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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 2 ส.ค. 2024
- Shimano Scylence wheels XTR/ XT/ SLX introduced by #Shimano with their 12 speed drivetrains, this is the Trail version of Deore #xt M8120 #wheels . Hubs are the new version of Scylence that Shimano could not deliver. Details, unboxing, weight and issues, take a look!
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⭐Shimano OEM parts from Canada:
MT400/ MT500 Rear Hub 135x11QR Micro Spline - bit.ly/3pH44qy
Shimano XT MT800 Center Lock Rotor - bit.ly/2Z9wrBy
Shimano XTR MT900 Center Lock Rotor - bit.ly/32122qZ
Shimano XT SM-RT86 6-BOLT DISC BRAKE ROTOR - bit.ly/2EZPqYo
SHIMANO SLX SM-RT66 6-BOLT Rotors - bit.ly/321U0Op
Shimano SM-MA Disc Brake MOUNT ADAPTERS - bit.ly/331pinP
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Shimano TL-FC41 DM Chainring Tool 12 speed (Y13098720) - bit.ly/3gY5XuP
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Shimano XT HB-M8110-B Front Hub - 15 x 110mm Boost, CL, 32H - bit.ly/3v4smLX
Shimano XT FH-M8110-B Rear Hub 12x148mm CL Micro Spline 32H - bit.ly/3wfeKPu
Shimano SLX HB-M7110-B Front Hub - 15 x 110mm Boost, CL, 32H - bit.ly/2TgLI3c
Shimano SLX FH-M7110 Rear Hub 12 x 142mm CL Micro Spline, 32H - bit.ly/2TTM00u
Berd XC25 XC Carbon White Spokes I9 Hydra Wheelset 29" Boost, Microspline, CL - bit.ly/2Snc2ZA
DT Swiss HUB parts, freehubs - bit.ly/3aIj2oI
DT Swiss Service Kit - 3-Pawl - bit.ly/31cE9fI
DT Swiss XD Freehub 3 Pawl, 12 x 142mm, w/ endcap for 360/370 hubs - bit.ly/2YkcQOw
DT Swiss HG Freehub Body - 8/9/10/11/12 Speed, 3 Pawl, 12 x 142/148mm - bit.ly/3tiGksJ
DT Swiss Star Ratchet Grease - bit.ly/32phNqP
DT Swiss 54t Star Ratchet Upgrade Kit - bit.ly/2QowQvj
Center Lock to IS 6-Bolt Disc Adaptor 15 and 20mm axle - bit.ly/3aWvaCI
Center Lock to IS 6-Bolt Disc Adaptor 12mm and QR (smaller lock ring) - bit.ly/336Cjhf
Shimano XTR RT-MT900 Center Lock Disc Brake Rotor 180mm - bit.ly/3jYKQJx
Shimano XT RT-MT800 Center Lock Disc Brake Rotor 180mm - bit.ly/30fHtG9
Shimano XT M8010 Center lock Lock ring, 12/15/20mm Axle Hubs - bit.ly/3ajj3PI
Shimano XT RT86S 160mm 6-Bolt Ice Tech Disc Brake Rotor - bit.ly/2DWokka
DT Swiss XD Freehub Body - Ratchet EXP, 12 x 142/148/157mm - bit.ly/3kZTdVM
DT Swiss Micro Spline Freehub Body - Ratchet EXP - bit.ly/2CJZJyC
Park Tool FR-5.2 Cassette Tool - bit.ly/2HRxRqr
Park BBT-9 BB Tool Shimano Hollowtech II - bit.ly/2uNKcqv
Shimano brakes, discs and pads - bit.ly/3hQR6RR
Tubeless needs
Tanus Armour Tubeless INSERTS - bit.ly/2T6OVCo
Stan's NoTubes Alloy Valve Stems - 44mm, Pair, Black - bit.ly/3jJ8xWL
Stan's NoTubes Rim Tape: 30mm x 10 yard roll - bit.ly/3aehdRB
DT Swiss Tubeless Tape 29mm x 10meter - bit.ly/3tULeh5
Stan's NoTubes Tubeless Tire Sealant - 32oz - bit.ly/2MYVjcm
Muc-Off No Puncture Tubeless Tire Sealant - 1L Bottle - bit.ly/3d7rz7C
Orange Seal Tubeless - bit.ly/3qlaVos
Mighty bits, greases and tools
Park Tool DAG-2.2 Derailleur Alignment Gauge - bit.ly/2N1MYOU
Park Tool FR-5.2 Cassette Tool - bit.ly/2HRxRqr
Park Tool CT-4.3 Master Chain Tool - bit.ly/2u9PGvf
Park Tool SR-12 Sprocket Remover Chain Whip - bit.ly/2QWLqcr
Park Tool CC-4 Chain Wear Indicator - bit.ly/3b51S5k
