To learn electronics in a very different and effective way, and gain access to Mr Carlson's personal designs and inventions, visit the Mr Carlson's Lab Patreon page here: www.patreon.com/MrCarlsonsLab
Regarding J-hooking, I used to try and completely remove the components and resolder to the original connections, but you end up breaking stuff like tube socket terminals, terminal strips and the other component leads which are attached to the terminal you are trying to desolder. Many times, the tech who originally built the set has really taken two or more components and twisted the leads together and stuck them on one terminal with that wrapped tightly or sometimes they add them separately and twist in different directions on the terminal. Say you are trying to change a coupling cap and because of the way this was originally done, you break the tube socket terminal which has happened more than once to me especially if they are those bottom mounted sockets that have the laminated layers of phenolic sandwiching the metal pins. Now you have to take everything off and make a diagram, drill out the rivets which end up spinning, so it is damn near impossible. You end up with a mismatched socket, if you even have one on hand that fits the chassis hole and rivet holes and half the time you end up breaking more component leads so one or more may be short now, so you have to go back into the circuit further desoldering components that worked fine. Then what if you don't have the correct value resistor in the wattage you need. There are just a hundred problems you can cause completely taking out components. Or you could J-hook in the coupling cap and be done in literally one minute and it functions perfectly. After this happened to me a few times, I started j hooking. I feel it is more valuable to preserve the originality of the equipment instead of making a big mess of things. This saves so much money and time and works just fine.
The modern components are dwarfed by the oem ones and don't always fit in the same location. The leads either need to be extended or the circuit modified for the placement of components. I try to avoid having to solder to the rf or if coils to prevent melting them inside the cans. @@skullheadwater9839
I have a Lab series Tectonics with pluggable modules! Would you like it for free? You may have to repair old caps? Let me know? Love your channel been a bench tech sense 1970
Might bear in mind this is graduate level restoration here. Mr. Carlson sets high standards. Beginners or neophytes should not be discouraged, always put forth your best effort and strive to always improve. Don't be discouraged, don't expect perfection as you are learning.
I agree. Mr. Carlson chose his words carefully as to not discourage others from performing restorations. Every beginner makes errors and after the likely hundreds of various repairs and restorations, you will become a skilled artisan like Mr. Carlson. Trouble shooting: over time, with experience, is an art as well. Reading schematics will become second nature. One safety tip I always follow is my left hand is literally in my pocket or touching my lap when measuring gear with HV power inside.
I have high standards when repairing TV's ect at work, none of mine come back, it can't be said about some other engineers in the workshop unfortunately, some chase the money, personally I chase my pride of work, money wise I catch up when they have re-repairs to do which they don't get paid for, So I like to see Paul's standards
@@tseckwr3783 I stopped doing that at 50 years old after never getting shocked because of putting my hand where it didn't belong. It is said Tesla used to do that, so it is a good idea.😁
"There's never enough time to do it right but there is always time to do it over." I think Mac from Mac's Radio Service Shop once said that. Google it.
Mr Carlson is one of those Platinum standard engineers, a man of excellence and the best of the best in his field. I would always trust his judgment on these things and if you've seen enough of his in depth restorations, you would understand why.
Honestly, his complaints about the tools and components used in this restoration makes me feel like I should start saving the money I'm giving him on patreon and save up for better equipment...@@tedmoss
The Matsushita/Panasonic electrolytics are definitely counterfeit, Panasonic uses a "T" shape cap vent mark and these have a cross shape. I've bought so many legit Panny caps I just noticed it immediately. And if those are counterfeit, high likelyhood that the other poly type caps etc are as well
Of all the electronics channels on you tube you sir are the only one I would trust with my life as your commitment to perfection is way beyond all others your knowledge astounds me and I am in constant awe of your flawless application
I have been told by my engineer friends (my twin brother is an electrical engineer), that I am a better engineer than any they have run across, it must be that Scottish blood.
Hi Mr. Carlson, Been enjoying your videos for years, You have a wealth of knowledge, really know your stuff. I do repairs and restorations myself as a hobby, restorations are only as good as what the customer is willing to pay. Other than maybe a polarized plug, I think this restoration is somewhat acceptable, I don't see anything that's going to breakdown anytime soon. I'm very meticulous myself but in order to do a proper full restoration, it would need to be stripped down to the bare bones, therefore tripling or more the price. "Been there, done that".
I really do enjoy watching your channel, even though I know nothing about electronics. It's awesome to see your attention to detail, just like the folks at the factory, way back when people actually took pride in their work in producing great quality products that will last. A far cry from today's "throw-away" society. Keep up the great videos! Thank you
True, but the throwaway society did not come about for no reason, there were not enough people to do the work, I used to try. The solution was to make everything so cheap that you could throw it away and get a newer model. This idea was a continuation of the idea of mass production to make things afforabile. Tesla has given me a problem with that though because their cars are so good, I don't want to trade it in.
What a beautifully designed radio ! I would give the previous restoration a thumbs-up for at least adding a fuse, of the correct value. Most don't bother adding a fuse at all. Certainly the soldering work and replacement component choices might be dubious, but it is all protected by that 1A fuse.
Greetings Paul, I have enjoyed and gleaned much from your Mr. Carlson’s labs over the past few years, although house renovations have interrupted my viewing in the last several months. In the mid 70’s I purchased a Sherwood S-7100 Stereo receiver and Empire speakers. I have enjoyed the fine sounds these provide. However, recently when I turned the S-7100 on, I had no audio. The S-7100 receiver lights up the dial and the tuning meter appears to indicate when a station (AM or FM) is present. I checked speaker wiring and the power and speaker fuses, they appear okay. When stereo ear buds are plugged into the front panel a very mild sync buzz is heard. I suspect electrolytic capacitors may have failed but my knowledge and skill set, at age 82, are not sufficient to attempt this repair. Can you recommend a repair shop in Brantford, Ontario, Canada. Respectfully, thanking you in advance, Paul W. Aitchison
Again, only the best electronic repair videos come from your channel. Considering the knobs; I try to find at least one good knob (from any source) and make a silicone mold of it. Then I color an acrylic, two part polymer, pour and cure all the knobs that are needed. With this approach one gets perfect, beautiful knobs, that look antique, are very strong, and will last another 100 years. Also, the silicone molds can be used on other electronic projects!!
