Rob you are a wizard. I'm in Michigan and I've said it before I would love to come there just to clean up your shavings from one day. Have a great day God Bless
Thanks for covering this, Rob. I made a scrub plane out of my dad’s old Stanley Handyman #4 a couple years ago, as it just wasn’t a good enough plane for fine work. It’s nice to be able to keep a family heirloom tool in service. If you were to demonstrate a similar conversion of an old plane into a scrub plane n a follow up video, I think a lot of us would appreciate it.
I dont think vintage bench planes make good conversions into real scrub plane because the blade is so thin. A scrub plane blade needs to be very thick to stand up under the stress of scrubbing. You could buy a new thicker blade but you can get a scrub plane for the cost of a new blade. The best way is to just buy a new or used scrub plane
@@Mr_Rick I trust Paul's advise and experience (with 50 plus years), but he doesn't go Olympic competition race at it like Rob just did in this video. Will the thinner blade handle it, like Rob is saying? I don't want to convert an old plane just to crack the carriage/body, or bend the iron, or something.
@@thomasarussellsr Fair comment. I did Paul's conversion on a #4. It works like a charm. Thin blade isn't an issue. Chip breaker is still used with corners slightly modified.
Nice demo, Rob! As usual, you offer straight advice from a real furniture maker who actually uses his tools to earn a living. This video, plus your other one on new vs vintage planes, convinced me to buy the Lie Nielsen scrub as a Christmas present to myself. With tax and shipping, the Lie Nielsen was $260. The vintage Stanleys have their charm, and there is a certain romance about holding a tool that was used over a hundred years ago, but as an actual working tool, I do see how a modern one with better steel and engineering that is ready to go out of the box (after some blade honing) would make much more sense. A run of the mill Stanley in decent shape, with shipping and tax, costs at least $75 on EBay. A Hock A2 blade or even better, a Veritas PMV-11, with matching chipbreaker is $100. So the old Stanley will end up costing more than a new Lie Nielsen. The stories of some other notable woodworking gurus about how their near-mint original condition Type 11 Stanleys cost them $10 at a garage sale in 1997 do not reflect the reality I have experienced in 2022. Plus, to make a Stanley smoother into a scrub, I’d have to enlarge its throat with a file so I can stuff a radiused Hock into it, destroying not only its collector value but it’s original design function as a smoother. Why would I want to do that?
What a difference with today's location and video quality... And this was not long ago! 🌞👍🏻 By the way I still dislike the interruption during the shooting though...
Thanks for the excellent video and thorough explanation. Can you use a scrub plane on end grain? I made an end grain cutting board that isn't completely flat but I don't want to send it through the thickness planer at school. My teacher suggested I build a router sled, but space at home is limited. Thanks in advance!
I am a new wood working, just getting into the craft and want to work with hand tools, could any one answer me a question? I only have 4 planes, a old Stanley #5 and #4, a Woden #4 and a Stanly HandyMan (a #3 i guess?). My question is can I use the handyman as a scrub plane? I have set my Stanley #4 as my smoothing plane and the others are jus set up normally.
Water with a little Honerite mixed in and a few drops of liquid dish soap. If you watch any of my sharpening videos I explain the lubricant in detail Here is the link to Honerite: robcosman.com/products/hone-rite-gold
Hey Rob, Not that I mind, on the contrary, I enjoy the content very much! I was just wondering why the last two videos are from years ago? Keep up the great content! Greetings from Bulgaria!
Interesting! One question ... why does the blade not have a blade advance slot? To make it stiffer or because of the width and thickness, or other? Cheers, Farmer John, Ontario
Think it's to make it cheaper to make the whole plane. There's no advance mechanism on that plane other than that which Rob shows where he adjusts by hand and tightens. I'm guessing the idea is that a scrub plane shouldn't be expensive, so less effort is made in its construction.
