About the "1B72C" LED notation, it's designed and made in China so, 并联电路 (Bìnglián diànlù) means parallel circuit, 串联电路 (Chuànlián diànlù) means series circuit. You'll also occasionally see the same notation for battery packs but it's a lot more common for LEDs for some reason.
It bothers me that we have services that intentionally scam people without recourse. Buying anything online takes a significant amount of homework, and people like you Clive, are essential in that purchasing process. Thank you.
That's really why we really need to start blanket banning products from China. Products should be tested and certified by a non-china regulatory body before being sold in most countries. It would be annoying but it would be worth it to save lives/people buying garbage that's just thrown away.
So true. Sad that customs does not do these checks, if that was possible, 80 to 90 % of imports from China would be send back. Wishful thinking is that China accepts laws that we all know about safety and so on, and prevents idiot designs to flood the world market.
It also depends what website you are buying your products. If I want some type of quality I avoid these Chinese brand stores. Even if you don't get exactly what you are paying for, it is often better.
Its China what did you expect they build their shit like rebar that only bends 90 degrees one way and if you even tap the bend on something hard it shatters and have building not just collapsing but collapsing on alot of people and the reason you dont hear about it is because China is a dystopia world where your freedom is an illusion everyone has fallen for and at the same time have a scam culture where they litteraly just scam eachother like selling stuff thats 80% filler 20% product or putting so much carrogenan or however you spell it in stuff like with ice cream to the point it doesn't melt and when heat is applied it just burns But we should look at them as an example because communism is great and the ccp rocks and im glad to see Xi survive last months coup
seems typical. they're set up to do it right if there's a potentially lucrative customer that really insists on it... but also very aware of exactly what they can get away with in practice
I wonder if the Chinese are trying to say it has the equivalent brightness if a 100W incandescent bulb. I don't think they want to brag about it having a high power consumption. They sorta do the same thing here in Japan.
When testing current, if you get "zero", you should always double-check by testing with something you know does have some current flow, to make sure you didn't just accidentally blow a fuse in your meter without realizing it.
@@unbekannternutzer8506 Nonsense. The same current flows in both. It has to by definition (except under a fault condition). So it doesn't matter which you measure
I work in green energy. Your videos don't help me directly but the drawings do. Understanding what various components are, how to identify them and how they work in a circuit has been extremely valuable to me. All I can offer is a simple thanks... so thank you!
@@Nnn-j7qas an electrical engineer who has gone through school, he is 100% correct. The green energy edicts have been nothing but massive grifts.
Bradycardia with an interesting arrhythmia. No T wave in the first one, and the second T wave is pretty unusual I don't work in Cardiology, but even I would regard this as a bit sus . . . 😀
@@phils4634 the T wave could have a retrograde P wave or it could have a U wave. Those are really the only things that make T waves look like that. Sincerely, a paramedic
Now, I'm curious. A lot of LED lights broadcast their output compared to incandescent bulbs of a higher wattage. I wonder if that's what the 100W is actually referring to.
Don't over think it. Their 30 watts of led is roughly equivalent to 100 watts of incandescent....in lumens. LED bulbs are labeled this way already. Nothing fishy here.
@@joemendyk9994 100W incandescent is around 1500lm. 35W LED should be close to 4000lm. Any equivalence there is extremely rough. And you can't just write 100W if there's not 100W being used; you have to write something like "equivalent to 100W incandescent." You could never get away with putting this on a store shelf in a properly regulated country, even ignoring the floating ground lead.
I bought a similar LED lamp to replace a blown halogen jobby in my Mum's garden. The lamp worked OK, but the cable sticking out of the back was only 95mm long. I had to solder and shrink tube some more cable on, just to be able to reach a junction box on the wall. Then she decided the replacement wasn't bright enough... It now has an eBay 100W lamp, which actually draws about 105 watts at first, but quickly drops to about 80-85 W. It is using about 100 individual LEDs. We shall see how long it lasts.
I wonder about the mains isolation holding up for any length of time, with the LEDS and especially the "driver" boards directly glued to the (not earthed) case.
I remember when led's first came out they were marketed by comparing them to incandescent lights. Witch are sold using watts as the delimiter. So your 100w equivalent led would say so on the box, (not always with the equivalent distinction) even though it's draw is much less. It's been awhile but afik a lot lights are still marketed like that. The issue is the industry needs to move to using lumens to grade light output since that is independent of power draw when multiple technologies are to be compared. Could that be the issue here? How does that light's output compare to an incandescent bulb?
Have you seen lumen ratings on chinese torches? They just put random crazy numbers on. At least with wattage they know people don't want super high power draw so have some self control with the lies
"100W equivalent" would still make these lights about half as efficient as modern stuff from Phillips and other major lighting manufacturers where ~15W LED bulbs are their 100W tungsten substitutes.
It would be easy to increase the wattage by simply installing a load resistor - glued to the case, of course. On the other hand, a resistor might cost more than LEDs these days. I’m being silly, it costs nothing to simply lie about the wattage, and of course make no mention of of the actual luminous output
Looked like a neat little enclosure. I was most surprised the front panel was real glass! I bet if there was a non-destructive way to open it up, it could be fun to zigzag some LED strips in there to make a cool little low voltage wash light, or maybe a strobe.
Maybe a proper heat gun and patience would do the trick, though the case might dissipate heat too quickly. Maybe using an oven? The glue might not react to heat before the innards let the magic smoke out anyway. …If the innards are worth saving, that is. Otherwise, crank that oven up. :)
It may not be non-destructive opening it this way, but there's nothing to stop you from doing just what you say, then resealing it any number of effective ways... Get on it!
IDK what, if any, type of solvent can weaken the glue. However, regardless of how weak or strong the glue is, one could attempt to introduce a fluid (gas is easier, liquid is safer) through the power cable opening at sufficient pressure to force the glass off. Probably still break it, but prying was going to do that anyway.
The linear regulators are inadequately cooled, because the power consumption fell, after it had been switched on for a few seconds, which is indicative over-temperature protection circuitry being triggered.
I like the fact that the casing has the pillars for the screws and the LEDs have the holes for the screws, and they line up, but they just used glue instead to save costs on screws. SCREWS!
I’m actually OK with the glue. The adhesive is probably fine, and this product was never intended to be serviced, so might as well glue it and save a few pennies. Where it fails is not providing a water tight gland for the cable and not providing a screw for the earth wire.
I bought a too cheap leaf collector and it kept on falling apart. Now I have reworked it four times and it works. Replaced aluminium rivets by steel bolts, and so on. I also turned some things in the freewheel so that it is no longer one wheel drive. Not much money spent to make a better product. Most reviews were bad and one said that it wasn’t that heavy to carry to the waste dump.
