greetings Mark, great videos, having started airbrushing in 1975 the real only game in town was Paasche airbrushes and One Shot Enamel, for the very few airbrush painters out there at the time (I was in LA) no one shared anything with anybody, nothing, it was all trail and error, (this was way before Createx and most everything out there today, I probably shot everything you could shoot through an airbrush while painting on t-shirts to custom vans, low riders, murals, etc.) so I really enjoy your sharing and teaching your excellent talent pretty much for free, that's a real blessing in today's economy, one of the reasons I started to support in a small way you and your channel, at 76 I still paint in my studio and enjoy watching all of the new techinques that have evolved since I began airbrushing, keep up the great work, reguarding your lesson today I have most of the airbrushes you shared about along with my 7 paasches I began painting with 50 years ago, which all still work great, p.s. my first VL3 cost me $5.00 at a swap meet, but like you I do love the Iwata's which I have use since the 90's, thanks again, I do admire you and your work, the folks out in the world of TH-cam are really getting an amazing education in the airbrush field from you and some of the many talented artist who freely share, great stuff!! t.
Thomas thank you so so much for your generous support. It's so kind of you and I greatly appreciate it. I used tons of one shot too! Works well but will clear out the house. I still love it for lettering (with a traditional brush) though. I appreciate the kinds words. It's a pleasure to get to know people like you on here and I really enjoy doing it. 76 today is still a young man!! Plenty of great paintings ahead of you my friend. I absolutly need to get more paasches on this channel. The talon I have is fantastic and I'll need to pick up a vl-3. Bet it will cost me more than $5!! Thanks again Thomas.
@@theartworkshop I've found the The Paasche Millennium with a picker cap and rounded half ball trigger is the ants pants. I bought out the supplier of Frisk CS 10 Board here in Oz when they shut down ... still glad I did as I still have about one box and a couple sheets left... Drew called me and told me about "His" new board ... pricey in Australian Dollars. Side note. I took a trip to Michigan before COVID hit and stopped at "MACK BRUSH" company and way overspent ... worth the trip! (My partner was one of my students from my adult class in 1993, as she was a "Ticket Writer") so she also helped me spend too much...LOL
I still have a Paasche Talon, & a Paasche Raptor that I get out still sometimes. Sure they're not quite like my H&S & Hansa airbrushes but they aren't bad at all. I paint cars, and custom benchrifle stocks which I do custom graphics as well. Airbrushing and paint has came a long way even over just the past 20 years let alone 50yrs. Having water based createx that you cant put right over solvent based that you put two coats of solvent based base clear over first that you can then top clear with automotive urethane clear coat when your finished has made things so nice now days
Your channel is amazing, thanks for all the explanations and tutorials. I have a question - is there any major difference between the Eclipse HP-CS and the HP-BS ? I need the smaller cup size, but everyone is always only talking about the CS, so I was wondering. Thanks in advance!
Thank you so much! I really appreciate that. Your work is fantastic. The HP-BS is basically the same airbrush as the HP-CS, but with a smaller cup. The HP-BS is also a little bit shorter. They both have the same nozzle, head system, trigger, etc and spray exactly the same. Can't go wrong with either of them. hope this helps!
@@theartworkshop I had a hunch that would be the case, but I wanted to make sure before I made the investment. So this helps a lot, thanks for taking the time to reply!
I stumbled on this video just a couple of days after ordering an Iwata Eclipse HP-CS. Happy it's even on your list, let alone at the top. I paint models - trains, planes, armour etc. I've been getting good results with the Paasche Talon. Looking forward to learning the Eclipse.
My top 3-- Olympos MP200-C Micron (I have two), Olympos MP200-B Micron, Olympos SP-B...just received a 2024 H & S Evo CRPlus solo yesterday that I just love using already--trigger is super smooth w/ instant response. Retired all my Iwatas (including a CM-C Micron) after I got my first Olympos Micron. Have been tempted to get an HP-100B or C, but now seriously thinking about getting a 2024 H & S Infinity when they get released.
@sped17373 I love the H&S Infinity, and Chameleon, new Ultra, and the Hansa 581. They are my favorites I own. Sold my Iwata's once I tried ny first H&S
I think you did a very good review, specifically stating what you are looking for in your use and style. Currently, I spray Fiber Reactive Dyes on my turned wooden bowls, but am looking to expand my finished products to other media, especially on my bowls. Thank you for the review.
I did the upgrade to my Ultra with the Evo 24 trigger and spring. I use a .2 nozzle, fineline head with the Giraldez needle caps. Without the cup its just the GOAT for detail (for me). There is no difference in performance to an Infinity, but the cup is entirely removable and it has no annoying cut out or a limiter. Insane brush
Man, I would love to see a video from you on miniature painting, I think everyone (possibly yourself included) could learn a lot from that. I’d like to see using the brands of paints that are marketed towards mini painting to see your pros and cons, how to thin them properly, and most importantly would be to see how painting onto ‘shapes’ where that third dimension (curves and concaves) affect painting because of the way air moves around those shapes.
@@theartworkshop it would be amazing, I think you realise you're starting to get a lot of interest from mini painters and that's only going to continue.
Agree with number 1 - have used it the most. Have the sotar, ps270, ps771and HPCS. Use them all except the sotar - have two and both spray grainy compared to japanese brands. Not sure why.
I have the Sotar and know what you mean. I have fixed this by removing the needle and gently pulling the tip of the needle across very fine sandpaper (800 or more grit) a few times. Doing this puts a nice smooth tip back on the needle..
Great breakdown. As requested, my top five: 5. Thayer and Chandler Model A 4. Aerograph Super 63A 3. H&S Infinity CR. 2. Iwata HP-AH 1. Paasche Turbo AB
They come up for sale every so often. I have one from 1931 and one of the last from '80. Paasche still has parts for them. I bought my first brush in '82 at the original Pearl Paint on Canal St. I was a pink kid with a pocketful of cash and wanted the best brush they had. The guy refused to even show me the Turbo, said it was for pros only. I settled on an Iwata HP-BC2 that I still use (all original parts too). A few years back I grabbed one and loved it, then got the '31 and was amazed how smooth it is. I don't think I paid more than $50 for either one. Some some reason I've been into getting vintage brushes lately, although I'm probably grabbing a Creos 771 now after your video. I don't do enough illustration to warrant spending five bills on a Micron and I have 3 Iwata (TH, BC2 and AH). @@theartworkshop
Just want to mention two things: I grabbed a Creos 771 on your recommendation (direct from Japan for $148) and yes, its fantastic. Many thanks for pointing this one out. Second, based on your requirements of trigger response, I was using my 70 year old T&C Model A last night (I got it for $23 last month on eBay) and while it doesn't have the bells and whistles of a modern brush, one thing I think you'd love is it has an adjustable mechanical stop in front of the trigger. You can finely tune the response of fluid flow. Playing around I was able to set it to produce the tiniest, consistent dots I've ever airbrushed just by depressing the trigger. And there was no spitting or splatter from buildup on the tip. Just dots, on target for days. I thought it was an interesting design. Between that and the air cap that works like a spatter cap/MAC valve, this $23 find is as accurate and adjustable as my Paasche Turbo AB. After a few minutes polishing the needle, it gets fine lines to rival both the .15mm Infinity CR plus and the .18mm Creos 771. Another perk is its so small it feels like you're holding an old pencil nub. I've bought 3 in the past year, none more than $25 with the case. Keep an eye out for a treat. Thayer and Chandler Model A (they became Badger and current Model 100 parts are the same as the Model A)
oh man $148 is such a deal!! I've ordered a few Iwatas from distributors in Japan before and even with shipping and taxes it's still way cheaper. That is awesome about the Thayer & Chandler. I've got to start getting into the vintage models because I hear so many amazing things. Paasche Turbo is one I'm 100% getting someday. Isn't just incredible to see how advanced some of these 100 year old tools are?! I have a few SK sockets and ratchets from the 30's and they are amazing. I will have to get the model A as well because you've got me interested now! Thanks so much for this.
@theartworkshop A brand about the same quality sockets and wrenches as SK is Powerbuilt, made in Taiwan. It's often carried at OReilly auto parts stores. It's very high quality steel at a decent price.
I paint O scale model trains, which are rather on the large size. Large area coverage, followed by detail spray doing weathering and shading puts a lot pressure on a brush to do a range of duty. My primary has become the Iwata HP-BCS, a siphon bottle system that allows larger volume needed when painting large area. It has been customized with an adjustable stop tailpiece from the Micron line. I find it amazing in its ability to both do large area coverage, and small detail. I did just buy the new Gaahleri Swallowtail with fan tip which may well become my new large area standard. This opens the door to convert the HP-BCS to .35 nozzle as yours is so equipped, and make it more adept at the detail end. I have been tempted to buy a Micron .18 for years, just because it is such a wonderful fine detail tool, but for the kind of work I do, the truth is, its not necessary. I can only agree with your assessment.. Iwata.. In the order you show, for the reasons you give👍.
I’ve got a bottle fed Iwata Eclipse that I got ages ago. Got it for $30 because an art store was closing. I got it for painting surf boards and found that that thing is my absolute work horse. I was hard pressed to find a job it isn’t good at. Love that thing. I’ve probably had it 20 years now and I bought a bunch of replacement parts when I got it. With the exception of one piece that I dropped down the sink, so I had to replace it, every single original part is going strong and all my replacement parts are still in the packaging. It’s so hard to find items that are made so well the only issues you ever have with them are pilot errors.
Hey Mark, thank you very much for this video. It is very detailed and someone like me that is just starting out, really benefits from a video like this.
