I'm so glad to see a great streamdeck alternative. I have been really needing one but can never seem to cough up the money for it. I've already ordered all the parts...Thanks to all of you for this...
finally my SMD & TH boards I ordered came in - had every intention of making the SMD version first but quickly realised that maybe I should have ordered the paste mask plate as well - so I built the through hole version instead, and have to say that if anyone else is thinking of building do the TH verision much easier. Happy to report that it mostly worked, have OLED 1 & 3 not illuminating for me and after do few tests think it maybe they are DOA so will need to remove and replace - which is not going to be fun but such is life! thanks for designing and sharing your work Adam your a clever guy!
Best of luck with the screens. Glad it’s working in the main. I’ve just designed the pcb, the rest is down to Killian and his helpers. Thanks for posting your progress.
Got the black pcb version of this from JLC PCB in the mail today. This was my first time using a pcb manufacturing service and I’m pleasantly surprised at the quality. Can’t wait to make my own Freedeck once I’ve got all the components in the mail.
Just what I’ve been looking for. I’ve seen the free deck project, ordered the cherry switches, but this takes it to a whole different level. Thank you Adam!
Found some icons (not as easy of a search as you would think) and completed the build. I made my own case, 3D printed base and laser cut mirror plexi for the face. Not sure if I can put a link in here but let's see if it works. photos.app.goo.gl/9DKc5QJAYyiQJF1g7 this is a shared album with a picture of my finished product.Note that the top left screen isn't working. I think it is either shorted out or defective. When I have time I'm going to pull the board out of the case and try putting a piece of paper between the screen and the button as was suggested in the discord. For now it doesn't affect the function and if any screen were to be bad, that is the best one.
I made a project very similar to this one a few years ago. If I remember correctly OBS has a websocket plugin. I used a TV box running Node red and the Dashboard add on. That way I had a locally hosted webpage that I could use to control OBS (I used a old phone). I considered using a Arduino and board as the tactile feedback would have been nice. Your project is more impressive. Great video.
Lovely project! And seems great for anything that might want frequent updates... For stuff one wants to leave alone most of the time, e-ink displays might also be an interesting choice!
I would've put one switch on each of the bottom corners, and wire them in parallel. It also provides the neglected support for the bending on the glass, when you push on the corners. the holes on the enclosure, will also make a great alignment jig when it comes time to solder them onto the PCB. Thanks for the inspirations.
Nice build. You can use a plexiglass top cover for a streamlined look. C cuts for every button, leaving the hinge side uncut or, better, partially cut. You can combine it with a nice sticker mask or play with plexiglass transparency. Carving finger placement dots is also an option. Mount it with magnets for clean look.
What a brilliant idea Adam and Kilian. It certainly started me thinking...android phone or iPhone, key images, touch detection, bluetooth or wifi connection to PC/Laptop...presto no hardware to build! Could be more universal too if it connected with some library on a RPi...just some thoughts and a thankyou to you both.
You're describing "Matric". Or "Roccu Power Grid" - although I don't think that's maintained anymore. Possibly you could use "Unified Remote". Depends on exactly what you're trying to do. I use Matric to execute scripts in Elite Dangerous (request docking etc) and Unified Remote to control my HTPC. Both have shortcomings, and a "real" button is just so much nicer to work with.
@@tin2001 I've now built a USB numpad into a Photoshop keyboard shortcut pad, and another into an elite dangerous keypad. Much better, imo. LUAmacros converts the keys into whatever keyboard shortcuts or scripts I need. I may end up building an 18 screen version of this thing though.
thank you for your great work Adam, I have ordered both of your PCBs - TH and SMD and am excited about building them - also going to show my gratitude by being a Patreon
hey adam, after seeing your video i was rather inspired to make this myself. first time ordering a bare PCB. hope it goes well. thanks for the tips. great video
this project is now really starting to get that more consumer look to it, will be intresting to see where it goes next, one big improvement i could see would be a switch to a colour panel (driver: ST7735) or maybe even just some clear caps that can go over the screen like what the elgato has which can instead directly push the switch rather than flexing the whole display
I am designing my own, and was looking for inspiration. You've done a good job. However, I need mine to be in full color, so I opted to go with these; "10PCS 0.96 inch TFT Display 8P SPI HD 65K Full Color LCD Module ST7735 Drive IC 80*160" If you google that, you'll see other sizes. At around $2.50 each, they are a pretty damn good deal for something that didn't even exist 5 years ago! I kinda like the elongated look. Specially if mounted vertically. I wanted to buy one, it was industrial, with industrial pricing and in Japanese!
