I am working through 1000 pieces of Lake City .308 machine gun fired brass that I got from GI Brass in 2009. It needs a lot work. Which is why it has been in the original box for 11 years. CoVid lockdown is good for something, I guess. After running it through the vibratory case cleaner I lubed, full length sized and deprimed. Next was swaging out the mil-crimp, but ran into a problem with burrs on the inside of the primer flash hole that prevented proper seating on the Super Swage 600 mandrel. I had to take the extra step of running a flash hole reamer on all 1000 cases before I could swage them. After swaging they all got pocket cleaned to get rid of any shavings, ten I neck turned to 0.015 wall thickness, and now they are all getting length trimmed to 2.005, and then deburred. Like I say, it is a lot of work, but I can truly say, “What ammo shortage?” I like the SS 600; I mounted mine on a wood block that clamps in a woodworking vise on my bench. It is quick, precise, and takes minimal effort. I previously did 2,000 pieces of LC 69 .30-06 pulled down cases. When I get around to I have about 10K .223 mil-crimp cases I picked up at ranges that nobody else thought were worth messing with. As my mom always said, waste not, want not.”
I use the rcbs case deburring tool to cut the crimps out of my 223 cases. The the chuck on my drill press can grip tail on the end of the deburring tool. This makes quick work of cutting out the crimp and ive never had an issue because of it. The dillon super swage looks like a great tool.
Part of the reason why you had to do some Modification to the Dillon tool is because it's not meant to be flat on a bench. It is designed to be mounted vertical.
Buy once cry once. If you're doing serious loading on a Dillon progressive, you'll likely wind up with the Dillon Swager, maybe a couple of them. Inline Fabrication Fabrication makes some neat, caliber specific centering blocks for the 600 Super Swager. Drill down on that product and you'll find a couple of videos on automating it. I use the Super 600 Auto Eject modification and highly recommend it. You can also find that video on Utoob. Put the brass on the rod, pull the handle, let loose and the brass flies into a bucket. Process as fast as you can load the rod. No expensive or time consuming modifications to the equipment. All you need is a board, a bucket, a nail, and a rubber band to get started. If you like it, you can upgrade to a spring to avoid replacing rubber bands every thousand rounds or so.
$35 for the RCBS Swager 2 vs $115 for the Dillon 600 so cost is major factor. The dillion is 3x as much as the RCBS. RCBS also makes a bench mount swager for about $90. Also the change over time between the RCBS and Dillion has the RCBS winning on that round. Another thing I like about the RCBS it's just one more thing I don't have to mount to my already crowed bench. Yes if you mount it on a quick release board that makes it easier. But the RCBS comes in a normal die box which stakes very easy right on top of all my other die sets. Nice video, straight and too the point. A good comparison of the two different types of swagers.
Great explanation but there is one major error. At 9:05 you explain that the smaller step down is for 9mm. This is wrong. There is a separate adapter for 9mm. Dillon part number 62168. If you use the tool and put a 9mm on the adapter you show, it is not long enough to bottom out on the case. It will only flare the case mouth out as the swager pushes against the case. The case to be swaged must fit all the way to the bottom of the backing rod.
The RCBS is good for someone that reloads mixed headstamps and only deals with a handful of crimped brass at a time. With the Dillon, and the shoestring mod, I can run through 1,000 batch of 5.56 in under an hour. If you're processing brass by the bucket, the speed is worth the cost.
When you describe the spring loaded table as you position the brass on the Dillon Super Swage, please note that there is a small allen screw on the right side that you can lock to hold the position of the “table” so that you can quickly position the brass to the correct height to swage.
they make different drill bits that work great. a small counter sink or reaming too also works faster, 45 degree angle. it wont go inside and widen the pocket and the angle helps seat the primer like a feed ramp.
JB I looked into that at the begining of my journey. I felt there are too many things that could go worng. Good and great ammo is made by using consistency. I feel these swagging tools accomplish that.
Nice video. Just bought the Dillon 600 and the Hornady swager system(for my lock-n-load). Planning on the Hornady for military 308 brass and Dillon for everything else. Your tool for cutting crimps is crude and has a mile of run out in it... Not here to poke fun of that but if I can suggest a zero flute countersink & deburring tool 90° I bet you will find it to be the perfect tool for the job.