Stan's NoTubes Dart Tire Repair - bit.ly/2Lc6tWs
Topeak Nano Torqbar X Mini TORQUE Wrench - bit.ly/3nZ0sxN
Park Tool AWS-1 Y Hex Wrench: 4, 5, 6mm - bit.ly/2pwCaiA
Park Tool AWS-10 Metric Hex Wrench Set - bit.ly/2QUqa6S
Park Tool Polylube 1000 Grease -bit.ly/2qy34qo
⭐Let's stay in touch!
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⌚ Timeline
0:00 Intro Shimano XT M8100 Wheels
0:20 Unboxing the XT Wheels
0:51 Wheel, RIM details
1:21 Tape, valves, Spokes and Nipples - Tip!
2:12 Front XT Hub details
2:44 Rotor Compatibility, Adaptors, Service
3:41 27.5 XT M8120 Wheelset Weight
4:05 Rear Hub Details, Axles, Models
4:42 New Scylence Freehub Design, XT vs XTR
6:03 After Two Months of Trail Use, Impressions, ISSUES
6:42 Conclusions
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You really do the best reviews. Very informative.
Thanks
Wow I'm subscribing to your channel very informative, specially explaining to us viewers on the technology behind it and the specs :)
I tried to get these ended up with 29 race face next 31s so Im happy.
Awesome review man! I've got the Shimano m620 wheels, which are pretty similar. They are rocking the trails
@@LoveMTB You are right, they use the old pawls design. They are really noisy too :/ But for the price they're really good
Lets go. Most waited of the week
I have that same noise with my Bontrager wheels, not with coasting, but while pedaling hard in the highest gear. I have just learned to ignore that noise.
Muy buen vídeo y bien explicado con todo tipo de detalle cómo siempre, eres un crack.. a mi particularmente no me gustaría que sonarán mis bujes al rodar con unas Ruedas nuevas. Un Saludo 🤙
awesome mate ,ive got same wheels 2nd year and they are super nice
Always on top level when it comes to rewiews, describing parts . Great video . Greetings from Germany. Cheers
Definitivno najjači, i ja ga redovno pratim.
I have stopped mid ride and come home multiple times because of creaking somewhere on my bike. I actually like the cone and cup design as it's easier to overhaul when that time eventually comes, but the overall weight and hub issues are a deal breaker for me. Good to see you thinking outside of the box and giving them a try though!
And. Cup and cone bearing ? Run soooo much smother than cheap Chinese cartridge bearings..
Cup and cone? I suppose some people use cassettes and AM radio too. There’s a reason we developed cartridge bearings.
@@guzziben yeah. They're cheap and require less frequent maintenance and setup.. don't even try to claim the spin better... they definitely don't... properly setup shimano cup n cone bearings?.. nothing rolls like it. Not even a ceramic cartridge
Re. the creaking sound.Make sure your thru-axle is greased and tightened to the proper torque spec. I found this to be true on my Timberjack that if the rear axle isn’t torqued to spec it creaks.
Great as always
Hi! I am in Korea, but the information in your video is very advanced. My hand unknowingly pressed the subscribe button.
Until recently I rode a 2008 trek8500. I'm on a scott scale 940 now. I am surprised that it is much heavier than my 14 year old bike and I want to change the wheelset and tires. If I buy the M8100 wheel, can I replace it right away?
