hey man first time watching one of your videos, great work! Can you please tell me/share links of the cables you used to set up the Shinobi? I suppose it's all plugged by the V-Lock battery? I use a D-Tap to dummy buttery to plug the camera, what more can I do? I don't know anything about atomos so I have 0 accessories and don't know what to buy. I also need to understand the cable lenght cause I never got a monitor before today - coping the Shinobi II. Thank you!
Hey there, thanks for watching! The cables are all Kondor Blue. For example the coiled HDMI cable is geni.us/sPlUg5o and here’s the V-Mount plate geni.us/Vej0An and here’s a USB-4 cable geni.us/QjeAFa and here’s the S5II/S5IIx cage geni.us/KBPS5II and here’s the mondo ties, which are the little locks that hold everything in place geni.us/ajdJ - ultimately what you buy depends on the rig you’re building. It can take a while to rig out a camera just right, as you’ll take time deciding where to place items and handles and cables and so-on. It’s very personal. Best is probably to start with a cage and rails if you’re rigging that big, and start figuring out where you want to add things, and get the accessories for it as you go!
That 65535 is a maximum numeric value for a 16 bit number. Seems that the external battery is proving a value that is above the threshold in the firmware and some type of overflow is happening or something.
Any issues with the Kondor Blue coiled HDMI cable on the GH7 with shinobi ii if shooting 4k60. What version of the cable are you using? Is it available in UK?
If you're shooting in Log, then you can add whatever LUT you like (or just use the built-in Rec709, which personally I think looks great). I only ever shoot in Log so can't really comment on if a standard profile appears more contrasty or not. Regardless of the image on display though, the only real truth is the scopes.
You mention the monitor can accept signal up to 4K30, have you tested it with a 4K60 signal? I imagine it would cope but would be useful to know. Thanks for comprehensive review, thanks for not speeding it up, and thanks for setting your voice level properly.
I haven’t tested 4K60p but I’d imagine it’s just a black screen. That’s what I’ve experienced with other monitors. And you’re welcome for the quality of the video. I try! ☺️
@@photojoseph so just for clarification I fi was shooting 4k60 on the gh7 would I not be able to monitor it with the shinobi ii OR I would but the signal would be downscaled (the recording to camera would still be 4k60 for example but the monitor would be showing a downscaled version, is that right?)
If you’re shooting 4K60 then the output for monitoring needs to be downscaled, which will by default happen automatically. If you look in HDMI output settings you’ll find ability to force a resolution or let it automatically adapt to whatever is plugged in.
I have a Sony camera, and I don’t want my Shinobi monitor to charge the camera’s battery. However, I do want to keep the camera control feature enabled. Is there a way to disable the charging function while keeping camera control, or is disconnecting the camera control cable the only solution?
To access Arri and el zone I saw another user hit gear icon in false color mode for more options. Does this work as well with this monitor? You did not hit gear icon in false color in this video
@@photojoseph yep already using it. Works great outdoors to nail exposure on humans and animals. Kinda weird getting use to and was sceptical when important last week's footage into davanci and applying color transition but it works. Dynamic range is there with no noise in shadows means clog works correct for elzone with 50 percent middle grey even though clog is like 31 or so.
I almost pulled the trigger for this until I realized it was NOT a recorder. That would have been a too-good deal when it comes to camera gear. I just want to record 10-bit out for my Fujifilm X-S10, but there aren't recorders for my budget that do this. I regret not buying an X-T4 instead. Well, the difference would have been pretty much the same as Atomos Ninja V or Blackmagic Video Assist 12G.
Ah yeah, definitely not a recorder. I think the Ninja V is a better value and you can probably get one used for cheap. They’ve been around for a while. I really like the video assist as well but it can be expensive. Of course if you want ProRes raw or Blackmagic raw then that dictates the recorder you buy.
I've had nothing but issues with 2 of these monitors now. Even after their most recent update. Try taking a photo and I just end up with a black screen that I can only get rid of by disconnecting the HDMI cable, it even bricks my R6mk2 until I remove the HDMI. I don't even try using the USBC cable to control my camera as it has only given me issues. I don't think the software on these is all that great.
@@photojoseph Lucky. Yeah have an ongoing ticket with them. Although I'm having a hard time getting across what I'm seeing. Not sure how I could make it any clearer though. Suspect language barrier. Funnily enough I'm getting the same issues on my R7. I'm aware it's not officially supported. However I've totally given up on the whole camera control aspect of this monitor. Just causes so many headaches.
