It's advertising for the company, Crawlspace Medic, so what you do about your issues is to contact them. The video showed us 3 ways to "do something about it" that they do. Encapsulation is not complicated; it's really quite simple, just hugely labor intensive so therefore it's very expensive. You can do it yourself; just buy the materials, install it all taped up, and put in a dehumidifier. Still, it's simple but difficult in a crawlspace. I would never do spray foam; it's highly toxic and near impossible to remove.
@@virginiamoss7045 I've researched a little bit & it seems like installing some some foam boards along your foundation/brick/etc is the easiest/best step to do. At least they are removable. Next is sealing up any vents with spray foam/foam board, although I wonder if rockwool+foam board would work as good?. Then installing at least 15mil, preferably 20 mil plastic for encapsulation, overlapped at minimum of 6 inches + all taped up. Leaving one vent at least and installing the dehumidifier. I don't have water flooding so I didn't mention any french draining. This doesn't seem too hard to DIY, just a ton of crawling lol. Of course the 1st step is to check humidity and mold levels, and do any remediation. The setup may differ a bit depending on where you live, I'm in the PNW.
@@alexeybalshoi2455 I'm at the opposite corner of the country from you in the southeast. Through my research, cold is not the issue; heat very much is, so insulating the crawlspace walls isn't paramount. In winter the dehumidifier will produce heat as will the ground which is always around 50 degrees F. In hot summer the crawlspace will still be naturally way cooler than the outside air even with the dehumidifier. Similarly, sealing the vents does not require heavy insulation, just sealing. As for mold, I've concluded that there is no need to do anything to the existing fungus/mold unless it's already damaged the wooden structures. It's the dry air that the dehumidifier produces that will make the mold/fungus and it's spores go dormant. Treatments only do the same thing chemically and with continued humid air will come right back. So skip it and just do the sealing up and dehumidifying. You can soda blast the mold off to make the wood and joists look nice and new if money is no object for you, but even it, with a treatment, will not kill the fungal growth, just cause it to go dormant. Of course, if an occupant of the home has severe allergies from fungal sources, they are going to have to spend a ton of money to reduce the issue or move away to a more sterile abode that will also be a ton of money.
Great video! But you don't describe the floor! On a concrete floor* would you install a plastic sheet vapor barrier before installing insulation? I can fit 3'-wide insulation boards thru the opening into my crawl space, but boards are sold 4' wide. What are you using on the floor in the 3rd part of the video? * (45 years old with no cracks, so not likely to develop cracks)
Can you please explain more about what a "sealed" crawl space is? In the lest segment of the video with the reflective foam board you state that is a sealed crawl space... but I see a vent to the outside right over your shoulder? Can you clarify? Thanks!
I'm not an expert, but from what I understand, you completely seal up a crawlspace, but also design a way to move air/moisture.. like maybe an air exchanger, dehumidifer, etc. Depends on locale.
That can trap moisture in the boards and cause rot damage. It also makes it very difficult to work on wiring or anything else that runs through the floors joists.
Not advised at all, and it's near impossible to remove if mold and wood fungus start growing there, not to mention kinds of work that might have to be done where the foam is in the way.
Which way would be the best way to insulate a crawlspace in North Louisiana Climate zone 3. If it’s a Mobil house 3’ space between the bottom of floor joists and dirt. Also, it has vinyl skirting.
The fiberglass batts between my floor joists are sagging; not overtly wet, but I suspect some moisture transfer. I don't want to insulate the whole crawlspace, but would like a more efficient floor insulation. What is the R value of the foam boards, and can I just fasten them to the bottoms of the floor joists? Would that trap moisture between the foam boards and the floors? If so, what about fastening foam boards against the floors between the floor joists?
Either way, it would trap moisture and also hide any unchecked mold or fungus growth occurring, eventually resulting in a massive rebuilding of your floor structure; unless you are located in a desert climate, of course. Moisture can also come from an unseen plumbing leak from above the floor that you would never know about. Remove the existing insulation and spend your time and money on insulating the crawlspace walls, vinyl covering the entire dirt floor, and including the closing up and insulating of all the vents to create a conditioned air space. The extra cost would be a dehumidifier, but you'd have some savings in your heating and cooling bills, plus possible tax credits for doing something to improve home energy efficiency. Then you wouldn't have to do that twice-yearly task of opening and closing vents, but you would have to clean the dehumidifier filter once a year; everybody should inspect their crawlspace once a year anyway.
I spoke with 3 different companies about this and ALL 3 said you should never insulate the floor joists... leave them open. Their reasoning was moisture being trapped but the main reason was a more even distribution of air and heat...more efficient i guess.
I laid vapor barrier on my walls and dirt floor. Can I put those foam boards over the wall vapor barrier, or do I have to do it under the vapor barrier like in the video?
I was told it goes against the walls, but can go after the vapor barrier if you want to come back later and add that. It means puncturing the barrier many times so you have to be sure to seal the punctures. Do the foam board first if you ever intend to do it at all.