Here in Brazil, all shimano scylence technology hubs (m7100/8100/9100) fail with a few kilometers of use. The hubs show a horrible creaking noise. The warranty changes but the new hub turn to presenting the creaking noise. A few mechanics who disassembled this hub recommended lubricate the hubs, but the problem continue. I think that shimano mt400 series (with ball bearings) was releases because the problem with this scylence hubs. Great video!!! Thanks!!!!
@@LoveMTB yes, mt400 and mt500, both the freehub have pawls system, not scylence.
because all brazilians buys on aliexpress for 80% off the real price...
My xt hubs had that buzzing noise out of the box.. it didn't bother me at all.. except for the first time i'd mistaken it for rotor rub since it was almost very subtle.
5 months of use and now it's just completely silent....
I only hear the hubs when im in the workshop doing some maintenance.
Going on second season with these wheels but 29er. Had rear hub creaking almost immediately. Took apart and lubed and creaking hasn’t returned but does make hub louder like you mentioned. Have recently had issue with spokes breaking on rear wheel for no apparent reason. Took to my local mechanic (over 20yrs experience) and he said the bend in the spokes from being machine built was terrible and probably causing the breaks. Also are sure it has rim tape? 99% sure these are UST style which would explain the drain holes wouldn’t it?
Hope to have that kind of mtb 🎉
Sunt mare mare fan dt swiss - orice cu ratche (de la 350 in sus) dar nu suport zgomotul de la 54 dinti. N-am avut idee de hub-urile astea pana acum. Multumesc ! Am sa vad de unde pot incerca si eu sa vad cum e. Ai grija !
I'm hearing hints that freehub noise can be controlled by the right lubrication. aa simple example wold be oil verses grease. but DT Swiss are very specific: use their grease or expect issues. the lubricant and counter spring are in balance. The lubricant lets the parts move smoothly but also cushions the parts reducing noise, ware & impact stress
This is correct. I have had the creaking and fixed it by lubing the hub mechanism. Works perfect now.
Wow love how in-depth this review is, very informative. I got the same wheelset from my work and was curious why the hub was so quiet. I had the same creaking noise and it drove me wild. Some grease and I think it's fixed. Now if I can only find a microspline cassette lock ring and I can take em on the trail.
@@LoveMTB10t cog was slightly raised, accidentally cross-threaded the lockring :(. So far the front wheel is great! no complaints, tubeless setup was a breeze. Recently greased the rear when I accidentally stripped the lockring. Relegated to the corner until I can get a replacement ring or extra cassette.
@@LoveMTB yup they are! Sadly none are in stock. I currently have SLX but I’ll most likely just buy another SLX instead of deore. Cassette that is.
Hey, love your video, super informative. Any update on the durability side of things?
Got the same set few weeks ago. Already dented rear rim. Well, lets see how i get a new one as online hard to get.
@@LoveMTB yea, still riding it, with two beacons in the tire. 😁
I used an XT wheels before but the older one the M8000 one. I was using it for good 2 years before selling my bike and I didn't have any problem with it. The only noise I'm hearing is me breathing so hard from those uphill climb. I do prefer the silent hub too. The engagement for the M8000 wheels was awesome so as the rolling speed.
In as much I love the XT wheels, I do not regret selling the bike because I just bought 2022 Santa Cruz Bronson MX which is a totally different bike but oh men I love Bronson. It felt like I was still using my XC bike on the climb.
But anyway awesome Video!
Do you guys have a link on how to fix/maintain these hubs? I mean the creaking sound. It’s driving me crazy.
Hello.Can you recommend any other hubs with microspline?Thanks
Every company has at least 1 bad product. Shimano has creaking hub 👍🏻
that's true 😂
@@LoveMTB grease will not be a permanent solution I reckon. Please let me know when your plastic spacer fails, I am curious :). If you want to be able to continue using that rear wheel I would buy this spacer in advance (part no. Y3G111000 [yellow for XT], or actually used now by Shimano in XT as well the XTR black equivalent, supposedly a bit more resilient: Y3FM14000). What is interesting is that the XTR FH-M9111 model has these spacers that go between driveside cone and freehub body, coupled with an elaborate adjustment process. I guess these problems are not reported to be so common for XTR hubs, that I guess maybe is much less common on the non-sponsorship market due to price, but on the other hand I guess these freehubs were on the market 2yrs earlier than SLX/XT were released.