Good looking radio that maybe should be made safe for daily listening. I think it would be a nice future project... Thanks for sharing your expertise, Mr Carlson, and see you next time.
Attention to details would be the caption for this project. Like you said in the video, the restorer meant well, but you wouldn't use it. I really like how you explain things, Paul and also enjoy your professional assessments. Since I started watching you back in 2018, I worked to get my General Ham Radio license and have been working on getting my shack built. Still have my IC-7300 still in the box because I was supposed to have a 30' antenna tower in my back yard but my contractor didn't get around to me before the season ended, so will be doing that first thing thsi spring. I did buy an IC-705 with a Chameleon MPAS 2.0 portable antenna and have been enjoying radio again. I want to get back into CW because that's all I could use when I hac my novice licenso 40 plus years ago. Anyhow, love your posts and the inspiration that comes from thiem.
It is a nice looking set that, and with your touch it will keep its owner proud and assured. The other thing I don't like about that fuse holder is it was the wrong way round. You were able to plug the fuse into the end connected to the incoming live (?) line with your fingers on the other end of the fuse. The live feed should go to the shrouded end. You then plug the new fuse into the open dead equipment side first and then into the live shrouded end. just in case you have forgotten to unplug first. People often wire panel fuse holders the wrong way too.
I think Mr. Carlson has a point re: the fuse holder and the quality of the solder connections, but I would like to point out that mix-matched components is not in itself a bad thing and while J-hooks is not how he prefers to do his work, I see no safety problem with J hooks when done correctly (i.e. soldered with sufficient heat, routed in responsible ways, long sections of leads covered with spaghetti when needed etc.). A lot of hobbyists out there use whatever left over parts they have on hand before placing parts orders and something like modern film caps & modern resistors are not going to go bad sitting on a shelf for 2-5 years while waiting for the next project to use them up. A lot of the gripes of "where the restorer could have done better" like the eye tube orientation, or the dirty pushbuttons is not going to determine how safe the set is to leave plugged in. The fuse holder is absolutely a problem, as is any cold solder joints (remember: glowing faults can't be stopped by fuses, nor even AFCIs), but the rest is easily better than some of the "serviced" or "restored" stuff that shows up at hamfests & swapmeets. Not able to see the labels on the caps in the pictures, but I know some of the cheaper modern caps out there have very faint labeling and I have seen some with short-hand methods of denoting voltage ratings instead of spelling out "400V" or "630V" like the top-shelf mainbrand companies use. I forget the maker, but there was a Hong Kong company of polypropylene film caps that used a letter to denote the voltage rating (400v was one letter, 630v was marked "J" I think, I don't remember the specifics because its not a brand I use). Its plausible in my opinion that the person who did the work did use properly rated caps, but then its also plausible that they were ripped off by some fly by night chinese seller on wish or something like that. Counterfeit electrolytics for example have been a big problem for years.
A pleasant surprise to see a new video from you! Good morning first of all. I have an idea for a video if you're open to it. I would love to see your take on circuit design computer programs. You have a ton of info on how to make your own circuit boards but none on the program(s) used to accomplish this. I would really enjoy seeing you put a simple circuit together and see you on the computer end of things either here or on Patreon. Thanks for all you do and enjoy the rest of your weekend.
Another excellent (and kind) review of what might be a delicate situation. I chuckled when you said this radio's previous restorer had good intentions - flashing back to the old proverb "The road to hell is paved with good intentions". Always interesting content Mr. Carlson!
Very nice review of that rebuild. I agree, some things are fine, but other repairs, will need some expert help! I would very much enjoy the Mr Carlson touch applied to this radio. That case does look very nice. Finally YES, that AUTO fuse holder has got to go, there is a nice blank area on the right rear back panel that might accommodate a chassis mount holder! 73 de KK6PD!
To do perfection in restoration takes a lot of time, careful planning and technique. Most of my occasional customers go for a “repair” vs restoration Meaning make it safe, and operate at a satisfactory level. And of course, it fits their budget.
Hello Paul, Shango066 showed me something very clever. He took an old dynamic speaker with an open field coil and converted it to permanent magnet by placing neodymium magnets on it and it worked surprisingly good. A resistor was installed to take the place of passing the voltage
This was a very pleasant surprise to find this morning, as always. I'm not a football fan so at least I got to watch at least one good thing that's not about that. (Also let's hope Taylor Swift never gets _too_ into vintage electronics restoration.)
@@MrCarlsonsLab La phrase qui tue! Another one is "Don't go crazy about it". Of course I go crazy about things! It's not like I can take apart a 1950's radio or a laptop, and then poke around just for fun. You don't half-solder or half-replace components :D
Proving I watch Mr. C's videos: If Paul did an alignment on that radio, I would bet he would also find the adjustable inductors had been "screwdrivered" -- that is, adjusted to a point where they are actually impeding the radio's ability to receive. New, polarized line cord, a proper fuse holder, a hot solder reflow to those joints, and a proper alignment would do this radio a lot of good in an hour's worth of work. Certainly not up to Paul Carlson Standard, especially with the hodge-podge of parts flapping in the breeze, but I bet it would still turn out better than most people's restorations.
I find it interesting how those american radios often look quite luxurious on the outside, sometimes have many bands but very often go down to the AA5 or maybe AA6 design, at times with an added mains transformer. Nothing wrong with that on itself, but with european radios the fancy top-of-the line models typically came with technical gimmicks, too. Like tuned RF preamplfiers, syncronous detectors, noise blankers, push pull finals, biamping, AFC, motorized station scan .. whatever.
I really enjoy your videos but have a question. Can I use a current limited variac setup on an old solid state or logic controlled piece of equipment that has been sitting for years?
Yes, Mr CarlsonI would agree 100% with your assessment of the previous restoration of this fine looking radio. Radio looks like an amateur worked on it, who knew just enough to get it fixed and working.
