You should lubricate the piston rings and cylinder walls with oil before assembling, also that grease isn’t going to do anything if none of it is under the rocker arms where it contacts the lifters
The grease becomes more liquefied when heated up from the engine and get there on its own and the fuel mixture has lubricant in it which lubes the entire cylinder and therefore also the piston rings
@@BOT_EFE Following this logic neither someone had to lubricate the parts in a real engine. I mean you are not wrong but it doesnt help in any way starting it for the first time or while assembly so this does not really make sense.
@@MyrKnof im wondering how the rods survive at those RPM, then again its the weight, just like in a car engine its balanced. and this is super light weight so.. not as much stress?
@@VintageCR If it's strong metal, something hardened then annealed back to a softer state, it should work just fine. I mean, by the same metric... think how hard F1 rods last. Those are so small and light yet they can sing God Save the Queen on those engines...
Looks like a well made engine. I'd be slightly concerned about heat, as it's fuel/air cooled, but doesn't have much in the way of visible heat sinking.
That's a really lovely beginners engine. If this was my hobby, this would be my first engine I think. Love the torque screwdriver. I definitely need one of those 👍
I like watching small engine builds and break in running before using them for a project or making a power tool with it. I would like to see this tiny engine or another one that has either a glow igniter or spark plug paired with a DC motor/generator to see if it could run off the power that's generated.
@@theyeetus1428 these little ones don't always make enough power to run a genny that'd keep their glowplugs hot. At least that's true for the smaller aircraft sort.
@@theyeetus1428 that's half true considering an engine in your vehicle has an alternator which is three phase AC equipped with a voltage regulator and three phase full bridge rectifier plus it's made to run all the electronics on the vehicle. Now for a RC car, boat, plane helicopter or drone where size is everything that's important adding a DC motor to be used as a generator you have to look at will it put out the amps needed for the application which brings up the size of it also would a three phase motor be better suited for it and would it put out the required amps to run it.
@sourand jaded I don't think you understand. These bench top display engines (namely the super cheap ones) often *barely* have the power to overcome their own motor friction, let alone power anything. A better Toyo table motor could, or a decently sized Aero/car engine, but this thing? probably not out of the box. Frankly, even when you CAN, I don't know why you WOULD. Using a LIPO to power the glow plug is still easier, it's goanna outlast your fuel by a fair bit.
Construction on superior level and sound is truly impressive. It seem to have a lot of headroom in increasing performance by your ideas. Hope you’ll have time to spend on it.
@@aodxplosivdynogaming4906 The one that he has looks like a Norbar torque screwdriver, but yeah there are a lot of torque screwdrivers out there, and they aren't exactly cheap
I wonder what it's power output is and if it can swing a 4 blade prop on a reduction drive to fly a large scale P-51. A 3:1 reduction would put the prop at just the right speed at 15K.
This runs great, I think you should put this one in. Do you think it's stronger or faster than the 8 cylinder? It's wild how far these engines have come. I uses to have a special prong thing that goes over the glow plug to start it. Used to have to pop the gas line off, blow in with the line by mouth lolol, etc. I really like the starter and it works great too. I also like the glow plug wires. It looks like spark plug wires. Very cool machine. I had the Tiger 21 motor that came in the Schumacher truck. That thing would fly tho. I need to get it up and running again. After watching you, I really want to upgrade and update all of it. Lol I also like the disk brakes, I had the 3 speed gear and it would pop a wheelie in 1st and 2nd. But stopping was very hard and I can't wait to try the newer generation of add-ons. Can't wait to see what you do with this car bud.
What size were the rod cap screws you had to switch to? Also curious what torque specs you used on some of the assembly. The manual doesn’t appear to designate what should be used.
Johnny, how about the durability of these miniature engines? You could do some testing on that. I'm always afraid of buying those for a model car and the engine breaking beyond repair after a couple of runs.
I'm going to guess a pretty short life for these as well as the other engines you see uploaded here in the last year or so. None of them are really made for work, the cooling and lube systems are non-existent or very basic. They are shelf pieces.
