THat's never ever been an issue with me with anyone BUT the guy who repairs old Jeeps in Connecticut. 5 years later, still out of focus. I just couldn't hack it.
three generations… we see it here: watching Adam snug down the Work in the jaws…. is art, and yet he was not satisfied and went to clean up the part. THEN Zero it…. Art… pure art. thank you sir.
It amazes me every time he does it! He's truly got a full understanding of all parameters involved in getting something that concentric. The thousands of times he's done this really shows.
I love to see the videos where you step by step with no step skipped on how to do these operations. Even though I've been watching for a long time and this is pretty much how I learned to machine.
This video is one of the best for showing the centering of a part. That bushing was way wobbly and you can clearly see it get better with each adjustment. Nice work
I hear you, Nigel. Even if that hub OD has no bearing on the operation, just seeing it wobbling along would make me want to fix it. But as long as the ID is concentric with the OD of the gear teeth it becomes an aesthetic thing at that point.
@@michaelscott8226 hi. If the RPM is minimal and the unit maxx is high then perhaps the eccentricity is aesythetic but thats unlikely to be the case and the out of dynamic balance
@@michaelscott8226 cont. The cast ion is heavy. The reciprocating unbalanced mass will be shaking trying to desyroy every art of the machine. The out of balance will wear bearings & bushings until the flywheel teeth wear. Probably the wear wont be synchronous so it will propogate the wear around the circumference of the teeth. So much easier and cheeper and more professional to do the job properly the first time.
@@N1gel You guys are seriously wack. Abom is running a business, and the contract on this job is to machine it to customer provided dimensions. That handful of ounces of cast on that out of round gear is miniscule compared to the total mass of the gear. Further, its right next to the shaft, where its speed is slowest, incurring the least amount of centrifugal mass affect. Your claim of 'reciprocating unbalanced mass' is simply a BS word salad devoid of any meaning or context in this situation. At the low-med speed this rough gear is going to be run at, its going to live a long, long time with the excellently machine bushings Abom has made, assuming basic maint. is done. I would expect this gear/bushing would shrug off even med-high RPM work without a sweat. There is a reason some people, like Abom have a career and make a living doing this work, and others either watch on YT or play in the garage where the additional work/time/$$ fixing stuff like this all day is a non-income impacting imperative/OCD issue.
I for one really appreciate the time you take explaining everything. My dad taught me the basics of machining when I was in my teens and then I was away from it for 40 years. Your patience in explaining all the aspects is really helping bring it back to pass on to my kids. We can't afford to lose the manual machining skills you are passing on. My youngest is Magna Cum Laude in Mechanical Engineering, but what got them their job is they understood machining and could use the lathes and mills; they didn't just understand the numbers and theory. Their employer said that was unheard of in a kid coming out of college.
Very cool repair... looking forward for the bushing turning/boring. To me the most mind-blowing is how much material you can remove in one pass... wow!
Most critical of steps is indicating. If that is off, then everything else will be off. The more time you spend on indicating the more precise the rest of work will be. I'm not a machinist, but to me that seems to be the most important. I'm learning Adam. Thanks for all you share.
Being someone that is soon to buy my first lathe and begin my machining experience, your videos are a true pleasure to watch. That you for taking the time to explain your processes.
It is videos like this which bring me back to the channel. I'm completely bored with "machine of the week" videos, but watching Adam dial in that gear was very entertaining.
When your horizontal and your perpendicular are not "the same" on all the surfaces but your experience makes the part better than OEM and it comes out like a champ yet again. Also when your one part is so essential it's like solid gold irreplaceable and you're the go to machinist to make it right again.
Hey Adam. I’m guessing you didn’t show file chamfering the edge of the eccentric cast boss because of all the people that would call out “it’s dangerous!” 🙄🙄 If only they used a lathe they would know just how often we have to do that! 🤣 I have to say that eccentric boss was playing hell with my OCD, I realise as a customer job you can’t charge for machining it, but if it were mine for one of my machines it would have been turned true by the time I finished! 🤣 Keep up the good work! 👍
...WHAT ARE THEY GONNA DO? "FILE" A COMPLAINT?!! (get it? get it? get it? get it? "FILE" a complaint-?! snucker-snucker-snucker-snucker snucker-snucker-snucker-snucker!!)
one of those setup that is just as aggravating as doing the whole rest of the job! Ive had several parts that took longer to set up than to actually do the machining, but its either right or scrap and we take the time to do a proper setup no matter what. Aint no telling what that gear would cost to make from scratch.
yeah, he really should have turned the outside of the hub and dialed in the center bore after removing the bushing, this would have left a reference surface for later changes and repairs
Wouldnt you want to true up/indicate the gear teeth, then true up the center? Looks like the teeth are not true with what is now the center. Gonna have some slight gear resonance while its in operation.