@@ricos1497 Thx Rico ... I wasn't aware that there was no advance on the plane; maybe I missed a few words while getting a midnight coffee (the worst thing, but you've got to be alert with a sharp instrument) ... so you've really got to hit the grain running with that tool ... using the difference in large opposing forces to make small changes in position is a skill requiring experience ... advancing a blade a couple thou, and not a couple eighths requiring a reset, could take a while, particularly as feel more than sighting plays a larger part with age ... (how old? ... last opposing forces instrument I used to effect micro changes was my engineering slide rule 🤪) ... seems so retro that I gotta have one! Cheers, Farmer John, Ontario
A scrub plane is a very coarse use plane. Its doesn't need an adjustment mechanism since you do not make fine adjustments (Its a coarse plane). The key to a good scrub plane is a very thick blade, in fact they have the thickest of any blades even thicker than my IBC bench plane blades. If you want to do very small adjustments just stick a shim (paper, business card, playing card etc) under the toe while on a flat surface, drop the plane down then tighten it up
2:45 Anybody, who knows what fluid Rob used here also to prevent rust? Sounds something like: "Hungwrite"?? Is it the name of the brand, or ?? Asking because I've just got 5 used and a bit rusty chisels and 2 old planes, and I would like to try to sharpen them, but it's my first time doing it, and I'm not sure what fluid to use, besides "chalk free water") And when (if) I succeed sharpening them, can I use some kind of protection to prevent rust, as my shop is insulated, but not heated when I'm not out there, and humidity here is often quite high in the winter (in the 90's percent) I do take some items inside the house, but I would very, very much appreciate any tips and tricks to rust-protect other items, like f.x. my new table saw, that has to stay out there ... Thank you so much (y) Greetings from Denmark /Pia
Hey Pia, you should look up some of Rob's other videos on sharpening hand plane blades and chisels since he goes into more detail about the basics. But I believe he used honeright(I think they sell it on Amazon as Bora honeright gold) which can be added to water to prevent rusting of your blades and diamond stones. But this is aimed to prevent rust from forming after you sharpen and I don't think it can be used as long term rust prevention. As to your other question about preventing rust on your other items, like your table saw, I would suggest putting some paste wax on the cast iron or steel parts. However I don't have to much experience with my stuff rusting because I live in California, so you might want to look up if anyone has had a similar experience to you and what they did to remedy the rusting. I hope this helps and good luck.
@@alecweaver5759 Thank you so very, very much, Alec. Your answers help me a lot! I have watched and will follow Rob's videos about sharpening, as well as many other videos, as they are all such an inspiration.
@@pirakoXX honeright is what Rob uses here. If you can't get that then any auto glass cleaner will do (if you're using diamond stoned only, not for oil or water stones). It's to prevent rust on the stones and not the tools. For tools, I just use light machine oil. Wipe it on with a rag and then wipe off with a clean one. Some use the Paul Sellers rag in a can method (look it up), but I find that if you don't use it regularly it dries out. You can also use wax if you want, but I tend to only use that on the sole of the plane to keep it running smoothly (without friction).
@@ricos1497 Thank you so much! I really appreciate all the knowledge you share with me. Paul Sellers is also among my favorites. Sadly, there are no elderly/experienced hobby woodworkers left in my village, and many of the materials (wax, oil, etc) used in English/American/Canadian channels are different brands from what we have here, or can be bought online, to a much higher price.. A little Fun-Fact: "Danish Oil" doesn't come from Denmark, just like the American "Danish" (pastry) here in Denmark is called "Wiener bread" because it comes from Wien (in English = Vienna) in Austria! Again, a huge thanks to you (y) /Pia
Hi Rob! What is the minimum thickness a plane blade should have based on your knowledge/experience? Unfortunately common blade locally (Philippines) is 2mm, even if the blades are sharp, chip breaker's tuned, frog sitting tight and mouth has the correct allowance, there are times it digs deep and causes tear out. I want to be certain because it is not cheap to import tools.
I would not get anything less thick than around 0.100 of am inch thick, thicker is even better. A thick blade is your friend reduces vibration. Look at IBC, Hock, Lie Nielsen for thick blades
You were having fun!!! I have received no.4 Stanley bailey ( 19 i think) it's an old but new in its condition and i am intending to make it as a scrub plane. My problem with it that it's like new, no one have touch it and set it correctly the sole of the plane was just like Banana....i have started to flatten it and its very hard steel !!! ( Much harder than my other new planes) i have manege that the gap at the up to 5 mm from front of the plane is 0.1 mm and and at the back up to 6mm is 0.15mm. the rest of the sole is flatten. Are this gaps are good enough for a scrub plane? I can flat it but it will take a lot of time ( i am flattening it manually)...?
Blade shape. But any plane can be converted to a scrub plane by just changing the shape of the blade and perhaps widening the mouth to allow for bigger shavings to pass through. It's fairly easy to do on a number 4. It helps to have a grinder for the blade shaping, or you can buy scrub blades to fit a number 4 I think. It's a good project if you have a spare hour or two and an old plane.