Thanks for pointing out that one removes metal from the case head with the bevel cutter. The swager just bumps back the burr that keeps one from smoothly inserting a new primer in the pocket. Another easy improvement on the Dillon 600 is to make a Vee block to rest the case body on while swaging rather than the flat block that the unit comes with. The old block can be removed by screws in the bottom and a set screw on the side of the swager frame. The Vee block can be made of metal, plastic, or wood. The Vee block will provide side-to-side alignment of the primer pocket to the nib on the swager mandrel. If the primer pocket is not held on the center of the mandrel, the nib will take off the side of the primer pocket and ruin the case.
Cc Wynn drilled out tens of thousands of primer pockets with the RCBS military crimp removal tool it removes material from the brass case. I have never seen any of the primer pockets back out at all this assumption is unfounded because RCBS would not market a tool that removes material if it was a liability.
drill bit sized to the primer pocket isn't making the pocket loose. really the head isn't where you are going to have problems as your bolt face should be tight enough to hold the primer in place. if you have primer falling out you have other problems than a slight bevel at the end of the pocket.
the argument for swaging vs reaming is essentially that no matter what you are removing material by reaming, and that you are not removing it by swaging
I got the same issue but in 9mm from Win,,,3/4 had the crimps compared to the rest having the actual stamp with 0 crimps,,its a headache using the drill bit
You’re not using the 600 properly the handle should hang off the table edge for a full swing. Also the lower silver spring block should be locked down with the set screw on the right side at the point the case centers on the swaging rod. This keeps everything properly aligned so you don’t miss the hole and damage the brass or the rod.
Jason Niemier I figured that out after the video and mounted it to one of my bench top mounting plates (see my other videos). The dillon unit is back with its owner.
@@Makinja I have .45 ACP pistol brass I've shot 20+ times. Rifle brass is a different beast and is very dependent on pressures, loading near max, and if you plan to anneal it or not.
When I was seating primers in swagged 223 brass I could hardly feel resistance, made me worry about primers popping out during firing. When I ream the primer pocket it sits nice and tight, I admit that swagging is a lot easier and faster though. I also don't like when you swage it creates a light raised edge around primer pocket because that extra brass has to go somewhere. P.S. I primed thousands of WIN NT 9mm cases with RCBS hand priming tool and they all seated fine, it's slightly more difficult but not like trying to seat a primer in crimped .223 where you can damage the primer.
What is the black wire that is strung around your bench and poked in the hole of the press? Looks like you have to many things going on at once to Safely do any Reloading 😬
@@jamesglenn520 Do you mean the 10 gauge black wire on the left side of the press that is holding the LED light pointed at the Ram of the press so there is better lighting for the viewers to see what is happening? That black wire? Yeah a lot going on when you're making an educational/information video for others to watch..... I bet you're just a ray of sunshine to be around!
@@Springfield-eo8jl I just asked a simple question. Seems you are the one that turned the whole thing into a Negative. I'm truly sorry if inquiries make you feel uneasy or upset. 👌👍
@@jamesglenn520 "Looks like you have too many things going on at once to safely do any reloading😬" Yeah NOW you were asking a simple question........ After I point out its a light and you're a douche for making snarky comment.
I have the RCBS tool, but not the Dillon (yet). Funny thing about the RCBS unit - it works great when swaging 9 mm cases, but for some odd reason, it doesn't work well with 5.56 cases.
I bought one as well. It is not as smooth and efficent as the dillon ergonomically, but it works. I keep it next to my 650 XL in case I find one that slips through.
What am I doing wrong with the RCBS unit... I need practically beat the shit out of the lever to get the case to come off. So much force that the bench and everything on it jumps. After all of that, the pockets are inconsistant and some still can't seat primers. I'm about ready to throw it into Lake Erie and buy a Dillon or the CH4D. Help.
There is a havk where you can get a copper tube to place under the metal cup to pop the brass off. Its difficult to make for the Lee rams though. It works better tha the wood block I use in this video.
Just cut the crimp off with your deburring tool. Dillon tool is expensive(I have one) and the support ram inside the case will flatten brass burrs from the punched flash holes, sometimes obscuring the hole. Then you'll need a inside flash hole deburring tool to cut that out.
Update: I retracting my comment yes, I admit I was wrong WIN NT does have a crimp in a form of a ring, I just loaded 5k round with mixed brass and WIN NT was very common, I used my RCBS APC strip hand primer and not a single problem seating primers! Now .223 brass is whole different story where you HAVE to remove crimp.
