DIY Compressor Air Dryer, Aftercooler Water Separator
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 12 ก.ย. 2024
- DIY compressor air dryer,
built using a 1991 Ford F250 A/C condenser, copper lines, high pressure/high temp hoses, compression fittings and air moisture filter from Harbor Freight.
It works great !!! :D
It lowered the temperature going in to the air tank by over 200 degrees.
I placed a filter before the air goes back into the tank so that there would be less moisture going into the main tank.
When I recorded this I had not connected the fan to power because I was waiting for the "power converter" to convert current from 230 to 12volts.
The temperature difference was all just by the air being cooled in the A/C condenser.
Let me know if you have any questions and I would try to answer the best I can.
Ps. credit to chevahaulic for coming up w/ the original design,
I just modify it to suit my needs :)
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Nice job using these parts to condense the moisture out of the compressed air. I have been an ASE Master Tech since 1978, now retired and wish I had that much wall space. Shelving everywhere! Hey, how are you powering your 12 volt DC condenser fan? Battery on a charger perhaps? Also, your concern on different metals for connectors would be “Galvanic” reaction. Buy some dielectric grease in the automotive center of your home store. It’s about $5 in 2020 dollars, plus it works great on your vehicles. Use on connectors exposed to water but also the bulbs in the sockets, tag light, head lamps and even the positive terminal on the battery. Note; The stuff sold in the “Electrical” department as it is meant by code for aluminum wire in panels. Same, but different and twice the price.
Also, for anyone looking for a used A/C condenser, find the old ones he used that has round tubing as the new stuff uses extruded aluminum that has tiny rows of holes and could restrict flow, plugging easy and used on 2000 & newer R134a refrigerant. These will work but may not have enough round tubing to attach to. Nice job, good audio & video on a popular garage project to help if painting or just keeping your air tools from going bad quicker. Purchase some air tool oil, use before and after. Hang a dedicated old towel in the same spot to clean your air tools. The main worry about PVC / CPVC is heat first and certain chemicals. A friend of mine has been running 125 PSI for 13 years now. God bless buddy. Old wrench gives two thumbs up! Like & Subscribe everyone!
thanks Dean
for the condenser fan I am using a 220 to 12 volts converter, just make sure you pick one w/ the correct amperage :)
I have it wired so that it comes on when the compressor turns on.
@Dean Kay Sir that's an excellent informative comment! Much appreciated, you gave me some ideas! You rock! Take care!!
All great points - except for the PVC. Probably the 'riskiest' of all the 'rigging' going on here. Just because it works, isn't necessarily the 'safest'. Coming from an Air Force retired (certified) mechanic myself after 24 years, just for perspective. Just shared thoughts... not trying to sling harsh criticism but I would certainly consider alternative tubing for safety. Cheers.
Dielectric Grease is NOT for aluminum conductors. It is called Oxide Inhibitor, or by trade name No-ALOX, is greyish and/or black in color and extremely messy and permanent staining on fabric. Dielectric Grease is used to inhibit corrosion on lugs, wire connections of same type wire and coupling connectors to preserve the connection conductivity. It can also be used on battery terminals. Stainless Steel fittings are good for copper connections.
@@anonimous2451 You are correct if you are wiring a service entry for a house, garage, barn or hog shed.
Otherwise, regularly dielectric grease is used everyday on copper wire on automotive applications.
Who uses aluminum in a car? It was tried and failed bad. Aluminum wire is used on home power services and requires a different oxide formula. Thanks for pointing this out for those who use aluminum wire on their automobiles! Now tell us what metal is used on satellites and protective anti-oxidant is used on their terminals. Could it be a "Hexavalent" compound? Jeesh!
*I like what you've done, great job! Except for the PVC air line... I have personally seen PVC air line blowouts 3 or 4 different times and let me tell you, it's f×××ing dangerous as hell. People dont realize the explosive potential energy that pnuematic systems possess. Its is far more dangerous than hydraulic pressure, when a hydraulic hose burst open all of the potential energy in psi is immediately lost whereas pnuematic explosion is so dangerous because of the compression of the air makes instant decompression so violently dangerous. If your heart is set on using PVC at least change out the lines every couple years or before the pvc becomes brittle because thats when the blowouts start happening especially in extreme cold weather and extreme hot weather.*
You did great by putting those loose 1 turn coils on each side to reduce vibration transmission.