Yep terrible
I'd like to sete some Chinese carbon 29er wheels tested.. Some that are sub 1400 grams from Speedsafe. I have a friend that has the 1220 gram set and races on them.
I love the look of those decals, but man that's a heavy wheelset.
I just got some 27id carbon rims built on DT240s and they're 1288g... Shame they sent me 29ers when I ordered 27.5 but that's what PayPal disputes are for 🙃
@@LoveMTB Well I'll be sure to enjoy when they get replaced with the correct size. Maybe 27.5 will be under 1250g?
And thanks for the link, just noticed the EXP hub I have is one of the recalled serial numbers. Is it just the ratchets that need replacing? I was thinking of upgrading to the 54t anyway.
No spoke holes! Someone had fun building them.
I'm on these right now and have been for over a year. Let's point out that these cost $500CAD and Shimano's goal with this new gen wheel series was to get people using their 12 speed drivetrain, and not top spec performance. They sell them at very low margins. There are surely better wheels out there - but solid performance for that price, maybe not.
sadly I had to throw my XT m8100 rear hub. the first thing that broke was the plastic spacer with the small teeth. then as I was going down a mountain it turned into a fixed gear hub. they don't make the XT like they used to.
Initially same thing happened to mine,you can feel the wheel suddenly disengaged (can't pedal forward),found out the plastic spacer n both coil spring was out of shape.. luckily,it's replaceable n affordable small parts. It's a good hub actually but the flaws was that issue with the springs n plastic thingy.
Did you know the plastic spacer is replaceable? They had came out with a 2nd gen, better revised spacer which is black in colour.
@@mf3616 Do you happen to know the Shimano part number for this new spacer?
@@kopter28 From what I know, they don't sell it, only can get your local bike shop to contact them to order. But you can try emailing Shimano
@@kopter28 I guess it's the XTR one Y3FM14000, but I got it as warranty replacement and it got chewed up as explained above. All 'legs' broke off and got into the ratcheting mechanism. Relaced my wheel, and hope I will get money back.
ill watch it again later after my duty
A little of silicon spray on the raclet and the are silent again for about 2k.
Hello!!! I have no experience with this new generation of Shimano wheels. But with the old ones... my God...
Now i know, why i can’t figure out that annoying creaking sound. Replaced and greased bb shell but still had the freaking noise..
Where can I buy shimano wheels but with a 135mm QR axle?
I got CR-MO eccentric. Purely awesome.
@@LoveMTB u gotta try it out!
@@LoveMTB is it? I paid about $350 in 2015 when my old FS frame broke.
Im from Poland (likeNS bikes) so I believe this must have something to do with customs margin and shipping :/.
ANYWAY it is still worth it to get NS eccentric steel. I hope they make a steel FS
What brand and model frame
Can I convert TA 148 to QR 141?
Dollar for dollar. The xt hubs are one of the best on the market. The rear freehub functions very similar to a chris king hub
can you pull the freebody off without tools? i have a couple of wheels w dt swiss 240 and wont buy another rear wheel that doesnt do this
You need tools to remove the MicroSpline body from the new SLX/XT/XTR hubs. The end-cap is pulled straight off, but you need a 17 mm hub spanner to grip the end-cap for pulling. You also need needle nose snap ring pliers to remove the C-ring with outer dust cover. Then you can pull the body from the hub. There is also a inner seal ring that is very easy to bend/damage when servicing the body, and if bent you need to replace it, finding some one selling that spare part can also be tricky. I would definitely recommend staying with DT Swiss, much better construction and more reliable operation.
I only really care about the weight and ride quality. How are they in that regard?
But generally I trust anything Shimano makes since they try to perfect anything they produce rather than focusing on the "next fad".