Probably also less likely to break. The pillars for the screws did look rather short therefore any screw going into them would risk either being largely ineffectual or just breaking the pillar. In this instance I suspect that while not repairable, the glue was probably the best choice given the case.
makes you wonder how they lay out their PCB's, cause most EDA packages won't let you assign the same designator, or will change the designator when you copy & paste. Also loved the inverted L & N wire colors (not that it really matters for this circuit)
@@jordanwaeles at least Altium will let you name them the same..but it will complain when you run any DRC, which you can just ignore. Guess other software will do the same
same reference != same part. If you want yo revise this and change a value, how do you specify which? "The rightmost R1"? (whose right?) @@bastelwastel8551
Hi Clive, You missed pointing out with the lose fitting wires that it is rated IP66 (a rating for electrical enclosures that can protect against powerful water jets up to 1 m of submersion). Possibly IP60. 40W, no Ground to earth, and wrong IP rating.
Hey Clive. Have you looked at the 100W lightning, micro, usb-c cables yet? Some have the chip and led others do not. I have a variety of them and none of them will even fast charge.
Many USB charged products do not have the resistors required to indicate what they are, so sometimes smart chargers will not even put out power. It's a bit of a non standardised minefield at the moment.
I have a proven Samsung USB C charger and just got 2 new s23s with no charger in the box but there was a C to C cable. BOTH cables throw a USB charging, please check your cables....etc. So I decided, for jokes really, to try these C to micro, lightning, and C cables with a nice clear window on the end, a stellar blue LED with 100W printed and a sweet looking chip in the window... these cables wony fast charge, but, at least they don't throw a USB charging error.
I just heard it twice, and I'm now forced to interrogate my memory... "Has Clive always been saying *_'Cink Palculator'_* and I just haven't been paying attention?!"
Atleast they used Copper coated aluminum. I've seen Copper coated plastic wires (it melted at about 260c). I was shacked that that was used as a mains cable for 230v
Surprised they also used 3 wires when the earth was not connected, 50% more expensive for nothing ... unless they want you to believe it's grounded, but I'd assume people fooled by these ratings with wires so thin would not know or care about grounding. edit : and even the ground connector inside the case, where no one would even see it ? looks like someone at some point designed it somewhat correctly, and someone else screwed it up later.
@@wtmayhew yep, I wasn't sure about the translation so I used "connector" instead of "lug". That part at least was almost done correctly, if only they tapped the case and add the missing screw. Or they could have omitted it and saved a few pennies as you said. I'm surprised they went "so far", and didn't commit in the end, either go all the way or remove it entirely.
@@wtmayhew I didn't take it as criticism ;) english is not my mother tongue, I intended to thank you for confirming that "lug" was correct in this context but it ended being lost in a reformulation of my message.
Not only is it 100W and IP65 rated, it probably also is flicker free with a peak 100mV ripple noise a power factor of at least 94% and virtually zero feedback into the mains line.. also you can maintain every part with ease. What a brilliant product !
Thanks for your time in showing us this unit. I often wonder what a real 100 watt light would look like, it is often thought by me that they must express that the light output is equivalent to a 100 watt halogen or such. Those liars!
I grew tired of Chinese led lights lying about their specs, so I built my own 100w dual cob light some years ago. Can't remember the exact output in lumens, but it was seriously bright, and had an actual power consumption of a little over 100w.
What a clever design! When one of the LED plates goes open, the second one gets double the current, and the light "just works" as if nothing happened :D
@2:00 - reminds me of a time where I didn't "put this back" and wanted to test the new 220v outlet for my generator at home. I went to test that I had 220v across the hot leads and BANG! Tripped the whole house breaker. The flashlight on the floor of the garage was the only light visible. I remember thinking to myself that I thought the light at the end of the tunnel would be brighter. Found about a 1/4" (about 7mm for those who don't speak freedom units) of one of the leads was missing. The fuse in the meter did it's job as did the main breaker of the house. Glad I was wearing eye protection when I was doing the work. I now remember to always put my thingy back where it belongs when I am done with it.
@@mdb45424it's completely understandable. Every time you buy a bulb, they give the wattage and compare it to the incandescent bulb equivalent. People therefore equate Watts to lumens
The goal, of course, is to create a device that illuminates and only kind of acts like a space heater, instead of incandescent lights, space heaters that only kind of act like lights
@@KurtRichterCISSP I'm always amazed at LEDs being able to draw half the power and put out 3x the light of incandescent, and from a dark yellow sodium colored light to full white daylight.
Yup, I saw a 5000W LED Shoplight on Amazon once. I kinda wanted to buy it just so I could return it as fake. Can you imagine how much light 5,000 Watts of LED's would produce?
With "copper coated aluminium wire" there's bound to be some schmoke sooner or later. Also, with 72 LEDs in series, if one dies, that entire chip is d.e.d !!! Great Viodeo, thanks Clive!😀
White LEDs are generally Blue LEDs covered with yellow phosphor. Blue LEDs are InGaN, and have no bond wires in the actual LED construction. InGaN LEDs tend to short circuit when they fail catastrophically. So, unless there is physical damage and an LED is mechanically broken, the dominant failure mode is short circuit, to the rest will stay on.
They almost got the grounding done. Ground wire properly terminated with crimped connector. Hole for a screw right next to it. They stopped at screwing it in. Perhaps a sudden shortage of screws? Last minute cost cutting?
I wonder if this is intended as 100w equivalent, it has the same energy saving phrase as most lightbulbs these days. Found a Philips bulb that shows 2.3w = 40w on the box, but it's labelled 40w on Amazon. Obviously if it's equivalent they've managed some extreme inefficiency, seems most 100w equivalent lightbulbs sit at around 13w.
I wonder if this 100W isn't how powerful the standard lightbulb should be to match the brightness of this floodlight, while the actual power demand of this light is way smaller because it's LED. It was typical for LED lightsources sometime ago, and this floodlight doesn't even look as bright as a classic 100W lightbulb, at least on camera.
Correct me if I am wrong but doesn't that 100w rating mean that it's the light output equivalent and not that it uses 100 watts? I did not see you using a lux meter to test it's lumens. All you did was test it's power draw.
LED replacements for incandescent bulbs sometimes have a label like that to give context for how bright they will be, but LED lights of this style are typically rated by the actual output, which can't be any higher than the input draw.
Hard to tell, but it did look about as bright as a 100W incandescent bulb. It would be interesting to know the lumens. Drawing 37 watts for that level of brightness is unimpressive.
@@Kevin-mp5of Do you go around the Internet looking for grammatical errors? Nobody said "it's" or "its" either. So your comment is pointless on multiple fronts. Congratulations.
I wish you'd try and pry the modules off the housing. Looks to me like they are only attached along the edges, not really on the backsides of each module. Wonder how bad the thermal would be.
