Bronze Acme Nut Part 2
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 29 ก.ย. 2024
- We continue the machining on the new bronze acme nut for the new lead screw. In this video we'll be turning the round journal in the PM lathe, showing some 4 jaw chuck indicating in the process. We'll then move over to the KBC mill to machine the radius on the opposite end using a corner rounding end mill. We'll have one final video to finish out the machining on these bronze acme nuts.
Paypal Channel Donation: www.paypal.com...
Support though Patreon: / abom79
My Amazon store where I'm adding many of the tools and products I use in my own shop. Amazon.com/shop/abom79
Visit my second TH-cam channel where you can follow our travels, camping, RVing, cooking, and bbq!
A trick I learned from an old guy, was to put a piece of wet paper on the surface, (with knowned thickess ofcourse). When the tool snugged it away, I know were I was on the DRO. About 0.1mm here in Sweden. Love Your videos. There's a whole bunch of guys here in Sweden that watch Your channel. Thanks man, keep it up.👍👍👍👍
Adam did just that in a recent video upload. Someone commented that Tally-Ho/Raw ciggie papers are perfect for this.
I learn so many techniques from watching your videos. Keep up the good work. Thank you.
They both look great! Thanks for bringing us along, Adam.
I live vicariously through Adam both. I used to be a machinist in the early 80's through the late 90's using manual and cnc machines before the terrible Oregon legislation decided to outlaw all heavy manufacturing in the State. I'm very impressed with the Precision Matthews machines. Keep up with the good work. Adam. I really enjoy our videos. I've been watching them from the start of your channel. :)
"before the terrible Oregon legislation decided to outlaw all heavy manufacturing in the State." ?? How?
When I made a cross feed nut for my old lathe, the radii were necessary for clearance to get full travel.
Nice shop you got there.
Having a spare cross feed nut for you lathe waiting around will guarantee very long service life for the one that is installed.
The slow motion at at 16:20 was so satisfying, I replayed it more than twenty times!
Question: could you set up a second camera to record the DRO while you are turning things, and then put it into into the vid in a PiP style? Dunno how hard it would be to keyframe it into sync, but would look cool :D
I was thinking the same thing..... atleast do a single run showing the DRO
If he is using FCP it is pretty easy to do pip and synch using the sound channel.
A sync trick i used to do when I was in the video biz is start both cameras rolling then take a flash photo near both cameras. There will be a single frame of white on each camera at that moment of the flash. Align the clips in editor and there ya go!
It definitely would look cool!
@@djquick oh man that's slick, I need to remember that if I ever get around to making another video.
Those brass shims work good, but to improve them.
Mill in pockets for small coin magnets. Now they stay in place.
Great series Adam.
Excellent work as always.
Making a duplicate part in case of a mistake increases the chances of the first one turning out perfect by 200%.
Of all of your fans, that one in the corner must be the biggest.
Is there a reason that the part is wider than the original?
Looks great Adam! Hello to Abby and God bless! Take care and stay safe!🙏🎚🇲🇾🇲🇾🇲🇾
It seems a small logical failure to use soft jaws in the lathe on a surface that will mostly be milled later but then not use soft jaws on a finished surface on the indexer while milling. Maybe knowing the finish wasn't important in either area affected the planning.
I think the problem is with keeping the part centered, so it can be turned 180.
Very nice Adam. I don't have radius cutters so it's the end mill on a radius plate.
Thanks for sharing 👍
KBC had a store in St. Louis years ago. I shopped there infrequently since I had access to other suppliers through work. I always thought of KBC as a "B" level supplier dealing mostly with off shore materials of second grade quality. I steered clear of them for that reason. This is the first time that I have seen you operate the KBC mill. I expected the mill to be substandard, but your demonstration today really impressed me. I have no beef with Align power feed or Newall DRO. I introduced our shop to Newall when Accurite went belly up. We used Newall for years and essentially eliminated glass scale and wiper issues, (scale contamination). If KBC branded machine tools justify these accessories, I will rethink my distain for in house brands. This looks like a similar size mill to the old Bridgeport Series II. What taper is the tooling for this machine? Is the tooling held with a conventional knee mill drawbar or does it use a collet system and tooling drawbar nut like CNC? Do you know who is making this machine? When USA machine builders abandoned the manual machine market and CNC took over the industry it seemed to me that quality manual machine options became very limited. We owned a Sharp and an Aliant purchased in 1993 or 1994. I was smugly distainful of these brands, but really grew to appreciate their quality. Eventually service parts were nearly impossible to source. I would happily have either of those machines in my shop to replace my worn Bridgeport.