I am 80 yrs. old now, but still not old enough to remember all these beautiful classic radios...But, beautiful and nostalgic as they may be, they are still old and outdated in all respects. Being the strange character that I am, I have never liked anything old...no old cars, no old houses, and no old women (until I married one)! But, for the old radios, none of them will 'hold a candle' to any of the newer radios available in any respect to include beauty and performance. So if one wants nostalgia over quality, then old is great...but, otherwise, new is greater...much greater, at least until the next big EMP arrives. I still enjoy watching Dr. Carlson's restorations but every time I have access to one of those old tyme radios and play with them I find that the 'cultural' shock between old and new remains tremendous...old: big, heavy, not portable, few if any lighting options, no computer interfacing, no VFO, BFO, no SSB, seldom stereo or FM, no options, no this and no that with the list seemingly infinitum. Oh well...this is just me with one foot in the grave with no radios of any kind there! Wishing you all well...meet you all 'on the other side'.
Respect for your forward thinking, but in a world of growing quantity and thoughts one might be dedicated to throwing breadcrumbs to enlighten the path we all came from.
Say, what??? My comment is simply my personal opinion...so, I really don't know what you are meaning with your comment but this I can say...lighten up...I am not criticizing anyone...just my preference...no old cars, old houses or old radios...smile...notice that I don't include old women, anymore.@@erikdenhouter
Any fuse holder rated for mains power will have the rating on it, if it doesn’t, it’s not rated for more than 24 volts or so. With the number of flying splices in there it looks more like an airport than a radio.
Were the older radios with power transformers and bigger tubes better than the AA5s? More sensitive, safer, more efficient? Were there any radios made during the 50s, 60s with transformers? I'm looking for a sensitive AM tube radio on eBay just to have around and listen to. Obviously I'm just now learning. Any suggestions on models or particular websites?
I know these fuse holders well. I have a pack of ten lying next to me. I ordered them from Aliexpress some time ago. You can use them well for low voltage at low currents. Not at all for mains voltage, and certainly not for higher currents. The stranded wire fixed to the holder only looks thick. The cross-section is no larger than approx. 0.5qmm (AWG20), rather less. The rest is just insulation.
I still have a bit of 30's - 50's era cloth and rubberized wire I had yanked from old tv and stereo consoles as well as some tubes,pots and odd small boards and components. Thinking back I should had saved more odds and ends like knobs,light,s buttons,etc.... I was able too wire my electric guitar with authentic 50's wiring including era correct wire.
Sure wish can get you to remove the selenium rectifiers in my tube tuner and convert to diodes. My amp has already had it done by previous tech. I know how to wire it up but don't know what to do if needs drop voltage resistor
Fuseholder looks automotive, they are usually supplied with a long loop of red wire which you cut and join, needs replacing, and like you said, polarised plug
"J" hooks. Today's components are often smaller and tend to have much shorter leads than those of yesteryear. In that case a "J" hook is the cleanest extension. Of course heat shrink must be used to cover the "mess". But I agree that a post is the best option when you can cleanly install it.
I was a bit surprised to see the 1/4"x20 bolts (7/16" head) holding the chassis - it seemed like the threaded inserts were original. When did Canada convert to metric, and was there a period of crossover?
Ok, Like the forensics you do. Just watched the Luxman video. With regard to this Restauration teardown I would largely agree. To use automotive parts is grrrr. If the Radio didn't have a fuse originally, I would have inserted it into the mains lead ( don't know if this is allowed in your country) With regard to the solder joints, I would try to do it the same way as it was done originally, and not use my personal preference. The connections to the chassis look terrible but they are functional. Finally I think the cardboard under the chassis was inserted due to the missing third fixation screw: Two srews left the chassis wobbling, this was damped by the cardboard 🙂. May be the previous restorator had to heavily improvise 😞
Interesting to see from the view point of mistakes and traps amateur restorers can fall into. I would make these mistakes, so a good training video for me and I'm sure, many others.
I hope we get to see your restoration on TH-cam. I like the open clip fuse holders that mount with a recessed hole centered under the fuse, as they look like something that would have been used back in the day. The automotive fuse holder is just ugly, but it's functionality at 120 volts (even though not certified) is probably ok...just really not the right part though. I would rather wait a week for the right parts than series capacitors and resistors to get the correct value. Miss having a real electronics store in town, but radio and television repair is just a hobby now...
Another fabulous restoration analysis, very enjoyable to watch. I don't know if you have in one of your videos (or perhaps you prefer not to discuss) but I am curious as to the costs associated with a restoration to the standards you set. Specifically when finding an antique radio which may cosmetically look wonderful, yet having unknows internals, or the seller says it doesn't work... with no knowledge of what it takes to return the radio to functioning safely component/time/cost... would it be best to "pass" and simply find a quality restored piece "ready" to go? A garage sale, antique store, online auction site, or perhaps a family raido that grandpa used to own.. how does one know whether or not to invest in a restoration? Thanks
Don't know about US mains sockets but UK ones generally have switches on them. And if I'm not using something - new, old, whatever - it gets switched off with this switch.
Prewired moulded leads and plugs yes. But, you still can't ignore the DIY factor, those blue(N) and brown(L) wires have to go in the plug the right way round Or red (for dead) and black in old kit. Oh and new plugs come with a 13A fuse which people fail to change to match the device load. Surprised the manufacturers haven't cut their costs by ditching the fuse and so force the consumer to buy them seperately.
I would also like to comment on Shango066's mentioning DO NOT leave vintage electronics plugged in permanently. He claims that the switches can carbon track and cause a fire. I took his advice and not trust the power switches in my 70+ year old equipment and use a power strip. I seems like a good idea. Beautiful looking radio by the way! I just love the wood grain and black trim. I've got a Silvertone 701 to restore (with a tuning eye) and a Stewart Warner R1915D with the vibrator power supply. Can't wait! And yeah, some people aren't too great with a slobbering iron.