The WIN NT pistol brass he is showing here ARE CRIMPED PRIMER POCKETS 100% FOR SURE. I know because i purchased a few thousand cases in 40 cal for $30 a thousand and was wondering why they were so cheap. They are crimped just like military brass and have to be treated as such. As for never seeing crimped pistol brass do a little research they are used by departments and agencies and are a pain in the but to get that crimp removed just right to seat the new primers. I have had good luck using CCI primers after the crimp is rolled out. Cheers and Merry Christmas.
Crimps are used in pistol caliber cartridges to stop the primers from vibrating loose when fired in a sub machine gun. So, yes, depending on where you get the ammo, it may be crimped.
Dima Prok Crimped pockets may not be as commonplace as they used to be, but as I recall, most ALL military brass was crimped, except for match or special purpose stuff. Not just for autos, I have seen .38 Special with crimped pockets. Probably not around much anymore but I know the airforce was issuing them to flight crews for a long time.
I'd like to point out that the small spring loaded alignment block that the cases rest on in the Dillon has a set screw on the side to lock it in place. This is needed so one doesn't rung the swage punch into the case head.
Does anyone watching this have a Dillon xl750? If so, have you heard of or used a tool from a company called Swagit? They have a tool model S750 for the press to swag a lot of brass on a progress press. I have a case feeder so I could theoretically swag a round with each handle pull of the press. The problem is the tool costs $129. If you have experience with this tool 1. Is it worth it and 2. Does it do a good job? There are no TH-cam videos about it. I contacted the company and they said they have not yet made a video covering the S750 yet. Sounds simple enough to make a video so I can’t understand why they haven’t yet. If this tool works, and you have the right set up with a progressive press and case feeder one could crank out a lot of swaging in a short amount of time. If anyone has this tool I’d appreciate a review.
Hopefully you haven't bought one yet... don't bother. Problem with using a swager in the 650/750 is that all of the upward pressure of the swaging process is put into the rim of the case where it's held by the shell plate carrier... you WILL tear up case rims. I know it sounds great to be able to swage with the pull of the handle, been there... but it's not worth it. The Super Swage 600 works much better because the rod you are putting the brass onto acts as an internal reinforcement backing for the swaging rod to push into. If you want progressive swaging, then you need to step up to a machine that's specifically engineered to do the job correctly... i.e. 1050. Yeah, I know... me either.
Frank W thanks for the advice. I actually found out that it would void my warranty so I bought an RCBS swaging die and I do my swaging on a single stage press.
Hornady has one for their progressive press, it doesn't use shellholder to hold a case but a rod that supports it from inside and cases are dropped in to the die upside down. I am thinking of getting one since it looks like it will be fastest solution.
Never had a primer back out after I removed material from the primer pocket with a military crimper removal tool. Your assumption is unfounded drilled out thousands of primer pockets not one has ever backed out even with hot loads.
There is another swager for the Dillon too. th-cam.com/video/0GSdlsKHwsc/w-d-xo.html Super Fast as its on the press + Case feeder no faster way to swage.
![TREASURE - 'KING KONG' COMEBACK SPECIAL [THE TREASURE SHOW]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Jx1wyMaQzf0/mqdefault.jpg)
I am working through 1000 pieces of Lake City .308 machine gun fired brass that I got from GI Brass in 2009. It needs a lot work. Which is why it has been in the original box for 11 years. CoVid lockdown is good for something, I guess. After running it through the vibratory case cleaner I lubed, full length sized and deprimed. Next was swaging out the mil-crimp, but ran into a problem with burrs on the inside of the primer flash hole that prevented proper seating on the Super Swage 600 mandrel. I had to take the extra step of running a flash hole reamer on all 1000 cases before I could swage them. After swaging they all got pocket cleaned to get rid of any shavings, ten I neck turned to 0.015 wall thickness, and now they are all getting length trimmed to 2.005, and then deburred. Like I say, it is a lot of work, but I can truly say, “What ammo shortage?” I like the SS 600; I mounted mine on a wood block that clamps in a woodworking vise on my bench. It is quick, precise, and takes minimal effort. I previously did 2,000 pieces of LC 69 .30-06 pulled down cases. When I get around to I have about 10K .223 mil-crimp cases I picked up at ranges that nobody else thought were worth messing with. As my mom always said, waste not, want not.”
Read your comment from three years ago about 1,000 pieces of LC 308 brass. You are a hero.
I use the rcbs case deburring tool to cut the crimps out of my 223 cases. The the chuck on my drill press can grip tail on the end of the deburring tool. This makes quick work of cutting out the crimp and ive never had an issue because of it. The dillon super swage looks like a great tool.
