Surprised you didn't include cables with LED Indicator to your stash of cables. The major advantage of LED indicator cables is showing you if they really charge or just plugged in w/out charging.
@@AllThingsOnePlaceyou should definitely try USB-C with led displays. They show voltage, amps, wattage. But I am sure you already knew that. I have like 20 of them...
Stumbled upon this channel when I was looking for reviews on an obscure charger from aliexpress (rocoren? Still can't remember the name), ended up binging 10 or 15 videos, good channel!
Suggestion, add a column for advertised data transfer speed. Most seem to be USB2 but some are USB 3 Gen 1 or 2. Or just say 480Mbps, 5Gbps, 10Gbps. I feel like this is something else most people look for in a cable other than length and current carrying capacity
Watch out with magnetic cables. They usually make normally protected pins exposed to the outside and as a result to ESD. Touching one of those data pins could potetially damage your device.
I’d like to see an actual test demonstrating this problem. I’ve spent my life working with electronics and this sounds like just another hypothetical unsubstantiated claim that doing things one way is “ESD Safe” while another way is “ESD dangerous”. Show me the data and I’ll happily get behind whatever it proves.
@@alx9r Agreed! @AllThingsOnePlace I would love to see you do a video on the topic! I could be convinced either way, I just would like to see some research and evidence for it.
Would you consider doing some sort of map or some other thorough tutorial of USB cables? I’m finding USB cables to be very resistant to simplicity. I’m still finding surprises about USB cables despite studying this for months. Some examples of surprises: - A USB-C PD device apparently can negotiate PD over a USB A to C cable if that A port supports PD. This comes up (at least hypothetically) with PD pass-through USB 3.2 hubs that have type-A downstream ports. - A to C cables can support up to 5Gbps (I think), and 15W (I think), but the way the devices ferret out that ability remains a mystery to me. Certainly a lot of my A to C cables result in assemblies that operate at lower speeds and power than that. - C to C cables might only have enough signaling conductors for 480Mbps so may well be slower than some Type-A connections. Most of these cases I can only infer based on tests of the samples I have on hand, and the USB spec. I don’t have the diversity of test jigs, cables, and devices that you have though, so I wonder if would makes sense for you to cover that territory. FWIW it seems like about half of what’s written on r/UsbCHardware contains uncorrected misconceptions about USB cables. OP’s problem is often explained by wrong cables. Clearly there are resources missing that tie the principles of the USB spec to products that actually exist. Your testing certainly does that for PD power adapters, but there remains a lot of unploughed ground for cables. In particular, there are two questions that remain difficult to answer because of the dearth of resources: 1. What will devices negotiate when connected by this cable? 2. Why did the devices connected by this cable negotiate what they did?
That could be an interesting take on USB cables, as opposed to just the raw power performance aspect and thank you for the suggestion. -For a USB A cable to negotiate PD it has to pass the CC line over at least one of the pins. -You are correct USB A cables do exist with the extra pins for higher data rates, I have and use them all the time. Most are USB 2 data rates though with 4 wires in the cable, P+, D+,D-,P-. You need four extra wires to do high speed data, and again, the CC pin to do PD. -Correct on C-C cables, from what I have found also, a lot of charging cables only have USB 2 speeds. I do note this in the chart whether the cable claims support for high speed data. Yeah, that is a great point, when there are questions to be answered that is when a video is needed. The why is very important.
Thanks for the video and the good work, I've been waiting for this one for a long time. I'm surprised the 240W cables do not trust the top places for the resistance per foot metric nor make a big step forward in terms of performance compared to the 100W rated cables. In your opinion, should we expect a jump in performance (ie lower resistance) for the 240W cables in the future?
No. The wires are exactly the same as before, the only difference is the chip in the connector end. There are a lot of very good performers though. I am really curious what wire Satechi uses, because they have a good formula worked out to get a lot of power down that wire and I want them to release a series of 240W cables.
I'd like to see you do some data testing if possible. There's 100s of c-c cables online, many marked as 20 or 40gbps while they're probably not. Would love to know which one is actually good!
Yeah, that part is more difficult. I don't have any high speed test systems, the cheap versions are into the $10k's. I want to do that eventually. I certainly have enough cables to test if I ever add that ability.
@@AllThingsOnePlace how about if you get 2 40gbps ssd's (don't know if they exist) and run simple data copies via a fast laptop or something? I know it's not very scientific that way, but it can still help viewers and it's more content for your channel.
