The videos replacing the joystick made it seem way simpler. I been struggling with this for about 4 hours and that's just one side. Going to get a heat gun and see what's up
It took me 3 days to remove both analogs but learnt to use more pressure when using the wick as it helps. And soldering iron size and placement is very important when it comes to adding solder. Very difficult but more confident on my next one now. It was a crazy learning experience
I just used a heatgun at 420C, 36 Air pressure, and did circle motions. It took me like 15 minutes, and then just used wick to clean the points, pop the new one in, and resolder it. Done.
I’ve used the same method a couple of days ago. Removing the stick was easy enough using hot air but clearing the holes with desolder wick was another story. I finally came to he conclusion that I must use a solder tip with enough surface to cover the entire hole, a temperature around 390ºC and a good amount of flux. The first time took me around 3 or 4 hours to figure out the right tools and settings for the hot air and soldering station. Now I’m able of doing it in less than an hour including testing and disassembling and reassembling the entire thing. Now the hard part is to get quality replacement parts.
@@Debu_Ranger My comment got deleted dont buy elecgear sticks. Everytime I let the stick shoot backwards it causes a big jitter on screen so to speak. Also the deadzones were way off had to buy drift stick fix v1.5 to adjust. I think its better to buy some off of alixpress.
Just did this cant believe I didnt break it lol. Have to wait on my sticks now but I believe nothing is damaged (if i didnt knock off a microcap somewhere by accident lol) Thanks for the educational video!
All i did was cut joystick legs with cutters.The heat up holes with solder iron and remove legs worh tweezers.Then use a wick or solder sucker to clear holes job done.
im at the point where i cut the joystick out but im having no luck trying to get solder out of the holes. sometimes my iron barely even melts the solder even tho its hot. is it cuz the tip is oxidized now?
No, turn the temperature up more and put a thicker solder tip on.Apply flux to the holes and fresh solder to the holes to it will help alot better.And use a solder sucker.But don't keep the solder tip on the pad for to long incase you remove the pads
I wanted to say thank you for your video. I have used your instructions for my Ps4 controller. Even though I am amateur and this was my first time, I managed to change my analog stick. Now my joystick is like brand new. Here are my settings: Soldering station : 350 Celsius Digital hot gun : 450 Celsius ( it's chinese so I can't really tell if that is the actual temperature). But I was able to remove the analog stick. And I didnt use any nozzles adaptors, I just used very closed to the motherboard for a short time. Flux is the must with soldering wire I have used regular aluminum foil to protect parts that should not be heated. It is reflecting heat. The most important tool was the soldering pump. Without it I wouldn't be able to create holes where the previous analog pins were. I have used some flux, then heat the hole with a soldering station on a 400 Celsius and the pump was directly on the hole as well. So working with those two at the same time, I was able to create holes. I was so happy when I saw that it was actually working. Some of them I had to repeat a couple of times until they were big enough so the pin from the new one can go through. I am extremely pleased that I was able to pull this through. I didn't ruin my joystick and now it's working like a brand new one. The equipment I have used, I have collected during a 6 month period. I hope this can help someone who might have questions like I did.
I use 450ºC and full speed, but it might be different from one heat gun to another. If you aren’t confident with your settings it’s recommended to test on a broken controller or other similar electronic device. As for the wicking process, you only need to press lightly, just enough to make sure the wick is making contact with both the soldering tip and the hole you are trying to clear. Use plenty of flux and make sure you use enough temperature to make it boil and evaporate. Again, is a matter of practice because there are multiple variables to account for like the size of the soldering tip, the quality of the wick itself, the type of flux, the thickness of the board, etc
Thank you for this, I wish I had seen it sooner. I think I might have destroyed some of the traces on the front trying to get the solder off. At least I can fix the rest and maybe use the controller for games that don't require the right stick
I'm trying to do the repair myself I have the heat station, Flux and Solder remover just not sure what temperature I should use and airflow number Any help would very much appreciated please and thank you
There’s a wire on the analog stick side of the board coming out of my controller (its not broken), can that be fixed? If so please tell. Also, what type of flux do you use?