The owner of the github says the Arduinos don't have enough processing power to do full colour displays but I guess that the stm32f103c8t6 (blue pill) might.
I've seen lots of other Elgato style budget builds, but this one, to me at least, is the cleanest. Ordered my PCB's and parts today and cant wait (30 - 90 days) to get started. (might as well build 5 since I have to buy a min of 5 boards) lol. Purchased my .96 LCD's in white, hopefully that doesn't screw anything up :S
I wonder how long it will be before someone knocks this off (just like your battery tester design!). Great effort, thanks for sharing! A great idea and a lot cheaper than the commercially available design - all we need now are cheap colour screens!
For less soldering, How about a touch screen monitor and a raspberry pi? With the added advantage of making custom colored buttons of any size, and all the programming can be done right on the pi.
I have done something similar to this, and those screens are made of thin glass and can crack from being handled roughly, especially in the corners. Perhaps using a clear plastic button-top to go over it would be better, but I haven't personally been able to find a suitable one on any of the usual websites.
Several of these would also be good for simulation games such as flight sims.Instead of locating the correct key on the keyboard for those you have not mapped to your flight controls, you could use these, once could even be used to engage a background mp3 player, to play back in cabin announcements, saftey breifings and other fluff that just adds to the experience when flying :) Oh, and F13 doesn't exist on a PC keyboard, or at leas on not many, but those of us lucky enough to own a full sized mac computer keybvoard has keys going up to F15. Mine are mapped to Autopilot controls in the sim, and microphone select / TX when working with my amateur radio software (swapping microphones in effect changes from one radio to the next).
That’s a great idea. I use F13-24 on my previous macro keypads to trigger auto hot key functions where programs aren’t customisable in that way. There’s loads of combinations you can use control+f24 shift+Ctrl+f21 etc. etc.
VERY nice. I love those little OLED screens and I was thinking of doing something similar with a Pi Zero. Do you worry that the "hinge" for the display-buttons is the soldered headers? I wonder if solder will crack over time with both the torque and the downward pressure on the joint. Of course it wouldn't be that hard to use stranded wire and put a block of material at the top edge of the screens if necessary. Subscribed.
Quite amazing what can be done today so cheaply although it obviously requires almost a decade of experience to be able to both code the software and then design all the hardware along with it.
9:55 love the idea of the screens pressing onto the switches. maybe you can find switches who are a small bit higher ? also I was thinking of a design where capacitive touch OLEDs are used but that would raise the cost deerly I guess :)
SidneyCritic ComedyHound I was thinking same with the gluing of plastic. The capacitive touch would be OK with me as long as the box of the button had haptic feedback. I grew up on tactile IBM click keyboards. In a large office, you could lose some of your hearing over time :D Regardless that tactile feedback and sound was badass. OK maybe sound not good with this application, but definitely some haptic feeling for the user, so technically could click it blind, especially if it featured a transparent Braille like just for the number position of the button (would also expect the Braille to change lol!). You can see a marker used now on keyboards on the F and J keys on ASCII keyboards for those typing as trained, following the “home row”.
This is a great project, I really like it! A quick question, why is the SD card needed? Is it because all the images would not fit into the flash memory of the arduino? Thank you!
This is a great project and I've been thinking about similar macropads too. One idea I'm going to steal is the sd card with configuration. However, it's usually a good idea to have a switch to disable the keyboard/mouse functions because otherwise you can end up in a situation where you can't flash it over usb anymore if it's trying to send keypresses all of the time. Actually you could do that easily by disabling the output when the sd card is removed. Another option worth considering is using a dedicated i2c multiplexer like TCA9548A although it's probably more expensive but possibly simpler in other respects. Also a i2c gpio extender like PCF8574 or MCP23017 might also be more flexible, e.g. if you want a switch matrix rather than up to 8 parallel switches. Again probably slightly more expensive too, but the oleds, micro and pcb are your biggest costs.