Best case resistance for USB-C cables at 20C USB-C connector resistance is typically @0.025ohms on each end 28AWG 3ft USB-C cable 0.195ohms+0.050ohms= 0.245ohms 26AWG 3ft USB-C cable 0.122ohms+0.050ohms= 0.172ohms 24AWG 3ft USB-C cable 0.078ohms+0.050ohms= 0.128ohms 20AWG 3ft USB-C cable 0.030ohms+0.050ohms= 0.080ohms
I got a cable with 2 different lengths from AliExpress which claims 18AWG for the power lines. And measuring with TC66C (using external power, both Power and PD switch are off to make it as accurate as possible) and 5V 2A. The results i got were about 0.0925 ohm for the 1M variant (should be with the connectors then) and 0.1425 ohm for the 2M one. Idk if it's really 18AWG but it does seem to be one of the best so far.
Love your videos. Can't remember if you take requests are not. I'm looking for the best 20W flat charger since the plug is behind my bedside table. Is there a clear winner in your book? I have a couple of the Ugreen's for other areas of the house but they won't fit in the bedroom. I was thinking of the Baseus 20W but thought I'd check with you first since you've said in the past each brand seems to excel in a very specific wattage. Side note: Your videos stopped showing up in my "subscribed" section.
Thanks, yeah, I do have a video on slim chargers coming at some point. I have quite a few of them around. The best one I have looked at so far is the Anker 45W Powerport III slim. They do sacrifice some performance for the slim design. In terms of a video not showing up in subscribed, I have seen it before, I don't have any control over it, you would have to put in a ticket with TH-cam to see what's wrong. As all the other people say, click the bell icon and select all or something, no idea if any of that works or means anything.
Would you consider branching out to USB-C hubs and docks? Thunderbolt and USB4 docks seems to be disastrous for their ambiguous Power Delivery functionality. (Many don’t pass through power, they have odd specs for power limits on different ports, their possibly-required power bricks are comical, etc.) Unfortunately such hubs are becoming a necessity so I’d still like to know which options is the least awful.
Yeah, I use the Dell brick one, with a 180W beast of an adapter, on an AMD HP laptop of course... Works great actually. Oddly, the HP laptop will not charge with anything over USB C unless it is Dell or HP. All other USB C chargers do not work. Immediately fail negotiation and don't even get a notification that anything is plugged in. Woo, USB C, compatibility. I don't know if I can force that through another dock or hub though. It is a good question and should be some good video content. Anyway, I have a few of the cheap hubs to check out already. I agree that the marketing and material on what works with what is almost non-existent. I can't even find where this laptop works with any docks or hubs.
My Dell brick dock negotiates to 6.5A at 20V with my Dell laptop. Of the power supplies I have, only the Dell’s support that current. The laptop accepts lower currents as well, but the OS shows the power adapter warning indicator. Maybe your HP needs that oddball current and refuses anything else.
@AllThingsOnePlace I suggest the StarTech HB31CM4CPD3 as an example of a PD hub that seems useful but whose behavior is inscrutable from the documentation.
The magnetic cable really stands out, seems a valid option. But usually smartphones are more often charged and their USB C port is more than good enough when they're no good to use anymore. Really sad to see that most good charging cables can't send data or send it at decent speeds. I'm not fond of having double the cables. I have one question regarding cables I couldn't answer myself: why do USB A to USB C adapters trick phones into thinking there's a fast charger on the other side? Android phones are so convinced that it's a fast charger to show double the amps in on the Ampere app. Thanks!
Good question. My guess is they add a resistor to the USB cable to fool the power negotiation on the phone into thinking its got access to more power. Since USB A, generally doesn't send any data, it uses the voltage on the data pins to determine charge speed.
I got the USB data enabled one because I smelled possible issues with a just power ones. No shot. If you're interested they're some with meral housings, low profile, go by lots of brands. The ones I got where from Base Sailor.
I wouldn't worry about the rapid charging protocol unless you have a top of the line smartphone from Samsung or the Google Pixel and even then it will only do rapid charging when the the battery falls under 50%. 99% of smartphone still only charge at 5V x 2.0A-2.4A which is 10w to 12w respectively.
The price of copper is skyrocketing and in order to keep the cable as small in diameter as possible they don't include the data wires in charging cables.
No charger does 240W on one cable yet, anyway, current determines resistance, ie, losses are the same versus the 100W level. Anyway, yes need to test some of the newer cables on the market soon.
From your pdf, what I see is that some cables are not usb if certified and performs better than the certified ones. Is it better to go with non certified ones or certified ones. Will the non certified one will cause any damages to the device in the long run
A certified cable will have gone through more testing and verification for consistency and reliability of product. If you are buying for data usage then I'd certainly look for a certified cable.
Instead of buying a bunch of different usb cables types can I just get a usb c to c and put a adapter on it? Like c to a, c to micro, c to lightning? Are adapters safe? And could you recommend a brand of adapters if so?
