This is a great improvment from v1, I like the leds being in the front. One potential improvement for the look would be to have the screws from under, so you would not see them when using the device. Thanks for the sharing, I was looking for such project. best.
Yes, you can add a second encoder. I don’t know off hand if there are enough extra pins on the pro micro. You may need to connect the switch of the encoder into the key matrix to have enough space for the extra encoder wires. You will also need to include a second encoder in the code. That should be as simple as duplicating the existing encoder code with a new name for the encoder you are adding.
@@tinyboatproductions Oh I fixed by Re-suttering the conections to the encoder. in case anyone has the same issue, Make sure the encoder's conections are properly suttered, and in proper temperature as making it to high will make your sutter opaque and have sub-optimal conductivity which may cause this issue. sorry for weird English not very good at it
This is a common question I get. I think its due to the fact that I dont have the encoder hooked to interrupt pins. I think you could attached them to interrupt pins and move the matrix to increase resolution/reliability.
Hi, nice video. I'm trying to make a similar button box with a 5x5 matrix with 19 buttons and 4 encoders with button, do you think I could use your sketch with some changements? Thank you.
I think it would work. However you may run into issues with that many encoders. The encoder can be a bit laggy when not attached to interrupt pins and the pro micro doesn’t have enough to attach all of them. For a button pad that big I would suggest looking at my kmk series. I think an actual keyboard firmware would work better for a more complex project.
@@tinyboatproductions I deleted the led, I don't have them, I deleted the lines about the length of the encoder press because I don't need it and I still don't know if the encoders will work because I connected only the button function, I'll let you know, thank you very much.
I am full beginner, in soldering and programming too, and i have a problem. The schematics in the instructables ( the solder diagram) have diff numbers than my micro pro. ( it contains the pins but diff order.. and diff location) Can someone explain it to me?
When I built it I have the black line on the diode on the bottom, take a look at 3:07, you can kind of see it there. If you have them the other way you should be able to swap the row and column arrays in the code, basically tell the code the diodes are the other way and it should work.
You’ll want to change they line that defines the keypad to: Keypad keypad = Keypad( makeKeymap(keys), rowPins, colPins, ROWS, COLS ); If you compare what I have with what is here, you’ll notice that the rowPins, and colPins arrays are in the opposite order, as well as the ROWS, and COLS.
Hi. Sorry my terrible english ! Very good video ! Thx ! Its possible replace arduino pro to ESP32 or ESP8266 ? And its possible to add more one encoder ?
I think its possible to swap the Pro-Micro for an ESP, I’m not sure exactly how. I have seen some other people use ESPs for macro pads and what not. Also yes, you could add more encoders. I don’t think there are enough pins on the micro but possibly on a ESP, if you go that route.
@@justblairthompson good idea. Definitely looks like something like this would work on an ESP32. www.instructables.com/DIY-Bluetooth-Macro-Keypad/?amp_page=true
Hi! excelent build, i want to try to build this version but i want to know if i can switch the IN4148 diodes with the 100v 1amp diodes instead since i can´t find it anywere in my city? Best regards!
Hi there, it looks like the 1amp diodes should work just fine. There may be a slight difference in response time when pressing a button but I highly doubt it will be noticeable (especially with the non optimized code I wrote). Give it a shot a let us know how it works out!
I don't see any reason that it wouldn't. The biggest change you would need to make would be changing the code from use the control key the command key for a mac.
can you help me , i was make this one last night . and when i plug in to my pc than i play a player media its looped play/plause continously . and i never edit the code progam , i just copy paste . sory if my english bad
Hey im in the middle of creating this project, there are 2 wires that go to a pin (5) yet if you did that it would short circuit. Is there a different pin to put the wires into besides 5?
