Hey, if it works it works. I'm getting quite fond of the Chinese industrial components. Very functional and absolutely fine for less critical applications.
+bigclivedotcom Yep. I'm probably mostly overreacting to some of the CNCzone threads about this thing I read, where half the comments are just people shitting on china.
+Connor Wolf Just for reference, I saw an interesting approach to a braking resistor on a CNC machine. A radiant ring spiral cooker element in a perforated metal enclosure. Cheap and super high power.
+Connor Wolf Loving the mass of anti-tracking slots. This hints at a super mass-produced device that has had all the bugs ironed out through experience. The six pin IGBT drivers are new to me. Liking it so far. More so if they'd used lead solder....
+bigclivedotcom I actually have a spool of toaster nichrome heater wire, I've been thinking about winding my own high-power resistor thing. Really, though, I can buy some proper power resistors for ~$30, so that's probably what I'm going to wind up doing. That way I don't have to worry about issues with the heater resistance changing as it heats up.
I have 8 of these Huanyang VFDs in my shop (Drill press, WW lathe, Bandsaw, belt sander, 3 grinders and a spare), plus I have 3 other VFDs. They're not the fanciest VFD but they are fair value for money.
One website I visited recently mentioned that the electrolytic caps should be allowed to reform if the device had been sitting for an extended period- by letting it sit for an hour while plugged in and turned on but with no load.
I run a number of these. The V2.0 main board no longer has footprints for the braking components, that room is taken up by the second current sensor (you only ever need two) on the V2 and the P+ an PR terminals are kind of pointless. I've upgraded an earlier board with the braking components and it works well. The missing opto-couplers are for additional auxillary outputs and I've retrofitted them to one of my machines where I have to interlock tow VFDs. The earlier CPU boards have room for a second relay, which was nice. You can program one of the aux outputs to be active when braking, so if you tapped off the DC bus negative to PR, you could then connect up and control an external braking circuit.
I have heard that the ones without the braking component footprints are counterfeit. I recently bought one, it had the place for the braking components
Great video and good narration. I purchased a 3hp 220v single phase to 3 phase (Hyd40223b model) from a seller on aliexpress. It worked for about 10 minutes, before it blew up. I mean blew up with a bang. Taking it apart, I saw that the upper and lower IGBT had actually cratered with the force of the explosion. There were burn marks on the circuit board, and black carbon coating the inside of the case. The part I'm talking about is KDG20N120H1. Supposedly it's rated IGBT rated at 1200V 20A. My guess is the tolerances are a lot lower. I contacted the seller, and he refused to refund, and aliexpress refused to help. What a horror show. I bought some replacement infenion technologies IGBT from Digi-key in the US. Smaller, but I'm pretty damn sure they're a lot better quality than what was onboard. If I can't get it working, I'll just look for a good 3hp Hitachi VFD. More money, but I'm 100% it's of better quality.
I'd expect them to have multiple power variants for every enclosure. Imho it would not make sense to manufacture molds for 20 sizes just to make it fit optimally. Besides couple cm extra room won't harm anything, cools a bit better :-)
Not a bad low cost drive, might look at getting some to replace the T-verter ones, as the front panel is also relocatable. Just be aware that that wiring to the panel might be at mains potential, as it is connected to the negative rectified incoming bus. Control inputs and outputs are optoisolated and have a separate 19-25V supply from that main SMPS inside. Micro is an 8051 device with a 3 phase H bridge drive on it, I have one with a big hole blown in it because the remote panel shorted out to the grounded chassis of the panel. Separate output devices instead of the single potted 6 IGBT devices. Those optos are likely integrated high side drivers, with the passives around them to make the separate high side power supplies for the upper devices, the lower ones are easy to supply from a single supply. Size is an industry standard, 2 sizes for drives up to 4kW, a small case for sub 1HP and a large case for over, then for over 4kw they get a lot bigger but the same height.
+SeanBZA The optos are indeed integrated gate driver devices. They're P701 isolated gate drivers - toshiba.semicon-storage.com/info/docget.jsp?did=6027&prodName=TLP701H The MCU is a Renesas 16 bit thing - www.farnell.com/datasheets/17451.pdf The front panel and most of the IO is actually isolated, as far as I can follow the traces.
Hi Do you know what kind of zener diodes D45-D55 are? I have to replace them and can't find the schematic of this inverter. For me, the PC4 optocoupler is P701. The same inverter, 2.2kW on 220V.
Hi, thanks for sharing, just did the same with a 3kW 220V version, interestingly mine did not have the heatsink covered in plastic, so you could touch live parts between the capacitors. I took the IGBTs off the heat sink and they turned out to be reasonably sized (1200V/25A cont), so i am quite impressed, except that there is absolutely no EMI filtering at all, so this thing is going to be dirty. I am a radio ham and therefore rather picky about electrical noise
Hey I realize this is an old video but I am hoping you can help me. I set the setting incorrectly on the VFD and it tripped the breaker - started smoking. I unplugged it, left it for a few days, decided to plug it back in to see what component was smoking. To my surprise it worked again! I used the factory reset setting, but it did NOT reset it. So when trying to use the knob it immediately did the same thing. I have not been able to get it to turn back on (sat for a few more days). Taking it apart and trying to figure things out, that green resistor next to the relay will heat up a lot very quickly and never turn on. Any input on this? I already ordered a new VFD for a 2.2kw spindle I ordered instead, but I would like to be able to repair this one if possible. Thanks.