Most people would never have thought of that.
thanks 👍🙂
A lot of people would not even notice that,
you have a good eye 👍
The coil going from the compressor to the heat exchanger also allows for thermal expansion of the copper when it heats from room temperature to 200+ degrees.
What should be pointed out is that in this setup only the water that's in excess of 100% humidity at room temperature is removed. While the ambient humidity in the room could be, say, 50%, after it's compressed and cooled like this the air that continues on to the tank contains no liquid, but it is now at 100% humidity, it's not dry, and the tank can still rust in this environment. Moisture condenses out because room temperature is below the dew point of the compressed air, and only the moisture in excess of what the air can carry at room temperature changes from vapor to liquid and gets removed. To get the air in the tank below 100%, your condenser would have to cool the air below room temperature, so that when it warms back up to room temperature in the tank it will be below 100% relative humidity. If your tank is in an unheated garage and left with air in it, water will condense in the tank as soon as it cools anything below the temperature the room was at when it was put in.
While I see PVC often used for compressed air, it's dangerous and it's an OSHA violation to use it for this purpose. Copper or aluminum are better choices. I also would have turned the tee fittings in the supply line sideways so the hose to the regulator would lie flat against the wall instead of sticking out.
Get lost
Nice set up. I’ve watched a lot of TH-cam videos concerning this topic. So far your set up and TH-cam is the best.
Wow !
Thank you very much :)
That is the nicest fan setup I have seen for these aftercooler projects. Has anyone noticed that some clown who is plugging Everlast (I call them Neverlast) products has posted a comment like “I need one of these for my Everlast plasma cutter” on just about every video like this? Pretty sad.
Did he ever find his fan for his Everlast plasma? I'm looking also.
That’s what radiators do. Cool things. Nice build
Thanks 🙂👍
I would suggest that you lower the condenser and lines below the compressor outlet so all water drains towards your blue canister and doesn't have a path back due to the effect of gravity after you shut down. Any moisture or water getting into the compressor can cause corrosion or worse, enough to hydraulically lock the piston at start up.
Nice step up. Definitely worth it.
Thanks for the suggestion,
The air inlet portion which is on the left is the highest point on the condenser and the part that is very hot.
The lowest point on the condenser is the rt side, my though was that any drainage will be towards the lowest point.
On the left side the temperature is very hot because it has not have time to cool down, since it is before it enters the condenser.
There is also a loop on the lt side before the head and if there was a drop of water on the copper tube close to the head,
it would evaporate very fast because that pipe gets really hot.
Hopefully this explain my train of though :)
A picture is worth a thousand words. Thank you.
Fuel injection hose clamps are stronger, they are meant for higher pressure, than those worm gear type hose clamps.
Great job. Too bad so many people don't understand the physics of cooling the air to get the moisture to drop out. 👍
Simple, inexpensive and elegant. Thank you for sharing! : )
Nice job! Gonna use some of your ideas so thank you very much for taking time to document everything you did🤝👍
Been running a condenser out of a 84 Chevy truck for years on a 120 gallon tank, sandblasting several tractors and seems like a thousand parts in a cabinet, works like a champ, but not before I added it, wet sand would worry the mess out of me, kept thinking my hose was stopped up and all it turn out to be is moisture from the compressor keeping the sand from falling through small hole into the flow of air
hello all, i have read many comments here about the PVC pipe this guy used, instead of 40 use 80 it does cost a little more but i built sewer plants long time ago and we tested 80 at 200 psi for 4 hours to pass the test, just a thought, have a good day
Really enjoyed the creativity and resourcefulness in this video. Thanks for uploading.
So many people add a cooler or condensor and never use a fan. There is some cooling with no fan but the fan really makes it better. Its all about heat exchange with the air rushing over the fins and tubes. Maybe a filter to clean the air so that the condensor doesn't get plugged up with cat hair and dust.
Hey Lincoln max really like your video I was checking that out this morning I think I’m gonna make my shit up just the same appreciate all the part numbers and a very well put together video man take it easy buddy thanks
thanks 👍🙂
I hope it works out for you as good as it has been working out for me
Great job recording and even better job explaining your project !!! Thanks for sharing with us....
great idea using the ac condenser !! thanks for sharing , I'm going to build this one !!!!!!!!!!!
