I think this is your most Zen oil change video yet. 😊 My own method is less beginner friendly as after removing the pan protector from the bottom of the engine I ride the absolute Snot out of my bikes shifting through every singoe gear up and down and then immediately dump the oil knowing full well it is at maximum full running temperature. The reason being is I want to flush all the gears, clutch plates and settled shed clutch material up into suspension within the hot oil and them dump it out removng as much suspension junk as I can leaving a super clean engine to put new clean oil in. I did not want to leave sediment and spent clutch material (think sand paper or brake pad material) in the engine only to pour new oil in and seal it and then immediately mix up the settled junk in the motor and load the new oil up prematurely with junk. You cannot get this level of service when a dealer or shop sevices your bike so you have to do your own oil changes to get this level of flush on oil change. But beginners won't like the risk of burns if they are sloppy at removing the oil bolt. Dealers and shops won't run bikes in for service to temperature and if you rode your bike to the dealer flogging the Snot out of it then it will only sit for ages in the work queue before a technician gets around to it allowing all the junk to just resettle removing any benefit to enhanced engine life.
Nice and informative video. Interesting to see how the 390 engine oil change is done. Good practice to half the oil change intervals. I have a 790 Duke and I can see some similarities in parts and ideas of prefilter screens and such. Maybe the 790 engine oil change is easier cuz every bolt and cover is on the same side of the engine block. Cheers!
Excellent Nick. With respect may I suggest copper anti-seize on bolts instead. You were definitely right to do this at 300 miles, especially with KTM's somewhat dodgy reputation in some countries for how they honour their warranty.🕊
I'm considering changing my oiil 1 month before scheduled service since I'm going to Arctic Circle Raceway next weekend. Fresh oil while giving her te beans would just be a precaution
Nick, Did your oil change help out your shifting and finding neutral. Great idea to change the oil soon to get ride of all of the break in swarf in the engine. Wishing you and Jodie the best.
I appreciate the videos on basic maintenance. They add variety to your content. Could the oil filter be coaxed out with a strong magnet? It sounds a bit mad but would prevent clumsy people like me scratching the casings.🙄🤗
its worth a try, i'll give it a go as I will be doing the first service in a couple weeks (at 600), it will be a similar video but with 300 mile update with additional safety checks, adjustment and chain tension. ( i know i said i was going main dealer but i'm going to do it myself again)
Are facing any oil decrease problem in ur bike after every 2000kms. Because am using motul 10w50 engine oil in my 1 month old ktm 390 adventure. . Do u think castrol is good?
After the first couple of oil changes it's fine to follow a more normal schedule. The first service is always done after a few hundred. Note the metal pieces? This is from the new parts bedding in and this oil change is crucial to the engines future life. As is a proper running in period. Flog it warm after 1000 kms - as the manufacturer states. Future oil changes will not have this amount of metal in the filters - ordinarily. Far from wasting oil - this oil change at this time is essential. Good work with the detail - torques specs etc.
I think this is your most Zen oil change video yet. 😊 My own method is less beginner friendly as after removing the pan protector from the bottom of the engine I ride the absolute Snot out of my bikes shifting through every singoe gear up and down and then immediately dump the oil knowing full well it is at maximum full running temperature. The reason being is I want to flush all the gears, clutch plates and settled shed clutch material up into suspension within the hot oil and them dump it out removng as much suspension junk as I can leaving a super clean engine to put new clean oil in. I did not want to leave sediment and spent clutch material (think sand paper or brake pad material) in the engine only to pour new oil in and seal it and then immediately mix up the settled junk in the motor and load the new oil up prematurely with junk. You cannot get this level of service when a dealer or shop sevices your bike so you have to do your own oil changes to get this level of flush on oil change. But beginners won't like the risk of burns if they are sloppy at removing the oil bolt. Dealers and shops won't run bikes in for service to temperature and if you rode your bike to the dealer flogging the Snot out of it then it will only sit for ages in the work queue before a technician gets around to it allowing all the junk to just resettle removing any benefit to enhanced engine life.
You are absolutely right, this is why I do my own work.
Hi Nick. Another useful maintenance video, especially for those who haven`t done much home maintenance before. Ride safe 👍
Cheers Dave
Nice video. Easy to follow. And with what we need to use and torque settings too. 😊
Glad it was helpful!
Good video, I usually use diesel to clean oil passages.