Chinese products are usually cheap and mostly work pretty well, if you do your research and go into the thing with your eyes open. How's that for a blanket remark?
Conner, I have this VFD. I ran into a problem yesterday. I was cutting a couple wood brackets for my kayaks. When the operation was within 6" of finishing the cuts, the spindle shutdown. It coasted long enough for the CNC to finish the cut. Now the spindle will not restart. The spindle did not get hot. I read there is a fuse that when blown the spindle shuts down. I can not find a fuse anywhere. Do you have any suggestions. Steve Webb
does anyone know the parameters of the three blue capacitors near to the R S T terminal block? After connecting to the 3-phase line, one of them burned down, despite the fact that according to the manual it is possible to choose either a single-phase or three-phase power supply. thanks
Congratulations for the video! Top!!! I have a HY0223B inverter, after 2 years it started to give problems. With intermittent operation, it seems to be in the power part. It keeps turning on and off, until it stopped and I couldn't turn it on. Can someone help me?
Man I wish I knew as much as you about circuits / electronics. I'm trying to teach myself currently. I want to be more comfortable with these sort of things. I recently picked up the HY 1.5kw + .8kw spindle. 110v version.
Hi, I bought a HY01D523B driver and unfortunately I can't program it because the HMI key line (JOG, ↑, PRGM) doesn't work. All other keys, led and display work. The driver turns on and off. Checking the HMI connection cable, I noticed that when the cable is pressed into the connector, they are shorted from two to two cable wires. This is normal? Could you send HMI's electronic communication circuit?
Surprised they didn't use one of the 'off the shelf' IGBT/motor driver modules, like an Infineon BSM15GP120 instead of discreet outputs... I've taken apart some Weg VFDs of similar capacity that use the module, and it helps decrease the overall size of the drive... Kind of a dated looking design, but still looks fairly decent. Looks like the same or similar drive to what 'This Old Tony' used on his CNC router build...
+icesoft1 I'd assume that using discrete IGBTs is a *lot* cheaper. A single BSM15GP120 is $67.49 in 100 quantities. That's literally half the cost of the entire VFD. My assumption is that they're doing something common for Chinese products, and going with a cheaper design with more discretes, because a more complicated assembly is cheaper then more integrated/recent components.
Hi everyone. I have the huyang model. 5.5KW 5500w 7.6HP 25A 220V Vfd . I have it on a 7 hp motor. The thing is that i burnt 2 already. I work in Belize hence lot's of humidity. All connections are tied, no broken wire either. Spikes, yes but nothing crazy. Question: do you think humidity could cause repeat failure ( average life span has been 10 months) suggestions if any are WELCOME. Thanks
Very useful and thorough explanation. Thank you. I connected my vfd to 3 phase 380 V and soon realized that it is meant for 3 phase 220 V instead. I heard a bang, No smoke, however. Can I repair it? What component was damaged, hopefully only one?
Can you tell me where is the dc bus on the power board? I have a Delta vfd015m21a, which was dunked in IRMA; I want to test the vector drive and output inverter resistance, but I can only find a prong with a "+" next to it...?
I have a similar one for my CNC machine (800w spindle) and my only complaint is that the fan rattles around in the top compartment (it's just held in by the plastic piece which clips in). A bit of tape fixed that though ;)
The internal electrics are amazing, my complaint is the rubbish power terminals, too small, too close together and at the bottom of a deep dark hole, just pants.
Very nice video, very informative. FYI, when I have to read things like that through openings I find it is useful to photograph them from several angles with my phone and then enlarge them ( but I am an old guy with bad vision).
i own one of it very similar except that mine is 110VAC input, im wondering how different the value of the green resistor (330 ohms 6w) could be, it turns out the mine one burned out and the values are no longer visibible. i appreciate any help. Thanks
I have one of these and it failed. Whenever power is applied it trips the whole house breaker. I had a GE afMini vfd with a varistor problem once that shorted only under power. Removing that varistor fixed the problem. No such luck on this one though. Next I guess I'll look at the rectifier. All of the rectifiers I have ever used had four leads. This one has five. A ground lead?
Well it turns out the rectifier for the R power input was shorted. I re-soldered the varistors and used the S and T power inputs instead. Now it powers up and doesn't trip the house breaker. Thanks for the video. Having a basic tour of the device encouraged me to attempt the repair.
Brkaing Resistor? Must be for the Heavy Burtation for when you have a very darrison load. Not bad documentation though... You get a good feeling when the documentation has more than two pages.
I actually had to read every damn line of that book today. Had to program the whole thing, still having some deceleration overload DC voltage issues. Learned a lot.
Got mine today for a HY03D011B. 3KW 110V unit. Page count is now 67 pages with the last page for notes. And the seller also included another page of notes on programing it.
If BigClive says you're a smart dude, these knuckleheads giving you shit about the country that makes the majority of the world's consumer goods can kick rocks. Congrats on your success!
