Plastic welder would have worked better if he knew how to use it (idk why it put it here?) Anyway you got go until it's under the plastic and then turn it slightly
I would've loved to know what actually seems to work best instead of seeing just broken intentionally, if the intent is to break the damn thing it's gonna break but if the intent was to stress test it to see which can hold up the best when under a certain amount of force
@@thecodeking91 only pull the trigger for a moment, enough to get a couple layers in. Don't make it red hot. Also align the Staples lengthwise down the seam, not across.
I looked back, both broke (still really impressive). I think all of the methods are valid as long as you aren't aggressively trying to rip them into pieces
As someone who welds plastic as a job, cut the edges a bit of where you wanna weld them then i do recommend using similar tool he had in this video which was the melting tip so you just gently bind them together, and then for the finale have a heater gun and have the same plastic wire as the material you are welding, one hand slowly pushes the wire down while your other hand uses the heat gun to melt it down. Then when it cools off you cas use simple hand tools to clean it up and make it flat, even a simple metal sheet can do the trick just shaving off the top of the weld till you reach the flat surface, just let it fully cool of before doing this step.
@@TaMiCGarGit there are multiple materials and i do recommend checking what tempature each one requires, we use special tool which uses air from compressors and heats up the air to around 350 celsius and can do even more, it can also exchange the nozzles so you can have the melting tip or a tight air nozzle to blow at the wire, though there are rarely some plastics that require a special breathing tools so i do recommend checking that in case.
@@Supportik My concern was not healthwise but more due to the fact that PLA does not stand heat without heavy deformation. A soldering iron is more controles and precise
@wolf v it's actually not that hard and it's much stronger than superglue or a 3D pen I have a wide head for my soldering iron that I use specifically for joining 3D printed parts I basically push it into the model perpendicular to the seam so it ends up looking kinda like stitches only recessed and then I'll just use the soldering iron to reshape it and fill in any voids (which usually isn't necessary if I reshape it right) and while the end result isn't perfect I always sand my models before priming anyway so it's barely any extra work but I end up getting a much better/stronger result
I don't know much about 3d printing but how about having the 3d printed object made with connectors(like hooks or sockets). Would that work or just not the best practice?
@@mrpineapple3942 he had simple pieces in the vid. Odd many things you could use a CAD to combine them. Larger pieces shouldn’t be snapped apart aggressively in most cases
For ABS parts you can use a little bit of acetone. It dissolves the plastic into it, then when it evaporates you're left with one solid piece of plastic
I feel like there was a tape at the back of the plastic at the plastic welder part when he's snapping the plastic in half. can you see a little blue piece there or am I tripping
@@TheNamesArif holy shit i think you're right, i thought it was the blue in the middle you can see when he glues them but it doesn't break the same as the other stuff and the blue seems to hold together
@@natalyst It's not tape, it's a dado joint basically. You make a hole in each plastic part and stick something that fits halfway in each so when it comes together, it's a strong joint. This guy is just snapping them in half with quite a bit of strength for this material lol.
3d gloop. It's extremely strong and I've seen plastic on other sections of prints break before the glued section does. They make 3 specialized versions, one for pla, one for petg or other pet like materials, and one for abs
@@SkeletonTreatIndustries I've never had trouble using it on any shaped parts. I work on a lot of cosplay stuff as a business and gloop has always been what I've used. Once I started, I never went back to regular super glue
Personally I use super glue and I have not been able to break it apart! I super glued a handle onto a fairly large shredder I made and it is under constant torque, not broken yet!
This is what is called a butt joint (If I remember it correctly). It is the weakest possible connection between two pieces, since just about anything you use to connect them, you can pull them apart with minimal effort. You need two pieces that will fit together like a puzzle piece. After welding or nailing, it's neigh impossible to separate them without breaking them.
Well first of all I design them to fit together. Second of all I don't use a 3D pin like a glue gun. That's actually an important one. Third I find melting to be very effective.
@@nothere3982 Super Glue isn't some cheap glue that doesn't work. It is an cyanoacrylate adhesive which has an extremely strong bond. Sanding the edges of two plastic parts gives the glue much more surface to grip onto and bond the pieces together. Doing it the way he did in the video will never work and gives a false impression of the method being used.
