Martin, thank you for the kind words =D I watched your "Drip 123 A to Z" video, you have fantastic presentation skills, I'm glad you're out there making videos for the gardening community!
@dripdepot Thanks for watching my video! I'm merely passing on information that I learn from you and the other creators I follow! We'd be lost without you guys! I'm still green and suffer from stage fright! 😱 Thanks for your kind words!
@@SouthCarolinaTransPlant You'd never know you were suffering stage fright watching your video! Good clear presentation and a great voice aesthetic -- I think most performers suffer stage fright to some degree (I do at times!) -- it's a fake-it til ya make-it kind of thing when it comes to public speaking haha. I hope you keep making great content!
We needed something to insert 1/4 inch barbs into 1/2 inch tubing. This was helpful to see what worked! We ended up being able to use the handle of a screwdriver with removable attachments
That's awesome! Did you use the screw driver socket to hold the barb while you pushed? If so, that's a fantastic tip to share! Pushing in 1/4" barbs ends up being a big obstacle for lots of folks, the more tips in our arsenal the better :)
@@dripdepot I had one of those screw drivers where one end is phillips and one end is flat head. I pulled out the screwdriver part and just used the handle. The barb (without tubing) slid into the handle just enough to go to the first wider ring. I was then able to shove it into the 1/2 inch tubing. Comfortable handle too :) You have to kind hold the barb with your finger as you push.
I am getting my system installed. I have used drip irrigation for many years but some of my beds have changed and it is time for an update. I have enough raised beds to fall into the "large garden" category. I'm also 77, so my hands aren't quite as strong as they used to be. All of my half-inch tubing is installed and I am getting my quarter inch drippers into place. I already had a couple of punches including your pocket punch, but I didn't know about it's additional features. What I found is that it was very awkward to use on my tubing that was nailed down at the heads of my raised beds. I had to put a screwdriver under the tubing and raise it up into the curve of the punch in order to get the hole in the right place. So I went to the local big box store and bought a simple punch, which I found easier to use to get the hole where I wanted it. After watching this video I went onto the big box store website and found that my little $3 punch has insertion features that I didn't know were there. Anyway, I've still got 30+ holes to punch in the raised beds, and more in my in-ground gardens and I found this video very useful. I'll probably wind up with more of your tools as I put in more drip line in other places.
Nadine, you bring up such a good point -- I would agree, the pocket punch would definitely be awkward to use on tubing that is already clamped/secured down. Getting the cradle underneath wouldn't be easy at all. Though not addressed in the video, I'm glad you mentioned it for the comments. The same would apply to the Pro Punch and any of the punches that cradle the tubing. Thank you for that! And that's great about your $3 punch having additional features -- when we were preparing for this video we got all the punches gathered and then started trying to discern all their features -- when doing so, we were surprised that the most inexpensive punch (currently around $0.55) had a lot of features, more than many of the other punches. That's the little orange Key Punch you see in the video. Even more surprising, very little of it was documented anywhere out there (something we found to be true of most punches). Thank you for the fantastic comment Nadine, I truly appreciate you taking the time, others will read it and will save themselves some time trying to punch tubing already clamped down with a cradle punch.
Thank you! Can you display or link a "how to properly remove a goof plug?" I often damage my tubes and end up repairing the damage with a coupler. Thanks again!
Martin, this is a great suggestion -- I don't think there is currently a resource showing how to remove a goof plug. That could be because, for the most part, they're not meant to be, but I'm all for saving on materials and will reuse anything I can lol. With that in mind, I do have a couple suggestions to help with their removal -- I've had reasonable success in going this route (though sometimes do need to use a coupling as well). 1. Try to remove it when the tubing is coldest, like early in the morning or late in the evening -- the tubing will be in its thermal contraction state at that time, so instead of stretching when the goof plug is pulled on it, it has a better chance to "pop" out. 2. Try to pull straight out as much as possible -- sometimes I'll use a pair of needle-nose pliers to grab ahold of one end and then pull straight out. That along with cold, contracted tubing has yielded me the best results. 3. You can try using the small end of the goof plug first (if you're not already). The larger end is bigger than the barb on drippers and is very difficult to remove without making the hole unusable. 4. After you remove the goof plug, let that portion of the tubing sit in the sun, or just generally get warm -- the thermal expansion of warm tubing will help the hole shrink up to a workable size :) I'll see about getting this added to our list of "quick tip" videos we do, definitely a lack of how to remove goof plug information out there!
