One of the first mods I made to my DR650 was to replace the stock wheels with a SMPro Platinum Wheel set with the 18" rear. The standard wheels do not have a reputation for being the strongest wheels which was my motivation for replacing them. I opted for the 18" rear not because of the wider range tyres available in that size, but because I do a lot of riding in remote Australia well away from any convenient retail outlet and if I completely shred a rear It would be more likely that I could get a get me home tyre in that size from local station (That's Ranch for you Americans).
No allegedly about it, the 18 is easier to change compared to the 17 which has a road bike bead, I got the last 18 on almost without tools, just the last little bit needed the spoons. The extra diameter and a larger range of off road tyres is the main reason for changing (D606 in 17 will come close in diameter, but isn't great at the kind of single track I was doing). I find that the really deep rutted forest sections are much easier with the 18, and I fitted Tublis to one wheel (I have my single track wheel set, and an Adventure wheel set with wider rims) and run the Arena Hybrid Tyre at 0 ~ 6 psi and I'm just amazed at where I can take the old beast. It's not a single track bike, but it will do just about anything when set up right for it. Even little things can make a difference when you start to specialise, like an 18 inch rear wheel. But it's like going down the rabbit hole...18 inch wheels, then new gearing, different suspension, a new clutch because of all the slow work, by the time I got to where I am now, there wasn't much DR left. The only DR bits left unmodified or not replaced outright....the engine. Now I'm thinking big bore and big valve head...that'll need new gears...and on and on it goes. Probably should have bought a 300 EXC...might have been cheaper...definitely easier to pick up.
You've got to be quiet the ace mechanic to find an 18" rim and lace it up to your existing hub, I have done a number of wheels, respoked my DR650 wheels, so I know what is involved. It is what I am going to do eventually, so I've looked into it, the rim part is easy enough, but there are few direct answers as to what spokes to use with the original hub. I guess when I go to do it I'll just have to do what it takes to make it work.
The main reason I see to do it, and why I want to eventually do it, is good 18" tyres are significantly cheaper. Yes, if your happy spooning on D606 every 5000, then this point is invalid, a a 17" Heidenau rear costs $260, which you can get 10000 out of if your just cruising around on the street, which is still a good deal but the same tyre but 18" is $100 cheaper, and on top of that you get access to all the other modern good 18" tyres, not just a couple.
I did it on my DR650, in europe we dont have that much tyre choice in 17''. The bike is more stable, a bit more weight transfered on the front, the transmission has to be changed. Better traction. It goes well with a fork change.
Every point made is erroneous to the ability of an 18" tire verse 17" tire. You can get a sharper steering by lowering the front forks 1/2" and the tire choices are every bit as available as the 18" in choosing knobs verses combo tires. There is literally no reason to not find a suitable traction tire in either size. There are likely more variations for tubeless tires in 17" tires because of the Adventure Bike usually using 17" tires in the past. If you want 18" tires go ahead and change it, but forget the argument that is made for them!
@@roymerriman6188 Rubbish, there are BETTER options for the 18 from quite a few tyre manufacturers if you bother looking, that's why people do this mod, also the tubeless system. If you don't want to do it then don't, all the op's points were valid...
@@roymerriman6188 way more choice in tyre in 18'' compared to 17'', that is the biggest ++. The rest of the arguments are based on my feedback, I ran both on the same bike, same setup, did you ? It's basic physics, bigger diameter = bigger contact patch = better traction. Also more stable, especially at low speed (larger rotational mass).
Got an 18 inch rear wheel paired with a soupys raise link, and yz450f front forks (longer, lighter) and love it. Only mistake... I went with a width that matched the stock rim. Big mistake! Too wide for tubliss lol
Good video and a reasonable viewpoint. I can't tell any difference but it really is only 1/2" bigger and the tire can make more difference than that. Like running a worn out knobby they putting a new knobby on. But others say they can tell the difference between 17" and 18" so maybe I'm just poor at feeling differences compared with others.
nice topic ! BTW : about old DR350 rear wheel for the KLR650 18 inch rear wheel mod' : "Just make sure it's one of the cushdrive hub versions". You're VERY right ! its better for the engine to have this kind of final absorber ! Anyway, if you got a DR350 RR wheel from the dirt bike /USA version (hub w/o cushions), it wont fit as "plug & play" : because the "dirt" hub (& rim) is from late'80's era RM 125 or 250. Compared to DR350 "trail" version (metal fuel tank) it got a bigger RR wheel axle ; so, bigger ball bearings too, that's rather fine. And some rear fork grinding would be required (it needs 2 or 3 m/m more) to install the "dirt /RM" RR wheel.
