7 years later & your video is still helping people, I have Exactly the same problem you had, so using my phone I'm taking some photos and tomorrow heading to Lowe's or Home Depot, it all looks easy enough, by the way my plumber wanted $1,250. Thank You!
Thanks for posting this video because I went down to my crawl space and water was on the floor and it was overflowing the Rubbermaid bin I had under the relief valve. I tried opening the valve and water came out of course but it wasn’t the problem. I purchased the valve, relief tank, and a six inch 3/4 threaded pipe for $62 at Lowe’s. My valve was right against my boiler so I extended it. I drained the system and not much came out. Took off the valve and some water came out. I took off the tank and it was heavy like yours. Full of water. Replaced both the valve and tank and turned everything back on and I put a hose on the valve and put the hose into a 30 gallon Rubbermaid bin and all is good. Thank you so much for posting this video. I probably saved a thousand dollars
Thank you so much for this video. It showed up in google when I searched for faulty radiant furnace pressure relief valve. I would have only replaced the valve, but after watching this, I replaced the overflow tank, relief valve, and added a new pressure and temp gauge. It all seems simple to replace, but I would have run into so many gotchas if I had not watched this video. It made the repairs painless and a saved me a lot of money. One thing I would add, is to mention tools needed. My furnace was old and I spent half a can of WD-40 on the parts 24 hours before doing the work, and bought some heavy duty plumber wrenches and other wrenches that only set me back about $40. It made removing the old parts much easier.
Thank you man, this video was actually the best video I could find on how to replace the PRV. Lot of master plumbers on youtube but you explain it even better than them. Saved me a few hundred bucks and learned a lot about my boiler at the same time so thanks again.
PSA: Do not play with the relief valve if you do not have a new one ready to go, and you suspect the relief valve might be broken. I lifted it and closed it per 1:13, it would not stop gushing water afterwards since I think there was some blockage that helped it keep the pressure. After the blockage was cleared from opening the valve, the valve won't close properly since it's a faulty valve. Now I'm just sitting at home waiting for the new relief valve to arrive, without heat or hot water. Sigh.
@@iko3 hope you found a replacement! When I took the old one off, it was full of rust and the gasket had hardened and gritty. After replacing it, it took me a while to get the air out of the system. I did not understand that procedure, did not do it correctly, water wouldn't circulate, and my air vent (often called a Hy Vent) was leaking. I ended up having to call a pro and he purged the air out of the system by hooking a garden hose to the drain valve, running that garden hose into a sink, and opening and closing the fill valves in all the furnace zones until all the air was out.
Looking down on the tank wind the tape clockwise. Looking up from under the tank it would be counter clockwise. You don’t want the end of the tape leading it will likely catch and start to unwind itself. This guy did it backwards.
The man saved $1000 instead of people commenting about that the professional wanna be so called plumbers that scam people everyday are commenting about how he put the Teflon on backwards, unbelievable.
Just wanted to say a huge thank you for making this video. Replacing these two parts today fixed my exact issue. I know there are other videos out on TH-cam detailing this same problem but I appreciate yours because it was interested but also very straight to the point. Some of the other videos offering this same fix at almost 30 minutes long. Too long for my taste. Cheers!
I have to thank you so much DIYeasycrafts!!! My releasing valve kept leaking water for past two weeks. I intended to just replace the valve until I saw the Video. I did exactly what you did on the video. My expansion tank filled with filthy water. If I did not watch your video I would tried only to replace the releasing valve and of course it would not solve the problem. I spend overall less than $60 and got the problem solved! TH-cam provides amazing platform for these amazing people and amazing videos. How would I do the DIY without it?! Thanks again. Please keep the great work!
I have zero knowledge of water heater system. Their video help me figure out how to reset my pressure relief valve. Thank you thank you 🙏 for helping me out. Great video!!!
I wanted to say thank you i fixed my furnace by watching your video and I was leaking 5 gallons a day out of it ! The relief valve went but changed the expansion tank as well ! Worked great !
Good day and happy New yr so I'm a women and I didn't know to much about burners so a technician came out and when he left my burner was dripping water it's a new burner and there was something running looking at your video gave me confidence to move that pressure valve no more dripping water some people like to try to get over on women that are not knowledgeable thank you Meltona
thanks! it was exactly what I needed. replaced everything for less than $125. A service call for someone to come out was at least $100 not including parts and replacing the relief valve.
Good video with some missing steps. I just had to pay $125 just for the guy to show up. Expansion tank needed pressure. Caused relief valve to blow. He replaced relief valve (preventative maintenance?) and added air to the expansion tank (1.5lb to 15 lb.)! $206.85! Didn't help that the house is on East coast and I'm in L.A.
Thanks so much for sharing this video, That was exactly what my boiler needed. Once I bought the expansion tank and pressure relief valve, I was able to replace the parts in about 15 minutes. Thanks again, may God bless you and your family
Update: I replaced everything and it seems to be fine. I was waiting on a guy to come since last year and he's actually someone I know. Nice to be able to do it myself! Thanks for the video, it gave me the confidence to do it!
Nicely done! Plumbers are ridiculous with this quotes,I always do this repairs myself just like you,safes money,you learn it’s fun 🙏🏻thanks for sharing so other home owners do it themselves
Very informative and should help me in my project. I have a leaking pressure relief valve on a home I just purchased. Thank you very much for taking the time to do this video!
Thank you!!!! I really needed to see 1:25!! I didn’t understand what other people meant when they say that I should try to flush it first. I was turning it sideways and nothing was happening.