They don't connect the Earth wire because usually there are live components in contact with the case and it will often go bang ! They realised that they can get away with shoddy design and workmanship if they don't make it safe ! They feel the Earth connection is more trouble for them but they want it to appear to be up to standard, to the Chinese appearance is most important, safety is optional !
In the UK, peaking at about 340V. Some tiny caps are rated for that by having an internal configuration of multiple capacitors in series. But it's a bit squirmy.
@@bigclivedotcom Ho, ho. I'll add squirmy to my repertoire. I did a rough calc and I think the resistive dropper should be roughly 330 ohm to drop enough to allow roughly 30W to be consumed, but a multimeter is always more accurate. Oh, to be a fly on your wall, or maybe not!
After the front falls off, isn't it common practice to tow it from the environment? Celotape for the fix maybe? - Thanks as always for the content Clive!
I noticed the live and neutral wires are connected backwards on the PCB, but as you connected it correctly according to the colours when powering, I'm guessing the screen print is incorrect (or it's a generic PCB that can be configured in reverse polarity). Lucky it was assembled correctly at the factory to begin with, in that case.
I do Amazon Vine reviews and one of the things that I test on light modules and power supplies is whether they live up to the ad's wattage claims and whether they have a ground... I have found that sometimes it doesn't appear that they have a ground, but it is because of a non-conductive layer on the surface of the housing. Best way to test that is just to put the two probes of your multimeter on the housing and measure the resistance across it. If very large, then it has a coating on it and you might need to use the sharpened tips of your probe to get through the coating. Once you can show continuity across the case, use one of those points (where you've gone through the coating) to check continuity to the ground wire. With many of the lights, they make ridiculous lumen claims because they figure that most people do not have the equipment / setup to properly measure lumens. Meters for measuring lux are fairly cheap and the measurements are easy to make... As such, the sellers do not list a lux claim since it would be easy to verify (i.e. call them out for their blatant lies)... What I *can* test though is their wattage claims... If they say "100W", it sure as 'ell better BE pretty close to 100W or rating will go down... If they want to say that it is the equivalent of a 100W incandescent bulb, then they better say something like, "100W equiv" or their rating will go down... For power supplies, I measure the amperage and voltage going into the power supply and the amperage and voltage coming out of it... I use a piece of coiled NiChrome wire (salvaged from an electric clothes dryer) as a load resistor, varying the amperage by changing where I clip into the coiled section of NiChrome wire. I have found some acceptable things on Temu, but I've found a lot of crap there also... Same goes for AliExpress and Amazon for that matter...
Would that 100w kind of imply what we would look at as the brightness of a 100 watt bulb? Being LED of course it won't be drawing that, which is a plus. In other words, we would like the lumens of a 100w incandescent but the current of an led which is much lower. Am I missing something?
Of course the 100w refers to it chucking out the equivalent light output of a 100w incandescent light bulb. I have a 60w equivalent led lamp at home which only uses 12w of power 😉😉
Well, that would mean that 100W equivalent would need 20W LED. The 38W measured would more be like 190W equivalent. Why haven't they advertised 200W then?
nah. they will have a little disclaimer at the bottom with the finest text saying: "100W is just a product code. It doesn't mean it can output 100 Watts."
So much for LED being good then as 60w equivalent CFL's have been available for decades that only use 11w of power... I'd get a new LED lamp as Philips do 60w equivalent LED filament lamps that only use about 4w lol.
@@FrontSideBus CFLs contain mercury vapour, which is a hazardous material. This makes their construction a lot more daunting and expensive than constructing LEDs, which are pretty easy to make. They also require more complicated driver circuitry; an LED only requires a constant current power supply, while a CFL requires a ballast (magnetic or electronic) to pass high voltage and get the heated contacts working before it can strike. So yes, LEDs are good, even if they don't outperform CFLs in brightness.
100W? Could that be perhaps, a suggestion that the light output is meant to be equal to a 100W tungsten bulb 💡? Harking back to the days (well, a couple of years) when lamps (bulbs) used to carry that little tungsten equivalence rating on the packet?
Yes, apparently that's how they quote the light output now as "equivalent" to a certain power of incandescent tungsten filament light rather than the actual input power to the led device. I makes it very difficult to actually select a good high-efficiency lamp now.
Almost as good a rating system as the 1,000,000mAh battery bank I found the other day, that was the size of my thumb. I wonder at what point their rated value will exceed the point at which it should collapse into a black hole?
@@esecallum It's not hard to "power" a lithium fire. Generally you just need to wait for the power pack to become pierced and it happens all on its own.
Is it too early to wish you a Merry Christmas? I think no. To my fave electrical master I wish you and your partner a fabulouso Christmas and an even better New Year. All our love Alex and Andy xxx.
@@bigclivedotcom didn’t know but love you for the fun and the work you do. I still remember the Alzheimer’s video you did. I often think about it. My dad had severe Alzheimer’s and Parkinson’s well before it was diagnosed. Keep pulling everything apart. It’s really enjoyable. Again merry Christmas and looking forward to 2024
TBH I read 100watt as equivalent to a 100watt incandescent bulb, which is 1600 lumens. This is quite common now when you go to buy lightbulbs at any US store. So assuming it's actually safe, I wouldn't want to return as long as it produces enough lumens.
Look the case had no leakage from the live wire, which is just about as good as you can expect from temu, and it almost did half of what you paid for so i'd call this a win.
You're the only one I can think to ask this specific question. Would you trust a reptile UVB lamp for personal use to raise vitamin D? Is there a risk of UVC light being emitted? It's a mercury vapor 160watt bulb. Plan to use sparingly in the winter
Back in 2015 -ish I was still able to get a refrund from an Alibaba seller, of a floodlight sold as 50W. It had a measured wattage around 30, and it had a driver labeled as 35W inside. IDK if they removed the labels since, probably 99% of customers wouldnt bother (or dare) to check. It also had the ground wire loose, even though there was threaded connecting point. At least they were easier to disasassemble back then 😅
In my experience, it's always the power board that they cheap out on. I wouldn't be at all surprised if they paired their 30W PSU with a pair of 50W COB's, but as you can't get the bugger open to replace the drivers, it's all a bit academic.
Aluminum was never meant to be used in an electrical system . In America , some " genius " decided it would be more cost effective to wire homes with this product and many died as a result of heat buildup in the aluminum wire system and fire resulted and homes destroyed . Cutting corners in anything , when proper investigation is done and known problems exist , is the wrong way to do business with anything . But alas....those who wish to get rich the quick way disregard anything and move forward regardless of danger to life . Clive , this is the world we live in and one must be on guard . Thanks for your work in exposing many frauds that make it to the market place . Salute...as I sip my Sauvignon . :O)
I've bought 12v 30w "cob" leds on amazon that ended up being 24v 100w and to be honest I've driven them at 28v and drawn about 150w a pop and as long as you keep them cold they keep on chuffing away. And if you ever question the power output its "its based on how bright they are compared to halogen lights , its the same light as a 100w halogen" , I have one cob here that's rated at 100w which was expensive enough at 14 euro , yea I can drive it to 300w no problem with a heat sink and fan. I don't believe the ratings on them at all , its more like their safe rating.