Awesome project, and a great open source version of the Stream Deck. I'd be curious to find out if you could create a capacitive touch version with some basic TTp-223 chips, and a pad integrated into the PCB BEHIND the OLED screen. The sensitivity of the capacity could be tuned to trigger when a finger is touching the OLED, i.e. hovering over the capacitance pad of the PCB? Wonder if that would work and the OLED doesn't interfere with the signal too much?? Great work though, love it!
Cheer Stephen. I think this is worth investigating and I bought some of the ICs David was playing with a few weeks ago with this in mind. I’m inclined to think that the distance, the components mounted on the back of the screen and the screen itself may be too much to deal with for a touch sensor. But it’ll be fun trying :-)
Nice idea but one thing about OLED screens, (with static displays), which really lets them down is burn-in. Have you a plan to reduce the inevitable dimming? It would be a right pain to replace them at a later date.
@@AdamWelchUK Sorry to bring it to your attention. I love these little OLEDs but they do 'fade' with time, not really noticeable until you change the image then it sticks out like a baboons bum. Nixie tubes have similar problem called cathode poisoning and cycle through periodically to prevent it.....maybe that would work here too?
Blob of silicone on top of each switch at the final fitting to take up the gap, and fit the screens into the case to use it as an alignment tool? I appreciate in your instance the case was probably designed and printed after all the soldering was done...
Very neat project Adam. Strikes me that it's almost a waste having one screen button as a page shift, are there any extra lines spare to have a couple of plain hardware buttons to do that?
Yes there are a few pins left - I think Killian fancies adding a rotary encoder. The configurator has the long press functionality built in, so you could always have the top left button programmed to go up a level on a long press and use the button for something more useful on each page already.
I wonder if a stack of a bigger screen, a pcb with smd switches and cutouts for images, as well as small pieces of glass or acrylic to press on those switches could be better and cheaper than individual display per button.
This is pretty much how the Streamdeck does it. Albeit with some custom switch construction in the rims of the acrylic button caps. Makes it cheaper to manufacture, keeps the pressure off the LCD and is somewhat more reliable registering clicks regardless of where on the button you put your finger. But with ST7789 1.3" displays under $2 a pop in single quantities I'm not too worried about hitting the price range of larger displays for the quantites I use in any one construction. Additionally, they allow me making my button pads in uncommon shapes too without much hassle.
Hi, great project ! i recieved the parts but got the pins of the OLED screends on this order VCC, GND, SCL, SDA instead of GND, VCC, SCL, SDA. Is this a problem ? should i order new screens with the the goods pins order or is this ok ? Thank you for your help.
If I may suggest. I think using a single screen instead of 6 little screens may be a better idea. It could be a design with a 5 to 6 inch screen underneath transparent buttons that are hinged on one side and touch a tactile button on the other side. That way, the I2c problem is mitigated. When you press the button, no direct pressure is put on the solder joints of the screen if it is connected that way. I would love to see a second version of this. Super cool. Keep it up.
Anyway to make this a two-way communication? Maybe something that lights up when recording, or a way to tell which lights lights you have on in a studio or something?
well, technically, if you are much of a programmer this isn't hard at all, however you are asking so I'm going to assume you don't have a large background in programming so probably not worth the bother, but anyhow, there are already programs in the sim world for sending serial communications to arduinos for led's and screens (look up like diy sim racing dash or something of the like, digital screens, led, even f1 style wheel screens with touch, all from an arduino) to get them todo exactly what you want often takes a little coding, and of course, you would have to combine the code from whatever tool you're using to send the serial communication with the freedeck code and interface them with your icons... a days work for someone who has spent much time with diy sim racing goodies, for someone unfamiliar it would be weeks...
@@killorkubed I've got some extensive coding background, but not for physical objects, lol. I'll likely look into, was just worried the device presents itself as a simulated USB HID that wasn't able to receive communications.
What type of display did you use?, Because if you look on the back there is address setting resistors, you can tell this by them being 0 ohms. I'm not sure how many addresses can be done using them but for 6 displays it should of been enough.