Do you think something like this would be better than using something like an S24 Ultra with USB-C via the Monitor+ app or the Sony Monitor app? Cheers!
Absolutely. First off, using your phone means your phone is tied up. I never liked the idea of using your phone as a camera monitor, except in a pinch. But mainly, this monitor has all the professional exposure monitoring tools, plus a battery that can be swapped out and simultaneously power the camera. Can’t do that with a phone!
Powering ,size,and weght and tools are awesome looks like! 🔥Great video.would love a tiny air glu in monitor. Could a fw allow it to conect and read and utilize the original sync module to control record control across the recorder line to use this in run n gun and start stop the recorders on other cameras!?🤪Thank You
You’re not the first to ask for AirGlu in it. To be fair that’d increase the cost and I’m sure the goal here was to make as affordable but as high quality monitor as possible. I think they nailed it! Thanks for watching, I appreciate it!
Did you have an issue with the onscreen record button not becoming functional until only after you had hit record on the camera first and then turn it off? It is “greyed” out on the unit unless I start to record and then stop on camera first then it will allow me to use the units record feature. This is when using the S5ii.
Hm, no. Are you sure I’ve pressed the camera button on the Shogun? That enters the “camera control” mode. That’s where you can change camera settings and also start/stop recording.
@@photojoseph yes I’m in that mode and it starts off greyed out until I do what I described in my comment only then will it work. Maybe it needs to be updated which I have not checked yet. Thanks for responding back. Appreciate it and enjoy your channel!
Hi Great video- just got mine but mine shows the camera settings under the bottom shinobi icons which is weird and it turns the lcd camera screen off which isn’t great as i need it for touch focus - have I got this set up correct? Sony a7 4
I’m not sure I understand about the camera control icons. Do they look the same as in the video? When you tap the camera icon (2nd from the left I think) it changes the controls to camera controls. As for the Sony display going off - no idea; I don’t have Sony cameras sorry.
@@photojoseph thank you, and how about thermals? in other video talk about when there is a battery behind it under a sunny day with over 30ceclius it lose brightness
As far as I know, calibration has always been available on pretty much all of the Atomos monitors. The Shinobi II makes it easier because it has a USB port so you can plug the calibration tool directly into it. With the other monitors, you need to install software on your computer and use a special USB to 2.5mm cable which is available from Atomos. I’m actually going to do a video on this pretty soon.
@@photojoseph Great. Thank you. I've never seen this option on the old Ninja V. But as I've just done a Atomos Firmware update, lets see. I appreciate you coming back to reply to me personally and exciting you are doing a video on this.
I'm planning to answer your question on the live show, Friday 2024-11-29 14:00 GMT -- if you can't be there, of course the replay will be available! th-cam.com/users/liveRw2dAMCLPxI?feature=share
Well i’ve bought the Shinobi II after i saw your video. But i saw an issue right away. Updated the device and lots of stuff are fixed….but still im not getting PD Out, or atleast the right amount. Tried with S5ii and S5iiX…on both cameras when usb c connected it says its connected and will use power via the usb c….but instead of that it uses the internal battery….i see it because it drains. Is this Watt issue or atomos issue? Because usually i keep the battery inside and plug usb c to dtap than to v mount and i only change the v mount battery and the camera never uses the internal battery. Here this is not the case
@@photojoseph thank you for replying! I think i know whats causing it… the usb c is only 13w output and i guess the s5ii/x needs 27. not an electro-engineer but… not charging neithet of my cameras.
@@sambowks bro you need to chill out. You’re spamming the channel calling the product crap but have also pointed out that you’re using it on a non-compatible camera. It’s not the product’s fault if you’re using it on an unsupported camera.
I just bought the shinobi 2 and feel that the display gets really really hot while using. Is this normal or should I be concerned? Other than that, i see people using a conversion lut from slog3 to rec709 and on top of that a creative lut. How is that possible?
It does run hot, yes. That’s normal. You’ve probably seen a LUT on top of the native Rec709 conversion. You can load LUTs onto the Shinobi II; that’s the primary purpose of the SD slot.
@@photojoseph ah thanks. That calms me a little haha. Yes right. But how do I apply the rec 709 conversion? That's what I'm searching for. Haha. I want the rec 709 conversion and afterwards activate my own lut
I don't have the unit in front of me, but once the camera is identified by the device (should happen automatically; it'll show in the top right of the screen), then in the monitor tab (pretty sure it's the monitor tab), you can choose "native" or "709" or something similar. Oh wait… hmm I see the problem, I think. I'll need to look at it. Sorry to say I'm going to be out of the studio until next week. Comment again then so I see it new and I'll check it out. Or, it might be quicker to ask Atomos support. If you do please share the response here.