Nice job I will have to copy you job for my compressor been putting it of too long thanks for sharing
The reason you dont connect copper to aluminum or steel is due to electrolysis.you can use copper but it will build calcium over time. Brass fittings are good to prevent an electrolysis reaction.dielectric unions for residential plumbing systems to connect different material pipes are made from steel and brass.
The only issue with this set up is its gonna drop flow rate, 90 degree bents have to be avoided at all costs and a a/c condenser is basically a cluster of 180 degree hell! lol. I guess as long as it can keep up with the volume of the air tool then its fine! But for high volume tools that need something like 10+ CFM to operate, you'd be better off with a small cooler with a lot less bends in it and a higher powered fan. I've seen a couple other designs on here that use compact oil coolers instead, and they seem to be getting room temperature results, so there is no downside from what I can see.
I was always under the impression that schedule 40 PVC for compressor lines was a bad idea because of max pressure.
Most schedule 40 PVC is rated for 250 psi so there shouldn't be an issue.
@@Peter-V_00 What about fittings? Is threaded or solvent weld rated for more than 200psi?
@@Peter-V_00 reading more about it, seems the issue isn't about max psi rating it's about the brittleness of pvc in freezing temp and old age. I guess it is known to explode sending plastic bits everywhere. Osha doesn't allow it. But also it's super easy to not do the solvent welds good enough. Nuematic pressure and hydraulic pressure act very differently in these situations.
@@sergeantseven4240 I'm pretty sure the assumption could be made that the fittings and solvent joints are equal to the pipe rating, otherwise the pipe would need to be de-rated to reflect actual operating limits, most compressors operate at 125 psi and lower. Yes I know there are some people that insist on jacking up operating pressure but they are usually the people that misunderstand pressure vs volume, 200 psi is worthless if the CFM rating is too low meaning the system runs out of breath too early.
@@sergeantseven4240 You're right. I've always heard it was a bad idea to used pvc pipe because it could burst and send plastic pieces everywhere, which could be dangerous.
Great video! Doing this right now so I can sandblast without moisture.
hope this works good for you because Im going to try it. nice work
A 125 degree difference is definitely enough to get my attention! I guess this is why stock/default condenser / dryers actually look very similar to the A/C condenser you're using. I have an old 100 gallon / 5 hp unit I'm setting up and think I should go with this design. How are you powering the fan and is it located on the wall behind the condenser radiator? How does it switch on and off and if a 12v automotive fan are you using a AC to DC transformer of some type for it? Sorry for all the questions, I could really use the help. Thank you in advance!
Hey
It makes a huge difference, when you use air as much as I do.
The fan is mounted to the back of the condenser and both are hang on the wall with long "L" brackets to give more space for air to flow.
I am using an AC to DC transformer ( One has to pick one based on the fan one is using, n it's power requirements )
I wired it to the switch junction on the compressor, so that it turns on when the compressor turns on and shuts off when compressor shuts off automatically.
I hope that helps and good luck w/ your project 🙂👍
@@LincolnMaxnCo Thanks a lot for the info. I'm going to make a parts list tonight and get started. My compressor is a big Saylor Beall 705. Do you use any additional air dryer or condenser after the tank? I've seen countless crazy set-ups on youtube with copper pipe and it seems most people who do it dont get the fact that cooling and condensing before the tank is really the best way to go. Regardless, do you think anything else is needed from the tank out.
@@oldowl4290
Yes, the air goes from condenser to
1- small blue/gray water separator
2-to main tank
3-from main tank to PVC pipe
4- then there is the first water trap
5- there is a slope on the PVC pipe wich helps separate any moisture build up.
6-then second water trap
7-then I have 2 water separators on the wall
8- then I have the female connector for my air hose.
As for anything else needed, I would say it depends on what you are using your air for.
I build my set up mainly for painting and to prolong the life of my tools and compressor.
Good luck w/ your projects 👍
very good job and sound thinking, I do the same thing, nice bone dry tank is nice.
That's solid, smart thinking bro!
thanks Rick B 👍
Never use pvc for air lines! Shrapnel when it goes!
That was exactly my thought. Although the dryer was great. I can deal with the skewed temp measurements from reflective surfaces. But, That shop is a death trap being lined with compressed air PVC bombs. I’d be nervous as hell to go in there.