Nice tear down and commentary. One note, I wouldn't put ANY weight in 105C no-name Chinese capacitors. They basically print whatever they want on the labels as long as they'll pass basic incoming inspection. I've seen brand name 85C caps last 20 years in hot environments and have had Chinese 105C caps fail in PC motherboards and power supplies in one year at similar temps. Worse, there are also the clone knock off caps that appear to be name brand but are fake. Chinese parts suppliers will do anything to make a quick buck.
Is the problem with people complaining about chinese products that bad lately that you have to put up an annotation at the beginning? Anyways, looks pretty well engineered, shame about the soldering. Something you didnt remark was that they put the heatsink the right way around, something not a lot of people do (often they blow straight onto the heatsink topdown, which reduces flow severely). The only real mistake i see is that the large caps are on the wrong side of the heatsink (assuming the fan blows air over the heatsink, if it is sucking air through the case than that is good design as well). By the way, the sharp angles on the traces you are talking about at 19:30 has another disadvantage, the traces can also peel during PCB manufacturing, but like you say, not really a problem with most PCB houses.
+tHaH4x0r It's more that the CNCZone.net thread about these things was probably 50% people shitting on them because they're chinese without ever having tested them. I may be overreacting. The fan sucks air through the case, and blows it out the top (the end with the fan), e.g. the "correct" way to keep the caps as low temperature as possible.
+Connor Wolf Ah so thats why, i am not into the CNC scene or anything so i didnt know. Most people dont really realize that most of the stuff they use comes from china, just with a brand label on top of it. And if it indeed sucks the air through the case this unit looks pretty decent, if they fixed their soldering you'd have an A quality VFD me thinks.
+David Springs That does indeed look like the part. It also has a timer peripherals capable of generating 3-phase PWM outputs. Interestingly, this is the FLASH program model. I wonder if it'd be possible to dump the flash, and develop a custom firmware for it? I don't know if it made the video, but the keypad has (IIRC) a 8051 MCU in it, and I think it talks to the main MCU over a serial link of some sort. I didn't investigate too closely.
Wow, they highly improved the manual. A couple of years ago you got a barely readable photocopy of a chinglish manual typeset in Courier. So that's definite progress. I hate the firmware with a passion. Utter crap.
+telecrate For the ridiculous number of features the thing has, I think the firmware does OK. It definitely suffers from "lets add ALL THE FEATURES"-itus. I think they probably just kept adding shit to the firmware until they ran out of flash space on the MCU, or something. It slices! It Dices! It runs an entire single-axis CNC machine! Buuuuuut wait, there's MOAR.....
Thank you for your attempt to contribute to the development of humanity with a fair honest review :-) Overall do you think it's good value for money and do you think it could be an advantage having some extra space inside for airflow considering it's a high power device that could be running for many hours?
+Coolkeys2009 The extra space inside is probably because, as other people have commented, that they have one housing size they use for multiple products, and the higher power versions might use the space more fully.
You get what you pa.... JUST KIDDING :P I often buy cheap Chinese stuff, take them apart and add better parts, sometimes it works out, sometimes not, either way it's entertaining :P
Mack Everhart I don't have any experience with these particular VFDs, but I'd check all parameters related to current. Check for parameters related to current limits etc. I'd also use a clamp meter to verify the current reading i.e. make sure the current that the VFD is showing is indeed correct.
+Connor Wolf the only difference (other then the inside) is that it requires an external heatsync. I have the 20HP models. They are pretty nice with an encoder knob.
+CreativeType I picked up a 10 turn pot to use for speed control. After that, I just need to figure out how to measure the RPM and display it somewhere accessible. I'd *like* to eventually put the electronics cabinet door back on, so looking at the VFD front-panel at that point would be somewhat annoying. The RPM readout is complicated by the fact that it has two gearing modes. I've been thinking of using some of those cheap LED tachometers (~$8 a pop from amazon), and having two different encoder disks or similar attached to the drive system somewhere. One with the number of tabs that produces the correct readout in high-gear, and one with the right number of tabs for low-gear. Realistically, I'll probably wind up just using a AVR.
Connor Wolf Yeah, I'd imagine either one of those would work. I feel like the optical encoder would be the easiest but you'd need to keep it away from dust/ etc.
I don't mind cheap Chinese if its function. And I don't bitch about the Chinglish either, because if they work with you, you can get it all figured out, especially with good diagrams. As with American products or any other, its about customer service. Have several of these, right now trying to get a 4 KW working on a 5hp motor with a resistor with dynamic braking . So far so good. Nice video.
Probably a 3 phase motor on the compressor and no 3 phase supply, so single to 3 phase VFD. Using a VFD also means the motor can be ramp started to reduce the starting load.
"But a single to three phase VFD gives out only single phase voltage" That doesn't make sense. A single to 3 phase VFD gives a 3 phase output. I have a 3 HP 3 phase compressor running from a single to 3 phase VFD, from a single phase supply, and it works perfectly.
Yes, I should have clarified, the motor to be driven from the VFD, must be of the dual voltage type. Then it can be re-connected in the terminal box to run on 230 volts. A 415 volt 3 phase motor will run very poorly, if at all, on 230 volts.
Question: How did you do that white rectangle for making the chip details more visible in the video? Also, what video editing software do you use? Thanks!