@@nothere3982 This is a radical reaction if you're interested. It's part of organic chemistry where you have two different kind of radicals which form copolymers
"Aw gee, how can I possibly keep anything properly connected together when I have this powerful urge to break everything I own like a fucking animal? :( "
What you do is print first piece with pins and the second piece with holes so you can connect the two pieces together by inserting the pins in the holes, like puzzle pieces
@@Foxborne wrap it in tarp and make sure there is a opening at the bottom after that rip the legs off and close tarp flip over and cut opening on opposite side start with the head and then the arms and boom you have dinner
I use filament and a sodering iron and use it as a “gas stick welding at home” It works like normal stick welding, but now with plastic filament instead of copper rod
Solvent welding. Melts the edge of the plastics through a chemical reaction so they become 1 physical piece. Makes it as difficult to break as any other part of the project
That just smoothens out the roughness, is it possible to use it to weld? I mean you talking about ABS in alcohol vapors right? that'd only melt superficially to create a glossy surface
@@vinayakonimani7628 no, I'm referring to something along the lines of Plastic Welder like Micro Mark or the Citadel glue, where it uses a specific solvent or solvent blend with no dissolved polymer to create a joint between two thermoplastic parts. Essentially causing a chemical reaction to melt the surface of the parts and then melding them into one solid piece.
I like the melting technique. I just use my soldering iron and sink it deep between the seams to combine them. I then add additional plastic to the seam to fill the space.
Depends on what I'm modelling, but if it's the right type of functional print then I'll add pillars and/or holes so I can tap and thread for machine screws.
Plastic welders have strength in one direction (pulling) even on a car the recommend welding the seams apart for strength in all directions. So both would be a viable option. But I normally glue middle then weld seams glue is for deep mechanical bond and then you have permanent bond on the edges. Because on larger pieces welding seams doesn’t penetrate all the way so super glue solves that.
Generally speaking there are 3 physical ways of joining any part. 1. Form fit --> dove tails, snap fits, bow ties, typical wood joints, etc. 2. Friction or force bond --> screws, wedges, magnets, etc. 3. adhesive bond --> all types of glues, welds, soldering and melting It is best to combine them for example use a dove tail design to create a from fit for a strong connection and additionally use glue if the connection has to stay that way or wedges if you want to disassemble it some time later. Try to avoid using only one connection type and always remember the 3 connection types.
i use the actual filament reel and as solder and a soldering iron. Also some designed in pegs that slot together helps the glue bind better along with some sanding. Sanding helps glue a LOT
Use sandpaper on both side of the 3D printed items then use super glue. Increasing surface area means more glue could hold on. Sometimes i use few piece of shredded cotton ball on the side then super glue and sandpaper to smooth.
At a convention I went to, a company was advertising a solution that can melt different 3D printed parts together, and it's applied like glue. That way the plastic is connected like it was printed that way.
@@mcavity i've used it and it is pretty strong. It actually surprised me how strong the bond was. i've used wood glue in the past and wanted to try something else. Then i stumbled onto 3D Gloop and was a little skeptical at first, but it was pretty good !
I use superglue or machine screws, but if I use glue, I'll usually try to design the parts to have a friction fit when they're put together. That way, the glue is just helping make sure the parts don't wiggle loose over time.
epoxy glue with short round wooden dowels. I make holes in my parts that are the same size in CAD as the dowels. They will print undersized so i can drill out the holes a bit for a snug fit. I use these dowels for alignment and extra surface for epoxy. I use dowels and not printed connections because it saves on printing time, they fit well in standard drill size holes and are very strong.
I've been trying to make a table for years, I keep getting the first leg on and then snapping it off. I just don't understand how to get past this step.
I would imagine depending on the plastic that model glue would work well. Certain types melt and fuze the plastic. At that point you will just break it instead of breaking the seam
I take extra filament, light it up with a lighter until it bubbles then put it in between the two pieces and cut off the excess with the filament cutters
If you want it to hold stronger what I do is make an insert, I use the female end and out it's to a higher wall count to make it stronger and use superglue
With many ways of trying to connect 3D printed parts much like you mentioned in this short I ended up using kinda a bow tie method and once I figured that out I decided to make a chessboard and it worked perfectly had to do 32 prints though
More details and tests!
th-cam.com/video/f28CrAmsDfk/w-d-xo.html
Plastic welder would have worked better if he knew how to use it (idk why it put it here?) Anyway you got go until it's under the plastic and then turn it slightly
Ratio
Use FLEX TAPE bro...
