It makes no difference. If they had a warrant they could have just crack open your safe. It them additional 30 mins max and renders your safe useless. Up to you.
I just recently had to break into my electronic gun safe. The electronic failure was due to a tiny solenoid which is the part that releases the locking mechanism. It had lost continuity in its wiring therefore making it dead. Nothing to do but to tear into it. To all my friends out there who have one of these electronic safes....get rid of it and get a tried and true tumbler unit. It's a sick feeling when it won't open and you've tried everything the experts said do. Never again for me.
Everyone should know that Canon no longer maintains the master reset code for your safe if you forget your combination. They just say drill the lock... so your safe becomes a large box that anyone can get into.
My e-lock just failed making the safe basically a boat anchor. Well I guess it saved me that expense. LOL. Go mechanical and save yourself a lot of trouble and expense. The cost to drill open the safe witrh the failed E-lock is a chunk of change. So i'll probably just wheel it out to the driveway and cut it open with a gas saw and metal blade. Will take a while... but not terribly hard and I can use the money I saved for a better safe. Glad I didn't bolt it down. And no I'm not worried about the safe getting stolen, just "unauthorized" access to the contents.
What if the E-Lock itself fails, without a back up key, i.e. Liberty safes have NO back up keys, the mechanical lock knobs are made out of plastic...My problem with this is, you call in a locksmith, he will get the safe open for you, after drilling, now you have a $800.00 plus safe with a door that opens & closes but no longer locks...Personally I think it is arrogance on the US manufacturers part for giving ZERO options to open the safe back up if/when the latch fails or the key pad fails in all eventualities, requiring a locksmith to get into the safe... Bill... :~)
It's disheartening to hear that the lock mfg keeps a backup safety combo as well as the corresponding database of personal information required to validate identity before sharing that combo. Sounds like a major weakness. Maybe the lock can be locally configured to disable this feature.
Almost every safe I looked at had a starting code of 1,2,3,4 or 1,2,3,4,5,6.... works great if your battery dies and it loses memory from sitting dead a long time afterwards. A locksmith is $400+ to drill and open it for you otherwise. Tip: Don’t let the battery die, then the memory capacitor. Then it won’t be vulnerable.
@@JimmyMakingitwork Safes have nonvolatile memory that will retain the code indefinitely without power. There’s no capacitor. I don’t believe there is a back door combo like the video claims. Maybe for low security lock boxes, but not for safes.
@@JimmyMakingitwork Try 400-800. Besides that it’s ALWAYS closer to the 800, especially if they see you’re in need and/or it’s a good size safe at that. Hell for that you can just go buy another one and then drill it yourself!
A lot of misinformation here that lock eventually will go bad and you need a way to get in your safe a lot of people by states that are used change to combo you definitely need one with an override key or a lockout key as it's called you don't get that you were screwed
I have a Liberty safe with electronic lock. Should have put more thought into the purchase. It later occurred to me that a thwarted thief would happily bust up the lock pad out of spite. Then what??!! Thought perhaps there might be a flash drive inside the door separate from the lock pad. I submitted this question to Liberty three separate times this past month. ABSOLUTELY NO RESPONSE WHATSOEVER . . . crickets!!! Tells me all I need to know about both Liberty and electronic locks!!!
Yes, we recommend you have a licensed locksmith switch it out. You can contact our Service team for assistance lining that up. 1-800-247-5625 customerservice@libertysafe.com
Why is it that many quality safes with e-locks will give you a lifetime transferable warranty on the safe, but only 5 years on the e-lock? What happens after 5 years if the e-lock goes bad? This is a real problem, as most buy a safe as a long-term investment and the lock is critical to it’s functionality.
I was able to purchase a lifetime warranty on my electronic lock from the safe company. Of course, "lifetime" is only as good as long as the company remains in business. A Champion division in my case.
A complete article would say, "like an electronic lock, you can change the combination on a mechanical lock, as often as you like." ..Just buy a change key once... and change when you like.
"We recommend Duracell batteries".... Not because they are good, in fact they didn't get the name duraleak for no reason, rather, we are getting paid to say they are good... When in fact duracell sucks. Get an energizer lithium. It will last you ten years.
So...if the battery dies, I cannot open the safe. No way would I put one in my safe. And, what will happen when someone hacks those master codes? It's only a matter of time! They break into "secure" systems all the time. You hear about that almost every day. I can get into my safe in 20 seconds or less. Keep your electronic keypads, I will keep my S&G combination locks that usually have a couple of relocking devices built-in. If it gets destroyed, then it has done it's job.
You have probably resolved the issue by now but I had the same issue this week. Here is how I resolved the problem: remove the battery (disconnect it) then press zero and hold for 10 seconds. Replace the battery and enter your combination. It worked for me the first time.
@@CaptainRon1913 Nope the locked failed even with a new battery change, I had to email Securam for a new lock. So the best advice is to always have a replacement lock just in case the original fails. All electronic devices can fail at any moment some just take longer than others.