The gear teeth are (supposed to be) concentric to the center bore, so it doesn't matter if you measure deviations on the inside or the outside. In theory at least, given that the bushing was factory new and the teeth likely have wear, as well as the ease to indicate the flat bore instead of the bumpy teeth, it's better to indicate the bore. (I guess the comment was sent before Adam mentioned that the center bore was not touched, he just removed the bushing without machining the original surface)
If you have heavy masking tape it works well to allow you to indicate the tops of the gear teeth without the indicator falling in. That usually good enough but if you need ultra accuracy you use dowel pins between the teeth and indicate them.
Exactly my thought that the old bushing was either done "good enough" or to a low qc. Pretty dam good job if I do say so there sir of showing the oldest of machining, working a set up and explaining how to get it true. Then it proves out so darn close. A master class level there Adam. One thing I've always noticed is that the explanations of how you know it is high or low are a bit lacking sometimes, could be just done so fast too. Today how you showed to only be concerned with the levels across being identical to constitute a true plane. I would like to see the indicator down in the bore more too just for the sake of really knowing was the bushing inconsistent or possibly the bore not being perfectly perpendicular to the face of the gear. Great content.
Thats an excellent way to end up buying or making a new part for a customer.... You do the job they ask and are paying you to do. Making any other changes just because you feel like it is the quickest way to have customers dump you or sue you. IF this were a highspeed part, and IF the mass were significant enough to impart any sort of unexpected centrifugal mass effect, I'm sure Abom would advise the customer, explain the problem, and get authorization to make that additional change. Thats why Abom is a professional vs a YT watcher.
@@boots7859 You are missing the point in the first part of your comment. The second part where you open to cooperation and sharing experience with the customer is more like it. Taking great care in centering the ID to thousands and then leaving this wobbly OD without consulting with the client cancels out. Even YT watcher can appreciate the mid-long term effect of this unbalance on the sleeve-bearing and connecting elements. Am sure that Adam considered it and might just do it for pride to sign his Name to the project.
Jesus! At first I thought that gear was sitting on the floor, and it looked 5 feet tall. Then he touched it, and my brain didn't understand what was going on :D.
Great video! Ever thought about marking the diameter of the circles on the chuck as an instant reference? Love watching all of the content. There is something relaxing about theses videos!
that would be about pointless unless all the parts you were indicating were near perfectly round. I wouldn't even attempt to try that on my 4 jaw. Sometimes well enough is as good as it gets.
What had me more worried was if the teeth were machined according to the bore. The runout in the casting looked wildly off and I find it strange that they wouldn't have tried to center the mass a little better...
Runout is in the hub, probably pattern error. I doubt this item would have worked with non-concentric machining. Remember, Adam indicated off the bushing bore. A worn part. I would have pulled the bushings before any machine work. Indicate off the hub plane and bore, then measure runout measured over pins. Having a mating gear would also help.
@@keithjurena9319 It seems that you have gone directly to the machining part without listening to the explanations ;-) there was no wear on the bushings, it was a brand new gear that they need to adapt to replace a different model that is no longer manufactured. Since he didn't touch the original cast iron bore when pressing in the new bushings they will as good as the old ones were from factory. The customer also wants flanged bushings, if it wasn't for that the originals would have been fine.
Zero shits given at manufacturing time. "Who cares where your center is, we have the means to MAKE you run true (never mind what the entire rest of the wheel does)".
All part features must refer to a gear's pitch cylinder. Whenever I had to modify a gear, I compared the bore concentricity to the pitch dia as a final check. I used a dowel pin or a drill shank near the best wire size for the gear pitch. Laid it in the tooth space and checked it with the indicator. About 5% of the time I found enough concentricity error I felt it necessary to dial in to the gear's PD. A couple thou PD eccentricity is OK for most low speed power transmission. Any more than that and the cyclic gear noise (wow-wow-wow etc) becomes apparent even to a tin-eared real estate broker or house painter. Anyway, not a big deal, but a quick and prudent cross-check that might forestall an awkward question from a customer suddenly grown skeptical.
You're one of the few people to have made a cogent argument in this thread. However, you have to include some other factors to be complete. 1. Customer is jury-rigging this gear to fit into their existing production. They have asked for specific work to be done, to their specifications. 2. Abom could do that additional work, on this part and every other parts that comes into his shop. Add it up, and thats quite a lot of work that is being done for basically free. Or more accurately, his 40 hour work week is now maybe 35, 33, 30 billable hours due to this additional work. 3. One would assume Abom is a reputable jobsman, and either discussed this with the customer beforehand, or would being it up upon discovery. Either the customer didn't want to add to the bill for the additional work, or Abom hasn't brought it up as he doesn't believe it will impact the function this part is expected to perform. The customer in this case already has an expert who's found a gear that they're going to 'make work'. Customer can be as sceptical as they want, however if push comes to shove, Abom can take the part, and show the measurements directly off it to the customer sceptical face. Almost every job in every industry have checks and doublechecks ad infinitum for every repair, or replacement, or troubleshooting of basically everything. If the gear was brought in obviously warped, I'd expect Abom would point that out immediately. If found warped upon start of work, same same. Checking the bore concentricity to the teeth is extra work, which is either going to be billed, or done for free. He got down to the machine bore without touching it. It appears to have been pulled from a working piece of equipment. For the additional time to add to the bill to do this check, and similar checks that he could do to every other part/order that comes into his shop, at what point do you stop? If he were to do all the checks that people here seem to demand, or suggest so as to be 'professional', he'd probably have to raise all his job order billables 10-20%. He could do what you suggest, and he could also clean up that out of round bore OD, and a half dozen other things that would make that part a gleaming beauty. And if he were to quote that, the customer would say thanks and go down to the other machine shop where they'll simply do what is asked and have a reasonable bill.