About the FRT fork, the one from the DR350 "dirt" is also from the late '80's RM series : it got hydro'tuning for compression & detente. It's conventional fork, not UPSD type : it's better because less rigid that is OK to accommodate to the rather flexible DR650 frame.
a last point : dont go for wider tyres !! It will eat power, provide LESS traction (especially on soft /muddy terrains) & will increase trouble when U rapid change angle from corners to corners. At FRT & RR, it's often wiser to go with thinner tyres.
I have owned/worked on nearly every year DR350, almost all the information you provided is incorrect. All DR350's have the same rear axle diameter regardless of having cush drive or not, the spacers are different widths. In the USA all dirt models had plastic tanks, and all street models had steel tanks. Do an image search of the "late 80's rm forks" and they are not the ones found on 97-99 Dirt models or 98-99 street models. They may be similar or the same as some late 90's RM125 but not the 80's.
@@MickH60 Just because Warp 9 claim their wheels are made from 7050 or whatever grade aluminium, doesn't necessarily make it so. There are several foundries in China making aluminium alloys, some make legit aerospec grades, others make Chinese Mystery Metal. I somehow doubt that rims advertised as being "half the price" do not have corners cut somewhere. Also those bling CNC billet hubs are often heavier than OEM hubs.
not less punctures !! but a wider tyres choice that lead to allow to install "puncture free" combos : The tyre you prefer w/ "bib mousse" or TUbliss system
If it ain't broke don't fix it!! Put your money into suspension improvements. Fuck sake stop spending money on stuff that won't transform the bike that much.
Suspension preferances are a non-issue also! I could never get a bike that felt great in all scenarios, so I just bought 8 different bikes! Thanks for the tip
Hey m8, off topic but i'm subbed so maybe i'm just off track. Could I please ask/request/direct me if you have any thoughts on KTM (keeps taking money/ kick till midnight) moving their engine manufacturing to China? I'm not too clued up on the whole debacle and i'm curious to hear your take on it.
Discussed in a vid or two a few years back about Chinese made motorbikes. There were just two mid sized engines made in China a while ago but I suspect there's going to be a gradual transition... a year ago KTM announced 300 jobs axed in production and R and D. Me? I'd prefer to see them swing production to a more democratic country. E.g. Honda makes a lot of their cheaper models in Thailand now.
@@crosstrainingadventure Thanks m8. I agree. Pity because for that price I expect SS style perfection. Either way, it's pity Honda and the nip brands no longer produce their machines in their home country. Made in Japan = something that'll last forever.
@@cowboyanimal_1 As crosstrainingadventure said above, cheaper models are made in Thailand. Premium models such as the Africa Twin and CBR1000RR are still made in Japan. I think it's a good compromise as it makes the lower end bikes more affordable and by all reports the build quality is still good. I certainly have no complaints about my Thai made Gen 3 KLR650.
@@MotoWot Yeah nah, I don't mind Thailand, it's the Chinks I'm afraid of. Porsche's head of marketing recently said and I quote: "I can't understand why people are no longer buying our cars." after moving it all to the great communist paradise that is China.
I've done done it on my xt600e. Tubliss system fitted. Transformation was amazing. Lost 2kg just on the rim.
Could you DM me? I am just thinking about doing it to my XT600e so perfect timing
One of the first mods I made to my DR650 was to replace the stock wheels with a SMPro Platinum Wheel set with the 18" rear. The standard wheels do not have a reputation for being the strongest wheels which was my motivation for replacing them. I opted for the 18" rear not because of the wider range tyres available in that size, but because I do a lot of riding in remote Australia well away from any convenient retail outlet and if I completely shred a rear It would be more likely that I could get a get me home tyre in that size from local station (That's Ranch for you Americans).