Mine failed too. I’ve only had one combination, never changed it and now it won’t open. I tried several “copper top” batteries, nothing. Luckily, my safe is empty at the moment so no need to panic, just a pita.
Funny - No reviews cover the fact that the Taylor Instruments Phoenix can open most electronics except the Kama Mas X-## series and the S&G 2740 (Not available for purchase by unimportant people) because of out of band info leakage - variations in current draw, time to beep, etc. depending on digits pressed. Such a glaring omission makes me wonder how these even get Group I certification. I did ask the S&G rep about my Titan D-Drive and he confirmed the Phoenix does indeed to what is says, but as a practical matter, it is not an issue as few ne'er-do-wells have that $3000 gadget.
Cannon safes do not have a master code. You will be told call a lock smith. They will give you a number for the locksmith to call for drill points. GREAT!
Fellas- I typed in my code (liberty revere 72) and it starts beeping (can’t open safe). Pulled battery (bought this a few weeks ago) and put in a brand new Duracell. Doesn’t work.. still beeps.. any suggestions?
The electronic ones are garbage the batteries die out fast and so do the board you're going to hit that button one day and it's not going to do anything
3:23 "Hello, Liberty Safe? Yes, this is the ATF... I seemed to have lost the combo of my friend's safe... can you send it to me? You can? Awesome."
It makes no difference. If they had a warrant they could have just crack open your safe. It them additional 30 mins max and renders your safe useless. Up to you.
I just recently had to break into my electronic gun safe. The electronic failure was due to a tiny solenoid which is the part that releases the locking mechanism. It had lost continuity in its wiring therefore making it dead. Nothing to do but to tear into it. To all my friends out there who have one of these electronic safes....get rid of it and get a tried and true tumbler unit. It's a sick feeling when it won't open and you've tried everything the experts said do. Never again for me.
Side note. I'm welding mine up and putting four different pad locks to make it as safe as I can.
rolls eyes
Everyone should know that Canon no longer maintains the master reset code for your safe if you forget your combination. They just say drill the lock... so your safe becomes a large box that anyone can get into.
My e-lock just failed making the safe basically a boat anchor. Well I guess it saved me that expense. LOL. Go mechanical and save yourself a lot of trouble and expense. The cost to drill open the safe witrh the failed E-lock is a chunk of change. So i'll probably just wheel it out to the driveway and cut it open with a gas saw and metal blade. Will take a while... but not terribly hard and I can use the money I saved for a better safe. Glad I didn't bolt it down. And no I'm not worried about the safe getting stolen, just "unauthorized" access to the contents.
Awesome video! Very informative! Thanks. 👍.
If I lock my wife and dog in my safe for an hour, which one will be happy to see me when I open the door???
The police…
If the elock fails, can you simply buy a new elock and install it on the door or does the safe have to be drilled open?
rolls eyes
Where is the link to the SecuRam EMP example?
Show More...
@@QuietStormX Where do you see it? It's not there.
thanks, a life saver
Critical to observe that EMP "resistant" is *not* the same thing as EMP "proof"... I'll stay with mechanical, thank you very much..
Yeah, those pesky EMP's that happen all the time
What if the E-Lock itself fails, without a back up key, i.e. Liberty safes have NO back up keys, the mechanical lock knobs are made out of plastic...My problem with this is, you call in a locksmith, he will get the safe open for you, after drilling, now you have a $800.00 plus safe with a door that opens & closes but no longer locks...Personally I think it is arrogance on the US manufacturers part for giving ZERO options to open the safe back up if/when the latch fails or the key pad fails in all eventualities, requiring a locksmith to get into the safe...
Bill... :~)
Ask when the actuator goes out... on the inside.
It's disheartening to hear that the lock mfg keeps a backup safety combo as well as the corresponding database of personal information required to validate identity before sharing that combo. Sounds like a major weakness. Maybe the lock can be locally configured to disable this feature.
Almost every safe I looked at had a starting code of 1,2,3,4 or 1,2,3,4,5,6.... works great if your battery dies and it loses memory from sitting dead a long time afterwards.
A locksmith is $400+ to drill and open it for you otherwise.
Tip: Don’t let the battery die, then the memory capacitor. Then it won’t be vulnerable.
@@JimmyMakingitwork Safes have nonvolatile memory that will retain the code indefinitely without power. There’s no capacitor. I don’t believe there is a back door combo like the video claims. Maybe for low security lock boxes, but not for safes.
@@JimmyMakingitwork Try 400-800. Besides that it’s ALWAYS closer to the 800, especially if they see you’re in need and/or it’s a good size safe at that. Hell for that you can just go buy another one and then drill it yourself!
@@RedShiftedDollar Do you still believe that now, after Liberty gives up the code to the Feds without even been subpoenaed?
I know this is an old post, but I bet Liberty Safes woulda seen this post and saw the shit storm they are in now coming!
