I am presently replacing the muffler/tailpipe on a 1970 VW Bus, which had a totally different muffler assembly that had no connections for the heater boxes. This video has been an absolute lifesaver for me!!!! I have watched it three (OK 4) times now. Paused it, taken pictures, driven to where my bus is stored, a few times now. And....it is now installed. Thank you so very much for this video.
Pulled my engine out of '64 bug, and even before I had a Volkswagen I'd been watching Mustie wrench. So many of his VW specific videos are indispensable for someone who owns one. This video in particular, is helping me to get the exhaust correctly set up so nothing leaks. Also the tip about using a cold chisel to split the nuts that hold the heater boxes and exhaust onto the heads so you don't snap the studs off in the head is amazing. Saved me so many headaches. Mustie, thank you again, for all you do. Your videos are a Godsend.
Wow, this was excellent! I watch many of these videos about fixing aircooled VW's and this one was very clear and straight foreword. Extremely good, in-focus video that really showed exactly what to do. I'll be replacing the muffler on a 1971 Ghia with confidence now.
Just started working on a special, consistently driven '68 bug. Tried fixing leaks on the aftermarket exhaust and every issue that I've run into was covered in this video! Thank you big time mustie!
Mustie, Aero Mike from Illinois. Noticed you doing a fine job replacing mufflers on buses, bugs, split windows, etc, we had a wonderful product at the airline called "neversieze". It was a dark colored gray, moly based lube for spark plugs. Can you imagine the numbers of plugs on a 4 row, of cylinders, two plugs per jug, it can get a bit insane. But my point is that we would use this stuff on exhaust clamps, lines and hardware under cars and trucks, especially there in New England, salt air, well, you know. Anyway, the can we got, we'd drill a 1/2" hole in the lid, and place an acid brush in the lube, real handy-like. It took a little smear on the threads of bolts, and clamps. Works real nice on nuts attached to brake lines, places beneath vechicles subject to rusting. This stuff reminds me of that Bar-Chain oil you use, for the same reason. Only thing is, when you are assembling new mufflers, new bolts on carbs, just any possible senario you might have. I'd send you a picture of a can, but don't know your numbers. "Neversieze" is the real deal. It is moly-based, and it will get you hands blackened. But the stuff is predictable, it never siezes, never breaks down, waterproof, and great for marine use, too. Use gloves keep it off skin. When you go to remove your equipment hardware, it'll come off like "almost too easy". Sure, it'll take a bit longer to assemble your jobs, but the effort is worth it. Keep the faith Mustie, Sincerely, another wrench from Illinois.
That is such a nice looking bus, top and bottom. My wife has wanted a bus/camper or a beetle since she was a teen. Now if that ever happens I know who to turn to for how to videos..... thanks for all the great info! I'm gonna go subscribe now.
Watching this vlog really makes me miss my 1972 1/2 Bus that had the same color scheme. Great on mpg unless you had a headwind, especially if you were going uphill in Kentucky mountains like I had to in 79 when I got transferred from Coast Guard Airstation Traverse City Michigan to Airstation Miami. I thought I'd have to have my tiny red head irish Wife get out and push us up those mountains 😅😅😎
Nice job great explanation. One other trick I've seen for removing the studs if they break off is to heat it then put candle wax on it which wicks down on the threads. Not sure if that might work for the nuts as well.
Thank you so much for all your videos @mustie1. I love them all and greatly appreciate it. I’m just about to do this job and I’m so glad to have you as my teacher.
I like to put molybdenum infused oil on all threads old and new. The oil may burn away, but the molybdenum stays behind, making it easier to remove in the future, it also slows rust and corrosion .
Nice work. I make it a habit to "crack" those 13mm nuts loose and retighten them again every time I lay eyes on them so they never seize. I also keep them coated with copper anti-seize. The exhaust heat "flows" the anti-seize into the threads.