@@boots7859 You're correct in the time element but allow me to point out the first PD check takes about a minute using a suitable drill or tap shank from your tool box. If the PD is wonky it's decision/call the customer time. Regardless, dialing the last few thou to a pin in a tooth space aint rocket science: with a little practice, it goes about as quick as a tweak to a continuous diameter. I think I pointed out the check was optional but prudent. Every customer is worth a free minute. He IS hiring your skill and judgement along with your mere ability to perform basic functions on a lathe. It boils down to judgement anyway. I'm not suggesting aerospace QA on every piece off 60 year old farm equipment
The bore is untouched, he only cut the bushing material until it was thin enough to break to not have to use a press to remove the bushings, so if the bore was good from factory it will be good again for the new bushings which of course will be machined apart and pressed in the gear afterwards.
do you ever indicate on the teeth to get the gear perfectly centered in the jaws? or do you just rely on the factory bore to be centered with the outside surface of the teeth??
Only thing I would have done different is would have cut the out part to round, one for looks the other if I had to re-chuck would have a machine surface to work with! But great job!
The bore is spot on and only the outside of the hob wobbles due to a casting not turned down but ground in general down. Nothing precision in hub. The very nominal slop if any in the gear face will be taken up in the meshing of the gears. Gears are not bottomed out and have room to wiggle if needed under load or a chunk of junk drops in and out while in operation.
Knowing that is a cast gear I'm surprised they didn't want you to true it up that is if you found it not to be there's shouldn't be any wobble on the shaft but getting the extra weight off it could extend the life of the bearings in my opinion.
Adam, you have a tendency to say these "fixes" or jobs are a simple matter... I am an electrical Engineer and my wife has reminded me many times this work is "simple" for you because you are very good at your profession... much like electronic are easy for me...... So I understand you consider this a simple job.. but for those of us that are not professional Machinists, we love these video's because we think they are fairly hard to do and you make them look easy... so never marginalize what you do by saying its simple... because for most of us ... its not even close to being simple. Thanks for all the Videos.
Because that is not part of the job, and you don't do things not asked for by the customer. If Abom were told this was a highspeed part, and he thought that casting should be trued up, he'd probably call the customer and get the OK to do so. Just because it looks wonky to so many armchair experts doesn't mean it is something that must be corrected.
Re: hub bore being eccentric relative to bushing bore... maybe that's the result of the bushing bore being finished after being installed in the hub bore?
The outer surface of the hub being non-concentric would irritate the snot out of me. I guess balance isn't really a specification required for this job, so I'm glad I don't have to deal with it LOL
Problem is, THE WHOLE GEAR is running out like crazy - including the outer diameter of the spokes, the inner part of the rim, etc. (see around 17:00). It was machined with a large runout back when they cut the teeth (which are presumably only running out 3 thou or so, just as the original bore does). So yeah maybe you could "fix" the hub, but the whole rest of the gear would still be running out like mad, even while the teeth and hub ran true...
Hi Adam, Love both your channels, long time viewer. I have a question regarding this type of part. As it's a large heavy and fast spinning part, what other safetys could you put in place to prevent the part from flying out? I thought when you placed the bar in to catch the part getting cut off this could be used as a just incase method should the part come loose. Thanks.
That was done up two grunts tight, that isn’t coming out unless it fails (cracks into parts) and then nothing is stopping it however the rod down the middle might draw the tail stock into the accident! The safety aspect is that the thing rings when tapped therefore no cracks are detected plus whenever possible you stand off tho the side of path of exit, the way the lathe is designed for operation tends to ensure this position, lastly you listen to the machining, with experience you hear defects and / or failure approaching.
how rigid is your tool post? a 3/4 bar shouldn't have much flex under light cuts when sneaking up on your final dimensions. Unless the bar is a home made low quality unit it should be fine. Put an indicator on and see how easy you can deflect it by hand check the post and bar to see which one is deflecting
Curious how your deciphering which jobs go to the new shop and which jobs like this you’re keeping on the existing equipment? I know you don’t have all of your necessary tools, machinery and equipment over there yet, but was just kinda curious. Keep up the awesome work, great to see you becoming so successful with your endeavors! PS. Love watching that indicating. Amazing! I still scratch my head and have to think about it every time. Given I’m less than a year of having my equipment and learning this trade. Machining and machine tools has been something I’ve been interested in for as long as I can remember and for a person with perfectionist OCD, machining is a dream come true. You inspired me to finally go out and buy a mill and lathe. I have a composites company and it’s amazing how useful these tools can be for all kinds of different processes. The thing I love the most is the accuracy. Sure I can measure and drill holes with a regular handheld drill, but my OCD doesn’t like that very much so knowing everything is as exact as I can get it is quite satisfying.
