Usually on the smartphone, sometimes on a 10 inch tablet or on my PC, but this third episode I cast to my widescreen. Highly recommended for the people who are eager to make this puzzle as well. Kudos to you for your patient commitment to be able to follow this process at a manageable rhythm, so that you may be able to perform the same actions yourself someday with the pause button as a lifebuoy, and the widescreen as your magnifying glass.
@J. Verfaillie I usually record all my videos using my smartphone and like you say I think most people watch with their phone or tablet, I am glad it comes out well on a TV as well. I usually try to record and edit in minimum 720p I think less than that will make it a bad experience on a tv
If you are going to cut the threaded section of the valve body down, if you get an M16x1mm fine thread nut, it is the same thread as the valve body. By threading this on before you cut, it gives you a cutting guide to ensure your cut is straight and also helps to recut the thread when you take it off.
Howzit Tyrone. Thanks for putting in the time to make these videos. It actually inspired me to buy an Artemis cp1 m(same internals) and I have done most of the mods I learned in your videos. I'm currently waiting on delivery of some springs and a dremel so I can tinker a little more. I'm also keen to make an attempt at what's called a Bstaley mod. It's essentially an o - ring placed between the hammer face and valve pin. It has to be sized right so that it doesn't interfere with the hammer strike. What its meant to do is reduce hammer bounce and I theorize that it would also create a better seal so that air is not lost unnecessarily with each shot. So you get more consistent power and more shots out of your co2 cannister. I also have a theory that it would allow you to use a lighter valve spring with a stronger hammer spring(or spacer or stretched spring) without all the gas leaking out. Would be great to see you make a video about this.
@junaid hussein Thanks for leaving a comment and I am glad to hear you have had good results with some of the mods. I have not seen this mod before but definitely sounds interesting. I have seen a hammer bounce mod where the hammer spring is limited by a piece of wire/rope but I haven't tried it myself
@@African-Budget-Pellet-Gunner I think that could be the mod I did with a piece of cave diving line. It worked well, but I cannot vouch for longevity of it (although mine did at least 500 shots before I removed it this morning). I replaced it with an internal metal SSG which also serves as the spring guide. Also opened up the ports to 4mm (5.5mm CP2). With the long barrel, standard spring and a little bit of preload on the spring... - At least 40 accurate shots from a CO2 canister (I could only test to 15m today, want to take the tests to 25m but will only be able to do that next weekend). - NO hammer bounce at all (the SSG stops the spring just before the hammer hits the valve). - Average of 545 FPS = 10.79 FPE with the 16.36 gr. H&N Field Target pellets I used. Pity it is not possible to share images here...or maybe I just do not know how to.
@@johnconnor513 I tried that in the week with a 3D printed ring, printed with TPU which is flexible. Works well enough, but this morning I built a metal SSG which works a lot better.
Be aware that when you drill, it will make a bigger hole than it says on the drill, this is because normal drill bits flex and wobble, precession. When aligning the barrel to breech I stick the shank of a particular drill into the holes to line them up. This is a method of measuring a hole too, micrometer the shank up. Note shank and bit may be different sizes and drills vary a fair bit. I did use a tapered reamer on mine and found the shank that fits to be 3.5mm and goes through the hole gauge. Although this is a 9/64 drill (which is 3.57mm) the other 9/64 does not fit, that one is 3.6mm shank. There is a geometry thing to prevent the pellet dropping into the hole, max size for 4.5mm is 3.5mm, for 5.5mm is 4.3mm. Note that is in the barrel - the transfer port and valve may be bigger. In fact experiment with the transfer port because a smaller one may accelerate the gas, venturi effect. And ideally for that venturi, the port should be curved in section (rounded out top and bottom). By choosing the right transfer port diameter you can tailor the fps to provide best grouping to your taste, this being a restriction you can change. Having drilled into the barrel you may have a burr on the inside. A spherical polishing burr tool about 4mm should just fit inside on a manual holder (no not the Dremel) to have a bit of a twiddle and remove them. Or the brass barrel brush.