Amazing video! I would like to make my own version with different number of screens and different layout. Can you please explain how the configurator website works? And how can I make something more customizable for myself?
"the eltago streamdeck"
ROFL...
1:09 lol
i shrivelled when i heard that
Sounds like an chinese clone of it hahahah
No, it's called Eltago Streampad
Excellent! just what I need to create a programmable IR TV control for my mother with dementia! Thank you Sir! 😊
Absolutely amazing video! Thanks for being a part of this project and all your contributions
I'm glad you like it, but you've done all the hard work! Cheers
Thanks you both!
@killian @adam can we get an idea on when the gerber files will be available on github?
Marcis Soper they’re all there now in the 3x2 SMD or TH folders
I'm so glad to see a great streamdeck alternative. I have been really needing one but can never seem to cough up the money for it. I've already ordered all the parts...Thanks to all of you for this...
finally my SMD & TH boards I ordered came in - had every intention of making the SMD version first but quickly realised that maybe I should have ordered the paste mask plate as well - so I built the through hole version instead, and have to say that if anyone else is thinking of building do the TH verision much easier. Happy to report that it mostly worked, have OLED 1 & 3 not illuminating for me and after do few tests think it maybe they are DOA so will need to remove and replace - which is not going to be fun but such is life! thanks for designing and sharing your work Adam your a clever guy!
Best of luck with the screens. Glad it’s working in the main. I’ve just designed the pcb, the rest is down to Killian and his helpers. Thanks for posting your progress.
Got the black pcb version of this from JLC PCB in the mail today. This was my first time using a pcb manufacturing service and I’m pleasantly surprised at the quality. Can’t wait to make my own Freedeck once I’ve got all the components in the mail.
Those little screens are neat. I wish I still had the full use of my hands. These sorts of projects always look fun to do. Great video. Cheers.
Just what I’ve been looking for. I’ve seen the free deck project, ordered the cherry switches, but this takes it to a whole different level. Thank you Adam!
Great to hear!
@@AdamWelchUK is there a link or search term for the icons?
Found some icons (not as easy of a search as you would think) and completed the build. I made my own case, 3D printed base and laser cut mirror plexi for the face. Not sure if I can put a link in here but let's see if it works. photos.app.goo.gl/9DKc5QJAYyiQJF1g7 this is a shared album with a picture of my finished product.Note that the top left screen isn't working. I think it is either shorted out or defective. When I have time I'm going to pull the board out of the case and try putting a piece of paper between the screen and the button as was suggested in the discord. For now it doesn't affect the function and if any screen were to be bad, that is the best one.
I made a project very similar to this one a few years ago.
If I remember correctly OBS has a websocket plugin.
I used a TV box running Node red and the Dashboard add on.
That way I had a locally hosted webpage that I could use to control OBS (I used a old phone).
I considered using a Arduino and board as the tactile feedback would have been nice.
Your project is more impressive.
Great video.
Lovely project! And seems great for anything that might want frequent updates... For stuff one wants to leave alone most of the time, e-ink displays might also be an interesting choice!
15:50 - its not Crucial but it is Transcend ;)
Ha! Very good :-)
I would've put one switch on each of the bottom corners, and wire them in parallel.
It also provides the neglected support for the bending on the glass, when you push on the corners.
the holes on the enclosure, will also make a great alignment jig when it comes time to solder them onto the PCB.
Thanks for the inspirations.
Hey buddy. There is a bug on the bottom left key cap going round the circle from 0:15 and onwards. Make sure that there are no others.
As a programmer, i was trying to find another kind of bug... Forgot that real life also has bugs
Or, make sure there are more bugs, and bet on them
Nice build. You can use a plexiglass top cover for a streamlined look. C cuts for every button, leaving the hinge side uncut or, better, partially cut. You can combine it with a nice sticker mask or play with plexiglass transparency. Carving finger placement dots is also an option. Mount it with magnets for clean look.
You should make a part 2 to show how to expand to more screens
What a brilliant idea Adam and Kilian. It certainly started me thinking...android phone or iPhone, key images, touch detection, bluetooth or wifi connection to PC/Laptop...presto no hardware to build! Could be more universal too if it connected with some library on a RPi...just some thoughts and a thankyou to you both.