I would like to see a review of the KBC. Today's video has already impressed me. Would you give a back story on why you chose this machine? Would you rate it against other currently available options? You have enjoyed KBC products for a long time Lyle Peterson likes KBC as well. Do they still print a catalog? Catalogs used come to my desk years ago.
It is a fact that many "brands" can change quality drastically over the years as new management comes in. In this case it seems KBC is choosing better suppliers than in the past. When evaluating a brand look at what they are selling today - not how they were in the past. Adam has obviously done his research in picking equipment to come into the shop.
At a guess, I’d say that machine is a Taiwanese import. A LOT higher quality than mainland Chinese imports.
Regards
Robert
Great Work Adam, can't wait to see the Pace Maker making chips
For the odd cutter that wants to chatter like that, you should look at installing a variable frequency driver for you motor. It varies the motor's RPM between a set range so that no harmonic vibrations can start from a standing harmonic wave in the machine. It's easy to install and use. During normal operation, it can be bypassed completely since you are already on 3 phase power.
Put it on the rotary table and use a end mill to make the RAD...that is how you would do it if you never had a RAD cutter as they always chatter.
Or he could just throw it in his new cnc mill and program the radius
@@keithhasafastcar Yes, but as Adam is new to cnc a few goes would be good. In truth that rad is just clearance with the barrel dia being the tied up part. You need a lot of parts to make a cnc pay for it's self. Mind you the vies would go up with a cnc crash...
@@theessexhunter1305 I don't see why it would not be practical to do this in CNC, bareing in mind I have zero experience... Once you can create the shape in CAD the actual milling would be identical to what was done here but with a different cutter. For Adam it might be tough with his lack of experience but it's just half a cylinder laying on it's side?
But why change or attempt to improve it. It turned out beautifully with almost a mirror finish the way he did it. It’s easy to overthink a part
like this.
Almost ready to put the lathe back together.
Great job Adam...but..isn't the radius... I would have done this 1st...WHO CARES! If it fits and works, then it's ABOM CERTIFIED!
Can't wait to see it together. Beautiful job!
easier to adjust for squaring on the mill with a rotating table if it has a round shank. if he did the radius first, he would have to bump a mill vice tillt he part was square. easier this way
Good stuff
when the slomo came in the first time in the vid I thought a Pantera song was starting to play. I forget the name of it. lol
Cowboys from hell 🤟🏽
100%
Damn fine sir.
I noticed the cutting tool was not was not pushed all the way in to the holder, do you square it up every time you change tooling? Guess that was the correct way to inquire. Do you eyeball it or measure?
Hey Adam take a look at Kurtis's (CEE) videos, he has some brass pieces he can screw onto the jaws of his chuck, might be a good idea
His channel is awesome
Have you seen the terrible pakistani machining channels where they literaly use cow dung to heat a engine blovk for welding?
@@DIGGER19860 yeah and they just weld a broken crankshaft back together and weld a block shut that threw a rod😄
@@TheDennisZb they do what they have to, i think.they are suffering under international sanctions
@@DIGGER19860 Some of the stuff they do is really pretty amazing given how little resources they have, other stuff is terrible. Recently watched them casting and machining diesel engine pistons out of random aluminium scrap of unknown alloy, and some very dubious machining practices.
WIll you be adding the angled thread to the end like it on the original piece? I'm interested to see that setup.
How can a little bump with the hammer move the part in the jaws but the tool pressure not move it?
Simply put cutting action vs hammer 🤣
I assume you have room for the extra "width" ?
I despise corner rounding end mills, especially big ones. Soon you'll be stitching that on there with a ball nose like it should be. :)
How do you go about stitching a large convex radius on a part with a ball end mill?
@@ellieprice363 The same way you stitch any 3D feature....
@@trainedtiger ?
opposite of big chips
You gonna have AC in the new shop?
He has 3 Mr. Cool units he installed a couple of months ago.
He's already had 3 splits installed.
The series was a good watch.
Doesn't look like it fits to me
I was wondering if that extra shoulder on the mushroom was accounted for in the installation.
Adam, are my eyes deceiving me, or are the new parts wider than the original. The original has a true rounded top, the new parts have a flat on the top. Thanks for the video. Jon
Those new parts don't look quite right. Are you sure that was 1.5" square stock? a .75" radius cutter should've made a semi-circular end. That flat strip looks about .5" wide which tells me that stock was 2" nominal square.