My number 1 is also the Iwata Eclipse. But then, it's the only one I own, so... I have always believed in buying the best tool there is and the Eclipse was rated as the best by the places I researched. Thank you for this video. As I watched it I was astounded to see some of your work! Honestly, I had absolutely no idea that kind of thing could be done with an airbrush. I'm one of those who do model railroad custom painting but never, in a million years, could I do something like I just saw in this video! I have subscribed just to watch something as wonderful as this just for the pure pleasure of seeing it,
My favorite airbrush for modeling railroad is my Badger 155 Anthem I use for acrylic paints. For lacquer and enamel paints I use my Harbor Freight Chinese .3mm airbrush. Harbor Freight 1/5 HP compressor and I have an 8 gallon compressor if the need arises. I figured that the lacquer & enamel paints need to be atomized more than acrylic so .5mm for acrylics and .3mm for lacquer/enamel. However, I did use the Badger to repaint my 1925 Coleman stove. I'm no artist and don't really use it like you do. Great artist with an airbrush. Your copies look just like the original. I may have to give it a try. Cheers from eastern TN
I have for almost 35 years a Thayer & Chandler A10 for painting pictures and scale models, but the last week got damaged for the first time, the the air valve spring broke. So I finally decided to leave in peace my old airbrush and get a new one. My top three are Iwata Eclipse HP-CS, Harder & Steenbeck - ULTRA and just for having another blast of luck for the next 35 years a Thayer & Chandler - Omni Matrix. Thank you for this top ten, it was a good guide to pick up an airbrush. 👌👌👌
Ranking my own airbrushes: Grex Titanium 110220 - it has a pistol grip and trigger, so I can use it when my hands (arthritis) are sizing up. Iwata Eclipse - easy to learn and use, simple to maintain. H&S Evolution 2022 - everything is so stable and perfect H&S Evolution (2024) - perfection But you’ve convinced me to buy a badger sotar
excellent ratings! I agree that new evo24 is perfection. I love that model. I actually just ordered another sotar 20/20 to see if they changed anything since my last one. I bet you'll love the sotar too. It's one of my favorites.
I had to stop and subscribe. Take that as a compliment. I'm a modeler, both in balsa wood airplanes and (trying to get back into) plastic models. When I was a kid I had a bottom of the line Badger airbrush which I ran off air from a spare car tire. It didn't take long for the air to run out and I'd have to roll it back to the gas station and pump it up again. I've never been good at airbrushing, but I've been moving up from Harbor Freight, to Paasche, to cheap Chinese knock offs. And I've been working on improving technique, which must be working because an adhesives company wanted to use a picture of one of my models for advertising. So I think I'm finally ready for the Iwata Neo or the Harder and Steenbeck Ultra. And I have the perfect spare tire picked out!
My number one from the ones I own if I had to start all over would be the iwata kustom hp-ch! Can do basically everything. Thanks for sharing. Great choices!
The best airbrush is the one that you feel comfortable and at ease with like an extension of your hand. One that you do not need to think about while using. It may be plain or cheap and expensive and fancy. Only the user can determine that. Thanks for your videos... most informative.
Such awesome and helpful information. Just starting out with airbrushing. Ive used many different painting methods but never had enough knowledge. Thank you, thank you for all the tips for before I even make a picture!
You are right... each airbrush may be better for certain work ... I would always tell my students, consider price, cost of parts, availability of parts and the type of wok you do... Paasche uses mostly brass for parts and brass is cheaper so the price of parts reflect that. EFBE has harden fluid nozzles and needles and are milled to match. Mine is an old one and is 0.15 mm. Sadly they stopped production of a AB Turbo. The Iwata Micron, built on licence from Olympus. As you said to each their own. The SP-35 Sparmax is inexpensive and handles Titanium White Acrylics with no issues.The The Thayer & Chandler Model A came out at the turn of the century (1900). Paasche AB Turbo 1905 ... Great detail...
Thank you for your channel Mark, Really enjoyed this overview of your top ten, as I do all of your videos. I use many different makes of brushes and agree totally with your top choice, I still remember that feel and response first time using the Eclipse and saying to myself, Ah this is why everyone raves on about them. It will remain my go to brush when finishing up various artworks.
Thanks so much! that eclipse is a hard airbrush to beat- I feel very much the same as you. seems like everyone loves it as well. Best to you in your paintings!
Very good review, I totally agree with the comments for all the airbrushes that I own or that I could get my hands on to review (I never tried the Iwata Microns, neither the new H&S Ultra 2024, and never used extensively a Badger Sotar). Personally for the way my setup is, the Iwata Revolution or the Eclipse (I've tried them and love them, but don't own them) would not be so great because they do'nt have a mac valve, and an air control valve is usefull for me as my compressor is in another room. I don't like some aftermarket air valve under the airbrush as I don't find them confortable, so I like the H&S concept of the fPc valve (I have bought one for each of my 3 H&S airbrushes). I too rank the Evolution and particulary the Infinity quite low because of the bad trigger design. And my Creos 289, that I bought without thinking much about it after seeing one of your videos was truely a great surprise... I love it, and it is my go to airbrush now.
I was about to give up on the Infinity, but the fix over at Dredd FX channel cost a couple bucks and takes minutes to implement. It makes the trigger response dead on point.
Another great video, I always enjoy watching your reviews and hearing your opinions. For my part I have a few Creos brushes on the rack and love them all. Among them I have a PS-771 and, I also wished for an alternate, smaller paint cup option. I discovered that many of the 771 parts are a drop-fit on some of the Chinese Micron look-alikes. I have converted a few of these and they are my go-to brushes for a lot of small shot detail work. As a modeler I use them for a lot of weathering effects including spraying artist oils and speckling. I have a few Brushes with PS-770/771 heads based on Fengda BD-208’s (aka Master G48 and PointZero PZ-408). These feature a small 2cc cup but are otherwise identical to the more common 9cc models. The conversions involved replacing the head assembly, needle, and air valve with Creos parts.
First time watching your channel. Had to subscribe. Going to start building models again and need a air brush. Really like the H&S 2024 Ultra but then you showed me the Evolution. I do like your review on the ultra that it can be Frankensteined. If you had to pick for me as i would be doing detail work and some large areas of a model car, what would be your choice. Thanks again for your Awesome reviews
the ranking of my airbrushes: 1. Iwata HP BH (makes me feel like a pro, I do not like the screw in tiny nozzle. I have to be sure to filter the paint so I get no dry specks. It doesn't come with a cup cap which I like to prevent paint drying) 2. H&S Infinity CR Plus (the best airbrush for just sheer overall joy of use and ease of upkeep... it just doesn't paint as good as the Iwata. Inconsistent as you mentioned) 3. Creos 289 (works well, but has the tiny nozzle like the Iwata making it a hassle) 4. Badger Patriot (small cup arrow version) I use this with a large needle for spraying primer so it actually get's used alot but it sucks down alot of paint 5. Badger Krome (This was a good airbrush when I got it but after a while it started letting paint back flow down the needle behind the cup and that caused no end to my troubles)
I just like to thank you for your amazing and inspiring videos. I really was in doubt on which airbrush to get. After watching your videos I made my mind to get the Iwata Eclipse.
Bought the Creos PS-771 before watching this comparison, but didn't use until after watching. Looks like I bought the right airbrush. I really like this airbrush, and do find it effective on detail painting. I am using it to put Chroma Craft wood dye on a maple hollow form, and it is working very well.
I use them for miniature painting and even when I have the 3 needles for the talon I would like to get a more precise airbrush for the tinniest details.
thanks so much! The talon is a great airbrush. I really enjoy painting with it. You might like a detail airbrush for miniatures. The creos ps771 is awesome and so is the new Harder and Steenbeck Ultra with the .28. A new infinity is coming out soon, but I haven't tried it out yet. Hope this helps!
Hey bud, thank you for such a rad video. I’m a novice mini painter interested in getting a better airbrush. I picked up the Youfu one that come with a mini compressor and it’s ok for base coating, but I’d like to up my game a bit. My local store sells the eclipse, would you recommend that for someone in my position, or would the Ultra be a better choice? Also, I’d love to see a video with you trying some of the miniature acrylics paints; vallejo, citadel, etc. thank you much and keep it up!
So happy to see my brand new Revolution on the list! I use it strictly for 1/8 scale RC car/truck lexan bodies, so I’m super happy with the purchase. Thanks for sharing! 🤙
Definitely plus one on the mini painting suggestion, you'll get a lot of traction from those of us in the mini community. You're artwork is beautiful and i know i would love to see what you could do on a 3 dimensional object.
I appreciate it- thanks so much! I'm a big fan of the mini community. i've met so many miniature and scale modelers since starting this channel and they are awesome! a great community of people.
Where would the new 2024 evolution place in this list? I'm torn about getting the eclipse or evolution 2in1 for my first brush and it's very difficult to pick.
oh man that's a hard one- I love them both to be honest. The new evo is really really good, but I personally like the eclipse more. It's my favorite airbrush ever so my answer is probably biased. Both are awesome airbrushes though. Best of luck to you!
I’m happy to see the two brushes I own on this list and couldn’t agree more. I was surprised to see the Eclipse in front given all the grail brushes you have but we like what we like. Thanks Mark
I'm not surprised at all the Eclipse HP-CS came out on top against all the competition. The Eclipse HP-CS just embarrasses anything you compare it to. #MYIWATA
hey mark, what are your thoughts on the green coluor plastic airbrush handle that you can buy for more ergonomic grip , i putted that on sotar and hp b+ , and i think i does help with fatigue.. have u tried them?
that sounds like a great addition. I haven't used them because I'm so used to the standard feel, but anything that makes it more comfortable and helps with fatigue is a good thing in my book!
Love my Iwata revolution, but have problem when using start is awesome but after like 50% of paint it starts to irregular with spraying and even do a spider web when at first was ideal. I’m using 5 drops of paint 1:1 with thinner. Do you have any recommendations to deal with it?
My List: H&S Silverline (owned) becasuse it can be taken apart with no wear and tear (the threaded nozzles, I imagine, are better left alone as much as possible) so I can spray anything and just take apart and clean easily. I don't need the precise trigger response (paint comes out at same trigger position everytime) that you get with Iwata or Creos when I am just painting even surfaces. GSI Creos ProconBoy PS-290 (owned) It is a beast for big objects or for clear or gloss coats. The amount of over spray is reduced when spraying wide, as opposed to doing the same with a normal geometry needle design. PS-270 (need to buy) I want one AB that has the precise trigger response, for painting precise lines, like grime streaks on a model. I think this is the best bang for buck out there. Basically and TL;DR one AB for general priming and base coating that can be cleaned easily without risk of damaging threads. One AB for wet coating and painting larger areas with minimal overspray (1) One AB for precise work, they all seem to have the small threaded nozzles, so I would use it only for this usecase, as I imagine it would be difficult to remove the Viton o-ring on the nozzle to clean it after spraying lacquers. (1) When you try to cover larger areas with normal geometry needles (long tapered) there will be 60-90% overspray area on the outsdide diameter. With the PS290 the needle taper is only a few millimeters (as opposed to 10-20mm) so you can get a cone of paint with only the outside 10-20mm being overspray. I define overspray here as the speckled part of the paint cone
Great review and information. Two airbrushes to consider are the Richpen Phoenix Mojo by Mike Learn and the Olympos HP100SB. Both are close competitors to the Micron. The Richpen Mojo is a bit pricey, but worth it IMO. The Olympos HP100sb is about $100 and close in performance to the Micron. Thanks for all your videos.
