My 2008 GL 320 had 101 thousand miles on it when I bought it, now has 160,000 miles… runs great oil is changed every 3000 miles with 5/40 Penzoil Euro Maintenance items are also replaced as needed 😊
Its a nice engine indeed. Closing in on 400k myself. Only things replaced besides maintenance items were the oil cooler seals with the upgraded ones and a turbo rebuild at around 300k. I also had some flaps issue due to ignoring the PCV valve, that's definitely a maintenance item, don't go over 50k on it.
The oil company loves you for it! They love all of those people who needlessly change their oil at the interval they made popular. My 2008 ML320 has 295,000 miles on it and I changed the oil with whatever oil was cheapest that met the MB Spec every 8-10 K miles, depending on when the service reminder came on.
I'll toss out a few things from minor experience. For cleaning the engine, an undercoating gun from princess auto or just a garden hose and Dawn Heavy duty degreaser cleans messes like that up like crazy. Spray the Dawn on at full strength, and let sit for 5-10 min, then use the under coating gun or hose with water to rinse off. Shouldn't be much scrubbing required. If the leak is coming from the turbo, and you have a oil leak from inside the v, first things to check is your PCV swirl thingy. Replace it or change it out with a catch can, and replace the seal from the batwing into the turbo. It will likely fix your oil on the pully issue if the oil was coming from the turbo. Too much oil going through the turbo can cause swirl flap issues causing you to have to take all that apart to fix. So, fixing that PCV might be a bit urgent. Some guys I read about suggested that using catch cans in place of the PCV control on the engine cleaned up their intake a lot. Another place to check for an oil leak is the seal between the steering oil reservoir and the steering pump. If that seal is leaking, it will leak in aprox that area as well. If oil is leaking on the belt, it will case the belt to skip off, and can cause the best to destroy the front crank seal. One other thing is to keep the idler and tensioner pullies. You can take the bearings out, and get the same bearings from a place like Motion Canada, and just press new bearings in, generally for a lot cheaper than buying a new set of pullies. Get good bearings like Timken or SKF.
I've replaced every gasket there is on this motor and still oil leaking on to of the belt... it seems to be coming from the air temp sensor again - that design just doesn't seem to seal well under boost
Thanks for the video!! I have the exact vehicle and same issue (incl the oil leak!). Can you confirm if there are 1 or 2 idler pulleys that need replacing? In your vid it looked like only one, but I've seen some kits that incl 2 idler pulleys along with the tensioner and belt so got me confused. Also, did you successfully cure your leaks after installing the new o-rings on the intake pipe? Thanks
My late build 08 ML320 CDI has two idlers, one ribbed and one smooth. I too had an oily mist where the silencer meets the metal charge pipe. Black, thick o-ring had been compromised unknowingly by mechanic during reassembly after making a repair on fuel system. Dry as can be after changing out the o-ring.
Hi this oil leak is probably your PCV valve faulty, putting much oil into turbo inlet, then leaking on top of the engine V from turbo inlet flange seal, and blowing oil from the pressure pipe you’re holding because of no oring.
when are you going to continue the om606 w201 project i would like to see it being built. my favorite car is the mercedes 190 and i plan in the future to put a om606 motor in it also
Hi, so did the new seal fix the oil leaks?? having also serious oil leak somewhere, im hoping this can help me also. BTW my belt also turned to spaghetti, quite worse than yours 😀
@@ETMotorsports my serpentine belt went spaghetti after only 27000 kilometers, im suspecting the oil from the leak is dissolving the belts, so now i need to find my leak, as it is somehow dripping on belt, getting thrown out everywhere
This video is beyond infuriating. If you’re like me, and just trying to figure out how to route the belt, skip the first like 10 god damn minutes. Dude just wants to talk about nothing.
My 2008 GL 320 had 101 thousand miles on it when I bought it, now has 160,000 miles… runs great oil is changed every 3000 miles with 5/40 Penzoil Euro
Maintenance items are also replaced as needed 😊
Its a nice engine indeed. Closing in on 400k myself. Only things replaced besides maintenance items were the oil cooler seals with the upgraded ones and a turbo rebuild at around 300k. I also had some flaps issue due to ignoring the PCV valve, that's definitely a maintenance item, don't go over 50k on it.
The oil company loves you for it! They love all of those people who needlessly change their oil at the interval they made popular. My 2008 ML320 has 295,000 miles on it and I changed the oil with whatever oil was cheapest that met the MB Spec every 8-10 K miles, depending on when the service reminder came on.
