My supreme compliments! You always make every repair and procedure look frightfully easy, and that is essential for a 71 years young West Virginiaian who sometimes believes that a pair of needle nosed pliers can also work as a tack hammer in a pinch. I have a 1999 Beemer Police model which I brought from a Salvation Army thrift store in California last year, and absolutely LOVE the girl. But the battery needs replacing, and on ANY OTHER motorcycle, it would be child's play. Maybe it still is. But not for me! It has crash bars attached. Pull them too, to get to any other screws, plaques, bells and whistles beneath the fairing? I'm game for anything right now, but I won't put a bullet inside her. Oh, Hell no! She's a grand Lady who needs to visit Portland, Maine, Portland, Ohio, and Portland, Oregon. Thanks for all you do! -Phil Smith.
Brother man your Engineering knowledge is always So gracefully cool and so wonderfully understandable thank you so much for helping us all out. 🛵🕺🏻💃🏽👙👀🛸
Good video Chris! On the R1100RT, the Fuel Tank Plate Float is only for the Low Level Fuel Light. The RID Fuel Gauge uses the float in the Sender Tube (front RH Top of Fuel Tank) for the fuel level.
@@mikerichey707 To replace the Sender Tube on the R100RT the Fuel Tank should first be drained and then removed. The easiest way to do this is to use the bike until you are almost out of fuel before removing the tank so that the tank is lighter and the minimum amount of fuel is required to be drained and stored. With the tank on the workbench, mark the position of the Fuel Pump Plate on the RH front inner side and remove the Plate containing the Fuel Pump, Fuel Filter and Low Fuel Light Assembly. Note that there is a 2-pole electrical connector from the Sender Tube to the Fuel Pump Plate which needs to be disconnected before the Plate can be completely removed. Once the Fuel Pump Plate has been completely removed, the Sender Tube can be withdrawn from the RH front top side of the Tank after removing the screws. The Sender Tube contains a Float which slides up and down between two resistance wires so varying the electrical resistance depending on the amount of fuel and the position of the float in the tube. The electrical resistance can be measured with a test meter and should vary between approximately 0 and 100 Ohms depending on the float position. The Sender Tube can be tested WITHOUT removing the Fuel Tank by measuring the Sender Tube resistance from the Fuel Tank Plate electrical connector just below the RH rear side of the tank after removing the RH Fairing Side Panel. It should measure between 0 and 100 Ohms depending on the amount of fuel in the tank. Do this first as it might save you a load of work! The pins of the Fuel Tank Plate electrical connector can suffer badly from corrosion so clean them first with Contact Cleaner and then protect them with Vaseline pressed into the connector pin housings. The pin numbers are marked on the connector and a Haynes manual electrical diagram will show you what pins are connected to the Sender Tube for testing. There are a couple of electrical ‘pass-through’ connections on the Fuel Tank Plate which can go high-resistance and fail - it is not possible to repair these if this happens and I had to buy a replacement used Plate to solve the problem. WARNING: Be VERY careful of fire and explosion if draining the Fuel Tank. Explosive vapours are generated which can be ignited by a naked flame or a small electrical spark. Try and do this work outdoors if possible so as to be in a well-ventilated space.
@@mikerichey707 Hope this works - Here is the R1100RT Fuel Plate Wiring Diagram showing how the Sender Tube is wired: blob:null/19f708ea-387a-4c45-a85f-0b90661dd13a Sorry - it doesn’t appear to work, I’m not sure if I can post a diagram .jpg file here - if you can post an email address I will send it to you via email. If you disconnect and short the Fuel Tank Connector pin 1 (Brown) to pin 3 (Yellow/Violet) on the Main Harness half of the connector (i.e. the connector half going to the Fuel Gauge NOT the half going to the Fuel Tank), then the Fuel Gauge should read 10 bars (full tank) after a delay of a few seconds. This proves that the Fuel Gauge part of the Rider Information Display (RID) is working. You can then measure the resistance on the other half of the connector, pins 1 (Brown, 2 of) & 3 (Yellow) going to the Fuel Tank Sender Tube and should get a reading between 0 Ohms (Full tank) and 100 Ohms (Empty tank) depending on how much fuel is in the tank and so the position of the float in the tube. If the RID Fuel Gauge works OK when pins 1 & 3 to it are shorted but no resistance can be measured from the Sender Tube then suspect a faulty 3 wire ‘pass-through’ connector on the Fuel Tank Plate carrying pin 1 (Brown wire, small) or pin 3 (Yellow wire) to the Sender Tube via the internal 2-pole connector. No resistance reading from the Sender Tube could also be due to the 2-pole connector not being reconnected after a Fuel Filter or Pump change.