Hi Mark, I was just doing research for buying an airbrush and stumbled across your video. I just got started airbrushing scale models a few months back, so started off with a cheapo Chinese brush to just learn the basics. I’m now ready to move up to a better model and am torn between the H&S Ultra 2024 and the Iwata Revolution HP-CR3, so was pretty happy to see both of these in your top ten. I hear that the Ultra 2024 is aimed at the beginner, so would this be a better choice for me over the Revolution? Keep up the great videos.
oh man those are 2 really great airbrushes in my opinion. I'd be happy with either one. For models and starting out, I think the ultra 24 might be a better choice because those features can be very helpful. For what I do, I prefer the revolution. Again, you can't go wrong with either!
Would you recommend a Iwata Eclipse HP-CS or the H&S Ultra 2024 for Warhammer mini painting? I'm a first time airbrush buyer but you really caught my attention when you said buy the Iwata once for life. If its good for Warhammer 40k painting I am sold!
I bought 2 airbrushes while watching this video and got to the end and found that the #1 is the airbrush I owned all along lol! But excited to get my H&S Ultra and Iwata revolution in the mail now too. awesome video man! Thank you!!
Beautiful collection! I do agreed with everything you said about the Iwata microns as well as the Creos 771, that one is a magnificent airbrush for a super cheap price, (compared with the microns). I do not own any H&S or Badger airbrushes so I can't comment on those. But I think any Japanese airbrush will perform really well do to their quality control! Great helpful review! Thanks!!!!
Thanks for the video! Which would you recommend between the HP-CS and the H&S Ultra? I'm planning to use it for painting helmets and various art projects, using Createx Wicked and other automotive paints.
I paint mainly miniatures, but I am also interested to eventually paint all types of things. I really like the trigger lock mechanism for beginners, availability of parts, and having the option to change nozzle sizes. These are selling points for the Ultra 2024. The Iwata, from what i've read and info gathered, is just one of the best airbrushes ever. Reliable, smooth, comfortable, universal usage, tried and true. I can get an Iwata for $150, and the Ultra is $110. What would you suggest to get? Or your thoughts?
Both are awesome airbrushes. The ultra is very good to learn the basics and some trigger control but I personally like the Iwata eclipse more. It's an airbrush you'll never need to upgrade from. Can't go wrong with either though!
Great list out of my collection it's ps289, Iwata custom micron (very close to each other) and Passche Talon using the. 38 needle/nozzle the trigger is incredibly smooth and very responsive that's my top 3, I also have a Passche VL which is smooth and responsive for a cheaper brush and I have a badger patriot 105 which could easily slot in ahead of the VL and there's no need to mention my neoeco and masters garbage.
As a mini painter I'm sure mine will differ, but I like watching what artists are doing with them 1 - H&S infinity -AG edition (trigger response is better on this version) 2 - Gahleeri Swallowtail - Barbatos Rex edition 3 - Badger - Sotar 20/20 4 - Iwata - Eclipse
Absolutely love your videos, they are so informative. I have about 2 years of experience with airbrushes and do mainly car bodies and some aircraft. In your opinion is it OK to use acrylics and enamels and lacquers with the same airbrush or have multiple brushes for each type of paint? Which of your top 10 would you recommend for me to use for my applications? Three recommendations if you will. Also, easy cleaning is a big priority for me. Thanks
thanks so much! As long as you do a good job at cleaning out the paint and drying out the solvents you'll be fine. You just need to be careful, because water mixing with solvent based lacquers or those mixing with water based paint will make a mess. My old eclipse has had every type of paint sprayed through it imaginable. Hope this helps!
What you can advice for miniatures painting with acrylic? Iwata HC or HP-B? Because priming with 0.2 little bit harder than 0.35, but detail work is very good, right? Eclipse with 0.35 is it good for detail work compared with HP-B?
Thanks for this information. I am buying a pre-owned Iwata HP B plus. After your info on the nozzle, I'm concerned & I have some more questions about it. Would you mind if I ask you? Thank you! Great paintings!!
@@theartworkshop Thanks so much! I received the pre-owned HP B plus & am trying to assess it right now. It does spray & put out paint. Doesn't seem as small a pattern as I had anticipated or the paint coming out as quickly, but I haven't done much yet. The handle was stuck but I got it. But, the needle isn't coming out and the guard at the tip is stuck to the head. The head is not stuck but I don't know about just taking it off!! It looks like someone may have used something on it & scratched it up. I know about breaking down airbrushes & getting them going, but this is an IWATA! (My first one, I've wanted one forever!!!) And, after finding out from your video about the head situation and how it needs a special tool & everything I've been worried about what to do in handling it & probably needing to replace some parts and so, I wanted to ask you for your advice with it. Do I need to get one of those tools? It did not come with one. Thank you very much. I really appreciate it!
@@CreativeHeart-jk1xr Congrats on your first Iwata! They are fantastic and that HP B should serve you well. It sounds like you are looking to replace the nozzle and the nozzle cap. Before you swap anything out, I would work with the airbrush for a few days or weeks to see if you can get comfortable using it. Generally when one of those parts is broken, you'll see bubbles in the cup and the airbrush will spray very little paint, if any at all. It sounds like the airbrush is spraying for you. which is a good sign. The only thing I usually replace on a used airbrush is the needle. See if you can get your airbrush to spray fine lines, dots, gradients (all that fun stuff). If you find out the nozzle is in fact damaged, Iwata sells a nozzle wrench that you can use to remove it and replace with a new one. The airbrush comes with a small spanner wrench to unscrew it as well, but maybe the original owner misplaced it. I'm sure you'll get it working. Hope this helps and best of luck to you!
Just to add my two cents. I mostly spray miniatures with acrylics so paints are on the thicker side. I own an Iwata HP C+, an Iwata CR, a Sotar and a Badger patriot xtreme 0,3 which is the equivalent of Iwata Eclipse in my opinion. Tear drop nozzle design helps a ton, very easy to break down and clean and very precise. If you ever get the chance try one out I think you will happily surprised. Great informant video btw explain the purpose and usage of airbrushes and the reasons behind the ranking. Thank you.
Love your video. Very well put together. I do own few airbrushes including the Iwata Eclipse. I’m in the process of ordering the 2024 HS Ultra or Evolution 2in1. Haven’t made up my mind on which one yet. Maybe both lol.
Well, I just bought the Gaahleri Airbrush Kit, Airbrush Gun Dual Action Gravity Feed Set, 0.38 & 0.5mm Needles, and the Iwata Eclipse Takumi Side Feed Dual Action Airbrush, ECL350T. I also have the Iwata HP BC1 plus, and cheaper Master Airbrush, can't remember the model number. I'm doing models and custom guitar bodies. Probably start doing some portraits and landscapes too. I think I'd particularly like painting animals.
Excellent review channel, succinct and relatable. GOLD standard for me, a model airplane builder. So, I have a Badger 105, three tips, and with the main goal of spraying 1/72 Luftwaffe "Wellenmuster" (continuous squiggly lines) and Italian mottled camo on about twenty kits before I croak, but the 0.3 Patriot is not fine enough. The Patriot is east to clean, and I tend to be brand-loyal, so the SOTAR is appealing, but fussy to clean? Not necessarily a deal breaker, but somewhat important. But so many choices here! Main goal is a that tight line with minimum over-spray while doing the above camo patterns. Any advice from you Luftwaffe lovers?
I AGREE THE IWATA ECLPSE IS ALL AROUND AIRBRUSH WHAT YOU FORGOT TO SAY IS THAT THE ECLIPSE IS A WAYHORSE I MEAN IT TAKES A BEATING AND KEEPS ON AND ON !!! GREAT VIDEO
I have picked up the badger extreme patriot and Sotar 2020. The instructions say 30psi. For scale modeling that is a bit high in my experience. What are the optimal range psi in your estimation and experience? Thanks in advance. Love the videos by the way.
2 awesome airbrushes! Yes, 30psi is a great place to start and usually optimal for smooth atomization. If you use a high quality airbrush paint and reduce it you can drop it down to 25-20 and still get excellent performance. I usually spray at around 20 psi for createx illustration colors with 10-20% reduction. For over reduced I'll spray at around 12-15psi, but that is only for very specific applications.
Nice video! Thanks for producing such high quality review. Looking forward to see you to review Tamiya 74537 / 74514 airbrush, both are manufactured by Rich Pen Japan
Hi, I'm a miniature painter. I have the Infinity CR-Plus and the Evolution, both by H&S, they are fine but, for painting details, I prefer my Holbein Y-2. I'm thinking in buying an Iwata Micron, but I have some doubts about if the inversion would be worthy.
