Watching your videos is so informative. I am in the process of building my 1995 manual into a 06 Ford. Also staying below 450 hp but will have a build a transmission. I asked multiple questions to different vendors and getting different answers. Especially when it comes to turbo, delivery valve and injector related questions.
@@christiaanajcronje yep, in the next couple years i will be do hundreds of video's on this, If your interested in helping support the info, keep posted for when i have the dyno mech packages up and ready for sale
I have a 94 dually automatic 4x4. 160 hp pump. 230k miles. Pump its stock. Full plate its stock. all stock turbo. I bougth injectors set from a guy. He said they were 100hp injectors. All was good for some months. Now i have a stumble, rough spot at 1100 to 1300 rpm. At drive or at park or neutral same thing. This is making my transmition to go crazy. I put a friend to push on pedal at the 1200 rpms then i did test on injectors. I disconected 1 by 1 and all injectors seen to be working ok. I did change the diesel filter and the rough spot almost get away like 80%. Then 2 weeks later it comes back like 100% again. I have a tork teck adjusteble ofv. Truck runs good at idle. And also after pass 1300 rpms. From 1100 to 1300 its bad. I dont have boost leaks. My turbo makes 25 psi easy. At high rpms. Pyrometer never pass 1000 maximum. Fuel pressure 26 and up at high rpms and like 20 at low. Looking at your videos, i guess i need to change my 131 delivery v. To a 181. Maybe it take care of the 1100 to 1300 rpms engine failure. It is a fuel related issue. Becase after i put a new fuel filter, the truck almost runs ok for a few days. What advice can you give me. Gracias amigo.
I appreciate your information on part 3 with the delivery valves and injectors. I have done some basic improvements on my 98 12 valve. I have put a bank 4 in exhaust, and stage 2 100 horse power injectors, a fleece performance 63 mil turbocharger, Number 10 fill plate. I plan on modifying my AFC housing and getting some 4K Governor springs. At this time would it be a good idea to get some bigger delivery valves and bump my timing up. thanks
Hey Rob! Your videos are awesome and I love watching! What would you suggest to run a s364.5/73/.83 on a 97 12v with 4kgsk 60lb valvesprings and right now 5x12 injector nozzles on stock bodies
Just want to say thank you for these vids. When I do build that 6.7 hybrid, I will be looking for some custom injectors from you. I would buy all I could from ya, but down in the lower 48, shipping would kill me. I've been eyeing Industrial Injection's builder box series for a short block. Was looking at their performance package but, for 3k more I get the 14mm mains and girdle with the race package. Of course I'll have to custom order the 12v pistons in the kit. I may as well do my bottom end once and add the power as I go.
I currently have a 230 hp cummins in an 18k lbs. RV. I would like to be in the 300 hp range and be able to keep low egts and keep it cool for hills, high elevation and towing a 3800lbs car behind it. So I should set the timing at 17 degrees, install mack rack plug, remove 2mm from afc foot, move the fuel plate forward, then change the washer and set the afc housing in the middle to start adjust the star wheel? Have you seen real power numbers from aftermarket exhaust manifolds and do they lower egts? I think an hx35 would get me by, but I heard the k27 will lower egts, but will it spool down low 1700-1800? Thanks for all you do, I learn so much!
the mods and adjustment is a good starting spot. the manifold i don't have power numbers for them myself ( but i will when i buy a dyno ) . the kz27 does move more air. but the tight hot housing on it for a rv use might be small.
I have the same set up and goals as twinturbo327 I bought mine used someone installed EGT and altered pump but IDK what was done. I will have to look it over. My question is the EGT gauge probe a couple inches above turbo in exhaust manifold. What numbers should I be looking for? I'm getting Ford friends telling me lower #s than I can get , but they also say probe should be downstream of turbo.
@@CUTTERUPROB I have the same set up and goals as twinturbo327 I bought mine used someone installed EGT and altered pump but IDK what was done. I will have to look it over. My question is the EGT gauge probe a couple inches above turbo in exhaust manifold. What numbers should I be looking for? I'm getting Ford friends telling me lower #s than I can get , but they also say probe should be downstream of turbo.
@@CUTTERUPROB Thanks. Driving it home, 70 mph I was running about 1150 on level not pulling anything. That makes me nervous to pull with it in current state.