I use some of the adapters myself. I just pick random ones. There are too many brands now. Make sure it doesn’t get hot in use basically. You lose some functionality and sometimes charging will not work since the cc pin ends up incorrectly connected with adapters.
where did you bought your power z screen to test cables ? edit: seems to be the POWER-Z KM002C // you should also test toocki and essager cables, especially the new 240w ones that dosen't seem bad for the price on Ali (Thanks again!)
The spreadsheet is not really interactive and/or not possible to copy. So no way to filter, sort etc so essentially I can't use it to look up cables I would want to buy. Did I misunderstand something or it just doesn't work on my end? tried in a private window without ad blocker as well, same result.
Hmmm. I suck at code, if that isn't obvious, ha. Jack of no trades master of all or something like that. Anyway, I just went on the page highlighted the text, hit control-C, made a new excel document and hit control-V and it worked almost perfectly to make a copy. The top row was shifted over one cell in excel, easy fix. Then data parade go.
I was surprised to learn that the SlimQ 1M cable included with the F150-3C1A 150W PD3.1 charger supports 240W and USB4 40Gb/s speeds. Tested using PowerZ KM003C
Yeah, even the Anker which said it came with a 140W cable is actually a 240W cable, they just mislabeled it. The official spec basically requires them to be 240W capable if they support EPR at all. There are a few fakes out there but I think they've mostly disappeared now.
Im actually interested in buying the tbs4 cable by cable matters. they got short ard long options. and the value per performance is one of a kind . since I have been having xiaomi 11 Ultra, S8 Ultra.. and before I am buying That. I actually wanna ask If it would work.. and I also appreciate your recommendation for anyth cables much more better eventhough not cheaper cable for longterm , ..
That does look like an interesting device. I tested a bunch of the cable matters cables and they were good performers on my resistance test. I am still figuring out how to do some data testing (better than just transferring data or yes, the screen is attached).
@@AllThingsOnePlace plus for multi device usage both ios and android...i really appreciate since tbs4 cables working with Windows Os,Mac Os and mobiles devices ..any recommendations on tbs4 hereor in your next video will really appreciates, thank you
Hey it would be interesting to see how the cables of native union do as they proved to be super durable in my use and they have liftime warranty. only a single native union cable developed a problem after years of use and they just replaced it with no question asked.
I just tested the Satechi 6.6ft 100w c-c cable and am getting 15% voltage/power drop at 5a. This must be out of spec surely, asking for 100w and receiving just 85. Looking at your results it says your power loss is 3.13 @ 5A. Is that 3.13w per foot or do we have vastly different results?
Yeah, 15W dissipated in that cable it should feel like a heater wire. You sure the device is pulling the full 100W? That power loss is for the whole cable and the ends so we do have vastly different results.
@@AllThingsOnePlace I fiddled around with connections, cleaned plugs and managed to get it down to 10w loss @ 100w. Still awful. If I hadn’t bought it directly from Satechi I’d be thinking ‘fake!’
It is a valid question. Some of them are like trying to bend a steel bar. Generally, the longer cables that don't have video are all very flexible, when they add the thunderbolt or video to the cable then they get a lot thicker, actually worse for charging, then also much more stiff with all the extra wires and shielding required.
A bunch of the ones on the list are thunderbolt compatible cables also. Testing the signal integrity will be a ways out though, the gear for that is well into the 10's of thousands. That's the cheap version, easily can spend a million on a scope for high speed data integrity. Sounds like a job for the signal path.
@@AllThingsOnePlace yeah would be cool to have USB / thunderbolt bandwidth tests especially since it's really important for electronics nowadays Who knows maybe one day tvs would replace hdmi for c cables
haha, yeah, that is a mess. I think it's a google sheet for the data but I'm not sure if that lets you add sorting columns. In terms of sorting you can select all the data on the website and copy it into the application of your choice. If you publish somewhere state information source please.
I doubt the device you are charging will ever use up to 5Ax20V(100w) since your charger is only 66w. The main criteria is to know if your 5A USB cable is actually low in resistance. I have tested many USB-A to USB-C 6A and 7A cables and the amperage rating doesn't mean anything as most of the time the 6A cable performs much better than the one with the 7A rating.
@@AllThingsOnePlace Yes, many of the non big brand smartphones still provide a 2A USB-A charger with a USB-A to USB-C cable. In most cases they are using the Dedicated Charging Port (DCP) BC1.1 1.5A charging protocol even though it can still be charging at 2.0A (10w) depending on a good low resistance cable.
man I had my 'fancy' overpriced Samsung 10k mah super fast battery stolen, so i decided id do research on its replacement, and what new mah, form factor, all in 1?, usb splitter cable? etc etc, and every few hours of research and thousands of amazon pages, i keep ending up at your channel. you literally covered soooo many of my top contenders for "potential best setup". you absolutely rock, i learned so many things i would have always wondered watching you so far!!