@@tinyboatproductions i have another question. In the code for the Macropad are there specific libraries that you used? i keep coming up with the error that Keypad cant be found
@@samtelfer7364 Yes I used Keypad.h, Encoder.h, Bounce2.h, and HID-Project.h. The last time I updated the code on my macropad was awhile ago. So if you keep having issues I would suggest downgrading the libraries to a previous version.
can u make one without using a pro micro? i mean ang entire pcb with a microchip. some pcb manufactureres are selling their services for a reasonable price. keep up the good work
@@tinyboatproductions but u can still sell it. yah same. but i think it is easy though. it will fund your future projects atleast. and it will look more organized
Hi bro, I'm a little confused in the soldering area, what do the numbers in the picture mean? Why is it different from pro micro, in pro micro I can't find the numbers 19, 20, 21, etc. Please help me with the soldering
Hi there, I can see the confusion. On the Pro Micro the analog pins can also be used as digital pins, that’s what I have done. I've attached a diagram of the analog/digital pin out. Pins 19-21 are labeled on the board as A1-A3. www.theengineeringprojects.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/12/Introduction-to-Arduino-Pro-Micro-2.png
@@tinyboatproductions i had that confused too, now i understand what the number mean. But i have a problem now hope you can help me out, i got the rotary encoder conected on A3 -SW, A2-DT, A1-CLK but the volume it is not constant, i mean it goes up and down at the same time and very fast, the push button works just fine, the only problem is the volume.
@@pitonlpz this is, I believe, because the encoder is not connected to the interrupt pins. This meaning that some encoder pulses can be missed making the encoder a bit erratic. I think this can be fixed by connecting the encoder pins to interrupt pins on the Arduino and connecting them in the code. I have not done this, so I cannot be of much help unfortunately.
@@tinyboatproductions Thank you, i look for that up on the sparkfun page and in my case worked with this pins //Encoder int SW = 10; int DT = 2; int CLK = 3; Other question, how can i set the code for the encoder to be more precise?
As a customer, the only thing I care about is that it's easy to program withotu software or driver and you show how to do it in a video or text file. I already got burned by buying one that just does "A" and "S" and there is no way to change it. i can't tell you how almost completely useless and annoying it is... Also, as a blind person, even though I have a banging TS100 soldering iron and Kester high quality solder, I don't want to to assemble or solder anytihing because I'm blind. It's not going to happen any more.
This is a great improvment from v1, I like the leds being in the front. One potential improvement for the look would be to have the screws from under, so you would not see them when using the device. Thanks for the sharing, I was looking for such project. best.
Thank you for the 3d Case design.
Awesome stuff. I'm curious what size screws you used?
I used m3 screws for this model, I don’t remember the length off hand, but I would bet between 10 and 12mm long
Bro what is the distance between each keys?
is there a way i could add 2 encoders?
Yes, you can add a second encoder.
I don’t know off hand if there are enough extra pins on the pro micro. You may need to connect the switch of the encoder into the key matrix to have enough space for the extra encoder wires.
You will also need to include a second encoder in the code. That should be as simple as duplicating the existing encoder code with a new name for the encoder you are adding.
i just finished the build but the knob only reduces volume by one then ups it again in the next move to anywhere
That is strange. Are you able to upload an encoder example sketch and get the same behavior?
@@tinyboatproductions Oh I fixed by Re-suttering the conections to the encoder. in case anyone has the same issue, Make sure the encoder's conections are properly suttered, and in proper temperature as making it to high will make your sutter opaque and have sub-optimal conductivity which may cause this issue.
sorry for weird English not very good at it
Awesome! Thanks for the video. Could you make the 4+1 horizontal button version?
You mean a version with 4 keys and the encoder?
@@tinyboatproductions Yes please do that it would be really helpful
@@tinyboatproductions yes please ... thanks ...
Question, how can i set the code for the encoder to be more precise?
This is a common question I get. I think its due to the fact that I dont have the encoder hooked to interrupt pins. I think you could attached them to interrupt pins and move the matrix to increase resolution/reliability.
@@tinyboatproductions Thank you for your response, i will try it in the next project (:
i've finished my build but the only thing that is working is the knob, the buttons do not work, can you help me?
If the knob is working, I think that could mean the issue is with the diodes. Double check their direction and the pins you have them on.