This job it was specifically because he needed a 4 jaw chuck to independently indicate the gear center and only his monarch is currently set up to have one, I know he has a 4 jaw, 3 jaw, and collet chuck for the Victor lathe but he rarely uses those ever since he put that 6 jaw chuck on it. I know he has a 4 jaw for the Pacemaker in the new shop but he's not done fixing the cross slide, once that's done there shouldn't be anything he can't do at the new shop.
@@bdkj3e Very good points. I kinda put all that together after realizing the entire scope of the job and the use of the 4 jaw obviously. Is this even something you would want to do on the Pacemaker instead of the Monarch given the size? Forgive me I’m still learning. I just purchased my first lathe and mill about a year ago. Thank you!
You could tell the bushing was slightly out of concentric, as you cut it out, by the fact one side of the removed bushing still had a bit of wall left.
I was wondering why you would not make the out diameter true round so if you needed to later on do something it would be a quick set up in lathe? Not that much time to do and would look a lot better!
Never used, ran, or even been in a machine shop but find these vids(?) facinating.
Your skill as a content creator is approaching your skill as a machinist Abom. Great stuff sir!
Man, watching your videos of you Indicating parts like that has helped me out BIG time when doing qualifying ops. Your explanations are fantastic.
I like your very clear recording with good lighting and very clear sound. Thanks Adam for your channel.
THat's never ever been an issue with me with anyone BUT the guy who repairs old Jeeps in Connecticut. 5 years later, still out of focus. I just couldn't hack it.
It just wouldn't be Saturday night without my Abom79 fix!
three generations… we see it here:
watching Adam snug down the Work in the jaws…. is art, and yet he was not satisfied and went to clean up the part. THEN Zero it…. Art… pure art. thank you sir.
It amazes me every time he does it! He's truly got a full understanding of all parameters involved in getting something that concentric. The thousands of times he's done this really shows.
@@goose300183 ...HE'S HAD AN AWFUL LOT OF PRACTICE!!!
When Abom indicates the work-piece stays stationary and the universe moves
Thanks for explaining to us non machinists what you are doing and why. Your videos are excellent and are just getting better. Thank you.
I love to see the videos where you step by step with no step skipped on how to do these operations. Even though I've been watching for a long time and this is pretty much how I learned to machine.
I enjoyed the video Adam. The level of detail in your explanations is helpful. Thanks!
This video is one of the best for showing the centering of a part. That bushing was way wobbly and you can clearly see it get better with each adjustment. Nice work
I wouldnt have resisted the temptation to skim true the OD of the centre casting.
I hear you, Nigel. Even if that hub OD has no bearing on the operation, just seeing it wobbling along would make me want to fix it. But as long as the ID is concentric with the OD of the gear teeth it becomes an aesthetic thing at that point.
@@michaelscott8226 ...EXCEPT IT CONTRIBUTES TO THE IMBALANCE OF THE GEAR, AND RESULTS IN INCREASED VIBRATION-!!!
@@michaelscott8226 hi.
If the RPM is minimal and the unit maxx is high then perhaps the eccentricity is aesythetic but thats unlikely to be the case and the out of dynamic balance
@@michaelscott8226 cont.
The cast ion is heavy. The reciprocating unbalanced mass will be shaking trying to desyroy every art of the machine. The out of balance will wear bearings & bushings until the flywheel teeth wear. Probably the wear wont be synchronous so it will propogate the wear around the circumference of the teeth.
So much easier and cheeper and more professional to do the job properly the first time.
@@N1gel You guys are seriously wack. Abom is running a business, and the contract on this job is to machine it to customer provided dimensions. That handful of ounces of cast on that out of round gear is miniscule compared to the total mass of the gear.
Further, its right next to the shaft, where its speed is slowest, incurring the least amount of centrifugal mass affect.
Your claim of 'reciprocating unbalanced mass' is simply a BS word salad devoid of any meaning or context in this situation.
At the low-med speed this rough gear is going to be run at, its going to live a long, long time with the excellently machine bushings Abom has made, assuming basic maint. is done.
I would expect this gear/bushing would shrug off even med-high RPM work without a sweat.
There is a reason some people, like Abom have a career and make a living doing this work, and others either watch on YT or play in the garage where the additional work/time/$$ fixing stuff like this all day is a non-income impacting imperative/OCD issue.
I love cutting cast, it comes up so well. Many thanks again for the wonderful videos Adam.
I for one really appreciate the time you take explaining everything. My dad taught me the basics of machining when I was in my teens and then I was away from it for 40 years. Your patience in explaining all the aspects is really helping bring it back to pass on to my kids. We can't afford to lose the manual machining skills you are passing on. My youngest is Magna Cum Laude in Mechanical Engineering, but what got them their job is they understood machining and could use the lathes and mills; they didn't just understand the numbers and theory. Their employer said that was unheard of in a kid coming out of college.
Very cool repair... looking forward for the bushing turning/boring.