I love your channel, I watch it all the time, I even watch some videos 2 or 3 times. Haha. When I was a kid of about 10 years old, I worked part time in a radio/ appliance repair shop. I was actually pretty good at it. It when I ran into problems, the boss used to bail me out. To fix broken coils on a toaster, we had a powder that we mixed with water and put it on the break. When we turned the toasted on, it welded itself back together. Do you have any idea what that material is? I’d like to get some so I can fix an old 1950’s Sunbeam toaster that looks like new. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks much.
I agree this has not been a professional restoration but beside using a too low powered soldering iron and the fuse issues I’d still give it a mild thumbs up. The job does seem to have a bit of Eastern European style over it though. Maybe it was repaired by some fifth columnist. Or somebody from Italian descent? I’ve seen many an Italian organ with such colored sweets parts. 😁
I search in internet and I wonder wats is the most powerful vacuum tube and wats is the most complex vacuum tube it will be nice to konw ant thanks for the info
If you are repairing/restoring an old radio, and just cannot find a replacement eye tube, will the absence of an eye tube affect the overall performance of the radio ?
I have no problem with J hooked joints . It's fast & also the choice of tech's with failing eyes . As for capacitors use what you have , but test first . After that it works or it doesn't ! Before seeing a unit my old boss always asked “ Repair time ? ” I normally answered about yea high ! His reply was always the same “ You've got 20 minutes ” . You'd better be putting the screws in at the 20 minutes mark . No repair shop will ever do repairs like Mr C . Nether the shop or customer could afford it !
Another great video Paul, i agree with you on every point, but i would just like to add a few things, a little bit in the defence of the person who did this resto;; #1 from what i've seen on some of the few radios i've restored so far, it was common practice to have a bunch of ''Flying'' resistors very roughly soldered together just floating beneath the components (on top when chassis is upside down). I've completely restored an 1937 RCA Victor 87-K and the resistor array arrangement was scary to look at. So much so i first though it had been done by a DIYer, but since i had 2 chassis of the same radio i was shocked to see they were both identical and it was done this was from factory. #2 it would be nice to be able to unsolder every single old wire and replace them with new ones but from my experience every single time i tried unsoldering a wire from a tube socket, the amount of heat required to melt old solder where there was a huge amount of it used to connect 2 or 3 wires on the same tab, always damaged the phenolic base often time doing more harm than good (even with a solder pump). This is most likely the reason why most guys running radio restoration channels go through great lengths showing us how to do J or pig tail connections, let alone the difficulty to access some of the parts on a finished radio. #3 finding correct replacement components i find is always a challenge, heck axials are next to impossible to find and the values used back in the day are often not manufactured any more. Working on a 1989 SCS power amp this week-end i struggled just trying to find a few 8𝜇𝚏 100v axial caps, it was either settling for 250v radials or 8.2 𝜇𝚏 axials at 250 v again and at 23$ a piece mind you. My point is you very often have to compromise when replacing components and put in what you can find, at least here in Canada. Lastly about the melted buttons and knobs, in this case they all seem to have been painted and/or varnished (most likely oil based products), i'd bet money this is what deformed the plastic, not time or regular or even abusive usage of them. Just my 2₵. Thank's for the very interesting video 🙂
![Delco High Performance Radio Receiver! [Repair]](/img/n.gif)
To learn electronics in a very different and effective way, and gain access to Mr Carlson's personal designs and inventions, visit the Mr Carlson's Lab Patreon page here: www.patreon.com/MrCarlsonsLab
Regarding J-hooking, I used to try and completely remove the components and resolder to the original connections, but you end up breaking stuff like tube socket terminals, terminal strips and the other component leads which are attached to the terminal you are trying to desolder. Many times, the tech who originally built the set has really taken two or more components and twisted the leads together and stuck them on one terminal with that wrapped tightly or sometimes they add them separately and twist in different directions on the terminal. Say you are trying to change a coupling cap and because of the way this was originally done, you break the tube socket terminal which has happened more than once to me especially if they are those bottom mounted sockets that have the laminated layers of phenolic sandwiching the metal pins. Now you have to take everything off and make a diagram, drill out the rivets which end up spinning, so it is damn near impossible. You end up with a mismatched socket, if you even have one on hand that fits the chassis hole and rivet holes and half the time you end up breaking more component leads so one or more may be short now, so you have to go back into the circuit further desoldering components that worked fine. Then what if you don't have the correct value resistor in the wattage you need. There are just a hundred problems you can cause completely taking out components. Or you could J-hook in the coupling cap and be done in literally one minute and it functions perfectly. After this happened to me a few times, I started j hooking. I feel it is more valuable to preserve the originality of the equipment instead of making a big mess of things. This saves so much money and time and works just fine.
The modern components are dwarfed by the oem ones and don't always fit in the same location. The leads either need to be extended or the circuit modified for the placement of components. I try to avoid having to solder to the rf or if coils to prevent melting them inside the cans. @@skullheadwater9839
Here, here!!
I have a Lab series Tectonics with pluggable modules! Would you like it for free? You may have to repair old caps? Let me know? Love your channel been a bench tech sense 1970
Looks like Ray Charles radio repair?
Might bear in mind this is graduate level restoration here. Mr. Carlson sets high standards. Beginners or neophytes should not be discouraged, always put forth your best effort and strive to always improve. Don't be discouraged, don't expect perfection as you are learning.
I agree. Mr. Carlson chose his words carefully as to not discourage others from performing restorations. Every beginner makes errors and after the likely hundreds of various repairs and restorations, you will become a skilled artisan like Mr. Carlson. Trouble shooting: over time, with experience, is an art as well. Reading schematics will become second nature. One safety tip I always follow is my left hand is literally in my pocket or touching my lap when measuring gear with HV power inside.
Oh fur sure, and these videos are really 'expert level tips' and take many years of experience to just 'see' right away
I have high standards when repairing TV's ect at work, none of mine come back, it can't be said about some other engineers in the workshop unfortunately, some chase the money, personally I chase my pride of work, money wise I catch up when they have re-repairs to do which they don't get paid for, So I like to see Paul's standards
@@tseckwr3783 I stopped doing that at 50 years old after never getting shocked because of putting my hand where it didn't belong. It is said Tesla used to do that, so it is a good idea.😁
@@paul-c7541 You can't make money on returns.