Hi, nice video. I'm trying to make a similar button box with a 5x5 matrix with 19 buttons and 4 encoders with button, do you think I could use your sketch with some changements? Thank you.
I think it would work. However you may run into issues with that many encoders. The encoder can be a bit laggy when not attached to interrupt pins and the pro micro doesn’t have enough to attach all of them. For a button pad that big I would suggest looking at my kmk series. I think an actual keyboard firmware would work better for a more complex project.
@@tinyboatproductions I deleted the led, I don't have them, I deleted the lines about the length of the encoder press because I don't need it and I still don't know if the encoders will work because I connected only the button function, I'll let you know, thank you very much.
I forget to say that all my buttons works correctly and I can program them with macro to be used on PS5 simracing program.
Love it.
I'd love to see this with rgb leds under the switches
can i customise it with vial?
This can be customized from the Arduino IDE,
What keycaps are those? can you link them please?
They are from this set: mechanicalkeyboards.com/shop/index.php?l=product_detail&p=1507
@@tinyboatproductions Vice City build here I come! 🤣
Great and simple project. Do level your bed though
what are the wires that you used?
The wire is from a ribbon cable out of an old computer.
i learn something new today, now i need some cat for the material :)
Still no "0" or "."?!? 😆
Great vid thanks! 😃
I am full beginner, in soldering and programming too, and i have a problem. The schematics in the instructables ( the solder diagram) have diff numbers than my micro pro. ( it contains the pins but diff order.. and diff location) Can someone explain it to me?
Refer to the numbers, the hand drawn micro is not exactly accurate…
@@tinyboatproductions Okay i will solder by the numbers, thanks you very much!
Should the black line on the diode be facing towards the switch or going the other way?
When I built it I have the black line on the diode on the bottom, take a look at 3:07, you can kind of see it there. If you have them the other way you should be able to swap the row and column arrays in the code, basically tell the code the diodes are the other way and it should work.
@@tinyboatproductions ok thank you! Where in the code would I tell it it’s reversed?
You’ll want to change they line that defines the keypad to: Keypad keypad = Keypad( makeKeymap(keys), rowPins, colPins, ROWS, COLS );
If you compare what I have with what is here, you’ll notice that the rowPins, and colPins arrays are in the opposite order, as well as the ROWS, and COLS.
@@tinyboatproductions thank you so much for your help! Cant wait to start using my new Macropad!
@@ethand9715 I want to confirm this worked as I haven’t tested it myself. I also think this would be a good note to add to the instructable.
Hi. Sorry my terrible english ! Very good video ! Thx !
Its possible replace arduino pro to ESP32 or ESP8266 ?
And its possible to add more one encoder ?
I think its possible to swap the Pro-Micro for an ESP, I’m not sure exactly how. I have seen some other people use ESPs for macro pads and what not.
Also yes, you could add more encoders. I don’t think there are enough pins on the micro but possibly on a ESP, if you go that route.
I like the build! Did you make threads for the screws?
I have sized the holes on the base so that the screw can cut threads into it.
Any easy solution to get the Arduino Pro Micro work wireless?
I don't know of any unfortunately.
Port the project to an ESP32 which is cheap and has bluetooth ble built in.
@@justblairthompson good idea. Definitely looks like something like this would work on an ESP32. www.instructables.com/DIY-Bluetooth-Macro-Keypad/?amp_page=true
YOOOO THE KNOBBBBBBB
Hi! excelent build, i want to try to build this version but i want to know if i can switch the IN4148 diodes with the 100v 1amp diodes instead since i can´t find it anywere in my city?
Best regards!
Hi there, it looks like the 1amp diodes should work just fine. There may be a slight difference in response time when pressing a button but I highly doubt it will be noticeable (especially with the non optimized code I wrote).
Give it a shot a let us know how it works out!
@@tinyboatproductions Alright thanks a lot fot the fast response! i will post later when it's done.
Best regards!
