Had a plumber want to charge almost $400 for this work, but I’m a do it yourself guy and there’s no way I’m paying someone $400 for a $40 expansion tank. Thanks for saving me tons of money and the basics to swap this out! Great job buddy, keep it up!
Exactly - you pay for the experience and time, you also pay for the sourcing, picking up, delivery, fit and check of the product - kudos for doing yourself - but you’re paying as soon as the plumber answers his phone to you.
Came home to a hissing sound in the garage, a little water and air coming out of the exp tank. Glad I watched this video just to see if there were any steps I wasn’t aware of- glad I did as I wasn’t aware of pressuring the new one. Great vid, big help!
Good video,what I would have done in your place would have been to drain some water out of the water heater,after insuring that the power to the water heater was off of course,then I would have opened a hot water faucet to relieve the pressure so as not to end up withn a snoot full of water.It would also be a good idea to put a brace on that expansion tank to prevent the expansion tank from breaking the pipe in the event that the expansion tank becomes water logged.Testing the T&P relief valve like you did was also a very good move.Thank you for the video and God bless you and yours.
Totally agree….so many videos on expansion tanks fail to support the unit. If it should fail then the tank fills with water at 8 lbs per gallon. That places enormous strain on the fitting it’s connected to. All tanks should be anchored in my opinion.
Mannn thank you! A plumber wanted to charge me 500 bucks to replace this tank. I watched your video, bought the tank and replaced it myself! 50 bucks worth of material, thank you !
Great video, thank you. One suggestion if I may. Mention what is needed for the job in the beginning of the video, like tools and pressure gauges. Awesome video though keep it up!
Thanks for the informative video. Gotta replace mine tomorrow. It somehow developed a hole in the back (on a Saturday night of course) and my local big box was out of them (also of course). Getting one from a big box one town over tomorrow. This video was great. Thanks 🙏🏻
Thank you so much for this video!!! It helped my wife and I so much in changing our leaky tank. Our tank was stuck on there so tight due to all the pressure. It took a good hour just to work it loose. But thanks to your video the replacement took no time once I got the old tank off.
I woke up this morning to a tiny pinhole in the expansion tank spraying a fine mist of water all over the ceiling, wall, and storage shelves next to the water heater. You showed me it's as simple replace as it looks like it should be. And it's great to know about how much to pressurize the unit. One thing, though, is that my old expansion tank has a sticker that says not to tighten it using the body of the tank but rather to use a wrench. It says there is the potential for cracking the inlet by over torquing it. I think if the weld at the inlet is that fragile, something is wrong. But better safe than sorry, I suppose. Nice video - thanks!
In my opinion, it would be necessary to install a support for the expansion tank so that the pipe does not support its entire weight. On the other hand, it is also necessary to install an electrolytic union bushing between both parts.
That was easy. Didn’t have water pressure gauge so I went to 60 PSI on the tank. Heater is 87 gals and calls for the 4 gallon expansion tank. Had a 2 gallon that was cracked and full of black water. Hot water and pressure both good. Thanks! 👍
Why not bleed the pressure out of the expansion tank BEFORE unscrewing the tank from the hot water heater line - by depressing the bike-tire-type needle valve at bottom of expansion tank.
How would you bleed the expansion tank by pressing the needle if when you do, it shoots water? Just keep pressing it I guess until it doesn’t shoot water? Then you know it’s out of air?
how do you test , diagnose, or know the tank has failed, vs a potential limit switch failure for a tank that the T & P pressure relief valve has opened due to too hot/high pressure?
For best results, I would come off the horizontal tee with a 6 inch nipple then a 90 degree elbow facing up and the install the expansion tank vertically. Because if the rubber diaphragm should fail inside the tank and the tank has been installed horizontally there would be approximately 17 pounds of water in the tank. That would be a lot of pressure on the union. If it is installed horizontally, make sure it is supported with some good pipe hangers tape.
Thank you for this video. I watched several and this one answered my question. I was wondering if I needed to drain the water heater to add an expansion tank. You video showed me I did not need to drain the tank, but relieve the pressure. Thank you so much!!!
