@@normanpaulife Ive been having some issues with the truck turning off when I leave it go down to the IDLE, as well as when I turn on the air conditioner and I'm stopped, the engine just drop revs until turning off.
Thanks Norman Paul. What was that groovy TechnoSpacePorn music? It was like being a casual observer at a robot orgy. In addition to the great soundtrack, your directions/explanations were clear and camera placement/lighting etc. was good/helpful. You do fine work, Sir.
T Williams I had to replay the video to be sure. It’s “Colossus” performed by Scan Globe , it’s German, I downloaded from Free Music Archive. Com before they changed ownership, it’s in the class Kraut Rock. If you’d to hear more of a similar style , check out my parkour video LADY KILLERS, it was originally used there along with several other interesting cuts from Free Music Archive. Thanks again for asking , I enjoy that infectious tune
My truck runs fine, it warms up, then stalls. cranks, and cranks over. It cools down runs fine. I rebuilt the entire electrical system, new fuel filter, new ignition switch under the steering column. Can’t figure it out. It will start with a miss at partial throttle, sometimes if I floor it, it will clear up, and run. other times it just dies. crank and crank. let it sit, it starts right back up. The engine light doesn’t come on, it does work though. 1995 ford f250 351w 143k original. Everything is original on the truck
The computer has two operating mode open loop ( cold engine) and Closed Loop ( operating temperature). What I believe is happening is when the engine reaches operating temperature the computer takes over and begins adjusting the fuel controls and based on sensor data ( possibly faulty sensors) it’s adjusting the fuel too much ( too lean or too rich) and stalling the engine. There are other causes too , perhaps a clogged exhaust! Over heating will shut the engine down , and of course as it cools it allows it to restart. Check you exhaust for flow, check your spark plugs for soot, and check your cooling system for proper level and ensure no vapor locks ( air bubbles ) stopping coolant flow
@@chuyalvarez2322 the idle speed is controlled by the Idle Air Control , IAC . It’s a solenoid that acts like a choke, it closes an air passage to help the vehicle start , and opens when the vehicle reaches operating temperature. It’s controlled by the computer that reads sensors such as the coolant temperature to determine when the engine is warmed up enough. You can start by testing your IAC , but realize the computer is in charge of idle speed and it must have proper inputs
The TPS on the truck is on the bottom and completely inaccessible. Many others the TPS is on the top. It has Phillips head screws , “IF” it was possible to remove it with a right angle screwdriver or apex bit, the time it would and risk of stripping the screws would certainly not be worth it. If it was a bet , or a challenge I could probably do it. I was aircraft mechanic for 26 years in the Air Force , replaced much more challenging things because you can’t just remove a Jet Engine to replace a simple component.
Thank you !!!! Keep watching I have recorded a much more thorough collection of related topics , and I’m adding to it with fuel injection system cleaning and rebuild
Whoever put the tps on last put it on wrong and you installed it wrong too. The ford FSM says on the 5.0 and 5.8 the wiring coming out of the tps should face the IAC you went the other way, just letting you know and others so they install it correctly .
Double check your signal voltage, from your ECM, I Believe it’s the center pin and most likely 5 volts . If the input is high, you have an ECM ( computer ) problem that needs to be corrected first. Check the wires for opens, shorts to grounds and especially in your case a short to power !
Also some not all TPS have adjustments and be certain it is installed correctly ( the detent is properly engaged) . And the rotation is correct ( original) direction
Test your TPS with a multimeter . The TPS has a direct connection to the engine performance and therefore will directly affect the transmission through the ECM ( computer) .
@@normanpaulife you are one of the only channels that promotes that fact! Also bad shifting is caused my neutral safty switch on trans too. That would have been cool to start the engine! www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1072528-change-your-mlps-neutral-safety-switch-now.html
Hi sir .I got a 1987 bronco w only 75 k miles. It works fine it just feels really slow I have to hit the gas pedal hard is that normal?I replace the TPS and still doing the same.It does not have a catalytic converter..so do you think the oxygen sensor works even with out tge catalytic converter. Thanks
The oxygen sensor is up stream of the ( missing) catalytic converter, so yes it’s sensing as designed. No it should not lag. It should have quite a bit of power and acceleration. Start with the basics, oil, spark plugs , cap and rotor, air filter. And Fuel filter !!! Then look for vacuum leaks. My experience says many emission sensors are probably not functioning properly. There’s an inexpensive Ford OBD 1 tester you can buy to guide your sensor testing choices
So did that fix it? Yesterday I replaced the MAP sensor, tps, all new gaskets and Idle air valve and it still idles super high unless I unplug the idle air valve. I have tried a few new working Idle air and all does the same thing.