Hey Rob, could you do a video on the four different Bosch P7100 pumps 160 - 175 - 180 - 215's & how they operate to supply fuel. What distinguishes the difference and internal parts making them different from each other. Any interchangeability between internals, # identification and or any other information on the pumps. Thank you
this is really great info from someone who seems to have done it all himself already and learned the mistakes, i appreciate it coming from a point of view that the biggest most expensive thing isnt what everyone needs and mentioning things like used delivery valves comes in these trucks so if a friends is swapping his stock ones theyd be an upgrade for your truck i dont know if i missed it but seems like you didnt mention a fuel plate change and boost elbow delete,adjustment, seems to be what the facebook types recommend get a #6 plate or delete it altogether, add gov springs, valve springs, guages, let the boost goto 30psi and watch your transmission cry, is this a silly amateur way to approach getting 300-350 hp or is a pretty budget friendly quick way to max out the stock components if you dont plan to go past 350hp
alot of pump parts you can reuse, dv's / springs / plates. i talk about othe mods on some of the other video's. i have always found if you want a good running 300-350hp i don't do it the cheap mod way . i like to do a parts to take the stress off the pump
I appreciate your information on part 3 with the delivery valves and injectors. I have done some basic improvements on my 98 12 valve. I have put a bank 4 in exhaust, and stage 2 100 horse power injectors, a fleece performance 63 mil turbocharger, Number 10 fill plate. I plan on modifying my AFC housing and getting some 4K Governor springs. At this time would it be a good idea to get some bigger delivery valves and bump my timing up. thanks
Hey Rob just curious but if you will be using Bosch OEM injectors, are you considering having the nozzles extrude honed by using the microflow process or do you plan to have the existing holes ovesized using EDM. I'm hooked on watching your channel by the way. Thank you for all the information you provide to us!
I have about 20 different nozzles that i can use for all kinds of power levels. these are stock Bosch nozzles for different applications, ( I will only use Bosch parts ) , i can have nozzles edm and or honed. I just don't see the point in modding a nozzle when we can use a bosch nozzles that will last 100 thousands of miles service. if you want really big nozzles then we have to but that stuff doesn't get alot miles put on it. Thanks for watching !
hey rob i have a rollback with ppump 12 valve and it has a hesitation in the mid range rpm range 1800-2200 and it coughs white smoke did injector tips gov springs 0 fuel plate afc spring any help would be great thanks
Watching your videos is so informative. I am in the process of building my 1995 manual into a 06 Ford. Also staying below 450 hp but will have a build a transmission. I asked multiple questions to different vendors and getting different answers.
Especially when it comes to turbo, delivery valve and injector related questions.
there is a lot of way of making the power, this is the reason i want to buy a dyno so we can do video's to show that difference,
@@CUTTERUPROB Thanks for the reply and as is with a lot of things the more you learn the more questions arise but these videos are so informative.
@@christiaanajcronje yep, in the next couple years i will be do hundreds of video's on this, If your interested in helping support the info, keep posted for when i have the dyno mech packages up and ready for sale
I have a 94 dually automatic 4x4. 160 hp pump. 230k miles. Pump its stock. Full plate its stock. all stock turbo.
I bougth injectors set from a guy. He said they were 100hp injectors. All was good for some months. Now i have a stumble, rough spot at 1100 to 1300 rpm. At drive or at park or neutral same thing. This is making my transmition to go crazy. I put a friend to push on pedal at the 1200 rpms then i did test on injectors. I disconected 1 by 1 and all injectors seen to be working ok. I did change the diesel filter and the rough spot almost get away like 80%. Then 2 weeks later it comes back like 100% again. I have a tork teck adjusteble ofv. Truck runs good at idle. And also after pass 1300 rpms. From 1100 to 1300 its bad. I dont have boost leaks. My turbo makes 25 psi easy. At high rpms. Pyrometer never pass 1000 maximum. Fuel pressure 26 and up at high rpms and like 20 at low. Looking at your videos, i guess i need to change my 131 delivery v. To a 181. Maybe it take care of the 1100 to 1300 rpms engine failure. It is a fuel related issue. Becase after i put a new fuel filter, the truck almost runs ok for a few days. What advice can you give me. Gracias amigo.
I appreciate your information on part 3 with the delivery valves and injectors. I have done some basic improvements on my 98 12 valve. I have put a bank 4 in exhaust, and stage 2 100 horse power injectors, a fleece performance 63 mil turbocharger, Number 10 fill plate. I plan on modifying my AFC housing and getting some 4K Governor springs. At this time would it be a good idea to get some bigger delivery valves and bump my timing up. thanks
dv's are fine to start, timing i would have at 18-20 degrees
Hey Rob! Your videos are awesome and I love watching! What would you suggest to run a s364.5/73/.83 on a 97 12v with 4kgsk 60lb valvesprings and right now 5x12 injector nozzles on stock bodies
You can. I find them laggy myself but depends the elevation and what trans your running
4500ft and a built nv4500
Very good nice
Just want to say thank you for these vids. When I do build that 6.7 hybrid, I will be looking for some custom injectors from you. I would buy all I could from ya, but down in the lower 48, shipping would kill me.
