. just act if you have multiple separate independent tool-print heads. zero purge towers. because people copy. no self-thinking. better just put in multiple print heads running on their own rails, and have the bed slinger move a longer length to be able to freely use any print head whenever, even at same time. well, assume that you have many small light-weight normal print heads. printing at same z-height. the tool heads can by anything, including laser and cnc. if you make the combiner in the hot-end, then you dont have any cutting or purge problems.
I think he would have loved to do something like this but he lives in a place that is hard to get parts sometimes and if he is the kinda guy that put in the work to build a MMS out of whatever spare parts he had in a box then I don't think at this point in time he would looking to have to spend the few hundred bucks it takes minimum to do your own DIY toolchanger unless he just happened to have THAT many spare parts but there is that one channel that has been trying to make a single extruder that swaps with multiple hotends work and he's pretty damn close just needs to clean it up and refine it and that is a SUPER cheap way to do MMS better with out the waste of the AMS style of system
I just recieved the corner brackets for my DuEnder. I may do an AMS as well, but not until the printer is fully tuned.
Very helpful video!
While I would like a multi-material system I outright refuse to accept the waste and inefficiency of an AMS (or similar). I love your approach of using parts you already have and I know I have much, if not most, of the parts on hand already. Personally what I want is a 5 toolhead IDEX printer. Sadly I just don't have the skills to develop one myself nor do I want it badly enough to develop said skills. lol But, with that said if a company like Sovol would come out with a bolt-on upgrade kit for the SV08 that would give me multi toolhead IDEX functionality that is the printer I would buy...and probably more than one.
You haven't seen the couple of channels that have been building multi toolhead adaptations for the SVO8? Check out Teaching Tech's series on this topic and also The Next Layer, who happens to be this guys RL friend I believe?
@@TallynTech Oh I have been watching those. lol. Now we just need IDEX added and it'll be right up my alley.
You can actually change some code in a change -filament macros and go successfully without a blade cutter. For this you need first place a print-head far away from model, quickly purge a bit and than immediately retract to full length! And you will not have any problems with ooozing filament during change end charge
I know. But I've tried many different combinations for this, and I haven't been able to get a consistent result for different types of plastic. Even different colors can behave differently. It works, but not for long. Small pieces of plastic accumulate in the feeder and gradually clog it.
For printing in two colors, this is acceptable if you periodically clean the feeder. But when printing with 4 colors, when there can be up to 3 swaps per layer, the extruder gets clogged very quickly, even with the smallest pieces remaining during the retraction.
It is possible to swap without knife. Just retract 20мм, wait about 20 seconds, then quickly unretract 20mm and eject filament. This will melt than thin tail and leave good tip.
Also you can use more powerful steppers to eject and insert filament much faster, saving a lot of time.
I've tried many different combinations of speeds, extrusion and retraction. But I haven't been able to get a consistent result for different types of plastic. Even different colors can behave differently. It works, but not for long. Small pieces of plastic accumulate in the feeder and gradually clog it.
Привет, ты будешь выкладывать макросы в текущем состоянии для совместной работы над ними?
not gonna lie I am way to hyped up about printers right now I bought a a1 combo on the twenty first but it doesn't ship till two days after my birthday and I really wanna covert my old ender 3 because I put so much into it and if I sell it just becomes a third of the price I put into it but when you release your duet ender I'm gonna buy a second ender on marketplace for cheap and make my first every core xy printer and ill end up spending months tinkering with that and and eventually ill build your mmu and build an army of printers and something to think about with instructions is some people learn differently and some learn best with video instructions and some are better with written instructions with photos. but I seriously cant wait I really hope it turns out well and you can fine tune it to the way you want before the release best of luck my friend
This is such an amazing project! I had no idea you could use a second board as a second MCU in klipper.
I have been interested in building a material changer from the ground up like this, but cant figure out a good starting point for understanding macros and klipper modification.