He Drilled out to 3.8mm on this video for the 4.5mm caliber, are you saying this is too much? It worked for him, I think in another vid he shows he has 900FPS now from these modifications
@@ravinitroYes. The hole size follows certain engineering principals. I used a tapered reamer so it is 3.6mm against the brass transfer port but 3.5mm in the barrel. I then found a few pellets would stick and I had to aris the lip, smooth the sharp edge off (which is like trying to do fine detail on a ship in a bottle, small diamond rotary burr turned by hand). 900fps is probably way above optimum barrel velocity for best accuracy, typically 600-750fps from this barrel.
I would be very leery polishing the valve stem and guide. What you can do with the poppet is hold the back in a small chuck and turn it slowly in say an electric screwdriver against some flour paper (the finest stuff). Do not, do not, do not, let the paper touch the cone of the valve face. And wash the grit off because if any grit gets on the valve faces it will ruin it, and both parts will have to be replaced. Been there and the valve cannot be reground like on a car, that will destroy it. The valve seat is aluminium and grit will stick into it forever. To polish the valve guide, a wooden skewer that just fits spun on an electric drill, no grit just wood or bamboo, it is soft aluminium and will be polished. Do not polish too much material off, we want a smooth sliding fit, not sloppy. If it is sloppy, CO2 will escape up the valve stem instead of all up the barrel, just like exhaust does on a clapped out cylinder head. Alternatively hold the back of the poppet in a mini chuck in the electric screwdriver and spin the valve stem in the valve guide, that will true it up and polish it just enough. You can do this by hand but it is boring.
For all the components I would suggest a thin multipurpose oil, like what you get for sowing machines or fishing reels. The only exception would be on the actual seal for the co2 capsule here strictly silicone oil. You can use silicone oil on the other o-rings which will not be physically moving but do not use silicone oil on moving components like bolt action, hammer, valve stem etc.
Hi Tyrone, can you help me diagnose an issue with my air pistol? I have replaced the CO2 canister seal, but when I try to install a new canister, it immediately discharges all the contents.....
Alright. Thank you. I'm going to mod both this and the PP750. Not sure which one I'm ordering first. I'll check back in with the results if anyone cares.
I have the Canada .177 under 500fps version which I modded by adding the maximum of washers just before the hammer spring. Now it hits way stronger than before but I equaly lost many effective shots per bottle. (Heh science) When you drill the ports and scrape off metal from the chamber to allow more CO2, how does it affect the shots count per CO2 bottle ?
Hi Tyrone, can you please give me the dimensions of the piercing seal ? Inner +outer diameter +thickness. I have to order some as reserve. Are they silicon or rubber.? Have a nice day and Dankjewel en hartelijke groeten uit Nederland
@@pauloramos8326 provavelmente vc encontrara peça de reposição pra sua CP2 na Loja Arsenal no Paraguai!... Se tiver alguém que possa trazer é uma boa opção... Abc Elton
Usually on the smartphone, sometimes on a 10 inch tablet or on my PC, but this third episode I cast to my widescreen. Highly recommended for the people who are eager to make this puzzle as well. Kudos to you for your patient commitment to be able to follow this process at a manageable rhythm, so that you may be able to perform the same actions yourself someday with the pause button as a lifebuoy, and the widescreen as your magnifying glass.
@J. Verfaillie I usually record all my videos using my smartphone and like you say I think most people watch with their phone or tablet, I am glad it comes out well on a TV as well. I usually try to record and edit in minimum 720p I think less than that will make it a bad experience on a tv
Merci Tyrone pour tous ces merveilleux conseils 👍
If you are going to cut the threaded section of the valve body down, if you get an M16x1mm fine thread nut, it is the same thread as the valve body. By threading this on before you cut, it gives you a cutting guide to ensure your cut is straight and also helps to recut the thread when you take it off.
Yes this will definitely work as an aid while cutting. Thanks for popping in @Steve C
how much velocity fps is gained by cutting half the threaded section off?