Is it 100W actual or equivalent? By that I mean LED bulbs typically have 2 wattage ratings listed on their packaging...the Incandescent Wattage it's light output is equivalent to and the Wattage it actually draws...in Canada, most 100 Watt equivalent LED bulbs actually draw around 13-15 Watts so you get the same amount of illumination as a 100W Incandescent bulb while using less than a fifth of the power...
Yes, the Temu stuff can be a bit dodgy. I reviewed one of their "body camera" thingies. The build quality was pretty darned good. The image sharpness was pretty good. It was 1080P which was pretty good. I bought it as 4K though and it does have a 4K setting. The exposures were way off and could not be corrected. I wonder whether it's hackable... th-cam.com/video/Bcyz6OleLgY/w-d-xo.html
Interesting. I think it just confirmed what most of us thought as soon as we saw it 😳. I wonder what it’s actual lumen/ watt output is, it’s going to be loosing as much power as heat through those two R30 resistors as the light. I dare bet those will burn out in no time at all carrying 30w
Only way I managed to disassemble light like that is to use that super thin spudger advertised for curved phone screens. It's really useful for many things. I normaly just squeeze some alcohol around wait few sec and just slap that spudger inside and move around.
About the "1B72C" LED notation, it's designed and made in China so, 并联电路 (Bìnglián diànlù) means parallel circuit, 串联电路 (Chuànlián diànlù) means series circuit. You'll also occasionally see the same notation for battery packs but it's a lot more common for LEDs for some reason.
Above average TH-cam comment. Excellent 👍
@@chrisprobert6Hive mind at its best!
@benbaselet2026 we ain't on chinas team .
Thanks for the education. Useful to know.
@@notexpatjoeis your name Joe?
It bothers me that we have services that intentionally scam people without recourse. Buying anything online takes a significant amount of homework, and people like you Clive, are essential in that purchasing process.
Thank you.
That's really why we really need to start blanket banning products from China. Products should be tested and certified by a non-china regulatory body before being sold in most countries. It would be annoying but it would be worth it to save lives/people buying garbage that's just thrown away.
So true. Sad that customs does not do these checks, if that was possible, 80 to 90 % of imports from China would be send back. Wishful thinking is that China accepts laws that we all know about safety and so on, and prevents idiot designs to flood the world market.
The sea of garbage is getting deeper.
It also depends what website you are buying your products.
If I want some type of quality I avoid these Chinese brand stores. Even if you don't get exactly what you are paying for, it is often better.
A simple way to avoid being scammed is to see if the item is either made in china or sold by a chinese company
"The dremeling is complete and I've made a huge mess, this is not unusual" is the most relatable thing I've heard all year
It covers EVERYTHING in the vicinity. That's why the Dremel is the last resort.
All year lol, it's like 6 days old XD
Damn, it wasn't just two circles of yellow paint on a plank? TEMU are stepping up their "standards" and getting "better".
Some would say shipping working but dangerous/sub-standard products is more dangerous than shipping something that doesn't work at all
Its China what did you expect they build their shit like rebar that only bends 90 degrees one way and if you even tap the bend on something hard it shatters and have building not just collapsing but collapsing on alot of people and the reason you dont hear about it is because China is a dystopia world where your freedom is an illusion everyone has fallen for and at the same time have a scam culture where they litteraly just scam eachother like selling stuff thats 80% filler 20% product or putting so much carrogenan or however you spell it in stuff like with ice cream to the point it doesn't melt and when heat is applied it just burns
But we should look at them as an example because communism is great and the ccp rocks and im glad to see Xi survive last months coup
Just when you think Wish had hit bottom, Temu says hold my ginger tea.
Well, people get exactly what they pay for. They want it for nothing, they get almost nothing.
Temu isn't the problem here.
NGL, I was suspecting something similar when I saw those giant yellow circles at the start. Like maybe a dozen normal size LEDs in the middle.
And from the look of it .. there was a place to screw in the earth wire directly next to it
Yup. A bit shallow and needed tapped.
Extra screw cost and labor time ! You're FIRED !
seems typical. they're set up to do it right if there's a potentially lucrative customer that really insists on it... but also very aware of exactly what they can get away with in practice
@@michaelmoorrees3585 _If they are so worried about cost, why did they spend the time and money to crimp a ring terminal on the ground wire?_
I wonder if the Chinese are trying to say it has the equivalent brightness if a 100W incandescent bulb. I don't think they want to brag about it having a high power consumption. They sorta do the same thing here in Japan.
printing out an enlarged picture of the circuit board for presentation is such an underrated move
When testing current, if you get "zero", you should always double-check by testing with something you know does have some current flow, to make sure you didn't just accidentally blow a fuse in your meter without realizing it.
Clive has a university degree in this subject.
Besides you should change phase and neutral to see if there would be current flowing otherwise.
@@unbekannternutzer8506 Nonsense.
The same current flows in both. It has to by definition (except under a fault condition).
So it doesn't matter which you measure
@@deang5622 not If you measure against pe which is basically neutral
That’s why I’m more inclined to trust a filament lamp-based tester. Meters are fine except when they’re not.
I work in green energy. Your videos don't help me directly but the drawings do. Understanding what various components are, how to identify them and how they work in a circuit has been extremely valuable to me. All I can offer is a simple thanks... so thank you!
Green energy as in nuclear, right?
@AverageAlien probably referring to the "green deal" getting us to pay as much "green" per kwh as possible?
@@Nnn-j7q sure NPC
@@Nnn-j7qas an electrical engineer who has gone through school, he is 100% correct. The green energy edicts have been nothing but massive grifts.
A somewhat irregular ECG printed on electronics always inspires confidence.
Bradycardia with an interesting arrhythmia. No T wave in the first one, and the second T wave is pretty unusual I don't work in Cardiology, but even I would regard this as a bit sus . . . 😀
Haha, that’s the first thing I noticed!
@@phils4634, yeah I’d be suggesting we visit the ED if I found this on my monitor.
Don't mind that, it's just there to save time for the coroner's inquest.
@@phils4634 the T wave could have a retrograde P wave or it could have a U wave. Those are really the only things that make T waves look like that.
Sincerely, a paramedic
Now that's comic gold ...
"This is gonna get bright"
.....
"It's 37 Watts"
The rear honeycomb pattern is an encouraging sign that this lamp will beehive itself. 🐝
Or, if you try to open it up, you'll probably get stung.