A lot of misinformation here that lock eventually will go bad and you need a way to get in your safe a lot of people by states that are used change to combo you definitely need one with an override key or a lockout key as it's called you don't get that you were screwed
EMP link misssing
I have a Liberty safe with electronic lock. Should have put more thought into the purchase. It later occurred to me that a thwarted thief would happily bust up the lock pad out of spite. Then what??!! Thought perhaps there might be a flash drive inside the door separate from the lock pad. I submitted this question to Liberty three separate times this past month. ABSOLUTELY NO RESPONSE WHATSOEVER . . . crickets!!! Tells me all I need to know about both Liberty and electronic locks!!!
Can a e-lock be converted to a dial mechanical lock?
Yes, we recommend you have a licensed locksmith switch it out. You can contact our Service team for assistance lining that up.
1-800-247-5625
customerservice@libertysafe.com
@@TheHomeandGunSafeChannel why not just offer dial locks on your safes? The e locks have turned me away from your safes
Why is it that many quality safes with e-locks will give you a lifetime transferable warranty on the safe, but only 5 years on the e-lock? What happens after 5 years if the e-lock goes bad? This is a real problem, as most buy a safe as a long-term investment and the lock is critical to it’s functionality.
All our locks have a 5-year warranty with an option to purchase the 10 years or Lifetime extended warranty.
I was able to purchase a lifetime warranty on my electronic lock from the safe company. Of course, "lifetime" is only as good as long as the company remains in business. A Champion division in my case.
Thanks
12345 that’s the same combination on my luggage 😂
President Scroob!
Who keeps their home defense tool in their big safe???? That's not a good idea....
Oh yeah!
Thank you!!!!!!!
Great channel ! Thanks, so many questions!
Don't trust 'em. Quality mechanical for me, all day long.
A complete article would say, "like an electronic lock, you can change the combination on a mechanical lock, as often as you like."
..Just buy a change key once... and change when you like.
Funny the only reason I’m watching this is because my e lock failed and has me locked out for a week now. I’ll never buy one again
I’m on my 2nd E-lock on my Liberty. I have zero faith in it now
"We recommend Duracell batteries".... Not because they are good, in fact they didn't get the name duraleak for no reason, rather, we are getting paid to say they are good... When in fact duracell sucks. Get an energizer lithium. It will last you ten years.
So...if the battery dies, I cannot open the safe. No way would I put one in my safe. And, what will happen when someone hacks those master codes? It's only a matter of time! They break into "secure" systems all the time. You hear about that almost every day. I can get into my safe in 20 seconds or less. Keep your electronic keypads, I will keep my S&G combination locks that usually have a couple of relocking devices built-in. If it gets destroyed, then it has done it's job.
Don’t see that emp video
Can't believe no one wants to know what happens to the plastic lock during a fire
I changed out my battery with 3 different batteries and my keypad still doesn't work any help?
You have probably resolved the issue by now but I had the same issue this week. Here is how I resolved the problem: remove the battery (disconnect it) then press zero and hold for 10 seconds. Replace the battery and enter your combination. It worked for me the first time.
@@smokysantana I just went with mechanical dial
@@dickeymoore4264 probably the best bet.
@@dickeymoore4264 what was involved in the switch over. Been considering
Not reliable mine just locked me out my Liberty Safe
No it didn't. You locked yourself out of your Liberty Safe
@@CaptainRon1913 Nope the locked failed even with a new battery change, I had to email Securam for a new lock. So the best advice is to always have a replacement lock just in case the original fails. All electronic devices can fail at any moment some just take longer than others.
Mine failed too. I’ve only had one combination, never changed it and now it won’t open. I tried several “copper top” batteries, nothing. Luckily, my safe is empty at the moment so no need to panic, just a pita.
Change battery
Q: will 9v batteries be around in a zombie apocalypse?!!!?
Funny - No reviews cover the fact that the Taylor Instruments Phoenix can open most electronics except the Kama Mas X-## series and the S&G 2740 (Not available for purchase by unimportant people) because of out of band info leakage - variations in current draw, time to beep, etc. depending on digits pressed. Such a glaring omission makes me wonder how these even get Group I certification. I did ask the S&G rep about my Titan D-Drive and he confirmed the Phoenix does indeed to what is says, but as a practical matter, it is not an issue as few ne'er-do-wells have that $3000 gadget.
Cannon safes do not have a master code. You will be told call a lock smith. They will give you a number for the locksmith to call for drill points. GREAT!
Fellas- I typed in my code (liberty revere 72) and it starts beeping (can’t open safe). Pulled battery (bought this a few weeks ago) and put in a brand new Duracell. Doesn’t work.. still beeps.. any suggestions?
My e lock sucks and replacing it with a mechanical!
_dripping_
Simple answer no
Yeah, and apparently theyre much easier to hack than a good mechanical lock. Hard pass.
What happens when your Psycho girlfriend smashes the lock pad pretty good with a hammer.
You will want to contact customer service 1-800-247-5625
The electronic ones are garbage the batteries die out fast and so do the board you're going to hit that button one day and it's not going to do anything
Master code? No Thanks.
No thankyou !
Total BS