You can run as many as you want I believe? because Canbus uses one in the toolhead, then you have two already for all Klipper machines automatically so Klipper + Canbus = 3 MCU's already
good job, good video :)
Well, looks like I am gonna finally start to use Klipper after all. Combining old boards to create a Frankenstein Monster of one's dreams. Sounds right!
Klipper is so amazing honestly. I am running a diy 8-color MMU with only 3 motors based on the 3dchameleon! It's a challenge but so amazing when it works
it only counts if you use an old laptop or desktop that you installed Linux on to run your Klipper host and then use an old android phone or tablet as your klipper screen like I did =D but that one machine is also running 3 Klipper printers off of one old 5th gen i5 with a 256gb ssd with Linux Mint Xcfe as the operating system it's great. But you could also just use a old tablet to run Klipper with that also functions as your Klipper screen... Oh, that Tablet can also just be used to host several 3d printers at the same time on one old android tablet for like $20 or $30 bucks... Same thing as the BTT Klipper Pad, there are a few companies that make their own " Klipper " pad now like Creality had the first one that can be used to host and run Klipper on several machines and it also functions as the Klipper screen for all of them but you can very easily DIY it yourself for like 20 to 30 bucks
Thank you very much
ty bro
hey, would you be able to post your h2 repacked extruder with cutter? i have a few h2 around and bambu hotends and would love to mash them up! great work!
Yes, I'm going to post it in a while. I need to re-model it a bit. My H2 was from the very first versions (pre-release) and had slightly different shaft sizes.
lovely vid
Hi, I'm really looking forward to the DUENDER documentation. My ender is already polluted and Vostok is already built. I'm preparing to build the next version of Vostok. I would like to rework a small project and your project for reworking the ender looks interesting...
Hi, great work! Are you going to share the extruder cad (the one with the Biqu h2 gears)? I would be interested in trying it!
Absolutely the same... I have an H2 v2 and can't believe someone out there hadn't created a custom body you could print for it yet because of how stupid and bad the meshing of gears is with the H2 v2
I still have the ender 3 original board. It would be nice to use that. Please publish when it's ready. I might also be interested in buying a kit if you sell. Would this work with Marlin firmware?
it wouldn't because Marlin doesn't have the ability or creating or making custom macros like you can in Klipper... This is what makes Klipper so amazing because you are not limited to only the functionality that Marlin lets you have but are given the ability to create anything and everything you would want your printer to be able to do Klipper lets you do it.
Serg, seems you need a spool back-winding mechanism to avoid a filament loops and mess.
Крч, надо катушки обратно при ретракте крутить, чтобы прям месива не было)
Ты гений 👍
РКН всеми способами(оказывается) помогает блогерам "подзаработать", Т.е. большинство пользователей из РФ сейчас пользуются 3 буквами.
Успехов тебе 🫡
Возможно помогло бы перед ректрактом продавить часть филамента с большой скоростью, чтобы новый не успел расплавится. Это используется в марлине при смене филамента, оставляет только небольшое утолщение.
I've tried many different combinations of speeds, extrusion and retraction. But I haven't been able to get a consistent result for different types of plastic. Even different colors can behave differently. It works, but not for long. Small pieces of plastic accumulate in the feeder and gradually clog it.
Молодец, одобряю канал английском, надеюсь все видосы твои видосы будут только тут.
Impressive!!
Крутой проект. Но сколько это в итоге вышло?
hey anyway we can get the model for your splitter block?
Ramming and tip forming is there to not need the cutter.
I've tried many different combinations of speeds, extrusion and retraction. But I haven't been able to get a consistent result for different types of plastic. Even different colors can behave differently. It works, but not for long. Small pieces of plastic accumulate in the feeder and gradually clog it.
@Irbis3D here are roughly the settings i use. Have toolhead move away from print area. Then extrude 2-5mm @ 3-500mms and retract 3/4 the length of your heatbreak @ 50-250mms . It's's this retract speed that ultimately forms the tip. Then pause for ~20 seconds. Long enough to allow heatbreak to cool the filament, then retract required distance.