This is a useful tip video... thanks for posting it. I had to do this several months ago. You may want to add an annotation about charging the dry side of the expansion tank to match the working pressure of the system. My understanding is that it isn't an absolutely necessary step, but a recommended step (I am not a plumber).
I got this done just today. I was also wondering about the proper pressure during my research, and it seems the tank for furnaces are generally 12 psig (pre-charged, usually 2 gallon tanks specific for this application) and this is specified on the boiler itself. People looking to do this should check to see if this is the case for their gas furnace. I almost bought a tank used the for hot water heater (pre-charged to 30,40 psi) mainly because most of the videos on youtube deals with water heaters (and not many on furnaces) and i assumed wrongly that they were the same application. And the ones they sell at home depot and the like do not have the 2 gallon tanks made for furnaces in their inventory - you'd most likely have to order online as i did. And yup, my tank was filled with water (11 years old furnace); when the furnace starts off cold, the pressure rises over 30 and the relief valve spat out some water for the past week or so. No problems after the reinstall - pressure at 20 throughout.
Great video... it's unbelievable something so specific like this video exists... but this is EXACTLY this issue I am having and this is the solution. I have a maintenance agreement so someone else may do this, but I feel better when I know what they should be doing. Awesome! Thanks! (So, the repairman came today and this is exactly what he did... he started to explain and I said... "I already know" and we had a good laugh! I told him about the video!)
This guy is knowledgeable enough to make this video and give out dangerous information, that water when you're letting it out from the relief valve could be scalding hot and burn you instantly and what happens if the relief valve does not seat back right in your going to have scalding hot water spraying out?. Could also just be the pressure reducing valve and it can also be a coil inside the boiler if it is leaking in putting domestic water into the boiler into the boiler hence having the relief valve leak
Really great video! Thank you for simplifying and getting right to the point. Learned a lot about my system and definitely saved me some money. Really appreciate this feed.
Position monkey wrench with its "nose tips" pointing in desired direction . You had them facing you as you were pushing for removal of valve. Also proper diameter pipe over handle of wrench will increase the leverage and make it easier to remove the valve as it might be too tight due to rust or possible prior over tightening. ( this trick also works for lug wrench use when trying to remove lugs from tire rim. This kind of leverage makes it a whole lot easier ! )
Thank You your video is awesome and it really made my day happy. I have been having a really hard time furnace broke, hot water heater broke, also washer broke, between hot water heater, and washer I have water every where, I'm disabled broken lungs! Limited funds so I'm unable to call perfessionals. Now I know I can take care of this hot water thing myself, and I am so happy. Thank you! Thank you!! Thank You!!!
Noticed that the PRV on our 10 yr. old Pennco has been leaking - and - have noticed water at the top of the Taco air scoop (which sits above the expansion tank). Will replace both. Many Thanks for posting.
Just an fyi for anyone attempting to do this repair on their own, code states on a boiler that the relief valve Must be mounted vertically on a boiler. In this video the relief valve is on a nipple coming out the side of the boiler and in the event there is not a tapping on the top of the boiler, a 90 would have to be added to the nipple to mount the relief valve correctly then nipple, 90, and pipe to floor within 6" to prevent anyone from getting hurt in the event of a relief valve blowing off. This was a great video, just wanted to add some clarity. Thanks
Gotta fill the expansion tank with air to match the pressure of your water in the house. It comes pre-pressurized but only at about 12PSI. other words great video 👍
So if my house pressure is 40 psi charge it to that? Or what comes after the pressure reducing valve which is factory set for 12 psi that would match the new tank at 12 psi pre charged?
Between the video and some of the comments, a lot of incorrect and/or misleading information. One person mentioned that the tank comes precharged with probably 30 psi of air and that you should pump it up to your incoming city water pressure. WRONG! Not for a boiler that is set up to run typically around 12 to 15 psi.(It is set up with a pressure reducing valve. This guy was think a water heater. The video had some good advice relative to releasing a little water from the P&T valve. As sometimes it's just a bit of dirt or the like that gets hung up in the valve preventing it to close properly. The expansion tanks vary a bit in design due to age but typically all the newer tanks are equipped with a diaphragm within the tank separating the air side from the water side. The air side is equipped with a schrader valve which allows one to add air. The tank could have been water logged due to a number of reasons. some that would require you to replace the tank and others where you could simply correct the problem. For example: ruptured diaphragm= requires replacement. Loss of air due to possibly a leaky schrader valve.= Replace air valve and refill with air to recommended pressure. And yes to those that mentioned the direction of putting on the Teflon tape, there is a preferred direction but it still works either way. Won't get into details here. There certainly are many minor items that can and do get fixed by DIY'ers but there can be unknowns that could get you into trouble. You can't believe everything you see or hear on youtube but it is a good source of info, just be careful. As far as plumbing advice, there are Plumbing Forums that have professionals that try to help you out. Excellent source of information. But even then, there are differences of opinions but that's everywhere in life. "Measure 3 times and cut once." ;-)
Well I have a 2 family home with 2 identical boilers and one that the relief is not blowing off is a 60 psi and the other a 30 psi rating that is blowing off. Now mind you these are large cast iron radiator hydronic systems. Explain that and you can come to my house to repair it...lol
@@renrut0 ask the guy who made this video he knows everything, if you want the actual answer pay a professional. Other than that its a fairly obvious answer with 20 plus years of hvac, but who wants to pay for that
The expansion tank needs air to allow for expansion and contraction of the water from the water heater. Before replacing the tank, check the air pressure using a tire gauge.