To me the most mind-blowing is how much material you can remove in one pass... wow!
Repeat customers means the man knows what he is doing. Good job Adam.🙂
Most critical of steps is indicating. If that is off, then everything else will be off. The more time you spend on indicating the more precise the rest of work will be. I'm not a machinist, but to me that seems to be the most important. I'm learning Adam. Thanks for all you share.
you'd be correct, a proper setup can be far more difficult than the rest of the repair.
You take me back to when i got started. Took me 2 hours to do a proper setup. Now 5 years later it takes me 15minutes.
Being someone that is soon to buy my first lathe and begin my machining experience, your videos are a true pleasure to watch.
That you for taking the time to explain your processes.
The shot of both indicators working at once was priceless. Thanks Adam.
Man, I love to see that Monarch just blowing through stock like it's tissue paper. That old machine is a treasure! :)
It is videos like this which bring me back to the channel. I'm completely bored with "machine of the week" videos, but watching Adam dial in that gear was very entertaining.
Love watching you set projects up in the 4-Jaw. Thanks very mush for sharing.
Love watching you work, Adam. Always learn something new. Thanks for all you do!
When your horizontal and your perpendicular are not "the same" on all the surfaces but your experience makes the part better than OEM and it comes out like a champ yet again. Also when your one part is so essential it's like solid gold irreplaceable and you're the go to machinist to make it right again.
Still using that double ended knocker. Glad to see you're getting good use out of it . Working on some a little smaller.
...how does THAT strike ya?!!
Just like they taught me in High School metal shop, LOL ! I think they were using Logan lathes back then.
Still the best machining content on TH-cam...
Good machinist, without a doubt, but there is better channels for video content
Repeat customers are always welcome! Nice one Adam!!👊👍🤙
Always love your videos. Can't wait for part 2. Hope u have a great day
Thou , thou and a half. Close enough! Love it.
In your line of work you really have to know your math. Love watching you work up close Adam on parts
Always a good show listening to the numbers fascinates me.
Enjoyed the video. Interesting and informative, as usual.
Reminds me of the old days back in the paper mill… great job 🇺🇸
Always thinking back to the times when these things where still made here..
Who else loves Adam’s videos but has no intention of ever doing any machining?
His videos are awesome. I'm a machinest and only wished I had all the knowledge he's had. His videos teach me something everytime.
I'm a carpenter and joiner I've been watching his vids since 2016and enjoyed every 1
Me 😀
🙋♀️
If you enjoy these videos, then check out 'Cutting Edge Engineering'. Aussie machine shop, but absolutely fantastic content 👌👌👌
Most interesting how you snuck up on it. Nice job, Sir
Hey Adam.
I’m guessing you didn’t show file chamfering the edge of the eccentric cast boss because of all the people that would call out “it’s dangerous!” 🙄🙄
If only they used a lathe they would know just how often we have to do that! 🤣
I have to say that eccentric boss was playing hell with my OCD, I realise as a customer job you can’t charge for machining it, but if it were mine for one of my machines it would have been turned true by the time I finished! 🤣
Keep up the good work! 👍
Machining that eccentric hub true is good working practice and would have taken ten minutes at the most. Looks terrible wobbling like that.
@@ellieprice363
You’re not wrong, but some customers get arsey about unsolicited machining work! 🤷♂️
@@grahamstretch6863 ...AW, THERE'S NO PLEASING SOME PEOPLE-!!!
@@ellieprice363 ...I THOUGHT SO TOO-!!!
...WHAT ARE THEY GONNA DO? "FILE" A COMPLAINT?!!
(get it? get it? get it? get it? "FILE" a complaint-?!
snucker-snucker-snucker-snucker snucker-snucker-snucker-snucker!!)
Well and masterfully done.
Great job, Adam. Have you had a chance to look into why the Monarch was acting up on the threading for the American Pacemaker compound lead screw?
...I SUSPECT THAT THE PROBLEM WAS BECAUSE THE MONARCH IS AN OLD MACHINE, AND ACME THREADS ARE MORE CRITICAL THAN VEE THREADS-(?)
one of those setup that is just as aggravating as doing the whole rest of the job! Ive had several parts that took longer to set up than to actually do the machining, but its either right or scrap and we take the time to do a proper setup no matter what. Aint no telling what that gear would cost to make from scratch.
yeah, he really should have turned the outside of the hub and dialed in the center bore after removing the bushing, this would have left a reference surface for later changes and repairs
Wouldnt you want to true up/indicate the gear teeth, then true up the center? Looks like the teeth are not true with what is now the center. Gonna have some slight gear resonance while its in operation.
The gear teeth are (supposed to be) concentric to the center bore, so it doesn't matter if you measure deviations on the inside or the outside. In theory at least, given that the bushing was factory new and the teeth likely have wear, as well as the ease to indicate the flat bore instead of the bumpy teeth, it's better to indicate the bore.
(I guess the comment was sent before Adam mentioned that the center bore was not touched, he just removed the bushing without machining the original surface)
Educational video.
How should indicating concentricity over the teeth of the OD look like? Is it even possible?