@@jmanswat2457 not these wheels though…
I love Shimano but....do not buy these hubs. Horrible bad design. I've had mine apart 3 times in a couple months. And it's still creaking.
Hi. I’m going to build a rear wheel and trying to decide on a 622x30 rim to buy. Do you think an asymmetrical rim with about a 2 - 3mm offset would work okay with a 142 OLD hub or do offset rims require boost spacing? My plan is to build a 30mm internal width rim using 29x2.4 tires. Thanks.
@@LoveMTB Thanks for the reply!
Ugh. I'm about to pull the trigger on a new bike build, and am thinking about getting these wheels instead of a set of DT Swiss 1900s. I read that these lower end DT Swiss hubs take a while to engage. And Shimano XT kit has always worked well for me.
Given the comments (creaking, chucking a hub), would Mr MTB advise going with the DT Swiss 1900 wheels? Sticking with XT? Or something else entirely?
Any insight would be most welcome!
Or maybe just grease the splines every 2-3 months,?
@@LoveMTB Much appreciated. I watched ur DT Swiss vid and I think u are right. I'll give the 1900s a go, and get the kit if the engagement is an issue. Thanks for the detailed insight on ur channel.
Live long and ride hard!
Cheers
Hi from Brazil, recently o bought slx 7100 brakes and 180/160 rotors RT56, i wanna to ask you if i lose too much braking power for not using slx rotors... thanks!
edit: im also using resin ice pads
thanks man, youre awesome
What is the point of asimetrical rim? Is there a tech reason or just smoke-marketing?
I would never buy M7100/M8100/(12sp. XTR probably similar issue) - I warrantied the hub once as it started creaking and upon inspection I discovered that the plastic spacer legs were all but broken. Sent the whole laced wheel for warranty, came back with new spacer and grease on it this time - worked better (fully silent coasting, even low speed), but soon it started creaking more and more, and then it chewed up all the spacer legs and locked out the freewheeling mechanism on the trail... Fortunately it managed to chew these plastic pieces completely and clean up the space inside the ratcheting mechanism, and I managed to come back home. The engineering design of the freewheeling mechanism is very good - better than DT Star Ratchet or Chris King IMHO (much larger ratchet diameter, much higher engagement force and with the potential to be lighter than even DT Star Ratchet EXP as all parts are from alu alloy), but the solution with the plastic spacer to eat up tolerance and prevent alu/alu contact likely combined with some slop tolerances elsewhere/axle not being stiff enough etc. leads to very quick failure when used frequently with high torque, as most MTBs are. It is really sad as without this issue it would be an excellent and not too expensive hub (though most people would likely prefer to have the drive bearings be cartridge-style as well for convenience and peace of mind, even if they would need to be replaced and properly serviced C&C hub of this class can last very, very long provided no contamination).
@@LoveMTB I think the reason for failure is this strange plastic spacer solution. My hub first came with the light-colored spacer (and no grease there, as per the old Dealer Manual) and then when I sent it to warranty it was replaced with the black (guess XTR) one, but it didn't help.
It would sell!
How do you stop this sound! Mine is doing it I tried removing old grease and putting fresh stuff in there and it was good for about 3 runs then back to inconsistent sounds… and and it driving me crazy!
@@LoveMTB yeah, not cool. My bikes only a few months old and this is the only issue I got with the build.. these hubs are annoying
i bought the same wheels 2 weeks ago 😃
the first thing i did,... was to grease the micro spline 😆
on the other bike the creak was horrible, had to grease it after 500km...
@@LoveMTB i greased it with shimano premium grease. now both micro splines are silent. i recognized when i disassembled the rear hubs, that shimano barley greased it..
Note that only the plastic spacer inside and the seals need to be greased likely using shimano FREEHUB grease only. Their premium grease is too thick and sticky in order for the hubs to engage/disengage.
@@mf3616 this part has no role in engagement, there is no axial movement on that splined interface. I guess it just creaks under high torque due to axle bending.
@@OYeahan My point is that the grease is too sticky hence the spacer can't push the freehub outward enough to disengage fully.