Hexagons are the bestagons!
The hexagons are more respected but the circles are the most respected of all.
....being yellow, might encourage the bees.....
Now, I'm curious. A lot of LED lights broadcast their output compared to incandescent bulbs of a higher wattage. I wonder if that's what the 100W is actually referring to.
@gazrgazr2394 when have you ever known chinese knock-off products to be accurate or complete in descriptions?
Bingo. 100w old money - which is how Joe blogs 'measured' brightness before leds
If it was 100W it would probably melt after a week or so
Don't over think it. Their 30 watts of led is roughly equivalent to 100 watts of incandescent....in lumens. LED bulbs are labeled this way already. Nothing fishy here.
@@joemendyk9994 100W incandescent is around 1500lm. 35W LED should be close to 4000lm. Any equivalence there is extremely rough. And you can't just write 100W if there's not 100W being used; you have to write something like "equivalent to 100W incandescent." You could never get away with putting this on a store shelf in a properly regulated country, even ignoring the floating ground lead.
I bought a similar LED lamp to replace a blown halogen jobby in my Mum's garden. The lamp worked OK, but the cable sticking out of the back was only 95mm long. I had to solder and shrink tube some more cable on, just to be able to reach a junction box on the wall. Then she decided the replacement wasn't bright enough...
It now has an eBay 100W lamp, which actually draws about 105 watts at first, but quickly drops to about 80-85 W. It is using about 100 individual LEDs. We shall see how long it lasts.
Not for long, I hate those individual SMD type floodlights. They're all individual points of failure
I love that amazingly 1970s typeface that "100W" is written in. :)
I wonder about the mains isolation holding up for any length of time, with the LEDS and especially the "driver" boards directly glued to the (not earthed) case.
It's good to see that they have done the enumeration correctly! FR and FR, R1, R1 and R1 and U1, U1 and U1 and C1 and C!. Perfect!
I remember when led's first came out they were marketed by comparing them to incandescent lights. Witch are sold using watts as the delimiter. So your 100w equivalent led would say so on the box, (not always with the equivalent distinction) even though it's draw is much less. It's been awhile but afik a lot lights are still marketed like that. The issue is the industry needs to move to using lumens to grade light output since that is independent of power draw when multiple technologies are to be compared. Could that be the issue here? How does that light's output compare to an incandescent bulb?
That is my thought as well. 100W of equivalent light output when compared to incandescent.
Have you seen lumen ratings on chinese torches? They just put random crazy numbers on. At least with wattage they know people don't want super high power draw so have some self control with the lies
"100W equivalent" would still make these lights about half as efficient as modern stuff from Phillips and other major lighting manufacturers where ~15W LED bulbs are their 100W tungsten substitutes.
A 100W equivalent LED should draw much less than 35W. Not even half that, so that should not be what they meant (or this thing is super inefficient).
@@julians6679I mean, these big LED clusters without any cooling in a plastic box prolly aren't gonna run too efficiently I guess
Would be interesting to change the sense resistors so that it would put out 100W, see how long it survives.
Not sure if Clive does any #shorts - but that would certainly be a good starting point. 😆
I'm a great fan of your work MR.BIG. Great videos, Thanks for many years of awesome entertainment.
I always take power ratings with a pinch of salt nice work Clive 😊
It would be easy to increase the wattage by simply installing a load resistor - glued to the case, of course. On the other hand, a resistor might cost more than LEDs these days. I’m being silly, it costs nothing to simply lie about the wattage, and of course make no mention of of the actual luminous output
@@wtmayhew lol so true 😂
Looked like a neat little enclosure. I was most surprised the front panel was real glass! I bet if there was a non-destructive way to open it up, it could be fun to zigzag some LED strips in there to make a cool little low voltage wash light, or maybe a strobe.
Maybe a proper heat gun and patience would do the trick, though the case might dissipate heat too quickly. Maybe using an oven? The glue might not react to heat before the innards let the magic smoke out anyway. …If the innards are worth saving, that is. Otherwise, crank that oven up. :)
It's a silicone style glue. It didn't let go with heat.
It may not be non-destructive opening it this way, but there's nothing to stop you from doing just what you say, then resealing it any number of effective ways... Get on it!
IDK what, if any, type of solvent can weaken the glue. However, regardless of how weak or strong the glue is, one could attempt to introduce a fluid (gas is easier, liquid is safer) through the power cable opening at sufficient pressure to force the glass off. Probably still break it, but prying was going to do that anyway.
A polycarbonate lens might be less breakable than glass, but that is probably asking too much from China, Inc.
This brings me back. The first videos of yours I watched were early cheap 10w LED floods from eBay … it’s been 11 years now
The linear regulators are inadequately cooled, because the power consumption fell, after it had been switched on for a few seconds, which is indicative over-temperature protection circuitry being triggered.
Blue wire to L and Brown wire to N. Fantastic!
...not to forget: yellow earth in the air....
I like the fact that the casing has the pillars for the screws and the LEDs have the holes for the screws, and they line up, but they just used glue instead to save costs on screws. SCREWS!
I’m actually OK with the glue. The adhesive is probably fine, and this product was never intended to be serviced, so might as well glue it and save a few pennies. Where it fails is not providing a water tight gland for the cable and not providing a screw for the earth wire.
Pretty sure my local hardware store charges more for a set of four screws than this entire product would cost from Temu.
And i was thinking... Wow...glue - no expense spared!!
I bought a too cheap leaf collector and it kept on falling apart. Now I have reworked it four times and it works. Replaced aluminium rivets by steel bolts, and so on. I also turned some things in the freewheel so that it is no longer one wheel drive. Not much money spent to make a better product. Most reviews were bad and one said that it wasn’t that heavy to carry to the waste dump.
Probably also less likely to break. The pillars for the screws did look rather short therefore any screw going into them would risk either being largely ineffectual or just breaking the pillar. In this instance I suspect that while not repairable, the glue was probably the best choice given the case.
I love that all the components have the same reference. Very useful.
They been the same part tho..lazy chinese folks 😂
makes you wonder how they lay out their PCB's, cause most EDA packages won't let you assign the same designator, or will change the designator when you copy & paste. Also loved the inverted L & N wire colors (not that it really matters for this circuit)
@@jordanwaeles at least Altium will let you name them the same..but it will complain when you run any DRC, which you can just ignore. Guess other software will do the same
exactly. @@jordanwaeles
same reference != same part. If you want yo revise this and change a value, how do you specify which? "The rightmost R1"? (whose right?) @@bastelwastel8551
Hi Clive,
You missed pointing out with the lose fitting wires that it is rated IP66 (a rating for electrical enclosures that can protect against powerful water jets up to 1 m of submersion). Possibly IP60.
40W, no Ground to earth, and wrong IP rating.