Nice job on the muffler, i had a super and they don't have heat risers for the carb. Like I needs to tell ya that. Anyway the new muffler comes with stoppers to block those off. In case anybody wants to no later on in the years to come :) Ps. Thanks fer the ride part of the vid, brings back mems. I fer got how dim those old lites really are Lolo :)
Again with getting the screws of heat risers started, the 7-year-old (tm) is a very useful tool. In other words, I basically spent my childhood doing stuff that was a little too fiddley for adult hands.
Good video as I am rebuilding a 1641 dual Port motor that had a muffler with two tailpipes on it which is no good I'll be replacing with one that only has one tailpipe which I was wondering about until I saw this video
Knowing how to do something is great, but knowing how to clearly explain the steps is a special skill. Very nice. Would you please recommend a muffler for our '64 double cab? We are hoping for muffler that might increase performance and have nice throaty sound. I think I can do it following your instructions. Thanks.
Looking at the exhaust heat riser I was wondering if they made an aftermarket one that has some sort of thermostat to regulate the heat in warm weather when it's not needed. I'm thinking back to American cars with the warm air riser in the snorkel on the air filter assembly. Some V8's had the crossover on the exhaust manifold with a thermostatic valve that routed heat up thru the intake manifold under the carburetor and exited out the other exhaust manifold. Seems like those exhaust heat pipes in the engine compartment would add extra heat where it shouldn't be. Just trying to learn something about these motors.
watched a bunch of your videos and have really enjoyed them (3 bugs over the years - none now). anyway i noticed a number of times you've identified various parts as of "german" origin as opposed, i suppose, to chinese or mexican. i can well imagine the chinese stuff is probably borderline junk, but was wondering about mexican parts since they were manufacturing v-dubs long after the germans shut down. so is it merely that the german sourced parts are better than the others?
Love your videos. This is one of the best. I noticed oil on top of #2 engine tin. Where is that leak coming from and why? What’s the fix? I have the same issue on my 1600 sp
This video brings me right back to my apprentice days. You did the job just like i remember it. Only one was missed, the 8 mill nuts with the built-in helicoils? First chiseling away the nut and then the helicoil. Was that never used in the US?
Found this on a german site for vw spareparts: www.vwbusshop.de/epages/GuenzlClassicParts.sf/en_GB/?ViewObjectPath=%2FShops%2FGuenzlClassicParts%2FProducts%2F311101463 That's the type of nuts the muffler was mounted from the factory in Germany. Don't know if your bus came from another factory, maybe Mexico. Anyway thanks for the video.
Darrin, I think you posted a Tundra exhaust replacement somewhere. Couldn't find it. But, did you have to replace one or both of your exhaust manifolds? My son just picked one up with a right side slight leak, probably a crack in the manifold.
learned I was missing the "swoopy" brace that holds the pipe to the end of the muffler, and also, how to route the ground cable off the battery...time to clean that up in my 67...
The one thing no one does anymore that was common back when I was wrenching professionally some 45 years ago is use brass nuts on exhaust manifold studs. With A brass nut you won't have the nut and stud rust themselves into one unit. They are also much easier to chisel off or if one can get A nut splitter on the nut it will come off like A hot knife through butter. If worst comes to worst A gas ax will melt off A brass nut leaving the stud untouched. If you have bolts instead of nuts on your exhaust manifold replacing them with brass bolts will give you A better chance of getting them out if they break off. Much easier to drill out. The big problem with brass hardware is finding it. It was common many years ago but has vanished from most auto parts stores because it is more expensive than steel and just about everybody buys steel so stores won't stock it. I get mine from A hardware supply company owned by A fellow I went to high school with. Heating up A steel nut with A gas ax to red hot and using an impact wrench (electric or air. Your call) will usually remove A recalcitrant nut but be careful you don't set your rig on fire! And A real oxy/ acetylene torch is necessary as propane just can't get steel hot enough. A oxy/propane rig might but I have never used one. Good luck! And I like your vids Mustie! you have A lot of energy and talent and you use it well!
Thanks for the tip regarding brass nuts, can't beat experience! I'll definitely be using them ( I work for a fastener company so easy to get hold of them ) .