Early on he said 1 3/4 square, so if he said 1 1/2 some time else, it could have been a misspeak.
I see where he said 1 1/2 was the width with the 3/4 radius, so definitely something was off.
Being the machine repair kind of guy I am, I would put that extra ACME nut in a sealed plastic bag and keep it in the bottom of the control panel. Whoever ends up owning that machine in 30 to 50 years when it needs to be replaced again may appreciate it. :)
New parts do not match the sample. Dont understand.
He started with wider stock, and the profile doesn't matter, so what's the difference?
But isn't it too wide? shouldn't the sides have been cut down before radiusing?
Yeah the top is so much wider, I assumed he would have removed some material before putting the radius on.
It would have been nice to see a close up side by side and end to end. I'm not sure it is the angle of the camera creating an illusion or a difference in dimension.
It is wider than the original. Square instead of rectangular. Maybe it doesn't matter but I wouldn't chance it in case the profile is needed for clearance. And it looks nicer too 🙂
Go to the tear down SNS360 you will see there is loads of clearance, he also said at the beginning of the video it aesthetic
Watch the previous video you get your answers there already
With cutters like that round over you used the higher the RPM the smoother the cut. If you increase the RPM with increasing your feed rate you are reducing your cut per tooth and the higher speed of the cutter also turns that slap into more of a vibration making it easier on your machine & fixtures.
You didn't reduce the width of the bar before machining the radii .
My thoughts exactly
Adam, you should seriously consider doing this for a living, your really good at it.
He does
@@joshclark44 He did. Now he makes youtube videos for a living. He's pretty good at that too. He only takes on side jobs if they're interesting for a video... or if old acquaintances make puppy eyes and ask really nicely.
Hi Adam, Why is this nut so much wider? Or doesn’t it matter for its purpose? Love your vids btw. I’ve been watching for over 4 years now.
I also notice that. it looks like you need to take off around a quarter of a inch each side the round the edges again
I was thinking the same thing. Adam may find out when he goes to put this in the machine, that he may need to shave off that extra material, and then re-machine the 3/4" rounds.
Why does the new piece look much wider at the top than the old one? It looks like it needed to be machined down on both sides before the radius was added. Maybe its just the way it looks on camera, but something looks wrong. Is that top dimension not critical?
It's not a critical dimension. I probably would have made it the same size but then I'd have used my CNC to cut the width and corner radii in one operation because I'm lazy.
That mill is whisper quiet, niiice.
Love the sounds of all this new equipment in this presentation
This series made me tackle redoing my crossfeed screw and nut. Your clips gave me some great ideas and my screw and nut turned out great. Thanks for the help!
I learned many tricks in this one video, I was not aware of taking shoulder height with the caliper like you did, it is better than what I was doing.
Did the original part have an oil port on the top for the threads?
That new lathe sure is quiet. Very nice job on those pieces.
Adding a DRO to the knee and quill would be worth it to guarantee your Z is always correct.
Beautiful work, Adam. It will be nice to get the American Pacemaker up and ready for work. Seems like I remember the clutch was a little noisy in neutral, but I'm sure you will address that. Long live the old iron!!
The new machines are so quiet.
No need to imitate K Fenner.. put it in a gear! :-)
Adam, what dividing head or rotary table is that you are using on your knee mill? And do you like it? Anything you wish it had that it doesn't?
I'm still waiting for Abom79 to make an Acme rocket launcher...I know Wylie has the blueprints!
Hi Adam,
In turning the second one, when you had the slow motion it reminded me of the sound of old steam trains which I travelled on for many years.
That Matthew's lathe runs very smoothly.
The part looks fantastic.
Cheers Dennis.
How did you indicate for drilling the center? Really, that wants to be centered on the cross drilled hole (the threaded one), not the bar itself. If you don't need to worry too much about tolerances staking up, I guess you could just trust that making both holes as close to the center of the bar as possible would work, but it's an interesting question of how to indicate in on the threaded hole if the situation was that you can't do that.
The first thing that comes to my mind would be to swap the order of the ops: turn the outer diameter, indicate on that surface in a mill and then drill/bore/thread the hole.
How can you be sure that the stem is square to the threaded hole if you chuck from the raw unmachined surfaces?
Ahhh! The pucker factor!!! If that were me, that part would have slipped, caught corner to corner, and sheared that stem right the hell off! And then I would have not only had to start over, but tram in again.
