How to repair a Miele Induction Stovetop, Cooktop, Hot Plate, that is popping circuit breakers
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 21 พ.ย. 2024
- This video show the process I went through to fault find and repair a Miele KM5731 (KM5733 would be the same) Induction Stovetop that was popping circuit breakers.
NOTE: This is a 240V device, do not work on this unless you are qualified to do so.
The faulty parts were two power transistors - IXGR40N60C2D1 (about AU$18 for 10 on them).
NOTE: If you purchase these transistors, make sure you purchase the one that are open circuity between the collector and heatsink. Although the heat transfer insulators work, they can give off a burning odour when they get hot.
Additional rectifier to fix my mistake - GBJ2510, Bridge Rectifier, 25A 1000V, 4-Pin (about AU$18 for 15 on them).
Music: www.bensound.com
p.s. for those who care, apologises for missing the ' in that's, just noticed it and it's too much of a pain to fix :).
Nice work - well done, cheap fix for a tidy reward
@@sharkbaitsurfer Thanks 😀
Love the way how you simply hammered the clips back in place on those IGBTs and Rectifiers.
😁,I would recommend using the appropriate spreading tool if you have one, but who has one 😂. Unfortunately I was one of the majority, so I went with my practical technical experience, applying the right amount of hammer blow to just get the clips on, ensuring clean contact to minimise vibration through the components to minimise the risk of damage to the components internals. I know that sounds like BS, but it's actually true 👍. That being said, my Engineer hat was bugging me to buy a tool 😔.
@@aussieknowhow
Your hammering is an inspiration for me.
Years ago I didn’t know hammer works so I cut those leads off the IGBT, pry the clip and let the IGBT loose, insert a new IGBT with short leads, then solder the leads up.
It didn’t work.
Your hammering inspired me to relook at my failed attempt.
This time I use a clamp vice and slowly press the clip back in place. It works.
thankyou thankyou... very clear descriptions and great tips. Wish I could subscribe twice!
Thank you, I'm glad it was helpful.👍
Just discovered you. Thank you so much
good video ! I have a question: where did you buy the transistors? I am in australia, and mine Miele cooktop has exactly the same fault.
Hi Spring, I purchased mine off eBay (I'm in Australia as well), but as I mentioned in the comments, the ones I got had exposed heatsinks on the back which required insulators. I don't recommend using them for the reason I mentioned. You're better off finding those transistors that don't have an exposed heatsink, which is what the Meile cooktops are already using. Unfortunately I'm unable to help you with where to get them from as I haven't purchased them yet. I tested the cooktop for a while and once the bad odor started I stopped and haven't got back to it :(. If I find a place I"ll let you know. If you do before I do, please let me know :)
@@aussieknowhow thanks for the quick reply. i had also purchased them from ebay, still waiting for the delivery. for my died transistors, all have exposed heatsink on the back, but i measured them, those metal back is isolated. Once my new parts have arrived, i will measure them to make sure. cheers
@@springweng Thanks, please let me know how you go. If they are insulated, can you please let me (and those reading this) know where you got them from?
@@aussieknowhow Sorry I'm late to the party but my Miele only died a couple of days ago. I followed your great video to pull it apart and found the same fault. Have just ordered parts from Digi-Key in the USA and they are quoting 4 day supply to Oz. Mine uses IXGR48N60C3D1 but the rectifier is the same. Anyway I found an easy way to remove the springy clamps, just insert a thin screwdriver into partially hidden slot on top of clip and lever it using heatsink fin as fulcrum, it just pops out. Hope this helps someone.
@@frankj124 I personally used thin long nose plier, went well!
Great video. Have a similar issue with the stove top. Do you offer repair services in Sydney.
Hi Peter, thanks for your thoughts. I'm actually in Canberra, so unfortunately a bit far from Sydney to do a repair. If you get down this way let me know and I may be able to have a look at it for you. Cheers.
@@aussieknowhow I have a 10 year old 3 element top which blowed a fuse on the weekend. It made an electrical bang when it happened. After resetting the breaker everything came back on however the top shows an error code of 31. Could it be a similar issue? Many thanks.
@@petertodd6386 It could be a similar issue, hearing an electrical bang would normally imply some significant current, so a good chance I think. I just looked up an error 31 and it relates to a power issue. In my case the stove kept popping the circuit breaker when I tried to use it. It's quite possible they added more smarts to the stove tops to protect the breakers from popping and instead contains the error/issue internally to the stove. I assume you hadn't touched the stove in any way, e.g. unplugged it, rewired it, etc, before the error occured?
@@aussieknowhow no...it been in place since new. Appreciate your help and advice. Cheers Pete
Thought I would give an update...found a cockroach between 2 terminals on one of the RGBTs. After testing as demonstrated in your video it was shorted. The other RGBT for the same element was also gone. Also tested the rectifier and it was also shorted as well. Testing the other elements and they seem ok. One additional thing I did find on the power supply board was burn marks under one of the empty fuse holders so will have to insert a 20A fuse I assume. Just need to buy some parts now and see how it goes. Thanks again for your help. Cheers
Could induction stove or cooktop be set or programmed to derate the power in case the thickness of the wires inside the house walls were less than the thickness needed to carry the maximum power ?
I think the simple answer for that is 'no'. The complex answer is that there would be a control circuit and/or processor that controls the power to the plates that may be able to be modified, but you'd need to fully reverse engineer the circuit and would probably still end up at a specifically designed and produced chip you wouldn't be able to alter.
@@aussieknowhow
Thank you for your answer.
Thank you for explanation.
Maybe i shout fix my plate to 👍
Hi, i forgot to take a picture of the connection for the heating induction coils. Does the polarity matter for the coils?
If it was a basic coil it wouldn't matter, but I'm not sure if these ones have anything extra in them that makes it matter. So it would be wise to connect them as original. I may still have photos I took when I did it. I'll have a look and get them to you if I do.
@@aussieknowhowThat would be perfect. thank you
@@VaclavJise I've found some photos from one I did recently that may help, private message me where you'd like me to send them.
@@aussieknowhow For some reason I can´t. But I have found this video, so maybe it will be the same th-cam.com/video/MCJaZrRvgdE/w-d-xo.html
@@aussieknowhow Or maybe if you could upload them here drive.google.com/drive/folders/1JAPSnzqmWl7yXs5swkljY8H5VzVCdATD?usp=sharing just to be sure. I think there is only one way to connect them up becouse of the wires and also from my testing, it seems to be only a coil.
Hi are you located in Canberra? I have a Miele induction cooktop with the same issue? could you check it?
Hi Christian. Unfortunately I can't help you sorry. Although I'm a qualified electronics technician and an electrical/electronic engineer, I'm not a certified electrician, so I can't legally do 240V repairs. To do that would have some significant legal ramifications.
Are you able to help me repair my induction stove?
Hi Agemenon, that's a very broad question :). Can you tell me a bit more about your situation, like what stove you have and what's wrong with it?