Epidermix
Good men
I connect them with glue and just never aggressively snap them in half
Based
Lol
Yeah that works
Thank you! Basically every attempt worked! Snapping them apart aggressively will break anything lol
Lmao
I would've loved to know what actually seems to work best instead of seeing just broken intentionally, if the intent is to break the damn thing it's gonna break but if the intent was to stress test it to see which can hold up the best when under a certain amount of force
I think even whit this method you can see what is better
The plastic welder would’ve worked if he didn’t just use two stints and finished the welding process instead of just leaving it at the first step
3D printing glue works best. It's basically superglue specifically made for 3D printing materials such as PLA
It’s just a way to transition to the next one, he isn’t proving anything just showing the different ways you can do it
Melting is the best
If you use the plastic welder PROPERLY, you'll never have an issue, it also helps to simply not snap your parts in half.
@@thecodeking91 only pull the trigger for a moment, enough to get a couple layers in. Don't make it red hot. Also align the Staples lengthwise down the seam, not across.
It also works if you use it on the person who's snapping your stuff's hands
@@bluerabbitboiunderrated
Exactly😂
-Nails and glues two pieces of wood
-Hits them with an axe
Lol 😂
"I'm going to do this the shittiest way I could imagine" "WHY DID IT BREAK?!"
😂😂
Lol
Exactly, this video is crap
I'm I the only one who saw the plastic welder and thought of jarhead
He never questioned any of the methods, pretty sure he was breaking them in half to show the effectivess of each method..
"How to connect two 3d printed parts together?"
By not snapping it in half right where it's at the weakest.
Lmao i was trying to find this comment And i found it !
Only 1 comment?
@@mitchellimanuel3536 3 actually
@@just_a_dead_dude Wrong. 4
@@view2me no you weren’t
I'd like to mention that the pen works so well that the sheets broke, the seam didn't
I looked back, both broke (still really impressive). I think all of the methods are valid as long as you aren't aggressively trying to rip them into pieces
Yeah and the way he showed us how he used the pen is unrealistic. No one would ever just put random strings loose on there like that.
As someone who welds plastic as a job, cut the edges a bit of where you wanna weld them then i do recommend using similar tool he had in this video which was the melting tip so you just gently bind them together, and then for the finale have a heater gun and have the same plastic wire as the material you are welding, one hand slowly pushes the wire down while your other hand uses the heat gun to melt it down. Then when it cools off you cas use simple hand tools to clean it up and make it flat, even a simple metal sheet can do the trick just shaving off the top of the weld till you reach the flat surface, just let it fully cool of before doing this step.
Now this is a quality answer
@@TaMiCGarGit there are multiple materials and i do recommend checking what tempature each one requires, we use special tool which uses air from compressors and heats up the air to around 350 celsius and can do even more, it can also exchange the nozzles so you can have the melting tip or a tight air nozzle to blow at the wire, though there are rarely some plastics that require a special breathing tools so i do recommend checking that in case.
heat gun is a NO NO with PLA ... a soldering iron however is ok.
@@fabioarrua Obviously masks are required to for some types of materials.
@@Supportik My concern was not healthwise but more due to the fact that PLA does not stand heat without heavy deformation. A soldering iron is more controles and precise
The plastic “welder” is just to hold the parts together while you actually weld with high heat nitrogen plastic welder and filler rod.
@wolf v I just use a soldering iron and some extra filament
@wolf v it's actually not that hard and it's much stronger than superglue or a 3D pen I have a wide head for my soldering iron that I use specifically for joining 3D printed parts I basically push it into the model perpendicular to the seam so it ends up looking kinda like stitches only recessed and then I'll just use the soldering iron to reshape it and fill in any voids (which usually isn't necessary if I reshape it right) and while the end result isn't perfect I always sand my models before priming anyway so it's barely any extra work but I end up getting a much better/stronger result
I don't know much about 3d printing but how about having the 3d printed object made with connectors(like hooks or sockets). Would that work or just not the best practice?
