Cellulose fibre like Cotton needs to be scoured very well before mordanting for plant dyeing. Also when you have mordanted squeeze only and do not rinse the fabric… it should then be dried in the sun till completely dry. After this it can be dunged with either wheat bran or Calcium Carbonate ( chalk), this process helps the mordant stay bound to the fabric and once the dunging process is done, rinse well and then the fabric is ready to dye.
Thoroughly enjoyed watching this process. Your surroundings are beautiful too. Loved seeing the mountains in this he background and hearing nature sounds. Very soothing 🥰
Years ago when I studied textiles, we'd first cook the dye material in a large pot, having 4 pots on the go. Then add a different mordant to each pot, and then add yarn or textile to each pot. It was wonderful to see the different colour produced by each mordant. We'd use alum, tin, iron, and I can't remember the 4th one. I have to check my ancient binder of notes from college, lol.
@@karenramstedt4614 Ahhh...82. My year of birth! I'm always telling my girls how things were different "in my day" and before. 😊Thanks for sharing that information. I've worked with tin only once, and I was adding it to turmeric dye. If I recall correctly, the dye turned an interesting pinkish-orange color. This was done with no heat. Actually, most of my experiments with different mordants were done with turmeric. I really liked the outcomes.
Nice video! I have found with some plant dyes like avocado skins/pits that the dye is more color fast if the fabric is dried without rinsing first. It seems like the dye has to "cure" in the fabric for it to stay. But maybe what's happening is more like a stain that gets set in and resists washing out. I also find that using equal(by weight) dye stuff to fabric or more will produce a deeper color. I have tried hibiscus flowers in their dried form and that seems to give a deeper color. I love the results you had with your bundles!! I will try that next time for sure.
I have unintentionally done that as well: "cure" the fabric with avocado pit dye and some others, and I've thought about what you mentioned about staining. I do think there's something to that, and I should experiment more in that area. Now, I've been struggling to get my dried and powdered hibiscus to work on fabric the way the fresh flowers work, but I need to try just using dried petals. I really like working with hibiscus! Thanks for this comment. I'm going to be thinking more about what you've said.
@webitatii7214 I'd never heard of this before now. From what I've read so far, seems like it has a lot going for itself. I wouldn't be surprised if it has benefits useful for textile dyeing, whether it be colorfastness, helping get color into fibers, or changing the color of dye. I'm learning that various salts can be helpful to natural dye in different ways. Thanks for sharing!
Thank You for the great Video!! I heard hot Air fixates natural 'Stains' into the Fabric and makes them more difficult to remove, so maybe You could try Ironing the Fabric, put it into a Dryer or Oven at different Temperatures and Durations, maybe that has a positive Effect. :)
That's a great suggestion! I rarely do iron or machine dry dyed textiles, but I have ironed some of my eco-printed fabrics with the hopes that the process would help the color stay. It actually does seem to help. I should do that more. Thanks for watching and commenting!
Yes, there is! I actually live in Hawai'i which has a strong Asian influence, and this is the case even more so in my neighborhood. Our home was built/owned by a Japanese elder. Many of the structures around and in the house still reflect Japanese and Buddhist culture. It's a wonderful place, and I'm grateful! Thank you so much for watching.🙂
Beautiful surroundings, aesthetically pleasing production. Learn't nothing of using epson salt as a mordant / ''plant dye for textiles', the title that lured me to watching the channel.
If I"m understanding correctly, you're saying you use this as an alternative to alum. Nice! I want to experiment with it some more, but I do like the outcome I got with it.
I've heard of using table salt- sodium chloride- to help hold the color, too. Has anyone experimented with using cucumber skins or lamp black when dying for a black color?
@@tinnaz1 I haven't tried either and hadn't heard of cucumber skins producing black. I'm definitely willing to try that! Also never heard of lamp black until researching it just now. I've got charcoal powder, but it seems to be different from that. I'll look more into it. Thanks!
I forgot to comment about salt. From what I've read and experimented with, table salt can be used to help the dye particles transfer from the dye bath to the fabric, yet it doesn't function as a means of fixing the dye to the fabric. I've put it in dye here and there with no results of it helping the fabric hold color, but I'm actually currently doing an intentional experiment with this process to better understand how it works as an aide for natural dyes.
@@plantdyefortextiles Thank you for your kind replies. I have very little experience with these things actually. I ran across the black dye options while doing some research a few years ago. I have boiled cucumber skin and it did produce a nice dark color which was surprising. When I heard about lamp black I had to look into it. I realized I had washed it off my pots and pans for years. The best results were from camping or cooking outdoors on a fire pit. Lately, I've been watching how to gather and process fibers. It's all very interesting!