I disagree with Rico that any plane can be made into a scrub plane. A scrub plane is the axe of planes meaning its designed for removing a lot of material quickly. To do that you need a VERY thick blade and a blade with a small width. Many folks take an old vintage plane like a #4 with its thin and wide blade, grind a curve into it and use it as a scrub. Because of the thin and wider blade it cannot remove nearly the amount of material in a single pass that a true scrub plane can. It will work, especially in softer woods, but a scrub plan is much faster and better suited for scrubbing. It can remove why thicker material even in hardwoods. As for recognizing it, just look at the enlarged pic on the thumbnail of this video, that's a scrub plane
Rob you are a wizard. I'm in Michigan and I've said it before I would love to come there just to clean up your shavings from one day. Have a great day God Bless
You are totally welcome to visit our shop once COVID is over
Nicely explained. I use my scrub plane to knock the high spots off before sending it through my thickness planer. Saves a lot of time.
That's a great use to get one side flat enough to go through the planer
Thanks for covering this, Rob. I made a scrub plane out of my dad’s old Stanley Handyman #4 a couple years ago, as it just wasn’t a good enough plane for fine work. It’s nice to be able to keep a family heirloom tool in service. If you were to demonstrate a similar conversion of an old plane into a scrub plane n a follow up video, I think a lot of us would appreciate it.
Hey, I have a #4 Handyman I'd like to convert, I think that's a great idea for a video.
I dont think vintage bench planes make good conversions into real scrub plane because the blade is so thin. A scrub plane blade needs to be very thick to stand up under the stress of scrubbing. You could buy a new thicker blade but you can get a scrub plane for the cost of a new blade. The best way is to just buy a new or used scrub plane
That's what Paul Sellers did. He converted a Stanley Bailey No. 4 into a scrub plane. Great way to use a plane that just sits around.
@@Mr_Rick I trust Paul's advise and experience (with 50 plus years), but he doesn't go Olympic competition race at it like Rob just did in this video. Will the thinner blade handle it, like Rob is saying? I don't want to convert an old plane just to crack the carriage/body, or bend the iron, or something.
@@thomasarussellsr Fair comment. I did Paul's conversion on a #4. It works like a charm. Thin blade isn't an issue. Chip breaker is still used with corners slightly modified.
Great video! I love my little.scrub plane, often times it is quicker than setting up the planer for small tasks.
It really is!
Nice demo, Rob! As usual, you offer straight advice from a real furniture maker who actually uses his tools to earn a living. This video, plus your other one on new vs vintage planes, convinced me to buy the Lie Nielsen scrub as a Christmas present to myself. With tax and shipping, the Lie Nielsen was $260. The vintage Stanleys have their charm, and there is a certain romance about holding a tool that was used over a hundred years ago, but as an actual working tool, I do see how a modern one with better steel and engineering that is ready to go out of the box (after some blade honing) would make much more sense. A run of the mill Stanley in decent shape, with shipping and tax, costs at least $75 on EBay. A Hock A2 blade or even better, a Veritas PMV-11, with matching chipbreaker is $100. So the old Stanley will end up costing more than a new Lie Nielsen. The stories of some other notable woodworking gurus about how their near-mint original condition Type 11 Stanleys cost them $10 at a garage sale in 1997 do not reflect the reality I have experienced in 2022. Plus, to make a Stanley smoother into a scrub, I’d have to enlarge its throat with a file so I can stuff a radiused Hock into it, destroying not only its collector value but it’s original design function as a smoother. Why would I want to do that?
That was some serious scrubbing. Extremely well shown and done. Hoo-Rah!
good work out too
Ah, they old scrub plane demo for scrubs watching. Nice 😀
So many videos and I have never seen anyone cover this material. Excellent as always, thanks.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Rob I love your presentation and method of teaching. I learn so much and very quickly. THANKS!
Thanks for watching and commenting Dave
I’m sure you’ve covered this somewhere but can’t find anything. I’d love to hear your thoughts on Japanese style planes.
That's seriously heavy material removal there. Thanks for making use of older footage to educate us.
Glad you enjoyed it. We are on the mend so next posting is a new video
What a difference with today's location and video quality... And this was not long ago! 🌞👍🏻 By the way I still dislike the interruption during the shooting though...
There's a little extension called Sponsorblock that you might want to look into
What interruption are you referring to. We always turn off mid-roll ads?
To the one you inserted at 5:50 that comes in the middle of my learning efforts and shocked me 😄
Wow, that was impressive!!!