@@Align700nitro I think about to build a truck based on that engine, but just for "presentation" purposes, like driving few rounds on road and thats it. I think it should be good for that purpose?
I know it’s been awhile since you posted this, but I got this exact engine last year and fully built it. Just one problem when the packaged it and sent it. They gave me the wrong starter belt, the belt number that I have is B86mxl, when I watched your video over and over again until I found the right size belt B88mxl, I went to eBay and found the right one and got them. I wanted to say thanks for the help.
I am wondering if the instructions say to add all of that blue goop lubricant to the valve train AFTER you bolt it all down? Me, being a very old mechanic, learned to apply all lubricants before installing metal to metal friction surfaces. All piston rings get a liberal coat of automatic transmission fluid as do cylinder walls (ATF is very high detergent which cleans the cylinder walls and ring grooves in case I missed a nano-particle). All rod, main, cam bearing friction surfaces get either MFG supplied lubricants, or "White Lithium". Either in my considerable experience work perfectly during "First starts". Also, Do you ever use the various miniature power plants you assemble in some form of vehicle? Planes, trains or automobiles. Thanks for the great videos!
The instructions surprisingly don’t say anything about any lubricant at all during assembly. I’m going through the comments trying to find what lubricant he used and the purpose for it since it’s not mentioned in the instructions.
This a great engine kit, just noticed building mine a lot of machining shavings in threaded holes and in glow plug holes snake like spiral shavings ,Q-tip and electric parts cleaner was the answer for the glow plug holes. Also 1 rod bearing cap a little tight ,so Loctite and backed off on torque a bit did the trick. One other thing, the rod top half bearing fell out of the rod there is a tiny oil journal to line back up, a tiny piece of wire will work( they drilled it at an angle so should be lined up). Great video thank you.
Bizarrre! Nano-tech. The ONE piston ring kinda indicator of the limits in reducing sizes and materials used. A fractal Universe indeed. Magic. I like ...... ohh... changing the oil & filter every how many thousand centi-metres???
Aside from the kit, what else do I need to have this engine running? Looks like I would need some basic tools, a fuel tank, hoses, and a starter at the least.
Probably around 12 years ago I converted my Losi Aftershock to electric from nitro. But the more I watch these videos the more I want to convert it back to nitro but with atleast a 2 cylinder engine (edit) oh man it's on sale for $150 right now I just might have to get this thing
just keep going up in the price range you can get everything you can imagine, turbos blowers etc, problem is some of those little things cost as much as high performance full size car engines
Great vids man, just picked up this engine for my kid. Can you post a link to your deans t splitter or explain how its built? I have found Y cables but not a 3 way like yours.Also what grease is that on the cam/rockers?
Johnny Q, I have question for you and I hope you are still responding to comments on this video. I'm using this for an assembly reference. I got an FS L200 Toyan engine and when I began assembly, I ran into a problem. First of all, I want to tell you I have quite a bit of experience building full size race motors, so I'm reasonably aware of proper procedures. Anyway, everything was going just fine untll I tightened the second rod cap and the crank became hard to turn. If I loosen the cap screws and leave the other rod tightened, it spins fine. I've tried everything. Turned the witness marks facing inward, towards the front, even switched piston/rod assemblies to see if it was an oversize journal on the crank. Same deal. With the pistons exchanged, the one that got tight before still got tight again. It seems like the clearance of the rod to the crank journal is too tight and when I tighten up the cap screws it's hard to turn the engine. (Not horribly hard like seizure, but way too tight to survive. When I loosen each cap screw just a bit, the crank turns just fine. As soon and I start to tighten a cap screw on the offending rod, the crank gets difficult to spin. I think I have a faulty rod with a slightly oversize bore. Have you ever run into this before? I noticed in your video you said the rod bolts were too long and you switched to shorter ones. I also tried that and it had no effect. I'm at my wit's end. Any ideas on a fix, or should I try to contact Toyan, or where I bought it, to get a replacement rod/piston assembly. Thanks for your time and any help you can give will be very much appreciated.