@@tinnaz1 oh, that info. gives me a bit more insight into lamp black. I'm sure I've encountered many times! The dark color from cucumber skin is so intriguing. I probably wouldn't have considered that. All of this and the seemingly endless possibilities is definitely very interesting! And you're very welcome. :)
Those are fibers I don't work with, but it seems like Epsom salt functions similarly to alum powder when used as a mordant. I know people use alum for wool and silk. So, I think it would work.
Thank you! For alum, I've read about people using anywhere from 5-20% weight of fiber for 100 grams. I usually do 10%, so for 50g of fiber, I'd do 5% of alum and the same for the salt. Sometimes I'll just go with .5 to 1 teaspoon. It seems to work well, especially when combined with tannic acid of some sort.
Thank you! All of the commercial alum that I've purchased and used has been white. A quick search brought up a couple brands being sold online that are tan. It may have something to do with production. I know that when I make aluminum acetate (different from the alum we're talking about th-cam.com/video/Nju4mQy3MvM/w-d-xo.html), it can come out tan/brown if I heat it too long. As far as I've been able to tell, it still functions the same.
@@tabithajones108 no problem! I was curious when you mentioned it, since I've never seen tan alum. However, I do only buy mine in 1 or 2 different grocery stores here where I live. It was interesting to see it in a different color.
Alum is not the proper mordant for cellulose fibers. Alum can be used for protein fibers, but not cellulose. You need AA or some newer mordants now available.
Thanks for your comment! I made a video a while back about aluminum acetate (if that's what you're referring to: th-cam.com/video/Nju4mQy3MvM/w-d-xo.html .) I've definitely found it to be more effective when I do decide to use mordant--which honestly isn't all the time for my experimentations with color. Alum is talked about so heavily in most books and a lot of videos, and I've read only one or two remarks in my research that AA + tannin is a better combo for cellulose. I just researched and learned about aluminum triformate. Very interesting.
You can use alum for cellulose like cotton and paper ...its fine. I literally soent the day doing plant dyes with alum modenting some and iron oxide on others ....and no mordant..... the alum ones were slightly darker than the non mordented ones and the iron oxide the darkest but it sure did something. Aluminum will adhere to cellulose just fine. Why do you think it doesnt work?
@@serendipidus8482 Although I've had better results combining alum or aluminum acetate and tannin, I have also personally experienced good results with alum only. In my readings I've seen this mentioned about alum a few times, and it's been stated that, when used alone, alum isn't the *best* option for cellulose fibers in terms of color retention over time (something I'm not always concerned with in my experimentation). . But it'll work ro some extent, for sure. I like your approach of trying various methods. That'll give you some good info.
@@plantdyefortextiles yes time will tell. I have some really nice vibrant colours all very earthy.. im going to get some more tannin rich things I have walnut shells bit ive no way to crush them. Im trying to get a dark blacky brown. Somone said elder bark but ive got a few jars of various mixtures vinegar and magnesium and iron and plain and old bark and new bark and its not doing anything except a vague khaki. Any idea for a good dark blacky brown or even greyish black? Thanks! We really need to keep all this alive!
Cellulose fibre like Cotton needs to be scoured very well before mordanting for plant dyeing. Also when you have mordanted squeeze only and do not rinse the fabric… it should then be dried in the sun till completely dry.
After this it can be dunged with either wheat bran or Calcium Carbonate ( chalk), this process helps the mordant stay bound to the fabric and once the dunging process is done, rinse well and then the fabric is ready to dye.
Thank you for that in-depth explanation! I appreciate it, and I'm sure it can be useful to others reading these comments.
Thoroughly enjoyed watching this process. Your surroundings are beautiful too. Loved seeing the mountains in this he background and hearing nature sounds. Very soothing 🥰
Thank you so very much!
This is great! Thanks for sharing it. I'd never though of using Epsom salts.
Thanks so much for watching!
Years ago when I studied textiles, we'd first cook the dye material in a large pot, having 4 pots on the go. Then add a different mordant to each pot, and then add yarn or textile to each pot. It was wonderful to see the different colour produced by each mordant. We'd use alum, tin, iron, and I can't remember the 4th one. I have to check my ancient binder of notes from college, lol.
Tin??? This is toxic....😡
@@fanthazara It was 1982. I'm sure it wouldn't be used now.