Check your EGR system , your computer is compensating for something that is not working properly. It’s increasing the idle speed to prevent stalling. I recently found the the EGR solenoid seized solid, it’s an easy test. First of all it’s mounted on a metal bracket forward of the ignition coil, if you remove the hoses and blow through the bottom port it should be closed and when energized with 12 volts it would open to allow free flow ( of vacuum) . I will build a video of it, I recorded the tear down, and cleaning to show a possible fix. The part is $55.00 so test and clean if possible. If you need more info fell free
@@normanpaulife thank you, unfortunately as I was leaving NAPA after only getting prices for possible things the truck would need, the bronco wouldn't even start. I'm at NAPA and a friend came to help so we threw a bunch of parts at it. Distributor cap,wires, some vacuum hoses that I could reach, and a new pick up. Long story short even after all that I had to tow it to my house. I messed up somewhere but I don't know where.
I started at a small engine shop at 16 passing wrenches and fetching parts, I learned quite a lot before I was done, so I joined the Air Force and became an Aircraft Mechanic and Crew Chief on B-52’s before I went to school for auto mechanics, frankly I taught myself far more than I learned in school. You can too !!!!
I’m sorry I don’t have that answer, I checked the factory service manual, the only setting is an Adjustment Screw for WOT , wide open throttle. The throttle plates close and seal there’s no gap like engines of earlier time. The IAC controls the idle by metering the air through an orifice and it’s controlled by the computer
Hi Norman, how did you diagnose that the TPS and IAC were bad to begin with? Seems like those same symptoms you listed could also be caused by bad ignition parts, so you probably ruled that stuff out somehow. Could you let me know. I have a rough idle on my 96 and trying to come up with a plan for repair. Thanks.
Rule out the ignition first, by testing or replacing, that engine was a brand new rebuild. I tested the TPS with with a volt meter, the tps is variable resistor, as the throttle is opened and voltage moves linearly. If it drops, flat spots etc it’s bad. The IAC is a choke , If the truck runs rich or stalls after warm up etc it good indication your IAC is sticky. IAC is a motor
@@normanpaulife Is there a schroeder valve where I can plug in a fuel pressure gauge? I just bought this Bronco yesterday so i am still pretty ignorant.
That was my first video , there’s a thorough and complete remake , ready for editing . Thanks for the input, you gave me an idea for my next video , I’ll ( try to) make an slide with illustrations to show the names of parts with a narrative description to enhance the video
@@normanpaulife Yes back then there was only carb and brake cleaners which would etch the coatings that prevented build up of carbons/oils on throttle bodies. Today there are cleaners for throttle bodies. Seafoam and a soft used toothbrush works great. Things change as the science/technologies knowledge changes.
I have read conflicting statements on whether there should be light around the throttle plates when closed. I have a code 411 but aic has been replaced as well as tps and tb gasket besides vacuum lines.
@@rockinhorsefeathers8100 Test your replaced sensors, nowadays there are too many "new" parts that do not work out of the box. Make which generation of codes you have eecv, OBDI or OBDII. They all can mean different things. Also check your wiring and connectors for wear or broken insulation.
That was my first video ( 2 years ago), originally shot for a friend and posted on you tube because my Vimeo account with maxed out. It has currently received 11k views and bringing in approximately 1K a month. I have improved much since then.
Wao man! I was needing a lot to check how to replace the IAC valve, this gave me all the hands-on view I needed to try it myself.
I wish you the best , if you have questions feel free to send a comment
@@normanpaulife Ive been having some issues with the truck turning off when I leave it go down to the IDLE, as well as when I turn on the air conditioner and I'm stopped, the engine just drop revs until turning off.
Thanks Norman Paul. What was that groovy TechnoSpacePorn music? It was like being a casual observer at a robot orgy. In addition to the great soundtrack, your directions/explanations were clear and camera placement/lighting etc. was good/helpful. You do fine work, Sir.
That was my very first video, I have reshot a more advanced version of that video. It’s on the (long) list of videos that need to be edited
T Williams
I had to replay the video to be sure. It’s “Colossus” performed by Scan Globe , it’s German, I downloaded from Free Music Archive. Com before they changed ownership, it’s in the class Kraut Rock. If you’d to hear more of a similar style , check out my parkour video LADY KILLERS, it was originally used there along with several other interesting cuts from Free Music Archive.
Thanks again for asking , I enjoy that infectious tune
My truck runs fine, it warms up, then stalls. cranks, and cranks over. It cools down runs fine.