You're describing "Matric". Or "Roccu Power Grid" - although I don't think that's maintained anymore. Possibly you could use "Unified Remote". Depends on exactly what you're trying to do.
I use Matric to execute scripts in Elite Dangerous (request docking etc) and Unified Remote to control my HTPC. Both have shortcomings, and a "real" button is just so much nicer to work with.
Touch screens are no good for blind pressing. Real buttons you can feel for while looking at something else.
@@tin2001 I've now built a USB numpad into a Photoshop keyboard shortcut pad, and another into an elite dangerous keypad. Much better, imo. LUAmacros converts the keys into whatever keyboard shortcuts or scripts I need.
I may end up building an 18 screen version of this thing though.
0:14 So now one sees the little bug in the Chrome button walking a marathon?
I caught him in the edit - I was tempted to run a little section of it in reverse to see if anyone noticed :-)
lol i had to look an see if anyone else saw that, i thought i was trippin 😂
I think that thats the OBS Studio button
I can’t see. It
@@bobgoldman4404 little black dots moving through the engraving
thank you for your great work Adam, I have ordered both of your PCBs - TH and SMD and am excited about building them - also going to show my gratitude by being a Patreon
Yay! That’s great. Thanks very much. What colour are you pcbs?
@@AdamWelchUK I ordered the black PCBs of both - is there/will there be any videos on building the SMD version Adam?
Look great ! A home button seem to be a great idea for being able to use 6 pages of 6 buttons instead of 5.
Thanks for the guide and all the information! This is awesome Adam.
hey adam, after seeing your video i was rather inspired to make this myself. first time ordering a bare PCB. hope it goes well. thanks for the tips. great video
Excellent. I’m pleased you’ve tried something new based on one of my videos! Good luck with the next steps!
awesome! I'm gonna use this project to add buttons to my Strix Impact mouse that's shamelessly missing even a back button!
this project is now really starting to get that more consumer look to it, will be intresting to see where it goes next, one big improvement i could see would be a switch to a colour panel (driver: ST7735) or maybe even just some clear caps that can go over the screen like what the elgato has which can instead directly push the switch rather than flexing the whole display
The end was really cute and made me laugh (savoring the peeling). I totally agree! :D
Six at the same time is a luxury.
I am designing my own, and was looking for inspiration. You've done a good job.
However, I need mine to be in full color, so I opted to go with these;
"10PCS 0.96 inch TFT Display 8P SPI HD 65K Full Color LCD Module ST7735 Drive IC 80*160"
If you google that, you'll see other sizes. At around $2.50 each, they are a pretty damn good deal for something that didn't even exist 5 years ago!
I kinda like the elongated look. Specially if mounted vertically.
I wanted to buy one, it was industrial, with industrial pricing and in Japanese!
Also TFT doesnt have burn in, these small OLEDs have rather bad Burn-in
Is there a space where we can follow you on this project?
Hey, can you explain how you made this project?
The owner of the github says the Arduinos don't have enough processing power to do full colour displays but I guess that the stm32f103c8t6 (blue pill) might.
Nice little project and loved the screen peel extra at the end.
:-)
Nice video! Print the lid first and you've got a template to assist aligning the screens for soldering 👍
Is there a ready to use project to make one with more buttons?
I've seen lots of other Elgato style budget builds, but this one, to me at least, is the cleanest. Ordered my PCB's and parts today and cant wait (30 - 90 days) to get started. (might as well build 5 since I have to buy a min of 5 boards) lol. Purchased my .96 LCD's in white, hopefully that doesn't screw anything up :S
Excellent project 👍
0:15 - 1:43 = in the lower left white button an insect crawls in a circle until the author scares it at the end
For reference... F13 is just Shift + F1 for anyone who's wondering... that's... a pretty standard thing.
I wonder how long it will be before someone knocks this off (just like your battery tester design!). Great effort, thanks for sharing! A great idea and a lot cheaper than the commercially available design - all we need now are cheap colour screens!
Great video Adam! Seems like a good alternative to a streamdeck. I just ordered a few touch screens to try and do the same thing....