@@karenramstedt4614 ohhh, ok🤔👍
@@karenramstedt4614 Ahhh...82. My year of birth! I'm always telling my girls how things were different "in my day" and before. 😊Thanks for sharing that information. I've worked with tin only once, and I was adding it to turmeric dye. If I recall correctly, the dye turned an interesting pinkish-orange color. This was done with no heat. Actually, most of my experiments with different mordants were done with turmeric. I really liked the outcomes.
@@plantdyefortextiles I was only 23, and I thought I was an oooooold student. Isn't perception a funny thing.
Nice video! I have found with some plant dyes like avocado skins/pits that the dye is more color fast if the fabric is dried without rinsing first. It seems like the dye has to "cure" in the fabric for it to stay. But maybe what's happening is more like a stain that gets set in and resists washing out. I also find that using equal(by weight) dye stuff to fabric or more will produce a deeper color. I have tried hibiscus flowers in their dried form and that seems to give a deeper color. I love the results you had with your bundles!! I will try that next time for sure.
I have unintentionally done that as well: "cure" the fabric with avocado pit dye and some others, and I've thought about what you mentioned about staining. I do think there's something to that, and I should experiment more in that area. Now, I've been struggling to get my dried and powdered hibiscus to work on fabric the way the fresh flowers work, but I need to try just using dried petals. I really like working with hibiscus! Thanks for this comment. I'm going to be thinking more about what you've said.
Thank you. Great to watch and learn.
@@EdManner you're welcome, and thanks for watching!
how about Nigari salt (Magnesium Chloride) ?
@webitatii7214 I'd never heard of this before now. From what I've read so far, seems like it has a lot going for itself. I wouldn't be surprised if it has benefits useful for textile dyeing, whether it be colorfastness, helping get color into fibers, or changing the color of dye. I'm learning that various salts can be helpful to natural dye in different ways. Thanks for sharing!
Thank you so much. Valuable information!❤
You're welcome!
Awesome. Thank you for sharing
You're welcome!
Thank You for the great Video!!
I heard hot Air fixates natural 'Stains' into the Fabric and makes them more difficult to remove, so maybe You could try Ironing the Fabric, put it into a Dryer or Oven at different Temperatures and Durations, maybe that has a positive Effect. :)
That's a great suggestion! I rarely do iron or machine dry dyed textiles, but I have ironed some of my eco-printed fabrics with the hopes that the process would help the color stay. It actually does seem to help. I should do that more. Thanks for watching and commenting!
Beautiful landscape! Are you in Asia? It looks like there is a Buddhist temple in the far right background.
Yes, there is! I actually live in Hawai'i which has a strong Asian influence, and this is the case even more so in my neighborhood. Our home was built/owned by a Japanese elder. Many of the structures around and in the house still reflect Japanese and Buddhist culture. It's a wonderful place, and I'm grateful! Thank you so much for watching.🙂
are you on the Big Island?@@plantdyefortextiles
I also thought you were in Southeast Asia. Thansk for enhancing our lives
Beautiful surroundings, aesthetically pleasing production.
Learn't nothing of using epson salt as a mordant / ''plant dye for textiles', the title that lured me to watching the channel.
Thanks for watching/giving feedback!
what ı use alum alternative
If I"m understanding correctly, you're saying you use this as an alternative to alum. Nice! I want to experiment with it some more, but I do like the outcome I got with it.
I've heard of using table salt- sodium chloride- to help hold the color, too.
Has anyone experimented with using cucumber skins or lamp black when dying for a black color?
@@tinnaz1 I haven't tried either and hadn't heard of cucumber skins producing black. I'm definitely willing to try that! Also never heard of lamp black until researching it just now. I've got charcoal powder, but it seems to be different from that. I'll look more into it. Thanks!
I forgot to comment about salt. From what I've read and experimented with, table salt can be used to help the dye particles transfer from the dye bath to the fabric, yet it doesn't function as a means of fixing the dye to the fabric. I've put it in dye here and there with no results of it helping the fabric hold color, but I'm actually currently doing an intentional experiment with this process to better understand how it works as an aide for natural dyes.
@@plantdyefortextiles Thank you for your kind replies. I have very little experience with these things actually. I ran across the black dye options while doing some research a few years ago. I have boiled cucumber skin and it did produce a nice dark color which was surprising.
When I heard about lamp black I had to look into it. I realized I had washed it off my pots and pans for years. The best results were from camping or cooking outdoors on a fire pit.