One common problem with almost all tiny engine kits, regardless of who makes them, is that their rotating mass is way too small. Replacing the stock flywheel with one that is 2 to 3x heavier makes a world of difference in low RPM operation and general stability.
Made the flywheel of my big car about 1/4 lighter.... Yea in a traffic jam or in the city.... Drives like sh.... 😅 OK you can drive it but the car drives worse! And this was the heaviest I could find. I wouldn't do it again for a daylie
@Nordlicht 1/4 is still quite a lot, but even though if you did less the effect would more or less be the same. The only application I know for using a lighter flywheel would be drag racing. Running really warm cams will also give off an unstable idle. Like those American big block v8's. Sounds awesome though
@@Nordlicht05 LOL!!! Years ago one of my college buddies was an auto tech and was absolutely convinced that putting a high-stall racing torque converter in his daily driver would make it better. It was the worst vehicle ever to drive in town. 🤣
@@g-nice_pimp Yep. I've built a few engines in my day and for a daily driver, the best cam for power and fuel efficiency is a good heavy towing cam like what they put in larger model pickups and work trucks or RVs. The torque band is almost always righting the range you need for normal driving and the peak torque/efficiency RPM is always right in the band you need for highway driving too. The really amazing part is that when such a cam is used to replace an emissions-compliant one it's common to see 20 to 50+% increases in power and fuel efficiency at the same time.
Nice work. Would you mind posting a list of additional parts and tools you used and the torque specifications? I'm planning to do a similar project soon. Thanks!!
Wonder if it's got any power at all. If it gets hot, too. Didn't see any cooling, other than the fan blades. I'd really like to see it put to work. Love the videos, man. 👍
Is there something like a diesel RC engine? If so would be cool to buy one and run it on something like oil. If not try to make one? You should have the mashinery to make a RC engine. Just an idea
Nitro motors are technically Diesel engines, Glow plugs and all. Diesel is a less refined version of kerosene and burns pretty dirty. They make kits to convert those tiny 2 stroke cox nitro motors to diesel. I’m guessing it raises the compression and has a larger reed valve because it’s a less efficient fuel than nitro.
@@shize9ine Weren't early diesel engines the ones with fuel injectors into the chambers instead of a fuel air mixture from a carbeurator? That was the thing I had in mind
06:36 you wont get any more speed by changing from a 3S to a 4S battery pack when there is no motor load. If your speed increased by changing to 4S it simply means the 3S system was not man enough for the job. Its the brushless controller that determines motor speed generally and not the battery pack voltage.
I think it's pretty cool for selling the scale rc look without going overboard in complexity. I've got other projects to work on first, but eventually i want to scratch build an appropriate scale trophy truck for one of these engines. I might build a 1/4 to 1/3 scale 212cc Predator version first as i probably already have enough scrap metal to build a square tube frame that size.
Even the manufactures of the cheapest of kits should respect the customers enough to at least give them the proper length fasteners to put the kit together
somewhere in a parallel universe, there isn't a million comments asking to see these engines in cars lol. although putting this in the cheapest crawler would be fun.
Hey bro, if you care about that motor, you might want to pull the seals out of the bearings and put some grease in there because I bet you they were shipped dry
Wondering why there isn't a modular stand for the rpm meter. the ability to build everything (even from scrap) and yet still something that would help produce a bit more accurate reading is not built. still love the videos, dont really care that much about the meter!
Not much lift duration on cam so I doubt it would idle very low, it probably suffers from valve float as well with the shape of it. Making a heavier flywheel would help but also would make it less responsive to throttle. A combination of different cam and flywheel could get you there but probably not practical unless you make a cam grinding machine. Making a cam grinder would be a cool project.
Bravo.......engine on turn table........I didn't see intake and exhaust ......needle bearings piston.....dish piston......turbo.....block is rough ...cheers
Hey man, I really like your videos. I'm not having a great time with building my L200 tho. Toyan is unreachable it appears. They appeared to have shipped me the wrong starter belt cause in your video it shows 88mxl mine shows 86, so probably that means two teeth short. The proper size belt doesn't appear to be available. Really don't know who to turn to.