"He meant well", how heartwarmingly gracious of you.
🤣🤣🤣
Probably meaning they made an effort to do the job right, but had the wrong tools and knowledge. Unlike a 'Genius' Bar or Samsung Warranty Support.
"There's never enough time to do it right but there is always time to do it over." I think Mac from Mac's Radio Service Shop once said that. Google it.
I wouldn't have been so gracious personally
We know! 😁@@paul-c7541
Every hobbyist greatest fear. Thier work falling into the hands of an absolute authority in whatever field like Mr Carlson lol
It's what I think about when I repair one of these. "what if someone like Mr C ends up with this thing". 😅
Mr Carlson is one of those Platinum standard engineers, a man of excellence and the best of the best in his field. I would always trust his judgment on these things and if you've seen enough of his in depth restorations, you would understand why.
That's why I support him on Patreon. You should also.
Honestly, his complaints about the tools and components used in this restoration makes me feel like I should start saving the money I'm giving him on patreon and save up for better equipment...@@tedmoss
Even amateurs like me could spot the problems that were found. Very substandard work.
I'm grateful that when I'm gone, I'll rest easier knowing that none of my radios are likely to end up on Mr. Carlson's bench.
Can you imagine the existential crisis a tech would have to see their own work get deemed as inadequate in one of Mr. Carlson's videos?
I would view it as a great learning opportunity. Few things will help you improve faster than being honestly judged by a master of the craft.
The Matsushita/Panasonic electrolytics are definitely counterfeit, Panasonic uses a "T" shape cap vent mark and these have a cross shape. I've bought so many legit Panny caps I just noticed it immediately. And if those are counterfeit, high likelyhood that the other poly type caps etc are as well
Thank you for your videos. New to antique radios and I'm learning so much from you.
Paul is a professional, never takes shortcuts that would cause harm.
Of all the electronics channels on you tube you sir are the only one I would trust with my life as your commitment to perfection is way beyond all others your knowledge astounds me and I am in constant awe of your flawless application
Kerry Wong just now posted about a dangerous power cord with steel wire. Can't be too careful especially with the new stuff!
He has single handedly revolutionized the hobby for me.
Mr. Carlson does not go beyond reason though.
That fuse holder definitely looks like the DIY automotive stuff we have over here in Europe.
I think the give away was NO rating on it or safety symbols
Great video. So nice of you to be so understanding of the restorer. That line cable soldering scared me a bit.
Nice looking radio. I enjoy the dials on these old sets with multiple bands.
I'm a 'Doctor of engineering' But this is "Professor Carlson's Lab'. Always good, informative and educational. Thank you Professor Carlson.
👍
@@robinbrowne5419 👍👌
I have been told by my engineer friends (my twin brother is an electrical engineer), that I am a better engineer than any they have run across, it must be that Scottish blood.
Hi Mr. Carlson, Been enjoying your videos for years, You have a wealth of knowledge, really know your stuff. I do repairs and restorations myself as a hobby, restorations are only as good as what the customer is willing to pay. Other than maybe a polarized plug, I think this restoration is somewhat acceptable, I don't see anything that's going to breakdown anytime soon. I'm very meticulous myself but in order to do a proper full restoration, it would need to be stripped down to the bare bones, therefore tripling or more the price. "Been there, done that".
This radio is a beautiful candidate for your old time looking digital frequency counter.
Yup 👍
There some nice very compact frequency counter modules sold on eBay, that can be pre programmed (preset) to the local oscillator of a receiver.
I really do enjoy watching your channel, even though I know nothing about electronics. It's awesome to see your attention to detail, just like the folks at the factory, way back when people actually took pride in their work in producing great quality products that will last. A far cry from today's "throw-away" society. Keep up the great videos! Thank you
True, but the throwaway society did not come about for no reason, there were not enough people to do the work, I used to try. The solution was to make everything so cheap that you could throw it away and get a newer model. This idea was a continuation of the idea of mass production to make things afforabile. Tesla has given me a problem with that though because their cars are so good, I don't want to trade it in.
This handsome radio received a very good checkup. I'm glad the owner put it in the right hands. Excellent instructive video. Thanks
Very nice radio, I hope it gets re-restored. Thanks for another good video.
Your skills and knowledge keeps impressing me mr. Carlson. You are really good! 🤩
I wonder if these should be restored. They are great to look at as is but the sound of am is not going to be great for many of these radios.
What a beautifully designed radio !
I would give the previous restoration a thumbs-up for at least adding a fuse, of the correct value. Most don't bother adding a fuse at all.
Certainly the soldering work and replacement component choices might be dubious, but it is all protected by that 1A fuse.
Thanks Paul.. very interesting as always...a good old hot iron was definitely needed for those chassis connections...
Thanks Carlson always enjoy your work.
My pleasure!
Marrawanna
Greetings Paul,
I have enjoyed and gleaned much from your Mr. Carlson’s labs over the past few years, although house renovations have interrupted my viewing in the last several months.
In the mid 70’s I purchased a Sherwood S-7100 Stereo receiver and Empire speakers. I have enjoyed the fine sounds these provide. However, recently when I turned the S-7100 on, I had no audio. The S-7100 receiver lights up the dial and the tuning meter appears to indicate when a station (AM or FM) is present. I checked speaker wiring and the power and speaker fuses, they appear okay. When stereo ear buds are plugged into the front panel a very mild sync buzz is heard.
I suspect electrolytic capacitors may have failed but my knowledge and skill set, at age 82, are not sufficient to attempt this repair.
Can you recommend a repair shop in Brantford, Ontario, Canada.
Respectfully, thanking you in advance,
Paul W. Aitchison
Again, only the best electronic repair videos come from your channel. Considering the knobs; I try to find at least one good knob (from any source) and make a silicone mold of it. Then I color an acrylic, two part polymer, pour and cure all the knobs that are needed. With this approach one gets perfect, beautiful knobs, that look antique, are very strong, and will last another 100 years. Also, the silicone molds can be used on other electronic projects!!