I have a 10HP 7.5KW 34Amp one of these, I am using it with a 7.5 HP, 230 volt, 17.34 amp, 3510 rpm motor. It spools up to speed, but when I put a load on it, it faults out (E.OC.A). It shows that it is using 6.6 amps when I put the load on, I don't think that the amps are going up to the 34 amp rating. Can anybody help me with this problem???
Good video, although you need to work on your cinematography and stunts. I could easily see traces of the greenscreen when the guy jumped out of the helicopter. Good last 10 mins though... everyone likes happy endings.
Chingrish not clange wery much in thlee years. ;-) Funny thing about it is that on ebay, they don't even get their name right on every one of their own pictures.
Did you really opened the VFD just to find that they are not made with pink lace inside. If you wish, you can get OEM for adequate price, say 10000$. Device is as whole constructed to be cheap and this is done better than in most western. Btw. the remnant of 'flux' is anti-corona coating. Just to try with all means to find something to argue upon (mediocre soldering) is sign of bad prejudice.
I just scored a deal on a Enco 111-1450 lathe, it's Chinese, oh well, it is a heavy duty SOB. The previous owner added a nice leeson inverter grade 5.5hp 4kw motor. I was going to build a RPC for it but I think I'll go with one of these Chinese VFD's instead. Just imagen, a Chinese lathe and a Chinese VFD? Would it work or will it be a Chicom overload and simple explode? or maybe just refuse to start? Its a home machine shop so until I figure out how to make some $$ I'll need to make do with this level of equipment. I will just need to figure out how to interface the VFD with the lathe controls. Also, would this VFD need to be mounted in an enclosure? Here we go, a lathe with Chinese VFD interfaced to work just like I need. th-cam.com/video/XR6R8pavtFA/w-d-xo.html Thanks youtube.
Hello, i have two 1.5kw and 2.2kw Huan Yang and both of them run into some problens with different issues. The first one the 2.2kw when it powers up, it flashes the firmware revision, as it normally does, but never moves on, it just keeps on flashing, it doesn't let you access in the menu. The second one the 1.5kw it powers up, it flashes the firmware revision, moves to the main menu but when i try to change the menu settings it just doesnt storage in memory my settings at all. I've tried the power stage on another identical inverter and it works fine, so my guess is that the control stage is at fault. Since the inverter is out of warranty, is this repairable? Are there any spare parts on the market like the control circuit board? Looking forward for your responce Best Regards Alex My mail is:Alexpalios@yahoo.gr
I actually think it's quite overengineered and could be done a lot simpler. And try not to try to appear smart by repeating dave jones' mistakes of ragging on chinese stuff no matter what and bs like movs and cutouts are all important. In reality a good design would have neither.
+Dan Frederiksen What? I think it's fine, and am happy with it, even though it's chinese. *I* was complaining people rag on chinese products just because their chinese. Also, cutouts are very important if you're space constrained. Sure, if you have infinite PCB space, they're not needed, but they allow you to pack a LOT more into the same space by increasing the effective creepage distance between parts, and therefore reducing the absolute inter-trace distance. MOVs can also be important, depending on the context. Admittedly, they're kind of cheap, but they have their purposes, and some circuits *do* indeed *require* them.
+Dan Frederiksen You honestly think he does that in this review? Dave indeed has the tendency to either glorify something from a well known brand, and nitpick on every little detail on chinese products, but i dont think connor does that at all. All his remarks where fair, and cutouts and movs do indeed point at the fact that they thought about safety whilst designing this unit, which is always a good thing.
+tHaH4x0r if they do everything right they are deemed 'not completely useless'. But it might ironically be because he's afraid of judgment from others who want to hate on chinese products. But that's just no excuse. Judge dispassionately. Fearless of the ire of idiots.
+Dan Frederiksen You seem to be misinterpreting 'not completely useless'. *I'm quite happy with this VFD*. Basically, I'm just not particularly effusive about **ANYTHING**. "Not completely useless" is pretty decent praise in this context.
Hey, if it works it works. I'm getting quite fond of the Chinese industrial components. Very functional and absolutely fine for less critical applications.
+bigclivedotcom Yep.
I'm probably mostly overreacting to some of the CNCzone threads about this thing I read, where half the comments are just people shitting on china.
+Connor Wolf Just for reference, I saw an interesting approach to a braking resistor on a CNC machine. A radiant ring spiral cooker element in a perforated metal enclosure. Cheap and super high power.
+Connor Wolf Loving the mass of anti-tracking slots. This hints at a super mass-produced device that has had all the bugs ironed out through experience. The six pin IGBT drivers are new to me. Liking it so far. More so if they'd used lead solder....
+bigclivedotcom I actually have a spool of toaster nichrome heater wire, I've been thinking about winding my own high-power resistor thing.
Really, though, I can buy some proper power resistors for ~$30, so that's probably what I'm going to wind up doing. That way I don't have to worry about issues with the heater resistance changing as it heats up.
+Connor Wolf What sort of resistance do they specify? If it was close to a typical cooker ring my temptation would be to use it as a cup warmer. :)
I have 8 of these Huanyang VFDs in my shop (Drill press, WW lathe, Bandsaw, belt sander, 3 grinders and a spare), plus I have 3 other VFDs. They're not the fanciest VFD but they are fair value for money.