Beware of USAMS 2 in cable. I had their 3 in 1 cable (C to C, Micro, & lightning) for a while. It had lots of negotiations. One output doesn't charge when all used. Went down quickly. Contacted seller and they blocked me. I call them USCAMS.
hahaha, yeah, that cable was weird and acts really weird. I see the one I bought has disappeared but now Baseus is selling it, ha. Baseus releases a couple good products and then a lot of garbage...
@@AllThingsOnePlace "it" or "them"? Pine64 has two passive red silicone cables in 1 m and 1.5 m The one from Miniware (about $4-$8 on Aliexpress) is orange, has an e-marker chip and is rated for 240 W.
I would go with UGreen/Anker/Amazon Basics Dr.Juice tested them before & they are among the best. The Shorter the cable the better efficiency 1.5 & 3 ft ugreen are my choice.
Yeah, I need to make the chart searchable/sortable on the webpage so you can select per your needs. In general, UGREEN, Anker, and Amazon basics make very good USB cables.
I don't really have any good data testing abilities and that's probably most important for USB 4 cables. I want to do this in the future. In terms of power loss, I can do that of course. I did put it on the list.
@@guocity The resistance is part of the impedance characteristics, the real part, for data transfer. These wires are usually much different than the power carrying wires I am looking at here. I haven't done any testing on data transfer rates of cables and data integrity. I want to add that eventually but the cost is very high to get into that.
Do you think in a few years everything new will be using USB-C as power, like appliances and fridges too? I'm guessing the next generation will up the max wattage delivered again. And do you think that's a good idea, given it opens up the possibility of using improper cables like some of these to power too-high-powered things?
It's a good question, and I don't think it would be good to cover larger things with USB. Motor powered appliances generally need surge currents and have AC motors that generally aren't going to be very efficient on 48 volts DC even. If they did they'd need 20 or 30 amps which becomes problematic current wise (really big wires). So, AC mains powered devices will continue for a very long time. I could see a refrigerator powered by USB C with a VRF (Variable Refrigerant) system but it'd be more efficient to directly connect it. In terms of devices though, there are many low powered appliances that could benefit from standardization and take advantage of the myriad of more efficient power supply options.
Surprised you didn't include cables with LED Indicator to your stash of cables. The major advantage of LED indicator cables is showing you if they really charge or just plugged in w/out charging.
Oh, thank you, that is a good addition I can make! I can easily enough add that column. Not too many I tested have LED's but there are at least a few.
@@AllThingsOnePlaceyou should definitely try USB-C with led displays. They show voltage, amps, wattage. But I am sure you already knew that. I have like 20 of them...
@@MonkY2k2 any particular recommendation for a 100w / 140w usb c with displays?
@@MonkY2k2can you recommend any USB-C cables with LED? thanks
@@MonkY2k2 maybe you aren't seeing the notifications, but you definitely should recommend some for us
Stumbled upon this channel when I was looking for reviews on an obscure charger from aliexpress (rocoren? Still can't remember the name), ended up binging 10 or 15 videos, good channel!
Thanks for watching!
Suggestion, add a column for advertised data transfer speed. Most seem to be USB2 but some are USB 3 Gen 1 or 2. Or just say 480Mbps, 5Gbps, 10Gbps. I feel like this is something else most people look for in a cable other than length and current carrying capacity
Thanks! Yeah. I have some info on that but it’s certainly worth an update.
Thanks for keeping up with all these reviews. Looking for a baseus usb-c power supply with a removable power cable.
Thanks! Every bit helps. Yeah, I don't know when they will get a new line of power adapters out but I'm sure I'll get them on the channel.
Watch out with magnetic cables. They usually make normally protected pins exposed to the outside and as a result to ESD. Touching one of those data pins could potetially damage your device.
Mmhmm thanks. That is a good point.
I’d like to see an actual test demonstrating this problem. I’ve spent my life working with electronics and this sounds like just another hypothetical unsubstantiated claim that doing things one way is “ESD Safe” while another way is “ESD dangerous”.
Show me the data and I’ll happily get behind whatever it proves.
@@alx9r Agreed! @AllThingsOnePlace I would love to see you do a video on the topic! I could be convinced either way, I just would like to see some research and evidence for it.
Would you consider doing some sort of map or some other thorough tutorial of USB cables?
I’m finding USB cables to be very resistant to simplicity. I’m still finding surprises about USB cables despite studying this for months. Some examples of surprises:
- A USB-C PD device apparently can negotiate PD over a USB A to C cable if that A port supports PD. This comes up (at least hypothetically) with PD pass-through USB 3.2 hubs that have type-A downstream ports.