Started with a neo kit(iwata) Not a fan Got a 15$ airbrush of the internet, it got me going. Then i got a harbor freight kit. It worked. After being able to fine detail with the cheap stuff Reaper vex(swear it's a badger airbrush) Now my go to. Bought a gaahleri GHAD-39 for 5mm needle but havent used it yet Will most likely buy a H&S ultra 2024, cause it seems awesome. YOU ARE AWESOME!!!!!!!!!! Thanks for the amazing videos
Thanks! those cheap $15 are an excellent place to start and see if you like it. The gaahleri 39 is a huge upgrade from those, and a great airbrush. I really like it. And yeah the ultra 24 is pretty incredible
I got 2...Badger 105 Patriot, Badger Sotar 2020, both of them with all 3 needle/nozzles that go with each, the Patriot is great for basecoats/priming, everything else is sotar territory...I would love to get my hands on an infinity or an eclipse, but my Badgers work, and I'm terrified of falling in love with another thousand dollars worth of tools...I have more models to buy first, when I get a few years worth of plastic in my pile of potential I'll think about getting an Iwata or Harder & Steenbeck
@theartworkshop Not gonna lie man, I'm a warhammer guy through and through, but those landscape paintings you do speak to an old soldier, and acknowledging that I will never achieve what you put forth, the lure is too strong, I intend on a deep dive of your channel over Thanksgiving to find a starting point, with the eventual goal to paint a number of places that are significant to me, anywhere you'd recommend I start? Createx illustration colors are already on my list lol, any advice for a hobbyist that you think will make a 1-2 hour a day effort most rewarding, knowing that I will always be predisposed to painting my armies?
awesome to hear! Most of it is about observation which I talk about a lot. Paying attention the values and colors that you see in what you're working from (photo, life, etc.) and then rendering that on your canvas. Its fun and you'll always learn something new. I wish you all the best. @@johnhildenbrand2642
I’m stuck between the Ultra 2024 and Revolution for painting lures. I’ve been using a cheap Amazon brush for two years and looking to move up. Is it just a matter of finding the best deal between the two?
Oh man that's tough. Both are awesome. A cool thing about the ulltra 24 is that you can upgrade to smaller needle, nozzle, and air cap sizes if you want to turn the airbrush into a detail version. You can get awesome detail with the stock nozzle though.
@@theartworkshopI like to paint a lot of metallic paints so the larger nozzle is a benefit but my biggest complaint is trigger control. Sometimes it works beautifully and others you just keep pulling back waiting for paint to make its way out. I think I’ll follow my gut and go for the ultra.
@@LavalleeLures I know what you mean because some metallics can be a real pain. I just love the ultra 24. It really is such a cool airbrush with amazing control. I bet you'll love it as well.
Just wanted to share with you how’s much I liked your review. Also, that your set work is what defines jealous ❤. Very talented abs I love realism art. Good on you
Have you tried the Reaper VEX? It's a Badger airbrush, even though it's branded by Reaper Miniatures. I had the Patriot before I got it and haven't used the Patriot since. You obviously know your stuff so I'd be interested in your opinion of it if you'd care to try it. Thanks for the awesome informative videos.
I have owned 4 of the top 10. Now own 2, Iwata Revolution and HP-B. Agree with your judgement putting the HS Evoution ahead of the Infinity. I two thought it was better, have sold them both. What I hated about the Infinity is that dam needle set button at the back of the airbrush. Agree on cup size too, I prefer a small cup over medium or large any day. Must get an Elipse and custom Mircon one day. Have a Gaahleri Swallowtail on the way.
Perfecto combo setup these- The revolution for general use airbrushing and the Hp-b for detail. You're set! The eclipse sprays nearly identical to both of those so one that wouldn't add much. The Gaahleri Swallowtail looks amazing- nice option for a handle trigger airbrush.
i am looking for an airbrush to paint 3d printed helmets and cosplay parts. i would like one that i can use it for fine details but also that has a good coverage since these parts are much bigger than miniatures scale models. i was thinking but i would like to hear your opinion about the iwata eclipse takumi because i don't konw if the hp-cs cup has enough capacity to do a priming or base coat or full paint in one color without having to refill during the process. with takumi i can get a bigger bottle and dont refill. what is your opinion? thanks
It really depends how much you plan to paint. What I like to do is mix my colors separately and store them in small bottles. This way they are premixed so when my airbrush runs out, I just fill it back up with the same color.
@@theartworkshop and yes this is what I plan to do as well to pre mix them in bottles but I just don’t want to run out of the 5 7 ml of paint during the coating and have to refill it. Since I mainly make helmets I would like to know if that would be enough for a full coat without the need of refill
Hi Mark, Need a little further infor and recommendation. I am a HO Scale 1/87th scale modeler. I detail freight cars and engines for clients and I am looking to get the best detail airbrush that can do small rust spots and the like. I have watched your video here and have some ideas what might work better for me than other but with the detail option that I am really wanting I would love to know what you would go with. Have no issues buying a $200 to $300 airbrush if that is what you recommend, But I do not think I need to go to the $500-600 level to get what I need. I would Love to hear back from you regarding what you recommend. Thank you for your time and ALL of your efforts with your videos, You are an incredible artist that is without question. Rob Miller
Thanks so much Rob. Really appreciate the kind words. I'd have to recommend the creo ps 771 for this. It sprays just like a micron and is incredible for painting detail. The only thing is that you MUST be using a good airbrush paint for it to spray well. The .18 is unforgiving with cheaper paints. Awesome airbrush though and I'll bet you'll love it. The only other detail airbrush I like more is the micon takumi.
@@theartworkshop Thank you so very much for this recommendation, I have bought one and Absolutely agree with your recommendation!!!! It works perfectly for what i need to be done.. Thank you!
I’ve owned most of the airbrushes on the list, and I agree on most of what you say. But I would say that the Olympos MP-200 is superior to any Iwata built Micron. Better build quality through and through. Better nozzles and needles. Better trigger feel. Only negative point is the shape of the bottom of the cups. They are the older style, that are more hard to clean. But if you can find a good MP-200, built before the factory closed, you would probably be a satisfied airbrusher. But beware of the ones sold after the factory closed. They are assembled from leftover parts and not as good as the original. The MP-200A is my favourite. Short body, minimal, but existing cup (not without a cup like the Iwata HP-A), and smooth as nothing else. Also the Olympos SP-series are great airbrushes. Some of them spray unbelievably good. And while on the subject of best built airbrushes, I would probably put the German Efbe airbrushes in my top 5 as well. Sad that they are gone.
I love comments like this- such awesome information! I would just love to get my hands on one of those original olympos models but haven't had any luck yet. a few older grail airbrushes I'm after and the olympus has to be added to that list. Thanks for this and have a great week!
I love how you review them on video and I'm very surprised the Eclipse is the top one... I thought it was going to be a more expensive one, but the reasons given, the durability, price, consistency and ability to work with any paint are great reasons. I was wondering if you have ever tried the Tamiya Spray Works HG Super Fine and what do you think of it?...
thanks! No I haven't but I will certainly add it to the list of ones I need to check out. Thank you very much for the recommendation! Tamiya is a brand I need to get into.
@@theartworkshopbtw, do you consider important the ease of getting spare parts for an airbrush or do you think they dont tend to break under very good care?
@@theartworkshop @theartworkshop awesome, thank you for replying… idk the tamiya airbrushes look (to me) very interesting. Supposedly they are built (the HG ones) by the same iwata manufacturer and they are under $100 USD… looking forward to see your review videos.
greetings Mark, great videos, having started airbrushing in 1975 the real only game in town was Paasche airbrushes and One Shot Enamel, for the very few airbrush painters out there at the time (I was in LA) no one shared anything with anybody, nothing, it was all trail and error, (this was way before Createx and most everything out there today, I probably shot everything you could shoot through an airbrush while painting on t-shirts to custom vans, low riders, murals, etc.) so I really enjoy your sharing and teaching your excellent talent pretty much for free, that's a real blessing in today's economy, one of the reasons I started to support in a small way you and your channel, at 76 I still paint in my studio and enjoy watching all of the new techinques that have evolved since I began airbrushing, keep up the great work, reguarding your lesson today I have most of the airbrushes you shared about along with my 7 paasches I began painting with 50 years ago, which all still work great, p.s. my first VL3 cost me $5.00 at a swap meet, but like you I do love the Iwata's which I have use since the 90's, thanks again, I do admire you and your work, the folks out in the world of TH-cam are really getting an amazing education in the airbrush field from you and some of the many talented artist who freely share, great stuff!! t.
Thomas thank you so so much for your generous support. It's so kind of you and I greatly appreciate it. I used tons of one shot too! Works well but will clear out the house. I still love it for lettering (with a traditional brush) though.
I appreciate the kinds words. It's a pleasure to get to know people like you on here and I really enjoy doing it. 76 today is still a young man!! Plenty of great paintings ahead of you my friend. I absolutly need to get more paasches on this channel. The talon I have is fantastic and I'll need to pick up a vl-3. Bet it will cost me more than $5!! Thanks again Thomas.
amazing detailed Video :) thank you and your drawed Arts ar unbelivebal !! O_o wow !@@theartworkshop
@@theartworkshop I've found the The Paasche Millennium with a picker cap and rounded half ball trigger is the ants pants.
I bought out the supplier of Frisk CS 10 Board here in Oz when they shut down ... still glad I did as I still have about one box and a couple sheets left... Drew called me and told me about "His" new board ... pricey in Australian Dollars.
Side note. I took a trip to Michigan before COVID hit and stopped at "MACK BRUSH" company and way overspent ... worth the trip! (My partner was one of my students from my adult class in 1993, as she was a "Ticket Writer") so she also helped me spend too much...LOL
I still have a Paasche Talon, & a Paasche Raptor that I get out still sometimes. Sure they're not quite like my H&S & Hansa airbrushes but they aren't bad at all. I paint cars, and custom benchrifle stocks which I do custom graphics as well. Airbrushing and paint has came a long way even over just the past 20 years let alone 50yrs. Having water based createx that you cant put right over solvent based that you put two coats of solvent based base clear over first that you can then top clear with automotive urethane clear coat when your finished has made things so nice now days
Your channel is amazing, thanks for all the explanations and tutorials. I have a question - is there any major difference between the Eclipse HP-CS and the HP-BS ?
I need the smaller cup size, but everyone is always only talking about the CS, so I was wondering. Thanks in advance!
Thank you so much! I really appreciate that. Your work is fantastic.
The HP-BS is basically the same airbrush as the HP-CS, but with a smaller cup. The HP-BS is also a little bit shorter. They both have the same nozzle, head system, trigger, etc and spray exactly the same. Can't go wrong with either of them. hope this helps!
@@theartworkshop I had a hunch that would be the case, but I wanted to make sure before I made the investment. So this helps a lot, thanks for taking the time to reply!
1-iwata micron
2-infinity chameleon
3-iwata hp-cs
Great video and appreciate your art and knowledge. 😎
Thanks- The infinity chameleon is a beauty!! Love that airbrush!!
