This Chainsaw Mod Will Leave You Speechless
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 5 ส.ค. 2024
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Ever notice old zero numbered Stihl chainsaws lasted forever, even still going. About 20 years ago instead of recommending and including a 40:1 mix with the saw/ manual they suddenly went to a 50:1 mix ratio and included it with the saw and manual. Within a few years ( I am a former certified climbing arborist/ tree service owner over 20 years) everyone started saying aww man these new saws just ain't built like the old ones, wear out fast. Same metallurgy, same oils( I've researched) and what you need to know is that especially if you are heavy cutting, day in and day out, disregard the manual and mix your gas( non ethanol, hi test if available) at 36:1-40:1 whoopety Doo it'll smoke a little bit, but when you run out of gas and it leans way out ( scorching piston and cylinder) on 50:1 you are literally losing thousandths of an inch throughout the saw. At a richer mix this isn't nearly the issue, over time you won't develop piston skirt slap, low compression issues ( in fact it raises cylinder pressure) and the saw will last forever with even a modicum of maintenance. Moral of the story. Spark plugs are cheap. Saws are not. Thank me by passing the knowledge on. Along with the witness of the salvation of Jesus Christ.
Cody, I’ve done a lot of chainsaw milling, one trick I learned that really reduces the work of pushing that saw through the log is to have the log on an incline, start high and finish low, let Mr. Gravity do some of the work for you!
Gonna be a killer anvil base!
Cheers from Tokyo.
Stu
I too have a way of reducing the work of pushing the saw… I make my son do it as I supervise!!!
Good tip 👌 👍
Thanks! I actually just thought to get this thing after I received a cheap vertical guide that I sent back because it is not square at all and not easy to install securely. Anyway, will go chainsaw milling tomorrow using my alaskan like mill. Greetings from Germany 🙋🏻♀️Anna
I went out and bought a 462 because of this series so I can mill some of the wood on my ranch with my dad. He’s entranced by your videos. Thanks for the inspiration.
I’ve been running a new 462 with a square grind and light bar for a few months. Such a lightweight setup for the power. Extremely happy with what I got for the money spent on it.
Did Cody get a 462? I knew he was in the market again but didn’t catch what he’s been running lately,
@@lukes.2014 I think he still runs a 461 among other saws. But I couldn’t find one in the store. So I settled for a 462 with one of those chips. We’ll see if it’s as reliable as older tech.
I have a 462 I love it. I added some bucking spikes and I have a few different lightweight bars 20, 28, 32. I've been thinking about getting a bark box muffler for it as well.
@@forreststrong797 that’s good to hear. I’m always hesitant about adding complexity but your feedback is reassuring. What brand bucking spikes did you use? And do you use one of those full wrap around handles?
@@forreststrong797 also how does it run a 20 inch bar. That thing must chew through anything
Buckin Billy is the go to for hand filing how to. It’s all in the raker height. He did an experiment where he filed one side of the teeth all the way to the marks and left the other side untouched. Filed the rakers as necessary and it cut straight. No need to count strokes. File the tooth and get it sharp, then hit the rakers with a gauge and it will cut straight every time. Teeth on my chains are all different lengths but the saw cuts straight. Some teeth get hit and need to be filed more than others.
Buckin billy has a great channel
Gotta go look into this I got a couple chains that pull
I'm 4th gen logger. This is true. If you file too much it will pull and kick like a mule. The best sharpener I've seen is the orange one made from aluminium with a carbide sharpener that you can use for either side of teeth and not have to adjust it again. I believe my father got from Northern Hydraulics catalog. It was around $80 I believe. This was years ago. Most have u adjust it for each side. Getting the rakes right is the key. We used to precut and mark out logs for log homes or whatever ppl wanted. We used a bandsaw mill after the old Frick with a 671 detroit diesel and solid round blade was just too much to run and not portable. But we could saw 50 feet on it no problem. It's hard to find ppl that can hammer those bog blades and sharpen them. It's a dying art. If you're going to do alot of sawing a wood mizer is tge way to go. You can even get extensions to saw long logs. It was so nice to take to job and saw what we needed and have alot less mess and clean up.
Idk who this Billy is but I'll check him out. Ginger Billy is really funny, I can guarntee that. Check out ginger billy. He's a redneck comedian. He's not vulgar and still very funny.