@@slashhack1463 unlikely to get more strength than another method and adds more complexity if joins are supposed to be rigid and now they are not.
Knew there was a way and that this fool was just trying to get attention
Ahh yes, the classic “let’s incorrectly use every tool for clickbait.”
This is a genuine question for people starting out 3D printing
@@victorkelly7348 huh?
@@victorkelly7348 Yeah but he didn't awnser the question
@@usernametaken017 yeah he did the question was “how do you connect two 3D printed parts together” and he showed a variety of ways to do it
@@randomlychangingguy6209 He showed the WRONG ways to use them
Like welding, you should try V notching the parts before belting any kind of bond into the surface. This will give you depth to the item.
yep....the ol'trusty beveling
Screws of course, you missed that 😂
Haha indeed!
@@UncleJessy I’m planning on getting a 3d printer
I guess Jessy screwed up that one
@@shaolinkitsune4705 Quickly! Stop him before he bolts!
@@bob_1845 nice
"How do you like to combine two 3d printed parts?"
*_In the design software, before actually printing them_*
You can’t always print a build in full, so you may have to slice it up in that software, so you can actually print it
Based
@@mrpineapple3942 he had simple pieces in the vid. Odd many things you could use a CAD to combine them. Larger pieces shouldn’t be snapped apart aggressively in most cases
@@knicks5426 yes, but he was demonstrating how to put pieces together, assuming you had to slice it in the design software because it was so big.
When im design something i always tryna put a hole that fit a popsicle stick inside for small one
For ABS parts you can use a little bit of acetone. It dissolves the plastic into it, then when it evaporates you're left with one solid piece of plastic
That loop was clean
Intresting how he seems to have focused on making it seem like the shit breaks no matter what. Never did anything on both sides.
He even made breaking points when he melted the plastic
I feel like there was a tape at the back of the plastic at the plastic welder part when he's snapping the plastic in half. can you see a little blue piece there or am I tripping
@@TheNamesArif holy shit i think you're right, i thought it was the blue in the middle you can see when he glues them but it doesn't break the same as the other stuff and the blue seems to hold together
@@natalyst It's not tape, it's a dado joint basically. You make a hole in each plastic part and stick something that fits halfway in each so when it comes together, it's a strong joint. This guy is just snapping them in half with quite a bit of strength for this material lol.
Me * *Prints one single part* * , * *breaks it* * gosh it breaks too
Yess
That's what I'm saying
To be frank, depending on orientation, it would have been stronger than his shitty joints lol
3d gloop. It's extremely strong and I've seen plastic on other sections of prints break before the glued section does. They make 3 specialized versions, one for pla, one for petg or other pet like materials, and one for abs
Hart to use on awkward parts tho but it is nice on flat straight and other easier shapes to work with.
@@SkeletonTreatIndustries I've never had trouble using it on any shaped parts. I work on a lot of cosplay stuff as a business and gloop has always been what I've used. Once I started, I never went back to regular super glue
*3D gloop has left the chat*
I love how he used almost none of the tools right
Imma just get rid of it no fighting
Ye without the almost
True
I tell them that they deserve to be with one another while I gaslight one into the relationship.
YES
Amazing
🍷🗿
Lmfao
Enfp?
🤣
The thing is us people aren’t running around and trying to snap our 3-D printed things in half
Personally I use super glue and I have not been able to break it apart! I super glued a handle onto a fairly large shredder I made and it is under constant torque, not broken yet!
I've always used the super glue method but for bigger Functional prints i figure welding would be the way to go. (satisfying snaps all round tho.)
Weld and then melt to make it look vetter
Well if he knew how to weld plastic it would have been
That 3d pen surprised me how well it held together
That's not a plastic welder and if it was that wouldn't break so easily
This is what is called a butt joint (If I remember it correctly). It is the weakest possible connection between two pieces, since just about anything you use to connect them, you can pull them apart with minimal effort. You need two pieces that will fit together like a puzzle piece. After welding or nailing, it's neigh impossible to separate them without breaking them.