CAUTION: You need to FILL SLOWLY because quickly introducing cold water can possibly cause the BOILER TO CRACK- this is usually on a steam boiler more than hot water boiler because steam units run hotter. Steam is made at 212° and HW is usually set at a max of 190° (more like 170-180°) Hopefully ppl see this WARNING. “Rip off” might not be the best statement but they do charge outrageous rates often and if they truly quoted a thousand bucks that is a rip off!
You wrapped the teflon tape on the pipe in the wrong direction .It should be wrapped in clock-wise direction on the male threads(with pipe or male fitting in your left hand)this allows the tape to stay on the threads when tightening.
Thank you very much for theis informative video, I'm having this exact problem right now and was kinda nervous about doing it. Now I just have to go get the parts and do what you did! Thanks!
Don’t forget to bleed the air out of your boiler as you’re refilling it. Do this using the blow off relief valve you just replaced as it is at the highest point internally in the water jacket of the boiler.
The only way to bleed air out is have it up to temp , you can put an automatic bleeder . The best is right after the boiler where the expansion tank is . But the very highest point
I’m surprised your Teflon tape didn’t unravel as you threaded that tank back on to the boiler, you always wrap your tap clockwise which you did not, to properly refill your boiler with water you need to purge the air out of the system if you don’t you won’t have any heat, open the boiler drain and let it run until all the air bubbles are out of the pipes and the water returning to the boiler is coming back hot, also worth noting is that all expansion tanks have water in them you’ll know your tank is bad if it’s full of water, the bottom of the tank should have air and the top should have water in it, they will go bad and need to be replaced, to find out if your tank is bad tap on it
"open the boiler drain and let it run until all the air bubbles are out of the pipes and the water returning to the boiler is coming back hot," You do this when the boiler is running?
I'm sure someone has probably already said this but just in case they didn't you might want to put new Teflon tape on that expansion tank because you went in the wrong direction, otherwise a great video 👌
Sometimes its the pressure reducing valve thats bad and lets to much water in and pops the expansion tank which causes the relief valve to open and leak out because there is to much water pressure in the system . sometimes there is nothing wrong with the relief valve its just doing its job and is telling you something else is not.
Yes. However, the brand usually comes pressurized at 12 psi. However, 15 - 20 psi when hot is quite common, so he should have checked the system psi, and add to the tank if higher.
While the basis of this video is informative there is a bit more information that is handy. You can determine if the tank is bad. Press the schrader valve on the tank. If you get water the tank needs to be replaced. If not it may just need an air charge, usually to 12 psi without water pressure o the tank. If you get water it will be heavy. You can lighten it before removal by drilling a hole in the bottom of the tank and pre-draining it. Of course the boiler water will have to be turned off and pressure removed from the boiler. This is not a step by step plan. The pressure relief valve must be installed in a vertical position. This means the stem of the valve will be vertical not horizontal. The reasons behind this is 1) it is code and 2) keeps the seat of the valve cleaner and 3) extends the life of the valve.
The plumber who gave you that estimate is a thief. Also you never purged the air out of the zone loops if you start the boiler without doing that correctly and you allow the circulator pump to run dry or air lock you will be replacing that too. You must purge the air out of the loops, not the bottom of the boiler.
Does the bladder in the pressure tank come pre-filled to the correct pressure? Shouldn't one confirm its PSI with a tire pressure gauge to ensure proper system pressure?
yes you should inflate the bladder to match the system pressure of the boiler, shown on the dial. It fluctuates but it should always be a little higher than the highest point it goes. My system maxes out at 20psi when fully heated, so my expansion tank bladder is set to about 21-22 psi.
Do I need to close the vales coming in from the house side or will they remain full? Thank you. They are in rough shape and I'd like to leave them if possible
Thanks again for the very good explaining and easy to follow detail! When shutting off the water supply to the boiler, and draining the system, is it necessary to close off the ball valves entering and returning the heating zones? What I mean is, would the water from the entire system upstairs drain (by gravity)? (I have a two story home with four heating zones and a fifth zone to a hot water tank).
Thanks. Relief valve and expansion tank were screw-off/screw-on easy fixes once I knew how to drain the boiler. However, my pressure is high and, from what I'm told, this could happen again?
I have the same problem at my furnace, so my plumber changed the valve and expansion tank but it was still leaking and keeping the pressure high. So he thought the valve was defective and he changed it again but same issue. After one day it start dripping again. Any suggestion?
Question tho , is the pressure valve suppose to be warm to the touch ? Mine I can’t see if water leak es because the pipe is fed back into the wall and don’t know where it goes .
Plumbers quote was high and this is a best case scenario for a home owner doing himself, many boilers pipes and valves are rusted in and MOST homeowners who attempt this will quickly be in over their heads.
My problem was that low pressure in expansion tank caused reliet valve to blow(?). They replaced valve (and added pressure to exp. tank!) because, I was told, they often don't reseat properly.
Not only plumbers charge too much, but in some cases they simply guess and try to replace parts as much as they can. I am more interested in plumbers who can truly diagnose a problem. Most of the boiler issues can be easily resolved by DIY
Did you put you gas on Pilot or turn it completely OFF? I would think that once the water is drained your would not want to have any gas on at all to overheat. I just bought the same valve and want to replace my old leaking one. the connecting pip on mine is straight up and not on the side like yours. Comments / suggestions welcome from all.