Probably a dumb question but I accidentally pulled out a wire that was soldered. Do I have to use a solder sucker/wick to completely remove the solder that's on the board then reapply?
Flux is important as it removes oxides and helps the solder be a better conductor. You could do without but you might struggle. Also the solder used on Sony products is lead-free meaning it needs a higher melting point and is not as smooth as lead.
What happens if you burn the metal on the hole. Now I cant solder in one of the potentiometers I burned the metal on the hole. Is it ruined or can this be fixed? The rest of the controller i did flawless
Hi, I just replaced my joysticks. Thanks you for the video! But i now cannot charge the controller, the orange light flashes as though its charging but does not raise the battery bars. i may have knocked off an ic during the heating process. Are you able to shed some light on this as to which ic controls the charging? and or a schematic to compare mine to to see whats missing? mine is model CFI-ZCT1W Thanks
What do you use at the last part to clean all those black burned marks and spots on the board? I just changed my analog right stick and all I get is a 3 times blinking orange light. Can you please help?
Its so hadd to desolder , once i remove the thumbstick i put a bit of soder wire then flux then i set my solder to around 395 with a big enough tip and put thread on the holes then solder to it but only manage to get 2 holes cleaned, also the thread seems to stick to the boars why is that?
It's not that easy unless you have really fancy equipment. I'm assuming any gamer who just wants to repair their controller doesn' t have a pro soldering station or hot air. Anyways, I managed to remove the controller after 2 hours fight. Hot air, soldering iron, flux, solder sucker. Moderately cheap stuff. And it's never gonna come off that easily. What I had to do was use flux, add fresh low melt solder, use hot air to melt new and old solder, try to suck it. Repeat x50 ;) When I saw that the most of the solder was gone from the holes, I heated the pcb up again and tried to pry the stick off the board from the other side at the same time, using a plastic tool. Definitely not easy but worked eventually. One of the legs broke and I had to remove it separately from the hole which was pain in the arse too. After that, cleaning the holes and soldering in the new Hall controller was almost a pleasure. The Dual Sense works again which at least made it all worth while. Now I'm gonna do the same to my other Dual Sense that broke a few days ago so I looked if someone worked out a more comfortable way to do it. Apparently not. BTW, man, what an utter shit those controllers are...
The videos replacing the joystick made it seem way simpler. I been struggling with this for about 4 hours and that's just one side. Going to get a heat gun and see what's up
Did it help?
Same problem i think i need more and better equipment
It took me 3 days to remove both analogs but learnt to use more pressure when using the wick as it helps. And soldering iron size and placement is very important when it comes to adding solder. Very difficult but more confident on my next one now. It was a crazy learning experience
I just used a heatgun at 420C, 36 Air pressure, and did circle motions. It took me like 15 minutes, and then just used wick to clean the points, pop the new one in, and resolder it. Done.
I ruined my controller
I’ve used the same method a couple of days ago. Removing the stick was easy enough using hot air but clearing the holes with desolder wick was another story. I finally came to he conclusion that I must use a solder tip with enough surface to cover the entire hole, a temperature around 390ºC and a good amount of flux.
The first time took me around 3 or 4 hours to figure out the right tools and settings for the hot air and soldering station. Now I’m able of doing it in less than an hour including testing and disassembling and reassembling the entire thing.
Now the hard part is to get quality replacement parts.
So I am in the same boat, I've tried now with two sellers on amazon and still can't find good analogs. Please update this if you find a good seller.
Heat it up with the hot air and use a desolder pump to suck out the holes. Worked like a charm for me!
@@spacekees102 I’ve seen orange and blue sticks. My ps5 controller had blue. So I bought those. I’ll check the other sticks
@@Debu_Ranger My comment got deleted dont buy elecgear sticks. Everytime I let the stick shoot backwards it causes a big jitter on screen so to speak. Also the deadzones were way off had to buy drift stick fix v1.5 to adjust. I think its better to buy some off of alixpress.
Glad to see that you are good at this now, do more are helpful.
Just did this cant believe I didnt break it lol. Have to wait on my sticks now but I believe nothing is damaged (if i didnt knock off a microcap somewhere by accident lol) Thanks for the educational video!