Hard to say, I didn't do it in isolation, it was together with other mods
Merci pour le super conseil 👍
Howzit Tyrone. Thanks for putting in the time to make these videos. It actually inspired me to buy an Artemis cp1 m(same internals) and I have done most of the mods I learned in your videos. I'm currently waiting on delivery of some springs and a dremel so I can tinker a little more. I'm also keen to make an attempt at what's called a Bstaley mod. It's essentially an o - ring placed between the hammer face and valve pin. It has to be sized right so that it doesn't interfere with the hammer strike. What its meant to do is reduce hammer bounce and I theorize that it would also create a better seal so that air is not lost unnecessarily with each shot. So you get more consistent power and more shots out of your co2 cannister. I also have a theory that it would allow you to use a lighter valve spring with a stronger hammer spring(or spacer or stretched spring) without all the gas leaking out. Would be great to see you make a video about this.
@junaid hussein Thanks for leaving a comment and I am glad to hear you have had good results with some of the mods. I have not seen this mod before but definitely sounds interesting. I have seen a hammer bounce mod where the hammer spring is limited by a piece of wire/rope but I haven't tried it myself
I think I've seen that as well. Called an Ssg-spring stop guide. I will let you know how it goes with o ring whatsaname. Keep making us proud bru🇿🇦
Thanks @junaid hussein we will keep working on the vids as best we can
@@African-Budget-Pellet-Gunner I think that could be the mod I did with a piece of cave diving line.
It worked well, but I cannot vouch for longevity of it (although mine did at least 500 shots before I removed it this morning).
I replaced it with an internal metal SSG which also serves as the spring guide.
Also opened up the ports to 4mm (5.5mm CP2).
With the long barrel, standard spring and a little bit of preload on the spring...
- At least 40 accurate shots from a CO2 canister (I could only test to 15m today, want to take the tests to 25m but will only be able to do that next weekend).
- NO hammer bounce at all (the SSG stops the spring just before the hammer hits the valve).
- Average of 545 FPS = 10.79 FPE with the 16.36 gr. H&N Field Target pellets I used.
Pity it is not possible to share images here...or maybe I just do not know how to.
@@johnconnor513 I tried that in the week with a 3D printed ring, printed with TPU which is flexible.
Works well enough, but this morning I built a metal SSG which works a lot better.
Be aware that when you drill, it will make a bigger hole than it says on the drill, this is because normal drill bits flex and wobble, precession.
When aligning the barrel to breech I stick the shank of a particular drill into the holes to line them up. This is a method of measuring a hole too, micrometer the shank up. Note shank and bit may be different sizes and drills vary a fair bit. I did use a tapered reamer on mine and found the shank that fits to be 3.5mm and goes through the hole gauge. Although this is a 9/64 drill (which is 3.57mm) the other 9/64 does not fit, that one is 3.6mm shank.
There is a geometry thing to prevent the pellet dropping into the hole, max size for 4.5mm is 3.5mm, for 5.5mm is 4.3mm. Note that is in the barrel - the transfer port and valve may be bigger. In fact experiment with the transfer port because a smaller one may accelerate the gas, venturi effect. And ideally for that venturi, the port should be curved in section (rounded out top and bottom). By choosing the right transfer port diameter you can tailor the fps to provide best grouping to your taste, this being a restriction you can change.
Having drilled into the barrel you may have a burr on the inside. A spherical polishing burr tool about 4mm should just fit inside on a manual holder (no not the Dremel) to have a bit of a twiddle and remove them. Or the brass barrel brush.
He Drilled out to 3.8mm on this video for the 4.5mm caliber, are you saying this is too much? It worked for him, I think in another vid he shows he has 900FPS now from these modifications
@@ravinitroYes. The hole size follows certain engineering principals. I used a tapered reamer so it is 3.6mm against the brass transfer port but 3.5mm in the barrel. I then found a few pellets would stick and I had to aris the lip, smooth the sharp edge off (which is like trying to do fine detail on a ship in a bottle, small diamond rotary burr turned by hand).
900fps is probably way above optimum barrel velocity for best accuracy, typically 600-750fps from this barrel.
Great video Tyrone! Artemis need to employ you! Hope you keeping well!