A couple of things you might want to consider: First, an expansion tank should always be independently supported. Even the small 2 gallon tanks will end up weighing 20+ pounds when in use, which is a lot of weight for your pipes to support. Second, the inlet should be either up or down, but never sideways. If you have the kind of installation shown, it would be best to mount the tank vertically on the nearby wall and run a couple of pieces of pipe over to it. Also, a cut-off valve might be a good addition since the tanks need to be replaced more frequently than anyone likes.
Learning so much about how things are done abroad, thank you for that. Maybe a good thing to add would be to point out that there is actually a right and wrong way to apply Teflon tape, just in case people were not aware.
We are about to change our in 15min...im slightly freaking out. Ours has a pinhole in it and we found our garage corner soaked and all that pressure shooting water out...im praying this goes ok
Thanks DIY guy. Thanks for the helpful video. One person put more air in badder opened a drain below to push all the water out of the expansion tank 🙂 . . . Don't forget that God loves you, DIY guy . . . You, love Him too! It's very important, thanks guy!
Hi my water pressure is bad up in the bathroom 🚽 room can you connect a pressure vessel pump to the copper cylinder from down stairs. I’m so do I have to get hot water pipe and cold water pipe or is it just the hot water pipe I need to connect I know a bit about plumbing so I thinking off doing it myself Thanks
For best longevity, shouldn't the expansion tank's water inlet be located at the bottom? Thus letting gravity assist in draining water back to the main water heater, as well as lessening the chance of rupturing the rubber bladder. As others have noted, you may also want to consider adding a wall-mounted expansion tank support, so as to not overstress the piping.
Why when i set the water temperature to 180 degrees my Hydronic boiler goes past 30 psi for a two family house.Should I change the expansion tank from Ex30 to a Ex60 expansion tank.
Why did u have to charge tank with air don’t they come pre charged and is there a reason that u charge with air want to replace mine it’s old fashioned one looks like I should be able to do it my self
I wish I had the arm strength to do this 😂. I’m trying with all I got to get this loose. Mine is upside down and in a small hole in the wall…..the bottom of the tank is about nose level at the back of the water heater and this hole 🤦🏻♀️
Checked house inlet supply valve water pressure at 95psi. Going to replace with a Watts-12-MI on a 50 gal. hot water tank. Will have to drain all water above tank as there is no cutoff valve to inlet of expansion tank. Looks like a tough problem. Tank is supported vertically by 3/4" incoming cold line to house, may have to support line with perf strap. Or should this be on the hot water line?
Going to install cutoff valve in from incoming water line after expansion tank to rest of house.also installed pressure regulator and check valve after incoming street line, then on to line with expansion tank. Will set regulator to 60 psi and also expansion tank.
Lots of comments about this man installing it wrong because it's in a horizontal position -major problem for DIY's is we always assume that the existing crap is correct. He's just replacing identically what was maybe installed by the builder/original owner incorrectly. I always view a few youtube videos to get a better feel to what has to be done. Preferably from some real plumbers in this case, although I sure can identify with "Spirit of the Handyman"!
Wish I saw this sooner. I just paid a plumber $530 to replace mine and I feel sick. It sprung a pin hole sized leak was spraying everywhere when I discovered it. I just kinda panicked. Anyway, great video and good to know for future reference.
@@reygood2024Yeah it was a bummer. I hope you can fix it yourself with the video. It doesn't seem too complicated. I would have done mine myself if I didn't have to work that day. Good luck to you!
Just popped a pinhole size leak on ours...🙄🙄...and it looks like there's another one ready to pop. We just moved in, too...looks like we will be making a trip to the local hardware store first thing in the morning (it's now 2 am 😓😓)
I have a vertical expansion tank on an electric heater. Everything runs fine now but I recently located a spare refrigerator next to the heater in the garage because of the incoming water line and I would like to connect the refrigerator ice make to that incoming line as well. I would tee off the incoming line into the ice maker. Are there any issues you can see teeing off right after the shut off valve and before the expansion tank?
I have 2 heaters so 2 expansion tanks on cold side. my city water pressure shows 60 psi but my expansion tank shows 55 psi and 75 psi. Is this problematic?
I thought you have to open hot water in faucet before you unscrewed the expansion tank; then install new expansion tank and then turn on cold water to let it runs until air burping out.