@@theartworkshop agree. It’s like holding a pencil it’s so lite. And thanks dredfx trigger fix it’s now right on point. 😎😎👍🏼
I stumbled on this video just a couple of days after ordering an Iwata Eclipse HP-CS. Happy it's even on your list, let alone at the top. I paint models - trains, planes, armour etc. I've been getting good results with the Paasche Talon. Looking forward to learning the Eclipse.
I just ordered a iwaka revolution br last week to get started on my air brush journey. So hyped to see this on your list.
1) Iwata Micron CM-C Plus , 2) Iwata HP-CH HI-Line, 3) H&S Infinity CR Plus, 4) Badger RK-1 Renegade Krome, 5) Badger Sotar 20 /20- 2, 6) RichPen 212 B, 7) Olympos HP-100A
My top 3-- Olympos MP200-C Micron (I have two), Olympos MP200-B Micron, Olympos SP-B...just received a 2024 H & S Evo CRPlus solo yesterday that I just love using already--trigger is super smooth w/ instant response. Retired all my Iwatas (including a CM-C Micron) after I got my first Olympos Micron. Have been tempted to get an HP-100B or C, but now seriously thinking about getting a 2024 H & S Infinity when they get released.
@sped17373 I love the H&S Infinity, and Chameleon, new Ultra, and the Hansa 581. They are my favorites I own. Sold my Iwata's once I tried ny first H&S
I think you did a very good review, specifically stating what you are looking for in your use and style. Currently, I spray Fiber Reactive Dyes on my turned wooden bowls, but am looking to expand my finished products to other media, especially on my bowls. Thank you for the review.
I did the upgrade to my Ultra with the Evo 24 trigger and spring. I use a .2 nozzle, fineline head with the Giraldez needle caps.
Without the cup its just the GOAT for detail (for me). There is no difference in performance to an Infinity, but the cup is entirely removable and it has no annoying cut out or a limiter. Insane brush
Man, I would love to see a video from you on miniature painting, I think everyone (possibly yourself included) could learn a lot from that. I’d like to see using the brands of paints that are marketed towards mini painting to see your pros and cons, how to thin them properly, and most importantly would be to see how painting onto ‘shapes’ where that third dimension (curves and concaves) affect painting because of the way air moves around those shapes.
I'm sure that is very true. There is always something to learn from all aspects of painting. I'll consider it for sure- thanks!
@@theartworkshop it would be amazing, I think you realise you're starting to get a lot of interest from mini painters and that's only going to continue.
Agree with number 1 - have used it the most.
Have the sotar, ps270, ps771and HPCS.
Use them all except the sotar - have two and both spray grainy compared to japanese brands. Not sure why.
I have the Sotar and know what you mean. I have fixed this by removing the needle and gently pulling the tip of the needle across very fine sandpaper (800 or more grit) a few times. Doing this puts a nice smooth tip back on the needle..
Great breakdown. As requested, my top five: 5. Thayer and Chandler Model A 4. Aerograph Super 63A 3. H&S Infinity CR. 2. Iwata HP-AH 1. Paasche Turbo AB
greatlist- Paasche turbo at #1 is awesome!! still need to get myself one of those
They come up for sale every so often. I have one from 1931 and one of the last from '80. Paasche still has parts for them. I bought my first brush in '82 at the original Pearl Paint on Canal St. I was a pink kid with a pocketful of cash and wanted the best brush they had. The guy refused to even show me the Turbo, said it was for pros only. I settled on an Iwata HP-BC2 that I still use (all original parts too). A few years back I grabbed one and loved it, then got the '31 and was amazed how smooth it is. I don't think I paid more than $50 for either one. Some some reason I've been into getting vintage brushes lately, although I'm probably grabbing a Creos 771 now after your video. I don't do enough illustration to warrant spending five bills on a Micron and I have 3 Iwata (TH, BC2 and AH). @@theartworkshop
Just want to mention two things: I grabbed a Creos 771 on your recommendation (direct from Japan for $148) and yes, its fantastic. Many thanks for pointing this one out. Second, based on your requirements of trigger response, I was using my 70 year old T&C Model A last night (I got it for $23 last month on eBay) and while it doesn't have the bells and whistles of a modern brush, one thing I think you'd love is it has an adjustable mechanical stop in front of the trigger. You can finely tune the response of fluid flow. Playing around I was able to set it to produce the tiniest, consistent dots I've ever airbrushed just by depressing the trigger. And there was no spitting or splatter from buildup on the tip. Just dots, on target for days. I thought it was an interesting design. Between that and the air cap that works like a spatter cap/MAC valve, this $23 find is as accurate and adjustable as my Paasche Turbo AB. After a few minutes polishing the needle, it gets fine lines to rival both the .15mm Infinity CR plus and the .18mm Creos 771. Another perk is its so small it feels like you're holding an old pencil nub. I've bought 3 in the past year, none more than $25 with the case. Keep an eye out for a treat. Thayer and Chandler Model A (they became Badger and current Model 100 parts are the same as the Model A)
oh man $148 is such a deal!! I've ordered a few Iwatas from distributors in Japan before and even with shipping and taxes it's still way cheaper.
That is awesome about the Thayer & Chandler. I've got to start getting into the vintage models because I hear so many amazing things. Paasche Turbo is one I'm 100% getting someday. Isn't just incredible to see how advanced some of these 100 year old tools are?! I have a few SK sockets and ratchets from the 30's and they are amazing. I will have to get the model A as well because you've got me interested now! Thanks so much for this.
@theartworkshop A brand about the same quality sockets and wrenches as SK is Powerbuilt, made in Taiwan. It's often carried at OReilly auto parts stores. It's very high quality steel at a decent price.
I paint O scale model trains, which are rather on the large size. Large area coverage, followed by detail spray doing weathering and shading puts a lot pressure on a brush to do a range of duty. My primary has become the Iwata HP-BCS, a siphon bottle system that allows larger volume needed when painting large area. It has been customized with an adjustable stop tailpiece from the Micron line. I find it amazing in its ability to both do large area coverage, and small detail. I did just buy the new Gaahleri Swallowtail with fan tip which may well become my new large area standard. This opens the door to convert the HP-BCS to .35 nozzle as yours is so equipped, and make it more adept at the detail end. I have been tempted to buy a Micron .18 for years, just because it is such a wonderful fine detail tool, but for the kind of work I do, the truth is, its not necessary. I can only agree with your assessment.. Iwata.. In the order you show, for the reasons you give👍.
Nice top 10 your like me big collection 👌 of brushes I see you got the new ULTRA I have something coming very soon 😮
Thanks! gave you a shout out at 11:16 in this video on your excellent H&S trigger upgrade
@@theartworkshopnice one 👍
Ahh nice to see you interacting here dred!! That trigger upgrade was a game changer for me on that brush.
@@bubba6richards729 cool nice one 👍
@dredfx. Can’t wait for your evo opinion. (And difference with the infinity when you are allowed to release that one 😊
Thank you. You voice reminds me some documentaries from the 90’s, it’s very calming. Love all the review. Already order a Iwata Eclipse
Thanks so very much!
I’ve got a bottle fed Iwata Eclipse that I got ages ago. Got it for $30 because an art store was closing. I got it for painting surf boards and found that that thing is my absolute work horse. I was hard pressed to find a job it isn’t good at. Love that thing. I’ve probably had it 20 years now and I bought a bunch of replacement parts when I got it. With the exception of one piece that I dropped down the sink, so I had to replace it, every single original part is going strong and all my replacement parts are still in the packaging. It’s so hard to find items that are made so well the only issues you ever have with them are pilot errors.
Hey Mark, thank you very much for this video. It is very detailed and someone like me that is just starting out, really benefits from a video like this.
So happy to hear that and I'm glad it's helpful. Best of luck to you!!
Thank you The Art Work shop bro for the info💯💯💯💯👌🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼🙏🏼💫💫💫💫💫
My number 1 is also the Iwata Eclipse. But then, it's the only one I own, so... I have always believed in buying the best tool there is and the Eclipse was rated as the best by the places I researched.
Thank you for this video. As I watched it I was astounded to see some of your work! Honestly, I had absolutely no idea that kind of thing could be done with an airbrush. I'm one of those who do model railroad custom painting but never, in a million years, could I do something like I just saw in this video! I have subscribed just to watch something as wonderful as this just for the pure pleasure of seeing it,
thanks so much for the kind words. So glad to hear that you enjoyed it.
My favorite airbrush for modeling railroad is my Badger 155 Anthem I use for acrylic paints. For lacquer and enamel paints I use my Harbor Freight Chinese .3mm airbrush. Harbor Freight 1/5 HP compressor and I have an 8 gallon compressor if the need arises. I figured that the lacquer & enamel paints need to be atomized more than acrylic so .5mm for acrylics and .3mm for lacquer/enamel. However, I did use the Badger to repaint my 1925 Coleman stove. I'm no artist and don't really use it like you do. Great artist with an airbrush. Your copies look just like the original. I may have to give it a try. Cheers from eastern TN
Thanks for the awesome vid. Fyi- Paasche offers a .10 needle. Never used one this small but it's out there.
do they?! I didn't know that. Thanks!
I have for almost 35 years a Thayer & Chandler A10 for painting pictures and scale models, but the last week got damaged for the first time, the the air valve spring broke. So I finally decided to leave in peace my old airbrush and get a new one. My top three are Iwata Eclipse HP-CS, Harder & Steenbeck - ULTRA and just for having another blast of luck for the next 35 years a Thayer & Chandler - Omni Matrix. Thank you for this top ten, it was a good guide to pick up an airbrush. 👌👌👌
how amazing- That is a special airbrush to make it almost 4 decades!! Here's to another 35 with your new airbrushes. Great top 3
Ranking my own airbrushes:
Grex Titanium 110220 - it has a pistol grip and trigger, so I can use it when my hands (arthritis) are sizing up.
Iwata Eclipse - easy to learn and use, simple to maintain.
H&S Evolution 2022 - everything is so stable and perfect
H&S Evolution (2024) - perfection
But you’ve convinced me to buy a badger sotar
excellent ratings! I agree that new evo24 is perfection. I love that model. I actually just ordered another sotar 20/20 to see if they changed anything since my last one. I bet you'll love the sotar too. It's one of my favorites.
