I have had several duracell batteries leak and corrode the inside of electronics, most of them were not even dead yet. Energizer lithium all the way for me now
Most all safe keypad manufacturers specifically recommend not using lithium, that’s very interesting you say that. What part of the country are you in?
We have a S&G keypad lock on our Winchester gunsafe. How do you change the combination on that? It was bought in 1999 and has the solenoid in it. Thanks for any help you can give.
Thanks for reaching out. With the door open and bolts sticking out I would try the older 6120 change procedure : Enter 7 4 * Existing Combo # (you should hear 5 beep) then enter 1 * New 6 Digit Code # (you should hear 3 beeps) New 6 Digit Code # (you should hear 3 beeps). Give that a go, read it multiple times until you feel you got it. Enter everything at a smooth pace. Let em know if you have any questions and tell me how it went.
@@baxbennel Typcilly call a locksmith to open it and replace the lock. Best case - have a Bill of Sale, call a dealer/locksmith for that brand and perhaps the manufacture can help.
Lol Ive been getting 40-50 days out of 9 volts no matter the brand of battery ever since I bought my safe years ago, its a Mesa and has/had terrible parasitic drain! The digital keypad just died and needs replaced. Which digital keypad is gonna be compatible with a Mesa mbf2620e (I know its a pos) but I need to replace the keypad ASAP
Liberty and other safe manufactures use SecuRam locks. As a locksmith I’ve seen great results from SecuRam. The ProLogic or the BackLit. Call me if you need one.
I’ve heard many comments about how a digital lock is not as safe as the manual spin dial lock. I am planning on getting a Liberty safe and wonder which lock type you’d recommend and why? Thanks.
Thanks for the video guys. I have the E series version on my gun safe. I replaced the battery for the first time and the wire came disconnected from the back of my key pad. Now my safe is stuck in the open position and it won't accept my code. Any ideas to help me out? Thanks
Richard Pasha sorry to hear that! Any luck holding the broken wire to the solder while trying to use? It seems like it could work and potentially allow for a lightweight solder to repair it. Let me know
@@A1LocksmithofTexas the wire didn't actually break, the connector just came unplugged. I called Sargent and Greenleaf customer service and explained my issue. Apparently the replacement battery that I used was no good. I put a new battery in and it was good as new. SG customer service was awesome!
@@A1LocksmithofTexas the original battery was a duracell that lasted about 2 years since I purchased the safe. I then replaced it with another Duracell that apparently was bad, it had a 2023 date on it. I then replaced that one with a 2024 Duracell and it seems to be working fine now.
what are your thoughts on the d-drive vs pivot bolt? it will be going in a browning medallion m62 safe. please explain the differences between the 2 locks. is one more durable or issue prone over the other?
Hello, thanks for the question. The D-Drive stands for Direct Drive. You enter you 6 digit code followed by # and rotate the outter ring clockwise to manually pull the bolt up. I like this because it solved the old solenoid failure issues. The solenoid would often fail and have to be drilled to open the safe. The new pivot style answers the same question, no solenoid, a small piece "clicks" out of the way allowing the bolt to pivot. Its more or less the same lock, IMO. We have had tremendous success with both locks since 2009, as far as reliability. We have sold hundreds of each. I hope this helps!
Thanks for the reply. So which in your opinion has the less working parts to fail between the d-drive vs pivot lock? Which would you put on your safe and why please?
Have you tried the Energizer Ultimate Lithium 9v battery? Supposed to have twice the capacity of a 9v alkaline and the best part is that they will never leak.
Honestly, I haven't, but I'll keep that in mind. I haven't seen a lot batteries leak within the keypad, either, though. I through out Duracell just as a locksmith with almost 14 years years experience, 9 out of 10 times the lock doesn't work because there isn't a Duracell in it. They certainly don't pay me to say that! Hahaha
I’m nit sure if we’ve spoke before however, I always recommend Duracell copper top batteries from a Lowe’s / Home Depot because they go through batteries quickly and seem to have fresher batteries. Copper top batteries work better with keypad locks than anything else I have ever seen. Feel free to call me Mon-Fri 8a-5p CST 469.791.3498 after you’ve tried that.
I just bought a safe that has a NL keypad. I tried and tried to enter my code to no avail. I finally called customer service and after being on hold for an hour a person told me to enter the code "quickly". Problem solved. These keypads are made for teenager's texting fingers.