@@jasonchristopher2977 buckin billy is a animal!
@@jasonchristopher2977 oh you definitely lik bucking billy ray ! Old school feller an climber. Runs husky but he loves his old macs who still runs those ol school saws lol he got alot of them hot roded out but still a logging saws .
Any way definitely Check him out if your into cutting idk how you won't find content on his channel.
Love your vids Cody 🤗 Little “pro” tip here, the teeth on your chain can all be different lengths so long as the rakers are set to each tooth with a guide. If you hit a nail and it only blunts 5 teeth badly there’s no need to file all the others back and waste chain life, just set the rakers to the teeth you’ve filed. Hope that helps :)
This guy has become my favorite new follow so far this year. Started with the USFS shorts, and quickly moved to the longer homeowner tip videos.
Thank you!
Great work Cody! Videos like these take me (us) back to the old days, when you were doing timber framing, and building that bridge for Mrs. W! Cannot wait to see the finished product. God Bless
Awesome series. Really liking all the different ways you are showing how you can do this with different mills. As you said not everyone has a Lucas, super important to know how it can be done with other options. Every video shows your enthusiasm of being a professional home owner and motivates me to always do the work around the house myself. Hiring out is costly and we all know you never get the quality of work that we demand from ourselves is almost never the case when . Prayers for all.
Hello Cody. Love the mini mill. I have one too. It makes milling dimensional lumber a little faster. Using two chainsaws also helps. One thing I would like to pass along and only because I learned the hard way is to let the saw idle for two to five min after the cut. This will allow the engine to cool. I seized up my old husky after a 12 foot cut cuz it got too hot. Thanks for all the great content!! Can’t wait to see how you do the last cut to square off the cant. 👍🏻
that is a good tip.
Yeah I would definitely let it idle for a minute or two, and hit the throttle a couple times in between.
Cody, your videos are like a great book. I always hate when they finish and wish there were more to watch. Thanks
Thanks for all the instruction, especially this one. I purchased a competitive system however didn't find many good YT video's at the time, so this really helps. Would have to say at 8:55 just finish the cut and engine off - I am a stickler for this more than anyone you will know, but you should always let a fuel engine run after hard work to stabilize the temperature as best possible. A 2-stroke is working dang hard with high temps right at the piston, and after sawing I usually let my saws run for a minute at idle. On my vehicles I usually baby my way to the parking spot (last couple minutes) so I don't have to idle to stabilize the temps.
Looking good. Large timber tends to check on the ends...which may allow the spikes holding the anvil to loosen over time. As one of your first blacksmithing projects, consider forging a rectangular ring to wedge on the top. Wish you had a source for more anvils like that one...an amazing find!
Wait Cody, I’ve been watching for years. I’m sitting at a Ryder truck depot waiting on a truck to be fixed - I got 4 stops left to do - are you “wrangler” star for Jeeps that you used to work on ? Or is it like wrangler for Live stock ? Hah just popped into my head. God bless brother.
That man ! The quality of his videos always amazes me. The shots, the sound, the editing, everything!
That's awesome what you are doing. I was curious how much time the saw cuts are? I look forward to seeing what happens to the rest of the log. Thanks for sharing your experience.
Theres some gorgeous grain on show in those cuts, this is one of those things that'll just get better and better with age, it'll still give you the fizz looking at it when your an old geezer👌
Hell, it'll give his grandkids the fizz when they're old geezers.
Can’t wait to see the finished product! I’m sure it will be worthy of the beautiful anvil!
8:27 i wondered how you get the two side to be parallel.
Does the 2x6 twist or cup with the changes in the weather? And do you recheck it’s straightness?
I bought myself a 500i. My old boss bought one and he loved it. He is not easy on his equipment either. I had the 462 in one hand and the 500i in the other. Was the 500i worth the extra money. I don’t know, but I sure enjoy using it.
Simple but useful tip - for the bar oil I use an old 90 weight gear oil bottle. It takes very little finesse to fill the reservoir without slopping things up. The pop off / on tip cap is handy too.
Great to see the channel goin back to its roots! Good stuff. Time for off grid cabin 2.0!