Awesome stuff this. Now imagine if they made electric motor kits (like the ones in electric cars) which someone could have to similar scale as this! That would be crazy. Probably will never be done tho 😔
ya looks like it a little bit probably why it’s so cheap bad quality parts especially if they can’t even give the right screws for the rod caps probably won’t even last a tank like that
You should lubricate the piston rings and cylinder walls with oil before assembling, also that grease isn’t going to do anything if none of it is under the rocker arms where it contacts the lifters
fact
That’s what I was thinking lol
The grease becomes more liquefied when heated up from the engine and get there on its own and the fuel mixture has lubricant in it which lubes the entire cylinder and therefore also the piston rings
Those squeaks when adding the pistons caused me physical pain
@@BOT_EFE Following this logic neither someone had to lubricate the parts in a real engine. I mean you are not wrong but it doesnt help in any way starting it for the first time or while assembly so this does not really make sense.
Every time I see these things running at 15,000+ Rpm I am constantly amazed that those little valve springs are up to the task😳
they dont have to move much weight :D
@@MyrKnof im wondering how the rods survive at those RPM, then again its the weight, just like in a car engine its balanced.
and this is super light weight so.. not as much stress?
Plus I'm sure it might also be made with lower friction materials since these don't have oil pumps like the more detailed engines
@@VintageCR If it's strong metal, something hardened then annealed back to a softer state, it should work just fine. I mean, by the same metric... think how hard F1 rods last. Those are so small and light yet they can sing God Save the Queen on those engines...
Couldn’t overstate.
I really like the way this one sounds vs the 4cyl. Variants. Big cyls. Big sounds.
I thought it sound like a chainsaw!
Looks like a well made engine. I'd be slightly concerned about heat, as it's fuel/air cooled, but doesn't have much in the way of visible heat sinking.
nitro being mostly methanol runs extremely cold luckily but agreed
It has a lot of design flaws. Currently on my second starter belt and this one is on it's way out.
Absolutely fascinating. You assembled it very quickly!
If you watch it at 2x speed then he absolutely smashes it out. :D
@@aSpyIntheHaus I always do actually! 😂😂😂
This little thing is amazing. It revs so high and has a good range. Feels realy responsive to the trottle.
Yours videos are amazing!
Welp it's another nitro engine. I wish we would see the real spark plugs engines.
Meh. Added complexity which leads to degraded performance
As a model engine for a desk of the young car enthusiast, absolutely
@@malice6081 get the Cison 4cylinder
Real spark plugs require about 20 more parts lol
$150 is nuts level of cheap though nitro or not.
That's a really lovely beginners engine. If this was my hobby, this would be my first engine I think.
Love the torque screwdriver. I definitely need one of those 👍
As a demonstration of how simple a four-stroke engine can be, this one is really cool!
I like watching small engine builds and break in running before using them for a project or making a power tool with it.
I would like to see this tiny engine or another one that has either a glow igniter or spark plug paired with a DC motor/generator to see if it could run off the power that's generated.
Of course it could. That's exactly what full size engines do.
@@theyeetus1428 these little ones don't always make enough power to run a genny that'd keep their glowplugs hot. At least that's true for the smaller aircraft sort.
@@theyeetus1428 that's half true considering an engine in your vehicle has an alternator which is three phase AC equipped with a voltage regulator and three phase full bridge rectifier plus it's made to run all the electronics on the vehicle.
Now for a RC car, boat, plane helicopter or drone where size is everything that's important adding a DC motor to be used as a generator you have to look at will it put out the amps needed for the application which brings up the size of it also would a three phase motor be better suited for it and would it put out the required amps to run it.
@sourand jaded I don't think you understand. These bench top display engines (namely the super cheap ones) often *barely* have the power to overcome their own motor friction, let alone power anything. A better Toyo table motor could, or a decently sized Aero/car engine, but this thing? probably not out of the box. Frankly, even when you CAN, I don't know why you WOULD. Using a LIPO to power the glow plug is still easier, it's goanna outlast your fuel by a fair bit.
Could these mini engines be used as a lawnmower engine?