No reply?? Lol. They said the gap from the foam to wood is to inspect for termites. That’s shady. Foam attracts termites and shouldn’t be placed within 3 feet of the ground. The gap is to keep the termites in the foam from reaching the wood. It’s not for inspectors. They made that crap up or lied.
You would be incorrect. It’s code. Check your state. I did when I got 5 quotes and all of them left a gap no matter what they were installing up the foundation walls. It’s easier to run your mouth than to educate yourself
Nobody is answering the original question here. Charles is asking why not spray a closed cell foam directly onto the subfloor where the r19 was, between the joists? Many of us don’t have sealed crawl spaces and none of the solutions in this video were good for unsealed.
@@youknow1334 But you don't seem to know why the code calls for the gap. It's simply to allow inspection for termite tunnels running up to access the wood of the house. If you cover that, no one will ever know that termites are eating away at your house. This isn't code in areas that don't get termites so check local codes.
Great video! My understanding is that foam board insulation isn't okay (from a fire resistance standpoint) in accessible crawl spaces. Seems like spray foam might also have the same problem since I'm not sure it's as fire resistant as fiberglass. How do you handle the fire resistance issue?
Some spray foams are actually more fire retardant than traditional insulation so that can be an added benefit. This does not apply to great stuff type spray cans. Some of these are VERY flammable.
Some spray foams have a fire resistance mixture in them or that can be applied with or after the application. Spray foam is very expensive and if not done right can lead to a huge loss. Not all crawl spaces have to be encapsulated. It can sometime be a cheaper option companies unlike the one I work for may not explain to you that your floor may be cooler( wood for sure) due to the dehu controlling the CS at 55. Also the fact that we all know cold air and hot air want to meet so with no insulation to stop the transfer guys who gets to handle that bill. YOU its You, lol. Also you have to replace the 20-30 dollar merc 11-13 filter in the dehu at least once a year and some people sell you a two piece dehu with a condensate pump when good WatchDog dehus can do it all for you and are just as compact. Hope this helps
@@vinniecrisante4920 It's good to have the pump outside the unit for separate maintenance, leaving the main unit alone. If inside, you have to deal with the main unit just to deal with the pump. It's also easier to replace the pump when only it is the problem, not the whole unit.
@@vinniecrisante4920 Also, hot and cold air do not want to meet; they may happen to meet all the time and what happens then? The cold air goes down and the hot goes up; they want to stay away from each other. The point is that, if we want to control an air space, we have to physically separate them, inside from outside. As for cold floors above, that might be an issue in colder climates, but of little concern in warmer climates. Remember, the ground (dirt) is around 50 degrees, so in cold winters the open ground is actually heating your floors relative to outdoors; it cools them in hot summers.
I just purchased rockwool insulation for the ceiling of my crawlspace. I live on a river and get a little water in my crawlspace. I also have open air vents that I open and close each spring/fall. The fiberglass insulation down there right now is starting to fall down. I have installed a lot of insulation and it looks like it was not cut right nor was it stapled up. However it does appear to look ok as far as thickness etc. So, my question is, should I put a plastic barrier up after insulating? My home is a 1950;s home and IDK how old the fiberglass insulation is so I was just going to remove it. Also, does the spray foam insulation come in a can form? I have only about 2 to 3 feet in height to crawl around down there. Its pretty tight.
How would you staple rockwool to the crawlspace ceiling? Is it backed with something? Id so, are you sure the backing is on the correct side of the installation? Do you have any kind of mold happening or high humidity in addition to the river water? If not, then if you ever did cover it all with a barrier, how would you ever know if you started having mold which can eventually rot out your flooring and the structure of your house? It would be a great place to trap humidity.
So I have a crawlspace with current insulation falling down. Assuming it’s not moldy if I want to replace that insulation is it best to just add new insulation and then I’d have a double layer or a bad idea? The other question is I don’t have 2 x 6 rafters. I have engineered rafters which are much taller, but obviously have lots of gaps in it because it just made it two by fours. It seemed like the insulation was put towards the bottom of the raft or not up against the floor. Is there a reason for that . I was thinking just add layers of insulation on top of what’s already there by pushing it up.
IF that was by basement I would caulk the gap between the sill plate and the block wall. I would also caulk all the seams in the band joist then put in mineral wool. Is that needed in a crawl space?
Great video John and Craig, question, if you have a open crawl space, how many inches of CLOSED CELL spray foam do you need between your floor joist to form a moisture barrier? Thank you in advance.
You have to spray the home to code for the area you live in, the foam if closed cell is a air sealing material so if applied right you would have no worries. A vapor barrier of code in your area in (NC) it is a 6 mil plastic, my company prefers to use a 10 mil. The barrier will help protect the foam and wood from the ground moisture but if you do not encapsulate it and leave it vented over time the foam my be damage due to the moisture from the vents. Hope this helps
I don't think that would form a complete moisture barrier and it would cover up any mold, fungus or rot happening in the flooring above and even in the joists, so you'd never see it. And it is near impossible to remove spray foam; I'd advise against it from all I have come to know.