Lately, I've been watching how to gather and process fibers. It's all very interesting!
@@tinnaz1 oh, that info. gives me a bit more insight into lamp black. I'm sure I've encountered many times! The dark color from cucumber skin is so intriguing. I probably wouldn't have considered that. All of this and the seemingly endless possibilities is definitely very interesting! And you're very welcome. :)
Do Epsom salts work with animal fibre like wool or silk?
Those are fibers I don't work with, but it seems like Epsom salt functions similarly to alum powder when used as a mordant. I know people use alum for wool and silk. So, I think it would work.
Thanks for your peaceful and interesting video. How much epsom salt would you use to mordant 50 g of dry fabric, and how long would you let it soak?
Thank you! For alum, I've read about people using anywhere from 5-20% weight of fiber for 100 grams. I usually do 10%, so for 50g of fiber, I'd do 5% of alum and the same for the salt. Sometimes I'll just go with .5 to 1 teaspoon. It seems to work well, especially when combined with tannic acid of some sort.
Thanks!
Great video 👍🏿👍🏿👍🏿👍🏿 also whats the natural color of Alum - I have white ground and a brown/tan 🤔🤔🤔🤔
Thank you! All of the commercial alum that I've purchased and used has been white. A quick search brought up a couple brands being sold online that are tan. It may have something to do with production. I know that when I make aluminum acetate (different from the alum we're talking about th-cam.com/video/Nju4mQy3MvM/w-d-xo.html), it can come out tan/brown if I heat it too long. As far as I've been able to tell, it still functions the same.
@@plantdyefortextiles thank you 🤗🤗. I did a search and info was vague. Anyway thanks again.
@@tabithajones108 no problem! I was curious when you mentioned it, since I've never seen tan alum. However, I do only buy mine in 1 or 2 different grocery stores here where I live. It was interesting to see it in a different color.
@@plantdyefortextiles on the pack it says Wild Alum root powder ( herbs & spices ) 🤔 tan - for the white - I do not remember packaging
I want to try Epsom salt and black beans. Maybe I can get a nice Blue!
Ooooh, now that sounds interesting! I've dyed with black beans, but I didn't see a mordant. I want to try that now!
Alum is not the proper mordant for cellulose fibers. Alum can be used for protein fibers, but not cellulose. You need AA or some newer mordants now available.
Thanks for your comment! I made a video a while back about aluminum acetate (if that's what you're referring to: th-cam.com/video/Nju4mQy3MvM/w-d-xo.html .) I've definitely found it to be more effective when I do decide to use mordant--which honestly isn't all the time for my experimentations with color. Alum is talked about so heavily in most books and a lot of videos, and I've read only one or two remarks in my research that AA + tannin is a better combo for cellulose. I just researched and learned about aluminum triformate. Very interesting.
You can use alum for cellulose like cotton and paper ...its fine. I literally soent the day doing plant dyes with alum modenting some and iron oxide on others ....and no mordant..... the alum ones were slightly darker than the non mordented ones and the iron oxide the darkest but it sure did something. Aluminum will adhere to cellulose just fine. Why do you think it doesnt work?
@@serendipidus8482 Although I've had better results combining alum or aluminum acetate and tannin, I have also personally experienced good results with alum only. In my readings I've seen this mentioned about alum a few times, and it's been stated that, when used alone, alum isn't the *best* option for cellulose fibers in terms of color retention over time (something I'm not always concerned with in my experimentation). . But it'll work ro some extent, for sure. I like your approach of trying various methods. That'll give you some good info.
@@serendipidus8482because it is well known that alum (Pas) is meant for protein fibers.
@@plantdyefortextiles yes time will tell. I have some really nice vibrant colours all very earthy.. im going to get some more tannin rich things I have walnut shells bit ive no way to crush them. Im trying to get a dark blacky brown. Somone said elder bark but ive got a few jars of various mixtures vinegar and magnesium and iron and plain and old bark and new bark and its not doing anything except a vague khaki. Any idea for a good dark blacky brown or even greyish black? Thanks! We really need to keep all this alive!
Copper might be what you were thinking of.
@@LoriSeavey-Christian oh, yes! Copper is another one. Copper, tin, alum, iron, and tin are the five. I do need to try copper sometime. Thank you!
I was axed by..
😉
cute! 😉
I'd be happy to edit that About section for you. 😉😉😉
@plantdyefortextiles
You don't have to do anything for me, that you don't want to Darling. 😏💕
@@CloudSpirals Thanks for the confirmation. You be well, now.