One thing I learned the hard way. Avoid making deals with plumbers under the the table. Most will RIP you off. I had a plumber worked on my boiler. Every week almost the whole winter months my boiler broke down. Each trip he came back with boiler parts from igniter to gas valve to pressure relief valve an boiler would work for 2 days. He kept telling me that my boiler would explode if he does not replace needed parts. My hands were tied cause I could not call the company he work for and had to come up with $300_$400 for parts plus installation to a point where he literally replaced most of the boiler part. When my cost went close to $5000 I called a legitimate company that fitted my old boiler with new expansion tank and never had problems with it anymore.
My pressure release valve blew off sending out hot steaming water all over my boiler room ,should i replace just that valve or i have to do both expansion tank and pressure valve ?
@@phill3583 i had the valve open that was connected to the expansion tank letting in more than 30psi that cause the pressure release valve to pop ,i had some maintance done to the system and i guess that was my error . i replaced the pressure release valve and the system is working fine now , but i am not sure if to change the expansion tank .i test it and at first water came out ,now its only air but the tank feels heavy .what do you think i should do ? i have a new tank but i did swap it yet . should i swap it ?
@@premrajvish You should have one valve supplying domestic water from the street to the boiler. This should be a pressure regulated feed valve. This valve should supply 12 psi to the system with the force fill lever in the normal operating position when cold. There should be a gate valve before the fill valve to shut the water supply off. With the system cold, close the shut off valve. Bleed the system down to under 12 psi using a bleed valve, not the pressure relief valve. Now turn the shut off valve back on. The system should pressurize back to 12 psi cold with the force fill lever in the normal operating position. If it goes up to 30, your feed valve is bypassing. If it maintains 12 psi, turn the system on. If the pressure climbs up to 30 psi while the system is getting hot, your expansion tank isn't compensating. Expansion tank air pressure should be 12 psi when cold.
@@phill3583 i just had the chance to check the tank and a little bit of air comes out and also water , so i am assuming the tank is not bad and should be replaced . do you agreed ?
Over time the tank diaphragm can leak allowing the air to escape and be replaced by water. However the air inlet valve located at the bottom of this style of tank can also leak causing a loss of cushion resulting in the over pressure valve to leak even though it's in good shape. The way to check for a leaking bladder is to simply depress the inlet valve and see if water comes out, if NO water comes out check the pressure in the tank with a air pressure gauge and correct it to your usual operating pressure to keep most of the water out of the tank, you may have to do this several times if the tank is full of water and is easier if the over pressure valve is bled off. There are pressure tanks that are non bladder that only have air with the inlet on the bottom and they should also be pressurized with air ( maybe 18 lbs ) to keep more of the tank empty of water for a larger cushion and less chance of the over pressure valve leaking.
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7 years later & your video is still helping people, I have Exactly the same problem you had, so using my phone I'm taking some photos and tomorrow heading to Lowe's or Home Depot, it all looks easy enough, by the way my plumber wanted $1,250. Thank You!
Thanks for posting this video because I went down to my crawl space and water was on the floor and it was overflowing the Rubbermaid bin I had under the relief valve. I tried opening the valve and water came out of course but it wasn’t the problem. I purchased the valve, relief tank, and a six inch 3/4 threaded pipe for $62 at Lowe’s. My valve was right against my boiler so I extended it. I drained the system and not much came out. Took off the valve and some water came out. I took off the tank and it was heavy like yours. Full of water. Replaced both the valve and tank and turned everything back on and I put a hose on the valve and put the hose into a 30 gallon Rubbermaid bin and all is good. Thank you so much for posting this video. I probably saved a thousand dollars
Thank you so much for this video. It showed up in google when I searched for faulty radiant furnace pressure relief valve. I would have only replaced the valve, but after watching this, I replaced the overflow tank, relief valve, and added a new pressure and temp gauge. It all seems simple to replace, but I would have run into so many gotchas if I had not watched this video. It made the repairs painless and a saved me a lot of money. One thing I would add, is to mention tools needed. My furnace was old and I spent half a can of WD-40 on the parts 24 hours before doing the work, and bought some heavy duty plumber wrenches and other wrenches that only set me back about $40. It made removing the old parts much easier.
That is awesome. Glad video was useful
@@DIYeasycrafts It was great, and I also posted it on my FB page here: facebook.com/PraviHrvatski
Thank you man, this video was actually the best video I could find on how to replace the PRV. Lot of master plumbers on youtube but you explain it even better than them. Saved me a few hundred bucks and learned a lot about my boiler at the same time so thanks again.
PSA: Do not play with the relief valve if you do not have a new one ready to go, and you suspect the relief valve might be broken. I lifted it and closed it per 1:13, it would not stop gushing water afterwards since I think there was some blockage that helped it keep the pressure. After the blockage was cleared from opening the valve, the valve won't close properly since it's a faulty valve. Now I'm just sitting at home waiting for the new relief valve to arrive, without heat or hot water. Sigh.
Did the same thing :)
@@mgrohman I did the same thing and now I have water coming out. LOL!
@@iko3 hope you found a replacement! When I took the old one off, it was full of rust and the gasket had hardened and gritty. After replacing it, it took me a while to get the air out of the system. I did not understand that procedure, did not do it correctly, water wouldn't circulate, and my air vent (often called a Hy Vent) was leaking. I ended up having to call a pro and he purged the air out of the system by hooking a garden hose to the drain valve, running that garden hose into a sink, and opening and closing the fill valves in all the furnace zones until all the air was out.
Good advice
haha same so far its constant drip and still have hot water but ya thinking it needs to be replaced.
Wind your Teflon tape the same direction as you screw the valve/tank on. You did it reverse. Will seal better that way.