@@mf3616 I disassembled my freehub internals after this "grinding" happened and my understanding was that this splined part of the freehub does not slide back and forth relative to the rest of the freehub, and therefore the role of the splined spacer (its "legs" mostly) is to ease the manufacturing tolerances required and/or to accomodate for slight movement of the freehub (sight axle bending etc.) - which seems to be too much for this system to handle under heavy torque. I'm curious how quickly it would explode on a eMTB...
Does the SLX have steel Splines compared to the XT? Thanks
I doubt it
Shimano needs a hud like I 9 hydra
I would not use the rear hub, creaking will eventually turn into the ratchet mechanism locking and becoming a fixie. Multiple cases of it here if you want all the details.
www.mtbr.com/threads/multiple-xt-m8100-hub-failures.1139315/
Hey! Have you tried the shimano MT500 wheels? 🙂
Unfortunately I did not. What would you like to find out about them?
Почему не поставить механизм как в Shimano Silent clutch?
I split a freehub in the xt set I had and had no end of issues with the toothed plastic ring on the xtr set I had, shop paid me out on the xt's (they'd returned several sets from other customers already) and I I sold the xtr hubs.
Those shimano hubs are the worst bike purchase I've even made, they made me hate riding my bike 0/10 would not recommend
Cup and cone still..had them 25yrs ago. What happened to new technology, these went out with the Romans. As soon as the bearing race is worn out you are knackered. Doesnt matter how many bearing changes you do 🥲🥲
@@LoveMTB lower tolerances, probably cheaper to make, it can be more reliable also, that's heir selling point at least. I have no problem with that personally.
@@LoveMTB I would too, but the freehub is on cartridge bearings already, that's good enough for me, and I really dig the silent ride, hoping I can remedy the creaking issue with some strategic grease/ oil usage 😜
Front hub, I see no point going Shimano.
@@LoveMTB I've had enough buzz, very loud Hope like Novatec (really annoying personally) now 102 Poe (not as loud, not as annoying, just noise in the background) and I've had the crappy DT Swiss 370 hubs on my XC bike, the engagement was terrible, but I really enjoyed how silent they were- I could hear the tires losing traction etc.
Added benefit, hearing tires etc. on the recording as I like to document the more interesting of my rides :)
I heard Shimano gave up selling Scylence hubs because of the technical issues. So Shimano doesn't put "Scylence" label on any their hubs. Thus, I think the coasting noise isn't an issue at all.
www.pinkbike.com/news/shimanos-new-xtr-drivetrain-still-isnt-available.html
whats up with the drainage holes? wont they let water in? thks.
it works like a centrifuge, as soon as it spins up, water gets drained. And no: much more water gets in through the spoke holes. i drilled tiny holes in my dt swiss rims, seems to work.
@@LoveMTB I got those in my RaceFace Turbine R rims.
What is the alternative to these 'silent' hubs for SHIMANO drivetrains?
@@LoveMTB As in are there any other brands you'd recommend for near 'silent' hubs with microspline?
@@LoveMTB thank you.
The Shimano microspline hubs are dangerous garbage. The freehubs lockup. Happened to me and also a friend. They are quick with the warranty but not worth the risk. Imagine having the freehub lock up in a dangerous spot. Switched to dt350 and haven't had an issue since with the hubs.
The 12 speed stuff has quality issues. Your right not usually a Shimano trait. The derailuer clutch is also prone to failure. Mine recently broke the peice that holds the clutch in place, so now it can bounce off randomly, clutch wont hold in place. However, I have my xt 12 speed shifting great. Had one of the original xt pulleys crack, replaced them with xtr shifting has been great since. Not sure if maybe the original xt pulleys flex more than the xtr, but it made a noticable difference. I have a friend whose been through three xt 12 shifters.
these rims have nipples holes under the rim tape right or are they installed by fishing magnets
No fishing magnets here...