Thanks for showing Your work.
If you have heavy masking tape it works well to allow you to indicate the tops of the gear teeth without the indicator falling in. That usually good enough but if you need ultra accuracy you use dowel pins between the teeth and indicate them.
That looks like a useful piece of cast iron, you parted off there.
What a pleasure to watch your videos! Relaxing and informative...thank you.👍
Exactly my thought that the old bushing was either done "good enough" or to a low qc.
Pretty dam good job if I do say so there sir of showing the oldest of machining, working a set up and explaining how to get it true. Then it proves out so darn close.
A master class level there Adam.
One thing I've always noticed is that the explanations of how you know it is high or low are a bit lacking sometimes, could be just done so fast too.
Today how you showed to only be concerned with the levels across being identical to constitute a true plane. I would like to see the indicator down in the bore more too just for the sake of really knowing was the bushing inconsistent or possibly the bore not being perfectly perpendicular to the face of the gear.
Great content.
Another great class by you
16:49..."parting is such sweet sorrow(?)"
Any updates on that land you purchased? Looking forward to the building project.
Have learned from your channel about indicators and stuff. Has helped me with truing mx bike cranks 🔧🔧🏁
What's the plan, keep both shops? Figured worth the new shop, you'd be moving
How about fixing the wobbly O.D.
Thats an excellent way to end up buying or making a new part for a customer.... You do the job they ask and are paying you to do. Making any other changes just because you feel like it is the quickest way to have customers dump you or sue you. IF this were a highspeed part, and IF the mass were significant enough to impart any sort of unexpected centrifugal mass effect, I'm sure Abom would advise the customer, explain the problem, and get authorization to make that additional change.
Thats why Abom is a professional vs a YT watcher.
@@boots7859 ...YOU BETCHER LIFESAVERS-!!!!
@@boots7859 You are missing the point in the first part of your comment. The second part where you open to cooperation and sharing experience with the customer is more like it. Taking great care in centering the ID to thousands and then leaving this wobbly OD without consulting with the client cancels out. Even YT watcher can appreciate the mid-long term effect of this unbalance on the sleeve-bearing and connecting elements. Am sure that Adam considered it and might just do it for pride to sign his Name to the project.
Jesus! At first I thought that gear was sitting on the floor, and it looked 5 feet tall. Then he touched it, and my brain didn't understand what was going on :D.
I think Adam is addicted to indicating
He's allway looking for that high
Maravilha de trabalho, acompanhando sempre que possível!!!
Abraço daqui do Brasil a todos aí!!!
Great video! Ever thought about marking the diameter of the circles on the chuck as an instant reference? Love watching all of the content. There is something relaxing about theses videos!
Great video,will be waiting patiently for pt. 2🤗😎🤗😎
The OCD in me, would want to true up the OD, of the centre hub. 😊
It is not OCD. It is CDO, which is in alphabetical order like it is supposed to be...
@@RolfMikkelson 🤣
I'll bet he gets there in Part II
I agree, my obsessive-compulsive disorder (OCD) would cause me to want to machine that out-of-round cast hub.
2:00 If you stamp some width reference numbers onto the face of the chuck, would you no longer need to measure the opening with your scale?
that would be about pointless unless all the parts you were indicating were near perfectly round. I wouldn't even attempt to try that on my 4 jaw. Sometimes well enough is as good as it gets.
@@MrChevelle83 Not meant as a substitute for indicating. Only meant to negate the need to measure the approximate size of the opening with his scale.
Thanks for sharing! Great information and insight!
Entertaining as always, thanks Adam!!
Love that monarch!
I guess the gear does not spin fast enough to worry about balance. When it comes to indicating Abom is the bomb.
Great tips on centering up in the four jaw Adam. Been a while since I been back,,hello to Abbie as well. Bear.
What had me more worried was if the teeth were machined according to the bore. The runout in the casting looked wildly off and I find it strange that they wouldn't have tried to center the mass a little better...
Runout is in the hub, probably pattern error. I doubt this item would have worked with non-concentric machining.
Remember, Adam indicated off the bushing bore. A worn part.
I would have pulled the bushings before any machine work. Indicate off the hub plane and bore, then measure runout measured over pins. Having a mating gear would also help.
@@keithjurena9319 It seems that you have gone directly to the machining part without listening to the explanations ;-) there was no wear on the bushings, it was a brand new gear that they need to adapt to replace a different model that is no longer manufactured.
Since he didn't touch the original cast iron bore when pressing in the new bushings they will as good as the old ones were from factory.
The customer also wants flanged bushings, if it wasn't for that the originals would have been fine.
Zero shits given at manufacturing time. "Who cares where your center is, we have the means to MAKE you run true (never mind what the entire rest of the wheel does)".
All part features must refer to a gear's pitch cylinder. Whenever I had to modify a gear, I compared the bore concentricity to the pitch dia as a final check. I used a dowel pin or a drill shank near the best wire size for the gear pitch. Laid it in the tooth space and checked it with the indicator. About 5% of the time I found enough concentricity error I felt it necessary to dial in to the gear's PD.
