Hi there, that is a great job. You should know that creocote does not provide any protection against rot though. It does not contain a biocide. All it does is create an oil film on the timber so that water runs off. Fantastic work though and this series is one of the best on TH-cam.
You and your son are doing a good job Des! I'm just starting a 20x16 workshop build myself 🙂 much better quality building yourself than buying a cheapo one. Will outlast anything you can buy by years!
@@21stcenturycaveman33 certainly is a big old job Des! Just had to install a 110' x 25' fence, that was harder work than i anticipated lol. Keep the uploads coming mate, always a good watch!
Hi there. Yes of course! Still standing and solid as a rock. Following your query, I out a soirit level on the worktops the other day - still bank on level. Might do a vid update on the actually. Best wishes, Des
Good video. Did you not consider anchoring the base frame to the ground? It appears to just sit on the blocks without being secured? Also do you consider PIR insulation between the joists to reduce the cold through the floor in winter?
Morning Alex. Two very good questions. Firstly, absolutely no need at all to anchor the base frame. However, this is because of the geographic location and where it is located. I live in the UK (not sure where you are) where the weather is nowhere near as severe as elsewhere in the world. Plus, the structure is situated in my back garden in an area that is pretty much enclosed and protected from high winds, etc. However, despite the above I would certainly consider anchoring it if the structure was located in an exposed area which may be subject to high winds even it is was in the UK. Secondly, regarding the insulation. When I do this again, I would certainly consider insulating between the joists as the floor does get cold. However, this is only necessary if you're going to be spending time in it but not if you're just going to use it simply as a shed. Appreciate you dropping by. Des
Disappointed no one did a tap dance on the floor once it was together, ha, ha. ( maybe you did off camera ). Good choice on the OSB, it is used a lot as hoardings around building sites, so it must be durable; I used it on my roof and it is holding up very nicely. Atb.
Hello there. Unfortunately not. However, please see the Q&A sessions at the end of thes eseries in which I address this issue and changes I would make if I built this again. Best of health and happiness for 2021. Des
Dble thickness heavy duty weed membrane in previous vid. No insulation though - one of the things i would do differently per my Q & A session at end of series. ATB, Des
@@21stcenturycaveman33 Instead of OSB i would advise using 22mm Egger protect (t&g) boards with a breathable membrane on the flooring, i would use the OSB for the walls 👍
@@dinnerlady9784 typical fucktard giving an opinion about what he’s not done, with only half the information. The weed membrane that was put down, was more than adequate! Insulation between the joists....😂 it’s the uk and it’s a shed😂
Hi, just wondering if you coated both sides of the OSB board of just underneath? I'm looking to do something similar myself as a summer project 6m by 3m after being inspired by your videos :)
Hi there. Initially I just did the underside to get things going and avoid delays and then I soaked the the top side with wood preserver and painted using a decking stain.Hope this helps. I found this to be a very enjoyable and worthwhile project which will add much needed space to my home both indoors and outdoors and also hopefully increase its value a little. I certainly won't lose any money on it when I sell up. Best wishes, Des
What size battery is your impact driver? I have a Dewalt combi with a 5amp battery but don't know whether it is powerful enough or do I need to buy an impact driver what do you think?
Hi there. The 5amp battery has plenty enough power and will be great for screwing in the smaller screws - say up to 50-60mm. However, with much longer screws you may that the combi drill will chew up the screw heads because of the way in which it drives the screws in. So basically, if you're just securing boards and timber using smaller screws stick with the combi drill - no probs at all. However, for the larger screws and more heavy duty tasks I would definitely buy an impact driver. Screwfix were doing an offer the other day whereby if you used their App to buy a 'bare' impact driver (i.e. without the battery) you could get it for £50.00 which is an incredible bargain (I bought one). All you need to do is stick the battery in it and you're away. Not sure whether deal is still live but take a look (has to be purchased vis App) See link below: www.screwfix.com/p/dewalt-dcf787n-xj-18v-li-ion-xr-brushless-cordless-impact-driver-bare/437gt
IN t5heory you're right but the reality is that there are a number of other factors at play which may take precedence, e.g. planning permission, space available, etc., and also the fact that machined boards and timbers are not always cut to exact tolerances. Good point though. Des
@@21stcenturycaveman33 In fact machine made OSB and plywood is cut very, very accurately, far more so than any on-site cutting can achieve. And OSB is resin bonded and coated, so can live outside, unprotected, for years. I've seen multi-storey OSB buildings sitting unclad for months in all weathers. It doesn't need stains or paint. Its the same with pressure-treated wood, it just doesn't need paint or wood stain, that's why its pressure treated, to avoid that extra paint process. I'm trying to save you effort. That's why you should try to use full sheets so that cutting is avoided, waste is minimised, and you don't have mountains of debris to get rid of. Rarely have I come across a situation that's so constrained that the fag end of a board needs to be trimmed off. You've paid for the wood, so don't pay over again for cutting and disposing of it. Using the 2440 by 1220 board as your module is a good start. It takes longer to work out on the drawing table, but saves a great deal of time on site. Clue: you need to use a tartan grid. Practically all major building work uses it.