That's right. I was going to comment the same thing.
No you wind the tape on in the opposite direction to which you will be screwing the vessel on.
Looking down on the tank wind the tape clockwise. Looking up from under the tank it would be counter clockwise. You don’t want the end of the tape leading it will likely catch and start to unwind itself. This guy did it backwards.
@@johnbower I'm glad I'm not the only one to notice that.
Of course you could just use pipe dope like a big boy & not have to worry about the Teflon tape coming off.
The man saved $1000 instead of people commenting about that the professional wanna be so called plumbers that scam people everyday are commenting about how he put the Teflon on backwards, unbelievable.
Exactly gyver. Lol.
Teflon tape should go in the direction to be threaded in not a huge deal so long as it doesn't leak thats what really matter
Just wanted to say a huge thank you for making this video. Replacing these two parts today fixed my exact issue. I know there are other videos out on TH-cam detailing this same problem but I appreciate yours because it was interested but also very straight to the point. Some of the other videos offering this same fix at almost 30 minutes long. Too long for my taste. Cheers!
Thank you !! This video helped me fix my heating system and get it going again - saved my a lot of money in Plumbers fees !!
Glad it helped
Same. Thank you!
You went straight to the problem. Explained problem. Showed how to solve problem. Finished work with out any Corny side tracking Jokes . Thanks
Just watched this, November of 2024 .. still coming in handy for someone. Great video, thanks
Glad it helped!
I have to thank you so much DIYeasycrafts!!!
My releasing valve kept leaking water for past two weeks. I intended to just replace the valve until I saw the Video. I did exactly what you did on the video. My expansion tank filled with filthy water. If I did not watch your video I would tried only to replace the releasing valve and of course it would not solve the problem. I spend overall less than $60 and got the problem solved!
TH-cam provides amazing platform for these amazing people and amazing videos. How would I do the DIY without it?!
Thanks again. Please keep the great work!
I have zero knowledge of water heater system. Their video help me figure out how to reset my pressure relief valve. Thank you thank you 🙏 for helping me out. Great video!!!
I wanted to say thank you i fixed my furnace by watching your video and I was leaking 5 gallons a day out of it ! The relief valve went but changed the expansion tank as well ! Worked great !
awesome!!
Good day and happy New yr so I'm a women and I didn't know to much about burners so a technician came out and when he left my burner was dripping water it's a new burner and there was something running looking at your video gave me confidence to move that pressure valve no more dripping water some people like to try to get over on women that are not knowledgeable thank you
Meltona
Great job!
WoW! I simply played with the pressure relief valve tab and THAT DID IT!! THANK YOU$$$$$
Glad it helped!
Me too!! Thank you so very much!!
A simple thank you. Fixed the valve in 2 seconds.
thanks! it was exactly what I needed. replaced everything for less than $125. A service call for someone to come out was at least $100 not including parts and replacing the relief valve.
Good video with some missing steps. I just had to pay $125 just for the guy to show up. Expansion tank needed pressure. Caused relief valve to blow. He replaced relief valve (preventative maintenance?) and added air to the expansion tank (1.5lb to 15 lb.)! $206.85! Didn't help that the house is on East coast and I'm in L.A.
Thanks so much for sharing this video, That was exactly what my boiler needed. Once I bought the expansion tank and pressure relief valve, I was able to replace the parts in about 15 minutes. Thanks again, may God bless you and your family
The first 10 seconds of this video saved me at least a $100 diagnostic visit, possibly more depending on the technician. Thanks!
Update: I replaced everything and it seems to be fine. I was waiting on a guy to come since last year and he's actually someone I know. Nice to be able to do it myself! Thanks for the video, it gave me the confidence to do it!
Plus you save money. Thanks for the feedback
You're welcome, thank you again for the video
Nicely done! Plumbers are ridiculous with this quotes,I always do this repairs myself just like you,safes money,you learn it’s fun
🙏🏻thanks for sharing so other home owners do it themselves
Nice, I was able to do this myself for the cost of the valve (about $50). Thanks!
Very informative and should help me in my project. I have a leaking pressure relief valve on a home I just purchased. Thank you very much for taking the time to do this video!
Good luck!
Thank you!!!! I really needed to see 1:25!! I didn’t understand what other people meant when they say that I should try to flush it first. I was turning it sideways and nothing was happening.
This is a useful tip video... thanks for posting it.
I had to do this several months ago.
You may want to add an annotation about charging the dry side of the expansion tank to match the working pressure of the system. My understanding is that it isn't an absolutely necessary step, but a recommended step (I am not a plumber).
Thanks for the feedback. The tank I bought was pre charged but your are right. Will add an annotation.
I got this done just today. I was also wondering about the proper pressure during my research, and it seems the tank for furnaces are generally 12 psig (pre-charged, usually 2 gallon tanks specific for this application) and this is specified on the boiler itself. People looking to do this should check to see if this is the case for their gas furnace.
I almost bought a tank used the for hot water heater (pre-charged to 30,40 psi) mainly because most of the videos on youtube deals with water heaters (and not many on furnaces) and i assumed wrongly that they were the same application. And the ones they sell at home depot and the like do not have the 2 gallon tanks made for furnaces in their inventory - you'd most likely have to order online as i did.
And yup, my tank was filled with water (11 years old furnace); when the furnace starts off cold, the pressure rises over 30 and the relief valve spat out some water for the past week or so. No problems after the reinstall - pressure at 20 throughout.