One website I visited recently mentioned that the electrolytic caps should be allowed to reform if the device had been sitting for an extended period- by letting it sit for an hour while plugged in and turned on but with no load.
I run a number of these. The V2.0 main board no longer has footprints for the braking components, that room is taken up by the second current sensor (you only ever need two) on the V2 and the P+ an PR terminals are kind of pointless. I've upgraded an earlier board with the braking components and it works well. The missing opto-couplers are for additional auxillary outputs and I've retrofitted them to one of my machines where I have to interlock tow VFDs. The earlier CPU boards have room for a second relay, which was nice. You can program one of the aux outputs to be active when braking, so if you tapped off the DC bus negative to PR, you could then connect up and control an external braking circuit.
I have heard that the ones without the braking component footprints are counterfeit. I recently bought one, it had the place for the braking components
Not being a tech geek, it is fun to watch Connor talk about these things. I'm not very biased. I'm only his dad...
Great video and good narration. I purchased a 3hp 220v single phase to 3 phase (Hyd40223b model) from a seller on aliexpress. It worked for about 10 minutes, before it blew up. I mean blew up with a bang. Taking it apart, I saw that the upper and lower IGBT had actually cratered with the force of the explosion. There were burn marks on the circuit board, and black carbon coating the inside of the case. The part I'm talking about is KDG20N120H1. Supposedly it's rated IGBT rated at 1200V 20A. My guess is the tolerances are a lot lower. I contacted the seller, and he refused to refund, and aliexpress refused to help. What a horror show. I bought some replacement infenion technologies IGBT from Digi-key in the US. Smaller, but I'm pretty damn sure they're a lot better quality than what was onboard. If I can't get it working, I'll just look for a good 3hp Hitachi VFD. More money, but I'm 100% it's of better quality.
You did a great job reviewing this device hardware. Thanks
I'd expect them to have multiple power variants for every enclosure. Imho it would not make sense to manufacture molds for 20 sizes just to make it fit optimally. Besides couple cm extra room won't harm anything, cools a bit better :-)
Not a bad low cost drive, might look at getting some to replace the T-verter ones, as the front panel is also relocatable. Just be aware that that wiring to the panel might be at mains potential, as it is connected to the negative rectified incoming bus. Control inputs and outputs are optoisolated and have a separate 19-25V supply from that main SMPS inside. Micro is an 8051 device with a 3 phase H bridge drive on it, I have one with a big hole blown in it because the remote panel shorted out to the grounded chassis of the panel.
Separate output devices instead of the single potted 6 IGBT devices. Those optos are likely integrated high side drivers, with the passives around them to make the separate high side power supplies for the upper devices, the lower ones are easy to supply from a single supply.
Size is an industry standard, 2 sizes for drives up to 4kW, a small case for sub 1HP and a large case for over, then for over 4kw they get a lot bigger but the same height.
+SeanBZA
The optos are indeed integrated gate driver devices. They're P701 isolated gate drivers - toshiba.semicon-storage.com/info/docget.jsp?did=6027&prodName=TLP701H
The MCU is a Renesas 16 bit thing - www.farnell.com/datasheets/17451.pdf
The front panel and most of the IO is actually isolated, as far as I can follow the traces.
That "X-Ray filter" you used on the shift register and op-amp? Pretty awesome, lol. How did you do that?!
Hi
Do you know what kind of zener diodes D45-D55 are? I have to replace them and can't find the schematic of this inverter. For me, the PC4 optocoupler is P701. The same inverter, 2.2kW on 220V.
Hi, thanks for sharing, just did the same with a 3kW 220V version, interestingly mine did not have the heatsink covered in plastic, so you could touch live parts between the capacitors. I took the IGBTs off the heat sink and they turned out to be reasonably sized
(1200V/25A cont), so i am quite impressed, except that there is absolutely no EMI filtering at all, so this thing is going to be dirty.
I am a radio ham and therefore rather picky about electrical noise
Hey I realize this is an old video but I am hoping you can help me. I set the setting incorrectly on the VFD and it tripped the breaker - started smoking. I unplugged it, left it for a few days, decided to plug it back in to see what component was smoking. To my surprise it worked again! I used the factory reset setting, but it did NOT reset it. So when trying to use the knob it immediately did the same thing. I have not been able to get it to turn back on (sat for a few more days).
Taking it apart and trying to figure things out, that green resistor next to the relay will heat up a lot very quickly and never turn on.
Any input on this? I already ordered a new VFD for a 2.2kw spindle I ordered instead, but I would like to be able to repair this one if possible. Thanks.
Chinese products are usually cheap and mostly work pretty well, if you do your research and go into the thing with your eyes open.
How's that for a blanket remark?
+skonkfactory Noooooes! You've ruined everything forevarrrrr!!!111one!