Yes. Except: I encapsulated a year ago and have been very happy with it. I have a block foundation and sealed my all vents (by filling in the missing block on each) except one, which I had temporarily closed off with wood, "just in case." Turns out I needed to add an exhaust fan for radon remediation to create a slight negative air pressure in my living space. We are in Virginia where temps have ranged from +5 in December to 100 in July and the crawl space temp has never dropped below 59 nor gone above 79. My radon initially measured between 20 and 30 and now averages about 1.4. I use a dehumidifier so no mold issues. Encapsulation is well worth it in comfort, energy savings, and mold prevention. Plus, it's just a whole lot nicer if I have to get under my house - crawling on a sturdy sheet of plastic rather than dirt (creating dust!), so potentially I could it for storage more easily.
Yes, but you will need a way to deal with radon, moisture, etc depending on your locale. So you might reuse that entry for an air exchanger for instance.
@@pleskbruce The biggest stumbling block is how to afford the very high cost of encapsulation. Tell us how you accomplished that to see if it's something everyone should do. I'd do it; it makes good sense for many reasons. Where does the money come from for the average person, let alone a 75-year-old lady on small Social Security and not much savings? I'm too old to DIY like I used to. It's labor-intensive and absolutely must be done properly so the cost is justified for companies that do it. I can't afford it and there are no halfway measures to battle mold.
My home is a 1907 small, brick home in Denver, CO -- very dry and (can be) very cold in the winter. I have an uninsulated crawl space. It's sealed as well. Half the basement is the closed crawl space the other half is a basement that holds the furnace and water heater and storage. The main floor pine floors are chilly when it's very cold outside. I've read that R25 or R30 is best for fiberglass insulation in my region. What do you think about fiberglass versus the other two given the specs of my home? Thank you!
Mr. Crawl Space Medic, We're in the great cold State of Michigan and is highly considering insulating our roughly 500 sq ft addition/room on the rear of the home. It sits above a nearly 3 ft high uncovered dirt crawl space with two vents. No other insulation exists, nor does pipes exist here. This room offers freezing cold in the winter months. Now, there's 1 heat register, but of course, this room isn't containing heat. For clarification, would using closed cell spray foam (or) 2" inch foam board reflective insulation be useful with adding insulation to the floors boards with R-19 rolls?
Hello sorry he did respond but I will lol. I would add a product to the inside of the sub-floor (crawl space side) called prodex or a new one called triplex. I don't know to much yet on triplex but I do know its similar so, Predex is a reflective material with spray foam insulation properties, holds an R-value of 16 if you get it from the Pro-Dex company. Always trust the source. It can be applied in many ways some as simple as a staple gun. You can install the batt insulation after that and remeber wire supports to hold it in, I hope this helps
Ok iam late to the game. My home has a crawl space with fiberglass insulation between floor floor joist. Also my home has holes drilled into the concrete block for termite treatment. If you spray foam or put the foam board how does the termite guy access the holes in the block. Just wandering.
? We have a cabin, built new 18 years ago, I have a 4’ crawl space with concrete walls, in beginning we had problems with moisture on the gravel floor which did have plastic sheathing underneath, I had 2” spray foam put over entire gravel floor which took care of the moisture problem, I also have all my rim joist insulated and have 2” styrofoam sheets over the concrete walls on entire perimeter of the house. Our furnace and ductwork are down there also, which I have somewhat insulated also, I would like to know if I can add insulation between my floor joists throughout entire area? Some people told me no because of future moisture damage, but I think I have all that taken care of- I would appreciate your professional opinion- cabin is 1500 sf, at the Arkansas-Missouri boarder - thank You
With all you have done you have effectively extended the whole house's conditioned space to the crawlspace floor; there is no need to insulate the ceiling of the space any more than you would the ceiling of the first floor of a house from the second floor. I would question the gravel on top of the plastic sheeting with the spray foam on top to seal from moisture. If you have air vents open all around then you will get humidity in that space that can grow mold. Close them and get a dehumidifier to ensure optimum air control. If you don't want to do that, then there was no sense in insulating the walls of the crawlspace really.
Doing this now in my Century Home (stone walls and dirt floor). I decided to install 1/2" rigid insulation on the walls, tuct taped the seams and put down 6 mil VB on the dirt floor and ran the VB 12-16" up the front of the insulation and taped the seams. Now in the process of framing out with 2x4 (16" OC) then once I have encapsulated the area I am going to try to get the moisture under control (sitting at 80% now) with a dehumidifier. Once that is done I will finish with R14 Rockwool bats and VB then a subfloor. Clearance is around 5' and furnace is in there so going to use it as storage for my plastic totes.