Hi, I've been following you for a long time under the name as aykutalp. I have a 2004 R1150RT, approx. 80.000 km, no crash history, runs fine thanks to you with all the information you shared on your videos. There is one thing I couldn't solve or pinpoint the problem. When the bike is hot (5-6 bars on oil temp screen) the bike makes a knocking noise ( both sides equal) like it is loose, when I press the clutch it thickens the sound. The clutch piston bearing is changed. A mechanic guy which is qualified in boxer engines says it is the crank bearings. He says It is not lethal at the moment but don't drive at high rpms such as 6.000. I'm not a fast user but sometimes to avoid dangerous situations I drive hard. All the settings( tps, valve adj. etc..) filters, fluids, cables are proper and bike drives pretty good. What would be your opinion? Here is the video link showing the knocking sound. Thanks in advance th-cam.com/video/HdhnHZIX8gw/w-d-xo.html
Very helpful. I'm about to try and remove the tank on my '04 R1150RS so I can access the ABS. Is the Lisle Hose Removal Plier a must have or nice to have? Can I safely separate the hose by carefully using regular pliers, maybe with some tape on the ends for more protection? Thanks!
Hi Paul, unless you are replacing the fuel hoses you would not need the Lisle tool as your R1150 should be equipped with fuel hose quick disconnects. Those themselves should be replaced with these metal ones and you'd then cut away your old fuel hose with a razor knife. www.beemerboneyard.com/fuliqudise.html
Big fan and follower over the years, Chris, and have benefited greatly from your experience and wisdom. I've removed the tank from my R1150GS numerous times and have the quick disconnects installed for safety and convenience. Recently, I removed said tank to drain "suspicious" fuel and did so without incident. However, following the re-installation of the tank, my electricals suddenly went wonky. While the bike starts and runs fine, the ABS lights remain on and the system will not activate upon departure. The clock resets each time I start the bike and my Battery Tender will no longer maintain the charge! I'm suspecting a wiring loom/gas tank connector/plug issue. Any thoughts?
When I got my 2006 RT last year I was having clock issues so I ended up changing the battery on the bike and the clock has not been a problem since. How old is your battery? regards James from Down under.
@@jamesroyds5069 Greetings James! Thanks for weighing in on my issue and for sharing your experience from, apparently, the other side of the globe! Guess we're starting our own sub-Chris thread! So, I've owned the bike for 3 years and inherited the battery. Therefore, it's at least that old. . .Question/curiosity: Did your bike start fine with the prior battery and only the clock gave you trouble? Up until I most recently removed the tank, I never had any issues and then the clock situation emerged as well as the fact that the Battery Tender no longer registers charging on the bike (the charging unit otherwise operates fine). Thanks again, Steve
@@stevec2578 Hi Steve, Nice to hear from you. I too had a light stay on but upon investigation found that it was because of a blown brake light. Once changed the emergency light functioned normally. I think the break light failed when I tried to start the bike with the side stand down. Once I figured out the bike won't let you do that everything was good again. So ultimately my clock issue was due to a bad battery. I think the previous owner may have left the bike sitting for quite some time before I bought it. Since the new battery was installed the clock and bike have kept on ticking. Good luck with everything. Regards from Newcastle, Australia. James
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My supreme compliments! You always make every repair and procedure look frightfully easy, and that is essential for a 71 years young West Virginiaian who sometimes believes that a pair of needle nosed pliers can also work as a tack hammer in a pinch.
I have a 1999 Beemer Police model which I brought from a Salvation Army thrift store in California last year, and absolutely LOVE the girl. But the battery needs replacing, and on ANY OTHER motorcycle, it would be child's play. Maybe it still is. But not for me! It has crash bars attached. Pull them too, to get to any other screws, plaques, bells and whistles beneath the fairing? I'm game for anything right now, but I won't put a bullet inside her. Oh, Hell no! She's a grand Lady who needs to visit Portland, Maine, Portland, Ohio, and Portland, Oregon.
Thanks for all you do!
-Phil Smith.
Find it amazing that the electrical s are submerged in the tank. All I can think of is a big bang !
Brother man your Engineering knowledge is always So gracefully cool and so wonderfully understandable thank you so much for helping us all out. 🛵🕺🏻💃🏽👙👀🛸
Good video Chris!