Frozen nuts? Heat, penetrating oil, impact vibration to aid in removal, for replacement I use stainless steel nuts and anti seize compond on exhaust studs; the nuts will come off thereafter very easy!
Very nice, sounded smashing on the road too :-D So there is no real fix for rusty nuts (he he), brass ones or add copperslip to the threads just dont work i suppose. I vote for running away screaming with your hands in the air lol :-D.
Hey Musti, I know it is old, but you are still THE VW guy, so: Would in increase performance on a bus if the rear bumper was cut to allow a Beetle (twin pipe) muffler (all things being equal)?
not to seem mean, while the exhaust clamps are design correct for beetle, the rear engine support for bus interferes with installing those kind of clamps, and funny enough bus exhaust clamps are about 30.00 per set and are a different design.( and becoming hard to source.)
HMM, could you take a beetle muffler, trim the factory tips off and add 2 tailpipes to get dual exhausts? Just looks like the single tip could be restrictive and cause more heat build up in the engine bay.
Hello Mustie1 and fello VW enthusiasts, if I don't plan on drivng my VW in the winter, how important is it to have a heater riser?? Can I drive the car without damaging the engine/performance?
A mechanic friend of mine has a very expensive hot induction tool for dealing with rusty nuts, works a treat, but unless you are a full time spanner monkey working on old cars/vans/trucks daily, the expense of it might not be justified, it was about £700, and that was an ex demo model, ouch
What do you do when your heat riser is really far away from the top of the muffler? I have everything loose and I'm thinking of using vise grips to draw the bottom of the heat riser down.
the bad luck i have with these beetle stock replacement mufflers as the inlet pipes where the mini heat exchangers attach they always crack there and when i take the muffler off they fall down. I have a 68 beetle went with an all 304 stainless steel exhaust system mainly in the header the muffler i had to get custom made as its a EMPI 304 stainless header but the turbo muffler was too loud as i wanted it quiet as stock as i want something thats going to last a very long time than the OE stock vw air-cooled mufflers . as there is no rust spots whatsover with 304 stainless. as it flows better than stock as all the exhaust gasses enter into one collector on the header and go into the muffler just like on modern vehicles unlike the stock air-cooled vw type 1 and type 2 up to 1971 as all 4 pipes from the cylinders go into one muffler. with this exhaust the motor revs more smoother and quickly as its an all stainless system the header J tubes and muffler as im not sure if they make the main heat exchangers or heater boxes that are long lasting stainless steel as you will never have to replace them ever again unless you have to tear the engine down for a rebuild. the exhaust system on 1975 and later bugs are completely different as the california models have a catalytic converter on them. the mexican made bugs up to 2003 had the early style heat exchangers and the muffler assembly has the mini heat exchangers as all the pipes ran into the area where the catalytic converter is as the catalytic converter and muffler is in one unit on the mexican beetles till the very end.
Walk in the park for a guy who knows air-cooled inside & out! ;) My VW TDi leaves the cooling fan on just to cool down the exhaust (cat/muffler etc = burning smell)
I was wondering why you've opted for another Bus muffler than a Bug muffler. I've heard that the Bug Muffler has better breathing than the Bus muffler.
I am presently replacing the muffler/tailpipe on a 1970 VW Bus, which had a totally different muffler assembly that had no connections for the heater boxes. This video has been an absolute lifesaver for me!!!! I have watched it three (OK 4) times now. Paused it, taken pictures, driven to where my bus is stored, a few times now. And....it is now installed.
Thank you so very much for this video.
Pulled my engine out of '64 bug, and even before I had a Volkswagen I'd been watching Mustie wrench. So many of his VW specific videos are indispensable for someone who owns one. This video in particular, is helping me to get the exhaust correctly set up so nothing leaks. Also the tip about using a cold chisel to split the nuts that hold the heater boxes and exhaust onto the heads so you don't snap the studs off in the head is amazing. Saved me so many headaches.
Mustie, thank you again, for all you do. Your videos are a Godsend.