Great workout!,,,,my shoulder would be hurting for a month………
Thanks
👏😂
Thanks for the excellent video and thorough explanation. Can you use a scrub plane on end grain? I made an end grain cutting board that isn't completely flat but I don't want to send it through the thickness planer at school. My teacher suggested I build a router sled, but space at home is limited. Thanks in advance!
That would provide a good workout, I would use a bench plane were it mine.
@@RobCosmanWoodworking Thanks Rob!
With Lee Valley and Lie-Nielsen both out of stock on their scrub planes right now, I sure wish Woodcraft still offered theirs. Great video though!
yea I am not sure why they stopped making it as its a very simple plane, not too difficult to manufacture
As of right now , LN shows their 40 1/2 scrub in stock online
@@mattanson3552 you’re right! www.lie-nielsen.com/products/scrub-plane?path=special-purpose-tools&node=4076
@@mattanson3552 wow, they didn’t when I checked last night. Just ordered it. Thanks!!!
Great idea Probably many more that you can do
thanks for watching
Thanks!
Thanks for watching and commenting
That was impressive material removal Rob
Could I take my woodriver #4 or #6 buy a new blade and use it as a scrub plane or is this best done with a bevel up plane?
yes, a second blade sharpened with a slight camber would work fine.
I am a new wood working, just getting into the craft and want to work with hand tools, could any one answer me a question? I only have 4 planes, a old Stanley #5 and #4, a Woden #4 and a Stanly HandyMan (a #3 i guess?).
My question is can I use the handyman as a scrub plane? I have set my Stanley #4 as my smoothing plane and the others are jus set up normally.
What to do when having knots?
What are you using on your sharpening stones
Yeah I couldn't catch it either ...
It's called HoneRight
Water with a little Honerite mixed in and a few drops of liquid dish soap. If you watch any of my sharpening videos I explain the lubricant in detail Here is the link to Honerite: robcosman.com/products/hone-rite-gold
Hey Rob,
Not that I mind, on the contrary, I enjoy the content very much! I was just wondering why the last two videos are from years ago?
Keep up the great content!
Greetings from Bulgaria!
Been wondering same, hope everything is ok
Its all COVID related. We are on the mend so will start shooting new videos for next week
@@RobCosmanWoodworking Get well soon!
Seriously guys, glad to hear things ok, was getting worried.
Interesting! One question ... why does the blade not have a blade advance slot? To make it stiffer or because of the width and thickness, or other? Cheers, Farmer John, Ontario
Think it's to make it cheaper to make the whole plane. There's no advance mechanism on that plane other than that which Rob shows where he adjusts by hand and tightens. I'm guessing the idea is that a scrub plane shouldn't be expensive, so less effort is made in its construction.
@@ricos1497 Thx Rico ... I wasn't aware that there was no advance on the plane; maybe I missed a few words while getting a midnight coffee (the worst thing, but you've got to be alert with a sharp instrument) ... so you've really got to hit the grain running with that tool ... using the difference in large opposing forces to make small changes in position is a skill requiring experience ... advancing a blade a couple thou, and not a couple eighths requiring a reset, could take a while, particularly as feel more than sighting plays a larger part with age ... (how old?
... last opposing forces instrument I used to effect micro changes was my engineering slide rule 🤪) ... seems so retro that I gotta have one! Cheers, Farmer John, Ontario
A scrub plane is a very coarse use plane. Its doesn't need an adjustment mechanism since you do not make fine adjustments (Its a coarse plane). The key to a good scrub plane is a very thick blade, in fact they have the thickest of any blades even thicker than my IBC bench plane blades. If you want to do very small adjustments just stick a shim (paper, business card, playing card etc) under the toe while on a flat surface, drop the plane down then tighten it up
good sensible vid and tool
Glad it helped
2:45 Anybody, who knows what fluid Rob used here also to prevent rust?
Sounds something like: "Hungwrite"?? Is it the name of the brand, or ??
Asking because I've just got 5 used and a bit rusty chisels and 2 old planes, and I would like to try to sharpen them, but it's my first time doing it, and I'm not sure what fluid to use, besides "chalk free water")
And when (if) I succeed sharpening them, can I use some kind of protection to prevent rust, as my shop is insulated, but not heated when I'm not out there, and humidity here is often quite high in the winter (in the 90's percent)
I do take some items inside the house, but I would very, very much appreciate any tips and tricks to rust-protect other items, like f.x. my new table saw, that has to stay out there ...