"This is going to get bright" - You could have given us more warning!!!! Almost blinded me !
Hey Clive. Have you looked at the 100W lightning, micro, usb-c cables yet? Some have the chip and led others do not. I have a variety of them and none of them will even fast charge.
Many USB charged products do not have the resistors required to indicate what they are, so sometimes smart chargers will not even put out power. It's a bit of a non standardised minefield at the moment.
Then you probably dont have a charger that suports your required standard for fast charging. Most cables wil fast charge to 65w
This comment reminded me that it took me a ridiculously long time to realize it was "big Clive" and not "big C live"...
I have a proven Samsung USB C charger and just got 2 new s23s with no charger in the box but there was a C to C cable. BOTH cables throw a USB charging, please check your cables....etc. So I decided, for jokes really, to try these C to micro, lightning, and C cables with a nice clear window on the end, a stellar blue LED with 100W printed and a sweet looking chip in the window... these cables wony fast charge, but, at least they don't throw a USB charging error.
I'm no longer DuBEuS....I have fully turned to the dork side. I am all that remains.
Another great video, Clive! Thank you... and a big congrats on crossing that magical 1 Million subscriber mark! WOW! ❤
I just heard it twice, and I'm now forced to interrogate my memory...
"Has Clive always been saying *_'Cink Palculator'_* and I just haven't been paying attention?!"
I said it accidentally once and it stuck.
@@bigclivedotcomOr was it maybe a smelling pistake? 😂😂
Nice video! Thanks for confirming what we all suspected about Temu products. I say treat yourself to a new DMM :)
The MOV being "protected" is actually a bit better than expected. I was not expecting one at all, much less a properly placed one.
its so unusual I wonder if its even real.
Atleast they used Copper coated aluminum. I've seen Copper coated plastic wires (it melted at about 260c). I was shacked that that was used as a mains cable for 230v
Surprised they also used 3 wires when the earth was not connected, 50% more expensive for nothing ... unless they want you to believe it's grounded, but I'd assume people fooled by these ratings with wires so thin would not know or care about grounding.
edit : and even the ground connector inside the case, where no one would even see it ? looks like someone at some point designed it somewhat correctly, and someone else screwed it up later.
@@pbe6965 The earth wire even has a lug crimped on. They could have saved a penny and left omitted the lug.
@@wtmayhew yep, I wasn't sure about the translation so I used "connector" instead of "lug".
That part at least was almost done correctly, if only they tapped the case and add the missing screw.
Or they could have omitted it and saved a few pennies as you said.
I'm surprised they went "so far", and didn't commit in the end, either go all the way or remove it entirely.
@@pbe6965 Thanks for the reply. My reply wasn’t a criticism of your wording. Your comment is fine.
@@wtmayhew I didn't take it as criticism ;)
english is not my mother tongue, I intended to thank you for confirming that "lug" was correct in this context but it ended being lost in a reformulation of my message.
Not only is it 100W and IP65 rated, it probably also is flicker free with a peak 100mV ripple noise a power factor of at least 94% and virtually zero feedback into the mains line.. also you can maintain every part with ease. What a brilliant product !
Ease? The bloody things are siliconed shut...
Given your user name @@sarkybugger5009 I would have though you'd recognise sarcasm when you saw it!
Thanks for your time in showing us this unit. I often wonder what a real 100 watt light would look like, it is often thought by me that they must express that the light output is equivalent to a 100 watt halogen or such. Those liars!
I grew tired of Chinese led lights lying about their specs, so I built my own 100w dual cob light some years ago. Can't remember the exact output in lumens, but it was seriously bright, and had an actual power consumption of a little over 100w.
What a clever design! When one of the LED plates goes open, the second one gets double the current, and the light "just works" as if nothing happened :D
@2:00 - reminds me of a time where I didn't "put this back" and wanted to test the new 220v outlet for my generator at home.
I went to test that I had 220v across the hot leads and BANG! Tripped the whole house breaker. The flashlight on the floor of the garage was the only light visible.
I remember thinking to myself that I thought the light at the end of the tunnel would be brighter.
Found about a 1/4" (about 7mm for those who don't speak freedom units) of one of the leads was missing.
The fuse in the meter did it's job as did the main breaker of the house.
Glad I was wearing eye protection when I was doing the work.
I now remember to always put my thingy back where it belongs when I am done with it.
Technicians: Let's invent a light source that uses less watts.
Consumers: Let's buy the highest wattage of that.
Too be fair most laymen don't understand units. Thinking Wats or voltage for lumines
@@mdb45424it's completely understandable. Every time you buy a bulb, they give the wattage and compare it to the incandescent bulb equivalent. People therefore equate Watts to lumens
The goal, of course, is to create a device that illuminates and only kind of acts like a space heater, instead of incandescent lights, space heaters that only kind of act like lights
@@KurtRichterCISSP I'm always amazed at LEDs being able to draw half the power and put out 3x the light of incandescent, and from a dark yellow sodium colored light to full white daylight.
What a beautifully disposable product
Yup, I saw a 5000W LED Shoplight on Amazon once. I kinda wanted to buy it just so I could return it as fake. Can you imagine how much light 5,000 Watts of LED's would produce?
How much was the world's brightest flashlight?
@@thewhitefalcon8539It would last all of 0.5 seconds as a flashlight from a portable battery!
that would light up a worksite nicely
@@denisrhodes54 as it melted
@@thewhitefalcon8539 I don't remember, and it was all powered by DC, so I'm sure it calculates a little different.
With "copper coated aluminium wire" there's bound to be some schmoke sooner or later.
Also, with 72 LEDs in series, if one dies, that entire chip is d.e.d !!!
Great Viodeo, thanks Clive!😀
If one dies it may track across internally, causing the LED module to flicker until it finally burns clear.
*When one dies
White LEDs are generally Blue LEDs covered with yellow phosphor. Blue LEDs are InGaN, and have no bond wires in the actual LED construction. InGaN LEDs tend to short circuit when they fail catastrophically. So, unless there is physical damage and an LED is mechanically broken, the dominant failure mode is short circuit, to the rest will stay on.
Hi Clive. Is it the case that this could have been a good little unit if a little more money and electrical safety were involved? Just curious.
As a 30W unit, and with a working earth wire, and better quality longer cord, it seems like it would be fine?
Just connecting the earth wire internally would have made it an interesting light.
I wonder if it means 100w by way of "100w incandescent equivalent" in terms of light output.
I love floodlight related video including the cheap looking one like this .
They almost got the grounding done. Ground wire properly terminated with crimped connector. Hole for a screw right next to it.
They stopped at screwing it in.
Perhaps a sudden shortage of screws? Last minute cost cutting?
Good job! They've now removed this range of lights.
Oh shit! So they have!
To be rebadged at 200W I expect.