A couple thou PD eccentricity is OK for most low speed power transmission. Any more than that and the cyclic gear noise (wow-wow-wow etc) becomes apparent even to a tin-eared real estate broker or house painter.
Anyway, not a big deal, but a quick and prudent cross-check that might forestall an awkward question from a customer suddenly grown skeptical.
You're one of the few people to have made a cogent argument in this thread.
However, you have to include some other factors to be complete.
1. Customer is jury-rigging this gear to fit into their existing production.
They have asked for specific work to be done, to their specifications.
2. Abom could do that additional work, on this part and every other parts that comes into his shop. Add it up, and thats quite a lot of work that is being done for basically free. Or more accurately, his 40 hour work week is now maybe 35, 33, 30 billable hours due to this additional work.
3. One would assume Abom is a reputable jobsman, and either discussed this with the customer beforehand, or would being it up upon discovery.
Either the customer didn't want to add to the bill for the additional work, or Abom hasn't brought it up as he doesn't believe it will impact the function this part is expected to perform.
The customer in this case already has an expert who's found a gear that they're going to 'make work'. Customer can be as sceptical as they want, however if push comes to shove, Abom can take the part, and show the measurements directly off it to the customer sceptical face.
Almost every job in every industry have checks and doublechecks ad infinitum for every repair, or replacement, or troubleshooting of basically everything.
If the gear was brought in obviously warped, I'd expect Abom would point that out immediately. If found warped upon start of work, same same.
Checking the bore concentricity to the teeth is extra work, which is either going to be billed, or done for free.
He got down to the machine bore without touching it.
It appears to have been pulled from a working piece of equipment.
For the additional time to add to the bill to do this check, and similar checks that he could do to every other part/order that comes into his shop, at what point do you stop?
If he were to do all the checks that people here seem to demand, or suggest so as to be 'professional', he'd probably have to raise all his job order billables 10-20%.
He could do what you suggest, and he could also clean up that out of round bore OD, and a half dozen other things that would make that part a gleaming beauty.
And if he were to quote that, the customer would say thanks and go down to the other machine shop where they'll simply do what is asked and have a reasonable bill.
@@boots7859 You're correct in the time element but allow me to point out the first PD check takes about a minute using a suitable drill or tap shank from your tool box. If the PD is wonky it's decision/call the customer time. Regardless, dialing the last few thou to a pin in a tooth space aint rocket science: with a little practice, it goes about as quick as a tweak to a continuous diameter.
I think I pointed out the check was optional but prudent. Every customer is worth a free minute. He IS hiring your skill and judgement along with your mere ability to perform basic functions on a lathe. It boils down to judgement anyway. I'm not suggesting aerospace QA on every piece off 60 year old farm equipment
Just curious ... Why didn't you use your bullnose center to help align at the beginning and save yourself tons of time ...??
Thanks for sharing 👍
I hope the hub bore turns out to be concentric with the teeth…
After the problem with acme threading that lead screw will you be doing a service on the monarch ?
Awesome sauce. How come after your bored out the bushing you didn’t re-indicate to re-centre the gear. Aren’t you off 3 thou from true?
.003 on a open gear is of no concern.
Kick ass. Thx.
The bore is untouched, he only cut the bushing material until it was thin enough to break to not have to use a press to remove the bushings, so if the bore was good from factory it will be good again for the new bushings which of course will be machined apart and pressed in the gear afterwards.
do you ever indicate on the teeth to get the gear perfectly centered in the jaws? or do you just rely on the factory bore to be centered with the outside surface of the teeth??
not using the new shop for this project??
Only thing I would have done different is would have cut the out part to round, one for looks the other if I had to re-chuck would have a machine surface to work with! But great job!
Same. Would make any future repairs a breeze, cause I can guarantee that bushing will be toast and they'll be boring that hub out at some point.
The bore is spot on and only the outside of the hob wobbles due to a casting not turned down but ground in general down. Nothing precision in hub. The very nominal slop if any in the gear face will be taken up in the meshing of the gears. Gears are not bottomed out and have room to wiggle if needed under load or a chunk of junk drops in and out while in operation.
In fact I think the junk will be like 90% of the lubricant on those teeth and maybe even help reduce noise
Any plans for a shaper in the new shop Adam?
Knowing that is a cast gear I'm surprised they didn't want you to true it up that is if you found it not to be there's shouldn't be any wobble on the shaft but getting the extra weight off it could extend the life of the bearings in my opinion.
...I THOUGHT SO TOO-!!!
Adam,
you have a tendency to say these "fixes" or jobs are a simple matter... I am an electrical Engineer and my wife has reminded me many times this work is "simple" for you because you are very good at your profession... much like electronic are easy for me...... So I understand you consider this a simple job.. but for those of us that are not professional Machinists, we love these video's because we think they are fairly hard to do and you make them look easy... so never marginalize what you do by saying its simple... because for most of us ... its not even close to being simple. Thanks for all the Videos.
Pay no attention to the spammers.
Do you need to bore the new hole with respect to the gear ring or?