My goodness, I 100% needed the answer you gave at 4:11. Thank you! I just bought a 500i, and had the fine sawdust deal within the first 5 minutes of cutting a couple big stumps. The chain was still sharp, and I was baffled. Had to put the saw away for the day to get some ground tilled and seed planted, and kept thinking ominously about the fine sawdust, wondering how to determine the cause of the “problem.” Now I know!
Do you have a rip chain? Those make long stringy saw dust and greatly increase your Ct speed when ripping logs
I was a logger for 13 yrs . Some of that was a timber faller, some was a arborist, and working in the rigging . In the rigging I was a chaser on the landing ,slinger in the brush , and best for last I was a hook tender for my last few years . Now want to talk about keeping a sharp chain. So many guys I worked with out in the woods that had no concept of sharping their saws . Lol they could never get a straight cut lol . Now working in the rigging we were always notching stumps to put our guidelines around and being a hook tender I was constantly notching stumps . Therefore I got really good at keeping my saw sharp.
Thanks for inviting us into the shop, Cody. Lovely way to start the day.
You’ve come a long way Cody. I happened to watch the video that came up from several years back when you were a Semi Professional Homeowner. You cut a 16” piece off a Douglas Fir log to look at it’s condition. You said “Now I’ll grab the peavey and roll it away from the log”. When you rolled it away it looked like it rolled down a slope because you kind of watched it go for a bit before cutting away. 😂
Hey Cody, just stopping by to mention I finally got around to trying Patagonia pants since I caught some of the cargo pants on sale. They just came in Friday and I can't wait to try them out at work. some of the most comfortable "work" pants I've ever worn! Thanks for the tip, even if I'm rather late to trying them out.
It is funny that sharpening comes up. I was just talking to my dad about sharpening after felling some trees this weekend. He asked about the Timberline sharpening tool that you reviewed a couple of years ago. I'm just curious what happened to that? Was it not worth the investment of time/money to continue the use?
Fantastic job getting such a good cut with such a small mill
Question. When you get to the end of those pieces what do you do to stop the weight of it tearing at the last few inches at the end of the cut. Surely it cant hold that much weight at a cantilever to give you a nice clean cut at the end. Do you support the piece in someway?
Cheers
Thank you for this series. I have found this very informative and very very enjoyable!
Your always an inspiration for us professional homeowners at heart just keep the content coming and forget the naysayers
I have 2 out of the three impacts for the M12 system one won’t drive longer screws. And it makes like easier if you have 2 different fasteners on 1project
Nice camera angles! And thank you for showing how almost anyone can do this
Do you prefer to do this in the shop for a particular reason? I think maybe because the lighting is easier to control.
I think I’d rather do this type of work outside to avoid the cleanup, but then again it’s 70° in my part of the country.
I hope the timber framing tools get the chance to make an appearance in this series 😬
I think you can hear rain in the background. Could be a fan though I guess.
This has been super helpful for us in the frugal-niche professional homeowner's association. 👍
Going to look great. That anvil was an awesome find. I’m not very knowledgeable on blacksmithing. Is the reason why they commonly use stumps because it’s absorbs the blows the best?
opposite: they want the hardest base so as to NOT absorb the blow. I guess it is that this maximizes the impact of each hammer blow into the working material. There is a ball bearing test where the bounce it to test the rebound. The higher the bounce the better.
You know it's a good fuel delivery system when Cody doesn't spill any 😂 keep up the good work brother
Looking good. This is just a suggestion - you do whatever you like - but, depending on how the sides of the base turn out(I have little to no experience with Fir) with the texture left by the teeth of the saw - and then lightly sanded or smoothed a bit, might look really nice.
I mean, there's a good chance that the anvil/base may be paired for decades and decades. It'd be a part of the map of the anvil's travels, so to speak.
Two questions, can you post a link for the chain sharpener you were using and for the fuel cans you had lined up under the workstation 8:54? Thanks, great video.
Cody, check out Buckin' Billy Ray Smith on TH-cam. He has some great insight on chain filing technique.
Thats a fantastic documentary by the way i saw it when i was about 12-13 years old and man i was amazed how one man could do all that alone and by himself!!!! When i was growing up thoses kind of men where my heros! Fred bear ect real mountian men!! Great vid
i have cut 10x10 beams before for repairing an old barn loft i uses an old hand saw it was fast and laborious but it came out looking good what's the advantage of using a chain saw?
because to me it looked fiddly
Those slabs that you just cut off would make great benches, plenty deep. Well done sir, I was hoping for a stump base and this appears to be a refined stump base.