I live in lake dallas really close to you i was wondering how much will it cost me to replace my mechanical safe dial on my liberty colonial 23 with an electronic one parts and labor and how long would it take for you to get the job done thank you in advance
Hey, Tomas, thanks for reaching out! We can quote you an appointment and all pricing, no problem. Give me a shout, 972 Three Six Four Zero One Two One ,. Sorry, I don't know all the rules about payments and money talk on here.
Do you mean what if someone tried to pry the keypad off? That’s not very hard to do on most any safe lock. The security of a safe lock is in side the door. The person making an attempted break in would be left with trying to get passed the external relocker , internal relocker inside the lock, slip clutch design in the handle or trying to pry the door with flat steel military bars. Plus Liberty safe offers a lifetime warranty against break in attempts. If a locksmith can’t repair it they’ll replace it.
@@A1LocksmithofTexas So say they get the PIN panel completely off, is there just a hole and a cable to the internal lock? What if they yanked the cable out, how would we get the internal lock to release? Did S&G make it a magnetic connector or what? thanks
@@M_E_T_R_O__9 Nope, at that point a locksmith would would have to drill for the mechanism to open the safe. A highly trained and skilled professional locksmith will be able to assist at that point.
@@A1LocksmithofTexas Ah ok thanks.... i'm thinking a magnetic connector straight to that internal lock would be a good design addition though... all we'd need was a new keypad, snap it on and we'd be good to go! :)
Jimmy Kimber, apologies for the delayed response. The pivot bolt has proven reliable for years now. We've installed hundreds of both and both have proven much more reliable than they were pre-2008.
A-1 Locksmith thanks! pivot bolt looks easier for me to install since no spindle, etc. almost a direct swap from what I can tell which is good for my abilities :)
@@troutbubblefish1 You could have the older style S&G 6120 in which that sequence actually starts with 7 4 * Existing Code # || should hear 5 beeps // 1 * // new 6 digit code # // should hear 3 beeps // new 6 digit code # // should hear 3 beeps. Then test the new 6 digit code. Advance with caution - I clearly have no idea what safe/lock you have. Make sure the door is open and bolts are extended out before beginning. Good luck
@@troutbubblefish1 You’ve replaced the battery with a 9v Duracell copper top from Home Depot? I say that sentence dozens of times a week. 1.) Duracell copper top - the plane old copper & black alkaline battery works the best in keypads. 2.) Home Depot sells more 9V batteries then almost anyone else, so they always seem to have the freshest batteries available.
@@icerook1560 The electronics world is always evolving. This keypad is absolutely safe in the standard of keypad safety. If you were buying new I might even consider looking at SecuRam products. That’s a company we as a locksmith have sold thousands of and they seem to be very reliable. They’re a available on our website www.a-1locksmith.shop. It’s the keypad Liberty safe exclusively uses now.
Yes, sir. A-1 Locksmith - Frisco is a Liberty Safe Platinum dealer right here in Dallas/Ft Worth. It actually reads www.libertygunsafes.com , check us out
Depends on what you mean by better. Doing a wheel lock twice daily to retrieve your weapons and then return them at the end of the shift is annoying. It's much easier done with key presses.
i see your point, when your home at night and your safes in your room, leave the safe open for quick access, and when your gone for the day to work or vacation for a week of course you want to lock it. I Use the motion sensors around the homestead to alert me while I sleep, and keep your car keys with key FOB incase you get that bump in the night, just hit the panic button to alert neighbors to look out their windows and scare the bad guy away..I tell home alone women to do this thing with the key FOB by their side while home alone. I've been looking at the Securam Safe Logic Extreme keypad/dial (dual) ..so far the reports are good. its expensive though perhaps worth it.
I have had several duracell batteries leak and corrode the inside of electronics, most of them were not even dead yet. Energizer lithium all the way for me now
Most all safe keypad manufacturers specifically recommend not using lithium, that’s very interesting you say that. What part of the country are you in?
Iowa. Why do they recommend not using lithium? @@A1LocksmithofTexas
Seems like you could break the keypad off and energize the solenoid with the battery.
Thanks for the feedback. I’ve never seen/heard of anyone successfully gaining entry by that method.
We have a S&G keypad lock on our Winchester gunsafe. How do you change the combination on that? It was bought in 1999 and has the solenoid in it. Thanks for any help you can give.
Thanks for reaching out. With the door open and bolts sticking out I would try the older 6120 change procedure : Enter 7 4 * Existing Combo # (you should hear 5 beep) then enter 1 * New 6 Digit Code # (you should hear 3 beeps) New 6 Digit Code # (you should hear 3 beeps). Give that a go, read it multiple times until you feel you got it. Enter everything at a smooth pace. Let em know if you have any questions and tell me how it went.