Great - looking forward to seeing your progress Dustin.
1:13 at the top of the chrome keypad button in the rim you can see a bug walking around.
For less soldering, How about a touch screen monitor and a raspberry pi? With the added advantage of making custom colored buttons of any size, and all the programming can be done right on the pi.
A great project really well done. Would be good to have a separate physical back button so you don't loose a screen on every page to the back arrow.
That’s possible. It’s also possible to use the press and hold function to go back a page too, but I didn’t show that in my demo. :-/
This is brilliant. Great job. Thanks for sharing all this goodness.
Looks like a mechanical disaster - pressing the button through the display, flexing everything.
Does everything still work?
I have done something similar to this, and those screens are made of thin glass and can crack from being handled roughly, especially in the corners. Perhaps using a clear plastic button-top to go over it would be better, but I haven't personally been able to find a suitable one on any of the usual websites.
Brilliant, thank you! Can't wait to try this!
Oh, I just made the same one. You should use 0.42 inch display. They are awesome.
Several of these would also be good for simulation games such as flight sims.Instead of locating the correct key on the keyboard for those you have not mapped to your flight controls, you could use these, once could even be used to engage a background mp3 player, to play back in cabin announcements, saftey breifings and other fluff that just adds to the experience when flying :) Oh, and F13 doesn't exist on a PC keyboard, or at leas on not many, but those of us lucky enough to own a full sized mac computer keybvoard has keys going up to F15. Mine are mapped to Autopilot controls in the sim, and microphone select / TX when working with my amateur radio software (swapping microphones in effect changes from one radio to the next).
That’s a great idea. I use F13-24 on my previous macro keypads to trigger auto hot key functions where programs aren’t customisable in that way. There’s loads of combinations you can use control+f24 shift+Ctrl+f21 etc. etc.
Adam: Talking about the Macro KeyPad
Me: hehe bug in the chrome key
Such a fun project! Amazing work!
VERY nice. I love those little OLED screens and I was thinking of doing something similar with a Pi Zero.
Do you worry that the "hinge" for the display-buttons is the soldered headers? I wonder if solder will crack over time with both the torque and the downward pressure on the joint. Of course it wouldn't be that hard to use stranded wire and put a block of material at the top edge of the screens if necessary.
Subscribed.
Quite amazing what can be done today so cheaply although it obviously requires almost a decade of experience to be able to both code the software and then design all the hardware along with it.
Watched the tutorial, stayed for the peel, nice!
Very neat design!
9:55 love the idea of the screens pressing onto the switches. maybe you can find switches who are a small bit higher ? also I was thinking of a design where capacitive touch OLEDs are used but that would raise the cost deerly I guess :)
You can glue a plastic space behind the screen to level then, but yes capacitive touch OLED is better.
Do you have any examples of capacitive touch screens of this kind of size?
SidneyCritic ComedyHound I was thinking same with the gluing of plastic. The capacitive touch would be OK with me as long as the box of the button had haptic feedback. I grew up on tactile IBM click keyboards. In a large office, you could lose some of your hearing over time :D Regardless that tactile feedback and sound was badass. OK maybe sound not good with this application, but definitely some haptic feeling for the user, so technically could click it blind, especially if it featured a transparent Braille like just for the number position of the button (would also expect the Braille to change lol!). You can see a marker used now on keyboards on the F and J keys on ASCII keyboards for those typing as trained, following the “home row”.
then again. you could fit the hole keyboard an more on a TFT.
@@nodustechnologies3989 basically buy a cheap smartphone and use it as remote.
Cool, this could change things , and you made tiny touch screens, cool!
This is a great project, I really like it! A quick question, why is the SD card needed? Is it because all the images would not fit into the flash memory of the arduino? Thank you!
I have actually had to do that Arduino mini desoldering job on a PCB.. It is indeed quite awful as you have suggested.
Wow! Excellent project and great video, Adam! Really enjoyed watching it and inspired me to look further into this :) keep it up!
This looks great! I have to make one
Great video as ever, love how the board looks.
Cheers Colin. Thanks for pointing me in this direction. It sits on my desk at work and is becoming very handy!
This is a great project and I've been thinking about similar macropads too. One idea I'm going to steal is the sd card with configuration.