Am I right in saying you made the sub frame using metric measurements of 3.6m x 2.4m or whatever the size instead of imperial? Because the actual size of the boards would be in feet, so that's why there is an overhang? Not having a go just wondering! I'm about to build a 12 x 8 shed myself. Thanks for the videos.
Hi there, that is a great job. You should know that creocote does not provide any protection against rot though. It does not contain a biocide. All it does is create an oil film on the timber so that water runs off. Fantastic work though and this series is one of the best on TH-cam.
Hi there. Thank you for your valuable feedback and your kind words. Best wishes, Des
You and your son are doing a good job Des! I'm just starting a 20x16 workshop build myself 🙂 much better quality building yourself than buying a cheapo one. Will outlast anything you can buy by years!
Now that's a big job you've got on there mate! I hope it exceeds your expectations. Best wishes, Des
@@21stcenturycaveman33 certainly is a big old job Des! Just had to install a 110' x 25' fence, that was harder work than i anticipated lol. Keep the uploads coming mate, always a good watch!
that's been a good progress is nice to have a extra pair off hand welldon des son enjoyed the video.
Thanks for your continued support. Des
Great videos thanks. My wood is due next week 😊
Thanks Garry. I hope everything works out well for you my friend. Des
Awesome series Des, this is just what I needed.
Glad to hear it! Enjoy your project and good luck. Des
Good job mate
Cheers buddy, Des
The torx headed screws are good to work with too.... Don't slip like Philip headed screws... Decking screws are very good too...
Agree with that. Good point, Des
Being built too last nice work des and son 👍👌
Thanks very much. Des
You and your son are doing a good job, really finding this very helpful. Are there other parts after part5 on How To Build A Man Cave please?
Yes, many more to come. Just trying to find the time to edit them and produce the vids. Another one will be posted this weekend. ATB, Des
I noticed that you did not secure the base to the concrete blocks ?
Not necessary my friend. It's not exposed to high winds, etc. ATB, Des
Hi Des, is the shed still standing?
Thinking of using the concrete block foundation myself. any movement over time?
Hi there. Yes of course! Still standing and solid as a rock. Following your query, I out a soirit level on the worktops the other day - still bank on level. Might do a vid update on the actually. Best wishes, Des
I would have put dpc between wood and concrete block to avoid rising damp through the blocks in to the wood
Agree. I covered this in Q&A section at the end. Best wishes, Des
could you clarify which wood coat you're using please (could not make it from the audio). Thank you for sharing your progress!
Good video. Did you not consider anchoring the base frame to the ground? It appears to just sit on the blocks without being secured?
Also do you consider PIR insulation between the joists to reduce the cold through the floor in winter?
Morning Alex. Two very good questions. Firstly, absolutely no need at all to anchor the base frame. However, this is because of the geographic location and where it is located. I live in the UK (not sure where you are) where the weather is nowhere near as severe as elsewhere in the world. Plus, the structure is situated in my back garden in an area that is pretty much enclosed and protected from high winds, etc. However, despite the above I would certainly consider anchoring it if the structure was located in an exposed area which may be subject to high winds even it is was in the UK. Secondly, regarding the insulation. When I do this again, I would certainly consider insulating between the joists as the floor does get cold. However, this is only necessary if you're going to be spending time in it but not if you're just going to use it simply as a shed. Appreciate you dropping by. Des
Hi matey I thought you made the frame 12 x 8 exactly and the osb boards would fit exactly without the need for trimming with the circular saw ???
Osb often comes, rather annoyingly, at 2440x1220 rather than 6'x4' so often needs ripping down slightly.