All i did was cut joystick legs with cutters.The heat up holes with solder iron and remove legs worh tweezers.Then use a wick or solder sucker to clear holes job done.
im at the point where i cut the joystick out but im having no luck trying to get solder out of the holes. sometimes my iron barely even melts the solder even tho its hot. is it cuz the tip is oxidized now?
No, turn the temperature up more and put a thicker solder tip on.Apply flux to the holes and fresh solder to the holes to it will help alot better.And use a solder sucker.But don't keep the solder tip on the pad for to long incase you remove the pads
I wanted to say thank you for your video. I have used your instructions for my Ps4 controller. Even though I am amateur and this was my first time, I managed to change my analog stick. Now my joystick is like brand new.
Here are my settings:
Soldering station : 350 Celsius
Digital hot gun : 450 Celsius ( it's chinese so I can't really tell if that is the actual temperature). But I was able to remove the analog stick. And I didnt use any nozzles adaptors, I just used very closed to the motherboard for a short time. Flux is the must with soldering wire
I have used regular aluminum foil to protect parts that should not be heated. It is reflecting heat.
The most important tool was the soldering pump. Without it I wouldn't be able to create holes where the previous analog pins were. I have used some flux, then heat the hole with a soldering station on a 400 Celsius and the pump was directly on the hole as well. So working with those two at the same time, I was able to create holes. I was so happy when I saw that it was actually working. Some of them I had to repeat a couple of times until they were big enough so the pin from the new one can go through. I am extremely pleased that I was able to pull this through. I didn't ruin my joystick and now it's working like a brand new one. The equipment I have used, I have collected during a 6 month period. I hope this can help someone who might have questions like I did.
Thank you for the demo and for providing the links, really useful
Could you tell what temperature set on heat gun? Thank you
690-740°F is what I've been told I'm about to try tonight when I get home.
@@BleedingWhiteKnucklesdid you try? Did it work?
@@YvessLarue I set mine on 500w or about 700F, it did the job fast and easy
I just tried too and failed..... i dont have heat gun to melt all solder points at once.... using solder sucker and iron alone is not enough....
Did you did it ?
Hey buddy what temperature do you set the heat gun also do you apply any force when using the wick tape ? Thank you in advance
I use 450ºC and full speed, but it might be different from one heat gun to another. If you aren’t confident with your settings it’s recommended to test on a broken controller or other similar electronic device.
As for the wicking process, you only need to press lightly, just enough to make sure the wick is making contact with both the soldering tip and the hole you are trying to clear. Use plenty of flux and make sure you use enough temperature to make it boil and evaporate.
Again, is a matter of practice because there are multiple variables to account for like the size of the soldering tip, the quality of the wick itself, the type of flux, the thickness of the board, etc
The temperature is 350 degree, speed 5.
@@mrjarto Do I need a solder sucker or can I just put a bit of fresh solder then use a flux and wick to remove it?
Ive been stuck for weeks now trying to get the last one off mine and im out of patience. Do you do this for people and how much? Im very interested
Thank you for this, I wish I had seen it sooner. I think I might have destroyed some of the traces on the front trying to get the solder off. At least I can fix the rest and maybe use the controller for games that don't require the right stick
I'm trying to do the repair myself I have the heat station, Flux and Solder remover just not sure what temperature I should use and airflow number
Any help would very much appreciated please and thank you
Can I ask why you add solder once the stick is removed and then soak it up again with the braided strip. I’m new to this and just interested
Is that foil you add to the controller to cover the other stuff
He putted the foil to not transfer the heat to other components.
@@miniflash ok
What kind of wipes are those you're using to clean up the flux?
If the heat gun is 2 hot u can brake the motherboard so which hight are u using?
There’s a wire on the analog stick side of the board coming out of my controller (its not broken), can that be fixed? If so please tell. Also, what type of flux do you use?
what is that silver tape?
How many degrees By The Hot air
Probably a dumb question but I accidentally pulled out a wire that was soldered. Do I have to use a solder sucker/wick to completely remove the solder that's on the board then reapply?