@dripdepot I asked the wrong question. When recently making a "how to" drip video I noticed I damaged the main tube trying to remove emmitters as well as goof plugs. So my question should have been "how to properly remove emmitters and goof plugs to avoid damaging the main tubing." I will try your suggestion as it applies to either scenario. Sorry for the confusion and thank you for your quick response! 😍
@@SouthCarolinaTransPlant Perfect! And yep, the information should apply for drippers as well as goof plugs -- better for drippers even since they don't have a side with an extra large barb. With drippers, the pull straight out when cold method has a high success rate 😁
Slightly confused about best practices for tube temperature for various steps in the process. -you leave rolled up tubing out in the sun to warm it up to help it uncoil and lay flat as you lay it in the beds -you cool it down so holes are punched in it with a snap and you don’t deform the tubing or stretch the hole. -you warm it back up if comparable size fittings go into the sane size tubing. Does one of the punches not deform the hole and cut cleanly through? I’m installing this in a south Florida garden and it’s never cooling down in my neck of the woods. Ever.
This is a great question -- I'll start off by saying that, technically, any and all of the work can be done at pretty much any reasonable temperature, those tips are more for beginners to make it easier on them. Even a beginner could, for example, lay out tubing when it's cold, it's just going to be a bit of a struggle until they get the experience. Due to production schedules, we ourselves have often have to go against these tips and punch holes in the heat, connect fittings in the cold, etc. Even as someone experienced I prefer doing them at the recommended temperatures/times of day though :) To your actual question, we do have a punch that's fairly new to us that I'd say fits the description -- this punch is much sharper than the others so is much less likely to bend/push the tubing and much more likely to simply pierce it. Perhaps even better, it has a metal tip (very durable) and is one of the more inexpensive punches. Here is the link to that sharp punch: www.dripdepot.com/18982
This channel is always very informative! Thanks!!!
Martin, thank you for the kind words =D I watched your "Drip 123 A to Z" video, you have fantastic presentation skills, I'm glad you're out there making videos for the gardening community!
@dripdepot Thanks for watching my video! I'm merely passing on information that I learn from you and the other creators I follow! We'd be lost without you guys! I'm still green and suffer from stage fright! 😱 Thanks for your kind words!
@@SouthCarolinaTransPlant You'd never know you were suffering stage fright watching your video! Good clear presentation and a great voice aesthetic -- I think most performers suffer stage fright to some degree (I do at times!) -- it's a fake-it til ya make-it kind of thing when it comes to public speaking haha.
I hope you keep making great content!
We needed something to insert 1/4 inch barbs into 1/2 inch tubing. This was helpful to see what worked! We ended up being able to use the handle of a screwdriver with removable attachments
That's awesome! Did you use the screw driver socket to hold the barb while you pushed? If so, that's a fantastic tip to share! Pushing in 1/4" barbs ends up being a big obstacle for lots of folks, the more tips in our arsenal the better :)
@@dripdepot I had one of those screw drivers where one end is phillips and one end is flat head. I pulled out the screwdriver part and just used the handle. The barb (without tubing) slid into the handle just enough to go to the first wider ring. I was then able to shove it into the 1/2 inch tubing. Comfortable handle too :) You have to kind hold the barb with your finger as you push.
I am getting my system installed. I have used drip irrigation for many years but some of my beds have changed and it is time for an update. I have enough raised beds to fall into the "large garden" category. I'm also 77, so my hands aren't quite as strong as they used to be. All of my half-inch tubing is installed and I am getting my quarter inch drippers into place.
I already had a couple of punches including your pocket punch, but I didn't know about it's additional features. What I found is that it was very awkward to use on my tubing that was nailed down at the heads of my raised beds. I had to put a screwdriver under the tubing and raise it up into the curve of the punch in order to get the hole in the right place. So I went to the local big box store and bought a simple punch, which I found easier to use to get the hole where I wanted it. After watching this video I went onto the big box store website and found that my little $3 punch has insertion features that I didn't know were there.