I rebuilt the entire electrical system, new fuel filter, new ignition switch under the steering column. Can’t figure it out.
It will start with a miss at partial throttle, sometimes if I floor it, it will clear up, and run. other times it just dies. crank and crank. let it sit, it starts right back up.
The engine light doesn’t come on, it does work though.
1995 ford f250 351w 143k original. Everything is original on the truck
The computer has two operating mode open loop ( cold engine) and Closed Loop ( operating temperature). What I believe is happening is when the engine reaches operating temperature the computer takes over and begins adjusting the fuel controls and based on sensor data ( possibly faulty sensors) it’s adjusting the fuel too much ( too lean or too rich) and stalling the engine. There are other causes too , perhaps a clogged exhaust! Over heating will shut the engine down , and of course as it cools it allows it to restart. Check you exhaust for flow, check your spark plugs for soot, and check your cooling system for proper level and ensure no vapor locks ( air bubbles ) stopping coolant flow
After replacing the TPS on my 1994 f-150 5.8L my idle stays at 500 and does not go up unless I hit the gas what could be the issue?
@@chuyalvarez2322 the idle speed is controlled by the Idle Air Control , IAC . It’s a solenoid that acts like a choke, it closes an air passage to help the vehicle start , and opens when the vehicle reaches operating temperature. It’s controlled by the computer that reads sensors such as the coolant temperature to determine when the engine is warmed up enough.
You can start by testing your IAC , but realize the computer is in charge of idle speed and it must have proper inputs
OMG you didnt really remove the entire throttle body to change the tps and IAC did you?
The TPS on the truck is on the bottom and completely inaccessible. Many others the TPS is on the top. It has Phillips head screws , “IF” it was possible to remove it with a right angle screwdriver or apex bit, the time it would and risk of stripping the screws would certainly not be worth it. If it was a bet , or a challenge I could probably do it. I was aircraft mechanic for 26 years in the Air Force , replaced much more challenging things because you can’t just remove a Jet Engine to replace a simple component.
Awesome video! Thanks
Thank you !!!! Keep watching I have recorded a much more thorough collection of related topics , and I’m adding to it with fuel injection system cleaning and rebuild
Whoever put the tps on last put it on wrong and you installed it wrong too. The ford FSM says on the 5.0 and 5.8 the wiring coming out of the tps should face the IAC you went the other way, just letting you know and others so they install it correctly .
That’s great advice ! I’ll change it tomorrow
I changed it , in about 15 minutes, no noticeable difference
My idle is surging. Its driving me crazy.i think i pout mine on wrong so im gonna check it out
What if your codes say the TPS is out of voltage range after installing a new a new TPS?
Double check your signal voltage, from your ECM, I Believe it’s the center pin and most likely 5 volts . If the input is high, you have an ECM ( computer ) problem that needs to be corrected first. Check the wires for opens, shorts to grounds and especially in your case a short to power !
Also some not all TPS have adjustments and be certain it is installed correctly ( the detent is properly engaged) . And the rotation is correct ( original) direction
Does the TPS affect shifting on E4OD? I wonder if this would improve my sluggish shifting as well...
Test your TPS with a multimeter . The TPS has a direct connection to the engine performance and therefore will directly affect the transmission through the ECM ( computer) .
The Computer uses the MAP sensor for adjusting the transmission shift points
@@normanpaulife you are one of the only channels that promotes that fact!
Also bad shifting is caused my neutral safty switch on trans too.
That would have been cool to start the engine!
www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1072528-change-your-mlps-neutral-safety-switch-now.html
I have MAP sensor troubleshooting/ replacement video in work
The TPS absolutely affects E4OD shifting.
What do you do to reset the computer to learn the new IAC valve?
Anytime you disconnect the battery for maintenance, you clear the memory and the computer must relearn the parameters
Hi sir .I got a 1987 bronco w only 75 k miles. It works fine it just feels really slow I have to hit the gas pedal hard is that normal?I replace the TPS and still doing the same.It does not have a catalytic converter..so do you think the oxygen sensor works even with out tge catalytic converter. Thanks
The oxygen sensor is up stream of the ( missing) catalytic converter, so yes it’s sensing as designed. No it should not lag. It should have quite a bit of power and acceleration.
Start with the basics, oil, spark plugs , cap and rotor, air filter. And Fuel filter !!! Then look for vacuum leaks. My experience says many emission sensors are probably not functioning properly. There’s an inexpensive Ford OBD 1 tester you can buy to guide your sensor testing choices
Thanks a lot.I ordered a tester for OBD I is a Lil bit over 200 bucks Hopefully that machine will tell me the codes.Thanks ones again .