I had to stop and subscribe. Take that as a compliment. I'm a modeler, both in balsa wood airplanes and (trying to get back into) plastic models. When I was a kid I had a bottom of the line Badger airbrush which I ran off air from a spare car tire. It didn't take long for the air to run out and I'd have to roll it back to the gas station and pump it up again. I've never been good at airbrushing, but I've been moving up from Harbor Freight, to Paasche, to cheap Chinese knock offs. And I've been working on improving technique, which must be working because an adhesives company wanted to use a picture of one of my models for advertising. So I think I'm finally ready for the Iwata Neo or the Harder and Steenbeck Ultra. And I have the perfect spare tire picked out!
That's awesome- thank you! I love the neo for iwata and the H&S ultra. 2 great airbrushes in my opinion!
My number one from the ones I own if I had to start all over would be the iwata kustom hp-ch! Can do basically everything. Thanks for sharing. Great choices!
I loved that Iwata Kustom line! Awesome airbrushes- Wish they still producing them.
Gsi creos 289 without the valve is 274 as I was told, I have the 274 and they work amazing as well
The best airbrush is the one that you feel comfortable and at ease with like an extension of your hand. One that you do not need to think about while using. It may be plain or cheap and expensive and fancy. Only the user can determine that. Thanks for your videos... most informative.
love this! very well said.
Such awesome and helpful information. Just starting out with airbrushing. Ive used many different painting methods but never had enough knowledge. Thank you, thank you for all the tips for before I even make a picture!
Glad it was helpful- thanks so very much!
I was trying to focus on the airbrushes, but I can't get over how good of a painter you are
hey thanks so much!
You are right... each airbrush may be better for certain work ... I would always tell my students, consider price, cost of parts, availability of parts and the type of wok you do... Paasche uses mostly brass for parts and brass is cheaper so the price of parts reflect that. EFBE has harden fluid nozzles and needles and are milled to match. Mine is an old one and is 0.15 mm. Sadly they stopped production of a AB Turbo. The Iwata Micron, built on licence from Olympus. As you said to each their own. The SP-35 Sparmax is inexpensive and handles Titanium White Acrylics with no issues.The The Thayer & Chandler Model A came out at the turn of the century (1900). Paasche AB Turbo 1905 ... Great detail...
Thank you for your channel Mark, Really enjoyed this overview of your top ten, as I do all of your videos. I use many different makes of brushes and agree totally with your top choice, I still remember that feel and response first time using the Eclipse and saying to myself, Ah this is why everyone raves on about them. It will remain my go to brush when finishing up various artworks.
Thanks so much! that eclipse is a hard airbrush to beat- I feel very much the same as you. seems like everyone loves it as well. Best to you in your paintings!
Very good review, I totally agree with the comments for all the airbrushes that I own or that I could get my hands on to review (I never tried the Iwata Microns, neither the new H&S Ultra 2024, and never used extensively a Badger Sotar).
Personally for the way my setup is, the Iwata Revolution or the Eclipse (I've tried them and love them, but don't own them) would not be so great because they do'nt have a mac valve, and an air control valve is usefull for me as my compressor is in another room. I don't like some aftermarket air valve under the airbrush as I don't find them confortable, so I like the H&S concept of the fPc valve (I have bought one for each of my 3 H&S airbrushes). I too rank the Evolution and particulary the Infinity quite low because of the bad trigger design. And my Creos 289, that I bought without thinking much about it after seeing one of your videos was truely a great surprise... I love it, and it is my go to airbrush now.
how great is the 289?! creos is one of the best. And pretty much all of them have mac valves so it's sounds perfect for you.
I was about to give up on the Infinity, but the fix over at Dredd FX channel cost a couple bucks and takes minutes to implement. It makes the trigger response dead on point.
Another great video, I always enjoy watching your reviews and hearing your opinions. For my part I have a few Creos brushes on the rack and love them all. Among them I have a PS-771 and, I also wished for an alternate, smaller paint cup option. I discovered that many of the 771 parts are a drop-fit on some of the Chinese Micron look-alikes. I have converted a few of these and they are my go-to brushes for a lot of small shot detail work. As a modeler I use them for a lot of weathering effects including spraying artist oils and speckling. I have a few Brushes with PS-770/771 heads based on Fengda BD-208’s (aka Master G48 and PointZero PZ-408). These feature a small 2cc cup but are otherwise identical to the more common 9cc models. The conversions involved replacing the head assembly, needle, and air valve with Creos parts.
I love my creos brushes as well. They are incredible!
I have owed a lot over the years. My list
1. Iwata HP-b plus
2. Neoeco NTC-SJ183
3. Evolution 2024 model
4. Iwata HP-CH plus
5. Iwata Revolution
Great video. It gave me a lot to think about. I might look into the H&S Ultra. A top quality airbrush that won't break the bank. Thank you.
First time watching your channel. Had to subscribe. Going to start building models again and need a air brush. Really like the H&S 2024 Ultra but then you showed me the Evolution. I do like your review on the ultra that it can be Frankensteined. If you had to pick for me as i would be doing detail work and some large areas of a model car, what would be your choice.
Thanks again for your Awesome reviews
the ranking of my airbrushes:
1. Iwata HP BH (makes me feel like a pro, I do not like the screw in tiny nozzle. I have to be sure to filter the paint so I get no dry specks. It doesn't come with a cup cap which I like to prevent paint drying)
2. H&S Infinity CR Plus (the best airbrush for just sheer overall joy of use and ease of upkeep... it just doesn't paint as good as the Iwata. Inconsistent as you mentioned)
3. Creos 289 (works well, but has the tiny nozzle like the Iwata making it a hassle)
4. Badger Patriot (small cup arrow version) I use this with a large needle for spraying primer so it actually get's used alot but it sucks down alot of paint
5. Badger Krome (This was a good airbrush when I got it but after a while it started letting paint back flow down the needle behind the cup and that caused no end to my troubles)
I love everything about this list!! I agree with everything as well. I think you nailed it on the infinity. It's just fun to paint with!
I have the h&s ultra 2024 and it's a blast for miniature painting 👍🏻
I agree it's awesome!
The angle on the creos would make it good for miniature painting, which is for what I'd use it.
I just like to thank you for your amazing and inspiring videos. I really was in doubt on which airbrush to get. After watching your videos I made my mind to get the Iwata Eclipse.
Bought the Creos PS-771 before watching this comparison, but didn't use until after watching. Looks like I bought the right airbrush. I really like this airbrush, and do find it effective on detail painting. I am using it to put Chroma Craft wood dye on a maple hollow form, and it is working very well.
It's an excellent airbrush! One of my favorites out today.
Great channel and video! I usually have a Pashee Talon what would be a good airbrush to update to from that one?
I use them for miniature painting and even when I have the 3 needles for the talon I would like to get a more precise airbrush for the tinniest details.
thanks so much! The talon is a great airbrush. I really enjoy painting with it. You might like a detail airbrush for miniatures. The creos ps771 is awesome and so is the new Harder and Steenbeck Ultra with the .28. A new infinity is coming out soon, but I haven't tried it out yet. Hope this helps!
Hey bud, thank you for such a rad video.
I’m a novice mini painter interested in getting a better airbrush. I picked up the Youfu one that come with a mini compressor and it’s ok for base coating, but I’d like to up my game a bit. My local store sells the eclipse, would you recommend that for someone in my position, or would the Ultra be a better choice?
Also, I’d love to see a video with you trying some of the miniature acrylics paints; vallejo, citadel, etc.
thank you much and keep it up!
So happy to see my brand new Revolution on the list! I use it strictly for 1/8 scale RC car/truck lexan bodies, so I’m super happy with the purchase. Thanks for sharing! 🤙
I love the revolution. It's such an awesome airbrush. Best of luck to you!
Definitely plus one on the mini painting suggestion, you'll get a lot of traction from those of us in the mini community. You're artwork is beautiful and i know i would love to see what you could do on a 3 dimensional object.
I appreciate it- thanks so much! I'm a big fan of the mini community. i've met so many miniature and scale modelers since starting this channel and they are awesome! a great community of people.
Where would the new 2024 evolution place in this list? I'm torn about getting the eclipse or evolution 2in1 for my first brush and it's very difficult to pick.
oh man that's a hard one- I love them both to be honest. The new evo is really really good, but I personally like the eclipse more. It's my favorite airbrush ever so my answer is probably biased. Both are awesome airbrushes though. Best of luck to you!
I’m happy to see the two brushes I own on this list and couldn’t agree more. I was surprised to see the Eclipse in front given all the grail brushes you have but we like what we like. Thanks Mark
Thanks Ryland- The eclipse is a grail brush to me!
I'm not surprised at all the Eclipse HP-CS came out on top against all the competition. The Eclipse HP-CS just embarrasses anything you compare it to. #MYIWATA
hey mark, what are your thoughts on the green coluor plastic airbrush handle that you can buy for more ergonomic grip , i putted that on sotar and hp b+ , and i think i does help with fatigue.. have u tried them?
that sounds like a great addition. I haven't used them because I'm so used to the standard feel, but anything that makes it more comfortable and helps with fatigue is a good thing in my book!
Love my Iwata revolution, but have problem when using start is awesome but after like 50% of paint it starts to irregular with spraying and even do a spider web when at first was ideal. I’m using 5 drops of paint 1:1 with thinner. Do you have any recommendations to deal with it?
My List:
H&S Silverline (owned)
becasuse it can be taken apart with no wear and tear (the threaded nozzles, I imagine, are better left alone as much as possible) so I can spray anything and just take apart and clean easily. I don't need the precise trigger response (paint comes out at same trigger position everytime) that you get with Iwata or Creos when I am just painting even surfaces.
GSI Creos ProconBoy PS-290 (owned)
It is a beast for big objects or for clear or gloss coats. The amount of over spray is reduced when spraying wide, as opposed to doing the same with a normal geometry needle design.
PS-270 (need to buy)
I want one AB that has the precise trigger response, for painting precise lines, like grime streaks on a model. I think this is the best bang for buck out there.
Basically and TL;DR one AB for general priming and base coating that can be cleaned easily without risk of damaging threads.
One AB for wet coating and painting larger areas with minimal overspray (1)
One AB for precise work, they all seem to have the small threaded nozzles, so I would use it only for this usecase, as I imagine it would be difficult to remove the Viton o-ring on the nozzle to clean it after spraying lacquers.