Will it be possible to connect this system to the FlyingBear Ghost 5 on Marlin? I would like to receive a list of the necessary spare parts and software to start assembling.
I can say for sure that this system will definitely be able to work with the any printer on Klipper firmware. Most likely, this can also be configured in Marlin, but I'm not sure. I believe that marlin is an outdated firmware and it doesn't make sense to use it now. I am currently preparing the Duender project for release. After that, I will start preparing the sharing of this AMS.
nope not possible Marlin doesn't have customizable macros... but if you have a Ghost 5.. why don't you just convert it to mainline Klipper? That is one of the simplest printers to do so considering many people already have so you have a lot of things you can already pull from on the internet plus the most important part of any Klipper conversion is a good updated printer.cfg file for your printer and there are many for the Ghost 5
london is a capital of great britain
Wooo
Although I think this type of color printing is a waste of time and materials, Bambulab's idea is innovative.
You did one brilliant execution, very creative. Congratulations.
wow!
Sergey, are you sure it's reliable automatically?
0:57
I've been considering combining two Ender 3s into a Core XY setup but am unsure of the necessary hardware. Do you have a Bill of Materials (BOM) I can reference or any resources to guide me in designing my own version?
Not yet. For the next video, I'll prepare everything and share it somewhere. And in the next video I will tell in more detail how it is made.
I'm here for the cat. The 3D printing is just an added bonus. :3
Молодцом!
Im pretty sure, MMU was nice solution before AMS. Bambu AMS is slow somehow. I have IDEX printer. I dont want to print toys. And for serious use IDEX is good. So lets see your very good solution for 4 materials. С такими знаниями надо работать инженером по созданию 3д принтеров.
Yes, MMU is a great solution, but it wasn't even close to as popular as AMS. In my opinion, IDEX is the best system for multi-material printing. I would make it in a Duender, but it requires a lot of space on the sides for extruders.
@Irbis3D Cube frame is not good for IDEX. So its better to keep Duender as it is. Idex must be in wide frame. Best project I know is Magnetic IDEX by some Soviet born immigrant. But his prototype is in small wide frame. Need bigger frame to adopt bed of 250*250 at least.
you couldn't just say nice job bro? I bet you're a dream to be around
@TallynTech I just stand on critical point of view. I shaked hands with Sergey once, long time ago and expressed my gratitude. He has done a lot for our national 3d printing community.
Почему не делают дрыгостолы с Idex на 4 головы ? Это же панацея !
hi. what is name of this part cooling duct with fan. ... black one in 12:45?
I modeled it myself for my extruder. It's only suitable for that.
Блин, ну классно получилось, молодец! Отдельный респект за поддержку английского языка) по моему мнению это правильное направление. Другие ролики тоже помогли разобраться в некоторых вопросах. Молодец, спасибо!
Слишком много разговоров и мало технички как и что конкретно на железе.
Ochen' kryto!
Helloy! Ai like print and drink vodka :)
Что я пропустил? Почему Сергей перешёл на английский?
Life has changed, and the language has changed)))
@@Irbis3D was country changed?
Сергей, отлично что вы решили сориентироваться на англоговорящего зрителя! Очень рад!
bro lets go i was the first
Охеренно, до этого 3д печать не понимал, а тут еще и Серёга на непонятном языке говорит
Life has changed, and the language has changed. I made Russian subtitles. There is also an automatic voiceover feature in the yandex browser.
А русский канал ещё есть?
It's still there. But the new videos will be released here in English.
А ру комьюнити что всё? мы теперь не нужны 😮
Unfortunately, it is not possible to make videos for the old channel. To continue filming, I had to switch to English.
@Irbis3D очень жаль. Столько лет ждал от вас контент и не описывался. Даже просто просматривая контент в фоне. Надеюсь англо язычная аудитория будет рада. Прям нож в спину. Ну отвечать то можно и на русском( эх Ирбис.