Great video... it's unbelievable something so specific like this video exists... but this is EXACTLY this issue I am having and this is the solution. I have a maintenance agreement so someone else may do this, but I feel better when I know what they should be doing. Awesome! Thanks! (So, the repairman came today and this is exactly what he did... he started to explain and I said... "I already know" and we had a good laugh! I told him about the video!)
1:20
What you want to do is tap on the top of the T&P valve a few times. That'll work much better than to keep flipping the valve open.
I did that and it worked for a month, but then finally failed... too old. Don't make some of the parts like they used to.
T&P?
@@lh98 temperature and pressure
This was an excellent tutorial on how to fix this common problem.
Very good and detailed informative video thanks for saving me money so I could fix it myself
Glad it helped
This guy is knowledgeable enough to make this video and give out dangerous information, that water when you're letting it out from the relief valve could be scalding hot and burn you instantly and what happens if the relief valve does not seat back right in your going to have scalding hot water spraying out?. Could also just be the pressure reducing valve and it can also be a coil inside the boiler if it is leaking in putting domestic water into the boiler into the boiler hence having the relief valve leak
Really great video! Thank you for simplifying and getting right to the point. Learned a lot about my system and definitely saved me some money. Really appreciate this feed.
Position monkey wrench with its "nose tips" pointing in desired direction . You had them facing you as you were pushing for removal of valve. Also proper diameter pipe over handle of wrench will increase the leverage and make it easier to remove the valve as it might be too tight due to rust or possible prior over tightening. ( this trick also works for lug wrench use when trying to remove lugs from tire rim. This kind of leverage makes it a whole lot easier ! )
I have a similar leak! I will try this...thanks on the very awesome detailed video!
Thank You your video is awesome and it really made my day happy. I have been having a really hard time furnace broke, hot water heater broke, also washer broke, between hot water heater, and washer I have water every where, I'm disabled broken lungs! Limited funds so I'm unable to call perfessionals. Now I know I can take care of this hot water thing myself, and I am so happy. Thank you! Thank you!! Thank You!!!
Awesome video. Thanks…of course today is -11 windchill! You saved the day.
Noticed that the PRV on our 10 yr. old Pennco has been leaking - and - have noticed water at the top of the Taco air scoop (which sits above the expansion tank). Will replace both. Many Thanks for posting.
Nicely done..you should do all repair vids..excellent job!
Verry detailed and clear.
You just need to wrap the Teflon clockwise in the thread, so it will tighten when you put together the parts.
Kudos!!
Just an fyi for anyone attempting to do this repair on their own, code states on a boiler that the relief valve Must be mounted vertically on a boiler. In this video the relief valve is on a nipple coming out the side of the boiler and in the event there is not a tapping on the top of the boiler, a 90 would have to be added to the nipple to mount the relief valve correctly then nipple, 90, and pipe to floor within 6" to prevent anyone from getting hurt in the event of a relief valve blowing off. This was a great video, just wanted to add some clarity. Thanks
good video, done these repairs couple times already, every men should learn and able to do simple DIY. it is actually fun, not a rocket science.
I was struggling to find a real information related to my issue. I was lucky to find this video. Thank you. Keep up the good work!
I have a few videos on my channel that might help you!
Gotta fill the expansion tank with air to match the pressure of your water in the house. It comes pre-pressurized but only at about 12PSI. other words great video 👍
So if my house pressure is 40 psi charge it to that? Or what comes after the pressure reducing valve which is factory set for 12 psi that would match the new tank at 12 psi pre charged?
@@Supanova70 They come charged at 12 psi for a reason. To maintain 12 psi in the system.
How about tank pressure? Did you charge it to match the water pressure ? Come precharged but not enough.
Don't think you charge it like your domestic water. It's really just a bladder to accept expanding water
This is a useful tip video... thanks for posting it.
Is it necessary to change the expansion tank when you change the valve? I meant is it compulsory? Thank you!
What a nice set up to actually have sunlight in the boiler room. Everybody I know has their boiler in a dingy basement corner.
Between the video and some of the comments, a lot of incorrect and/or misleading information.
One person mentioned that the tank comes precharged with probably 30 psi of air and that you should pump it up to your incoming city water pressure. WRONG! Not for a boiler that is set up to run typically around 12 to 15 psi.(It is set up with a pressure reducing valve. This guy was think a water heater.
The video had some good advice relative to releasing a little water from the P&T valve. As sometimes it's just a bit of dirt or the like that gets hung up in the valve preventing it to close properly.
The expansion tanks vary a bit in design due to age but typically all the newer tanks are equipped with a diaphragm within the tank separating the air side from the water side. The air side is equipped with a schrader valve which allows one to add air. The tank could have been water logged due to a number of reasons. some that would require you to replace the tank and others where you could simply correct the problem. For example: ruptured diaphragm= requires replacement. Loss of air due to possibly a leaky schrader valve.= Replace air valve and refill with air to recommended pressure.
And yes to those that mentioned the direction of putting on the Teflon tape, there is a preferred direction but it still works either way. Won't get into details here. There certainly are many minor items that can and do get fixed by DIY'ers but there can be unknowns that could get you into trouble. You can't believe everything you see or hear on youtube but it is a good source of info, just be careful. As far as plumbing advice, there are Plumbing Forums that have professionals that try to help you out. Excellent source of information. But even then, there are differences of opinions but that's everywhere in life. "Measure 3 times and cut once." ;-)
Thx dad
Well I have a 2 family home with 2 identical boilers and one that the relief is not blowing off is a 60 psi and the other a 30 psi rating that is blowing off. Now mind you these are large cast iron radiator hydronic systems. Explain that and you can come to my house to repair it...lol
@@renrut0 ask the guy who made this video he knows everything, if you want the actual answer pay a professional. Other than that its a fairly obvious answer with 20 plus years of hvac, but who wants to pay for that
The expansion tank needs air to allow for expansion and contraction of the water from the water heater. Before replacing the tank, check the air pressure using a tire gauge.