What can one do if they have a safe but don’t know combination?
@@baxbennel Typcilly call a locksmith to open it and replace the lock. Best case - have a Bill of Sale, call a dealer/locksmith for that brand and perhaps the manufacture can help.
Good video. Is the 2008 S&G 6120-Q electronic lock the type that had problems? Is the S&G E-lock a more reliable lock than the 6120 series? Thanks.
Lol Ive been getting 40-50 days out of 9 volts no matter the brand of battery ever since I bought my safe years ago, its a Mesa and has/had terrible parasitic drain! The digital keypad just died and needs replaced. Which digital keypad is gonna be compatible with a Mesa mbf2620e (I know its a pos) but I need to replace the keypad ASAP
Liberty and other safe manufactures use SecuRam locks. As a locksmith I’ve seen great results from SecuRam. The ProLogic or the BackLit. Call me if you need one.
Sir I have question please help me because my atm won't open either I have the right key sir what is the possible reason thank you
I’ve heard many comments about how a digital lock is not as safe as the manual spin dial lock. I am planning on getting a Liberty safe and wonder which lock type you’d recommend and why? Thanks.
r. michael wilensky Security wise I’d rate them the same. What did you go with?
Thanks for the video guys. I have the E series version on my gun safe. I replaced the battery for the first time and the wire came disconnected from the back of my key pad. Now my safe is stuck in the open position and it won't accept my code. Any ideas to help me out? Thanks
Richard Pasha sorry to hear that! Any luck holding the broken wire to the solder while trying to use? It seems like it could work and potentially allow for a lightweight solder to repair it. Let me know
@@A1LocksmithofTexas the wire didn't actually break, the connector just came unplugged. I called Sargent and Greenleaf customer service and explained my issue. Apparently the replacement battery that I used was no good. I put a new battery in and it was good as new. SG customer service was awesome!
Richard Pasha By any chance was the 1st or 2nd battery a Duracell?
@@A1LocksmithofTexas the original battery was a duracell that lasted about 2 years since I purchased the safe.
I then replaced it with another Duracell that apparently was bad, it had a 2023 date on it.
I then replaced that one with a 2024 Duracell and it seems to be working fine now.
what are your thoughts on the d-drive vs pivot bolt? it will be going in a browning medallion m62 safe. please explain the differences between the 2 locks. is one more durable or issue prone over the other?
Hello, thanks for the question. The D-Drive stands for Direct Drive. You enter you 6 digit code followed by # and rotate the outter ring clockwise to manually pull the bolt up. I like this because it solved the old solenoid failure issues. The solenoid would often fail and have to be drilled to open the safe. The new pivot style answers the same question, no solenoid, a small piece "clicks" out of the way allowing the bolt to pivot. Its more or less the same lock, IMO. We have had tremendous success with both locks since 2009, as far as reliability. We have sold hundreds of each. I hope this helps!
Thanks for the reply. So which in your opinion has the less working parts to fail between the d-drive vs pivot lock? Which would you put on your safe and why please?
Have you tried the Energizer Ultimate Lithium 9v battery? Supposed to have twice the capacity of a 9v alkaline and the best part is that they will never leak.
Honestly, I haven't, but I'll keep that in mind. I haven't seen a lot batteries leak within the keypad, either, though. I through out Duracell just as a locksmith with almost 14 years years experience, 9 out of 10 times the lock doesn't work because there isn't a Duracell in it. They certainly don't pay me to say that! Hahaha
How can we get in without the combination? We inherited a large safe with that lock. The e lock version.
I changed out batteries 3 times with my s&g keypad and I still can't get it to work any help?
I’m nit sure if we’ve spoke before however, I always recommend Duracell copper top batteries from a Lowe’s / Home Depot because they go through batteries quickly and seem to have fresher batteries. Copper top batteries work better with keypad locks than anything else I have ever seen. Feel free to call me Mon-Fri 8a-5p CST 469.791.3498 after you’ve tried that.
I just bought a safe that has a NL keypad. I tried and tried to enter my code to no avail. I finally called customer service and after being on hold for an hour a person told me to enter the code "quickly". Problem solved. These keypads are made for teenager's texting fingers.
I’ve never heard that, haha, that’s crazy. How is the keypad holding up? Has it shown any signs of missing or “glitching” since?
How do I get battery out I don’t see yellow tab
Robertw sorry, man! Did you find the small notch underneath to use your fingernail with or do you have a different model?