I thought it was vaseline
@@xiplication my woodshop teacher said it was a butt joint, but we both might be right
Exactly what I thought, a few dovetail joints would strengthen it no end
Its actually not, if you look there are wafers that connect the two parts
Thanks
The best way to put two free printed parts together is to just print them to the other not apart
what if they're bigger than the printer when they're together
Well first of all I design them to fit together.
Second of all I don't use a 3D pin like a glue gun. That's actually an important one.
Third I find melting to be very effective.
I use a wood burning. Not only does it bind them but it cleans it up nicely. A bit if sanding and you won’t even notice it was 2 pieces.
If you sand the edges of those two pieces before using Super Glue, it will help it bond much stronger and be harder to snap like that.
Why is that?
@@nothere3982 Super Glue isn't some cheap glue that doesn't work. It is an cyanoacrylate adhesive which has an extremely strong bond.
Sanding the edges of two plastic parts gives the glue much more surface to grip onto and bond the pieces together. Doing it the way he did in the video will never work and gives a false impression of the method being used.
@@landfallstudio3482 that's cool. I was wondering about the bonds between the materials
@@nothere3982 This is a radical reaction if you're interested. It's part of organic chemistry where you have two different kind of radicals which form copolymers
"Aw gee, how can I possibly keep anything properly connected together when I have this powerful urge to break everything I own like a fucking animal? :( "
FuNnY jOkE!1!1!1!1!1
👍👍👍👍
I'm sorry
Bro, it’s testing durability so yeah your gonna push it to the edge lmao
@@BtlSomme alway be testin the durability of human skulls, and for some reason I’m wanted for murder? It’s crazy.
@@Irequiresustenance1285 Thats what im talking about
😂😂😂
What you do is print first piece with pins and the second piece with holes so you can connect the two pieces together by inserting the pins in the holes, like puzzle pieces
Superglue works fine. The layer lines break before the glue does
I still can’t figure out how to keep them together I just get this urge to rip them apart the second they come into my line of sight
Newborns?
@@Foxborne yes I have also learned how to do it with the least mess wanna learn?
@@cadenbos2713 yes please
@@Foxborne wrap it in tarp and make sure there is a opening at the bottom after that rip the legs off and close tarp flip over and cut opening on opposite side start with the head and then the arms and boom you have dinner
@@cadenbos2713 damn that's a life hack right there. When I'm cooking dinner for my pet octopus. The blood just goes everywhere
I use filament and a sodering iron and use it as a “gas stick welding at home”
It works like normal stick welding, but now with plastic filament instead of copper rod
@@Its_Captain_Jack_Sparrow acetylene gas welding, not tig, i havent done tig yet
more like brazing but yeah thats cool, ive never though of doing that
Print them as one part I know right that's so unimaginably smart
Flex Tape & Duct Tape: "Out of the way Pecks!"
Bro you breaking so hard, a solid 3d Print would just break
I've been using resin glue + UV and it works super well! Great bonding with PLA.
Thanks for sharing!
Had to scour the comments section for any actual ideas. Thanks for your suggestion
@@VDOless It works super well! Been using it for all of my prints lately (when needed)
Nothing this man cannot break in two.
Mortise and tenon joints added prior to printing. Also works with tongue and groove. Epoxy together and it’s just as strong as a single print
"How to connect two 3d printed parts together?"
Breaks the entire thing like a peanut brittle
Solvent welding. Melts the edge of the plastics through a chemical reaction so they become 1 physical piece.
Makes it as difficult to break as any other part of the project
That just smoothens out the roughness, is it possible to use it to weld? I mean you talking about ABS in alcohol vapors right? that'd only melt superficially to create a glossy surface
@@vinayakonimani7628 no, I'm referring to something along the lines of Plastic Welder like Micro Mark or the Citadel glue, where it uses a specific solvent or solvent blend with no dissolved polymer to create a joint between two thermoplastic parts.
Essentially causing a chemical reaction to melt the surface of the parts and then melding them into one solid piece.
@@eliluttrell7637 i see
@@eliluttrell7637 Citadel glue is fantastic but I hate the bottle, the applicator always gets so clogged
Couldn't you just pencil weld them..?