I'd recommend not relieving pressure on the relief valve as that will cause it to leak overtime as they don't settle after normally. Just release water out into a 5 gallon bucket and then pressure some air into expansion tank before u remove it so it pushes more water out and the water doesn't get all over yourself. Good video overall.
Just one suggestion... horizontal installations should be braced - you are putting a lot of weight on that joint. Vertical mounting is the preferred orientation if feasible for the physical location.
Plumber wanted to charge me $450 for this, the tank itself is like $50 wow, sure glad I did not pay him for it, thanks so much for a great video explaining it in awesome detail
@@beefsteaxnope not what I’m saying at all, he has a business and i can either pay him to do it for about $350 or I can do it for the cost of my time and materials.
It’s really only takes an hour of work. When did plumbers get to charge $350/hr. I went to school for 12 years and people die if I screw up and I only get to charge $250/hr.
I know I'm late to the dance but, you may have air in the lines. Also, seemingly stupid, however we all can get distracted, did you open all valves completely afterwards?
Probably should have opened a faucet to get rid of the water pressure ⚠️ My expansion tank orientation has air valve on bottom. Yours is vertical, and I’ve seen some where air valve was top side. So I guess any direction works. And this is next on the replacement.7-31-2021
@@SpiritofaHandyman you need to be downstream of the water pressure regulator. At my house the pressure coming from the main is at 100 psi and is regulated down to the standard 60 psi. I have an outdoor spigot upstream of the regulator that when measured, shows the incoming pressure from the street.
Need to support the tank's weight with a strap so it's not on the pipe connection. Also, if you are going to install one sideways, make sure the one you buy is allowed to be intsalled horizontally, most are vertical only.
(I know this comment is a year old) Q: for a vertical tank, would an elbow be advised? And why do most verticals get installed with the outlet facing up (water hanging below the piping) vs facing down, where gravity can push the water down if the bladder fails?
I do not install my tank like that. To me that's like putting a glass in the sink sideways the water runs right in it.needs to be upside down the same way as the glass in the sink won't let the water go inside underneath it.
Do all expansion tanks need to be filled with air before installing? My last plumber never did that part? When the plumber did mine in the past he literally just bought a tank and installed it. No pressure or air needed? Mine has been fine for years but recently sprung a little tiny hole in it which was leaking. I had a water shut off valuve on the cold side which my tank is on as well. So just shut that off. And now waiting for my father in law to come in the morning to change it out? Do all the tanks have to be pressurized or do some already come ready to go?
It depends on if you are installing it on a water heater or a furnace boiler. All these DIY folks are missing some vital information. You also need to consider the air you are admitting into the piping system and how to correct for that. That is why you pay more with an experienced plumber or HVAC person doing it. Everything you see on TH-cam or internet blogs are just the partial understanding of things by regular folks.
My wife told me she saw water on the floor by the water heater, so it’s 15 years old, figured needed a knew one, until i decided to check the expansion tank and found water came out instead of air. Fixed it right up for under 50 bucks
This is from www.fastwaterheater.com/water-heaters/articles/expansion-tanks-water-heaters/#:~:text=Does%20the%20expansion%20tank%20have,downstream%20of%20the%20shutoff%20valve. "Although expansion tanks can be installed on the hot side, we strongly recommend they be installed on the cold line, downstream of the shutoff valve."
My expansion tank failed, I suspect due to rust or something and the store isn't open after hours. What I need to know is how to bypass the hot water altogether so I can take a shower lol even if its just cold water.
that's not a thermal expansion tank; it is a vertical pressure tank for well pumps; just went thru a little bit of home work myself and now I have to replace it because installed the wrong tank.
Price update as of December 2023 same tank now cost $58 plus tax at Home Depot. Another goofball mistake by the homeowner tank should always be mounted with the air valve facing down not horizontally. Next time read the instructions on the tank. Before you replace, you should put a ball shut off valve before you install the tank that way in five years you won’t have to drain all the water down again. with the shut off valve above the tank and the tank mounted properly you shouldn’t spill a drop of water. And the whole installation would only take five minutes maximum.👨🔧
Maybe someone who knows more than me can help me on this one? When no water is running to anything in my house, my pressure shoots up to 150psi and water leeks from the pressure valve on the water heater. When someone turns on water in the house the pressure drops to only 50psi. As soon as the faucet is closed the pressure raises to 150psi again and the water leaks from the pressure re;ief valve again. I tried everything and need help.