Dirt is the insulator even that portion up against the crawlspace walls; at 50 degrees F. the earth is constantly emitting heat. In winter you want that heat; in summer it helps cool your house above. If you encapsulate, the only issue is humidity and air circulation unless you want to heat and cool the space for some reason like storage.
Vapor barrier. Don’t know the brand used here. Usually 12-20 millimeters thick depending on the substrate beneath. Some people add dimple mats for draining and longevity
Once it’s sealed, then any humidity which gets in the crawl has a harder time getting out. The dehu is mandatory for most climates once things are air sealed
I incapsulated my crawlspace and live in the north east. I have no insulation. now in there..its about 900 sq ft and 4 ft. I have asked different insulation companies what insulation to use. some say foam on the walls and ceiling, some say just bat insulation on the ceiling and some say use foam board on the walls and don't insulate the celing. Now I'm not sure what to do, who is correct. I have no moisture in my crawlspace, its completely dry. humidity is 24% in the winter and below 50% in the Summer.
What did you end up doing for insulation? I am in the Pacific NW and am encapsulating the crawl space now. 2" R13 foam board is installed on crawl space walls and working on the rim joists. Dehumidifier is hung and optimizing internal french drain/sump pump installation and cleaning out/sealing HVAC ducting before mastic/metal tape and re-insulation. Will have one crawl space vent opening to extract soil gases (radon not a big thing here) and will be closing off all the rest. I plan to leave out the floor joists without insulation and am hoping hardwoods above will not be cold in the winter.
If you have sealed all the vents and access doors and have plastic well-sealed all around the walls and across the dirt floor and no moisture issues, then you either insulate the crawlspace walls or the floor above, not both. As the plastic is in place, insulate the floor above, but watch for mold growth and you may have to remediate for radon gas if you test positive for that. If you insulate just the walls, you are making the encapsulated crawlspace a part of the inside of the house so no need to also insulate between the floor joists above in the same way you don't insulate the flooring between the first and second floor of a house.
My guess would be with something like Hilti DX 5 Foam Board Insulation Nail (can see the round disk on the wall over his right shoulder and another on the right edge of the video.
Can someone address the sinking effect of cellulose please? I had over 10 inches blown in several years ago. They even left the paper sticks showing how much was blown in. Now it's all level with the rafter tops where you walk. Total waste of money. At least bats won't disappear over time like cellulose does.
The “gap” is to keep the termites that get into to the foam from reaching the wood. Foam attracts termites. Not suppose to be sprayed within 3 feet from the ground.
As a termite technician my main problem with that spray foam insulation is that termites can still get behind it and travel through the cracks in a cinder block. It’s nice that there’s a gap to allow for an inspection, but if termites are spotted all of that material has to be removed, at least where the grade meets the foundation, to allow the soil to be treated.
@@breety_boy866 it sounds like you are describing closed cell spray foam on the exterior side of wall that touches soil, correct? Or does the interior foam application of a crawl space need to be removed to treat the soil?
You cannot convince me that spraying just side the walls will keep the floor insulated lol... bunch of BS. Does anyone here believe that you can insulate ground floor just with a thin plastic??? 😂😂😂😂
Question if you insulate floor framing with r13 insulation rolls you know the kind where they say paper to the people is it okay to board up insulation.
PRICELESS VIDEO!!
I've watched hours of videos. Learned tons on how and why.. but this simplifies it and actual footage is TRULY PRICELESS!! TY TY TY
It's so great that you talked about all of the issues that you can have and then don't tell anybody what to do about it
It's advertising for the company, Crawlspace Medic, so what you do about your issues is to contact them. The video showed us 3 ways to "do something about it" that they do. Encapsulation is not complicated; it's really quite simple, just hugely labor intensive so therefore it's very expensive. You can do it yourself; just buy the materials, install it all taped up, and put in a dehumidifier. Still, it's simple but difficult in a crawlspace. I would never do spray foam; it's highly toxic and near impossible to remove.
@@virginiamoss7045 I've researched a little bit & it seems like installing some some foam boards along your foundation/brick/etc is the easiest/best step to do. At least they are removable. Next is sealing up any vents with spray foam/foam board, although I wonder if rockwool+foam board would work as good?. Then installing at least 15mil, preferably 20 mil plastic for encapsulation, overlapped at minimum of 6 inches + all taped up. Leaving one vent at least and installing the dehumidifier. I don't have water flooding so I didn't mention any french draining. This doesn't seem too hard to DIY, just a ton of crawling lol. Of course the 1st step is to check humidity and mold levels, and do any remediation. The setup may differ a bit depending on where you live, I'm in the PNW.
@@alexeybalshoi2455 I'm at the opposite corner of the country from you in the southeast. Through my research, cold is not the issue; heat very much is, so insulating the crawlspace walls isn't paramount. In winter the dehumidifier will produce heat as will the ground which is always around 50 degrees F. In hot summer the crawlspace will still be naturally way cooler than the outside air even with the dehumidifier. Similarly, sealing the vents does not require heavy insulation, just sealing.