So did that fix it? Yesterday I replaced the MAP sensor, tps, all new gaskets and Idle air valve and it still idles super high unless I unplug the idle air valve. I have tried a few new working Idle air and all does the same thing.
Check your EGR system , your computer is compensating for something that is not working properly. It’s increasing the idle speed to prevent stalling. I recently found the the EGR solenoid seized solid, it’s an easy test. First of all it’s mounted on a metal bracket forward of the ignition coil, if you remove the hoses and blow through the bottom port it should be closed and when energized with 12 volts it would open to allow free flow ( of vacuum) . I will build a video of it, I recorded the tear down, and cleaning to show a possible fix. The part is $55.00 so test and clean if possible. If you need more info fell free
@@normanpaulife ok thank you, ill try to figure that out. I am NOT a mechanic by any means so these TH-cam videos are what im going off of.
We all start at the same place, we try and we learn as we go, good luck and don’t give up ! Soon you’ll be a mechanic
@@normanpaulife thank you, unfortunately as I was leaving NAPA after only getting prices for possible things the truck would need, the bronco wouldn't even start. I'm at NAPA and a friend came to help so we threw a bunch of parts at it. Distributor cap,wires, some vacuum hoses that I could reach, and a new pick up. Long story short even after all that I had to tow it to my house. I messed up somewhere but I don't know where.
I started at a small engine shop at 16 passing wrenches and fetching parts, I learned quite a lot before I was done, so I joined the Air Force and became an Aircraft Mechanic and Crew Chief on B-52’s before I went to school for auto mechanics, frankly I taught myself far more than I learned in school. You can too !!!!
How do you align the throttle shaft?
I’m sorry I don’t have that answer, I checked the factory service manual, the only setting is an Adjustment Screw for WOT , wide open throttle. The throttle plates close and seal there’s no gap like engines of earlier time. The IAC controls the idle by metering the air through an orifice and it’s controlled by the computer
Hi Norman, how did you diagnose that the TPS and IAC were bad to begin with? Seems like those same symptoms you listed could also be caused by bad ignition parts, so you probably ruled that stuff out somehow. Could you let me know. I have a rough idle on my 96 and trying to come up with a plan for repair.
Thanks.
Rule out the ignition first, by testing or replacing, that engine was a brand new rebuild. I tested the TPS with with a volt meter, the tps is variable resistor, as the throttle is opened and voltage moves linearly. If it drops, flat spots etc it’s bad. The IAC is a choke , If the truck runs rich or stalls after warm up etc it good indication your IAC is sticky. IAC is a motor
@@normanpaulife Awesome. Makes sense. Thanks.
Be sure to test your fuel pressure, for leaking injectors or faulty fuel pressure regulator
@@normanpaulife Is there a schroeder valve where I can plug in a fuel pressure gauge? I just bought this Bronco yesterday so i am still pretty ignorant.
did you clean the throttle body?
That’s in a new video
Unplug this unplug that. If I knew what each part looked like, I would NOT need to watch video. Show parts you’re describing
That was my first video , there’s a thorough and complete remake , ready for editing . Thanks for the input, you gave me an idea for my next video , I’ll ( try to) make an slide with illustrations to show the names of parts with a narrative description to enhance the video
Clean throttle body and check plates for fitment with flashlight while closed. No light should shine through when closed.
Beware : The factory service manual states no cleaning agents can be used on the Throttle Body , because it will remove the chemical finish.
@@normanpaulife
Yes back then there was only carb and brake cleaners which would etch the coatings that prevented build up of carbons/oils on throttle bodies. Today there are cleaners for throttle bodies.
Seafoam and a soft used toothbrush works great.
Things change as the science/technologies knowledge changes.
@@mongomay1 I have considered that too.
I have read conflicting statements on whether there should be light around the throttle plates when closed. I have a code 411 but aic has been replaced as well as tps and tb gasket besides vacuum lines.
@@rockinhorsefeathers8100
Test your replaced sensors, nowadays there are too many "new" parts that do not work out of the box.
Make which generation of codes you have eecv, OBDI or OBDII. They all can mean different things.
Also check your wiring and connectors for wear or broken insulation.
Lame
That was my first video ( 2 years ago), originally shot for a friend and posted on you tube because my Vimeo account with maxed out. It has currently received 11k views and bringing in approximately 1K a month. I have improved much since then.
@@normanpaulife Always haters out there......solid video dude.
He's actually really cool guy