Except in adams shop it would have made for great content! This guy rarely messes up on a lathe or mill though so Im not holding my breath for a crash video.
33:58 how is that same?that new part looks much bigger. Maybe i missed it,but size wasn't really critical?
You missed it.
The width isn't a critical dimension. As long as it clears the slot it runs in, it's good. The only critical dimensions are the thread and pin and their relative positions.
The new ones are much wider than the old one. Does that measurement not matter?
Bronze Acme Nut for Lead Screw Part 1 @2:20
Hopefully we'll get to see it at reassembly.
I doubt the outside dimensions of the head mean much. Completly noncritical.
@@jeffo881 went back to check and I believe he meant wider than the original in length where the threaded hole goes through. But it was just slightly longer, the sides however are way off and should've been milled down prior to putting the radius in to make it match the original. Maybe the measurement doesn't matter but it would've bugged me 🙂 even if the part won't be seen once installed..
First time I ever seen one of them "giggly-pin" things. Made indicating too easy. Plus i think it put some pep in your step. And it's cool to see a finished product come out so exact and pretty. Yeah!
You are like a tv show, we cant wait for the next episode!!!
When the original was shown, didn't it have a groove and oil hole on the top ? Thanks.
Mr Adam there's a TH-camr called bus motor productions he has a sawmill and he said he was trying to get some parts from crosley's edger company and they would not slam any parts in his edgers not cutting straight he got a real good TH-cam channel like you and I thought maybe you and him might can get together and see if you can help him out by fixing his edger love your videos be safe have a great day Sam his name is Mark I believe it's gaskin I'm not real sure I'm probably pronouncing it wrong but it's a south southern thing and I'm from Jacksonville Florida have a great day
Mark Galicic, and he's from the Pittsburgh area. Yep, he could use some help.
That was supposed to be sale durn talk to text
This is wonderful to see and now I understand the concept of creating one high-precision machine with another. Still remember the sound of that Acme thread tap! Always interesting! Thanks Adam.
1:18. Hey Adam, I think that fan would be a bit more effective if you moved it a couple more feet away from the wall. Would make for easier airflow behind it.
Most of the time when I regrind a corner rounding tool I gash the teeth. If the tool is burned up I regrind the form on my Hybco formrelief grinding head.
When I grind the form I a
3 degree brake away angle at the top and the bottom.
This makes the makes the tool more forgiving at the tangent point at the top and bottom of the tool .
That angle is so small you never see it . The cutter pounds because of the straight flutes. There is no shearing action as with a
spiral fluted end mill.
I was wondering that and asked in my own comment - do they make spiral fluted corner rounding end mills? It seems like that would cut a lot smoother with a more gradual cut and always having an edge in contact with the part.
Anyone else seeing an oversized ProtoPipe in this piece?
I came here to say protopipe, yes
That's a beautiful lathe.
Adam, thanks for another video. Been watching for years. Good work. Cheers!
At the end of the video when you have the new and old piece on the table the new ones dimensions seem incorrect. The new nut is a lot larger in width and the shaft diameter seems smaller than the original.
He changed from square threads to acme
Yup. Just have to watch the videos.
I'm fully aware of the changes but that's irrelevant to the dimensions the nut still needs to fit into the machine.
@@jonjohnson102 how does the thread profile matter?
1. 3/4 Acme and 3/4 Modified Square both have a nominal diameter od 3/4
That is not what OP is even talking about.
You can't fool me, mister. I know a bronze birdhouse when I see one.
Correct me if i'm wrong but isn't there a sort of oiling groove / hole through to the acme threads in the old nut - located at top of the curved profile? Oiling / greasing of screw = good maintenance.
Calm down boy
You got lucky, that didn't spin in the indexer. I would have put it in the vise.
I was so shocked to see someone telling Adam he was wrong, without ANY videos on your own channel. Don't tell the world bro, SHOW US! You have machine in your username. You are on TH-cam. You have a phone. I wonder why you don't have videos? Weird.
@@eriklarson9137 right for the jugular!
@@eriklarson9137 So I shouldn’t comment because I don’t have a video? Where’s yours?
Nice to hear you say let’s have some fun , you still enjoy what you’re doing it’s not a chore .
Man kann das auch mit weniger Belastung machen indem man die Rundung immer oben und seitlich abwechselnd fräst. Dann bleibt der Eingriff in die Schneide klein.