As for mold, I've concluded that there is no need to do anything to the existing fungus/mold unless it's already damaged the wooden structures. It's the dry air that the dehumidifier produces that will make the mold/fungus and it's spores go dormant. Treatments only do the same thing chemically and with continued humid air will come right back. So skip it and just do the sealing up and dehumidifying. You can soda blast the mold off to make the wood and joists look nice and new if money is no object for you, but even it, with a treatment, will not kill the fungal growth, just cause it to go dormant. Of course, if an occupant of the home has severe allergies from fungal sources, they are going to have to spend a ton of money to reduce the issue or move away to a more sterile abode that will also be a ton of money.
Great video! But you don't describe the floor!
On a concrete floor* would you install a plastic sheet vapor barrier before installing insulation?
I can fit 3'-wide insulation boards thru the opening into my crawl space, but boards are sold 4' wide. What are you using on the floor in the 3rd part of the video?
* (45 years old with no cracks, so not likely to develop cracks)
Thanks for sharing this great information
Can you please explain more about what a "sealed" crawl space is? In the lest segment of the video with the reflective foam board you state that is a sealed crawl space... but I see a vent to the outside right over your shoulder? Can you clarify? Thanks!
I'm not an expert, but from what I understand, you completely seal up a crawlspace, but also design a way to move air/moisture.. like maybe an air exchanger, dehumidifer, etc. Depends on locale.
Great Video! Great information.
What is best for a vented crawl space? WE live in NJ
What about an old home where there is very little room to work, and it's built on cornerstone with very little wall?
I have a similar issue, did you ever get an answer?
@@ckirk1597 nope. The only real solution is to have the house raised 9 to 12 inches and replumb, new steps and hope for the best.
@shannonherb2048 What did you do to resolve your issue because I'm in a similar situation?
What about spray foam on the ceiling?
That can trap moisture in the boards and cause rot damage. It also makes it very difficult to work on wiring or anything else that runs through the floors joists.
Not advised at all, and it's near impossible to remove if mold and wood fungus start growing there, not to mention kinds of work that might have to be done where the foam is in the way.
Patton Oswalt does insulation?
Why are the vents open in the 3rd part of the video? He said it was sealed correct??
I need to to insulate the ceiling of it
Which way would be the best way to insulate a crawlspace in North Louisiana Climate zone 3.
If it’s a Mobil house 3’ space between the bottom of floor joists and dirt. Also, it has vinyl skirting.
The R19 part you had mold right above your head.
Yeah, looked like the beginning of wood fungus and the insulation looked like it was beginning to "weep" with moisture like at my neighbor's house.
The fiberglass batts between my floor joists are sagging; not overtly wet, but I suspect some moisture transfer. I don't want to insulate the whole crawlspace, but would like a more efficient floor insulation. What is the R value of the foam boards, and can I just fasten them to the bottoms of the floor joists? Would that trap moisture between the foam boards and the floors? If so, what about fastening foam boards against the floors between the floor joists?
I'm curious of this exact same thing.
Either way, it would trap moisture and also hide any unchecked mold or fungus growth occurring, eventually resulting in a massive rebuilding of your floor structure; unless you are located in a desert climate, of course. Moisture can also come from an unseen plumbing leak from above the floor that you would never know about. Remove the existing insulation and spend your time and money on insulating the crawlspace walls, vinyl covering the entire dirt floor, and including the closing up and insulating of all the vents to create a conditioned air space. The extra cost would be a dehumidifier, but you'd have some savings in your heating and cooling bills, plus possible tax credits for doing something to improve home energy efficiency. Then you wouldn't have to do that twice-yearly task of opening and closing vents, but you would have to clean the dehumidifier filter once a year; everybody should inspect their crawlspace once a year anyway.
I spoke with 3 different companies about this and ALL 3 said you should never insulate the floor joists... leave them open. Their reasoning was moisture being trapped but the main reason was a more even distribution of air and heat...more efficient i guess.
Thanks
I laid vapor barrier on my walls and dirt floor. Can I put those foam boards over the wall vapor barrier, or do I have to do it under the vapor barrier like in the video?
I was told it goes against the walls, but can go after the vapor barrier if you want to come back later and add that. It means puncturing the barrier many times so you have to be sure to seal the punctures. Do the foam board first if you ever intend to do it at all.
Why did you not spray on wood in between floor joist
No reply?? Lol. They said the gap from the foam to wood is to inspect for termites. That’s shady. Foam attracts termites and shouldn’t be placed within 3 feet of the ground. The gap is to keep the termites in the foam from reaching the wood. It’s not for inspectors. They made that crap up or lied.
You would be incorrect. It’s code. Check your state. I did when I got 5 quotes and all of them left a gap no matter what they were installing up the foundation walls. It’s easier to run your mouth than to educate yourself
Nobody is answering the original question here. Charles is asking why not spray a closed cell foam directly onto the subfloor where the r19 was, between the joists? Many of us don’t have sealed crawl spaces and none of the solutions in this video were good for unsealed.