(1) When you try to cover larger areas with normal geometry needles (long tapered) there will be 60-90% overspray area on the outsdide diameter. With the PS290 the needle taper is only a few millimeters (as opposed to 10-20mm) so you can get a cone of paint with only the outside 10-20mm being overspray. I define overspray here as the speckled part of the paint cone
awesome list!!
Great review and information. Two airbrushes to consider are the Richpen Phoenix Mojo by Mike Learn and the Olympos HP100SB. Both are close competitors to the Micron. The Richpen Mojo is a bit pricey, but worth it IMO. The Olympos HP100sb is about $100 and close in performance to the Micron. Thanks for all your videos.
thanks- i absolutely need to check out Richpen. I've heard nothing but great things and they look awesome. same goes for olympus!
I started off with some cheaper airbrushes, I finally saved some money and got the Eclipse and its made airbrushing so much more enjoyable.
Hi Mark, I was just doing research for buying an airbrush and stumbled across your video.
I just got started airbrushing scale models a few months back, so started off with a cheapo Chinese brush to just learn the basics.
I’m now ready to move up to a better model and am torn between the H&S Ultra 2024 and the Iwata Revolution HP-CR3, so was pretty happy to see both of these in your top ten.
I hear that the Ultra 2024 is aimed at the beginner, so would this be a better choice for me over the Revolution?
Keep up the great videos.
oh man those are 2 really great airbrushes in my opinion. I'd be happy with either one. For models and starting out, I think the ultra 24 might be a better choice because those features can be very helpful. For what I do, I prefer the revolution. Again, you can't go wrong with either!
Would you recommend a Iwata Eclipse HP-CS or the H&S Ultra 2024 for Warhammer mini painting? I'm a first time airbrush buyer but you really caught my attention when you said buy the Iwata once for life. If its good for Warhammer 40k painting I am sold!
If you want to get Ultra, take the 2 in 1. Otherwise Eclipse.
I bought 2 airbrushes while watching this video and got to the end and found that the #1 is the airbrush I owned all along lol! But excited to get my H&S Ultra and Iwata revolution in the mail now too. awesome video man! Thank you!!
thanks! 3 awesome airbrushes you've got. I find myself reaching for the iwata revolution so much these days.
Because i liked your review i just ordered an iwata eclipse as my first air brush. Thank you for your unbiased reviews my friend.
Awesome choice!! Honestly it's all you'll ever need. Best of luck to you.
Beautiful collection! I do agreed with everything you said about the Iwata microns as well as the Creos 771, that one is a magnificent airbrush for a super cheap price, (compared with the microns). I do not own any H&S or Badger airbrushes so I can't comment on those. But I think any Japanese airbrush will perform really well do to their quality control! Great helpful review! Thanks!!!!
Thanks so much! not sure how they can sell that 771 for such a low price with that quality- a fantastic airbrush
Thanks for the video! Which would you recommend between the HP-CS and the H&S Ultra? I'm planning to use it for painting helmets and various art projects, using Createx Wicked and other automotive paints.
Both are awesome. Honestly you can't go wrong with either. The ultra is very nice to start and learn with.
I paint mainly miniatures, but I am also interested to eventually paint all types of things. I really like the trigger lock mechanism for beginners, availability of parts, and having the option to change nozzle sizes. These are selling points for the Ultra 2024. The Iwata, from what i've read and info gathered, is just one of the best airbrushes ever. Reliable, smooth, comfortable, universal usage, tried and true. I can get an Iwata for $150, and the Ultra is $110. What would you suggest to get? Or your thoughts?
Both are awesome airbrushes. The ultra is very good to learn the basics and some trigger control but I personally like the Iwata eclipse more. It's an airbrush you'll never need to upgrade from. Can't go wrong with either though!
This channel is incredibly informative and helpful thanks for the content
I appreciate that. thanks!
i got myself for christmas a iwata hp b plus side feed version, loving the airbrush, atomization and control is perfect!!!
what an awesome airbrush! I just LOVE the side feed version of it. A perfect airbrush if you ask me.
Great list out of my collection it's ps289, Iwata custom micron (very close to each other) and Passche Talon using the. 38 needle/nozzle the trigger is incredibly smooth and very responsive that's my top 3, I also have a Passche VL which is smooth and responsive for a cheaper brush and I have a badger patriot 105 which could easily slot in ahead of the VL and there's no need to mention my neoeco and masters garbage.
perfect top 3! I love the talon too.
Can't wait to see your review on the infinity 2024. They said the trigger was fixed so that's promising
me too! I can't wait to start working with it. Hopefully it ships out soon.
As a mini painter I'm sure mine will differ, but I like watching what artists are doing with them
1 - H&S infinity -AG edition (trigger response is better on this version)
2 - Gahleeri Swallowtail - Barbatos Rex edition
3 - Badger - Sotar 20/20
4 - Iwata - Eclipse
I wonder how iwata Revolution HP-CR3 (with 0.3 mm nozzle) compares to the Eclipse. Where it will go on your list?
I didn’t have to look to know the eclipse would be the number 1
Still mine as well and like you I collect a lot of different ones.
I knew it would be your #1 as well! It's hard to beat.
Absolutely love your videos, they are so informative. I have about 2 years of experience with airbrushes and do mainly car bodies and some aircraft. In your opinion is it OK to use acrylics and enamels and lacquers with the same airbrush or have multiple brushes for each type of paint? Which of your top 10 would you recommend for me to use for my applications? Three recommendations if you will. Also, easy cleaning is a big priority for me. Thanks
thanks so much! As long as you do a good job at cleaning out the paint and drying out the solvents you'll be fine. You just need to be careful, because water mixing with solvent based lacquers or those mixing with water based paint will make a mess. My old eclipse has had every type of paint sprayed through it imaginable. Hope this helps!
What you can advice for miniatures painting with acrylic?
Iwata HC or HP-B?
Because priming with 0.2 little bit harder than 0.35, but detail work is very good, right?
Eclipse with 0.35 is it good for detail work compared with HP-B?
This is the best channel for airbrush. Thank you for the videos!
thanks so much!
I use my eclipse most of the time since it's easy to clean. Even though my microns and 771 shoot better. But great video as always. Thanks
Thanks for this information. I am buying a pre-owned Iwata HP B plus. After your info on the nozzle, I'm concerned & I have some more questions about it. Would you mind if I ask you? Thank you!
Great paintings!!
Thanks so much. Please, ask anything you'd like! I'm happy to help in any way that I can.
@@theartworkshop Thanks so much! I received the pre-owned HP B plus & am trying to assess it right now. It does spray & put out paint. Doesn't seem as small a pattern as I had anticipated or the paint coming out as quickly, but I haven't done much yet. The handle was stuck but I got it. But, the needle isn't coming out and the guard at the tip is stuck to the head. The head is not stuck but I don't know about just taking it off!! It looks like someone may have used something on it & scratched it up.
I know about breaking down airbrushes & getting them going, but this is an IWATA! (My first one, I've wanted one forever!!!) And, after finding out from your video about the head situation and how it needs a special tool & everything I've been worried about what to do in handling it & probably needing to replace some parts and so, I wanted to ask you for your advice with it. Do I need to get one of those tools? It did not come with one.
Thank you very much. I really appreciate it!
@@CreativeHeart-jk1xr Congrats on your first Iwata! They are fantastic and that HP B should serve you well. It sounds like you are looking to replace the nozzle and the nozzle cap. Before you swap anything out, I would work with the airbrush for a few days or weeks to see if you can get comfortable using it. Generally when one of those parts is broken, you'll see bubbles in the cup and the airbrush will spray very little paint, if any at all. It sounds like the airbrush is spraying for you. which is a good sign. The only thing I usually replace on a used airbrush is the needle. See if you can get your airbrush to spray fine lines, dots, gradients (all that fun stuff). If you find out the nozzle is in fact damaged, Iwata sells a nozzle wrench that you can use to remove it and replace with a new one. The airbrush comes with a small spanner wrench to unscrew it as well, but maybe the original owner misplaced it. I'm sure you'll get it working. Hope this helps and best of luck to you!
Just to add my two cents. I mostly spray miniatures with acrylics so paints are on the thicker side. I own an Iwata HP C+, an Iwata CR, a Sotar and a Badger patriot xtreme 0,3 which is the equivalent of Iwata Eclipse in my opinion. Tear drop nozzle design helps a ton, very easy to break down and clean and very precise. If you ever get the chance try one out I think you will happily surprised. Great informant video btw explain the purpose and usage of airbrushes and the reasons behind the ranking. Thank you.
Excellent points! I 100% agree with badger teardrop shaped nozzles. I love them too
Love your video. Very well put together. I do own few airbrushes including the Iwata Eclipse. I’m in the process of ordering the 2024 HS Ultra or Evolution 2in1. Haven’t made up my mind on which one yet. Maybe both lol.
thanks! ive been really enjoying the new evolution. Both are solid choices though- best of luck to you!
Well, I just bought the Gaahleri Airbrush Kit, Airbrush Gun Dual Action Gravity Feed Set, 0.38 & 0.5mm Needles, and the Iwata Eclipse Takumi Side Feed Dual Action Airbrush, ECL350T.
I also have the Iwata HP BC1 plus, and cheaper Master Airbrush, can't remember the model number. I'm doing models and custom guitar bodies. Probably start doing some portraits and landscapes too. I think I'd particularly like painting animals.
Excellent review channel, succinct and relatable. GOLD standard for me, a model airplane builder. So, I have a Badger 105, three tips, and with the main goal of spraying 1/72 Luftwaffe "Wellenmuster" (continuous squiggly lines) and Italian mottled camo on about twenty kits before I croak, but the 0.3 Patriot is not fine enough. The Patriot is east to clean, and I tend to be brand-loyal, so the SOTAR is appealing, but fussy to clean? Not necessarily a deal breaker, but somewhat important. But so many choices here! Main goal is a that tight line with minimum over-spray while doing the above camo patterns. Any advice from you Luftwaffe lovers?