@@photojoseph okay but I believe you have either to choose if you do native or rec or lut. Not both at the same time. Or am I wrong? I will have a look at it later
@@photojoseph am sorry I don't have much to give, I have Learnt and gain SO MUCH! from you for years, I had to give at least something, likes and Subscribing to your channel is not enough I had to give something extra, to say Thank you sir.
This thing sucks! I have one. Terrible laggy and ghosty lcd, with really bad colour banging. It can’t supply enough power via usbc to my R5C. So it has camera control for R5C but you can’t use it because it can’t power the camera via the control cable 🤣
I've also had this issue with R5C i cant seem to PD to the camera via the monitor no matter what i do. I have contacted Atomos and they mentioned i need a PD capable of at least 30w output which i have. I can power the monitor and the camera directly out of the battery but when i go through the PD port from the monitor it wont power the camera and only charges the battery when the camera is off and only if the monitor is on! Is PD just something thats not possible with the R5C? It seems like it should be extremely straight forward but proving not to be and there is very little info on it, any help would be appreciated. thanks
@RandallJacobson-bz6gq cameras can handle PD in two different ways. They can either actively power the camera, or they can only charge the battery when the camera is turned off. That varies from camera to camera and has nothing to do with the Atomos or PD itself. You can test it by just plugging a sufficiently powerful wall charger that supports PD into the camera without the shogun involved and see what happens.
@@photojoseph hi thanks for replying. I’m still confused because when I go direct out of the battery via the usbc whilst it’s powering the monitor I get PD and charge to camera. It’s only when I try to us the PD via the monitor that it doesn’t work? It can only be the monitor stopping it right?
ok, so this has an extra cable needed blocking the ability to record to an ssd in order to give me some sort of partial camera control. What i understand by camera control is what sony and dji have done with their wireless transmitter. Full camera control wirelessly from miles away. Okay, i exagerated. but that is not camera control as i can not switch codecs and recording options, custom af settings or synchro scan on and off. nor is it under any circumstances practical to have my usb-c port on the camera blocked by some willy nitty display. if this product was free, i would still not be interested in it.
My 2nd Atomos Ninja V just failed on me @photoJoseph. Hoping Atomos will repair for free! I far prefer the Ninja V for recording to fast Sata SSD's rather than expensive memory cards. I wonder if Atomos will do a M.2 SSD version of their recorder. This is Shark Joseph. I think the Shinobi II is step in right direction, but I need recording.
hey man first time watching one of your videos, great work! Can you please tell me/share links of the cables you used to set up the Shinobi? I suppose it's all plugged by the V-Lock battery?
I use a D-Tap to dummy buttery to plug the camera, what more can I do? I don't know anything about atomos so I have 0 accessories and don't know what to buy.
I also need to understand the cable lenght cause I never got a monitor before today - coping the Shinobi II.
Thank you!
Hey there, thanks for watching! The cables are all Kondor Blue. For example the coiled HDMI cable is geni.us/sPlUg5o and here’s the V-Mount plate geni.us/Vej0An and here’s a USB-4 cable geni.us/QjeAFa and here’s the S5II/S5IIx cage geni.us/KBPS5II and here’s the mondo ties, which are the little locks that hold everything in place geni.us/ajdJ - ultimately what you buy depends on the rig you’re building. It can take a while to rig out a camera just right, as you’ll take time deciding where to place items and handles and cables and so-on. It’s very personal. Best is probably to start with a cage and rails if you’re rigging that big, and start figuring out where you want to add things, and get the accessories for it as you go!
Do you mind going more into the calibration steps please? Or if you have please let me know which video! Thanks for all the help boss!
Yeah that’s definitely on the list. Currently sorting out how to do more videos in a month 😅 I’ll get there for sure!
@ do what you can boss whatever you do helps people anyways so no sweat keep up the good work!
@christiannoyes1521 man, creators like me love viewers like you. Keep doin’ what you’re doin’!!
That 65535 is a maximum numeric value for a 16 bit number. Seems that the external battery is proving a value that is above the threshold in the firmware and some type of overflow is happening or something.
Ha! Good catch!
Any issues with the Kondor Blue coiled HDMI cable on the GH7 with shinobi ii if shooting 4k60. What version of the cable are you using? Is it available in UK?