Thanks, Paul 👍
Thank you for the videos, you are a walking encyclopedia good Sir!
Can't wait for the restoration of this great radio, Paul!
Good video, liked the analysis and explanation.
Hope the owner agrees to you restoring it, it’s a beautiful radio and well worth it.
Good looking radio that maybe should be made safe for daily listening.
I think it would be a nice future project...
Thanks for sharing your expertise, Mr Carlson, and see you next time.
Attention to details would be the caption for this project. Like you said in the video, the restorer meant well, but you wouldn't use it. I really like how you explain things, Paul and also enjoy your professional assessments. Since I started watching you back in 2018, I worked to get my General Ham Radio license and have been working on getting my shack built. Still have my IC-7300 still in the box because I was supposed to have a 30' antenna tower in my back yard but my contractor didn't get around to me before the season ended, so will be doing that first thing thsi spring. I did buy an IC-705 with a Chameleon MPAS 2.0 portable antenna and have been enjoying radio again. I want to get back into CW because that's all I could use when I hac my novice licenso 40 plus years ago. Anyhow, love your posts and the inspiration that comes from thiem.
It is a nice looking set that, and with your touch it will keep its owner proud and assured. The other thing I don't like about that fuse holder is it was the wrong way round. You were able to plug the fuse into the end connected to the incoming live (?) line with your fingers on the other end of the fuse. The live feed should go to the shrouded end. You then plug the new fuse into the open dead equipment side first and then into the live shrouded end. just in case you have forgotten to unplug first. People often wire panel fuse holders the wrong way too.
I think Mr. Carlson has a point re: the fuse holder and the quality of the solder connections, but I would like to point out that mix-matched components is not in itself a bad thing and while J-hooks is not how he prefers to do his work, I see no safety problem with J hooks when done correctly (i.e. soldered with sufficient heat, routed in responsible ways, long sections of leads covered with spaghetti when needed etc.). A lot of hobbyists out there use whatever left over parts they have on hand before placing parts orders and something like modern film caps & modern resistors are not going to go bad sitting on a shelf for 2-5 years while waiting for the next project to use them up. A lot of the gripes of "where the restorer could have done better" like the eye tube orientation, or the dirty pushbuttons is not going to determine how safe the set is to leave plugged in. The fuse holder is absolutely a problem, as is any cold solder joints (remember: glowing faults can't be stopped by fuses, nor even AFCIs), but the rest is easily better than some of the "serviced" or "restored" stuff that shows up at hamfests & swapmeets. Not able to see the labels on the caps in the pictures, but I know some of the cheaper modern caps out there have very faint labeling and I have seen some with short-hand methods of denoting voltage ratings instead of spelling out "400V" or "630V" like the top-shelf mainbrand companies use. I forget the maker, but there was a Hong Kong company of polypropylene film caps that used a letter to denote the voltage rating (400v was one letter, 630v was marked "J" I think, I don't remember the specifics because its not a brand I use). Its plausible in my opinion that the person who did the work did use properly rated caps, but then its also plausible that they were ripped off by some fly by night chinese seller on wish or something like that. Counterfeit electrolytics for example have been a big problem for years.
Awesome radio and diagnosis Professor Carlson !!
Great video to some of the dos and don'ts and why things should be done. love you channel the best
Beautiful video as usual Mr. C!
Many thanks!
Wonderful video thanks Paul :-)
You're very welcome!
Great work as always.
A pleasant surprise to see a new video from you! Good morning first of all. I have an idea for a video if you're open to it. I would love to see your take on circuit design computer programs. You have a ton of info on how to make your own circuit boards but none on the program(s) used to accomplish this. I would really enjoy seeing you put a simple circuit together and see you on the computer end of things either here or on Patreon. Thanks for all you do and enjoy the rest of your weekend.
Man Paul, you could tell it was hard to say (sub par)...you're a good guy ! If the WHOLE WORLD could just TAKE this kind of honesty !
GREAT VIDEO !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Thanks!!
Another excellent (and kind) review of what might be a delicate situation. I chuckled when you said this radio's previous restorer had good intentions - flashing back to the old proverb "The road to hell is paved with good intentions". Always interesting content Mr. Carlson!
Very nice Mr Carl's as usual 👌
Very nice review of that rebuild. I agree, some things are fine, but other repairs, will need some expert help! I would very much enjoy the Mr Carlson touch applied to this radio. That case does look very nice. Finally YES, that AUTO fuse holder has got to go, there is a nice blank area on the right rear back panel that might accommodate a chassis mount holder! 73 de KK6PD!
To do perfection in restoration takes a lot of time, careful planning and technique. Most of my occasional customers go for a “repair” vs restoration Meaning make it safe, and operate at a satisfactory level. And of course, it fits their budget.
Hello Paul,
Shango066 showed me something very clever. He took an old dynamic speaker with an open field coil and converted it to permanent magnet by placing neodymium magnets on it and it worked surprisingly good. A resistor was installed to take the place of passing the voltage
I have done that as well, it does work surprisingly good for a patch.
Awesome as Always... Really enjoyed this one Great explanation, Pleasure to watch and Learn.
Great video sir
This was a very pleasant surprise to find this morning, as always. I'm not a football fan so at least I got to watch at least one good thing that's not about that. (Also let's hope Taylor Swift never gets _too_ into vintage electronics restoration.)
Autopsy and forensics content always wins my vote
That is a beautiful radio, I hope it gets the proper restoration it deserves.
Always empressed
Great vid. Would love to see it re-restored to learn how you like to do wiring and soldering for those components with floating leads and j-hooks.
Seeing you take the chassis out made me think of how many I have done, way to many to count over 70 years.😁😁
Dont be picky, it is a Good repair for midrage cost.
"Dont be picky" are not words that work in my world.