I also recommend inserting primers with the Lee handheld tool and not using a lever press.
Part of the reason why you had to do some Modification to the Dillon tool is because it's not meant to be flat on a bench. It is designed to be mounted vertical.
you can mount it horizontally like he has it - but there's a caveat, you need to raise it up enough to let the handle go past 90 degrees.
Buy once cry once. If you're doing serious loading on a Dillon progressive, you'll likely wind up with the Dillon Swager, maybe a couple of them. Inline Fabrication Fabrication makes some neat, caliber specific centering blocks for the 600 Super Swager. Drill down on that product and you'll find a couple of videos on automating it. I use the Super 600 Auto Eject modification and highly recommend it. You can also find that video on Utoob. Put the brass on the rod, pull the handle, let loose and the brass flies into a bucket. Process as fast as you can load the rod. No expensive or time consuming modifications to the equipment. All you need is a board, a bucket, a nail, and a rubber band to get started. If you like it, you can upgrade to a spring to avoid replacing rubber bands every thousand rounds or so.
$35 for the RCBS Swager 2 vs $115 for the Dillon 600 so cost is major factor. The dillion is 3x as much as the RCBS. RCBS also makes a bench mount swager for about $90. Also the change over time between the RCBS and Dillion has the RCBS winning on that round. Another thing I like about the RCBS it's just one more thing I don't have to mount to my already crowed bench. Yes if you mount it on a quick release board that makes it easier. But the RCBS comes in a normal die box which stakes very easy right on top of all my other die sets. Nice video, straight and too the point. A good comparison of the two different types of swagers.
Dillon 4 sure thx
Great explanation but there is one major error. At 9:05 you explain that the smaller step down is for 9mm. This is wrong. There is a separate adapter for 9mm. Dillon part number 62168. If you use the tool and put a 9mm on the adapter you show, it is not long enough to bottom out on the case. It will only flare the case mouth out as the swager pushes against the case. The case to be swaged must fit all the way to the bottom of the backing rod.
The RCBS is good for someone that reloads mixed headstamps and only deals with a handful of crimped brass at a time. With the Dillon, and the shoestring mod, I can run through 1,000 batch of 5.56 in under an hour. If you're processing brass by the bucket, the speed is worth the cost.
When you describe the spring loaded table as you position the brass on the Dillon Super Swage, please note that there is a small allen screw on the right side that you can lock to hold the position of the “table” so that you can quickly position the brass to the correct height to swage.
Good vid bro. Nicely done
they make different drill bits that work great. a small counter sink or reaming too also works faster, 45 degree angle. it wont go inside and widen the pocket and the angle helps seat the primer like a feed ramp.
JB I looked into that at the begining of my journey. I felt there are too many things that could go worng. Good and great ammo is made by using consistency. I feel these swagging tools accomplish that.
Nice video. Just bought the Dillon 600 and the Hornady swager system(for my lock-n-load). Planning on the Hornady for military 308 brass and Dillon for everything else. Your tool for cutting crimps is crude and has a mile of run out in it... Not here to poke fun of that but if I can suggest a zero flute countersink & deburring tool 90° I bet you will find it to be the perfect tool for the job.
Thanks!
The Dillon is more expensive and is independent of the press used. I would go for the Dillon
Thanks for pointing out that one removes metal from the case head with the bevel cutter. The swager just bumps back the burr that keeps one from smoothly inserting a new primer in the pocket.
Another easy improvement on the Dillon 600 is to make a Vee block to rest the case body on while swaging rather than the flat block that the unit comes with. The old block can be removed by screws in the bottom and a set screw on the side of the swager frame. The Vee block can be made of metal, plastic, or wood. The Vee block will provide side-to-side alignment of the primer pocket to the nib on the swager mandrel. If the primer pocket is not held on the center of the mandrel, the nib will take off the side of the primer pocket and ruin the case.
Cc Wynn drilled out tens of thousands of primer pockets with the RCBS military crimp removal tool it removes material from the brass case. I have never seen any of the primer pockets back out at all this assumption is unfounded because RCBS would not market a tool that removes material if it was a liability.
Very nice video, good information, but dang, $135 for the Dillon. I might just set all the 5.56/7.62 brass aside for now.