Construction on superior level and sound is truly impressive. It seem to have a lot of headroom in increasing performance by your ideas. Hope you’ll have time to spend on it.
The sound reminds me of older 4-stroke GP bikes! Lovely 🙂
I was going to say that exact same thing! Lol.
That's an awesome electric screwdriver and torque driver(?). Looks like a torque wrench in screwdriver form.
What brand is it i would liek to get it
@@aodxplosivdynogaming4906 The one that he has looks like a Norbar torque screwdriver, but yeah there are a lot of torque screwdrivers out there, and they aren't exactly cheap
I wonder how long a small engine like that would run if it ran continuous.
at redline? Probably a few minutes.
@@detaart was thinking about 66% power and 56% load
@@catfood9707 i dno. Not very long. I think it would overheat pretty quickly. It's fuel cooled it seems.
I wonder what it's power output is and if it can swing a 4 blade prop on a reduction drive to fly a large scale P-51. A 3:1 reduction would put the prop at just the right speed at 15K.
can you please make a crossplane shaft for it like the Yamaha MT07? I love your content
This runs great, I think you should put this one in. Do you think it's stronger or faster than the 8 cylinder? It's wild how far these engines have come. I uses to have a special prong thing that goes over the glow plug to start it. Used to have to pop the gas line off, blow in with the line by mouth lolol, etc. I really like the starter and it works great too. I also like the glow plug wires. It looks like spark plug wires. Very cool machine. I had the Tiger 21 motor that came in the Schumacher truck. That thing would fly tho. I need to get it up and running again. After watching you, I really want to upgrade and update all of it. Lol
I also like the disk brakes, I had the 3 speed gear and it would pop a wheelie in 1st and 2nd. But stopping was very hard and I can't wait to try the newer generation of add-ons.
Can't wait to see what you do with this car bud.
What size were the rod cap screws you had to switch to? Also curious what torque specs you used on some of the assembly. The manual doesn’t appear to designate what should be used.
where do you find the manual cant download it off the website
Wow this actualy sounds nice! I'm into RC racing but might build a 1/8 "toy" car with this engine :)
Tell me how that worked out I’m planning to do the same
This man is a absolute legend. Thank you for not failing to entertain us!
Johnny, how about the durability of these miniature engines?
You could do some testing on that.
I'm always afraid of buying those for a model car and the engine breaking beyond repair after a couple of runs.
couple hours of running before needing maintenance i think, few screws so fairly simple imo
I'm going to guess a pretty short life for these as well as the other engines you see uploaded here in the last year or so.
None of them are really made for work, the cooling and lube systems are non-existent or very basic.
They are shelf pieces.
forget about runing model car with those engine. They have no torque, those engine were made to run on a stand.
@@Align700nitro I think about to build a truck based on that engine, but just for "presentation" purposes, like driving few rounds on road and thats it. I think it should be good for that purpose?
Were the rod cap screws too long because they were a counterbalance?
you should tie it at full throttle, no coolant and spray nitrous into the intake until it blows up or gets hot and locks up
You should so he doesn’t lose money for your stupid idea😂
I know it’s been awhile since you posted this, but I got this exact engine last year and fully built it. Just one problem when the packaged it and sent it. They gave me the wrong starter belt, the belt number that I have is B86mxl, when I watched your video over and over again until I found the right size belt B88mxl, I went to eBay and found the right one and got them. I wanted to say thanks for the help.
I am wondering if the instructions say to add all of that blue goop lubricant to the valve train AFTER you bolt it all down? Me, being a very old mechanic, learned to apply all lubricants before installing metal to metal friction surfaces. All piston rings get a liberal coat of automatic transmission fluid as do cylinder walls (ATF is very high detergent which cleans the cylinder walls and ring grooves in case I missed a nano-particle). All rod, main, cam bearing friction surfaces get either MFG supplied lubricants, or "White Lithium". Either in my considerable experience work perfectly during "First starts". Also, Do you ever use the various miniature power plants you assemble in some form of vehicle? Planes, trains or automobiles. Thanks for the great videos!
The instructions surprisingly don’t say anything about any lubricant at all during assembly. I’m going through the comments trying to find what lubricant he used and the purpose for it since it’s not mentioned in the instructions.