You can just not as efficient. If your going to re-do a crawl space make it encapsulated like most newer homes have moved on.
@@youknow1334 But you don't seem to know why the code calls for the gap. It's simply to allow inspection for termite tunnels running up to access the wood of the house. If you cover that, no one will ever know that termites are eating away at your house. This isn't code in areas that don't get termites so check local codes.
i live on the water in MD.
i have a crawl space. What would you reccomend?
Great video! My understanding is that foam board insulation isn't okay (from a fire resistance standpoint) in accessible crawl spaces. Seems like spray foam might also have the same problem since I'm not sure it's as fire resistant as fiberglass. How do you handle the fire resistance issue?
Some spray foams are actually more fire retardant than traditional insulation so that can be an added benefit. This does not apply to great stuff type spray cans. Some of these are VERY flammable.
Actually where I live the building code allows for foam board insulation in an accessible crawlspace however it needs to be covered with 1/2" drywall.
Some spray foams have a fire resistance mixture in them or that can be applied with or after the application. Spray foam is very expensive and if not done right can lead to a huge loss. Not all crawl spaces have to be encapsulated. It can sometime be a cheaper option companies unlike the one I work for may not explain to you that your floor may be cooler( wood for sure) due to the dehu controlling the CS at 55. Also the fact that we all know cold air and hot air want to meet so with no insulation to stop the transfer guys who gets to handle that bill. YOU its You, lol. Also you have to replace the 20-30 dollar merc 11-13 filter in the dehu at least once a year and some people sell you a two piece dehu with a condensate pump when good WatchDog dehus can do it all for you and are just as compact. Hope this helps
@@vinniecrisante4920 It's good to have the pump outside the unit for separate maintenance, leaving the main unit alone. If inside, you have to deal with the main unit just to deal with the pump. It's also easier to replace the pump when only it is the problem, not the whole unit.
@@vinniecrisante4920 Also, hot and cold air do not want to meet; they may happen to meet all the time and what happens then? The cold air goes down and the hot goes up; they want to stay away from each other. The point is that, if we want to control an air space, we have to physically separate them, inside from outside. As for cold floors above, that might be an issue in colder climates, but of little concern in warmer climates. Remember, the ground (dirt) is around 50 degrees, so in cold winters the open ground is actually heating your floors relative to outdoors; it cools them in hot summers.
I just purchased rockwool insulation for the ceiling of my crawlspace. I live on a river and get a little water in my crawlspace. I also have open air vents that I open and close each spring/fall. The fiberglass insulation down there right now is starting to fall down. I have installed a lot of insulation and it looks like it was not cut right nor was it stapled up. However it does appear to look ok as far as thickness etc. So, my question is, should I put a plastic barrier up after insulating? My home is a 1950;s home and IDK how old the fiberglass insulation is so I was just going to remove it. Also, does the spray foam insulation come in a can form? I have only about 2 to 3 feet in height to crawl around down there. Its pretty tight.
How would you staple rockwool to the crawlspace ceiling? Is it backed with something? Id so, are you sure the backing is on the correct side of the installation? Do you have any kind of mold happening or high humidity in addition to the river water? If not, then if you ever did cover it all with a barrier, how would you ever know if you started having mold which can eventually rot out your flooring and the structure of your house? It would be a great place to trap humidity.
So I have a crawlspace with current insulation falling down. Assuming it’s not moldy if I want to replace that insulation is it best to just add new insulation and then I’d have a double layer or a bad idea?
The other question is I don’t have 2 x 6 rafters. I have engineered rafters which are much taller, but obviously have lots of gaps in it because it just made it two by fours. It seemed like the insulation was put towards the bottom of the raft or not up against the floor. Is there a reason for that . I was thinking just add layers of insulation on top of what’s already there by pushing it up.
IF that was by basement I would caulk the gap between the sill plate and the block wall. I would also caulk all the seams in the band joist then put in mineral wool. Is that needed in a crawl space?
Depends on locale. What you do in Canada is very different from what you do in the southeastern US.
Great video John and Craig, question, if you have a open crawl space, how many inches of CLOSED CELL spray foam do you need between your floor joist to form a moisture barrier? Thank you in advance.
You have to spray the home to code for the area you live in, the foam if closed cell is a air sealing material so if applied right you would have no worries. A vapor barrier of code in your area in (NC) it is a 6 mil plastic, my company prefers to use a 10 mil. The barrier will help protect the foam and wood from the ground moisture but if you do not encapsulate it and leave it vented over time the foam my be damage due to the moisture from the vents. Hope this helps
I don't think that would form a complete moisture barrier and it would cover up any mold, fungus or rot happening in the flooring above and even in the joists, so you'd never see it. And it is near impossible to remove spray foam; I'd advise against it from all I have come to know.