@@robertratliff4348 Yeah mine had a new expansion tank on it, so I put a larger one on and still leaking. I do not understand the pressure in the cold line being 150 psi?
@@Morido-1 I figured the problem out. I had a bad pressure regulator. No matter what I did to it did not change the pressure in my house. After the regulator was changed, no more problems. Thank you for your help.
Bro that could have been alot worse,i respect you DIY your own projects,but please at least do a little more research before take something like this on.Im sure you know a plumber, ask a couple more questions. I only say that because if your teeth got knocked out,it would have sucked.You are completely capable of taking this on,but you should have known that there pressure in the system, and that could have been easily dealt with by releasing a small amount t of water,its always smart to do the relief valve as well.When you release some water from the tank,you relief this pressure. It can sometimes be difficult to remove some water,so you have to open the relief valve to open the sytem and i trounce air.Keel that in mymind to have a relief valve handy.But overall good job for itbeing your second one.When you show people that thiscan be a very easy job,which it can be,thats without seeing there applcation.Thats were it can get funky,all it takes is a bad valve,and thats were it turns from an easy job to a small plumbing project.
1:30 so i had a plumber quote me $800+ to replace this 🤬 im sorry, i know everyone needs to make a living, but that's ridiculous. Plus, i don't even think mine has failed yet. Not leaking, sounds fine.
Thank you sir! Somehow in every article I read I must have overlooked pressurizing the tank and would have missed that step if not for your video
Had a plumber want to charge almost $400 for this work, but I’m a do it yourself guy and there’s no way I’m paying someone $400 for a $40 expansion tank. Thanks for saving me tons of money and the basics to swap this out! Great job buddy, keep it up!
Exactly - you pay for the experience and time, you also pay for the sourcing, picking up, delivery, fit and check of the product - kudos for doing yourself - but you’re paying as soon as the plumber answers his phone to you.
"$400 for a $40 tank" lmao you have no idea how service works haha
@@carbonunit bull
@@Superboi100 I've been a service tec for 42 yrs and YOU sound like you haven't a CLUE! !
@@umpman04 this isn’t 1970 things cost money now
Came home to a hissing sound in the garage, a little water and air coming out of the exp tank. Glad I watched this video just to see if there were any steps I wasn’t aware of- glad I did as I wasn’t aware of pressuring the new one. Great vid, big help!
The expansion tank that you don't need failed
Good video,what I would have done in your place would have been to drain some water out of the water heater,after insuring that the power to the water heater was off of course,then I would have opened a hot water faucet to relieve the pressure so as not to end up withn a snoot full of water.It would also be a good idea to put a brace on that expansion tank to prevent the expansion tank from breaking the pipe in the event that the expansion tank becomes water logged.Testing the T&P relief valve like you did was also a very good move.Thank you for the video and God bless you and yours.
Great contributions!
Looks good. I would recommend adding a strap to prevent the tank from sagging and possibly breaking the water line.
7
Totally agree….so many videos on expansion tanks fail to support the unit. If it should fail then the tank fills with water at 8 lbs per gallon. That places enormous strain on the fitting it’s connected to. All tanks should be anchored in my opinion.
1
Mannn thank you! A plumber wanted to charge me 500 bucks to replace this tank. I watched your video, bought the tank and replaced it myself! 50 bucks worth of material, thank you !
Great video, thank you. One suggestion if I may. Mention what is needed for the job in the beginning of the video, like tools and pressure gauges. Awesome video though keep it up!
Thanks for the informative video. Gotta replace mine tomorrow. It somehow developed a hole in the back (on a Saturday night of course) and my local big box was out of them (also of course). Getting one from a big box one town over tomorrow. This video was great. Thanks 🙏🏻
Thank you so much for this video!!! It helped my wife and I so much in changing our leaky tank.
Our tank was stuck on there so tight due to all the pressure. It took a good hour just to work it loose.
But thanks to your video the replacement took no time once I got the old tank off.