Wow, this was excellent! I watch many of these videos about fixing aircooled VW's and this one was very clear and straight foreword. Extremely good, in-focus video that really showed exactly what to do. I'll be replacing the muffler on a 1971 Ghia with confidence now.
Just started working on a special, consistently driven '68 bug. Tried fixing leaks on the aftermarket exhaust and every issue that I've run into was covered in this video! Thank you big time mustie!
Mustie, Aero Mike from Illinois. Noticed you doing a fine job replacing mufflers on buses, bugs, split windows, etc, we had a wonderful product at the airline called "neversieze". It was a dark colored gray, moly based lube for spark plugs. Can you imagine the numbers of plugs on a 4 row, of cylinders, two plugs per jug, it can get a bit insane. But my point is that we would use this stuff on exhaust clamps, lines and hardware under cars and trucks, especially there in New England, salt air, well, you know. Anyway, the can we got, we'd drill a 1/2" hole in the lid, and place an acid brush in the lube, real handy-like. It took a little smear on the threads of bolts, and clamps. Works real nice on nuts attached to brake lines, places beneath vechicles subject to rusting. This stuff reminds me of that Bar-Chain oil you use, for the same reason. Only thing is, when you are assembling new mufflers, new bolts on carbs, just any possible senario you might have. I'd send you a picture of a can, but don't know your numbers. "Neversieze" is the real deal. It is moly-based, and it will get you hands blackened. But the stuff is predictable, it never siezes, never breaks down, waterproof, and great for marine use, too. Use gloves keep it off skin. When you go to remove your equipment hardware, it'll come off like "almost too easy". Sure, it'll take a bit longer to assemble your jobs, but the effort is worth it. Keep the faith Mustie, Sincerely, another wrench from Illinois.
Don't know how much feed back you get? But I enjoy every vidio you put out! learn a lot thanks.
In Germany in the early 70"s Copper Paste was included in the muffler kit, to be used on all nutz and bolz.
a great video done by a man who knows what he is talking about and loves what he's doing !
This brings back so many memories doing these in high school in the mid 80s
you and me both
Brings back some bad memories. I can't tell you how many head studs I broke replacing mufflers.
That is such a nice looking bus, top and bottom. My wife has wanted a bus/camper or a beetle since she was a teen. Now if that ever happens I know who to turn to for how to videos..... thanks for all the great info! I'm gonna go subscribe now.
Loved the real bonus at the end - happy cruising!
thanks it was a nice ride
darin. she sounds as good as she did when she was new! well done!
Just fitted a new one on our 71 bay was well watching your video. before I started thanks
Watching this vlog really makes me miss my 1972 1/2 Bus that had the same color scheme.
Great on mpg unless you had a headwind, especially if you were going uphill in Kentucky mountains like I had to in 79 when I got transferred from Coast Guard Airstation Traverse City Michigan to Airstation Miami.
I thought I'd have to have my tiny red head irish Wife get out and push us up those mountains 😅😅😎
If I may, heating those cylinder head nuts till they're cherry red also facilitates their removal. Excellent tutorial.
mustie I will never get a VW but I love watching you work on them.
thanks
Nice job great explanation. One other trick I've seen for removing the studs if they break off is to heat it then put candle wax on it which wicks down on the threads. Not sure if that might work for the nuts as well.
As far as that pan. goes that is dented up you'd be amazed how easy it is to take the spot welds out fix the dent and weld it back together
Thank you so much for all your videos @mustie1. I love them all and greatly appreciate it. I’m just about to do this job and I’m so glad to have you as my teacher.
Thanks!
I like to put molybdenum infused oil on all threads old and new. The oil may burn away, but the molybdenum stays behind, making it easier to remove in the future, it also slows rust and corrosion .
Nice work. I make it a habit to "crack" those 13mm nuts loose and retighten them again every time I lay eyes on them so they never seize. I also keep them coated with copper anti-seize. The exhaust heat "flows" the anti-seize into the threads.