On the R1100RT, the Fuel Tank Plate Float is only for the Low Level Fuel Light.
The RID Fuel Gauge uses the float in the Sender Tube (front RH Top of Fuel Tank) for the fuel level.
How to replace the Sender Tube?
@@mikerichey707 To replace the Sender Tube on the R100RT the Fuel Tank should first be drained and then removed.
The easiest way to do this is to use the bike until you are almost out of fuel before removing the tank so that the tank is lighter and the minimum amount of fuel is required to be drained and stored.
With the tank on the workbench, mark the position of the Fuel Pump Plate on the RH front inner side and remove the Plate containing the Fuel Pump, Fuel Filter and Low Fuel Light Assembly. Note that there is a 2-pole electrical connector from the Sender Tube to the Fuel Pump Plate which needs to be disconnected before the Plate can be completely removed.
Once the Fuel Pump Plate has been completely removed, the Sender Tube can be withdrawn from the RH front top side of the Tank after removing the screws.
The Sender Tube contains a Float which slides up and down between two resistance wires so varying the electrical resistance depending on the amount of fuel and the position of the float in the tube.
The electrical resistance can be measured with a test meter and should vary between approximately 0 and 100 Ohms depending on the float position.
The Sender Tube can be tested WITHOUT removing the Fuel Tank by measuring the Sender Tube resistance from the Fuel Tank Plate electrical connector just below the RH rear side of the tank after removing the RH Fairing Side Panel. It should measure between 0 and 100 Ohms depending on the amount of fuel in the tank.
Do this first as it might save you a load of work!
The pins of the Fuel Tank Plate electrical connector can suffer badly from corrosion so clean them first with Contact Cleaner and then protect them with Vaseline pressed into the connector pin housings.
The pin numbers are marked on the connector and a Haynes manual electrical diagram will show you what pins are connected to the Sender Tube for testing.
There are a couple of electrical ‘pass-through’ connections on the Fuel Tank Plate which can go high-resistance and fail - it is not possible to repair these if this happens and I had to buy a replacement used Plate to solve the problem.
WARNING: Be VERY careful of fire and explosion if draining the Fuel Tank. Explosive vapours are generated which can be ignited by a naked flame or a small electrical spark.
Try and do this work outdoors if possible so as to be in a well-ventilated space.
@@mikerichey707 Hope this works - Here is the R1100RT Fuel Plate Wiring Diagram showing how the Sender Tube is wired:
blob:null/19f708ea-387a-4c45-a85f-0b90661dd13a
Sorry - it doesn’t appear to work, I’m not sure if I can post a diagram .jpg file here - if you can post an email address I will send it to you via email.
If you disconnect and short the Fuel Tank Connector pin 1 (Brown) to pin 3 (Yellow/Violet) on the Main Harness half of the connector (i.e. the connector half going to the Fuel Gauge NOT the half going to the Fuel Tank), then the Fuel Gauge should read 10 bars (full tank) after a delay of a few seconds.
This proves that the Fuel Gauge part of the Rider Information Display (RID) is working.
You can then measure the resistance on the other half of the connector, pins 1 (Brown, 2 of) & 3 (Yellow) going to the Fuel Tank Sender Tube and should get a reading between 0 Ohms (Full tank) and 100 Ohms (Empty tank) depending on how much fuel is in the tank and so the position of the float in the tube.
If the RID Fuel Gauge works OK when pins 1 & 3 to it are shorted but no resistance can be measured from the Sender Tube then suspect a faulty 3 wire ‘pass-through’ connector on the Fuel Tank Plate carrying pin 1 (Brown wire, small) or pin 3 (Yellow wire) to the Sender Tube via the internal 2-pole connector.
No resistance reading from the Sender Tube could also be due to the 2-pole connector not being reconnected after a Fuel Filter or Pump change.
A very informative video. Maybe it is an omen telling me I SHOULD pick up an oil head. They are soooo reasonably priced these days.
I don't own a R1100RT, but still find this very interesting!
I like the leaving the belly fairing attached to one side piece.
I wonder if there was any stabilizer in that fuel. If anything, it could have been premium gas.
