Both ends of you round slipstone are plugged with residue from the last sharpening. That's what makes it black. First, you didn't use any oil on the stone or the bit, much less some Trend Lapping Fluid, which floats the metal parts away even better than oil. You should always use some sort of fluid. To clean your stone, put some oil on it and rub the black parts lightly with your finger. That should deposit some of the black on your finger that you can wipe off easily. With flat stones, put the oil on, rub it around with your finger, then add some more oil and rub it across some clean coardboard. The cardboard absorbs the oil with the black residue in it. One can rub the round stone on cardboard too if you rotate the stone while dragging it across the cardboard. If you don't clean the stone it looses it's honing ability. It has to remove some metal to hone.
This was obviously made eight years ago because nobody but the highest end seem to provide bits like this razor sharp but rather look like they were "sharpened" with a wood rasp. I had to do this before using them or they'd have left a fuzzy ring. And nobody likes a fuzzy ring. This was very helpful!
Just a general suggestion to WOOD Magazine....Please click the "CC" option so there are closed captions for the folks with hearing issues and those who are watching and don't want to broadcast what they are watching.
I agree with a couple of comments below...The radial cutter should be sharpened by stoning its bevel, not its (flat) back; the analogy that it's otherwise like sharpening a chisel by removing material from the back instead of the bevel ("You forgot the cutting face!") is accurate. Yes, in the process of sharpening a chisel, you do indeed address the back--but only to make sure it's flat--before before sharpening the chisel by stoning the bevel. Other than that, the technique of using a round stone lightly chucked in a drill press works very well. I have resuscitated some nice old CONVALCO bits this way.
Hmm I would like to agree, however, I have sharpened alot of Auger bits, and its exactly the same face that is sharpened. I believe in this case, because there is 2 cutters, if you sharpen "from below" there is the risk they will have different heights, and only one cutter will engage properly. Where as you change the height far less sharpening from the other side, if that makes sense. EDIT: Ohhh sorry you are questioning the sharpening of the teeth on the rim :D
Sharpening a Forstner bit's main cutters the way you demonstrate is like sharpening a chisel by removing material from the BACK instead of the bevel. if you sharpen the bevel on the Forstner bit's cutters, you are only removing metal from a small fraction of the face you sharpened. It's much faster, and then whisk off the burr, and you're done. And it's the same thing on the serrated teeth around the rim -- I think it would be faster to sharpen the vertical face of each serration, rather than the sloping back...and for me, it's just easier to sharpen a vertical face, no guessing as to the proper angle.
But you do remove material from the back of a chisel when you sharpen it. As for the saw teeth on the bit you’d want to sharpen them the same way you’d sharpen a crosscut saw
@1:51 Capt Eddie says Don't touch this part, and @3:54 if you give this side 20 strokes then you must give 20 strokes on the other side to keep them even
Sharpening the BACK of the serrations to get the cutting edge sharp is like sharpening the back side of a knife blade to get the cutting edge sharp! Also sharpening the flat side of the chipper blade is crazy! No, no. You should sharpen the bevel edge.
Now just you waitaminnit... the rim of the "single cutting rim" bit needs to be sharpened where it meets the wood NOT the entire edge. When sharpening the inner radial edges, imagine how slow it will go if trying to remove metal from the entire face! There's a reason the bit is ground on the narrower edge. Example: when sharpening a plane iron or a chisel, do you sharpen the considerable area on the back of the blade? Of course not, the task would never get done. Instead, sharpen the ground edge. Buff the blade back for reduced friction on the material to be cut. I'll admit only a very short stroke can be made, but perhaps that's where a Dremel should be carefully used. For the serrated tooth bit - sharpen the leading edge of the bit where it's dulled. The back edge never touches wood, why in the world should it be sharpened? I see others have made the same observations... but Wood Magazine seems not to have responded.
There is not really any point in trying to sharpen the sloping trailing edge of the teeth on the periphery - they don't cut anything. The cutting edge of the teeth is the vertical edge and that's what needs to be sharpened.
Both ends of you round slipstone are plugged with residue from the last sharpening. That's what makes it black. First, you didn't use any oil on the stone or the bit, much less some Trend Lapping Fluid, which floats the metal parts away even better than oil. You should always use some sort of fluid. To clean your stone, put some oil on it and rub the black parts lightly with your finger. That should deposit some of the black on your finger that you can wipe off easily. With flat stones, put the oil on, rub it around with your finger, then add some more oil and rub it across some clean coardboard. The cardboard absorbs the oil with the black residue in it. One can rub the round stone on cardboard too if you rotate the stone while dragging it across the cardboard. If you don't clean the stone it looses it's honing ability. It has to remove some metal to hone.