Thanks @Airgun Nostalgia glad you enjoyed it. Wouldn't mind working for or with Artemis but my Mandarin might be a little lacking
Not sure if you are going to do that later in the video ... I generally also polish the hole where the valve stem rides making it super smooth.
You can definitely polish the hole as well just be careful that you don't end up with a rattle fit
@@African-Budget-Pellet-Gunner Definitely don't want air going out that way ;)
I would be very leery polishing the valve stem and guide. What you can do with the poppet is hold the back in a small chuck and turn it slowly in say an electric screwdriver against some flour paper (the finest stuff). Do not, do not, do not, let the paper touch the cone of the valve face. And wash the grit off because if any grit gets on the valve faces it will ruin it, and both parts will have to be replaced. Been there and the valve cannot be reground like on a car, that will destroy it. The valve seat is aluminium and grit will stick into it forever. To polish the valve guide, a wooden skewer that just fits spun on an electric drill, no grit just wood or bamboo, it is soft aluminium and will be polished. Do not polish too much material off, we want a smooth sliding fit, not sloppy. If it is sloppy, CO2 will escape up the valve stem instead of all up the barrel, just like exhaust does on a clapped out cylinder head.
Alternatively hold the back of the poppet in a mini chuck in the electric screwdriver and spin the valve stem in the valve guide, that will true it up and polish it just enough. You can do this by hand but it is boring.
how much fps was gained by removing half the threads?
Hi Tyrone. Drilled the opening of the valve to 3.8mm now gas just blow out. Where can I get another in SA? Thx
Hi Christiaan, send me an email and I will check how I can help you out tyrone8511@gmail.com
What kind of oil should one use to lube these mechanisms?
For all the components I would suggest a thin multipurpose oil, like what you get for sowing machines or fishing reels. The only exception would be on the actual seal for the co2 capsule here strictly silicone oil. You can use silicone oil on the other o-rings which will not be physically moving but do not use silicone oil on moving components like bolt action, hammer, valve stem etc.
Hi Tyrone, can you help me diagnose an issue with my air pistol? I have replaced the CO2 canister seal, but when I try to install a new canister, it immediately discharges all the contents.....
Sure, is the gas coming out the barrel or at the joint between the tube and breech. Have you done any mods to the gun
How much larger, or what size bit would you use for the .22?
For the .22 I would go for a 4.2mm but some guys have gone up to 4.5mm without issues. Just remember your shot count will reduce significantly
@@African-Budget-Pellet-Gunner Thanks for the quick response. Might you know the ball park of velocity and shot count for the .22? Thanks!
Std for the .22 with long barrel is around 500fps with around 40shots. With all the upgrades you can expect 560-570fps and 15-20 shots from a capsule
Alright. Thank you. I'm going to mod both this and the PP750. Not sure which one I'm ordering first. I'll check back in with the results if anyone cares.
Awesome, I am always interested in some feedback, Thanks
I have the Canada .177 under 500fps version which I modded by adding the maximum of washers just before the hammer spring. Now it hits way stronger than before but I equaly lost many effective shots per bottle.
(Heh science)
When you drill the ports and scrape off metal from the chamber to allow more CO2, how does it affect the shots count per CO2 bottle ?
It will also in rease fps but will decrease shot count
Hi Tyrone, can you please give me the dimensions of the piercing seal ? Inner +outer diameter +thickness. I have to order some as reserve. Are they silicon or rubber.?
Have a nice day and Dankjewel en hartelijke groeten uit Nederland
Hi Peter, OD=9mm ID=2mm thickness=2mm, these are made from a special silicone usually, soft but tough
@@African-Budget-Pellet-Gunner great! Thank you so much Tyrone, will try so get it somewhere......
I don't have a electric drill 😒
Boa noite precisava do quit reparo dessa carabina
Hi Paulo, what is wrong with your rifle and where do you live then I will see how I can possibly help
Está vazando na entrada do CO2 quando aperta sou de Itápolis sp Brasil
@@pauloramos8326 provavelmente vc encontrara peça de reposição pra sua CP2 na Loja Arsenal no Paraguai!... Se tiver alguém que possa trazer é uma boa opção... Abc Elton