I AGREE THE IWATA ECLPSE IS ALL AROUND AIRBRUSH WHAT YOU FORGOT TO SAY IS THAT THE ECLIPSE IS A WAYHORSE I MEAN IT TAKES A BEATING AND KEEPS ON AND ON !!! GREAT VIDEO
On the Iwata Eclipse, what are the 2 letters stamped on the body following "JAPAN"?
if u have 2 cups for eclipse takumi can u place both of them at the same time one on the right one on the left? is it working?
I have picked up the badger extreme patriot and Sotar 2020. The instructions say 30psi. For scale modeling that is a bit high in my experience. What are the optimal range psi in your estimation and experience? Thanks in advance. Love the videos by the way.
2 awesome airbrushes! Yes, 30psi is a great place to start and usually optimal for smooth atomization. If you use a high quality airbrush paint and reduce it you can drop it down to 25-20 and still get excellent performance. I usually spray at around 20 psi for createx illustration colors with 10-20% reduction. For over reduced I'll spray at around 12-15psi, but that is only for very specific applications.
I typically use Tamiya, AK interactive or Mr. Color hobby paints for my models. Diluted about 50-50 or 60-40 paint to thinner.@@theartworkshop
For a first time beginner would you recommend the H&S Ultra or the Iwata Eclipse?
Nice video! Thanks for producing such high quality review. Looking forward to see you to review Tamiya 74537 / 74514 airbrush, both are manufactured by Rich Pen Japan
thanks! Yes, I have to get to Rich Pen. Heard many great things about them
I have both the Iwata Eclipse and the H&S Evolution and love both.
Hi, I'm a miniature painter. I have the Infinity CR-Plus and the Evolution, both by H&S, they are fine but, for painting details, I prefer my Holbein Y-2. I'm thinking in buying an Iwata Micron, but I have some doubts about if the inversion would be worthy.
Started with a neo kit(iwata)
Not a fan
Got a 15$ airbrush of the internet, it got me going.
Then i got a harbor freight kit. It worked.
After being able to fine detail with the cheap stuff
Reaper vex(swear it's a badger airbrush)
Now my go to.
Bought a gaahleri GHAD-39 for 5mm needle but havent used it yet
Will most likely buy a H&S ultra 2024, cause it seems awesome.
YOU ARE AWESOME!!!!!!!!!!
Thanks for the amazing videos
Thanks! those cheap $15 are an excellent place to start and see if you like it. The gaahleri 39 is a huge upgrade from those, and a great airbrush. I really like it. And yeah the ultra 24 is pretty incredible
Just bought an eclipse 2 days ago .seeing this vid now confirmed I made a good choice for my first airbrush
excellent choice! I love that airbrush
Thanks for this vlog. It gave me good insights.
1/ Iwata Micron 2/ Iwata HP-CP 3/ HS Infinity CR+
I got 2...Badger 105 Patriot, Badger Sotar 2020, both of them with all 3 needle/nozzles that go with each, the Patriot is great for basecoats/priming, everything else is sotar territory...I would love to get my hands on an infinity or an eclipse, but my Badgers work, and I'm terrified of falling in love with another thousand dollars worth of tools...I have more models to buy first, when I get a few years worth of plastic in my pile of potential I'll think about getting an Iwata or Harder & Steenbeck
that is the perfect duo!! I'll always love badger airbrushes. They spray amazing and that is #1 above all else
@theartworkshop Not gonna lie man, I'm a warhammer guy through and through, but those landscape paintings you do speak to an old soldier, and acknowledging that I will never achieve what you put forth, the lure is too strong, I intend on a deep dive of your channel over Thanksgiving to find a starting point, with the eventual goal to paint a number of places that are significant to me, anywhere you'd recommend I start? Createx illustration colors are already on my list lol, any advice for a hobbyist that you think will make a 1-2 hour a day effort most rewarding, knowing that I will always be predisposed to painting my armies?
awesome to hear! Most of it is about observation which I talk about a lot. Paying attention the values and colors that you see in what you're working from (photo, life, etc.) and then rendering that on your canvas. Its fun and you'll always learn something new. I wish you all the best. @@johnhildenbrand2642
I’m stuck between the Ultra 2024 and Revolution for painting lures. I’ve been using a cheap Amazon brush for two years and looking to move up. Is it just a matter of finding the best deal between the two?
Oh man that's tough. Both are awesome. A cool thing about the ulltra 24 is that you can upgrade to smaller needle, nozzle, and air cap sizes if you want to turn the airbrush into a detail version. You can get awesome detail with the stock nozzle though.
@@theartworkshopI like to paint a lot of metallic paints so the larger nozzle is a benefit but my biggest complaint is trigger control. Sometimes it works beautifully and others you just keep pulling back waiting for paint to make its way out. I think I’ll follow my gut and go for the ultra.
@@LavalleeLures I know what you mean because some metallics can be a real pain. I just love the ultra 24. It really is such a cool airbrush with amazing control. I bet you'll love it as well.
Just wanted to share with you how’s much I liked your review. Also, that your set work is what defines jealous ❤. Very talented abs I love realism art. Good on you
Thanks so very much!
Thanks for taking the time to create this detailed analysis, it is very helpful when you share your knowledge with us beginners.
I think you should have tried barbatos rex and studio G's swallow tail. Change my ways due to finger fatigue. Still can get very good detail
Have you tried the Reaper VEX? It's a Badger airbrush, even though it's branded by Reaper Miniatures. I had the Patriot before I got it and haven't used the Patriot since. You obviously know your stuff so I'd be interested in your opinion of it if you'd care to try it. Thanks for the awesome informative videos.
I have owned 4 of the top 10. Now own 2, Iwata Revolution and HP-B. Agree with your judgement putting the HS Evoution ahead of the Infinity. I two thought it was better, have sold them both. What I hated about the Infinity is that dam needle set button at the back of the airbrush. Agree on cup size too, I prefer a small cup over medium or large any day. Must get an Elipse and custom Mircon one day. Have a Gaahleri Swallowtail on the way.
Perfecto combo setup these- The revolution for general use airbrushing and the Hp-b for detail. You're set! The eclipse sprays nearly identical to both of those so one that wouldn't add much. The Gaahleri Swallowtail looks amazing- nice option for a handle trigger airbrush.
i am looking for an airbrush to paint 3d printed helmets and cosplay parts. i would like one that i can use it for fine details but also that has a good coverage since these parts are much bigger than miniatures scale models. i was thinking but i would like to hear your opinion about the iwata eclipse takumi because i don't konw if the hp-cs cup has enough capacity to do a priming or base coat or full paint in one color without having to refill during the process. with takumi i can get a bigger bottle and dont refill. what is your opinion? thanks
It really depends how much you plan to paint. What I like to do is mix my colors separately and store them in small bottles. This way they are premixed so when my airbrush runs out, I just fill it back up with the same color.
@@theartworkshop will I be able to fully paint (1 full coat) for example a mandalorian helmet with a standard 7ml or 5ml cup?
@@theartworkshop and yes this is what I plan to do as well to pre mix them in bottles but I just don’t want to run out of the 5 7 ml of paint during the coating and have to refill it. Since I mainly make helmets I would like to know if that would be enough for a full coat without the need of refill
Hi Mark, Need a little further infor and recommendation. I am a HO Scale 1/87th scale modeler. I detail freight cars and engines for clients and I am looking to get the best detail airbrush that can do small rust spots and the like. I have watched your video here and have some ideas what might work better for me than other but with the detail option that I am really wanting I would love to know what you would go with. Have no issues buying a $200 to $300 airbrush if that is what you recommend, But I do not think I need to go to the $500-600 level to get what I need. I would Love to hear back from you regarding what you recommend. Thank you for your time and ALL of your efforts with your videos, You are an incredible artist that is without question. Rob Miller
Thanks so much Rob. Really appreciate the kind words. I'd have to recommend the creo ps 771 for this. It sprays just like a micron and is incredible for painting detail. The only thing is that you MUST be using a good airbrush paint for it to spray well. The .18 is unforgiving with cheaper paints. Awesome airbrush though and I'll bet you'll love it. The only other detail airbrush I like more is the micon takumi.
@@theartworkshop Thank you so very much for this recommendation, I have bought one and Absolutely agree with your recommendation!!!! It works perfectly for what i need to be done.. Thank you!
I picked up a custom micron c at hobby lobby about 8 years ago. With a 40% coupon it was only $185. What a steal.
absolutely amazing! congrats on finding that deal
I’ve owned most of the airbrushes on the list, and I agree on most of what you say. But I would say that the Olympos MP-200 is superior to any Iwata built Micron. Better build quality through and through. Better nozzles and needles. Better trigger feel. Only negative point is the shape of the bottom of the cups. They are the older style, that are more hard to clean. But if you can find a good MP-200, built before the factory closed, you would probably be a satisfied airbrusher. But beware of the ones sold after the factory closed. They are assembled from leftover parts and not as good as the original. The MP-200A is my favourite. Short body, minimal, but existing cup (not without a cup like the Iwata HP-A), and smooth as nothing else.
Also the Olympos SP-series are great airbrushes. Some of them spray unbelievably good.
And while on the subject of best built airbrushes, I would probably put the German Efbe airbrushes in my top 5 as well. Sad that they are gone.
I love comments like this- such awesome information! I would just love to get my hands on one of those original olympos models but haven't had any luck yet. a few older grail airbrushes I'm after and the olympus has to be added to that list. Thanks for this and have a great week!
@@theartworkshop I just noticed that the Olympos MP-200A is available on eBay right now. In my opinion it's the Holy Grail of Olympos airbrushes.
I love how you review them on video and I'm very surprised the Eclipse is the top one... I thought it was going to be a more expensive one, but the reasons given, the durability, price, consistency and ability to work with any paint are great reasons. I was wondering if you have ever tried the Tamiya Spray Works HG Super Fine and what do you think of it?...
thanks! No I haven't but I will certainly add it to the list of ones I need to check out. Thank you very much for the recommendation! Tamiya is a brand I need to get into.
@@theartworkshopbtw, do you consider important the ease of getting spare parts for an airbrush or do you think they dont tend to break under very good care?
@@theartworkshop @theartworkshop awesome, thank you for replying… idk the tamiya airbrushes look (to me) very interesting. Supposedly they are built (the HG ones) by the same iwata manufacturer and they are under $100 USD… looking forward to see your review videos.