Disappointed no one did a tap dance on the floor once it was together, ha, ha. ( maybe you did off camera ). Good choice on the OSB, it is used a lot as hoardings around building sites, so it must be durable; I used it on my roof and it is holding up very nicely. Atb.
Hiya Ade. It'll be fine provided it is treated properly (hopefully anyway ;?) Take care, Des
Enjoyed this series, Des. Did you not consider insulating the floor between the joists with PIR ?
Hello there. Unfortunately not. However, please see the Q&A sessions at the end of thes eseries in which I address this issue and changes I would make if I built this again. Best of health and happiness for 2021. Des
How many mm thick is the OSB you use for the floor?
18mm.
Didn't see any weed membrane going down or any insulation in between the joists.
Dble thickness heavy duty weed membrane in previous vid. No insulation though - one of the things i would do differently per my Q & A session at end of series. ATB, Des
@@21stcenturycaveman33
Instead of OSB i would advise using 22mm Egger protect (t&g) boards with a breathable membrane on the flooring, i would use the OSB for the walls 👍
@@dinnerlady9784 typical fucktard giving an opinion about what he’s not done, with only half the information. The weed membrane that was put down, was more than adequate! Insulation between the joists....😂 it’s the uk and it’s a shed😂
@@mikefandango2296 Done plenty dickhead. If you've no advice to give, I suggest pipedown
Hi, just wondering if you coated both sides of the OSB board of just underneath? I'm looking to do something similar myself as a summer project 6m by 3m after being inspired by your videos :)
Hi there. Initially I just did the underside to get things going and avoid delays and then I soaked the the top side with wood preserver and painted using a decking stain.Hope this helps. I found this to be a very enjoyable and worthwhile project which will add much needed space to my home both indoors and outdoors and also hopefully increase its value a little. I certainly won't lose any money on it when I sell up. Best wishes, Des
What size battery is your impact driver? I have a Dewalt combi with a 5amp battery but don't know whether it is powerful enough or do I need to buy an impact driver what do you think?
Hi there. The 5amp battery has plenty enough power and will be great for screwing in the smaller screws - say up to 50-60mm. However, with much longer screws you may that the combi drill will chew up the screw heads because of the way in which it drives the screws in. So basically, if you're just securing boards and timber using smaller screws stick with the combi drill - no probs at all. However, for the larger screws and more heavy duty tasks I would definitely buy an impact driver. Screwfix were doing an offer the other day whereby if you used their App to buy a 'bare' impact driver (i.e. without the battery) you could get it for £50.00 which is an incredible bargain (I bought one). All you need to do is stick the battery in it and you're away. Not sure whether deal is still live but take a look (has to be purchased vis App) See link below:
www.screwfix.com/p/dewalt-dcf787n-xj-18v-li-ion-xr-brushless-cordless-impact-driver-bare/437gt
How is it holding up? Is it strong against winds?
What winds? Solid as a rock buddy. Will be there for donkey's years. ATB, Des
Hi ,What thickness osb boards did you use ??
When you are using machine made boards, you should use the full size. It seems very odd to be cutting off so much timber.
IN t5heory you're right but the reality is that there are a number of other factors at play which may take precedence, e.g. planning permission, space available, etc., and also the fact that machined boards and timbers are not always cut to exact tolerances. Good point though. Des
@@21stcenturycaveman33 In fact machine made OSB and plywood is cut very, very accurately, far more so than any on-site cutting can achieve. And OSB is resin bonded and coated, so can live outside, unprotected, for years. I've seen multi-storey OSB buildings sitting unclad for months in all weathers. It doesn't need stains or paint. Its the same with pressure-treated wood, it just doesn't need paint or wood stain, that's why its pressure treated, to avoid that extra paint process. I'm trying to save you effort. That's why you should try to use full sheets so that cutting is avoided, waste is minimised, and you don't have mountains of debris to get rid of. Rarely have I come across a situation that's so constrained that the fag end of a board needs to be trimmed off. You've paid for the wood, so don't pay over again for cutting and disposing of it. Using the 2440 by 1220 board as your module is a good start. It takes longer to work out on the drawing table, but saves a great deal of time on site. Clue: you need to use a tartan grid. Practically all major building work uses it.
Am I right in saying you made the sub frame using metric measurements of 3.6m x 2.4m or whatever the size instead of imperial? Because the actual size of the boards would be in feet, so that's why there is an overhang? Not having a go just wondering! I'm about to build a 12 x 8 shed myself. Thanks for the videos.