@@LoveMTB my bad, I mean does it still have holes for nipples inside the center part where the tire contacts
or is it holeless rim where the spokes are installed using magnets then tightened with the only hole being the valve for air
edit: Sorry for the long question, here where I live bikes shops dont have much options that I can check
@@lence2775i thought just regular rims with holes but with rims tape on top of it
Cup n Cone bearings are a complete fail as an upgrade. It seems Shimano is trying to grab the stock rim market on mtb’s. Step up to precision bearings Shimano!🙏🔑✌️
As a content creator, do you really think these rims are an “UPGRADE”?🙏🔑✌️
@@LoveMTB 100%😎 It’s the old skool bearings on a modern enduro design. It makes no sense to upgrade rims if precision bearings are not included. Upgrade they definitely are not! Bearings then asymmetry. That’s my point. Content creators are susceptible to less than accurate narratives to attract sponsors to their channels. 🙏🔑✌️
Can these Shimano rims accept precision sealed bearings? Diameter compatibility availability? Etc.
There are many other asym. options in the US. 🙏🔑✌️
@@oldamanbastard7201 the rims can - you can buy the wheel, cut the spokes and lace the rim with e.g. a DT Swiss hub :D (but DT Swiss freehubs aren't perfect either with their very hard to unscrew 'ring nut').
That’s 😄. Best advice is to research hubs that are low friction and high engagement on the rear. Next is rim manufacturers. Welds on alloy and warranty on carbon. Weight weenies cringe. Dt Swiss 240. With 56t ratchet or better yet Onyx Vespar. So many good choices and so many bad ones as well. 🙏🔑✌️
I would not buy shimano freehub again, I am tired of lubing that part over and over again. Luckily I found a thread about this problem instantly when I had it for the first time.
@@LoveMTB In the dealer's manual of the freehub, page 16, figure 3. there is a spacer with pins, each pin must be greased along with the top of the spacer. Also a seal that goes on top of it must be greased from inner side. When brand new it was fine for 500+ km, I greased it with thicker grease and it held for 2000 km, after that the noise came back and it is fine now after greasing again. There is a reddit thread about it "Shimano Microspline Freehub Noise" Hope that helps.
wow they really stuck with unsealed bearings. that's not very impressive
@@LoveMTB It's a pain in the ass to get it right between excessive play and rubbing/drag, but it's not coincidence that many pro xc racers use those hubs exclusively for races - they have less rolling resistance than industrial sealed bearings. Probably most of that drag comes from the seal, but who knows. Anyway, industrial bearings are the way to go for average rider not keen on servicing. My front wheel has them and I never touched them for now almost 20000 kms. Rear wheel, got second one, and still fiddling with cup & cones every once in a while.
18mm spanner.... I thought it was 17mm
Shimano issues:
Too good product at too good price (issue for other brands)
well u buy for riding not for looks
Never again shimano microspin hub. 2000km dead due to crown washer wear - exchange to new fixed washer redesign by shimano does not help.
Boo no buzz 🐝 sounds
My x1900 dtswiss still better :D
For sure its expensive... so it should not be creeking
Cup and cone? Still?Boooo
@@LoveMTB I can never get them to not feel gritty without having play in the axle.
@@s14tat Yup, it's kinda black art to get it right, same as in their pd-m540 pedal. And they don't last forever if not regularly cleaned and lubed. I replaced two worn-out cones, and had a worn cup, so replaced the whole wheel.
12 speed lol
These wheels don't deserve any good press. Unless you like creaky freehubs that eventually explode into a hot janky mess. Shimano Clearly over engineered every part of this mess and I hate dealing with them.
@@LoveMTB I haven't owned these but I have now worked on several. The hub is way too complex, using several different fastening methods hidden behind c clips, springs and all sorts of mess. and there is a plastic glide sleeve sort of thing on the inside of the freehub mechanism that usually breaks pretty quickly and fouls the hub.
Don't buy these hubs. Worst Shimano product I've ever bought. Started creaking and howling within a few months use.
Wish I had done research before having a wheel built with them. Garbage.
Unfortunately I agree, not the best product release. And XTR nevertheless
what a ugly bike kekw
Heavy and over engineered hubs. Reliability is poor too. I love Shimano, but I cannot trust their wheels. Swapped them right away for DTSwiss.