@@tinyboatproductions I finally could made it, works just fine, love the look on my desk! :D thank you so much for sharing your build.
can your code be used for qmk or via or any keymap software? sorry I'm not very good at coding
I believe that it can be. I do not know how to set it up, and it was not designed with that in mind.
Where did you find those keycaps :o
They are part of the num pad from this set: mechanicalkeyboards.com/shop/index.php?l=product_detail&p=1507
how do i know which resistor I need?
On the website of the leds it states: 20mA 3.0V-3.2V
Something like 220-330 ohms should do it
pog
hello, please what kind of code do you use on these keyboards? Do you program or can I find it somewhere???
Check out the inscrutable in the description. The code is there.
is that work with macbook?
I don't see any reason that it wouldn't. The biggest change you would need to make would be changing the code from use the control key the command key for a mac.
@@tinyboatproductions it works
good video
can you help me , i was make this one last night . and when i plug in to my pc than i play a player media its looped play/plause continously . and i never edit the code progam , i just copy paste . sory if my english bad
If the code is the same I would double check the wiring as well as the pin outs on the encoder. Its possible that there is a short somewhere.
Hey im in the middle of creating this project, there are 2 wires that go to a pin (5) yet if you did that it would short circuit. Is there a different pin to put the wires into besides 5?
Would you look at that. The column pins should be 7, 8, and 9. All the other PIN numbers look correct.
@@tinyboatproductions i have another question. In the code for the Macropad are there specific libraries that you used? i keep coming up with the error that Keypad cant be found
@@samtelfer7364
Yes I used Keypad.h, Encoder.h, Bounce2.h, and HID-Project.h. The last time I updated the code on my macropad was awhile ago. So if you keep having issues I would suggest downgrading the libraries to a previous version.
Great video. No really i mean it.
can u make one without using a pro micro? i mean ang entire pcb with a microchip. some pcb manufactureres are selling their services for a reasonable price. keep up the good work
I think it’s possible.
I know nothing about pcb design, and the pro micro is only about $5. So it didn’t make sense for me on this project.
@@tinyboatproductions but u can still sell it. yah same. but i think it is easy though. it will fund your future projects atleast. and it will look more organized
Hi bro, I'm a little confused in the soldering area, what do the numbers in the picture mean? Why is it different from pro micro, in pro micro I can't find the numbers 19, 20, 21, etc. Please help me with the soldering
Hi there,
I can see the confusion. On the Pro Micro the analog pins can also be used as digital pins, that’s what I have done. I've attached a diagram of the analog/digital pin out. Pins 19-21 are labeled on the board as A1-A3.
www.theengineeringprojects.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/12/Introduction-to-Arduino-Pro-Micro-2.png
@@tinyboatproductions i had that confused too, now i understand what the number mean.
But i have a problem now hope you can help me out, i got the rotary encoder conected on A3 -SW, A2-DT, A1-CLK but the volume it is not constant, i mean it goes up and down at the same time and very fast, the push button works just fine, the only problem is the volume.
@@pitonlpz this is, I believe, because the encoder is not connected to the interrupt pins. This meaning that some encoder pulses can be missed making the encoder a bit erratic. I think this can be fixed by connecting the encoder pins to interrupt pins on the Arduino and connecting them in the code. I have not done this, so I cannot be of much help unfortunately.
@@tinyboatproductions Thank you, i look for that up on the sparkfun page and in my case worked with this pins
//Encoder
int SW = 10;
int DT = 2;
int CLK = 3;
Other question, how can i set the code for the encoder to be more precise?
1:43
Ah the "Media Offline" error... The bug that makes me want to die everytime i see it...
Good video, but you could really work on your microphone quality
instructions unclear i built a 234sqft home.
As a customer, the only thing I care about is that it's easy to program withotu software or driver and you show how to do it in a video or text file. I already got burned by buying one that just does "A" and "S" and there is no way to change it. i can't tell you how almost completely useless and annoying it is...
Also, as a blind person, even though I have a banging TS100 soldering iron and Kester high quality solder, I don't want to to assemble or solder anytihing because I'm blind. It's not going to happen any more.
the what?