- A to C cables can support up to 5Gbps (I think), and 15W (I think), but the way the devices ferret out that ability remains a mystery to me. Certainly a lot of my A to C cables result in assemblies that operate at lower speeds and power than that.
- C to C cables might only have enough signaling conductors for 480Mbps so may well be slower than some Type-A connections.
Most of these cases I can only infer based on tests of the samples I have on hand, and the USB spec. I don’t have the diversity of test jigs, cables, and devices that you have though, so I wonder if would makes sense for you to cover that territory.
FWIW it seems like about half of what’s written on r/UsbCHardware contains uncorrected misconceptions about USB cables. OP’s problem is often explained by wrong cables. Clearly there are resources missing that tie the principles of the USB spec to products that actually exist. Your testing certainly does that for PD power adapters, but there remains a lot of unploughed ground for cables. In particular, there are two questions that remain difficult to answer because of the dearth of resources:
1. What will devices negotiate when connected by this cable?
2. Why did the devices connected by this cable negotiate what they did?
That could be an interesting take on USB cables, as opposed to just the raw power performance aspect and thank you for the suggestion.
-For a USB A cable to negotiate PD it has to pass the CC line over at least one of the pins.
-You are correct USB A cables do exist with the extra pins for higher data rates, I have and use them all the time. Most are USB 2 data rates though with 4 wires in the cable, P+, D+,D-,P-. You need four extra wires to do high speed data, and again, the CC pin to do PD.
-Correct on C-C cables, from what I have found also, a lot of charging cables only have USB 2 speeds. I do note this in the chart whether the cable claims support for high speed data.
Yeah, that is a great point, when there are questions to be answered that is when a video is needed. The why is very important.
Thanks for the video and the good work, I've been waiting for this one for a long time. I'm surprised the 240W cables do not trust the top places for the resistance per foot metric nor make a big step forward in terms of performance compared to the 100W rated cables.
In your opinion, should we expect a jump in performance (ie lower resistance) for the 240W cables in the future?
No. The wires are exactly the same as before, the only difference is the chip in the connector end. There are a lot of very good performers though. I am really curious what wire Satechi uses, because they have a good formula worked out to get a lot of power down that wire and I want them to release a series of 240W cables.
Bought a bunch of black Baseus 240W cables in the last few days, they went as low as ~1.5$ per 1m cable at one point. Hopefully they are solid
Yeah, I tested the 1 meter one, it's in the 150's on the list. It was very good for a charging cable.
Me too
I'd like to see you do some data testing if possible. There's 100s of c-c cables online, many marked as 20 or 40gbps while they're probably not. Would love to know which one is actually good!
Yeah, that part is more difficult. I don't have any high speed test systems, the cheap versions are into the $10k's. I want to do that eventually. I certainly have enough cables to test if I ever add that ability.
@@AllThingsOnePlace how about if you get 2 40gbps ssd's (don't know if they exist) and run simple data copies via a fast laptop or something? I know it's not very scientific that way, but it can still help viewers and it's more content for your channel.
Yess
1:27 "This thing is going to give me trouble, I can just smell it" 😂 I felt that
haha
Best case resistance for USB-C cables at 20C
USB-C connector resistance is typically @0.025ohms on each end
28AWG 3ft USB-C cable 0.195ohms+0.050ohms= 0.245ohms
26AWG 3ft USB-C cable 0.122ohms+0.050ohms= 0.172ohms
24AWG 3ft USB-C cable 0.078ohms+0.050ohms= 0.128ohms
20AWG 3ft USB-C cable 0.030ohms+0.050ohms= 0.080ohms
Yeah, I need to spend a bit of time doing some data analysis and present it better. Should be able to put the cables in bins as you have presented.
I got a cable with 2 different lengths from AliExpress which claims 18AWG for the power lines. And measuring with TC66C (using external power, both Power and PD switch are off to make it as accurate as possible) and 5V 2A. The results i got were about 0.0925 ohm for the 1M variant (should be with the connectors then) and 0.1425 ohm for the 2M one. Idk if it's really 18AWG but it does seem to be one of the best so far.
Love your videos. Can't remember if you take requests are not. I'm looking for the best 20W flat charger since the plug is behind my bedside table. Is there a clear winner in your book? I have a couple of the Ugreen's for other areas of the house but they won't fit in the bedroom. I was thinking of the Baseus 20W but thought I'd check with you first since you've said in the past each brand seems to excel in a very specific wattage.
Side note: Your videos stopped showing up in my "subscribed" section.
Thanks, yeah, I do have a video on slim chargers coming at some point. I have quite a few of them around. The best one I have looked at so far is the Anker 45W Powerport III slim. They do sacrifice some performance for the slim design.