Nice job on the muffler, i had a super and they don't have heat risers for the carb. Like I needs to tell ya that. Anyway the new muffler comes with stoppers to block those off. In case anybody wants to no later on in the years to come :)
Ps. Thanks fer the ride part of the vid, brings back mems. I fer got how dim those old lites really are Lolo :)
Very nice and well done instructional video! I was hoping to see you cut up the old one just to see the deterioration inside?!
Good how to video Darren.
Yes this would have saved me a lot of trial and error changing out my muffler on my '73 super beetle lol. Thanks for the info
Great instructional video! Thanks Mustie
Nice work. It was well worth the watch thanks!
OK, I have all the info I need to change the muffler on our Westfalia. Video to follow. It is so pretty up there this time of the year.
Great Video - incredibly helpful 👍
Again with getting the screws of heat risers started, the 7-year-old (tm) is a very useful tool. In other words, I basically spent my childhood doing stuff that was a little too fiddley for adult hands.
Very nice presentation!
These VW's look easy to work on👍🤣😊
Good video as I am rebuilding a 1641 dual Port motor that had a muffler with two tailpipes on it which is no good I'll be replacing with one that only has one tailpipe which I was wondering about until I saw this video
Good job and clearly shown.
Knowing how to do something is great, but knowing how to clearly explain the steps is a special skill. Very nice. Would you please recommend a muffler for our '64 double cab? We are hoping for muffler that might increase performance and have nice throaty sound. I think I can do it following your instructions. Thanks.
Outstanding video. Thanks!
Looking at the exhaust heat riser I was wondering if they made an aftermarket one that has some sort of thermostat to regulate the heat in warm weather when it's not needed. I'm thinking back to American cars with the warm air riser in the snorkel on the air filter assembly. Some V8's had the crossover on the exhaust manifold with a thermostatic valve that routed heat up thru the intake manifold under the carburetor and exited out the other exhaust manifold. Seems like those exhaust heat pipes in the engine compartment would add extra heat where it shouldn't be. Just trying to learn something about these motors.
Cool! a new VW vid.
I changed heat exchangers on my 63 beetle without pulling the motor. Doable, but a PITA.
watched a bunch of your videos and have really enjoyed them (3 bugs over the years - none now). anyway i noticed a number of times you've identified various parts as of "german" origin as opposed, i suppose, to chinese or mexican. i can well imagine the chinese stuff is probably borderline junk, but was wondering about mexican parts since they were manufacturing v-dubs long after the germans shut down. so is it merely that the german sourced parts are better than the others?
the tooling was pretty warn by the time mexico got it and quality control is not as good, but its better then nothing,
Thanks for the VIDEO Mustie1...
Love your videos. This is one of the best.
I noticed oil on top of #2 engine tin. Where is that leak coming from and why? What’s the fix? I have the same issue on my 1600 sp
Never seize a mechanics best friend.
nice vid. great instructions. 👍
thanks
I actually have to do this soon on my 72, so thanks for the video.
hope it helps
This video brings me right back to my apprentice days. You did the job just like i remember it.
Only one was missed, the 8 mill nuts with the built-in helicoils?
First chiseling away the nut and then the helicoil.
Was that never used in the US?
ive never seen it
Found this on a german site for vw spareparts:
www.vwbusshop.de/epages/GuenzlClassicParts.sf/en_GB/?ViewObjectPath=%2FShops%2FGuenzlClassicParts%2FProducts%2F311101463
That's the type of nuts the muffler was mounted from the factory in Germany.
Don't know if your bus came from another factory, maybe Mexico.
Anyway thanks for the video.
i was always wondering if a fastback pancake motor deulport with two single solexes carbs fit cause it simular setup in the 1968 one i had
Great vid. Is there no firewall between the engine and gas tank on that year? My Bay has one.
A trick on rusty studs and buts is to heat them with a torch and apply some paraffin wax. Works great.
Herman Kachold what does that do? I mean, how does that work? Just curious.
Maybe it's a good idea to find some stainless stud/nut exhaust hardware?
Good job, do you remember the air scoops on bus back in the 70's? And do you think they helped with cooling much?
l think they were a bandaid for another problem
Like the tins let hot air rise. Like you talked about.