I'll toss out a few things from minor experience. For cleaning the engine, an undercoating gun from princess auto or just a garden hose and Dawn Heavy duty degreaser cleans messes like that up like crazy. Spray the Dawn on at full strength, and let sit for 5-10 min, then use the under coating gun or hose with water to rinse off. Shouldn't be much scrubbing required.
If the leak is coming from the turbo, and you have a oil leak from inside the v, first things to check is your PCV swirl thingy. Replace it or change it out with a catch can, and replace the seal from the batwing into the turbo. It will likely fix your oil on the pully issue if the oil was coming from the turbo.
Too much oil going through the turbo can cause swirl flap issues causing you to have to take all that apart to fix. So, fixing that PCV might be a bit urgent. Some guys I read about suggested that using catch cans in place of the PCV control on the engine cleaned up their intake a lot.
Another place to check for an oil leak is the seal between the steering oil reservoir and the steering pump. If that seal is leaking, it will leak in aprox that area as well. If oil is leaking on the belt, it will case the belt to skip off, and can cause the best to destroy the front crank seal.
One other thing is to keep the idler and tensioner pullies. You can take the bearings out, and get the same bearings from a place like Motion Canada, and just press new bearings in, generally for a lot cheaper than buying a new set of pullies. Get good bearings like Timken or SKF.
I've replaced every gasket there is on this motor and still oil leaking on to of the belt... it seems to be coming from the air temp sensor again - that design just doesn't seem to seal well under boost
Thanks for the video!! I have the exact vehicle and same issue (incl the oil leak!). Can you confirm if there are 1 or 2 idler pulleys that need replacing? In your vid it looked like only one, but I've seen some kits that incl 2 idler pulleys along with the tensioner and belt so got me confused. Also, did you successfully cure your leaks after installing the new o-rings on the intake pipe? Thanks
My late build 08 ML320 CDI has two idlers, one ribbed and one smooth.
I too had an oily mist where the silencer meets the metal charge pipe. Black, thick o-ring had been compromised unknowingly by mechanic during reassembly after making a repair on fuel system. Dry as can be after changing out the o-ring.
Salut! T'as tu les numéros de pièces des O-Ring vert et noir pour le fun 😁?
Hi this oil leak is probably your PCV valve faulty, putting much oil into turbo inlet, then leaking on top of the engine V from turbo inlet flange seal, and blowing oil from the pressure pipe you’re holding because of no oring.
thank for this Video ...
thank u very informative... what would cause this model to jump the belt
The struts would still work in the service position. The left strut red button allows it to lift 90°
Mine were locked and couldn't be lifted...I replaced them after
Hi there! Would you tell me, please, what are the torque specs for pulley and tensioner.
Do you have part number on that black O ring? Looks like mine is leaking also. Thanks
my ml.seems to be jumping the serpentine belt I have no idea if the idley pullies r damaged kindly update thank u
when are you going to continue the om606 w201 project i would like to see it being built. my favorite car is the mercedes 190 and i plan in the future to put a om606 motor in it also
Hey bro just saw you holding up your bonnet there is red button on right hand strut depress this and bonnet will tilt back to 190
Thanks - I think at the time the strut was broken so the service position didn't work 🤣
What size nut is the Turbo Resonator?
@@ETMotorsports Yes
Thanks for your video… . Is it reliable car for daily use?
Have you ever faced any serious issues on this car?
@@ETMotorsports thanks
Hi, so did the new seal fix the oil leaks?? having also serious oil leak somewhere, im hoping this can help me also. BTW my belt also turned to spaghetti, quite worse than yours 😀
@@ETMotorsports my serpentine belt went spaghetti after only 27000 kilometers, im suspecting the oil from the leak is dissolving the belts, so now i need to find my leak, as it is somehow dripping on belt, getting thrown out everywhere
@@ETMotorsports thanks for the advice, wow, 15 problem areas 😂, yeah, Mercedes is Mercedes, but its for sure no Toyota😁, they are insanely well built.
I love mine people are scared of them parts cost etc its a myth that parts are expensive.
This video is beyond infuriating. If you’re like me, and just trying to figure out how to route the belt, skip the first like 10 god damn minutes. Dude just wants to talk about nothing.
@@davpierce8102 a simple Google search will get you the routing diagram and save you the time