In terms of a video not showing up in subscribed, I have seen it before, I don't have any control over it, you would have to put in a ticket with TH-cam to see what's wrong. As all the other people say, click the bell icon and select all or something, no idea if any of that works or means anything.
@@AllThingsOnePlace Gotcha, good to know. I decided to get a surge protector and just use the 20W Ugreen you rave about 👍
Would you consider branching out to USB-C hubs and docks?
Thunderbolt and USB4 docks seems to be disastrous for their ambiguous Power Delivery functionality. (Many don’t pass through power, they have odd specs for power limits on different ports, their possibly-required power bricks are comical, etc.) Unfortunately such hubs are becoming a necessity so I’d still like to know which options is the least awful.
Yeah, I use the Dell brick one, with a 180W beast of an adapter, on an AMD HP laptop of course... Works great actually. Oddly, the HP laptop will not charge with anything over USB C unless it is Dell or HP. All other USB C chargers do not work. Immediately fail negotiation and don't even get a notification that anything is plugged in. Woo, USB C, compatibility. I don't know if I can force that through another dock or hub though. It is a good question and should be some good video content.
Anyway, I have a few of the cheap hubs to check out already. I agree that the marketing and material on what works with what is almost non-existent. I can't even find where this laptop works with any docks or hubs.
My Dell brick dock negotiates to 6.5A at 20V with my Dell laptop. Of the power supplies I have, only the Dell’s support that current. The laptop accepts lower currents as well, but the OS shows the power adapter warning indicator.
Maybe your HP needs that oddball current and refuses anything else.
@AllThingsOnePlace I suggest the StarTech HB31CM4CPD3 as an example of a PD hub that seems useful but whose behavior is inscrutable from the documentation.
PLEASE..its 2024 now..we need a FIFTH TIME!
haha
The magnetic cable really stands out, seems a valid option. But usually smartphones are more often charged and their USB C port is more than good enough when they're no good to use anymore. Really sad to see that most good charging cables can't send data or send it at decent speeds. I'm not fond of having double the cables.
I have one question regarding cables I couldn't answer myself: why do USB A to USB C adapters trick phones into thinking there's a fast charger on the other side? Android phones are so convinced that it's a fast charger to show double the amps in on the Ampere app. Thanks!
Good question. My guess is they add a resistor to the USB cable to fool the power negotiation on the phone into thinking its got access to more power. Since USB A, generally doesn't send any data, it uses the voltage on the data pins to determine charge speed.
Not a good cable to a purist who wants the absolute best performance in charging, but for data transmission it would be okay for use !
I got the USB data enabled one because I smelled possible issues with a just power ones. No shot. If you're interested they're some with meral housings, low profile, go by lots of brands. The ones I got where from Base Sailor.
I wouldn't worry about the rapid charging protocol unless you have a top of the line smartphone from Samsung or the Google Pixel and even then it will only do rapid charging when the the battery falls under 50%. 99% of smartphone still only charge at 5V x 2.0A-2.4A which is 10w to 12w respectively.
The price of copper is skyrocketing and in order to keep the cable as small in diameter as possible they don't include the data wires in charging cables.
hi i just bouht a anker 240w like cheaper bout myr30 . i suggest u do test on 240 w , and especially the thunderbolt 5 by cable matters.
No charger does 240W on one cable yet, anyway, current determines resistance, ie, losses are the same versus the 100W level. Anyway, yes need to test some of the newer cables on the market soon.
@@AllThingsOnePlace thanks . yeah sure. my suggestion is at the end of the year u coukd do a ranking videos or personal preferences and such.
From your pdf, what I see is that some cables are not usb if certified and performs better than the certified ones. Is it better to go with non certified ones or certified ones. Will the non certified one will cause any damages to the device in the long run
A certified cable will have gone through more testing and verification for consistency and reliability of product. If you are buying for data usage then I'd certainly look for a certified cable.
Instead of buying a bunch of different usb cables types can I just get a usb c to c and put a adapter on it? Like c to a, c to micro, c to lightning? Are adapters safe? And could you recommend a brand of adapters if so?
I use some of the adapters myself. I just pick random ones. There are too many brands now. Make sure it doesn’t get hot in use basically. You lose some functionality and sometimes charging will not work since the cc pin ends up incorrectly connected with adapters.
Gotcha, love the channel. What brand do you know doesn’t get hot? Rather not have to hassle with it.
where did you bought your power z screen to test cables ? edit: seems to be the POWER-Z KM002C // you should also test toocki and essager cables, especially the new 240w ones that dosen't seem bad for the price on Ali (Thanks again!)
Yes, it is the Power-Z KM002C. Thanks for the tip on more cables.
You didn't include any belkin 100w 2/3 meter cable. Are they not good?
I just didn't get any. There's so many USB cables out there. It's probably getting on time to add some to the list.