😊
I woke up this morning to a tiny pinhole in the expansion tank spraying a fine mist of water all over the ceiling, wall, and storage shelves next to the water heater. You showed me it's as simple replace as it looks like it should be. And it's great to know about how much to pressurize the unit. One thing, though, is that my old expansion tank has a sticker that says not to tighten it using the body of the tank but rather to use a wrench. It says there is the potential for cracking the inlet by over torquing it. I think if the weld at the inlet is that fragile, something is wrong. But better safe than sorry, I suppose. Nice video - thanks!
In my opinion, it would be necessary to install a support for the expansion tank so that the pipe does not support its entire weight. On the other hand, it is also necessary to install an electrolytic union bushing between both parts.
It helps to let the pressure out of the original tank to avoid the spray when you take it off
Do you just do that by holding the Schrader valve to the side?
That was easy. Didn’t have water pressure gauge so I went to 60 PSI on the tank. Heater is 87 gals and calls for the 4 gallon expansion tank. Had a 2 gallon that was cracked and full of black water. Hot water and pressure both good. Thanks! 👍
At 5:15 the label on the new tank clearly says that it has been "pre-charged". Why then would you charge it yourself?
because the average expansion is 50-60psi and the one he showed said "pre-charged to 25 psi".
Great video sir but I wonder if installing the tank horizontally requires to support it or not. Thank you
Your video helps me save some money, thanks brother
Why horizontal? Change to vertical, or install support
Outstanding job.. Now I'll do mine ! ! ! Thank You ! ! ! !
LOL, you handled that well, keep up the good work.
Why not bleed the pressure out of the expansion tank BEFORE unscrewing the tank from the hot water heater line - by depressing the bike-tire-type needle valve at bottom of expansion tank.
YES!! This is a great idea! thanks for the share
How would you bleed the expansion tank by pressing the needle if when you do, it shoots water? Just keep pressing it I guess until it doesn’t shoot water? Then you know it’s out of air?
how do you test , diagnose, or know the tank has failed, vs a potential limit switch failure for a tank that the T & P pressure relief valve has opened due to too hot/high pressure?
For best results, I would come off the horizontal tee with a 6 inch nipple then a 90 degree elbow facing up and the install the expansion tank vertically. Because if the rubber diaphragm should fail inside the tank and the tank has been installed horizontally there would be approximately 17 pounds of water in the tank. That would be a lot of pressure on the union. If it is installed horizontally, make sure it is supported with some good pipe hangers tape.
Thank you for this video. I watched several and this one answered my question. I was wondering if I needed to drain the water heater to add an expansion tank. You video showed me I did not need to drain the tank, but relieve the pressure. Thank you so much!!!
Confirmation bias? You should drain some water to relieve some pressure, or do it from the tank.
Shouldn’t the expansion tank be mounted vertically? Helps to prevent breakage.
A couple of things you might want to consider: First, an expansion tank should always be independently supported. Even the small 2 gallon tanks will end up weighing 20+ pounds when in use, which is a lot of weight for your pipes to support. Second, the inlet should be either up or down, but never sideways.
If you have the kind of installation shown, it would be best to mount the tank vertically on the nearby wall and run a couple of pieces of pipe over to it. Also, a cut-off valve might be a good addition since the tanks need to be replaced more frequently than anyone likes.
My Eastman tank says that you can mount it horizontally
Learning so much about how things are done abroad, thank you for that. Maybe a good thing to add would be to point out that there is actually a right and wrong way to apply Teflon tape, just in case people were not aware.
JP Dawson good point! I’ll include that in my next plumbing post
Without water tank possible just install air tank directly at any cold water pipe connector? Tq
Is the expansion tanks on the hot water side or the cold?
Outstanding. I am going to try it. How do I know what size tank I need? I have a 50 gal. H.W. water tank.
Check out this helpful guide:
www.waterheaterleakinginfo.com/expansion-tanks/
We are about to change our in 15min...im slightly freaking out. Ours has a pinhole in it and we found our garage corner soaked and all that pressure shooting water out...im praying this goes ok
I have a pin hole in mine as well. How'd your replacement go?
Thanks DIY guy. Thanks for the helpful video. One person put more air in badder opened a drain below to push all the water out of the expansion tank 🙂 . . . Don't forget that
God loves you, DIY guy . . . You, love Him too! It's very important, thanks guy!