@@hybridamericandude3575 I have heard these horror story's for, I forget, how many years, I'm now 80 years old and have never seen or have heard first hand knowledge of these explosions. I know of not one or two shops so equipped but several and have seen not one problem
I've used pvc for overs 10 years no problems
I have seen the aftermath of the pvc failure. I have to admit it was the piping coming from the compressor that was mounted on exterior of shop, so the sun and heat can make the pvc brittle. Still, when it goes the pvc turns to pieces unlike copper or pex that just open up/expand into a crack to let the pressure out.
I worked in an electronics factory where every machine used air. We used a monster sized compressor and every line piped throughout the plant was PVC.
Taking notes here. Ready to mod my C H 60 gallon.
Nice solution, with measurements! How is the pressure drop across the radiator? Also, I just had a PVC setup fail with age since PVC pipe gets brittle over time. I just replaced it with a large diameter air hose.
Thanks,
I wanted to make sure to include the sizes of the adapters because I knew it could help some people.
I will eventually replace it but it's working great so far :)
I don't notice any preassure drop since it is regulated on the tank I get the same pressure/psi as I had it set before.
Nice job!
Not a bad idea to try and use less connections like for your regulator/filter why not attach that straight to the pipe instead of using more hose and connections? Just a thought
Thanks for the video. I hope you don't mind but I stole your idea with the barking dog, but for a rooster on my videos. Lol
Wow awesome job thanx
nice job, good video
Thanks :)
what did you wire the fan to as it is for a 12 volt system
Good job... though you failed to show how you wired in a 12v fan to a 120v circuit
What is the max PSI rating of that radiator. It would be one heck of an explosion if radiators designed for 14PSi have 175PSi in it.
it is an air conditioner condenser, on a car it can get up to 200psi really
Nicolás Rodriguez - thanks for replying. Hopefully these radiators literally specify a PSI rating.
@@lonniedomnitz1720 high side pressure relief on the average car ac system is north of 400psi so no worries about utilizing an ac condensor
that blue catcher of the water,what inlet outlet has ? sorry,,,I see now 1/2,,great work
Maybe consider using a more modern condenser (parallel flow) and keeping the condenser lower for drainage. Nice setup overall!
I think your right, as the hot air cools after the compressor stops, there will be condensation draining into the pump. Lowering the radiator below the pump outlet seems great for long term preventative maintenance.
The tubes are so tiny in parallel flow condensers, I would worry about restricted air flow.
Also, I kinda think (maybe??) this automobile condenser trick might have some application if applied to the air coming out of the tank, instead of between the compressor and tank. I'm not saying that putting it between the compressor and tank isn't a functional plan.
But you're gonna have to drain the main tank regularly anyway. So why not let the main tank be your first method of cooling?
@@dalemarkwell1171 when you cool the hot air, condensation develops. The whole point of this is to keep as much moisture out of the tank as possible. The air is hottest when coming directly out of the compressor. That being said, you are correct, you still will have to drain the main tank even with this kind of setup, although less moisture will build up (won't build up as quickly). With parallel flow condensers although the holes are small, there are a bunch of them, which cumulatively equate to a very high flow rate (shouldn't restrict flow from compressor to tank, in most cases) although you will have to spec the condenser to the flow rate of your particular compressor
Are you getting a pressure loss coming out the tank to your tool. Or at the tool. I’ve got a trailer compressor that produces a nice bit of condensation. But I’m sand blasting with it and don’t want to loose any pressure at the nozzle. So I run it it with no moisture trap. I just drain the tank every 15 minutes till no more water shoots out. Takes about 30 seconds to disperse condensate.
I am not getting pressure loss, I mainly use the compressor for my DA sander n for painting, the pressure stays the same since it is still being regulated by the regulator.
I have read about others using this set up for sandblasting and it helps a lot to remove the moisture and to keep the compressor cooler.
I used to get water coming out of the line w/ using my DA sander, even w/ two filters and now I get no water at all, most of the water is trapped in the first canister before going into the compressor tank.
The air flow does not circulate throughout all the tubes in a flo pattern
Nice setup, however in a cooler/condenser setup, you always send liquids or air/gases in from the top of the condenser or radiator.
Thanks
The inlet portion on the condenser is on the upper part which is the left side, the lower part is the outlet which is on the right side 👍🙂
@@LincolnMaxnCo
You're aware that you build an aftercooler with a water trap and not a compressed air dryer, yes?
The compressed air after your cooler will be 100% relative humidity and if there is further cooling in your tank or the lines/tools after the tank there will be more water falling out of the air.