The spreadsheet is not really interactive and/or not possible to copy. So no way to filter, sort etc so essentially I can't use it to look up cables I would want to buy. Did I misunderstand something or it just doesn't work on my end? tried in a private window without ad blocker as well, same result.
Hmmm. I suck at code, if that isn't obvious, ha. Jack of no trades master of all or something like that. Anyway, I just went on the page highlighted the text, hit control-C, made a new excel document and hit control-V and it worked almost perfectly to make a copy. The top row was shifted over one cell in excel, easy fix. Then data parade go.
I was surprised to learn that the SlimQ 1M cable included with the F150-3C1A 150W PD3.1 charger supports 240W and USB4 40Gb/s speeds. Tested using PowerZ KM003C
Yeah, even the Anker which said it came with a 140W cable is actually a 240W cable, they just mislabeled it. The official spec basically requires them to be 240W capable if they support EPR at all. There are a few fakes out there but I think they've mostly disappeared now.
Im actually interested in buying the tbs4 cable by cable matters. they got short ard long options. and the value per performance is one of a kind . since I have been having xiaomi 11 Ultra, S8 Ultra.. and before I am buying That. I actually wanna ask If it would work.. and I also appreciate your recommendation for anyth cables much more better eventhough not cheaper cable for longterm , ..
That does look like an interesting device. I tested a bunch of the cable matters cables and they were good performers on my resistance test. I am still figuring out how to do some data testing (better than just transferring data or yes, the screen is attached).
@@AllThingsOnePlace plus for multi device usage both ios and android...i really appreciate since tbs4 cables working with Windows Os,Mac Os and mobiles devices ..any recommendations on tbs4 hereor in your next video will really appreciates, thank you
Hey it would be interesting to see how the cables of native union do as they proved to be super durable in my use and they have liftime warranty. only a single native union cable developed a problem after years of use and they just replaced it with no question asked.
Thanks! Yeah, I didn't pick any up yet but I added them to the list.
I just tested the Satechi 6.6ft 100w c-c cable and am getting 15% voltage/power drop at 5a. This must be out of spec surely, asking for 100w and receiving just 85.
Looking at your results it says your power loss is 3.13 @ 5A. Is that 3.13w per foot or do we have vastly different results?
Yeah, 15W dissipated in that cable it should feel like a heater wire. You sure the device is pulling the full 100W?
That power loss is for the whole cable and the ends so we do have vastly different results.
@@AllThingsOnePlace I fiddled around with connections, cleaned plugs and managed to get it down to 10w loss @ 100w. Still awful. If I hadn’t bought it directly from Satechi I’d be thinking ‘fake!’
Great info but how flexible are some of these cables.
It is a valid question. Some of them are like trying to bend a steel bar. Generally, the longer cables that don't have video are all very flexible, when they add the thunderbolt or video to the cable then they get a lot thicker, actually worse for charging, then also much more stiff with all the extra wires and shielding required.
spigen orico and some cable creation cables are availble in india. dont know which product buy ?
The orico ones seem quite good. Cable creations are expensive, at least here. Spigen is on my bad list, ha.
I see that you rate connectors at about 68 ohms. How did you calculate this number?
68 milliohms, it's an estimate. There is variance of course.
Can you please let me know how good is Ugreen Thunderbolt 4 cable thank you. If you can test this cable. Thank you.
Not sure. I can’t test data rates as of now. I could test it for power, state features, continuity test, as I’ve done in this video.
Is testing Thunderbolt cables on your roadmap?
A bunch of the ones on the list are thunderbolt compatible cables also. Testing the signal integrity will be a ways out though, the gear for that is well into the 10's of thousands. That's the cheap version, easily can spend a million on a scope for high speed data integrity. Sounds like a job for the signal path.
@@AllThingsOnePlace yeah would be cool to have USB / thunderbolt bandwidth tests especially since it's really important for electronics nowadays
Who knows maybe one day tvs would replace hdmi for c cables
I want to sort the pdf on your website by which one is most efficient what's the best way to do that?
haha, yeah, that is a mess. I think it's a google sheet for the data but I'm not sure if that lets you add sorting columns. In terms of sorting you can select all the data on the website and copy it into the application of your choice. If you publish somewhere state information source please.
where did you buy the current tester at 3:22?
That is the Power Z tester, you can get them on eBay, Amazon, it is the charger lab product.
I'm getting the uni 6.6ft cable but its has a B0C7BXH9KV ASIN. Is that a problem?
Yeah, that looks like it's the same thing I've looked at before.
My adapter supports 20 volt 3.3 amp max and it supports 66 watts, is 5amp usb A to type c cable is enough for my spare cable?
if your adapter has a USB A port, it will not support usb PD. that is more than likely for some proprietary charging standard
Yeah, the VOOC or QC chargers use a USB A connector still, although some started using USB C too but they don't use the CC pins like power delivery.