What if it’s wet and there is a sump pump. What kind of insulation do you suggest?
Where are you located? Ever see floor joist spacing at 32" on center?
Should all the vents in the crawl space be sealed off when doing a full encapsulation?
Yes. Except: I encapsulated a year ago and have been very happy with it. I have a block foundation and sealed my all vents (by filling in the missing block on each) except one, which I had temporarily closed off with wood, "just in case." Turns out I needed to add an exhaust fan for radon remediation to create a slight negative air pressure in my living space. We are in Virginia where temps have ranged from +5 in December to 100 in July and the crawl space temp has never dropped below 59 nor gone above 79. My radon initially measured between 20 and 30 and now averages about 1.4. I use a dehumidifier so no mold issues. Encapsulation is well worth it in comfort, energy savings, and mold prevention. Plus, it's just a whole lot nicer if I have to get under my house - crawling on a sturdy sheet of plastic rather than dirt (creating dust!), so potentially I could it for storage more easily.
Yes, but you will need a way to deal with radon, moisture, etc depending on your locale. So you might reuse that entry for an air exchanger for instance.
@@pleskbruce The biggest stumbling block is how to afford the very high cost of encapsulation. Tell us how you accomplished that to see if it's something everyone should do. I'd do it; it makes good sense for many reasons. Where does the money come from for the average person, let alone a 75-year-old lady on small Social Security and not much savings? I'm too old to DIY like I used to. It's labor-intensive and absolutely must be done properly so the cost is justified for companies that do it. I can't afford it and there are no halfway measures to battle mold.
My home is a 1907 small, brick home in Denver, CO -- very dry and (can be) very cold in the winter. I have an uninsulated crawl space. It's sealed as well. Half the basement is the closed crawl space the other half is a basement that holds the furnace and water heater and storage. The main floor pine floors are chilly when it's very cold outside. I've read that R25 or R30 is best for fiberglass insulation in my region. What do you think about fiberglass versus the other two given the specs of my home? Thank you!
Mr. Crawl Space Medic, We're in the great cold State of Michigan and is highly considering insulating our roughly 500 sq ft addition/room on the rear of the home. It sits above a nearly 3 ft high uncovered dirt crawl space with two vents. No other insulation exists, nor does pipes exist here. This room offers freezing cold in the winter months. Now, there's 1 heat register, but of course, this room isn't containing heat. For clarification, would using closed cell spray foam (or) 2" inch foam board reflective insulation be useful with adding insulation to the floors boards with R-19 rolls?
Hello sorry he did respond but I will lol. I would add a product to the inside of the sub-floor (crawl space side) called prodex or a new one called triplex. I don't know to much yet on triplex but I do know its similar so, Predex is a reflective material with spray foam insulation properties, holds an R-value of 16 if you get it from the Pro-Dex company. Always trust the source. It can be applied in many ways some as simple as a staple gun. You can install the batt insulation after that and remeber wire supports to hold it in, I hope this helps
I heard only pros of foam and boards - any cons?
Ok iam late to the game. My home has a crawl space with fiberglass insulation between floor floor joist. Also my home has holes drilled into the concrete block for termite treatment. If you spray foam or put the foam board how does the termite guy access the holes in the block. Just wandering.
Good question. I was told it was not a problem, but not why.
By leaving that space, cold air will come right above to the subfloor from the sill and exposed foundation walls.
IT IS A CODE THING NATIONWIDE
@@johnchapdelaine9698 THAT DOESN’T MAKE IT THE CORRECT WAY TO INSTALL IT !!!!
Well then how would you do it mike?
@@shensley011 insulate the sills properly
@@Horrrrrribleboy garbage answer, what do you consider properly?
? We have a cabin, built new 18 years ago, I have a 4’ crawl space with concrete walls, in beginning we had problems with moisture on the gravel floor which did have plastic sheathing underneath, I had 2” spray foam put over entire gravel floor which took care of the moisture problem, I also have all my rim joist insulated and have 2” styrofoam sheets over the concrete walls on entire perimeter of the house.
Our furnace and ductwork are down there also, which I have somewhat insulated also, I would like to know if I can add insulation between my floor joists throughout entire area? Some people told me no because of future moisture damage, but I think I have all that taken care of- I would appreciate your professional opinion- cabin is 1500 sf, at the Arkansas-Missouri boarder - thank You
With all you have done you have effectively extended the whole house's conditioned space to the crawlspace floor; there is no need to insulate the ceiling of the space any more than you would the ceiling of the first floor of a house from the second floor. I would question the gravel on top of the plastic sheeting with the spray foam on top to seal from moisture. If you have air vents open all around then you will get humidity in that space that can grow mold. Close them and get a dehumidifier to ensure optimum air control. If you don't want to do that, then there was no sense in insulating the walls of the crawlspace really.
Best for stacked stone?