Great content as always Cody! That music at the end gets me pumped up!!! May go take a slice out of a block of cheese…… closest thing I’ve got to scratch this milling itch without getting too crazy during the work day.
May be my imagination but I sense some 'bar roll' happening. 5:38 for example appears to be slight flaring of the bar where it meets the chain. Hard to tell from a vid. Easy to tell with your fingernail. Bar roll may be the least-known problem affecting the cut. It needs to be ground out every now and again or the saw won't cut right. I learned about it when I replaced my chain and STILL had trouble cutting due to an extreme case of bar roll. I was getting fine dust WITH a new chain. Took a moment to grind it down and never looked back. Great topic for your next vid because it is so rarely discussed.
I’m impressed! You threw away 1 or 2 2x12 boards with your 1st demonstration cut. I don’t think I could do that.
Well, it will keep you warm next winter.
How many minutes did it take to do the cut?
First thing while yes you are making a rip, you are actually end cutting when you’re milling. That’s why the saw dust is so fine.
Second, with all of the milling that you do I would think you would know that the angle for sharpening the cutters on your chain should be 10° and not the typical 25°-30°.
Work ,simply put, just fascinates me. I could sit and watch it for hours.
Cody, I noticed when you were sharpening your saw you didn't use the timberline sharpener. How come? I was thinking about buying one just for simplicity.
Those pieces you cut off would some fine sitting benches! What a nice chunk of timber !
NO one mentioned 4 strokes on one side and 3 one the other, awe wait,am I that guy ? Thanks for the video,production was well thought out,God bless you and your family.
I need to get a few of those fuel cans! I'm actually going to look at buying a motorcycle this weekend, and having something like that for longer trips would be awesome!
I can’t help but notice your excellent collection of tools in the background. Nice 👍🏼
Do you use ripping chains for making cants? Great video. I have one that uses a 2x4.
Very nice. Do you think us East Coast guys could use the same method to make a 4x4?
I'm afraid not, East Coast guys bar is not long enough,
Are you using a normal crosscut chain or a ripping chain? The angle you had the camera made it look you were filing at around 30°. I know I've seen ripping chains at 10°.
That is a slab of wood! Definitely gives me the “fizz”.
On another note, I couldn’t help but think how cool would it be to make some beautiful benches out of those live edge off cuts!
G'day Wranglestar, I would love to have access to your Douglas Fir beautiful. I imported my Alaskan double power head in 1995 had a pair of 066 magnums on it, and the lumber mate the next year and ran a 064 on it cut a lot of garden grade 8x3s. they've been hanging in the shed since 09 the Lucas Mill was the natural replacement 👍🇦🇺.
Ethanol in fuel is a major contributor to fuel geysering you gotta take what you can get on the fire line but I've noticed that I get significantly less vapor build up whenever I can use good 91E0 gas
those off cuts would make some pretty sweet benches!
Cody, when making that cut, did you stop occasionally and allow the saw to cool (of course keeping it at the idle).?
I have been loving your content recently It has been really fun and exciting.
I sure wish we were neighbors, as there would be so much to learn from you and to share the experiences of my life journey as career military and disabled veteran the last 10 years.
Great video. Question what chain oil are you using?
That Paul Sellers bench really got that good BLO patina going by now.
I use the 12 volt sharpener you promoted all those years ago and it still works great!
That's pretty neat, thanks Mr. W! I think I'd make a big bench out by the river with those slabs!
Hi wranglerstar, please could you do some more testing videos from amazon products, such good content, love all your uploads, got me through some tuff times
If you file your depth guages every time it doesn't matter how many strokes you take off any given tooth
You probably thought of this. But those two slabs you cut today will make great benches. You can attach some legs with the round tenon cutter you showed a while ago
It would have been cool to see a time lapse on one of the rip cuts to see how long it took to cut. But other than that awesome video!
Done enough chainsaw milling, I built a sawmill. And I’m really pleased at the rate of cut going from an 070 stihl w 36 bar.
You're right, I am speechless. Good job Cody.
How long did it take to make each cut?