Yes. Should be around 12 lbs.
That’s a boiler not a water heater.
Thank you! You just saved me big time
Excellent video, very well explained.
Great job.........many thanks and easy to follow ,nice one!
You are welcome!
CAUTION: You need to FILL SLOWLY because quickly introducing cold water can possibly cause the BOILER TO CRACK- this is usually on a steam boiler more than hot water boiler because steam units run hotter. Steam is made at 212° and HW is usually set at a max of 190° (more like 170-180°) Hopefully ppl see this WARNING. “Rip off” might not be the best statement but they do charge outrageous rates often and if they truly quoted a thousand bucks that is a rip off!
Thermal stress yes but worse case blow up.
Thanks for this great video ❤
You are so welcome!
Excellent video, good job
Thank you! Cheers!
You wrapped the teflon tape on the pipe in the wrong direction .It should be wrapped in clock-wise direction on the male threads(with pipe or male fitting in your left hand)this allows the tape to stay on the threads when tightening.
Frank Dringus I
Thank you very much for theis informative video, I'm having this exact problem right now and was kinda nervous about doing it. Now I just have to go get the parts and do what you did! Thanks!
How was the outcome?? I seem to have the same problem
@@johnnycho9824 unfortunately he was found dead with his organs missing
Don’t forget to bleed the air out of your boiler as you’re refilling it. Do this using the blow off relief valve you just replaced as it is at the highest point internally in the water jacket of the boiler.
Also the heating zones as well.
The only way to bleed air out is have it up to temp , you can put an automatic bleeder . The best is right after the boiler where the expansion tank is . But the very highest point
Should you close off the valves that lead to the upstairs heaters so the water wont drain back down as you empty the boiler?
Skip first 2 threads with tape and add pipe dope. I think your expansion tank should have a thermal trap to keep hot water from the rubber diaphram .
Great explanation ever seen good Job, thank you for sharing with us, nice video.
I’m surprised your Teflon tape didn’t unravel as you threaded that tank back on to the boiler, you always wrap your tap clockwise which you did not, to properly refill your boiler with water you need to purge the air out of the system if you don’t you won’t have any heat, open the boiler drain and let it run until all the air bubbles are out of the pipes and the water returning to the boiler is coming back hot, also worth noting is that all expansion tanks have water in them you’ll know your tank is bad if it’s full of water, the bottom of the tank should have air and the top should have water in it, they will go bad and need to be replaced, to find out if your tank is bad tap on it
Thanks
"open the boiler drain and let it run until all the air bubbles are out of the pipes and the water returning to the boiler is coming back hot," You do this when the boiler is running?
I'm sure someone has probably already said this but just in case they didn't you might want to put new Teflon tape on that expansion tank because you went in the wrong direction, otherwise a great video 👌
Thank you for sharing! Love it
You are so welcome!
Sometimes its the pressure reducing valve thats bad and lets to much water in and pops the expansion tank which causes the relief valve to open and leak out because there is to much water pressure in the system . sometimes there is nothing wrong with the relief valve its just doing its job and is telling you something else is not.
Shouldn't you check the pressure of the expansion tank pre and post replacement?
Yes. However, the brand usually comes pressurized at 12 psi. However, 15 - 20 psi when hot is quite common, so he should have checked the system psi, and add to the tank if higher.
Thank you so much🙂👌💪💯. Just saved me the same$$$
Glad I could help
While the basis of this video is informative there is a bit more information that is handy.
You can determine if the tank is bad. Press the schrader valve on the tank. If you get water the tank needs to be replaced. If not it may just need an air charge, usually to 12 psi without water pressure o the tank.
If you get water it will be heavy. You can lighten it before removal by drilling a hole in the bottom of the tank and pre-draining it. Of course the boiler water will have to be turned off and pressure removed from the boiler. This is not a step by step plan.
The pressure relief valve must be installed in a vertical position. This means the stem of the valve will be vertical not horizontal. The reasons behind this is 1) it is code and 2) keeps the seat of the valve cleaner and 3) extends the life of the valve.
That’s was very helpful thanks man you save my day
The plumber who gave you that estimate is a thief. Also you never purged the air out of the zone loops if you start the boiler without doing that correctly and you allow the circulator pump to run dry or air lock you will be replacing that too. You must purge the air out of the loops, not the bottom of the boiler.
TheNorthsquad how to purge air from loops? Ihave troubles
If you shut the zones off before you drain that will save you from having to purge them after but still a good idea
Nice video all meat no fat thanks
Great video I'm just not very well equipped to do this kind of work myself
Does the bladder in the pressure tank come pre-filled to the correct pressure? Shouldn't one confirm its PSI with a tire pressure gauge to ensure proper system pressure?
yes you should inflate the bladder to match the system pressure of the boiler, shown on the dial. It fluctuates but it should always be a little higher than the highest point it goes. My system maxes out at 20psi when fully heated, so my expansion tank bladder is set to about 21-22 psi.