14:20 damn I love the sound of that lathe
While you have the gear there would it not be prudent to take some of the 'run-out' away in the hub to try and make more balanced?
...THAT'S WHAT I WAS THINKING TOO-(!)
Hey Adam, why if your not going to do it clean the outside of the hub that’s out of round ?
Because that is not part of the job, and you don't do things not asked for by the customer. If Abom were told this was a highspeed part, and he thought that casting should be trued up, he'd probably call the customer and get the OK to do so. Just because it looks wonky to so many armchair experts doesn't mean it is something that must be corrected.
@ᴀʙᴏᴍ79 Wow, scammers are now personalizing their handles...
Fantastic Adam......
You could sell the parted off ring as merchandise. 🤷🏻♂️
It was a very nice drop. I'm sure it will get used for something, somewhere down the road.
Nice Job
Re: hub bore being eccentric relative to bushing bore... maybe that's the result of the bushing bore being finished after being installed in the hub bore?
The outer surface of the hub being non-concentric would irritate the snot out of me. I guess balance isn't really a specification required for this job, so I'm glad I don't have to deal with it LOL
Problem is, THE WHOLE GEAR is running out like crazy - including the outer diameter of the spokes, the inner part of the rim, etc. (see around 17:00). It was machined with a large runout back when they cut the teeth (which are presumably only running out 3 thou or so, just as the original bore does). So yeah maybe you could "fix" the hub, but the whole rest of the gear would still be running out like mad, even while the teeth and hub ran true...
Hi Adam,
Love both your channels, long time viewer.
I have a question regarding this type of part. As it's a large heavy and fast spinning part, what other safetys could you put in place to prevent the part from flying out? I thought when you placed the bar in to catch the part getting cut off this could be used as a just incase method should the part come loose.
Thanks.
That was done up two grunts tight, that isn’t coming out unless it fails (cracks into parts) and then nothing is stopping it however the rod down the middle might draw the tail stock into the accident!
The safety aspect is that the thing rings when tapped therefore no cracks are detected plus whenever possible you stand off tho the side of path of exit, the way the lathe is designed for operation tends to ensure this position, lastly you listen to the machining, with experience you hear defects and / or failure approaching.
A part could be lightly bolted to a chuck face without distorting the part. You would have to drill and tap holes in a very expensive chuck.
Yay, this time they cleaned it ^^
Can you give a boring bar tutorial, im having trouble boring a 4-5 inch hole with a 3/4 inch bar. Its flexing too much on me.
how rigid is your tool post? a 3/4 bar shouldn't have much flex under light cuts when sneaking up on your final dimensions. Unless the bar is a home made low quality unit it should be fine. Put an indicator on and see how easy you can deflect it by hand check the post and bar to see which one is deflecting
Curious how your deciphering which jobs go to the new shop and which jobs like this you’re keeping on the existing equipment? I know you don’t have all of your necessary tools, machinery and equipment over there yet, but was just kinda curious. Keep up the awesome work, great to see you becoming so successful with your endeavors!
PS. Love watching that indicating. Amazing! I still scratch my head and have to think about it every time. Given I’m less than a year of having my equipment and learning this trade. Machining and machine tools has been something I’ve been interested in for as long as I can remember and for a person with perfectionist OCD, machining is a dream come true. You inspired me to finally go out and buy a mill and lathe. I have a composites company and it’s amazing how useful these tools can be for all kinds of different processes. The thing I love the most is the accuracy. Sure I can measure and drill holes with a regular handheld drill, but my OCD doesn’t like that very much so knowing everything is as exact as I can get it is quite satisfying.
This job it was specifically because he needed a 4 jaw chuck to independently indicate the gear center and only his monarch is currently set up to have one, I know he has a 4 jaw, 3 jaw, and collet chuck for the Victor lathe but he rarely uses those ever since he put that 6 jaw chuck on it. I know he has a 4 jaw for the Pacemaker in the new shop but he's not done fixing the cross slide, once that's done there shouldn't be anything he can't do at the new shop.
@@bdkj3e Very good points. I kinda put all that together after realizing the entire scope of the job and the use of the 4 jaw obviously. Is this even something you would want to do on the Pacemaker instead of the Monarch given the size? Forgive me I’m still learning. I just purchased my first lathe and mill about a year ago. Thank you!
Thanks for sharing enjoyed
You could tell the bushing was slightly out of concentric, as you cut it out, by the fact one side of the removed bushing still had a bit of wall left.
...THAT'S WHAT I THOUGHT, TOO-!!!
I was wondering why you would not make the out diameter true round so if you needed to later on do something it would be a quick set up in lathe? Not that much time to do and would look a lot better!
Good job
I assume it doesn't matter in this case but aren't you twitching to fix the OD on that centre so it doesn't look so out of balance?
I know I was!
Thank you Adam for taking the time to show us your technique for centering, again craftsmanship at its very best.
The cut off piece would make a good paper weight and gift from the channel.
ADAM, GREAT VIDEO, LET'S GO TO WORK...
@ᴀʙᴏᴍ79 GREAT JOB...