Conner, I have this VFD. I ran into a problem yesterday. I was cutting a couple wood brackets for my kayaks. When the operation was within 6" of finishing the cuts, the spindle shutdown. It coasted long enough for the CNC to finish the cut. Now the spindle will not restart. The spindle did not get hot. I read there is a fuse that when blown the spindle shuts down. I can not find a fuse anywhere. Do you have any suggestions. Steve Webb
i use the same vfd , never got a problem , works fine
does anyone know the parameters of the three blue capacitors near to the R S T terminal block? After connecting to the 3-phase line, one of them burned down, despite the fact that according to the manual it is possible to choose either a single-phase or three-phase power supply. thanks
Congratulations for the video! Top!!! I have a HY0223B inverter, after 2 years it started to give problems. With intermittent operation, it seems to be in the power part. It keeps turning on and off, until it stopped and I couldn't turn it on. Can someone help me?
How did you do this BW filter? And what was written on chip at 9:50-10:00?
Man I wish I knew as much as you about circuits / electronics. I'm trying to teach myself currently. I want to be more comfortable with these sort of things. I recently picked up the HY 1.5kw + .8kw spindle. 110v version.
Hi, I bought a HY01D523B driver and unfortunately I can't program it because the HMI key line (JOG, ↑, PRGM) doesn't work. All other keys, led and display work. The driver turns on and off. Checking the HMI connection cable, I noticed that when the cable is pressed into the connector, they are shorted from two to two cable wires. This is normal? Could you send HMI's electronic communication circuit?
I guess the two Pin TO220 package is a diode to measure the temperature in there.
Surprised they didn't use one of the 'off the shelf' IGBT/motor driver modules, like an Infineon BSM15GP120 instead of discreet outputs... I've taken apart some Weg VFDs of similar capacity that use the module, and it helps decrease the overall size of the drive... Kind of a dated looking design, but still looks fairly decent. Looks like the same or similar drive to what 'This Old Tony' used on his CNC router build...
+icesoft1 I'd assume that using discrete IGBTs is a *lot* cheaper. A single BSM15GP120 is $67.49 in 100 quantities. That's literally half the cost of the entire VFD.
My assumption is that they're doing something common for Chinese products, and going with a cheaper design with more discretes, because a more complicated assembly is cheaper then more integrated/recent components.
Hi everyone. I have the huyang model. 5.5KW 5500w 7.6HP 25A 220V Vfd . I have it on a 7 hp motor. The thing is that i burnt 2 already. I work in Belize hence lot's of humidity. All connections are tied, no broken wire either. Spikes, yes but nothing crazy. Question: do you think humidity could cause repeat failure ( average life span has been 10 months) suggestions if any are WELCOME. Thanks
Very useful and thorough explanation. Thank you. I connected my vfd to 3 phase 380 V and soon realized that it is meant for 3 phase 220 V instead. I heard a bang, No smoke, however. Can I repair it? What component was damaged, hopefully only one?
Can you tell me where is the dc bus on the power board? I have a Delta vfd015m21a, which was dunked in IRMA; I want to test the vector drive and output inverter resistance, but I can only find a prong with a "+" next to it...?
I have a similar one for my CNC machine (800w spindle) and my only complaint is that the fan rattles around in the top compartment (it's just held in by the plastic piece which clips in). A bit of tape fixed that though ;)
+MetalPhreakAU Huh. They've either fixed that on mine, or it's a different housing mould.
The internal electrics are amazing, my complaint is the rubbish power terminals, too small, too close together and at the bottom of a deep dark hole, just pants.
i'll vouch for that.
Very nice video, very informative. FYI, when I have to read things like that through openings I find it is useful to photograph them from several angles with my phone and then enlarge them ( but I am an old guy with bad vision).
It would be awesome to see a programming tutorial of this VFD
i own one of it very similar except that mine is 110VAC input, im wondering how different the value of the green resistor (330 ohms 6w) could be, it turns out the mine one burned out and the values are no longer visibible. i appreciate any help. Thanks
What software are you using at ~9:35 to process that section of video to get the part numbers? it's very interesting and looks useful
+Jonathan Haller It's just Adobe Premiere.
+Connor Wolf interesting.
I get a P.oFF fault do not now what that is, looks like power off fault?
Great tear-down!
What is the size of the fan?
I have one of these and it failed. Whenever power is applied it trips the whole house breaker. I had a GE afMini vfd with a varistor problem once that shorted only under power. Removing that varistor fixed the problem. No such luck on this one though. Next I guess I'll look at the rectifier. All of the rectifiers I have ever used had four leads. This one has five. A ground lead?
OK I can see it has three AC inputs on the rectifier. I forgot that these maybe take three phase input.
Well it turns out the rectifier for the R power input was shorted. I re-soldered the varistors and used the S and T power inputs instead. Now it powers up and doesn't trip the house breaker.
Thanks for the video. Having a basic tour of the device encouraged me to attempt the repair.
Brkaing Resistor? Must be for the Heavy Burtation for when you have a very darrison load.
Not bad documentation though... You get a good feeling when the documentation has more than two pages.
I actually had to read every damn line of that book today. Had to program the whole thing, still having some deceleration overload DC voltage issues. Learned a lot.
Got mine today for a HY03D011B. 3KW 110V unit. Page count is now 67 pages with the last page for notes. And the seller also included another page of notes on programing it.
If BigClive says you're a smart dude, these knuckleheads giving you shit about the country that makes the majority of the world's consumer goods can kick rocks. Congrats on your success!