@@jacobhendricks8378 have you found anything on lubricants/grease? I'm also trying to find answers
@@6132-k1n I ended up using standard red automotive high temp solid grease on the cam and engine assembly lube on all moving parts during assembly
@@jacobhendricks8378 awesome thanks for the answer mate! Cheers
I’d love to see this thing with a dual carb setup
This video it's so relaxing 😴
Quality craftsmanship.
This a great engine kit, just noticed building mine a lot of machining shavings in threaded holes and in glow plug holes snake like spiral shavings ,Q-tip and electric parts cleaner was the answer for the glow plug holes.
Also 1 rod bearing cap a little tight ,so Loctite and backed off on torque a bit did the trick.
One other thing, the rod top half bearing fell out of the rod there is a tiny oil journal to line back up, a tiny piece of wire will work( they drilled it at an angle so should be lined up).
Great video thank you.
Great little model engine!!😁🔧🛠️👍
Building a cam grinder for these small engines would be a cool project for you.
You are just brilliant. Amazing work. We’re do you get all of the small tools that you use? Got any links where we get them at??
JohnnyQ90_1
Sorry, I’m not any the chat stuff. I wouldn’t know the first thing to do. A prize! Heck ya!
Bizarrre! Nano-tech. The ONE piston ring kinda indicator of the limits in reducing sizes and materials used. A fractal Universe indeed. Magic. I like ...... ohh... changing the oil & filter every how many thousand centi-metres???
And now I know what I want for Christmas.
Oh man
Aside from the kit, what else do I need to have this engine running? Looks like I would need some basic tools, a fuel tank, hoses, and a starter at the least.
do you buy these or do the manufacturers send you the engines?
Probably around 12 years ago I converted my Losi Aftershock to electric from nitro. But the more I watch these videos the more I want to convert it back to nitro but with atleast a 2 cylinder engine (edit) oh man it's on sale for $150 right now I just might have to get this thing
It's a really good price, but note that $150 gets you the bare engine. You need the igniters and spark plugs to get it running.
Sucker sounds healthy! Most don't sound as good. Impressive
I wanna see one of these have its own proper pressurized oiling system.
x2
just keep going up in the price range you can get everything you can imagine, turbos blowers etc, problem is some of those little things cost as much as high performance full size car engines
@@ccclc6159 yea I’ve seen them go for 17k like holy cow. I’ll go buy a junk ls7 send it to katech and have 700hp .
@@ferrarikingdom 🤯
@@ferrarikingdom Good luck fitting that engine in a RC car :))
Have you ever considered building a hybrid RC(electric and engine powered) car. That would be interesting to do
Great vids man, just picked up this engine for my kid. Can you post a link to your deans t splitter or explain how its built? I have found Y cables but not a 3 way like yours.Also what grease is that on the cam/rockers?
Actually I'm looking for the same answers as you I too just got a two-way y connector I'm hoping to make that work just not sure the button
Very interesting , as usual !
Fascinating littles wonders !
какая красота,не могу оторваться
Johnny Q, I have question for you and I hope you are still responding to comments on this video. I'm using this for an assembly reference. I got an FS L200 Toyan engine and when I began assembly, I ran into a problem. First of all, I want to tell you I have quite a bit of experience building full size race motors, so I'm reasonably aware of proper procedures. Anyway, everything was going just fine untll I tightened the second rod cap and the crank became hard to turn. If I loosen the cap screws and leave the other rod tightened, it spins fine. I've tried everything. Turned the witness marks facing inward, towards the front, even switched piston/rod assemblies to see if it was an oversize journal on the crank. Same deal. With the pistons exchanged, the one that got tight before still got tight again. It seems like the clearance of the rod to the crank journal is too tight and when I tighten up the cap screws it's hard to turn the engine. (Not horribly hard like seizure, but way too tight to survive. When I loosen each cap screw just a bit, the crank turns just fine. As soon and I start to tighten a cap screw on the offending rod, the crank gets difficult to spin. I think I have a faulty rod with a slightly oversize bore. Have you ever run into this before? I noticed in your video you said the rod bolts were too long and you switched to shorter ones. I also tried that and it had no effect. I'm at my wit's end. Any ideas on a fix, or should I try to contact Toyan, or where I bought it, to get a replacement rod/piston assembly. Thanks for your time and any help you can give will be very much appreciated.