However, it's usually a good idea to have a switch to disable the keyboard/mouse functions because otherwise you can end up in a situation where you can't flash it over usb anymore if it's trying to send keypresses all of the time. Actually you could do that easily by disabling the output when the sd card is removed.
Another option worth considering is using a dedicated i2c multiplexer like TCA9548A although it's probably more expensive but possibly simpler in other respects. Also a i2c gpio extender like PCF8574 or MCP23017 might also be more flexible, e.g. if you want a switch matrix rather than up to 8 parallel switches. Again probably slightly more expensive too, but the oleds, micro and pcb are your biggest costs.
Nice job. Do you know how the screens are addressed in the code? As far as I'm aware all of those screens share the same I2C address.
0:05 i love that minecraft and fortnite are in the same column
Could this be scaled up to do more screens?
what do you think about a version that uses low profile cherry switches instead of surface mounted buttons?
amazing, I need to try this build one day
Great video 👍 I'm going to build for myself and daughter
Nice job. Are you selling the PCBs?
Awesome project, and a great open source version of the Stream Deck. I'd be curious to find out if you could create a capacitive touch version with some basic TTp-223 chips, and a pad integrated into the PCB BEHIND the OLED screen. The sensitivity of the capacity could be tuned to trigger when a finger is touching the OLED, i.e. hovering over the capacitance pad of the PCB? Wonder if that would work and the OLED doesn't interfere with the signal too much??
Great work though, love it!
Cheer Stephen. I think this is worth investigating and I bought some of the ICs David was playing with a few weeks ago with this in mind. I’m inclined to think that the distance, the components mounted on the back of the screen and the screen itself may be too much to deal with for a touch sensor. But it’ll be fun trying :-)
@@AdamWelchUK Check out the cap sense capabilities, they are well documented
Nice idea but one thing about OLED screens, (with static displays), which really lets them down is burn-in. Have you a plan to reduce the inevitable dimming? It would be a right pain to replace them at a later date.
I’ve not considered this really. I’ll have to see how that plays out. Thanks for the heads up on that.
@@AdamWelchUK Sorry to bring it to your attention. I love these little OLEDs but they do 'fade' with time, not really noticeable until you change the image then it sticks out like a baboons bum. Nixie tubes have similar problem called cathode poisoning and cycle through periodically to prevent it.....maybe that would work here too?
MrToM I’m sure it’s worth a try. Thanks very much. MrT
great job man but have you made any PCBs or 3D enclosures for more keys
Hello Other Adam.
Thanks for this, link this with Andrais's spinner and we now have a sweet editing streaming deck!
Thanks mate and subbed!
Cheers Adam. I think this video benefitted from his HID video released just 36 hours later :-) Great to have you along.
Done a button touch screen too. Fortunately it does not need much clicking :)
Awesome! I'm going to built it. Thanks
Blob of silicone on top of each switch at the final fitting to take up the gap, and fit the screens into the case to use it as an alignment tool? I appreciate in your instance the case was probably designed and printed after all the soldering was done...
Wish I could just buy this as a kit. I think I'm decent at soldering, but would need to source PCB and 3D printed parts which feels like a hassle.
JLCPCB is probs the best option for something like this. only downside is the wait and shipping times
@@Altirix_ jlcpcb only took a week from ordering to receiving the boards. Took longer to get the screens from aliexpress.
@@JamesHughes-photoJames thats pretty impressive, ive ordered from them before, under a month to ship but thats amazing considering thats from china.
@@Altirix_ shipping cost more than the boards. They have great prices on making boards but shipping is always $$ because they send it express.
Very neat project Adam. Strikes me that it's almost a waste having one screen button as a page shift, are there any extra lines spare to have a couple of plain hardware buttons to do that?
Yes there are a few pins left - I think Killian fancies adding a rotary encoder. The configurator has the long press functionality built in, so you could always have the top left button programmed to go up a level on a long press and use the button for something more useful on each page already.
This is very very cool. great video :)
If there was a way to update the images and macros through the pro micro, this would be an amazing project for me to make tbh.
The buttons won't damage the screen cable?
I hope not, but I’ll find out with use I guess.