I remember watching you use the original chainsaw mill way back when. You did a lot of time lapses. Then one time you showed the last part of the cut in real time. I was bowled over by how long it took.
I was wondering the same thing. I’ve been hobby milling with a Alaskan mill and watching videos makes it look easy. Most cuts take me atleast 16 minutes a pass.
So on a log that size how long was each cut in runtime?
I use the Alaska mark 3 chainsaw mill. It does work well, but makes a ton of saw dust!
what was the actual time of one cut start to finish?
Thank you Cody for an excellent video.
Few things in life are greater than a good gas axe, love the smell of sawdust and 2-stroke exhaust in the morning.
whats your thoughts on running used motor oil for bar oil>
Thanks
The anvil base is going to be awesome 👏. And now you have plenty of sawdust on hand haha 😆
Wranglerstar look into moding your chain to a ripping style chain, big difference in how fast you cut and how hot the saw will not get with a ripper chain! Good luck!
Wranglerstar maybe do a video on it and see what cuts faster.
Hey Cody, how is the qtac fire skid doing looking and when are you going to get it ready ?
Very nice camera work and edit, great tips too.
Wow I’m amazed at what you can mill with just a few tools
The professional homeowners catlike reflexes are developed by the clumsiness of said professional homeowner.
Please let us know when the motion pro Stihl fuel system becomes available. It looks perfect! I love my granberg mills...
People I've been in the woods and timber ove fifty years and I've seen saws sharpened everyway but as a rule if you cut across the grain you want an angle to your sharping and if you cut with the grain you sharpen the tooth straight across. You will note the difference in the dust right off... .act accordingly... And be safe
I've never owned a chainsaw but have used one before. I was "chastised" for using full throttle when just trimming small branches. I've noticed that every video I have ever seen the saw was run at what sounds like full throttle. That brings up the question. Is it ever a bad thing to use full throttle?
Love every video of yours that I have ever seen.
@sgtish: you're doing it right, a chainsaw needs to be at full throttle before being brought in contact with wood. If it isn't at full throttle, you will risk that the saw will be pulled away from you or pushed towards you, and cause you to lose balance and control.
Those end pieces would make great benches..
the minimill has been around for quite a wile. I was using one back in 1999 to mill some beams for building a shop.
For a rip cut try to use 10 degree sharpening, look what happens then :) Great channel! Keep up a good work!
Mr Wranglerstar. push the file the opposite direction. it will give a sharper chain, because there is no grades on the outside of the cutting edge. i was taught this by an experienced faller and have done so since with great result. thank you for the videoes and keep up the good work. best regards, Martin (subscriber)
I’ve heard many folks talk/demonstrate how they sharpen. You’re only the second person I’ve heard say to file from outside the tooth toward the inside. I’m definitely interested in hearing more. Heck maybe I should just sharpen two chains one each way and see for myself.
@@cowcatcher9186 please try it out or we can ask Mr Wranglerstar to try it. push the file into the tooth. afterwords, run your finger on the outside of the toot/cutting edge. you will feel the difference. the cutting edge will be much sharper. i also use a file guide to make sure all the angles are correct and constistent. im sorry to say i dont have the time to make a video demonstration. the best of luck.
Nice work Cody. Even for a West Coast Professional Home Owner. LOL.
Pro Homeowner tip use a sharpie to mark the first tooth. Then you know when you made a full round on the chain.
Marking is a good idea, but on a saw that's been cutting recently, the file removes the sap and pitch deposits, leaving the tooth clean. If one is sharpening correctly, there will also be a tiny burr on the outside of the sharpened teeth, easily found with the fingertips. Cody doesn't talk about filing the rakers in this vid, but they are just as important. If they are left too tall, the teeth cannot bite into the wood. Rakers are especially important when ripping. If not at the correct height, they will not push the cut material out properly and the saw will jam in the cut.
Them slabs would make some mighty fine benches.
Buckin Billy Ray "Get the Gullet"
The fuel “spray” thing isn’t a Stihl problem it’s a EPA problem. All chainsaw tank vents will let air in but not out so you get pressure in the tank. They don’t want fuel vapors escaping into the atmosphere. Obviously when you loosen the fuel cap vapors and pressure is released. The threaded caps are less prone to spray but they still leak fuel.