One common problem with almost all tiny engine kits, regardless of who makes them, is that their rotating mass is way too small. Replacing the stock flywheel with one that is 2 to 3x heavier makes a world of difference in low RPM operation and general stability.
Made the flywheel of my big car about 1/4 lighter.... Yea in a traffic jam or in the city.... Drives like sh.... 😅 OK you can drive it but the car drives worse! And this was the heaviest I could find. I wouldn't do it again for a daylie
@Nordlicht 1/4 is still quite a lot, but even though if you did less the effect would more or less be the same. The only application I know for using a lighter flywheel would be drag racing. Running really warm cams will also give off an unstable idle. Like those American big block v8's. Sounds awesome though
@@Nordlicht05 LOL!!! Years ago one of my college buddies was an auto tech and was absolutely convinced that putting a high-stall racing torque converter in his daily driver would make it better.
It was the worst vehicle ever to drive in town. 🤣
@@g-nice_pimp Yep. I've built a few engines in my day and for a daily driver, the best cam for power and fuel efficiency is a good heavy towing cam like what they put in larger model pickups and work trucks or RVs.
The torque band is almost always righting the range you need for normal driving and the peak torque/efficiency RPM is always right in the band you need for highway driving too.
The really amazing part is that when such a cam is used to replace an emissions-compliant one it's common to see 20 to 50+% increases in power and fuel efficiency at the same time.
I love the price point for this engine. As a request, could you perhaps bridge port the rotary?
Honda owners are salivating rn.
That sounded pretty good.
Sounded really nice.
so does this have a timed spark or does a glow plug just glow all the time and it just timed by the intake cam?
For being the cheapest, it looks quite expensive :P Very nice
Hello. What lubricant are you using in the video at 5:13/10:07?
Nice work. Would you mind posting a list of additional parts and tools you used and the torque specifications? I'm planning to do a similar project soon. Thanks!!
is there as much runnout on the hex socket cap head screws as it appears to be at ~4:00?
Wonder if it's got any power at all. If it gets hot, too. Didn't see any cooling, other than the fan blades. I'd really like to see it put to work. Love the videos, man. 👍
It's a nitro engine, the fuel does the heavy lifting as far as cooling goes.
Thanks Johnny 👍🏻🌟
Lovely little moter the Otto finished building got spark ignition for mine bought the kit
I would recomend making a video about the petrol conversion kit, it would be pretty cool
Супер. Каждое видео ваше смотрю с удовольствием.
Imagine toyan actually added a variable valve timing on their model
Is there something like a diesel RC engine? If so would be cool to buy one and run it on something like oil. If not try to make one? You should have the mashinery to make a RC engine.
Just an idea
Nitro motors are technically Diesel engines, Glow plugs and all. Diesel is a less refined version of kerosene and burns pretty dirty. They make kits to convert those tiny 2 stroke cox nitro motors to diesel. I’m guessing it raises the compression and has a larger reed valve because it’s a less efficient fuel than nitro.
@@shize9ine Weren't early diesel engines the ones with fuel injectors into the chambers instead of a fuel air mixture from a carbeurator? That was the thing I had in mind
06:36 you wont get any more speed by changing from a 3S to a 4S battery pack when there is no motor load. If your speed increased by changing to 4S it simply means the 3S system was not man enough for the job. Its the brushless controller that determines motor speed generally and not the battery pack voltage.
the 2025 hyndai cilantro gonna be powered by this lol
Hey. Where did buy the torque screw driver from please?
I love how most of these engines pretend to be twin-cam with those double pulleys, as if they're a Cosworth BDG or a Toyota 4A-GE.