I wonder if this is intended as 100w equivalent, it has the same energy saving phrase as most lightbulbs these days. Found a Philips bulb that shows 2.3w = 40w on the box, but it's labelled 40w on Amazon. Obviously if it's equivalent they've managed some extreme inefficiency, seems most 100w equivalent lightbulbs sit at around 13w.
They measure the light in lumen.
A 100W incandescent light bulb is 1600 lumens.
If this lamp measures 1600 lumens, it is spot on.
I wonder if this 100W isn't how powerful the standard lightbulb should be to match the brightness of this floodlight, while the actual power demand of this light is way smaller because it's LED. It was typical for LED lightsources sometime ago, and this floodlight doesn't even look as bright as a classic 100W lightbulb, at least on camera.
Finest Chinesium. Love the floating earth wire!
Correct me if I am wrong but doesn't that 100w rating mean that it's the light output equivalent and not that it uses 100 watts? I did not see you using a lux meter to test it's lumens. All you did was test it's power draw.
LED replacements for incandescent bulbs sometimes have a label like that to give context for how bright they will be, but LED lights of this style are typically rated by the actual output, which can't be any higher than the input draw.
Hard to tell, but it did look about as bright as a 100W incandescent bulb. It would be interesting to know the lumens. Drawing 37 watts for that level of brightness is unimpressive.
@@Kevin-mp5of Do you go around the Internet looking for grammatical errors? Nobody said "it's" or "its" either. So your comment is pointless on multiple fronts. Congratulations.
@@Kevin-mp5of more like off topic and nobody cares
@@Kevin-mp5of Grammar Gestapo identified.
I wish you'd try and pry the modules off the housing.
Looks to me like they are only attached along the edges, not really on the backsides of each module. Wonder how bad the thermal would be.
I did. There was a bead of silicone along the edge and a matrix of heatsink compound underneath.
I've spent a lot on Temu and had amazing deals but avoid mains equipment other than soldering irons which I usually modify to bring up to standard.
Great video. Thanks again Clive 😊
They don't connect the Earth wire because usually there are live components in contact with the case and it will often go bang !
They realised that they can get away with shoddy design and workmanship if they don't make it safe ! They feel the Earth connection is more trouble for them but they want it to appear to be up to standard, to the Chinese appearance is most important, safety is optional !
Another superior product review. The doomsayer in me would love to know the voltage across the ceramic cap on the output of the bridge.
In the UK, peaking at about 340V. Some tiny caps are rated for that by having an internal configuration of multiple capacitors in series. But it's a bit squirmy.
@@bigclivedotcom Ho, ho. I'll add squirmy to my repertoire. I did a rough calc and I think the resistive dropper should be roughly 330 ohm to drop enough to allow roughly 30W to be consumed, but a multimeter is always more accurate. Oh, to be a fly on your wall, or maybe not!
After the front falls off, isn't it common practice to tow it from the environment? Celotape for the fix maybe? - Thanks as always for the content Clive!
I noticed the live and neutral wires are connected backwards on the PCB, but as you connected it correctly according to the colours when powering, I'm guessing the screen print is incorrect (or it's a generic PCB that can be configured in reverse polarity). Lucky it was assembled correctly at the factory to begin with, in that case.
I do Amazon Vine reviews and one of the things that I test on light modules and power supplies is whether they live up to the ad's wattage claims and whether they have a ground... I have found that sometimes it doesn't appear that they have a ground, but it is because of a non-conductive layer on the surface of the housing. Best way to test that is just to put the two probes of your multimeter on the housing and measure the resistance across it. If very large, then it has a coating on it and you might need to use the sharpened tips of your probe to get through the coating. Once you can show continuity across the case, use one of those points (where you've gone through the coating) to check continuity to the ground wire.
With many of the lights, they make ridiculous lumen claims because they figure that most people do not have the equipment / setup to properly measure lumens. Meters for measuring lux are fairly cheap and the measurements are easy to make... As such, the sellers do not list a lux claim since it would be easy to verify (i.e. call them out for their blatant lies)... What I *can* test though is their wattage claims... If they say "100W", it sure as 'ell better BE pretty close to 100W or rating will go down... If they want to say that it is the equivalent of a 100W incandescent bulb, then they better say something like, "100W equiv" or their rating will go down... For power supplies, I measure the amperage and voltage going into the power supply and the amperage and voltage coming out of it... I use a piece of coiled NiChrome wire (salvaged from an electric clothes dryer) as a load resistor, varying the amperage by changing where I clip into the coiled section of NiChrome wire.
I have found some acceptable things on Temu, but I've found a lot of crap there also... Same goes for AliExpress and Amazon for that matter...
Would that 100w kind of imply what we would look at as the brightness of a 100 watt bulb? Being LED of course it won't be drawing that, which is a plus. In other words, we would like the lumens of a 100w incandescent but the current of an led which is much lower. Am I missing something?
Of course the 100w refers to it chucking out the equivalent light output of a 100w incandescent light bulb. I have a 60w equivalent led lamp at home which only uses 12w of power 😉😉
Well, that would mean that 100W equivalent would need 20W LED. The 38W measured would more be like 190W equivalent. Why haven't they advertised 200W then?
nah. they will have a little disclaimer at the bottom with the finest text saying: "100W is just a product code. It doesn't mean it can output 100 Watts."
@@SodaWithoutSparkles Sounds about right!
So much for LED being good then as 60w equivalent CFL's have been available for decades that only use 11w of power... I'd get a new LED lamp as Philips do 60w equivalent LED filament lamps that only use about 4w lol.
@@FrontSideBus CFLs contain mercury vapour, which is a hazardous material. This makes their construction a lot more daunting and expensive than constructing LEDs, which are pretty easy to make. They also require more complicated driver circuitry; an LED only requires a constant current power supply, while a CFL requires a ballast (magnetic or electronic) to pass high voltage and get the heated contacts working before it can strike. So yes, LEDs are good, even if they don't outperform CFLs in brightness.
100W? Could that be perhaps, a suggestion that the light output is meant to be equal to a 100W tungsten bulb 💡? Harking back to the days (well, a couple of years) when lamps (bulbs) used to carry that little tungsten equivalence rating on the packet?
Yes, apparently that's how they quote the light output now as "equivalent" to a certain power of incandescent tungsten filament light rather than the actual input power to the led device. I makes it very difficult to actually select a good high-efficiency lamp now.
Almost as good a rating system as the 1,000,000mAh battery bank I found the other day, that was the size of my thumb.
I wonder at what point their rated value will exceed the point at which it should collapse into a black hole?
They should just start using femtoamphours if big numbers is the only need.
@@benbaselet2026They get the capitalization wrong plenty of times too. It always amuses me to see a battery capacity expressed in Mega Amp Henries.
can it be used to power a Tesla car?