I've been eyeing Industrial Injection's builder box series for a short block. Was looking at their performance package but, for 3k more I get the 14mm mains and girdle with the race package. Of course I'll have to custom order the 12v pistons in the kit. I may as well do my bottom end once and add the power as I go.
98% of the stuff would be coming out of the states if you are to buy from me. So the shipping would be the same as any of the guys in the states.
I currently have a 230 hp cummins in an 18k lbs. RV. I would like to be in the 300 hp range and be able to keep low egts and keep it cool for hills, high elevation and towing a 3800lbs car behind it. So I should set the timing at 17 degrees, install mack rack plug, remove 2mm from afc foot, move the fuel plate forward, then change the washer and set the afc housing in the middle to start adjust the star wheel? Have you seen real power numbers from aftermarket exhaust manifolds and do they lower egts? I think an hx35 would get me by, but I heard the k27 will lower egts, but will it spool down low 1700-1800? Thanks for all you do, I learn so much!
the mods and adjustment is a good starting spot. the manifold i don't have power numbers for them myself ( but i will when i buy a dyno ) . the kz27 does move more air. but the tight hot housing on it for a rv use might be small.
I have the same set up and goals as twinturbo327 I bought mine used someone installed EGT and altered pump but IDK what was done. I will have to look it over. My question is the EGT gauge probe a couple inches above turbo in exhaust manifold. What numbers should I be looking for? I'm getting Ford friends telling me lower #s than I can get , but they also say probe should be downstream of turbo.
@@CUTTERUPROB I have the same set up and goals as twinturbo327 I bought mine used someone installed EGT and altered pump but IDK what was done. I will have to look it over. My question is the EGT gauge probe a couple inches above turbo in exhaust manifold. What numbers should I be looking for? I'm getting Ford friends telling me lower #s than I can get , but they also say probe should be downstream of turbo.
@@summerplumber egt in the manifold 1250 is cummins spec for the high side, i like to say in the 900-1000 degree for good fuel mileage
@@CUTTERUPROB Thanks. Driving it home, 70 mph I was running about 1150 on level not pulling anything. That makes me nervous to pull with it in current state.
Hey Rob, could you do a video on the four different Bosch P7100 pumps 160 - 175 - 180 - 215's & how they operate to supply fuel. What distinguishes the difference and internal parts making them different from each other. Any interchangeability between internals, # identification and or any other information on the pumps. Thank you
I can tell you guys what i know. i am not a injection pump guys but i know some things. that's one thing i would like to get into
this is really great info from someone who seems to have done it all himself already and learned the mistakes, i appreciate it coming from a point of view that the biggest most expensive thing isnt what everyone needs and mentioning things like used delivery valves comes in these trucks so if a friends is swapping his stock ones theyd be an upgrade for your truck
i dont know if i missed it but seems like you didnt mention a fuel plate change and boost elbow delete,adjustment, seems to be what the facebook types recommend get a #6 plate or delete it altogether, add gov springs, valve springs, guages, let the boost goto 30psi and watch your transmission cry, is this a silly amateur way to approach getting 300-350 hp or is a pretty budget friendly quick way to max out the stock components if you dont plan to go past 350hp
alot of pump parts you can reuse, dv's / springs / plates. i talk about othe mods on some of the other video's. i have always found if you want a good running 300-350hp i don't do it the cheap mod way . i like to do a parts to take the stress off the pump
I appreciate your information on part 3 with the delivery valves and injectors. I have done some basic improvements on my 98 12 valve. I have put a bank 4 in exhaust, and stage 2 100 horse power injectors, a fleece performance 63 mil turbocharger, Number 10 fill plate. I plan on modifying my AFC housing and getting some 4K Governor springs. At this time would it be a good idea to get some bigger delivery valves and bump my timing up. thanks
Hey Rob just curious but if you will be using Bosch OEM injectors, are you considering having the nozzles extrude honed by using the microflow process or do you plan to have the existing holes ovesized using EDM. I'm hooked on watching your channel by the way. Thank you for all the information you provide to us!
I have about 20 different nozzles that i can use for all kinds of power levels. these are stock Bosch nozzles for different applications, ( I will only use Bosch parts ) , i can have nozzles edm and or honed. I just don't see the point in modding a nozzle when we can use a bosch nozzles that will last 100 thousands of miles service. if you want really big nozzles then we have to but that stuff doesn't get alot miles put on it. Thanks for watching !
@@CUTTERUPROB do you have any bosch part numbers for a 145° 5x.012 nozzles or near same at 145° pattern?
hey rob i have a rollback with ppump 12 valve and it has a hesitation in the mid range rpm range 1800-2200 and it coughs white smoke did injector tips gov springs 0 fuel plate afc spring any help would be great thanks
what's the pop pressure set to on the injectors? what the timing set to ? what's the lift pump pressure at wot