Hi my water pressure is bad up in the bathroom 🚽 room can you connect a pressure vessel pump to the copper cylinder from down stairs. I’m so do I have to get hot water pipe and cold water pipe or is it just the hot water pipe I need to connect I know a bit about plumbing so I thinking off doing it myself
Thanks
I’m not sure how to increase water pressure
Suggest, drain some water from tank, also open a hot water faucet in home to drain pipe
I had the same experience when I took out the old tank; water all over the place. PS: might need to support that tank to the top.
For best longevity, shouldn't the expansion tank's water inlet be located at the bottom? Thus letting gravity assist in draining water back to the main water heater, as well as lessening the chance of rupturing the rubber bladder. As others have noted, you may also want to consider adding a wall-mounted expansion tank support, so as to not overstress the piping.
Why when i set the water temperature to 180 degrees my Hydronic boiler goes past 30 psi for a two family house.Should I change the expansion tank from Ex30 to a Ex60 expansion tank.
Why did u have to charge tank with air don’t they come pre charged and is there a reason that u charge with air want to replace mine it’s old fashioned one looks like I should be able to do it my self
Really helpful!
Thanks, from a UK handyman.
Should you turn gas off?
thanks 🙏 im learning how to make my own 💪🏼✌🏻
Also, how is the water running when the shutoff valve is closed? Do you want to check the water pressure before starting to change out the tank?
I wish I had the arm strength to do this 😂. I’m trying with all I got to get this loose. Mine is upside down and in a small hole in the wall…..the bottom of the tank is about nose level at the back of the water heater and this hole 🤦🏻♀️
Checked house inlet supply valve water pressure at 95psi. Going to replace with a Watts-12-MI on a 50 gal. hot water tank. Will have to drain all water above tank as there is no cutoff valve to inlet of expansion tank. Looks like a tough problem. Tank is supported vertically by 3/4" incoming cold line to house, may have to support line with perf strap. Or should this be on the hot water line?
Going to install cutoff valve in from incoming water line after expansion tank to rest of house.also installed pressure regulator and check valve after incoming street line, then on to line with expansion tank. Will set regulator to 60 psi and also expansion tank.
Lots of comments about this man installing it wrong because it's in a horizontal position -major problem for DIY's is we always assume that the existing crap is correct. He's just replacing identically what was maybe installed by the builder/original owner incorrectly.
I always view a few youtube videos to get a better feel to what has to be done. Preferably from some real plumbers in this case, although I sure can identify with "Spirit of the Handyman"!
Wish I saw this sooner. I just paid a plumber $530 to replace mine and I feel sick. It sprung a pin hole sized leak was spraying everywhere when I discovered it. I just kinda panicked. Anyway, great video and good to know for future reference.
Damn, that's expensive. I got a pin hole leak last night on my expansion tank too. I'm hoping these diy videos save me some money.
@@reygood2024Yeah it was a bummer. I hope you can fix it yourself with the video. It doesn't seem too complicated. I would have done mine myself if I didn't have to work that day. Good luck to you!
Just popped a pinhole size leak on ours...🙄🙄...and it looks like there's another one ready to pop. We just moved in, too...looks like we will be making a trip to the local hardware store first thing in the morning (it's now 2 am 😓😓)
Looks good. How has it held up? Use a tripod a bit more to get rid of the shake.
So far so good!
So if a house had no expansion tank on it's water heater and it's gas, is this a bad thing??
I have a vertical expansion tank on an electric heater. Everything runs fine now but I recently located a spare refrigerator next to the heater in the garage because of the incoming water line and I would like to connect the refrigerator ice make to that incoming line as well. I would tee off the incoming line into the ice maker. Are there any issues you can see teeing off right after the shut off valve and before the expansion tank?
That's an excellent question. I will resort to any plumbers out here who can chime in as I do not know the answer
I have 2 heaters so 2 expansion tanks on cold side. my city water pressure shows 60 psi but my expansion tank shows 55 psi and 75 psi. Is this problematic?
I don't think the 55psi is a problem but maybe the 75 is. I'll let a licensed plumber weigh in
Is it important to do the pressure thing I don't have one of those air pumps?
He said a bike pump would work, but I’d maybe take it to a gas station that has free air?
Use a bike pump...it shouldn't take a whole lot to add
I thought you have to open hot water in faucet before you unscrewed the expansion tank; then install new expansion tank and then turn on cold water to let it runs until air burping out.