Nice tear down and commentary. One note, I wouldn't put ANY weight in 105C no-name Chinese capacitors. They basically print whatever they want on the labels as long as they'll pass basic incoming inspection. I've seen brand name 85C caps last 20 years in hot environments and have had Chinese 105C caps fail in PC motherboards and power supplies in one year at similar temps. Worse, there are also the clone knock off caps that appear to be name brand but are fake. Chinese parts suppliers will do anything to make a quick buck.
That jumper to the right of the green terminals what is that for?
Is the problem with people complaining about chinese products that bad lately that you have to put up an annotation at the beginning? Anyways, looks pretty well engineered, shame about the soldering. Something you didnt remark was that they put the heatsink the right way around, something not a lot of people do (often they blow straight onto the heatsink topdown, which reduces flow severely). The only real mistake i see is that the large caps are on the wrong side of the heatsink (assuming the fan blows air over the heatsink, if it is sucking air through the case than that is good design as well).
By the way, the sharp angles on the traces you are talking about at 19:30 has another disadvantage, the traces can also peel during PCB manufacturing, but like you say, not really a problem with most PCB houses.
+tHaH4x0r It's more that the CNCZone.net thread about these things was probably 50% people shitting on them because they're chinese without ever having tested them. I may be overreacting.
The fan sucks air through the case, and blows it out the top (the end with the fan), e.g. the "correct" way to keep the caps as low temperature as possible.
+Connor Wolf Ah so thats why, i am not into the CNC scene or anything so i didnt know. Most people dont really realize that most of the stuff they use comes from china, just with a brand label on top of it.
And if it indeed sucks the air through the case this unit looks pretty decent, if they fixed their soldering you'd have an A quality VFD me thinks.
+tHaH4x0r Heck, If they just washed the PCB with a defluxing agent, that alone would make it a lot nicer.
It appears that the datasheet for your 0260F8A is at www.farnell.com/datasheets/17451.pdf
+David Springs That does indeed look like the part. It also has a timer peripherals capable of generating 3-phase PWM outputs.
Interestingly, this is the FLASH program model. I wonder if it'd be possible to dump the flash, and develop a custom firmware for it?
I don't know if it made the video, but the keypad has (IIRC) a 8051 MCU in it, and I think it talks to the main MCU over a serial link of some sort. I didn't investigate too closely.
+Connor Wolf Custom firmware prototyping with a full-on load = BANG!
Wow, they highly improved the manual. A couple of years ago you got a barely readable photocopy of a chinglish manual typeset in Courier. So that's definite progress.
I hate the firmware with a passion. Utter crap.
+telecrate
For the ridiculous number of features the thing has, I think the firmware does OK. It definitely suffers from "lets add ALL THE FEATURES"-itus.
I think they probably just kept adding shit to the firmware until they ran out of flash space on the MCU, or something.
It slices! It Dices! It runs an entire single-axis CNC machine! Buuuuuut wait, there's MOAR.....
...I'm waiting (for over a year now!).
Thank you for your attempt to contribute to the development of humanity
with a fair honest review :-) Overall do you think it's good value for money and do you think it could be an advantage having some extra space inside for airflow considering it's a high power device that could be running for many hours?
+Coolkeys2009 The extra space inside is probably because, as other people have commented, that they have one housing size they use for multiple products, and the higher power versions might use the space more fully.
You get what you pa.... JUST KIDDING :P
I often buy cheap Chinese stuff, take them apart and add better parts, sometimes it works out, sometimes not, either way it's entertaining :P
Does anybody know what I should do for error E.O.C.A. on one of these???
Mack Everhart
I don't have any experience with these particular VFDs, but I'd check all parameters related to current. Check for parameters related to current limits etc.
I'd also use a clamp meter to verify the current reading i.e. make sure the current that the VFD is showing is indeed correct.
Mack Everhart
Also what application are you using it for?
They look like a copy of the Delta VFDs I use.
+CreativeType It wouldn't surprise me if they're directly cloning the physical appearance.
+Connor Wolf the only difference (other then the inside) is that it requires an external heatsync. I have the 20HP models. They are pretty nice with an encoder knob.
+CreativeType I picked up a 10 turn pot to use for speed control.
After that, I just need to figure out how to measure the RPM and display it somewhere accessible. I'd *like* to eventually put the electronics cabinet door back on, so looking at the VFD front-panel at that point would be somewhat annoying.
The RPM readout is complicated by the fact that it has two gearing modes. I've been thinking of using some of those cheap LED tachometers (~$8 a pop from amazon), and having two different encoder disks or similar attached to the drive system somewhere. One with the number of tabs that produces the correct readout in high-gear, and one with the right number of tabs for low-gear.
Realistically, I'll probably wind up just using a AVR.
Connor Wolf Yeah, I'd imagine either one of those would work. I feel like the optical encoder would be the easiest but you'd need to keep it away from dust/ etc.
Actually it looks quite reasonable inside.
I don't mind cheap Chinese if its function. And I don't bitch about the Chinglish either, because if they work with you, you can get it all figured out, especially with good diagrams. As with American products or any other, its about customer service. Have several of these, right now trying to get a 4 KW working on a 5hp motor with a resistor with dynamic braking . So far so good. Nice video.
They work incredibly well. My 4kw runs my compressor beautifully.