Kondor Blue cables are great. Zero problems. Available globally. geni.us/w7NX
If I film vertical will I need to have the monitor in a vertical position also to show 9:16?
Well… if your camera is sideways, then so will the monitor be.
Atomos screens always seem to add contrast to the camera output. They are also soooo power hungry.
If you're shooting in Log, then you can add whatever LUT you like (or just use the built-in Rec709, which personally I think looks great). I only ever shoot in Log so can't really comment on if a standard profile appears more contrasty or not. Regardless of the image on display though, the only real truth is the scopes.
YES!!! So dang power hungry.
You mention the monitor can accept signal up to 4K30, have you tested it with a 4K60 signal? I imagine it would cope but would be useful to know. Thanks for comprehensive review, thanks for not speeding it up, and thanks for setting your voice level properly.
I haven’t tested 4K60p but I’d imagine it’s just a black screen. That’s what I’ve experienced with other monitors. And you’re welcome for the quality of the video. I try! ☺️
@@photojoseph so just for clarification I fi was shooting 4k60 on the gh7 would I not be able to monitor it with the shinobi ii OR I would but the signal would be downscaled (the recording to camera would still be 4k60 for example but the monitor would be showing a downscaled version, is that right?)
If you’re shooting 4K60 then the output for monitoring needs to be downscaled, which will by default happen automatically. If you look in HDMI output settings you’ll find ability to force a resolution or let it automatically adapt to whatever is plugged in.
I have a Sony camera, and I don’t want my Shinobi monitor to charge the camera’s battery. However, I do want to keep the camera control feature enabled. Is there a way to disable the charging function while keeping camera control, or is disconnecting the camera control cable the only solution?
There’s a menu option on Sony cameras to turn off charging while connected.
Does this new monitor support el zone and Arri false color when using a log only input?
To access Arri and el zone I saw another user hit gear icon in false color mode for more options. Does this work as well with this monitor? You did not hit gear icon in false color in this video
As I'm sure you saw by now, EL Zone and Arri were added in a recent firmware update! th-cam.com/video/TixH7vN660g/w-d-xo.html
@@photojoseph yep already using it. Works great outdoors to nail exposure on humans and animals. Kinda weird getting use to and was sceptical when important last week's footage into davanci and applying color transition but it works. Dynamic range is there with no noise in shadows means clog works correct for elzone with 50 percent middle grey even though clog is like 31 or so.
I almost pulled the trigger for this until I realized it was NOT a recorder. That would have been a too-good deal when it comes to camera gear. I just want to record 10-bit out for my Fujifilm X-S10, but there aren't recorders for my budget that do this. I regret not buying an X-T4 instead. Well, the difference would have been pretty much the same as Atomos Ninja V or Blackmagic Video Assist 12G.
Ah yeah, definitely not a recorder. I think the Ninja V is a better value and you can probably get one used for cheap. They’ve been around for a while. I really like the video assist as well but it can be expensive. Of course if you want ProRes raw or Blackmagic raw then that dictates the recorder you buy.
I've had nothing but issues with 2 of these monitors now. Even after their most recent update. Try taking a photo and I just end up with a black screen that I can only get rid of by disconnecting the HDMI cable, it even bricks my R6mk2 until I remove the HDMI. I don't even try using the USBC cable to control my camera as it has only given me issues. I don't think the software on these is all that great.
Oh no! I’ve had no problems on LUMIX cameras. That sucks! Have you talked to Atomos about it?
@@photojoseph Lucky. Yeah have an ongoing ticket with them. Although I'm having a hard time getting across what I'm seeing. Not sure how I could make it any clearer though. Suspect language barrier. Funnily enough I'm getting the same issues on my R7. I'm aware it's not officially supported. However I've totally given up on the whole camera control aspect of this monitor. Just causes so many headaches.
Record a video of the problem. Might be the easiest way to communicate it. Sorry man; good luck!
Do you think something like this would be better than using something like an S24 Ultra with USB-C via the Monitor+ app or the Sony Monitor app? Cheers!
Absolutely. First off, using your phone means your phone is tied up. I never liked the idea of using your phone as a camera monitor, except in a pinch. But mainly, this monitor has all the professional exposure monitoring tools, plus a battery that can be swapped out and simultaneously power the camera. Can’t do that with a phone!
Powering ,size,and weght and tools are awesome looks like! 🔥Great video.would love a tiny air glu in monitor. Could a fw allow it to conect and read and utilize the original sync module to control record control across the recorder line to use this in run n gun and start stop the recorders on other cameras!?🤪Thank You
You’re not the first to ask for AirGlu in it. To be fair that’d increase the cost and I’m sure the goal here was to make as affordable but as high quality monitor as possible. I think they nailed it! Thanks for watching, I appreciate it!