No allegedly about it, the 18 is easier to change compared to the 17 which has a road bike bead, I got the last 18 on almost without tools, just the last little bit needed the spoons. The extra diameter and a larger range of off road tyres is the main reason for changing (D606 in 17 will come close in diameter, but isn't great at the kind of single track I was doing). I find that the really deep rutted forest sections are much easier with the 18, and I fitted Tublis to one wheel (I have my single track wheel set, and an Adventure wheel set with wider rims) and run the Arena Hybrid Tyre at 0 ~ 6 psi and I'm just amazed at where I can take the old beast. It's not a single track bike, but it will do just about anything when set up right for it. Even little things can make a difference when you start to specialise, like an 18 inch rear wheel. But it's like going down the rabbit hole...18 inch wheels, then new gearing, different suspension, a new clutch because of all the slow work, by the time I got to where I am now, there wasn't much DR left. The only DR bits left unmodified or not replaced outright....the engine. Now I'm thinking big bore and big valve head...that'll need new gears...and on and on it goes. Probably should have bought a 300 EXC...might have been cheaper...definitely easier to pick up.
You've got to be quiet the ace mechanic to find an 18" rim and lace it up to your existing hub, I have done a number of wheels, respoked my DR650 wheels, so I know what is involved. It is what I am going to do eventually, so I've looked into it, the rim part is easy enough, but there are few direct answers as to what spokes to use with the original hub. I guess when I go to do it I'll just have to do what it takes to make it work.
The main reason I see to do it, and why I want to eventually do it, is good 18" tyres are significantly cheaper. Yes, if your happy spooning on D606 every 5000, then this point is invalid, a a 17" Heidenau rear costs $260, which you can get 10000 out of if your just cruising around on the street, which is still a good deal but the same tyre but 18" is $100 cheaper, and on top of that you get access to all the other modern good 18" tyres, not just a couple.
That's a good point! I hadn't considered the cost of tires.
I did it on my DR650, in europe we dont have that much tyre choice in 17''.
The bike is more stable, a bit more weight transfered on the front, the transmission has to be changed.
Better traction.
It goes well with a fork change.
Every point made is erroneous to the ability of an 18" tire verse 17" tire. You can get a sharper steering by lowering the front forks 1/2" and the tire choices are every bit as available as the 18" in choosing knobs verses combo tires. There is literally no reason to not find a suitable traction tire in either size. There are likely more variations for tubeless tires in 17" tires because of the Adventure Bike usually using 17" tires in the past. If you want 18" tires go ahead and change it, but forget the argument that is made for them!
@@roymerriman6188 Rubbish, there are BETTER options for the 18 from quite a few tyre manufacturers if you bother looking, that's why people do this mod, also the tubeless system. If you don't want to do it then don't, all the op's points were valid...
@@roymerriman6188 way more choice in tyre in 18'' compared to 17'', that is the biggest ++. The rest of the arguments are based on my feedback, I ran both on the same bike, same setup, did you ?
It's basic physics, bigger diameter = bigger contact patch = better traction. Also more stable, especially at low speed (larger rotational mass).
I spot-sealed the spokes on my klr to run tubeless tires.. I can't air down much, but I don't miss the tubes!
I used a DR350 on my DR650SE 15 years ago (before it got stolen...) Looked much better than 17"
Got an 18 inch rear wheel paired with a soupys raise link, and yz450f front forks (longer, lighter) and love it.
Only mistake... I went with a width that matched the stock rim. Big mistake! Too wide for tubliss lol
Good video and a reasonable viewpoint. I can't tell any difference but it really is only 1/2" bigger and the tire can make more difference than that. Like running a worn out knobby they putting a new knobby on. But others say they can tell the difference between 17" and 18" so maybe I'm just poor at feeling differences compared with others.
The rims 1/2 inch bigger, the 140-80-18 tyre is bigger again, giving a bigger rolling radius...
nice topic !
BTW : about old DR350 rear wheel for the KLR650 18 inch rear wheel mod' :
"Just make sure it's one of the cushdrive hub versions".
You're VERY right ! its better for the engine to have this kind of final absorber !
Anyway, if you got a DR350 RR wheel from the dirt bike /USA version (hub w/o cushions), it wont fit as "plug & play" :
because the "dirt" hub (& rim) is from late'80's era RM 125 or 250.