To dry the compressed air below 100% RH you need an actual dryer that either uses a refrigerant cooler or desiccant.
Please read: www.air-compressor-guide.com/articles/water-in-compressed-air-calculations/
@@joansparky4439 Thanks for the link,
and the explanation 👍
I call my set up a dryer because that is what I saw other people calling it when I was doing research about it.
I have to say that I am very happy w/ my set up and I get no more water coming out of the line, even while constantly using a grinder.
Before I had this set up I constantly struggle w/ water coming out of the line, even if I drained the compressor tank every time
I might get a desiccant dryer to use before painting a big project but for now my set up is working great for me 🙂
Can you tell if you have less water in your air tank?
Yes, I get a lot less water in my main air tank,
most of the water ends up in the first small "tank/filter"
I know this is a old video but was wondering how you wired the fan on the condenser?
Hi sir thanks for the idea , but I don't see a non-return valve on the tank ?? so the air leaks out after you shut off the pressure switch , someone correct me if I'm wrong
I understand the concept of cooling the air but where is the moisture actually released from the system?
The first place is the small blue tank/filter before it goes into the compressor ( that is where most of the moisture ends up), the second point is the compressor thank at the bottom, then there is a water trap at the bottom of each of the 3 lower parts of the pipes.
There is also two in line filters before the connection to the air hose.
Is that a serpintine condensor or parallel condensor ? Thanks for the info.
I think it is a serpintine since it is from an older truck,
The tubes on it are much bigger than a modern condenser.
I hope that helps 🙂
Why do so many TH-cam'ers wrap the teflon tape the wrong way?
the PVC is kinda sketchy though be careful
So an Intercooler for your compressor. Does it fill up the tank faster since it is denser air?
I am not sure because I never timed how long it took to fill up.
but it might be faster 🤔
Hot air is larger on the molecular level, cooling it causes pressure drop, part of the eqation of tank recovery is CFM volume, the pressure has much less effect than actual flow volume (CFM).
How did you wire the fan into your set up? Just wondering since its 12 volt and your compressor is either 120 or 220 volts.
My compressor is a 220 volts
I bought a 220volts to 12 volts converter and I wired it to the same power feed in the compressor so that it only turns on when the compressor turns on and it does it automatically :)
Just make sure you select a converter w/ the correct amperage (depends on you fan).... because if the amperage is too low it will spin the fan slower than it should
My only concern is the pvc pipe for your system. I worked in a shop with pvc air lines and one day the line blew. I had just stepped outside and it sounded like a bomb went off. When the line broke, it split all the way down the length of the pipe and there were shards stuck in the walls, ceiling, boxes, and even in the doors. The longest shard was 3 feet long. It was a good thing nobody was in there because they may have been killed. Please dont use pvc for air. Steel pipe is much safer. I know it costs more, but it is definitely worth it.
Another option that isn't super expensive would be to use PEX pipe. But, you need to make sure it isn't exposed to UV light (or sunlight). I am planning on using 1" PEX wrapped with insulation for my main run, with either 1/2" or 3/4" drops.
what song is this?
Where did you get the blue regulator/ moisture filter you are using?
I got it from Harbor Freight :)
I just removed the regulator part
So the condensor hose size was 1/2 already?
I was about to ask the same question
okay so the air going into the tank is cooler, what is the benefit of that? ( not trying to be a wise ass, just don;t understand).
making the air cooler before going into the main tank helps to remove condensation before going into the main tank.
This set up is to remove water from the air.
It also helps to keep the motor a lot cooler.
To me the main benefit is not getting water while painting something and it helps extend the life of my air tools 👍🙂
How does cooling the air help anything? Very curious , not being sarcastic or. Condescending
Cooling the air helps speed up the condensation of the moisture in the air.
By doing so it separates the water from the air.
By routing the drain hose to the first small tank, it sends most of the moisture to that tank/water separator.
The reason I use the set up is so that I won't have water coming out of the air hose.
water/moisture in the lines when painting something can ruin whatever you are painting.
It also helps protect my tools from moisture.
I used to use three moisture filters n one small inline filter and I would still get water in the line.
Now I don't get any water in the lines :)
some say that running this set up, will also prolong the life of the compressor since the compressor does not get as hot as it did before.