RCBS makes a swagger almost identical to the Dillon swagger; I also have the style that you are using but I don't care for it.
drill bit sized to the primer pocket isn't making the pocket loose. really the head isn't where you are going to have problems as your bolt face should be tight enough to hold the primer in place. if you have primer falling out you have other problems than a slight bevel at the end of the pocket.
the argument for swaging vs reaming is essentially that no matter what you are removing material by reaming, and that you are not removing it by swaging
I got the same issue but in 9mm from Win,,,3/4 had the crimps compared to the rest having the actual stamp with 0 crimps,,its a headache using the drill bit
You’re not using the 600 properly the handle should hang off the table edge for a full swing. Also the lower silver spring block should be locked down with the set screw on the right side at the point the case centers on the swaging rod. This keeps everything properly aligned so you don’t miss the hole and damage the brass or the rod.
Jason Niemier I figured that out after the video and mounted it to one of my bench top mounting plates (see my other videos). The dillon unit is back with its owner.
How many times is it recommended to re-use brass? Assuming re-use may gradually lead to metal fatigue of the brass and possible failure?
@@Makinja I have .45 ACP pistol brass I've shot 20+ times. Rifle brass is a different beast and is very dependent on pressures, loading near max, and if you plan to anneal it or not.
20 times...wow, that sure takes your ammo costs down over time, assuming you're recovering most of the spent shells after each range session.
@@Makinja when I fire brass once and recover it, I consider it free after that. I got one firing out of it and got it back.
what lee press is that?
nic bro
When I was seating primers in swagged 223 brass I could hardly feel resistance, made me worry about primers popping out during firing. When I ream the primer pocket it sits nice and tight, I admit that swagging is a lot easier and faster though. I also don't like when you swage it creates a light raised edge around primer pocket because that extra brass has to go somewhere. P.S. I primed thousands of WIN NT 9mm cases with RCBS hand priming tool and they all seated fine, it's slightly more difficult but not like trying to seat a primer in crimped .223 where you can damage the primer.
What’s the wire sticking out of the top of the LEE press..?
Scroll down in the comments someone already asked.
OMG that home made wood dowel is so out of true.
What is the black wire that is strung around your bench and poked in the hole of the press?
Looks like you have to many things going on at once to Safely do any Reloading 😬
*INSERT SIREN NOISE" SAFETY POLICE! SAFETY POLICE!!!!! *INSERT SIREN NOISE"
@@Springfield-eo8jl Funny Guy 🤣
So what's the wiring to the press for??
@@jamesglenn520 Do you mean the 10 gauge black wire on the left side of the press that is holding the LED light pointed at the Ram of the press so there is better lighting for the viewers to see what is happening? That black wire? Yeah a lot going on when you're making an educational/information video for others to watch..... I bet you're just a ray of sunshine to be around!
@@Springfield-eo8jl I just asked a simple question. Seems you are the one that turned the whole thing into a Negative. I'm truly sorry if inquiries make you feel uneasy or upset. 👌👍
@@jamesglenn520 "Looks like you have too many things going on at once to safely do any reloading😬" Yeah NOW you were asking a simple question........ After I point out its a light and you're a douche for making snarky comment.
Isn’t soda delicious?
I have the RCBS tool, but not the Dillon (yet). Funny thing about the RCBS unit - it works great when swaging 9 mm cases, but for some odd reason, it doesn't work well with 5.56 cases.
Mine Bends ,and also mushrooms the threaded rod end ,not happy with it .
I have a RCBS one like the Dillon.
I bought one as well. It is not as smooth and efficent as the dillon ergonomically, but it works. I keep it next to my 650 XL in case I find one that slips through.
did alot of brass with the die rcbs set up..... never again.
hyperlink for yellow "dust pan" like tray?
thanks
Got it at harbor freight like 14 years ago
www.harborfreight.com/easy-sorter-funnel-tray-37081.html
What am I doing wrong with the RCBS unit... I need practically beat the shit out of the lever to get the case to come off. So much force that the bench and everything on it jumps. After all of that, the pockets are inconsistant and some still can't seat primers. I'm about ready to throw it into Lake Erie and buy a Dillon or the CH4D. Help.
RedBengal put a little oil on the swager pin, once you get it broken in it gets smoother and easier.
Springfield 0612 I've actually done that. Still not helping. I'm thinking this unit is just not for me.
There is a havk where you can get a copper tube to place under the metal cup to pop the brass off. Its difficult to make for the Lee rams though. It works better tha the wood block I use in this video.
Just cut the crimp off with your deburring tool. Dillon tool is expensive(I have one) and the support ram inside the case will flatten brass burrs from the punched flash holes, sometimes obscuring the hole. Then you'll need a inside flash hole deburring tool to cut that out.