Now, we do nothing in the house without singing your intro song.
I laughed hard when I saw the pictogram of the water shooting out onto the guys face, it's exactly what you did wrong!😆
I'd recommend not relieving pressure on the relief valve as that will cause it to leak overtime as they don't settle after normally.
Just release water out into a 5 gallon bucket and then pressure some air into expansion tank before u remove it so it pushes more water out and the water doesn't get all over yourself.
Good video overall.
Did he really say its Plug and Play? HAHAHA AWESOME! Love it!
Just one suggestion... horizontal installations should be braced - you are putting a lot of weight on that joint. Vertical mounting is the preferred orientation if feasible for the physical location.
your vent does not look right, are you sure you do not have back draft?
Plumber wanted to charge me $450 for this, the tank itself is like $50 wow, sure glad I did not pay him for it, thanks so much for a great video explaining it in awesome detail
@@beefsteaxnope not what I’m saying at all, he has a business and i can either pay him to do it for about $350 or I can do it for the cost of my time and materials.
It’s really only takes an hour of work. When did plumbers get to charge $350/hr. I went to school for 12 years and people die if I screw up and I only get to charge $250/hr.
😂 grammar was never my thing
How do you check the water pressure within your house if you do not have a threaded faucet to attached the air gauge to?
Screw it on to the hose bib outside. It’s all the same pressurized system.
I replaced my expansion tank today and ever since I’m not getting any hot water or pressure…any ideas what’s wrong?
I know I'm late to the dance but, you may have air in the lines. Also, seemingly stupid, however we all can get distracted, did you open all valves completely afterwards?
Thanks man!!!!! Super helpful
Did he read the manufactures instal suggestion?
There are lots of great handi men those are to one's that find out from a plumber the correct technique and specifications.
Probably should have opened a faucet to get rid of the water pressure ⚠️
My expansion tank orientation has air valve on bottom. Yours is vertical, and I’ve seen some where air valve was top side. So I guess any direction works. And this is next on the replacement.7-31-2021
Not meant to be installed horizontally
Thanks!
How come we dont have this expansion tank at home🤔
Thanks for making it easy! Saving moolah is awesome!
Thank you!
Maybe a stupid question, but does it matter if I fill it with water from the filling valve or just by opening the incoming water to the "circuit"?
I think the answer is to fill it by adding it to the circuit, but I'm not quite sure I follow what you mean
@@SpiritofaHandyman you need to be downstream of the water pressure regulator. At my house the pressure coming from the main is at 100 psi and is regulated down to the standard 60 psi. I have an outdoor spigot upstream of the regulator that when measured, shows the incoming pressure from the street.
Need to support the tank's weight with a strap so it's not on the pipe connection. Also, if you are going to install one sideways, make sure the one you buy is allowed to be intsalled horizontally, most are vertical only.
(I know this comment is a year old)
Q: for a vertical tank, would an elbow be advised? And why do most verticals get installed with the outlet facing up (water hanging below the piping) vs facing down, where gravity can push the water down if the bladder fails?
I do not install my tank like that. To me that's like putting a glass in the sink sideways the water runs right in it.needs to be upside down the same way as the glass in the sink won't let the water go inside underneath it.
Very helpful thanks
Great video I watched it went bought a tank and did it 30 minutes or less
Going to install my first one at restarant
Do all expansion tanks need to be filled with air before installing? My last plumber never did that part?
When the plumber did mine in the past he literally just bought a tank and installed it. No pressure or air needed?
Mine has been fine for years but recently sprung a little tiny hole in it which was leaking.
I had a water shut off valuve on the cold side which my tank is on as well. So just shut that off. And now waiting for my father in law to come in the morning to change it out?
Do all the tanks have to be pressurized or do some already come ready to go?
It depends on if you are installing it on a water heater or a furnace boiler. All these DIY folks are missing some vital information. You also need to consider the air you are admitting into the piping system and how to correct for that. That is why you pay more with an experienced plumber or HVAC person doing it. Everything you see on TH-cam or internet blogs are just the partial understanding of things by regular folks.
I checked the air pressure in my expansion tank and only water came out lol. Time to replace it after all it is at least 18 years old.