Is flux needed when using the heat gun? Or can you just use the heat gun without flux
Flux is important as it removes oxides and helps the solder be a better conductor. You could do without but you might struggle. Also the solder used on Sony products is lead-free meaning it needs a higher melting point and is not as smooth as lead.
can you provide link for what replacement parts?
Do i need the hot air to remove the stick, cant this be done with just the wick ?
What are you using to hold the pcb stable while working? My helping hands aren't stable enough to let you pull the stick out.
Use a vice with gentle pressure
What happens if you burn the metal on the hole. Now I cant solder in one of the potentiometers I burned the metal on the hole. Is it ruined or can this be fixed? The rest of the controller i did flawless
Hi, I just replaced my joysticks. Thanks you for the video! But i now cannot charge the controller, the orange light flashes as though its charging but does not raise the battery bars. i may have knocked off an ic during the heating process. Are you able to shed some light on this as to which ic controls the charging? and or a schematic to compare mine to to see whats missing? mine is model CFI-ZCT1W Thanks
Have you problem solved? If not, gmajdgv@gmail.com is my email.
I'd like to see them replaced and then working. I've heard you can't replace them because they are calibrated at the factory.
yes, it does, nobody could keep the accurancy after replaced the joystick cause Sony not open the calibrate function.
What do you use at the last part to clean all those black burned marks and spots on the board? I just changed my analog right stick and all I get is a 3 times blinking orange light. Can you please help?
90%+ rubbing alcohol. the black is from burnt flux
Heat gun isn't necessary. SMD removal allow and solder wick is enough.
whats the tool u used to push out all of the extra rosin at 2:25 its like a gun or something
Solder sucker is used to remove the solder from the holes. Rosin is just the type of flux used on pcb's because of lower acidity.
@getit7107 do you know why is my anolgue stick melting when I use hot air?
what temperature had the hot air?
Any material you use for cleaning
90+ % isopropyl alcohol
Don't use anything lower as it has more water in it.
Can you fix ic power ds5
What temperature are you setting your heat gun?
I would like to know too. Whenever I do it, it melts the plastik on the analog sticks. I use 480°C and level 5 of airflow.
350c and fan speed 5
It depends, not everyone uses the exact same hot air station.
Its so hadd to desolder , once i remove the thumbstick i put a bit of soder wire then flux then i set my solder to around 395 with a big enough tip and put thread on the holes then solder to it but only manage to get 2 holes cleaned, also the thread seems to stick to the boars why is that?
sure it is not easy to remove the stick and clean the original solder on the PCB, but please do more and more then you'll find the well way..
i tried to remove one but i stripped the round pad, now the pin doesnt solder to the board, do you have a video showing how to repair it?
You are cooked
@@funnyfails1275 I thought so 😂
Thanks
What temperature is your solder on?
He said 350 if im not wrong
It's not that easy unless you have really fancy equipment. I'm assuming any gamer who just wants to repair their controller doesn' t have a pro soldering station or hot air. Anyways, I managed to remove the controller after 2 hours fight. Hot air, soldering iron, flux, solder sucker. Moderately cheap stuff. And it's never gonna come off that easily. What I had to do was use flux, add fresh low melt solder, use hot air to melt new and old solder, try to suck it. Repeat x50 ;) When I saw that the most of the solder was gone from the holes, I heated the pcb up again and tried to pry the stick off the board from the other side at the same time, using a plastic tool. Definitely not easy but worked eventually. One of the legs broke and I had to remove it separately from the hole which was pain in the arse too. After that, cleaning the holes and soldering in the new Hall controller was almost a pleasure. The Dual Sense works again which at least made it all worth while. Now I'm gonna do the same to my other Dual Sense that broke a few days ago so I looked if someone worked out a more comfortable way to do it. Apparently not. BTW, man, what an utter shit those controllers are...
What is that tape?
And proper 🤗
Please what is that orange tape?
Kapton tape
Why are you adding more if you want to remove it?
Heat transfer. If you add more then the heat transfers faster and you can remove bigger amounts easier with the solder sucker
damn u damaged the pads