"I connect them with love, like i do to people"
-Some single guy
Love does get sticky if you rub it right 😌🙄
@@MMMM-sv1lk Yeah youre right
@@MMMM-sv1lk wait🤨📸📸
@@MMMM-sv1lk NONONONO 💀
I love the sound of the plastic welder touching the plastic
There's this new thing going around to help with layer adhesions where you bury a part with 100 in fill and it makes the part stronger
This guy has the mindset; "you can break anything with enough force"
"Let's see how you connect two-- ÆEEEÜUUUGH" 🤣🤣🤣
The plastic welder made a vary satisfying sound
Me, I would print them combined 😂
I connect them in the CAD software and then print them
Alternative : Make a new 3D Print with connected design 🙂
Yep
My same comment; 'reprint as one 😲'
@@electech_5495 ikr 😫
@@electech_5495 it would take a pretty long time
My school has a bunch of really really small printers though, like much bigger than 5x5 inches doesn't work
I like the melting technique. I just use my soldering iron and sink it deep between the seams to combine them. I then add additional plastic to the seam to fill the space.
Depends on what I'm modelling, but if it's the right type of functional print then I'll add pillars and/or holes so I can tap and thread for machine screws.
"Lets see how tou like too combine 2- *AuGhHu* "
I’m a welder. You have to get penatration to both sides of the groove. It will always break easier when you force against the weld.
shouldn't he have welded it all the way up diagonally?
Anyone wanna talk about how they weren't connected either there was a good like 8th apart
JB Weld. Never misses.
For parts that need a strong connection (and I am going to sand later anyway), I use 2 part fiberglass resin. I fill in the gaps and coat the top.
just print them together 🗿
some prints are too big to be printed all at once, like a sword for cosplay, or bunch of pieces for a suit
@@cal_ren778 It’s just a joke bro
@@Vinces_Animations You aren't OP, don't assume unless they say so. You would be surprised by just who is serious about what.
@@OtakuUnitedStudio Well he used the emoji so I thought it was a joke… I’m sorry
Plastic welders have strength in one direction (pulling) even on a car the recommend welding the seams apart for strength in all directions.
So both would be a viable option.
But I normally glue middle then weld seams glue is for deep mechanical bond and then you have permanent bond on the edges.
Because on larger pieces welding seams doesn’t penetrate all the way so super glue solves that.
I haven't done it but I imagine combing the melting and plastic welder would be the absolute best.
Generally speaking there are 3 physical ways of joining any part.
1. Form fit --> dove tails, snap fits, bow ties, typical wood joints, etc.
2. Friction or force bond --> screws, wedges, magnets, etc.
3. adhesive bond --> all types of glues, welds, soldering and melting
It is best to combine them for example use a dove tail design to create a from fit for a strong connection and additionally use glue if the connection has to stay that way or wedges if you want to disassemble it some time later. Try to avoid using only one connection type and always remember the 3 connection types.
You didnt use the plastic welder even remotely correct but good effort ig lol
I make sure to weld all seems of my two sides and this guy didn’t try at all😂
It still goes to show its efficiency
@@Jojo-rm4mo It doesn’t, but ok. All we saw was how not to weld two plastic pieces together, lol.
@@landfallstudio3482 I mean it was more effective than other methods, even when welded improperly
@@landfallstudio3482 it does, but okay
"Print them together so they make a solid square"
* Breaks the square in half anyway *
Bro he was connecting them fine with some of them so he literally broke through the pieces themselves and said it didn't work.
I use Qbond super glue with a beveled edge then use a 3D pen to “weld” the bevel. Works like a charm!
People are focused more on him snapping it than the actual question. I like glue or melting with soldering tip
"Lets see you can connect too"
Flex tape! Duh
*_NOW THAT'S A LOTTA DAMAGE!_*
i use the actual filament reel and as solder and a soldering iron. Also some designed in pegs that slot together helps the glue bind better along with some sanding. Sanding helps glue a LOT
I saw a design where the parts have pieces of a thread and you print a cap that threads on keeping rhem bound together.
I use both a 20w soldering iron and E6000 Or I solder/glue a strip to the back of the seam as well as the seam itself.