Darrin, I think you posted a Tundra exhaust replacement somewhere. Couldn't find it. But, did you have to replace one or both of your exhaust manifolds? My son just picked one up with a right side slight leak, probably a crack in the manifold.
How well does the heat work in one of those vws?
learned I was missing the "swoopy" brace that holds the pipe to the end of the muffler, and also, how to route the ground cable off the battery...time to clean that up in my 67...
Nice video. Thanks.
would it help to replace those bolts and nuts with stainless ones??? Jack
Great video, thank you!!
The one thing no one does anymore that was common back when I was wrenching professionally some 45 years ago is use brass nuts on exhaust manifold studs. With A brass nut you won't have the nut and stud rust themselves into one unit. They are also much easier to chisel off or if one can get A nut splitter on the nut it will come off like A hot knife through butter. If worst comes to worst A gas ax will melt off A brass nut leaving the stud untouched.
If you have bolts instead of nuts on your exhaust manifold replacing them with brass bolts will give you A better chance of getting them out if they break off. Much easier to drill out.
The big problem with brass hardware is finding it. It was common many years ago but has vanished from most auto parts stores because it is more expensive than steel and just about everybody buys steel so stores won't stock it. I get mine from A hardware supply company owned by A fellow I went to high school with.
Heating up A steel nut with A gas ax to red hot and using an impact wrench (electric or air. Your call) will usually remove A recalcitrant nut but be careful you don't set your rig on fire! And A real oxy/ acetylene torch is necessary as propane just can't get steel hot enough. A oxy/propane rig might but I have never used one.
Good luck! And I like your vids Mustie! you have A lot of energy and talent and you use it well!
Thanks for the tip regarding brass nuts, can't beat experience! I'll definitely be using them ( I work for a fastener company so easy to get hold of them ) .
Gary Ronan d
Frozen nuts? Heat, penetrating oil, impact vibration to aid in removal, for replacement I use stainless steel nuts and anti seize compond on exhaust studs; the nuts will come off thereafter very easy!
Hey Mustie1, where did you get your brophy knob? Been looking for one, and the ones I've found all kinda suck.
Very nice, sounded smashing on the road too :-D
So there is no real fix for rusty nuts (he he), brass ones or add copperslip to the threads just dont work i suppose.
I vote for running away screaming with your hands in the air lol :-D.
That's another place I would use the high temperature paint is on the heat intakes
Did you apply antiseize on the nut and bolts?.
no its just burns off
You can apply copper grease in spray, it won't burn off :)
Permatex Copper Anti-Sieze is good up to 1,800°. Their Nickel Anti-Sieze is good up to 2400°.
Can you clean out the heat risers with the intake still on the vehicle?
if you remove the muffler
Hey Musti, I know it is old, but you are still THE VW guy, so: Would in increase performance on a bus if the rear bumper was cut to allow a Beetle (twin pipe) muffler (all things being equal)?
Now I know how to put a muffler on a beetle/bus, cool! Does that heating system put out good heat if the system is in good working order?
on a bus not so much but the smaller cars its ok
Are you going to the Winnikenni show this Sunday? I'm bringing the Sonett and 96. Somehow..
im hoping so, as long as its not too hot,
Nice job sir :)
thanks
Was that a German made muffler? Seemed to fit pretty good.. Take Care
yes the good stuff
Nice vid on lucy.
thanks
not to seem mean, while the exhaust clamps are design correct for beetle, the rear engine support for bus interferes with installing those kind of clamps, and funny enough bus exhaust clamps are about 30.00 per set and are a different design.( and becoming hard to source.)
they fit just fine
HMM, could you take a beetle muffler, trim the factory tips off and add 2 tailpipes to get dual exhausts? Just looks like the single tip could be restrictive and cause more heat build up in the engine bay.
thats what was done on crusty, sounds great
I thought you had done one like that.
Great. Can do that. Why is the left weel running and not the right side when you start. Just looking at it on the end.
differential, if you grab the spinning wheel it will spin the other side
+Mustie1 got it. Thank you.