RCBS Swager is a toy , the threaded rod mushrooms or bends , its silly putty .
Get a pice of copper pipe connector instead of using wood. 3/4 inch copper pipe connecter
The two rods that come with the RCBS swager is not a matter of length, its smaller in diameter for use with .223/5.56 NATO brass, only!
They mushroom or bend looking at them , "High tensile " lol
why dont U put a magnet strip under your wood block.
Ray O That Lee press is made of aluminum, so it’s not magnetic.
Lotta Southern Engineering going on here...
asullivan50i if it works......it works!!! Thanks for watching!!!
Update: I retracting my comment yes, I admit I was wrong WIN NT does have a crimp in a form of a ring, I just loaded 5k round with mixed brass and WIN NT was very common, I used my RCBS APC strip hand primer and not a single problem seating primers! Now .223 brass is whole different story where you HAVE to remove crimp.
The WIN NT pistol brass he is showing here ARE CRIMPED PRIMER POCKETS 100% FOR SURE. I know because i purchased a few thousand cases in 40 cal for $30 a thousand and was wondering why they were so cheap. They are crimped just like military brass and have to be treated as such. As for never seeing crimped pistol brass do a little research they are used by departments and agencies and are a pain in the but to get that crimp removed just right to seat the new primers. I have had good luck using CCI primers after the crimp is rolled out. Cheers and Merry Christmas.
WIN NT brass has crimped primers. Its a matter of fact. Just because you have no experiance with this brass doesn't mean its not fact.
Crimps are used in pistol caliber cartridges to stop the primers from vibrating loose when fired in a sub machine gun. So, yes, depending on where you get the ammo, it may be crimped.
Dima Prok Crimped pockets may not be as commonplace as they used to be, but as I recall, most ALL military brass was crimped, except for match or special purpose stuff. Not just for autos, I have seen .38 Special with crimped pockets. Probably not around much anymore but I know the airforce was issuing them to flight crews for a long time.
I'd like to point out that the small spring loaded alignment block that the cases rest on in the Dillon has a set screw on the side to lock it in place. This is needed so one doesn't rung the swage punch into the case head.
add magnet to that wood block
Too bad you did not do 556.
Does anyone watching this have a Dillon xl750? If so, have you heard of or used a tool from a company called Swagit? They have a tool model S750 for the press to swag a lot of brass on a progress press. I have a case feeder so I could theoretically swag a round with each handle pull of the press. The problem is the tool costs $129. If you have experience with this tool 1. Is it worth it and 2. Does it do a good job? There are no TH-cam videos about it. I contacted the company and they said they have not yet made a video covering the S750 yet. Sounds simple enough to make a video so I can’t understand why they haven’t yet. If this tool works, and you have the right set up with a progressive press and case feeder one could crank out a lot of swaging in a short amount of time. If anyone has this tool I’d appreciate a review.
Hopefully you haven't bought one yet... don't bother. Problem with using a swager in the 650/750 is that all of the upward pressure of the swaging process is put into the rim of the case where it's held by the shell plate carrier... you WILL tear up case rims. I know it sounds great to be able to swage with the pull of the handle, been there... but it's not worth it. The Super Swage 600 works much better because the rod you are putting the brass onto acts as an internal reinforcement backing for the swaging rod to push into.
If you want progressive swaging, then you need to step up to a machine that's specifically engineered to do the job correctly... i.e. 1050. Yeah, I know... me either.
Frank W thanks for the advice. I actually found out that it would void my warranty so I bought an RCBS swaging die and I do my swaging on a single stage press.
Hornady has one for their progressive press, it doesn't use shellholder to hold a case but a rod that supports it from inside and cases are dropped in to the die upside down. I am thinking of getting one since it looks like it will be fastest solution.
Never had a primer back out after I removed material from the primer pocket with a military crimper removal tool. Your assumption is unfounded drilled out thousands of primer pockets not one has ever backed out even with hot loads.
I’ve moved away from swaging. Too inconsistent. Ive used Dillon and frankford Arsenal and the only method that’s been 100% effective is reaming.
I’ve moved away from swaging. Too inconsistent. Ive used Dillon and frankford Arsenal and the only method that’s been 100% effective is reaming.
There is another swager for the Dillon too.
th-cam.com/video/0GSdlsKHwsc/w-d-xo.html
Super Fast as its on the press + Case feeder no faster way to swage.
chasing that block of wood sucks....