I wonder if a stack of a bigger screen, a pcb with smd switches and cutouts for images, as well as small pieces of glass or acrylic to press on those switches could be better and cheaper than individual display per button.
It’s be interesting to see the comparison.
This is pretty much how the Streamdeck does it. Albeit with some custom switch construction in the rims of the acrylic button caps. Makes it cheaper to manufacture, keeps the pressure off the LCD and is somewhat more reliable registering clicks regardless of where on the button you put your finger.
But with ST7789 1.3" displays under $2 a pop in single quantities I'm not too worried about hitting the price range of larger displays for the quantites I use in any one construction. Additionally, they allow me making my button pads in uncommon shapes too without much hassle.
What tweezers are those? Are they ceramic tips?
Hi, great project ! i recieved the parts but got the pins of the OLED screends on this order VCC, GND, SCL, SDA instead of GND, VCC, SCL, SDA. Is this a problem ? should i order new screens with the the goods pins order or is this ok ? Thank you for your help.
Wouldn't it be better to soldier at least 2 of those screens before soldiering the "legs" fir the arduino?
If I may suggest. I think using a single screen instead of 6 little screens may be a better idea. It could be a design with a 5 to 6 inch screen underneath transparent buttons that are hinged on one side and touch a tactile button on the other side. That way, the I2c problem is mitigated. When you press the button, no direct pressure is put on the solder joints of the screen if it is connected that way. I would love to see a second version of this. Super cool. Keep it up.
Is there a 12 button version? or just make it so you can plug multiple to together
Does no one see the tiny bug scuttling around in the macro pad
where can i find the pcb?
can you add to description box the componenets for build the surface mount freedeck? pls
Anyway to make this a two-way communication? Maybe something that lights up when recording, or a way to tell which lights lights you have on in a studio or something?
well, technically, if you are much of a programmer this isn't hard at all, however you are asking so I'm going to assume you don't have a large background in programming so probably not worth the bother, but anyhow, there are already programs in the sim world for sending serial communications to arduinos for led's and screens (look up like diy sim racing dash or something of the like, digital screens, led, even f1 style wheel screens with touch, all from an arduino) to get them todo exactly what you want often takes a little coding, and of course, you would have to combine the code from whatever tool you're using to send the serial communication with the freedeck code and interface them with your icons... a days work for someone who has spent much time with diy sim racing goodies, for someone unfamiliar it would be weeks...
@@killorkubed I've got some extensive coding background, but not for physical objects, lol. I'll likely look into, was just worried the device presents itself as a simulated USB HID that wasn't able to receive communications.
Great Project and super video, any idea when the gerbers are ready?
They’ve been pulled into the github repository. I’ve tested both the through hole and surface mount versions.
@@AdamWelchUK Can you send a link to the gerbers, i still cant find them
Such a cool project. Thanks for this Adam. Have you posted the STL files for the case anywhere?
Yeah the case used in this video is available here: www.thingiverse.com/thing:4511644
why are there bugs on the obs button 1:40
A great start to work
There is something walking inside one of your white 3D printed buttons!
I know, caught it in the edit doing laps!
@@AdamWelchUK its exercising during lockdown
why was there a bug in the chrome button at 0:55
Why not try getting an Industrial HMI they are getting a lot cheaper and are rugged.
Do you have any suggestions?
@@rickpercy87 Delta HMI are relative cheap.
Aren't they bulky?
Those are unnecessarily large. At that point you could probably just hook up a touch screen or an old tablet.
@@TheDeathskull37 Yo wait thats actually genius. That gives me a project to work on coding wise too.
Hello, on the page for the oled, there's a "new" version. Do you see a possible proble to use it or the 4 pins is what important ?
Thanks
What type of display did you use?, Because if you look on the back there is address setting resistors, you can tell this by them being 0 ohms. I'm not sure how many addresses can be done using them but for 6 displays it should of been enough.
That was really cool, thank you!
How would you make one that has say 24 buttons?
Amazing video! I would like to make my own version with different number of screens and different layout. Can you please explain how the configurator website works? And how can I make something more customizable for myself?
well done mate.
yeah, that's on the top of the to do list for me.
I very like your job man.