@@MrCarlsonsLab La phrase qui tue! Another one is "Don't go crazy about it". Of course I go crazy about things! It's not like I can take apart a 1950's radio or a laptop, and then poke around just for fun. You don't half-solder or half-replace components :D
Proving I watch Mr. C's videos: If Paul did an alignment on that radio, I would bet he would also find the adjustable inductors had been "screwdrivered" -- that is, adjusted to a point where they are actually impeding the radio's ability to receive. New, polarized line cord, a proper fuse holder, a hot solder reflow to those joints, and a proper alignment would do this radio a lot of good in an hour's worth of work. Certainly not up to Paul Carlson Standard, especially with the hodge-podge of parts flapping in the breeze, but I bet it would still turn out better than most people's restorations.
I find it interesting how those american radios often look quite luxurious on the outside, sometimes have many bands but very often go down to the AA5 or maybe AA6 design, at times with an added mains transformer. Nothing wrong with that on itself, but with european radios the fancy top-of-the line models typically came with technical gimmicks, too. Like tuned RF preamplfiers, syncronous detectors, noise blankers, push pull finals, biamping, AFC, motorized station scan .. whatever.
That is a huge honkin transformer was that one of those sets designed to run on 25 and 60hz?
You are correct!
I really enjoy your videos but have a question. Can I use a current limited variac setup on an old solid state or logic controlled piece of equipment that has been sitting for years?
Nice engineering you are awesome ❤️ 😊😊
Yes, Mr CarlsonI would agree 100% with your assessment of the previous restoration of this fine looking radio. Radio looks like an amateur worked on it, who knew just enough to get it fixed and working.
Great video,thanks for bringing us along, and pointing out the issues of a supposedly restored unit,yea,its like a car,do it back with good parts
Paul, I think this radio deserves the "Carlson treatment" and I sure hope it gets it! 73 de Larry, K3LT
I am 80 yrs. old now, but still not old enough to remember all these beautiful classic radios...But, beautiful and nostalgic as they may be, they are still old and outdated in all respects. Being the strange character that I am, I have never liked anything old...no old cars, no old houses, and no old women (until I married one)! But, for the old radios, none of them will 'hold a candle' to any of the newer radios available in any respect to include beauty and performance. So if one wants nostalgia over quality, then old is great...but, otherwise, new is greater...much greater, at least until the next big EMP arrives. I still enjoy watching Dr. Carlson's restorations but every time I have access to one of those old tyme radios and play with them I find that the 'cultural' shock between old and new remains tremendous...old: big, heavy, not portable, few if any lighting options, no computer interfacing, no VFO, BFO, no SSB, seldom stereo or FM, no options, no this and no that with the list seemingly infinitum. Oh well...this is just me with one foot in the grave with no radios of any kind there! Wishing you all well...meet you all 'on the other side'.
Awesome, honest and cool......thats you !
Respect for your forward thinking, but in a world of growing quantity and thoughts one might be dedicated to throwing breadcrumbs to enlighten the path we all came from.
Say, what??? My comment is simply my personal opinion...so, I really don't know what you are meaning with your comment but this I can say...lighten up...I am not criticizing anyone...just my preference...no old cars, old houses or old radios...smile...notice that I don't include old women, anymore.@@erikdenhouter
'Soon' to be even cooler, if you know what I mean...@@andymouse
:)@@danleep1185
Any fuse holder rated for mains power will have the rating on it, if it doesn’t, it’s not rated for more than 24 volts or so. With the number of flying splices in there it looks more like an airport than a radio.
Yes Paul, I hope you do get the chance to restore the electronics of this nice looking old radio. All the best from Gene in Tennessee.
Were the older radios with power transformers and bigger tubes better than the AA5s? More sensitive, safer, more efficient?
Were there any radios made during the 50s, 60s with transformers?
I'm looking for a sensitive AM tube radio on eBay just to have around and listen to.
Obviously I'm just now learning. Any suggestions on models or particular websites?
I know these fuse holders well. I have a pack of ten lying next to me. I ordered them from Aliexpress some time ago. You can use them well for low voltage at low currents.
Not at all for mains voltage, and certainly not for higher currents.
The stranded wire fixed to the holder only looks thick. The cross-section is no larger than approx. 0.5qmm (AWG20), rather less. The rest is just insulation.
Do your thing, Paul
Paul, if you find an oddball screw or bolt do you replace it with common modern type for future ease of removal?
Usually, yes.
I still have a bit of 30's - 50's era cloth and rubberized wire I had yanked from old tv and stereo consoles as well as some tubes,pots and odd small boards and components. Thinking back I should had saved more odds and ends like knobs,light,s buttons,etc.... I was able too wire my electric guitar with authentic 50's wiring including era correct wire.
Sure wish can get you to remove the selenium rectifiers in my tube tuner and convert to diodes. My amp has already had it done by previous tech. I know how to wire it up but don't know what to do if needs drop voltage resistor
Fuseholder looks automotive, they are usually supplied with a long loop of red wire which you cut and join, needs replacing, and like you said, polarised plug
"J" hooks. Today's components are often smaller and tend to have much shorter leads than those of yesteryear. In that case a "J" hook is the cleanest extension. Of course heat shrink must be used to cover the "mess". But I agree that a post is the best option when you can cleanly install it.
I was a bit surprised to see the 1/4"x20 bolts (7/16" head) holding the chassis - it seemed like the threaded inserts were original. When did Canada convert to metric, and was there a period of crossover?
Ok, Like the forensics you do. Just watched the Luxman video. With regard to this Restauration teardown I would largely agree. To use automotive parts is grrrr. If the Radio didn't have a fuse originally, I would have inserted it into the mains lead ( don't know if this is allowed in your country) With regard to the solder joints, I would try to do it the same way as it was done originally, and not use my personal preference. The connections to the chassis look terrible but they are functional.
Finally I think the cardboard under the chassis was inserted due to the missing third fixation screw: Two srews left the chassis wobbling, this was damped by the cardboard 🙂. May be the previous restorator had to heavily improvise 😞
Interesting to see from the view point of mistakes and traps amateur restorers can fall into. I would make these mistakes, so a good training video for me and I'm sure, many others.
I liked this style of video ❤❤
Do Capacitors require a High Voltage before they function Properly? Are Low Voltage Capacitors available?