My wife told me she saw water on the floor by the water heater, so it’s 15 years old, figured needed a knew one, until i decided to check the expansion tank and found water came out instead of air. Fixed it right up for under 50 bucks
Very important to let anyone know that the tank is very heavy when filled with water.
it would be wise to add a expansion vessel coupling. next time the replacement would even be easier
Thanks for the great video tutorial. 👍🏻🍻
I just thought I would ask you if you ever set up an expansion tank when it was never installed.
I don’t suppose so
Okay i gave a like for the intro alone lol
Great video you just need to let the people removing the tank how heavy it is when full of water be careful when doing this.
Can i install expansion tank on the hot side? or it has to be on the cold side? Thanks
This is from www.fastwaterheater.com/water-heaters/articles/expansion-tanks-water-heaters/#:~:text=Does%20the%20expansion%20tank%20have,downstream%20of%20the%20shutoff%20valve.
"Although expansion tanks can be installed on the hot side, we strongly recommend they be installed on the cold line, downstream of the shutoff valve."
My expansion tank failed, I suspect due to rust or something and the store isn't open after hours. What I need to know is how to bypass the hot water altogether so I can take a shower lol even if its just cold water.
All I would recommend is to remind viewers to open the shutoff valve when you're all done.
that's not a thermal expansion tank; it is a vertical pressure tank for well pumps; just went thru a little bit of home work myself and now I have to replace it because installed the wrong tank.
Anyone get sputtering in their sinks after replacing?
Purge the air from the system via pressure valve or faucets.
Thermal tank should be vertically installed
Price update as of December 2023 same tank now cost $58 plus tax at Home Depot. Another goofball mistake by the homeowner tank should always be mounted with the air valve facing down not horizontally. Next time read the instructions on the tank. Before you replace, you should put a ball shut off valve before you install the tank that way in five years you won’t have to drain all the water down again. with the shut off valve above the tank and the tank mounted properly you shouldn’t spill a drop of water. And the whole installation would only take five minutes maximum.👨🔧
Just had a quote of $500 to do this! Needless to say, I'll be doing this myself
Terlalu tinggi bos angin nya settingan pas 2 psi di bawah tekanan on nya pompa
I was told they can’t go on their side .....
Lmao,love it
GOGGLES and relieve pressure first!!!
Maybe someone who knows more than me can help me on this one? When no water is running to anything in my house, my pressure shoots up to 150psi and water leeks from the pressure valve on the water heater. When someone turns on water in the house the pressure drops to only 50psi. As soon as the faucet is closed the pressure raises to 150psi again and the water leaks from the pressure re;ief valve again. I tried everything and need help.
I had the same problem, added a expansion tank and corrected it
@@robertratliff4348 Yeah mine had a new expansion tank on it, so I put a larger one on and still leaking. I do not understand the pressure in the cold line being 150 psi?
@@tomclark3592 look fir the water pressure adjustment valve in your city water inlet and dial it down to 60.
@@Morido-1 I figured the problem out. I had a bad pressure regulator. No matter what I did to it did not change the pressure in my house. After the regulator was changed, no more problems. Thank you for your help.
I’ll change the expansion tank
Should always wear goggles when working on any project . Pressured water can pierce you retina. It s same warning on using your pressure wa sher….
Give support to expension vessel
Bro that could have been alot worse,i respect you DIY your own projects,but please at least do a little more research before take something like this on.Im sure you know a plumber, ask a couple more questions. I only say that because if your teeth got knocked out,it would have sucked.You are completely capable of taking this on,but you should have known that there pressure in the system, and that could have been easily dealt with by releasing a small amount t of water,its always smart to do the relief valve as well.When you release some water from the tank,you relief this pressure. It can sometimes be difficult to remove some water,so you have to open the relief valve to open the sytem and i trounce air.Keel that in mymind to have a relief valve handy.But overall good job for itbeing your second one.When you show people that thiscan be a very easy job,which it can be,thats without seeing there applcation.Thats were it can get funky,all it takes is a bad valve,and thats were it turns from an easy job to a small plumbing project.
It was in the wrong orientation
1:30 so i had a plumber quote me $800+ to replace this 🤬 im sorry, i know everyone needs to make a living, but that's ridiculous. Plus, i don't even think mine has failed yet. Not leaking, sounds fine.