Anyway, I've still got 30+ holes to punch in the raised beds, and more in my in-ground gardens and I found this video very useful. I'll probably wind up with more of your tools as I put in more drip line in other places.
Nadine, you bring up such a good point -- I would agree, the pocket punch would definitely be awkward to use on tubing that is already clamped/secured down. Getting the cradle underneath wouldn't be easy at all. Though not addressed in the video, I'm glad you mentioned it for the comments. The same would apply to the Pro Punch and any of the punches that cradle the tubing. Thank you for that!
And that's great about your $3 punch having additional features -- when we were preparing for this video we got all the punches gathered and then started trying to discern all their features -- when doing so, we were surprised that the most inexpensive punch (currently around $0.55) had a lot of features, more than many of the other punches. That's the little orange Key Punch you see in the video. Even more surprising, very little of it was documented anywhere out there (something we found to be true of most punches).
Thank you for the fantastic comment Nadine, I truly appreciate you taking the time, others will read it and will save themselves some time trying to punch tubing already clamped down with a cradle punch.
Thank you! Can you display or link a "how to properly remove a goof plug?" I often damage my tubes and end up repairing the damage with a coupler. Thanks again!
Martin, this is a great suggestion -- I don't think there is currently a resource showing how to remove a goof plug. That could be because, for the most part, they're not meant to be, but I'm all for saving on materials and will reuse anything I can lol.
With that in mind, I do have a couple suggestions to help with their removal -- I've had reasonable success in going this route (though sometimes do need to use a coupling as well).
1. Try to remove it when the tubing is coldest, like early in the morning or late in the evening -- the tubing will be in its thermal contraction state at that time, so instead of stretching when the goof plug is pulled on it, it has a better chance to "pop" out.
2. Try to pull straight out as much as possible -- sometimes I'll use a pair of needle-nose pliers to grab ahold of one end and then pull straight out. That along with cold, contracted tubing has yielded me the best results.
3. You can try using the small end of the goof plug first (if you're not already). The larger end is bigger than the barb on drippers and is very difficult to remove without making the hole unusable.
4. After you remove the goof plug, let that portion of the tubing sit in the sun, or just generally get warm -- the thermal expansion of warm tubing will help the hole shrink up to a workable size :)
I'll see about getting this added to our list of "quick tip" videos we do, definitely a lack of how to remove goof plug information out there!
@dripdepot I asked the wrong question. When recently making a "how to" drip video I noticed I damaged the main tube trying to remove emmitters as well as goof plugs. So my question should have been "how to properly remove emmitters and goof plugs to avoid damaging the main tubing." I will try your suggestion as it applies to either scenario. Sorry for the confusion and thank you for your quick response! 😍
@@SouthCarolinaTransPlant Perfect! And yep, the information should apply for drippers as well as goof plugs -- better for drippers even since they don't have a side with an extra large barb. With drippers, the pull straight out when cold method has a high success rate 😁
Slightly confused about best practices for tube temperature for various steps in the process.
-you leave rolled up tubing out in the sun to warm it up to help it uncoil and lay flat as you lay it in the beds
-you cool it down so holes are punched in it with a snap and you don’t deform the tubing or stretch the hole.
-you warm it back up if comparable size fittings go into the sane size tubing.
Does one of the punches not deform the hole and cut cleanly through? I’m installing this in a south Florida garden and it’s never cooling down in my neck of the woods. Ever.
This is a great question -- I'll start off by saying that, technically, any and all of the work can be done at pretty much any reasonable temperature, those tips are more for beginners to make it easier on them. Even a beginner could, for example, lay out tubing when it's cold, it's just going to be a bit of a struggle until they get the experience. Due to production schedules, we ourselves have often have to go against these tips and punch holes in the heat, connect fittings in the cold, etc. Even as someone experienced I prefer doing them at the recommended temperatures/times of day though :)
To your actual question, we do have a punch that's fairly new to us that I'd say fits the description -- this punch is much sharper than the others so is much less likely to bend/push the tubing and much more likely to simply pierce it. Perhaps even better, it has a metal tip (very durable) and is one of the more inexpensive punches. Here is the link to that sharp punch: www.dripdepot.com/18982
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