I live in lake dallas really close to you i was wondering how much will it cost me to replace my mechanical safe dial on my liberty colonial 23 with an electronic one parts and labor and how long would it take for you to get the job done thank you in advance
Hey, Tomas, thanks for reaching out! We can quote you an appointment and all pricing, no problem. Give me a shout, 972 Three Six Four Zero One Two One ,. Sorry, I don't know all the rules about payments and money talk on here.
A-1 Locksmith - Frisco thank you my friend I will call you soon
Hello I inputted a 4 digit code and now it’s not unlocking. Is there a way to reset it to default?
Renan Lora
Liberty safes are 6 digit codes but I guess you know that by now.
What if somebody gets a crowbar or something into that fragile looking battery compartment?
Do you mean what if someone tried to pry the keypad off? That’s not very hard to do on most any safe lock. The security of a safe lock is in side the door. The person making an attempted break in would be left with trying to get passed the external relocker , internal relocker inside the lock, slip clutch design in the handle or trying to pry the door with flat steel military bars. Plus Liberty safe offers a lifetime warranty against break in attempts. If a locksmith can’t repair it they’ll replace it.
@@A1LocksmithofTexas So say they get the PIN panel completely off, is there just a hole and a cable to the internal lock? What if they yanked the cable out, how would we get the internal lock to release? Did S&G make it a magnetic connector or what? thanks
@@A1LocksmithofTexas Thats good they offer that warranty im in the UK though not sure they supply them here, will check.
@@M_E_T_R_O__9 Nope, at that point a locksmith would would have to drill for the mechanism to open the safe. A highly trained and skilled professional locksmith will be able to assist at that point.
@@A1LocksmithofTexas Ah ok thanks.... i'm thinking a magnetic connector straight to that internal lock would be a good design addition though... all we'd need was a new keypad, snap it on and we'd be good to go! :)
Im looking at the S/G pivot bolt titan and the D drive titan. Is the pivot bolt any good and reliable?Im replacing a current digital NL lock.
Jimmy Kimber, apologies for the delayed response. The pivot bolt has proven reliable for years now. We've installed hundreds of both and both have proven much more reliable than they were pre-2008.
A-1 Locksmith thanks! pivot bolt looks easier for me to install since no spindle, etc. almost a direct swap from what I can tell which is good for my abilities :)
I’m getting no beeps.
How old is your safe? Your keypad could use a different procedure.
@@A1LocksmithofTexas probably 20 years old
It’s a Browning platinum
@@troutbubblefish1 You could have the older style S&G 6120 in which that sequence actually starts with 7 4 * Existing Code # || should hear 5 beeps // 1 * // new 6 digit code # // should hear 3 beeps // new 6 digit code # // should hear 3 beeps. Then test the new 6 digit code. Advance with caution - I clearly have no idea what safe/lock you have.
Make sure the door is open and bolts are extended out before beginning. Good luck
@@troutbubblefish1 You’ve replaced the battery with a 9v Duracell copper top from Home Depot? I say that sentence dozens of times a week. 1.) Duracell copper top - the plane old copper & black alkaline battery works the best in keypads. 2.) Home Depot sells more 9V batteries then almost anyone else, so they always seem to have the freshest batteries available.
What the hell is star mode
Not sure I know what you mean, but how can I help?
@@icerook1560 The electronics world is always evolving. This keypad is absolutely safe in the standard of keypad safety. If you were buying new I might even consider looking at SecuRam products. That’s a company we as a locksmith have sold thousands of and they seem to be very reliable. They’re a available on our website www.a-1locksmith.shop. It’s the keypad Liberty safe exclusively uses now.
Is he wearing a Liberty tee shirt?
Yes, sir. A-1 Locksmith - Frisco is a Liberty Safe Platinum dealer right here in Dallas/Ft Worth. It actually reads www.libertygunsafes.com , check us out
i think mechanical locks are better for safes
Depends on what you mean by better. Doing a wheel lock twice daily to retrieve your weapons and then return them at the end of the shift is annoying. It's much easier done with key presses.
i see your point, when your home at night and your safes in your room, leave the safe open for quick access, and when your gone for the day to work or vacation for a week of course you want to lock it. I Use the motion sensors around the homestead to alert me while I sleep, and keep your car keys with key FOB incase you get that bump in the night, just hit the panic button to alert neighbors to look out their windows and scare the bad guy away..I tell home alone women to do this thing with the key FOB by their side while home alone. I've been looking at the Securam Safe Logic Extreme keypad/dial (dual) ..so far the reports are good. its expensive though perhaps worth it.