Doing this now in my Century Home (stone walls and dirt floor). I decided to install 1/2" rigid insulation on the walls, tuct taped the seams and put down 6 mil VB on the dirt floor and ran the VB 12-16" up the front of the insulation and taped the seams. Now in the process of framing out with 2x4 (16" OC) then once I have encapsulated the area I am going to try to get the moisture under control (sitting at 80% now) with a dehumidifier. Once that is done I will finish with R14 Rockwool bats and VB then a subfloor.
Clearance is around 5' and furnace is in there so going to use it as storage for my plastic totes.
So if I enclose the crawl space then I don’t have to insulate the sub floor ?
Dirt is the insulator even that portion up against the crawlspace walls; at 50 degrees F. the earth is constantly emitting heat. In winter you want that heat; in summer it helps cool your house above. If you encapsulate, the only issue is humidity and air circulation unless you want to heat and cool the space for some reason like storage.
@5:09 what's this white stuff on the floor called?
Vapor barrier. Don’t know the brand used here. Usually 12-20 millimeters thick depending on the substrate beneath. Some people add dimple mats for draining and longevity
Do you need the dehumidifier even after sealing the crawl space including the floors? Why?
Once it’s sealed, then any humidity which gets in the crawl has a harder time getting out. The dehu is mandatory for most climates once things are air sealed
I incapsulated my crawlspace and live in the north east. I have no insulation. now in there..its about 900 sq ft and 4 ft. I have asked different insulation companies what insulation to use. some say foam on the walls and ceiling, some say just bat insulation on the ceiling and some say use foam board on the walls and don't insulate the celing. Now I'm not sure what to do, who is correct. I have no moisture in my crawlspace, its completely dry. humidity is 24% in the winter and below 50% in the Summer.
What did you end up doing for insulation? I am in the Pacific NW and am encapsulating the crawl space now. 2" R13 foam board is installed on crawl space walls and working on the rim joists. Dehumidifier is hung and optimizing internal french drain/sump pump installation and cleaning out/sealing HVAC ducting before mastic/metal tape and re-insulation. Will have one crawl space vent opening to extract soil gases (radon not a big thing here) and will be closing off all the rest. I plan to leave out the floor joists without insulation and am hoping hardwoods above will not be cold in the winter.
If you have sealed all the vents and access doors and have plastic well-sealed all around the walls and across the dirt floor and no moisture issues, then you either insulate the crawlspace walls or the floor above, not both. As the plastic is in place, insulate the floor above, but watch for mold growth and you may have to remediate for radon gas if you test positive for that. If you insulate just the walls, you are making the encapsulated crawlspace a part of the inside of the house so no need to also insulate between the floor joists above in the same way you don't insulate the flooring between the first and second floor of a house.
My sister bought a home with a crawlspace and her home is always freezing.
How did you affix the reflective foam board to the crawl space walls? What is the thickness and brand of the foam board?
My guess would be with something like Hilti DX 5 Foam Board Insulation Nail (can see the round disk on the wall over his right shoulder and another on the right edge of the video.
Dude said they were gonna show some bad insulation...never saw it
fiberglass in between the joists is usually a bad idea
How to insulate a vented crawl space?
can you install the foam board on the joist over the r19 insulation?
yes
Did not spray foam around the piers and did not tape the seams on the form boards. 😳
Can someone address the sinking effect of cellulose please? I had over 10 inches blown in several years ago. They even left the paper sticks showing how much was blown in. Now it's all level with the rafter tops where you walk. Total waste of money. At least bats won't disappear over time like cellulose does.
The “gap” is to keep the termites that get into to the foam from reaching the wood. Foam attracts termites. Not suppose to be sprayed within 3 feet from the ground.
Foam does not attract termites. The "gap" is there to allow for termite inspection access.
As a termite technician my main problem with that spray foam insulation is that termites can still get behind it and travel through the cracks in a cinder block. It’s nice that there’s a gap to allow for an inspection, but if termites are spotted all of that material has to be removed, at least where the grade meets the foundation, to allow the soil to be treated.
@@breety_boy866 it sounds like you are describing closed cell spray foam on the exterior side of wall that touches soil, correct? Or does the interior foam application of a crawl space need to be removed to treat the soil?
Why not just leave the inspection gap at the bottom where it's usually below grade and wouldn't adversely impact the insulation as much?
i see sunlight
So don’t insulate my floors in Maine?
I am, lol
Go under geoy
You cannot convince me that spraying just side the walls will keep the floor insulated lol... bunch of BS. Does anyone here believe that you can insulate ground floor just with a thin plastic??? 😂😂😂😂
If the rim joist isn't insulated then the spray foam on the foundation wall is pretty much a waste of money and useless.
Question if you insulate floor framing with r13 insulation rolls you know the kind where they say paper to the people is it okay to board up insulation.
He's right about rim joists.
@@dionfrutos7997 Wanna rewrite that so it makes sense?
If the rim joist is insulated it will rot it, the sill plate, the sub floor, the substrate on the walls, and the floor joist..