Do I need to close the vales coming in from the house side or will they remain full? Thank you. They are in rough shape and I'd like to leave them if possible
awesome video save me a lot of money
Thanks again for the very good explaining and easy to follow detail! When shutting off the water supply to the boiler, and draining the system, is it necessary to close off the ball valves entering and returning the heating zones? What I mean is, would the water from the entire system upstairs drain (by gravity)? (I have a two story home with four heating zones and a fifth zone to a hot water tank).
I would assume so
Yup, it sure will. I don't know why he didn't show that part. Perhaps he drained the entire house or his boiler is upstairs.
Is that the same Universe located in Seaford, Long Island?
Nice video
Great video, thank you
The easiest way to do so in a pinch is to just to piggy back another relief valve to the existing one. That way you don't have to drain the boiler.
this was such a helpful video!
I just created a channel with DIY Heating Videos - They could help you!
Thanks. Relief valve and expansion tank were screw-off/screw-on easy fixes once I knew how to drain the boiler. However, my pressure is high and, from what I'm told, this could happen again?
I have the same problem at my furnace, so my plumber changed the valve and expansion tank but it was still leaking and keeping the pressure high. So he thought the valve was defective and he changed it again but same issue. After one day it start dripping again. Any suggestion?
Wet good tutorial!
Thank you! Cheers!
Can we just empty the expancion tank ??and be reuse? and why is not mounted up sidedown `
thanks
Question tho , is the pressure valve suppose to be warm to the touch ? Mine I can’t see if water leak es because the pipe is fed back into the wall and don’t know where it goes .
Plumbers quote was high and this is a best case scenario for a home owner doing himself, many boilers pipes and valves are rusted in and MOST homeowners who attempt this will quickly be in over their heads.
You got that right !
What about the pressure in the expansion tank after installing it what should it be?
So sometimes when the expansion tank is faulty the pressure relief valve can leak?
My problem was that low pressure in expansion tank caused reliet valve to blow(?). They replaced valve (and added pressure to exp. tank!) because, I was told, they often don't reseat properly.
Generaly relief valve and expansion tank last for 5 to 7yrs same as go for hotwater tank pressure temp valve.
I just had mine changed after 26 years.
Thanks
How did you bleed this system?
Not only plumbers charge too much, but in some cases they simply guess and try to replace parts as much as they can. I am more interested in plumbers who can truly diagnose a problem. Most of the boiler issues can be easily resolved by DIY
Thank you for the video 👍👍👍
Did you put you gas on Pilot or turn it completely OFF? I would think that once the water is drained your would not want to have any gas on at all to overheat. I just bought the same valve and want to replace my old leaking one. the connecting pip on mine is straight up and not on the side like yours. Comments / suggestions welcome from all.
One thing I learned the hard way. Avoid making deals with plumbers under the the table. Most will RIP you off. I had a plumber worked on my boiler. Every week almost the whole winter months my boiler broke down. Each trip he came back with boiler parts from igniter to gas valve to pressure relief valve an boiler would work for 2 days. He kept telling me that my boiler would explode if he does not replace needed parts. My hands were tied cause I could not call the company he work for and had to come up with $300_$400 for parts plus installation to a point where he literally replaced most of the boiler part. When my cost went close to $5000 I called a legitimate company that fitted my old boiler with new expansion tank and never had problems with it anymore.
My pressure release valve blew off sending out hot steaming water all over my boiler room ,should i replace just that valve or i have to do both expansion tank and pressure valve ?
First you should find out why the valve opened. The system may have over pressurized, causing the valve to do its job by releasing the pressure.
@@phill3583 i had the valve open that was connected to the expansion tank letting in more than 30psi that cause the pressure release valve to pop ,i had some maintance done to the system and i guess that was my error . i replaced the pressure release valve and the system is working fine now , but i am not sure if to change the expansion tank .i test it and at first water came out ,now its only air but the tank feels heavy .what do you think i should do ? i have a new tank but i did swap it yet . should i swap it ?
@@premrajvish You should have one valve supplying domestic water from the street to the boiler. This should be a pressure regulated feed valve. This valve should supply 12 psi to the system with the force fill lever in the normal operating position when cold. There should be a gate valve before the fill valve to shut the water supply off. With the system cold, close the shut off valve. Bleed the system down to under 12 psi using a bleed valve, not the pressure relief valve. Now turn the shut off valve back on. The system should pressurize back to 12 psi cold with the force fill lever in the normal operating position. If it goes up to 30, your feed valve is bypassing. If it maintains 12 psi, turn the system on. If the pressure climbs up to 30 psi while the system is getting hot, your expansion tank isn't compensating. Expansion tank air pressure should be 12 psi when cold.
@@phill3583 thank you sir i will check the pressure on the tank shortly .what about the sound test on the tank ? mine sound solid
@@phill3583 i just had the chance to check the tank and a little bit of air comes out and also water , so i am assuming the tank is not bad and should be replaced . do you agreed ?
Over time the tank diaphragm can leak allowing the air to escape and be replaced by water. However the air inlet valve located at the bottom of this style of tank can also leak causing a loss of cushion resulting in the over pressure valve to leak even though it's in good shape.
The way to check for a leaking bladder is to simply depress the inlet valve and see if water comes out, if NO water comes out check the pressure in the tank with a air pressure gauge and correct it to your usual operating pressure to keep most of the water out of the tank, you may have to do this several times if the tank is full of water and is easier if the over pressure valve is bled off.
There are pressure tanks that are non bladder that only have air with the inlet on the bottom and they should also be pressurized with air ( maybe 18 lbs ) to keep more of the tank empty of water for a larger cushion and less chance of the over pressure valve leaking.
great advice