Hi Adam, Sorry to be blunt but shoutdn't you cut the width to size prior to putting on the radius.
Great videography! You’re obviously a talented machinist, you’re becoming a filmmaker too. 👍
I watch this centering process. . . and think. . . That’s the way I build bicycle wheels. .. except that I don’t habe dial indicators. . . 😀
I wish you could hook up with the Slow Mo Guys. I wonder how cool it would be to watch metal peeling off on the lathe!
He has done it before. Watch some of his early videos from 6-8 years ago.
Sorry for a bit of a non sequitur question for this video, but I've watched a bunch of your older videos (I take machine shop classes at night and your videos are great btw!) and noticed that on your big Monarch lathe when you do threading you don't ever seem to use the Monarch's party trick threading capability of not having to disengage the half nut to reverse off the thread. For a long thread I would get that it could become annoying, but for the shorter threads wouldn't it be quicker/easier then backing off and trying to catch the number again? I would think this would be especially so on oddball threads... just curious as I have just agreed to buy a Monarch C like yours (although quite a bit smaller)!
Thanks!
I am a gunsmith and never disengage the half nut when threading, especially barrel threads and the internal threads on a rifle action. It really makes the work go far smoother, and the reverse feed acts as a deflection cut, giving me an extra bonus.
@@garygruber1452 Do you mean that you leave the tool fully engaged full depth in the thread while reversing the spindle? I thought backlash would ruin the thread but maybe not. I understand backing the tool out and reversing the spindle while leaving the half nut engaged but not leaving the tool fully engaged in the thread.
@@ellieprice363 Agreed on the backlash - but even worse, wouldn't the tool just be rubbing in reverse rather than cutting?
@@cooperised Yes it would rub. The spindle can be reversed to the starting point with half nut engaged but the tool must be retracted.
@@garygruber1452 With the Monarch (and the Hendys, possibly others I'm not aware of) you can reverse the feed without stopping the lathe, combined with the crossfeed stop it allows you to pull your cutter out, hit reverse, reverse out with the tool off the threads (but still engaged with the lead screw), turn the crossfeed back to the pre-set stop (zero), feed your compound in for whatever your next cut is and then change the feed back to forward...
Which lathe do you have? It would be interesteing to hear about others besides the Hendy and Monarchs that can do that.
For oddball threads or if threading is a particular nemisis this capability can't be beat.
Definitely enjoy watching the turning but for someone like myself who doesn’t know the first thing about machining, for some reason when I see a square piece get turned I always wait for the cutting tool to snap.. Obviously it’s a harder materiel but it gets me every time.. 🙌🏼😂
I can't get over how quiet that KBC and the PM lathe both are. Sounds like butter wrapped in velvet.
Your videos are always interesting and educational.
I noticed that the old nut has an oil hole in the top with a longitudinal groove. Are you goung to make it in the new one too or are you planning to do something different in terms of lubrication.
Part 3 ?
That kinda looks like 360 brass or maybe 385
I am not a machinist but been in several shops through the years for work related projects. Isn't it really nice to work in a well-lit, climate-controlled environment? They are rare in my experience.
I like machining brass/bronze. They produce a nice little chip that’s not springy (unless you’re doing a drilling op.) 😌
Yeo, drilling and especially tapping that stuff is much less fun.
Have you tried approaching with the round over bit from both the side and the top? Once you have your zeros back off both directions and approach it moving down and over with each step. I find that results in a lot less chatter, at least for the first several passes.
Very nice work Adam ! ENJOYED..
Flying chips..NOW were talking!!!!
Proto pipe part 2
yeah, this is gonna sound goofy, but I love watching you use YOUR new tools in YOUR new shop! Way to go, Adam! 👍👍👊👊
Your machines looks new and glowing,
The finish on bronze always looks so nice
Btw doesn't it matter that the new parts have a wider head than the original?
....i wonder that too...
As long as it doesn’t touch the saddle as it moves there is no problem.
Also wondered, but @july8xx has it right - if it clears everything then it won't be a problem, and I'm sure that Adam checked the clearance before using that cutter or he would have done something else.
That was 1200rpm?! Can hardly hear it
Your new shop looks too clean!
Those new machine tools are too quiet !!
Nice job thanks for sharing
Enjoyed parts 1/2…good discussion/demonstration/build….lots of lessons
What is the main reason for the new shop?
AFAIK, Adam is developing a new piece of property. Once that's completed, he merge all his equipment into a single, custom, shop.
Video showroom studio