Nice condensor. That PVC will kill you though - it is illegal in most locations for use with compressed air.
thank you :)
The PVC is SCH 40 and it can hold 480psi,
I probably run 120psi max, and it is only pressurized when I am working.
I have been in a shop when a pipe let go...It should be fine :)
@@LincolnMaxnCo Read the second and 4th paragraph. Never use PVC for air lines. Just don't want to see you get hurt. www.pvcfittingsonline.com/resource-center/using-pvc-pipe-for-compressed-air/
Clint thanks for the heads up
the PVC set up is only pressurized when I am working on something that requires air, all the other time there is no air on the PVC pipes.
I will probably replace the pipes later on with something else but they are working good so far.
@@clintbonnett3449 You are citing an OSHA regulation, unless this is in a workplace (occupational) with employees or open to the public the "regulation" is moot to a homeowner, OSHA has no jurisdiction at a private residence or other private location.
I have built a cnc plasma table and water in the air make plasma cut poorly
You can't use a condenser look how it flows its not what you want it dosen't flow in a straight direction .
Could you provide the dimensions of the condenser and the fan diameter? Thanks.
Sure,
Condenser is 26"x18"
fan is 14"
👍
any chance you could post a link to the power converter your using thanks
I could not recommend the one I use since the first one did not work like it should 😑
I would suggest to google 230 to 12volt converter and decide which one you will need depending on the amps needed by he fan you use.
I hope that helps 👍
PVC NOT GOOD NOT GOOD AT ALL, TELL ME HOW MANY GOT HURT WHEN IT EXPLODES
What filter did you use?
If you are referring to the first small tank, it is from Harbor Freight, it was an "industrial filter/regulator" but I removed the regulator part since I am only using it as the first main water trap.
The other two small inline filters after the PVC pipe are also from Harbor Freight
I hope that answered your question 🙂👍
@@LincolnMaxnCo Thank you, that does answer my question. I just got a 5hp 80 gallon compressor and I will be doing the same modification.
air dryer
What’s up with the dog lol
Stop it,just coil up some 5/8 copper and put in water bucket.
Do you have to add refrigerant to the condenser?
No,
The condenser is like a "cooler" for the air
PVC big mistake and very dangerous
It was all good till I saw the PVC pipe 🤦🏻♂️
You have made an air conditioning system,,,way too much drop in air temperature from air restriction,,,means your blowing high pressure through small orifice,,like an a/c unit,,,not good your going to destroy the compressor,,, should use all 1/2 are greater..
Look up industrial air compressor dryers....
What I build it just a home made version of it
The reason I used a older condenser is because it has bigger tubes inside the unit, unlike the new condensers which would have more restriction.
This set up should make the compressor last longer since it runs much cooler than before.
Before my set up the top of the compressor would be so hot that it was hard to touch it.
@@LincolnMaxnCo you said yourself it has 3/8 tubes,, your compressor has 1/2 coming out of head,,,and air is still the same temperature coming out,,,cooler after going trough coils, 3/8 is too small,,just trying to help you,, many found out to late what restrictions will do,,, it will shorten life of compressor,
@@LincolnMaxnCo industrials have 1/2 are greater,,, I've been there 3 years ago and did all the tests and if you would have blown air through the a/c condenser you would have felt the blow back as i did,,and went to 1/2 .
George, one of the reasons I went with my set up was cost,
If I could afford it I would have purchased an industrial air dryer.
The main reason was that I know that it has worked great for others.
Today I was using an air grinder for almost 1 hr straight and I did not get any moisture at all out of the air hose, that is a huge plus for me.
Also I did not get any moisture last time I painted something :)
If you don't mind me asking,
what kind of set up did you end up with ?
and what do you use your compressor for ?
@@LincolnMaxnCo should check again,,many that said it worked now are saying there having compressor problems from restricting the air flow,,, shorted the life, they work fine if all the tubes are as big are bigger then the tank feed pipe compressor has.
Get rid of that PVC pipe!!! Deadly!
pvc pipe lol
Hello Lincoln, I was wondering where did the 14 inch Radiator fan come off of Car/truck? Make model?... or did it come off another machinery Thanks In Advance:)
Hi,
The fan came from a vehicle in a salvage yard.
The fan is not an OEM part, that was added to the vehicle and was aftermarket.
Ok, Thank you For answering my question quickly. Awesome Setup!!!( TWO THUMBS UP)!!!!