Probably a 3 phase motor on the compressor and no 3 phase supply, so single to 3 phase VFD. Using a VFD also means the motor can be ramp started to reduce the starting load.
"But a single to three phase VFD gives out only single phase voltage"
That doesn't make sense. A single to 3 phase VFD gives a 3 phase output. I have a 3 HP 3 phase compressor running from a single to 3 phase VFD, from a single phase supply, and it works perfectly.
Yes, I should have clarified, the motor to be driven from the VFD, must be of the dual voltage type. Then it can be re-connected in the terminal box to run on 230 volts. A 415 volt 3 phase motor will run very poorly, if at all, on 230 volts.
Question: How did you do that white rectangle for making the chip details more visible in the video?
Also, what video editing software do you use?
Thanks!
Adobe premiere, and it was one of the effects in premiere.
Connor Wolf
Connor Wolf Thanks.
I think the processor is an stm clone.
I have a 10HP 7.5KW 34Amp one of these, I am using it with a 7.5 HP, 230 volt, 17.34 amp, 3510 rpm motor. It spools up to speed, but when I put a load on it, it faults out (E.OC.A). It shows that it is using 6.6 amps when I put the load on, I don't think that the amps are going up to the 34 amp rating. Can anybody help me with this problem???
Mack Everhart you can change the program to set max amps. Can't remember what program number it is but there's a video on TH-cam about it.
Mack Everhart motor amps program 142.
Got a 3 KW one of these
I thought I was going to see a Vacuum Florescent Display, oh well
Good video, although you need to work on your cinematography and stunts. I could easily see traces of the greenscreen when the guy jumped out of the helicopter. Good last 10 mins though... everyone likes happy endings.
Chingrish not clange wery much in thlee years. ;-) Funny thing about it is that on ebay, they don't even get their name right on every one of their own pictures.
All appricable regurations ..
Did you really opened the VFD just to find that they are not made with pink lace inside. If you wish, you can get OEM for adequate price, say 10000$. Device is as whole constructed to be cheap and this is done better than in most western. Btw. the remnant of 'flux' is anti-corona coating. Just to try with all means to find something to argue upon (mediocre soldering) is sign of bad prejudice.
I just scored a deal on a Enco 111-1450 lathe, it's Chinese, oh well, it is a heavy duty SOB. The previous owner added a nice leeson inverter grade 5.5hp 4kw motor.
I was going to build a RPC for it but I think I'll go with one of these Chinese VFD's instead. Just imagen, a Chinese lathe and a Chinese VFD? Would it work or will it be a Chicom overload and simple explode? or maybe just refuse to start?
Its a home machine shop so until I figure out how to make some $$ I'll need to make do with this level of equipment. I will just need to figure out how to interface the VFD with the lathe controls. Also, would this VFD need to be mounted in an enclosure?
Here we go, a lathe with Chinese VFD interfaced to work just like I need. th-cam.com/video/XR6R8pavtFA/w-d-xo.html
Thanks youtube.
Hello, i have two 1.5kw and 2.2kw Huan Yang and both of them run into some problens with different issues.
The first one the 2.2kw when it powers up, it flashes the firmware revision, as it normally does, but never moves on, it just keeps on flashing, it doesn't let you access in the menu.
The second one the 1.5kw it powers up, it flashes the firmware revision, moves to the main menu but when i try to change the menu settings it just doesnt storage in memory my settings at all.
I've tried the power stage on another identical inverter and it works fine, so my guess is that the control stage is at fault.
Since the inverter is out of warranty, is this repairable? Are there any spare parts on the market like the control circuit board?
Looking forward for your responce
Best Regards Alex
My mail is:Alexpalios@yahoo.gr
Lol @ 22:00 message
I actually think it's quite overengineered and could be done a lot simpler. And try not to try to appear smart by repeating dave jones' mistakes of ragging on chinese stuff no matter what and bs like movs and cutouts are all important. In reality a good design would have neither.
+Dan Frederiksen
What? I think it's fine, and am happy with it, even though it's chinese. *I* was complaining people rag on chinese products just because their chinese.
Also, cutouts are very important if you're space constrained. Sure, if you have infinite PCB space, they're not needed, but they allow you to pack a LOT more into the same space by increasing the effective creepage distance between parts, and therefore reducing the absolute inter-trace distance.
MOVs can also be important, depending on the context. Admittedly, they're kind of cheap, but they have their purposes, and some circuits *do* indeed *require* them.
+Dan Frederiksen You honestly think he does that in this review? Dave indeed has the tendency to either glorify something from a well known brand, and nitpick on every little detail on chinese products, but i dont think connor does that at all. All his remarks where fair, and cutouts and movs do indeed point at the fact that they thought about safety whilst designing this unit, which is always a good thing.
+tHaH4x0r if they do everything right they are deemed 'not completely useless'. But it might ironically be because he's afraid of judgment from others who want to hate on chinese products. But that's just no excuse. Judge dispassionately. Fearless of the ire of idiots.
+Dan Frederiksen You seem to be misinterpreting 'not completely useless'. *I'm quite happy with this VFD*.
Basically, I'm just not particularly effusive about **ANYTHING**. "Not completely useless" is pretty decent praise in this context.