Use sandpaper on both side of the 3D printed items then use super glue. Increasing surface area means more glue could hold on. Sometimes i use few piece of shredded cotton ball on the side then super glue and sandpaper to smooth.
3D Gloop for PLA of course!
People's liberation army?
@@CasperTheRamKnight no please leave at
The welder sounds like a futuristic door opening
no one is talking about the perfectly timed burp.
Bro was like
“Lemme try my hardest to break them and say it was just weak 👍”
when did he say it was just weak??????
@@EXTR Yeah, that's what I'm wondering. All he did was break them apart after sticking them together...
At a convention I went to, a company was advertising a solution that can melt different 3D printed parts together, and it's applied like glue. That way the plastic is connected like it was printed that way.
3D Gloop! Just realized it’s missing from this post 🤦♂️🤦♂️
So it's like plastic cement? Used model kits? If it works with whatever plastic is used in a 3d print it will be the best option.
@@UncleJessy well I'm interested..
@@mcavity i've used it and it is pretty strong. It actually surprised me how strong the bond was. i've used wood glue in the past and wanted to try something else. Then i stumbled onto 3D Gloop and was a little skeptical at first, but it was pretty good !
So PVC cement like everyone already uses in plumbing...
Iv used plastic weld, similar to super glue but chemically welds them together. pretty strong
I use superglue or machine screws, but if I use glue, I'll usually try to design the parts to have a friction fit when they're put together. That way, the glue is just helping make sure the parts don't wiggle loose over time.
epoxy glue with short round wooden dowels. I make holes in my parts that are the same size in CAD as the dowels. They will print undersized so i can drill out the holes a bit for a snug fit. I use these dowels for alignment and extra surface for epoxy. I use dowels and not printed connections because it saves on printing time, they fit well in standard drill size holes and are very strong.
Uncle Jessy: Dosen't know how to stick
Me: FLEX TAPE
in theory, you could do the weld, then melt over the weld to smooth the surface
With the glue, sand the plastic parts beforehand, it gives it a better surface to adhere to
I've been trying to make a table for years, I keep getting the first leg on and then snapping it off. I just don't understand how to get past this step.
Make an interlocking mechanism and glue them together? Idk i have no experience with 3d printing
@@siddhantamallick6837 I have a feeling its a joke but I really have no Idea what the punchline is. Maybe I'm stupid? 🤷♂️
When he did the plastic weld it wasn’t connected fully, there was space in the middle that allowed it to break easily
This was so awesome I'm glad I spent my time watching it.
I love these videos SO SATISFYING
"How to connect 2 3d printed parts together?"
Not do it correctly sometimes
-this guy
''How do you like to combine two 3d printed parts together"
me: nuke it
Printer God: THE HOT WELDER
???
@@SatinBlxk bro say something
@wonky donky can we stop for a second
That only separate it's atoms.
Bro was branding his prints like cattle
There is special welding glue that dissolves the plastic and fuses the pieces together. Use that
I would imagine depending on the plastic that model glue would work well. Certain types melt and fuze the plastic. At that point you will just break it instead of breaking the seam
PLA can't be chemically fused.
@@christopher_navoni that's dumb, what about the other kind of resin? The dip one. I'm not familiar with 3d printing stuff.
@@betafishjeremy7454 that’s a different type of printer altogether bud
“How to connect two 3d printed parts”
*shows you every way not to connect 3d printed parts*
Use me as the dislike button
@@coffeemanwantsumcoffee no 😎
I take extra filament, light it up with a lighter until it bubbles then put it in between the two pieces and cut off the excess with the filament cutters
i love how he had to break the print to open it
I thought he was gonna share a tip, but he's asking for help
XD
"How do u like to combine ur 3parts"
Me:Tape
If you want it to hold stronger what I do is make an insert, I use the female end and out it's to a higher wall count to make it stronger and use superglue
With many ways of trying to connect 3D printed parts much like you mentioned in this short I ended up using kinda a bow tie method and once I figured that out I decided to make a chessboard and it worked perfectly had to do 32 prints though
Him: how do you combine two 3d printed parts?
Me: ummmm I dont
An actual answer would be helpful 😋
melting it is best, his technique wasn't great though
Now try breaking a whole 3D printed square, it’ll still snap