I hope we get to see your restoration on TH-cam. I like the open clip fuse holders that mount with a recessed hole centered under the fuse, as they look like something that would have been used back in the day. The automotive fuse holder is just ugly, but it's functionality at 120 volts (even though not certified) is probably ok...just really not the right part though. I would rather wait a week for the right parts than series capacitors and resistors to get the correct value. Miss having a real electronics store in town, but radio and television repair is just a hobby now...
Another fabulous restoration analysis, very enjoyable to watch. I don't know if you have in one of your videos (or perhaps you prefer not to discuss) but I am curious as to the costs associated with a restoration to the standards you set. Specifically when finding an antique radio which may cosmetically look wonderful, yet having unknows internals, or the seller says it doesn't work... with no knowledge of what it takes to return the radio to functioning safely component/time/cost... would it be best to "pass" and simply find a quality restored piece "ready" to go? A garage sale, antique store, online auction site, or perhaps a family raido that grandpa used to own.. how does one know whether or not to invest in a restoration? Thanks
18:25 - Is that a *paper* cap to the left of the replaced mica capacitor?
If we're looking at the same thing i think that's an RF coil.
Don't know about US mains sockets but UK ones generally have switches on them. And if I'm not using something - new, old, whatever - it gets switched off with this switch.
Good idea 👍
Also our plugs can only be inserted one way and they have a fuse in the plug itself.
Prewired moulded leads and plugs yes. But, you still can't ignore the DIY factor, those blue(N) and brown(L) wires have to go in the plug the right way round Or red (for dead) and black in old kit. Oh and new plugs come with a 13A fuse which people fail to change to match the device load. Surprised the manufacturers haven't cut their costs by ditching the fuse and so force the consumer to buy them seperately.
I would also like to comment on Shango066's mentioning DO NOT leave vintage electronics plugged in permanently. He claims that the switches can carbon track and cause a fire. I took his advice and not trust the power switches in my 70+ year old equipment and use a power strip. I seems like a good idea. Beautiful looking radio by the way! I just love the wood grain and black trim. I've got a Silvertone 701 to restore (with a tuning eye) and a Stewart Warner R1915D with the vibrator power supply. Can't wait! And yeah, some people aren't too great with a slobbering iron.
I love your channel, I watch it all the time, I even watch some videos 2 or 3 times. Haha. When I was a kid of about 10 years old, I worked part time in a radio/ appliance repair shop. I was actually pretty good at it. It when I ran into problems, the boss used to bail me out. To fix broken coils on a toaster, we had a powder that we mixed with water and put it on the break. When we turned the toasted on, it welded itself back together. Do you have any idea what that material is? I’d like to get some so I can fix an old 1950’s Sunbeam toaster that looks like new. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks much.
That is a neat radio, I’m actually curious of how you would clean that tuning mechanism?
With an assortment of high falutin' chemicals known to the state of California to cause cancer.
I agree this has not been a professional restoration but beside using a too low powered soldering iron and the fuse issues I’d still give it a mild thumbs up. The job does seem to have a bit of Eastern European style over it though. Maybe it was repaired by some fifth columnist. Or somebody from Italian descent? I’ve seen many an Italian organ with such colored sweets parts. 😁
Hi Mr Carlson , going to do some work on my dads 1953 pye radio . can you say what powers the two dial lamps please .
I enjoyed watching your inspection and analysis, and I would enjoy a video of a restoration, but I realize that would be very time-consuming.
Thank you.
Nice video!
I search in internet and I wonder wats is the most powerful vacuum tube and wats is the most complex vacuum tube it will be nice to konw ant thanks for the info
Hello.
What type of capacitors, You replace wax capacitors, with ?
If you are repairing/restoring an old radio, and just cannot find a replacement eye tube, will the absence of an eye tube affect the overall performance of the radio ?
I don't think a missing eye will have any impact on the radio's functionality.
I have no problem with J hooked joints .
It's fast & also the choice of tech's with failing eyes .
As for capacitors use what you have , but test first .
After that it works or it doesn't !
Before seeing a unit my old boss always asked “ Repair time ? ”
I normally answered about yea high !
His reply was always the same “ You've got 20 minutes ” .
You'd better be putting the screws in at the 20 minutes mark .
No repair shop will ever do repairs like Mr C .
Nether the shop or customer could afford it !
I love you dude!
Paul, what is the best way to have you look at 2 radios that have stumped the local experts - a Westinghouse WR-311 and a Truetone D696?
Another great video Paul, i agree with you on every point, but i would just like to add a few things, a little bit in the defence of the person who did this resto;; #1 from what i've seen on some of the few radios i've restored so far, it was common practice to have a bunch of ''Flying'' resistors very roughly soldered together just floating beneath the components (on top when chassis is upside down). I've completely restored an 1937 RCA Victor 87-K and the resistor array arrangement was scary to look at. So much so i first though it had been done by a DIYer, but since i had 2 chassis of the same radio i was shocked to see they were both identical and it was done this was from factory. #2 it would be nice to be able to unsolder every single old wire and replace them with new ones but from my experience every single time i tried unsoldering a wire from a tube socket, the amount of heat required to melt old solder where there was a huge amount of it used to connect 2 or 3 wires on the same tab, always damaged the phenolic base often time doing more harm than good (even with a solder pump). This is most likely the reason why most guys running radio restoration channels go through great lengths showing us how to do J or pig tail connections, let alone the difficulty to access some of the parts on a finished radio. #3 finding correct replacement components i find is always a challenge, heck axials are next to impossible to find and the values used back in the day are often not manufactured any more. Working on a 1989 SCS power amp this week-end i struggled just trying to find a few 8𝜇𝚏 100v axial caps, it was either settling for 250v radials or 8.2 𝜇𝚏 axials at 250 v again and at 23$ a piece mind you. My point is you very often have to compromise when replacing components and put in what you can find, at least here in Canada. Lastly about the melted buttons and knobs, in this case they all seem to have been painted and/or varnished (most likely oil based products), i'd bet money this is what deformed the plastic, not time or regular or even abusive usage of them. Just my 2₵. Thank's for the very interesting video 🙂
3d print new knobs? if possible?