Compared to DR350 "trail" version (metal fuel tank) it got a bigger RR wheel axle ; so, bigger ball bearings too, that's rather fine.
And some rear fork grinding would be required (it needs 2 or 3 m/m more) to install the "dirt /RM" RR wheel.
About the FRT fork, the one from the DR350 "dirt" is also from the late '80's RM series :
it got hydro'tuning for compression & detente. It's conventional fork, not UPSD type :
it's better because less rigid that is OK to accommodate to the rather flexible DR650 frame.
a last point : dont go for wider tyres !! It will eat power, provide LESS traction (especially on soft /muddy terrains)
& will increase trouble when U rapid change angle from corners to corners.
At FRT & RR, it's often wiser to go with thinner tyres.
I have owned/worked on nearly every year DR350, almost all the information you provided is incorrect. All DR350's have the same rear axle diameter regardless of having cush drive or not, the spacers are different widths. In the USA all dirt models had plastic tanks, and all street models had steel tanks. Do an image search of the "late 80's rm forks" and they are not the ones found on 97-99 Dirt models or 98-99 street models. They may be similar or the same as some late 90's RM125 but not the 80's.
Another advantage - longer tyre wear.
About 6% better, 600km on a 10000km rear tyre, good 18" tyres are significantly cheaper though
When laced correctly spokes do not need to be "bed in". Look out how bicycle wheel builders bed in their spokes.
If sticking with the 17 rear, would you still recommend tubeless on the front?
It all depends. There are pros and cons to a TUbliss setup. You just need to work out how these work out for you.
@ in terms of remote touring, would you choose one over the other?
The legendary DR is still the GOAT
I did not know that Warp 9 made their wheels from cheap Chinese chineseium Barry. I am somewhat dissapointed.
It's the same alloys as the other manufacturers mate, look into it.....
@@MickH60 Just because Warp 9 claim their wheels are made from 7050 or whatever grade aluminium, doesn't necessarily make it so. There are several foundries in China making aluminium alloys, some make legit aerospec grades, others make Chinese Mystery Metal. I somehow doubt that rims advertised as being "half the price" do not have corners cut somewhere. Also those bling CNC billet hubs are often heavier than OEM hubs.
Can't see how a 18 inch wheel can lead to less punctures, a puncture is a puncture and I've never seen a size make a difference in that.
not less punctures !! but a wider tyres choice that lead to allow to install "puncture free" combos :
The tyre you prefer w/ "bib mousse" or TUbliss system
If it ain't broke don't fix it!! Put your money into suspension improvements. Fuck sake stop spending money on stuff that won't transform the bike that much.
This is a non-issue, if you need a different motorcycle, but a different motorcycle!
Suspension preferances are a non-issue also! I could never get a bike that felt great in all scenarios, so I just bought 8 different bikes! Thanks for the tip
Really clueless comment....
Hey m8, off topic but i'm subbed so maybe i'm just off track. Could I please ask/request/direct me if you have any thoughts on KTM (keeps taking money/ kick till midnight) moving their engine manufacturing to China? I'm not too clued up on the whole debacle and i'm curious to hear your take on it.
Discussed in a vid or two a few years back about Chinese made motorbikes. There were just two mid sized engines made in China a while ago but I suspect there's going to be a gradual transition... a year ago KTM announced 300 jobs axed in production and R and D. Me? I'd prefer to see them swing production to a more democratic country. E.g. Honda makes a lot of their cheaper models in Thailand now.
@@crosstrainingadventure Thanks m8. I agree. Pity because for that price I expect SS style perfection. Either way, it's pity Honda and the nip brands no longer produce their machines in their home country. Made in Japan = something that'll last forever.
@@cowboyanimal_1 As crosstrainingadventure said above, cheaper models are made in Thailand. Premium models such as the Africa Twin and CBR1000RR are still made in Japan. I think it's a good compromise as it makes the lower end bikes more affordable and by all reports the build quality is still good. I certainly have no complaints about my Thai made Gen 3 KLR650.
@@MotoWot Yeah nah, I don't mind Thailand, it's the Chinks I'm afraid of. Porsche's head of marketing recently said and I quote: "I can't understand why people are no longer buying our cars." after moving it all to the great communist paradise that is China.