@@photojoseph agree! Thank You
Did you have an issue with the onscreen record button not becoming functional until only after you had hit record on the camera first and then turn it off? It is “greyed” out on the unit unless I start to record and then stop on camera first then it will allow me to use the units record feature. This is when using the S5ii.
Hm, no. Are you sure I’ve pressed the camera button on the Shogun? That enters the “camera control” mode. That’s where you can change camera settings and also start/stop recording.
@@photojoseph yes I’m in that mode and it starts off greyed out until I do what I described in my comment only then will it work. Maybe it needs to be updated which I have not checked yet.
Thanks for responding back. Appreciate it and enjoy your channel!
@@bedleman9098 interesting. There has been an update since it shipped. I will be doing some work with it next week, and will keep an eye on that.
So I did the update and it fixed that issue.
@@bedleman9098fantastic!
Hi Great video- just got mine but mine shows the camera settings under the bottom shinobi icons which is weird and it turns the lcd camera screen off which isn’t great as i need it for touch focus - have I got this set up correct? Sony a7 4
I’m not sure I understand about the camera control icons. Do they look the same as in the video? When you tap the camera icon (2nd from the left I think) it changes the controls to camera controls. As for the Sony display going off - no idea; I don’t have Sony cameras sorry.
Cool monitor❤
I concur 😊
What the link to the small rig battery?
Here you go! geni.us/NPF970
You didn’t end up going over the calibration option 😢
Not in this one. I didnt have the cable. I’ll cover that in a dedicated video soon.
@@photojoseph ahh so you still need the xrite setup for calibration like the old Shinobi? Did you find colors to be accurate from factory?
Yes you do. I haven’t felt it to be inaccurate, no. But I haven’t calibrated deliberately so I can calibrate on camera.
Hello, if i put the monitor on a nikon z8 at 8k... the monitor should display at 4k?
It’s an HD monitor. Not 4K.
@@photojoseph thank you, and how about thermals? in other video talk about when there is a battery behind it under a sunny day with over 30ceclius it lose brightness
I haven’t tested that but that makes sense especially if it’s exposed to the sun. Think about your phone; it’ll do that too and it costs way more!
Great review.
Thanks!
Is the Calibration option only available on the Shinobi II or is it a Atmos OS update for say the Ninja V?
As far as I know, calibration has always been available on pretty much all of the Atomos monitors. The Shinobi II makes it easier because it has a USB port so you can plug the calibration tool directly into it. With the other monitors, you need to install software on your computer and use a special USB to 2.5mm cable which is available from Atomos. I’m actually going to do a video on this pretty soon.
@@photojoseph Great. Thank you. I've never seen this option on the old Ninja V. But as I've just done a Atomos Firmware update, lets see. I appreciate you coming back to reply to me personally and exciting you are doing a video on this.
I think Atomos just doesn’t really promote it much. But it’s there!
@@Filmmaker809 it’s not something you would see in the device’s menus. It relies entirely on external software. www.atomos.com/calibration/
@@photojoseph Thanks for the link, Joseph!
🤷S9 touch focus coming ?.Had to ask😅Thank You
I'm planning to answer your question on the live show, Friday 2024-11-29 14:00 GMT -- if you can't be there, of course the replay will be available! th-cam.com/users/liveRw2dAMCLPxI?feature=share
Well i’ve bought the Shinobi II after i saw your video. But i saw an issue right away. Updated the device and lots of stuff are fixed….but still im not getting PD Out, or atleast the right amount. Tried with S5ii and S5iiX…on both cameras when usb c connected it says its connected and will use power via the usb c….but instead of that it uses the internal battery….i see it because it drains. Is this Watt issue or atomos issue? Because usually i keep the battery inside and plug usb c to dtap than to v mount and i only change the v mount battery and the camera never uses the internal battery. Here this is not the case
I didn’t see this on mine. I had a preproduction unit and I’m waiting for a shipping version to come, then can check these things out.
@@photojoseph thank you for replying! I think i know whats causing it… the usb c is only 13w output and i guess the s5ii/x needs 27. not an electro-engineer but… not charging neithet of my cameras.
Crap product
@@sambowks bro you need to chill out. You’re spamming the channel calling the product crap but have also pointed out that you’re using it on a non-compatible camera. It’s not the product’s fault if you’re using it on an unsupported camera.