This was obviously made eight years ago because nobody but the highest end seem to provide bits like this razor sharp but rather look like they were "sharpened" with a wood rasp. I had to do this before using them or they'd have left a fuzzy ring. And nobody likes a fuzzy ring. This was very helpful!
On the serrated tooth bit, weren’t you sharpening the rake on the serrated teeth, should it be the vertical edge instead???
Where did you get the round slipstone, and could you tell us what grit is it?
Do you have a link to that sharpening stone?
Just a general suggestion to WOOD Magazine....Please click the "CC" option so there are closed captions for the folks with hearing issues and those who are watching and don't want to broadcast what they are watching.
I agree with a couple of comments below...The radial cutter should be sharpened by stoning its bevel, not its (flat) back; the analogy that it's otherwise like sharpening a chisel by removing material from the back instead of the bevel ("You forgot the cutting face!") is accurate. Yes, in the process of sharpening a chisel, you do indeed address the back--but only to make sure it's flat--before before sharpening the chisel by stoning the bevel. Other than that, the technique of using a round stone lightly chucked in a drill press works very well. I have resuscitated some nice old CONVALCO bits this way.
Hmm I would like to agree, however, I have sharpened alot of Auger bits, and its exactly the same face that is sharpened. I believe in this case, because there is 2 cutters, if you sharpen "from below" there is the risk they will have different heights, and only one cutter will engage properly. Where as you change the height far less sharpening from the other side, if that makes sense.
EDIT: Ohhh sorry you are questioning the sharpening of the teeth on the rim :D
I found the round one on Amazon UK. They do a 4, 5, 8 & 10mm, all of which are ruby & 3000 grit. Hope this helps anyone still looking.
for the inside honing with drill press, mark the bit with a blue magic marker. acts like layout blue to show high places
And now there’s three edges, the wavy edge bit by Fisch.
It’s awesome
Nice Video. Thank you
What grit for the triangle honing sharpener?
Was hoping to find this kit but can’t. Googled the heck out of it and can’t find the round file used here.
very useful, keeping my bits sharp for coring out hollow forms on the lathe
where do I purchase the kit?
I would start with issue #204.
THANKS WOOD
Why not build a jig for the kit?
Sharpening a Forstner bit's main cutters the way you demonstrate is like sharpening a chisel by removing material from the BACK instead of the bevel. if you sharpen the bevel on the Forstner bit's cutters, you are only removing metal from a small fraction of the face you sharpened. It's much faster, and then whisk off the burr, and you're done.
And it's the same thing on the serrated teeth around the rim -- I think it would be faster to sharpen the vertical face of each serration, rather than the sloping back...and for me, it's just easier to sharpen a vertical face, no guessing as to the proper angle.
But you do remove material from the back of a chisel when you sharpen it. As for the saw teeth on the bit you’d want to sharpen them the same way you’d sharpen a crosscut saw
You forgot the cutting face!
@1:51 Capt Eddie says Don't touch this part, and @3:54 if you give this side 20 strokes then you must give 20 strokes on the other side to keep them even
Sharpening the BACK of the serrations to get the cutting edge sharp is like sharpening the back side of a knife blade to get the cutting edge sharp! Also sharpening the flat side of the chipper blade is crazy! No, no. You should sharpen the bevel edge.
Now just you waitaminnit... the rim of the "single cutting rim" bit needs to be sharpened where it meets the wood NOT the entire edge.
When sharpening the inner radial edges, imagine how slow it will go if trying to remove metal from the entire face! There's a reason the bit is ground on the narrower edge. Example: when sharpening a plane iron or a chisel, do you sharpen the considerable area on the back of the blade? Of course not, the task would never get done. Instead, sharpen the ground edge. Buff the blade back for reduced friction on the material to be cut. I'll admit only a very short stroke can be made, but perhaps that's where a Dremel should be carefully used.
For the serrated tooth bit - sharpen the leading edge of the bit where it's dulled. The back edge never touches wood, why in the world should it be sharpened?
I see others have made the same observations... but Wood Magazine seems not to have responded.
I have just watched 3 videos and each one has a different method, some grind the faces some grind the tips ... go figure.
There is not really any point in trying to sharpen the sloping trailing edge of the teeth on the periphery - they don't cut anything. The cutting edge of the teeth is the vertical edge and that's what needs to be sharpened.
McMaster-Carr are MASSIVE rip-off pirates (and SLOW service and doubt shipping rates) - only consider as an absolute LAST resort.