I doubt the device you are charging will ever use up to 5Ax20V(100w) since your charger is only 66w. The main criteria is to know if your 5A USB cable is actually low in resistance. I have tested many USB-A to USB-C 6A and 7A cables and the amperage rating doesn't mean anything as most of the time the 6A cable performs much better than the one with the 7A rating.
@@AllThingsOnePlace Yes, many of the non big brand smartphones still provide a 2A USB-A charger with a USB-A to USB-C cable. In most cases they are using the Dedicated Charging Port (DCP) BC1.1 1.5A charging protocol even though it can still be charging at 2.0A (10w) depending on a good low resistance cable.
Nice vid mate
man I had my 'fancy' overpriced Samsung 10k mah super fast battery stolen, so i decided id do research on its replacement, and what new mah, form factor, all in 1?, usb splitter cable? etc etc, and every few hours of research and thousands of amazon pages, i keep ending up at your channel.
you literally covered soooo many of my top contenders for "potential best setup". you absolutely rock, i learned so many things i would have always wondered watching you so far!!
Thanks for watching. Yeah, I have too many videos already, pretty much all search that gets people to the channel. There is a lot to do still.
which one did you buy?
I picked up the Iniu 65W 20k mAH Powerbank. If you're willing to sacrifice sleep; iniu has late night sales. It's lightweight.
Beware of USAMS 2 in cable. I had their 3 in 1 cable (C to C, Micro, & lightning) for a while. It had lots of negotiations. One output doesn't charge when all used. Went down quickly. Contacted seller and they blocked me.
I call them USCAMS.
hahaha, yeah, that cable was weird and acts really weird. I see the one I bought has disappeared but now Baseus is selling it, ha. Baseus releases a couple good products and then a lot of garbage...
What would be the best USB-A to USB-C cable ?
The Volutz cables don't look too bad for that type.
@@AllThingsOnePlace what about the one from cablemod
I want to know the best 240w 40gbs cable. Let me know.
I don't have the data testing capability so I'm not sure.
I had never done the math, I didn't think you could lose over 5W in a USB cable
Oh yeah, easily. That one video one catches on fire.
Miniware and Pine64 make *silicone* cable intended for their soldering irons, they might be interesting
I have it! I need to get a new video out... haha
@@AllThingsOnePlace "it" or "them"?
Pine64 has two passive red silicone cables in 1 m and 1.5 m
The one from Miniware (about $4-$8 on Aliexpress) is orange, has an e-marker chip and is rated for 240 W.
Was baited into the DeWalt cable didn't get DeWalt cable test
haha, I'm sure it's in the data listed on the website.
So what's the best one?
I would go with UGreen/Anker/Amazon Basics Dr.Juice tested them before & they are among the best. The Shorter the cable the better efficiency 1.5 & 3 ft ugreen are my choice.
Yeah, I need to make the chart searchable/sortable on the webpage so you can select per your needs. In general, UGREEN, Anker, and Amazon basics make very good USB cables.
@@siannes4599you got link to video tried findin it
Can you test a scoopi usb 4 cable?
I don't really have any good data testing abilities and that's probably most important for USB 4 cables. I want to do this in the future. In terms of power loss, I can do that of course. I did put it on the list.
@@AllThingsOnePlace do you know if the cable resistance will affect data throughput?, how do i know if a cable is capable of peak data performance?
@@guocity The resistance is part of the impedance characteristics, the real part, for data transfer. These wires are usually much different than the power carrying wires I am looking at here. I haven't done any testing on data transfer rates of cables and data integrity. I want to add that eventually but the cost is very high to get into that.
@@AllThingsOnePlace yea, those cable are very expensive, thanks for the good work
Do you think in a few years everything new will be using USB-C as power, like appliances and fridges too? I'm guessing the next generation will up the max wattage delivered again. And do you think that's a good idea, given it opens up the possibility of using improper cables like some of these to power too-high-powered things?
It's a good question, and I don't think it would be good to cover larger things with USB. Motor powered appliances generally need surge currents and have AC motors that generally aren't going to be very efficient on 48 volts DC even. If they did they'd need 20 or 30 amps which becomes problematic current wise (really big wires). So, AC mains powered devices will continue for a very long time. I could see a refrigerator powered by USB C with a VRF (Variable Refrigerant) system but it'd be more efficient to directly connect it. In terms of devices though, there are many low powered appliances that could benefit from standardization and take advantage of the myriad of more efficient power supply options.
No, read up on history Tesla vs Edison or AC vs DC ! ...LoL
No.
all wire should have app
That would be so annoying to test.