I just bought the shinobi 2 and feel that the display gets really really hot while using. Is this normal or should I be concerned? Other than that, i see people using a conversion lut from slog3 to rec709 and on top of that a creative lut. How is that possible?
It does run hot, yes. That’s normal. You’ve probably seen a LUT on top of the native Rec709 conversion. You can load LUTs onto the Shinobi II; that’s the primary purpose of the SD slot.
@@photojoseph ah thanks. That calms me a little haha. Yes right. But how do I apply the rec 709 conversion? That's what I'm searching for. Haha. I want the rec 709 conversion and afterwards activate my own lut
I don't have the unit in front of me, but once the camera is identified by the device (should happen automatically; it'll show in the top right of the screen), then in the monitor tab (pretty sure it's the monitor tab), you can choose "native" or "709" or something similar. Oh wait… hmm I see the problem, I think. I'll need to look at it. Sorry to say I'm going to be out of the studio until next week. Comment again then so I see it new and I'll check it out. Or, it might be quicker to ask Atomos support. If you do please share the response here.
@@photojoseph okay but I believe you have either to choose if you do native or rec or lut. Not both at the same time. Or am I wrong? I will have a look at it later
Yeah that’s what I need to check. Again; post on here next week when I’m back. If you do it now I won’t see this then.
Thanks!
Thank YOU!!
@@photojoseph am sorry I don't have much to give, I have Learnt and gain SO MUCH! from you for years, I had to give at least something, likes and Subscribing to your channel is not enough I had to give something extra, to say Thank you sir.
In that case I appreciate it even more 😊 I hope I can continue to give!
@@photojoseph definitely!! it will continue
how to hdmi out for wireless transmitter?
Use a wireless hdmi with a pass through. Although that will likely add a frame or two delay. This is a budget monitor - no pass through.
is it true that it heats up a lot, that it burns?
Not at all. Where did you hear that?
No HDMI out!? 😫 say buy to your wireless director’s monitor system.
This is a budget monitor. Budget shooters don’t have a wireless follow focus system, operator, or director.
This thing sucks! I have one. Terrible laggy and ghosty lcd, with really bad colour banging. It can’t supply enough power via usbc to my R5C. So it has camera control for R5C but you can’t use it because it can’t power the camera via the control cable 🤣
That's not been my experience at all. Perhaps you have a bad unit -- it happens. I recommend checking in with Atomos support.
I've also had this issue with R5C i cant seem to PD to the camera via the monitor no matter what i do.
I have contacted Atomos and they mentioned i need a PD capable of at least 30w output which i have.
I can power the monitor and the camera directly out of the battery but when i go through the PD port from the monitor it wont power the camera and only charges the battery when the camera is off and only if the monitor is on!
Is PD just something thats not possible with the R5C? It seems like it should be extremely straight forward but proving not to be and there is very little info on it, any help would be appreciated. thanks
@RandallJacobson-bz6gq cameras can handle PD in two different ways. They can either actively power the camera, or they can only charge the battery when the camera is turned off. That varies from camera to camera and has nothing to do with the Atomos or PD itself. You can test it by just plugging a sufficiently powerful wall charger that supports PD into the camera without the shogun involved and see what happens.
@@photojoseph hi thanks for replying. I’m still confused because when I go direct out of the battery via the usbc whilst it’s powering the monitor I get PD and charge to camera. It’s only when I try to us the PD via the monitor that it doesn’t work? It can only be the monitor stopping it right?
ok, so this has an extra cable needed blocking the ability to record to an ssd in order to give me some sort of partial camera control. What i understand by camera control is what sony and dji have done with their wireless transmitter. Full camera control wirelessly from miles away. Okay, i exagerated. but that is not camera control as i can not switch codecs and recording options, custom af settings or synchro scan on and off. nor is it under any circumstances practical to have my usb-c port on the camera blocked by some willy nitty display. if this product was free, i would still not be interested in it.
My 2nd Atomos Ninja V just failed on me @photoJoseph. Hoping Atomos will repair for free! I far prefer the Ninja V for recording to fast Sata SSD's rather than expensive memory cards. I wonder if Atomos will do a M.2 SSD version of their recorder. This is Shark Joseph. I think the Shinobi II is step in right direction, but I need recording.
That’s sucks to hear! Hope they do too. An M.2 version would be sweet!
@@photojoseph Thanx Buddy. I met Atomos in London and told them exactly that.
Thanks!
Hey, thank you!!