Thank you so much (y)
Greetings from Denmark /Pia
Hey Pia, you should look up some of Rob's other videos on sharpening hand plane blades and chisels since he goes into more detail about the basics. But I believe he used honeright(I think they sell it on Amazon as Bora honeright gold) which can be added to water to prevent rusting of your blades and diamond stones. But this is aimed to prevent rust from forming after you sharpen and I don't think it can be used as long term rust prevention. As to your other question about preventing rust on your other items, like your table saw, I would suggest putting some paste wax on the cast iron or steel parts. However I don't have to much experience with my stuff rusting because I live in California, so you might want to look up if anyone has had a similar experience to you and what they did to remedy the rusting. I hope this helps and good luck.
@@alecweaver5759 Thank you so very, very much, Alec. Your answers help me a lot!
I have watched and will follow Rob's videos about sharpening, as well as many other videos, as they are all such an inspiration.
@@pirakoXX honeright is what Rob uses here. If you can't get that then any auto glass cleaner will do (if you're using diamond stoned only, not for oil or water stones). It's to prevent rust on the stones and not the tools. For tools, I just use light machine oil. Wipe it on with a rag and then wipe off with a clean one. Some use the Paul Sellers rag in a can method (look it up), but I find that if you don't use it regularly it dries out. You can also use wax if you want, but I tend to only use that on the sole of the plane to keep it running smoothly (without friction).
@@ricos1497 Thank you so much! I really appreciate all the knowledge you share with me.
Paul Sellers is also among my favorites.
Sadly, there are no elderly/experienced hobby woodworkers left in my village, and many of the materials (wax, oil, etc) used in English/American/Canadian channels are different brands from what we have here, or can be bought online, to a much higher price..
A little Fun-Fact:
"Danish Oil" doesn't come from Denmark, just like the American "Danish" (pastry) here in Denmark is called "Wiener bread" because it comes from Wien (in English = Vienna) in Austria!
Again, a huge thanks to you (y)
/Pia
Pia its called Honerite Gold. We sell it on our website. Here is a link to it robcosman.com/products/hone-rite-gold
Hi Rob! What is the minimum thickness a plane blade should have based on your knowledge/experience? Unfortunately common blade locally (Philippines) is 2mm, even if the blades are sharp, chip breaker's tuned, frog sitting tight and mouth has the correct allowance, there are times it digs deep and causes tear out. I want to be certain because it is not cheap to import tools.
I would not get anything less thick than around 0.100 of am inch thick, thicker is even better. A thick blade is your friend reduces vibration. Look at IBC, Hock, Lie Nielsen for thick blades
You were having fun!!! I have received no.4 Stanley bailey ( 19 i think) it's an old but new in its condition and i am intending to make it as a scrub plane. My problem with it that it's like new, no one have touch it and set it correctly the sole of the plane was just like Banana....i have started to flatten it and its very hard steel !!! ( Much harder than my other new planes) i have manege that the gap at the up to 5 mm from front of the plane is 0.1 mm and and at the back up to 6mm is 0.15mm. the rest of the sole is flatten. Are this gaps are good enough for a scrub plane? I can flat it but it will take a lot of time ( i am flattening it manually)...?
Yes. A scrub plane IS NOT a smoother. Its a rough plane so its bottom could be a banana
How can you easily spot the difference between the two? (A regular hand plane, and this scrub plane?)
Blade shape. But any plane can be converted to a scrub plane by just changing the shape of the blade and perhaps widening the mouth to allow for bigger shavings to pass through. It's fairly easy to do on a number 4. It helps to have a grinder for the blade shaping, or you can buy scrub blades to fit a number 4 I think. It's a good project if you have a spare hour or two and an old plane.
I disagree with Rico that any plane can be made into a scrub plane. A scrub plane is the axe of planes meaning its designed for removing a lot of material quickly. To do that you need a VERY thick blade and a blade with a small width. Many folks take an old vintage plane like a #4 with its thin and wide blade, grind a curve into it and use it as a scrub. Because of the thin and wider blade it cannot remove nearly the amount of material in a single pass that a true scrub plane can. It will work, especially in softer woods, but a scrub plan is much faster and better suited for scrubbing. It can remove why thicker material even in hardwoods. As for recognizing it, just look at the enlarged pic on the thumbnail of this video, that's a scrub plane
Modified my transitional Stanley to a scrub .. that wide mouth opening begged for it
Hi Rob, I thought your scrub was a Lie_Nielsen?
I believe his current one is. This is an excerpt of an older video
No, my scrub plane is a Pinnacle (WoodCraft) mated to an IBC blade. They’ve been discontinued for a couple years now.
👍👍👍
👌👌👌
That's a bulldozer!
yes it is