I think it's pretty cool for selling the scale rc look without going overboard in complexity. I've got other projects to work on first, but eventually i want to scratch build an appropriate scale trophy truck for one of these engines. I might build a 1/4 to 1/3 scale 212cc Predator version first as i probably already have enough scrap metal to build a square tube frame that size.
Thank you for your passion
Even the manufactures of the cheapest of kits should respect the customers enough to at least give them the proper length fasteners to put the kit together
7:32, did you do an oil change after three tanks?
That little thing sounds even better than todays F1 cars !
somewhere in a parallel universe, there isn't a million comments asking to see these engines in cars lol. although putting this in the cheapest crawler would be fun.
How does the crankshaft get lubrication?
I like that they named it Otto after the guy who made the first working 4 stroke engine
Excellent build Man! Loved watching every part of this!!! : >)
Two questions: What's the red fluid in the assembly process and what type of grease for the cam and valves at the top
I believe the blue grease is lithium grease
@@itsyaboikirbo thanks!
@@itsyaboikirbo thank you
@itsyaboikirbo in this video did you see how he wired the push button starter or any better idea?
@@nsvaluto48328 it kinda shows it at 5:50 , i havent seen that particular wiring setup before though
How get the cylinders oiled?
Nitro fuel, has oil mixed into it.
I think it'd be pretty cool seeing one of these on a little RC car
Dude, i miss the old you!
Where are the selfmade air turbines made from tou electric motors??
this is probably the best sounding mini engine I've ever heard yo. it sounds like a mini formula 1 car lol
Ok….
Good enough for my RC snowmobile. (I live in Fla)
Ok its not that bad, I guess I could put it on my RC jet-ski.
Perfect engine work
You should do a dyno test on it!
too small
Hey bro, if you care about that motor, you might want to pull the seals out of the bearings and put some grease in there because I bet you they were shipped dry
Now you need to figure out how to make your own camshafts for these motors and experiment with various lift heights and durations
I bet the throttle limit is from valve float. Cam lobes look like triangles lol
@@dev-debug its THROWING those valves open, lol
What are you torturing the screws to?
Whats the grease in the sirenge? Last question how did you wire your starter switch
Do kits like these come with detailed assembly instructions?
I want to see an RPM test vs the Torque
Wondering why there isn't a modular stand for the rpm meter. the ability to build everything (even from scrap) and yet still something that would help produce a bit more accurate reading is not built.
still love the videos, dont really care that much about the meter!
Can you make bigger/heavier flywheel and see how low rpm it can get?
Not much lift duration on cam so I doubt it would idle very low, it probably suffers from valve float as well with the shape of it. Making a heavier flywheel would help but also would make it less responsive to throttle. A combination of different cam and flywheel could get you there but probably not practical unless you make a cam grinding machine. Making a cam grinder would be a cool project.
Your sound keeps kicking in and out
Your sound keeps going out and it's out more than it's in
And your video is blurred goes blurry sometimes
Where do you buy the tools and fuel tanks and pumps and various stuff?
Now what’s needed is a mini dynamometer kit. 😌
Bravo.......engine on turn table........I didn't see intake and exhaust ......needle bearings piston.....dish piston......turbo.....block is rough ...cheers
Hey man, I really like your videos. I'm not having a great time with building my L200 tho. Toyan is unreachable it appears. They appeared to have shipped me the wrong starter belt cause in your video it shows 88mxl mine shows 86, so probably that means two teeth short. The proper size belt doesn't appear to be available. Really don't know who to turn to.
Awesome stuff this.
Now imagine if they made electric motor kits (like the ones in electric cars) which someone could have to similar scale as this! That would be crazy. Probably will never be done tho 😔
boy have i got news for you!
That would be so boring. Just winding wires
Was für ein Öl/fett benutzt man am besten
Why has the idler pully got so much more contact area with the cam belt than the cam shaft pully?
did you use a torque gauge on the rod capes and mains capes?
is the crank walking at 9:24?
ya looks like it a little bit probably why it’s so cheap bad quality parts especially if they can’t even give the right screws for the rod caps probably won’t even last a tank like that
It's great - aside from the failure point on the camshaft. If not for that, I'd buy one!!
Does the kit come with wiring instructions?