Hi, I've been following you for a long time under the name as aykutalp. I have a 2004 R1150RT, approx. 80.000 km, no crash history, runs fine thanks to you with all the information you shared on your videos. There is one thing I couldn't solve or pinpoint the problem. When the bike is hot (5-6 bars on oil temp screen) the bike makes a knocking noise ( both sides equal) like it is loose, when I press the clutch it thickens the sound. The clutch piston bearing is changed. A mechanic guy which is qualified in boxer engines says it is the crank bearings. He says It is not lethal at the moment but don't drive at high rpms such as 6.000. I'm not a fast user but sometimes to avoid dangerous situations I drive hard. All the settings( tps, valve adj. etc..) filters, fluids, cables are proper and bike drives pretty good. What would be your opinion? Here is the video link showing the knocking sound. Thanks in advance
th-cam.com/video/HdhnHZIX8gw/w-d-xo.html
Hi, can you show a tour of how you installed the radio and speakers on this bike?
Great Video Chris, Hope your keeping Well & Living the Dream👍👍
Having problems disconnecting fuel tank harness (fuel pump fuel level). You seemed to skip that... dang.
I love how simple you removed the hose clamp from the fuel pump with the pick. What pick is it? Is it a special BMW costly $$$ tool?
Very helpful. I'm about to try and remove the tank on my '04 R1150RS so I can access the ABS. Is the Lisle Hose Removal Plier a must have or nice to have? Can I safely separate the hose by carefully using regular pliers, maybe with some tape on the ends for more protection? Thanks!
Hi Paul, unless you are replacing the fuel hoses you would not need the Lisle tool as your R1150 should be equipped with fuel hose quick disconnects. Those themselves should be replaced with these metal ones and you'd then cut away your old fuel hose with a razor knife. www.beemerboneyard.com/fuliqudise.html
Thank you, thank you, thank you. It's like you had mental telepathy. I planned on removing my fuel pump and filter this upcoming weekend.
You can do it!
Brilliant as always. Any chance you could show the left hanger plate been taken off with the gear lever please? My gear lever is just floating about!!
Very good demo fella
keep em coming :-)
Big Boss,when i watch this i buy rt too
How will those hoses inside the tank cope with being immersed in E10 ethanol fuel ⛽️? Not very well I’m thinking.
Thanks Chris.
wow fuel pump is in good shape...most likely no ethanol
I'm watching this while the stock market crashes.
Hey Chris, any chance you could demonstrate adjustment of Throttle Position Sensor on an R1100R?
Настоящие пособие по ремонту.
Big fan and follower over the years, Chris, and have benefited greatly from your experience and wisdom. I've removed the tank from my R1150GS numerous times and have the quick disconnects installed for safety and convenience. Recently, I removed said tank to drain "suspicious" fuel and did so without incident. However, following the re-installation of the tank, my electricals suddenly went wonky. While the bike starts and runs fine, the ABS lights remain on and the system will not activate upon departure. The clock resets each time I start the bike and my Battery Tender will no longer maintain the charge! I'm suspecting a wiring loom/gas tank connector/plug issue. Any thoughts?
When I got my 2006 RT last year I was having clock issues so I ended up changing the battery on the bike and the clock has not been a problem since. How old is your battery? regards James from Down under.
@@jamesroyds5069 Greetings James! Thanks for weighing in on my issue and for sharing your experience from, apparently, the other side of the globe! Guess we're starting our own sub-Chris thread! So, I've owned the bike for 3 years and inherited the battery. Therefore, it's at least that old. . .Question/curiosity: Did your bike start fine with the prior battery and only the clock gave you trouble? Up until I most recently removed the tank, I never had any issues and then the clock situation emerged as well as the fact that the Battery Tender no longer registers charging on the bike (the charging unit otherwise operates fine). Thanks again, Steve
@@stevec2578 Hi Steve, Nice to hear from you. I too had a light stay on but upon investigation found that it was because of a blown brake light. Once changed the emergency light functioned normally. I think the break light failed when I tried to start the bike with the side stand down. Once I figured out the bike won't let you do that everything was good again. So ultimately my clock issue was due to a bad battery. I think the previous owner may have left the bike sitting for quite some time before I bought it. Since the new battery was installed the clock and bike have kept on ticking. Good luck with everything. Regards from Newcastle, Australia. James
So the k1100rs isn‘t so Bad After all, when ist comes down to removing the Tank..
Put away with a full tank of non-ethanol fuel?
I’m wondering how those hoses inside the tank will cope with E 10 ethanol fuel ⛽️. Not too well I’m thinking.
So, those vent hoses inside the tank, how do you know which is what?
How did you loose so much weight? You’re like a completely different person! I still miss the old Chris to be honest.
Lovely!
Man! You are my saver!!
Great, come over to where the good stuff is: www.patreon.com/user?u=25101320
Came for the detailed tank removal info, stayed for the hairdo and commentary.