Diesel is an excellent cleaner
Looking forward to the execution of the VALVE service - performed by YOU 😀😀
Yes I will be doing this at 10k (if I still own it then lol)
Lovely job bro.. cheers and love from India 🤗
Thank you !
Nice and informative video. Interesting to see how the 390 engine oil change is done. Good practice to half the oil change intervals.
I have a 790 Duke and I can see some similarities in parts and ideas of prefilter screens and such.
Maybe the 790 engine oil change is easier cuz every bolt and cover is on the same side of the engine block. Cheers!
I wouldn't mind a 790 myself !
Lovely vid! Max chill 😅 What is the spray? A car detailing APC or something?
It's brake cleaner. Cheers for watching
Excellent Nick. With respect may I suggest copper anti-seize on bolts instead. You were definitely right to do this at 300 miles, especially with KTM's somewhat dodgy reputation in some countries for how they honour their warranty.🕊
Absolutely
The battery on my 2023 390 Adv died just after 150 miles. Of course it was not covered by their warranty.
Too many loop holes with the warranty. That's why it ain't worth the paper it's written on.
Hi, first thing first? a great thanks for the torque value. And now, how do you reset the "maintenance" warning ?😀
At the end of the video
What did you spray from that white bottle, Nick?
Brake and clutch cleaner
@@nicksepisode ❤ awesome thanks
Great video. Was hoping the lower filter was the same as the standard Duke 390. The exhaust appears to cover it and looks a pain to remove.
Oh damn
I'm considering changing my oiil 1 month before scheduled service since I'm going to Arctic Circle Raceway next weekend. Fresh oil while giving her te beans would just be a precaution
Sounds like a good idea
A very informative video 👍
Glad you think so!
Nice post Nick...
Nick,
Did your oil change help out your shifting and finding neutral. Great idea to change the oil soon to get ride of all of the break in swarf in the engine. Wishing you and Jodie the best.
Hi Rick, Yes, changing the oil helped a lot. Bikes has now covered 1200 miles, and it's spot on.
I appreciate the videos on basic maintenance. They add variety to your content. Could the oil filter be coaxed out with a strong magnet? It sounds a bit mad but would prevent clumsy people like me scratching the casings.🙄🤗
its worth a try, i'll give it a go as I will be doing the first service in a couple weeks (at 600), it will be a similar video but with 300 mile update with additional safety checks, adjustment and chain tension. ( i know i said i was going main dealer but i'm going to do it myself again)
@@nicksepisode I'll look forward to that. Pleased that my suggestion wasn't just bonkers!!
We will find out haha 😄
Better to replace the filter kit then cleaning and using especially the oil filter
See my next video
Not sure about spraying cleaner where the filter goes chance it may enter the engine.
This cleaner evaporates, so all good
What liquid were you spraying in your pressure bottle to clean with?
Brake cleaner
What is the spray you are using to clean it?
brake cleaner
Were you using torque wrench? Is it okay to use normal wrench?
yes, be gentle on the oil filter bolts though
Good informative video.
Are facing any oil decrease problem in ur bike after every 2000kms. Because am using motul 10w50 engine oil in my 1 month old ktm 390 adventure. . Do u think castrol is good?
Castrol is good. Yes oil consumption is high in this bike
I need to get out more if you’re on 300 miles already 😎👍
Enjoying the weather while it's good ! Lol
I did the same thing. Filters were dirty with particles. Why wait?
yeah exactly
whay u re use the oldoil filter its bad for re use .
This is replaced in the next 300.miles
See my other video
You cant change oils and filters to often if you ask me
agreed
Am i correct in saying that you are a mechanic
indeed
@@nicksepisode and a man of few words 👍🤣🤣
@@johncollins2966 absolutely
@stevem7797 I wouldn't recommend loctite
, these are prone to corrosion here. No idea why the manual suggests that.
He reuse the old filter
I replaced it after another 300 miles
Some people just like to waste oil I guess. You gain nothing changing at 300. Peace of mind maybe?
You see the swarf that come out. It was definitely worth doing
After the first couple of oil changes it's fine to follow a more normal schedule. The first service is always done after a few hundred. Note the metal pieces? This is from the new parts bedding in and this oil change is crucial to the engines future life. As is a proper running in period. Flog it warm after 1000 kms - as the manufacturer states. Future oil changes will not have this amount of metal in the filters - ordinarily. Far from wasting oil - this oil change at this time is essential. Good work with the detail - torques specs etc.