@@esecallum It's not hard to "power" a lithium fire. Generally you just need to wait for the power pack to become pierced and it happens all on its own.
@@ConstantlyDamaged can the 1000000 mah power a tesla car?
Is it too early to wish you a Merry Christmas? I think no. To my fave electrical master I wish you and your partner a fabulouso Christmas and an even better New Year. All our love Alex and Andy xxx.
No partner. Just me.
@@bigclivedotcom didn’t know but love you for the fun and the work you do. I still remember the Alzheimer’s video you did. I often think about it. My dad had severe Alzheimer’s and Parkinson’s well before it was diagnosed. Keep pulling everything apart. It’s really enjoyable. Again merry Christmas and looking forward to 2024
TBH I read 100watt as equivalent to a 100watt incandescent bulb, which is 1600 lumens. This is quite common now when you go to buy lightbulbs at any US store. So assuming it's actually safe, I wouldn't want to return as long as it produces enough lumens.
Could the 100w be the incandescent equivalent in terms of brightness?
There are rules for this > regulation (EU) 2019/2020, which is also still "adopted" by the UK
Look the case had no leakage from the live wire, which is just about as good as you can expect from temu, and it almost did half of what you paid for so i'd call this a win.
You're the only one I can think to ask this specific question. Would you trust a reptile UVB lamp for personal use to raise vitamin D? Is there a risk of UVC light being emitted? It's a mercury vapor 160watt bulb. Plan to use sparingly in the winter
UVB carries hazards too. I'd suggest a simple vitamin D supplement.
Back in 2015 -ish I was still able to get a refrund from an Alibaba seller, of a floodlight sold as 50W. It had a measured wattage around 30, and it had a driver labeled as 35W inside. IDK if they removed the labels since, probably 99% of customers wouldnt bother (or dare) to check. It also had the ground wire loose, even though there was threaded connecting point. At least they were easier to disasassemble back then 😅
I'm curious if the 100W is meant as in"equivalent to a 100w incandescent bulb"
37W was more than I expected TBH
It quickly dropped after he had turned it on. At 1:51 it was already below 33W so I guess it would settle at around 30W.
In my experience, it's always the power board that they cheap out on. I wouldn't be at all surprised if they paired their 30W PSU with a pair of 50W COB's, but as you can't get the bugger open to replace the drivers, it's all a bit academic.
Aluminum was never meant to be used in an electrical system . In America , some " genius " decided it would be more cost effective to wire homes with this product and many died as a result of heat buildup in the aluminum wire system and fire resulted and homes destroyed . Cutting corners in anything , when proper investigation is done and known problems exist , is the wrong way to do business with anything . But alas....those who wish to get rich the quick way disregard anything and move forward regardless of danger to life . Clive , this is the world we live in and one must be on guard . Thanks for your work in exposing many frauds that make it to the market place . Salute...as I sip my Sauvignon . :O)
It's still used in power distribution to deter copper theft. But with suitable pastes at the terminations.
Hahahaha my favorite part is the 100W light says 30W on the circuit board....
I wonder if there is a way for measurement (how ever ridiculous) that can say that it's 100 watt.
I've bought 12v 30w "cob" leds on amazon that ended up being 24v 100w and to be honest I've driven them at 28v and drawn about 150w a pop and as long as you keep them cold they keep on chuffing away. And if you ever question the power output its "its based on how bright they are compared to halogen lights , its the same light as a 100w halogen" , I have one cob here that's rated at 100w which was expensive enough at 14 euro , yea I can drive it to 300w no problem with a heat sink and fan. I don't believe the ratings on them at all , its more like their safe rating.
Is it 100W actual or equivalent?
By that I mean LED bulbs typically have 2 wattage ratings listed on their packaging...the Incandescent Wattage it's light output is equivalent to and the Wattage it actually draws...in Canada, most 100 Watt equivalent LED bulbs actually draw around 13-15 Watts so you get the same amount of illumination as a 100W Incandescent bulb while using less than a fifth of the power...
Used to be the Chinesium ratings were 50% the actual but nowadays it's getting to be way under 25% so this one at over 35% is better than most.
this is Chynflation, numbers get lower and lower
Hey just wondered the test for leakage, where did you place the leads?
From the bracket bolt to a grounded surface.
Yes, the Temu stuff can be a bit dodgy. I reviewed one of their "body camera" thingies. The build quality was pretty darned good. The image sharpness was pretty good. It was 1080P which was pretty good. I bought it as 4K though and it does have a 4K setting. The exposures were way off and could not be corrected. I wonder whether it's hackable...
th-cam.com/video/Bcyz6OleLgY/w-d-xo.html
No comment on the PCB's component numbering scheme?😁
They can't even claim it's an equivalent wattage, because otherwise this would have been rated 264W 🤣 so bad
Oh you silly westerner, the 100 W is just a model number, not to be confused with Watts at all ;-)
@@benbaselet2026 for more information, reread
You are the quickest man with a dremel, the back of in one moment.
Temus 64% off sale wasn’t just price, but also watts. So really, it’s a bargain.
I just love the L and N colors mismatched as well as all the component designators being same. Finest of Chinese lowend engineering!
I would like to see you overdrive those leds to rated output wattage.
Anyone else notice the live and neutral are the wrong way around at 4:39?
Good to see they got the live and neutral connections the wrong way round, to the board.
Do you think they meant that the 37 watt floodlight had the equivalent lumens to a 100 watt incandescent floodlight?
I think that could be the case
5:47 The _Kink Palculator_ ? Am I heard that? 🙃😅
Did you notice that they'd soldered the L and N wires the wrong way round on the circuit board?
Interesting. I think it just confirmed what most of us thought as soon as we saw it 😳. I wonder what it’s actual lumen/ watt output is, it’s going to be loosing as much power as heat through those two R30 resistors as the light. I dare bet those will burn out in no time at all carrying 30w
Those studs are possibly points for ejection pins in the mold
Could you not heat up the glass to help soften the adhesive? Would help the teardown be a little less destructive at least.
It's silicone and the lights run hot, so hot-melt glue would be short lived.
Where live and neutral swapped, with the earth that could touch the case?
With that dubious earthing, it amused me that there is an irregular ECG readout on the front. 😅
💚🐇🐴💚
You could add filters over the LEDs to create a 'Mysteron' look!
Awesome Video Big Clive 😊
Only way I managed to disassemble light like that is to use that super thin spudger advertised for curved phone screens. It's really useful for many things. I normaly just squeeze some alcohol around wait few sec and just slap that spudger inside and move around.
It's silicone, so not easy to remove.
10.0 watt and the decimal didn't silk screen properly?
to 10nF cap is to damp oscillations in the LCRs, it is part of the negative feedback path, theyre amplifiers.
They're just linear current regulators.