Hello Mustie1 and fello VW enthusiasts, if I don't plan on drivng my VW in the winter, how important is it to have a heater riser?? Can I drive the car without damaging the engine/performance?
Where can I find the self tapping threads for the heat exchange tubes? Do you know what size they are?
Cool
is there a reason you don't utilize the rear engine mount that bolts close to the center of the motor.some people call it the mustache bracket.
this is a splitty, only bay windows have that
Did that fuel filter use to be clear? Or does it run on merlot?
there kinda tan new but that ones getting dirty
get how 2 video buddy well done
Do you try to take the sticker off the muffler?
That's Lucy, right? She is Gorgeous.
A mechanic friend of mine has a very expensive hot induction tool for dealing with rusty nuts, works a treat, but unless you are a full time spanner monkey working on old cars/vans/trucks daily, the expense of it might not be justified, it was about £700, and that was an ex demo model, ouch
Coat the stud threads with Never-seez as you reassemble and they never freeze up again.
What do you do when your heat riser is really far away from the top of the muffler? I have everything loose and I'm thinking of using vise grips to draw the bottom of the heat riser down.
engine bay is suprisingly compact an still roomy to work on.
the bad luck i have with these beetle stock replacement mufflers as the inlet pipes where the mini heat exchangers attach they always crack there and when i take the muffler off they fall down. I have a 68 beetle went with an all 304 stainless steel exhaust system mainly in the header the muffler i had to get custom made as its a EMPI 304 stainless header but the turbo muffler was too loud as i wanted it quiet as stock as i want something thats going to last a very long time than the OE stock vw air-cooled mufflers . as there is no rust spots whatsover with 304 stainless. as it flows better than stock as all the exhaust gasses enter into one collector on the header and go into the muffler just like on modern vehicles unlike the stock air-cooled vw type 1 and type 2 up to 1971 as all 4 pipes from the cylinders go into one muffler. with this exhaust the motor revs more smoother and quickly as its an all stainless system the header J tubes and muffler as im not sure if they make the main heat exchangers or heater boxes that are long lasting stainless steel as you will never have to replace them ever again unless you have to tear the engine down for a rebuild. the exhaust system on 1975 and later bugs are completely different as the california models have a catalytic converter on them. the mexican made bugs up to 2003 had the early style heat exchangers and the muffler assembly has the mini heat exchangers as all the pipes ran into the area where the catalytic converter is as the catalytic converter and muffler is in one unit on the mexican beetles till the very end.
Walk in the park for a guy who knows air-cooled inside & out! ;) My VW TDi leaves the cooling fan on just to cool down the exhaust (cat/muffler etc = burning smell)
i believe there is a rust hole in the side of the heater box... most likely where the leak is comming from.
no thats just the outer skin
Don't see any oil dripping off the bottom of your motor. Better check it.
l wiped it down before filming
Oh! That's cleaver..
Funny
the video showed the right heater box was rotted out i hope you changed that too
not that bad the outer skin is not exhaust
does this work if you have a Porsche engine in a bus in Colorado?
theyre all pretty much the same
thanks Donald or whatever your given name is :) Chuck
mustie I can't find final fate of Porche motor from past...did it live?
sold it as it was too costly
I was wondering why you've opted for another Bus muffler than a Bug muffler. I've heard that the Bug Muffler has better breathing than the Bus muffler.
just want it to look stock
Get a grinder and cut the nuts off the head stud, problem solved! Use copper nuts and or anti-seize when replacing. Happy Cruising!
What should I do if I have no heater risers but I have a 4-1 exhaust to fit?
if you are in a hot climate its not an issue but colder weather and you are running a single carb its going to ice up and run poor
So I’ll buy the heat risers do they just push togetherness and sit close the standard carb
How about using brass nuts on the muffler or copper even!!
they do sell them for it
👍🏼 😊
The green wire to your ignition coil resistor looks cracked and soon to fail!
l did say its getting more maintenance