Ring Cutting Jig Bowl from a Board - Wood Turning
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 2 ต.ค. 2024
- I came up with an easy way for me to cut rings for a bowl from a board which is also called a band saw bowl or economy bowl. This way I can cut from one piece instead of 2 pieces. This saves needing to glue the rings together separately.
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This is how I cut the rings and you are responsible for choosing how you cut them.
The video is for entertainment purposes only
Look up other turnings I have done:
Dizzy Twister Turnings Segmented Turnings
Feature Rings Staves
Star bowl Block bowl
Tumbling bowls Emerging Bowls Black Locust Vase
Droop Bowl Offset Bowl Barrel of Blocks Star Bowl Bowl in a Bowl
Droop Bowl Lathe modifications Lacquer Shellac Friction Polish
Abrasive Paste Polishing Paste Wipe on Poly Black Locust Hollow Form
Multi Axis Square Bowl Siberian Elm Hollow Form
Dodecahedron Soccer Ball Sphere Olive Wood Turnings Illusions Segmented Vase
Thanks for making and sharing this video. It was a pleasure to imagine the gears in your head turning as you designed and made this jig. Great stuff.
Your apprenticeship comments are important, too. From my limited experience, I would say this: If you are fortunate to spend time with a patternmaker, a cabinetmaker, or master carpenter, (preferably one of the "old guys"), pay attention and listen. Work your butt off to prove your worth, and then ask them, to teach you, if they will. You will not regret it.
Thanks again!
Thanks so much Jerry, This fixture was fun to come up with. Started by bouncing around in my head then I modeled it up in cad to make sure it would work.
I enjoyed teaching the apprentices we had at work.
Thanks for watching,
Gary
Hi Gary, I really love these Economy Bowls and how people make them. Your jig suggests plenty of variations for other type jigs - Thanks !! 👍 Keep 'em coming👍 Take care. -Mike😷
Thank you Mike. I just did the first part of a glue up for another one.
Thanks for watching.
Gary
@@ThePapa1947 👍😎
Thank you ThePapa1947. This is the best video on woodturning I've seen in a while.
Thank you very much. I appreciate your comment and thanks for watching,
Gary
Super good idea!!!
Thank you Emmett and thanks for watching
Gary
A great way to use wood without wasting! Thanks for the videos, keep em comming!
Thank you Tim and yesterday I glued up some more leftover pieces(scraps) for a a different version that is not cut on the bandsaw.
Thanks for watching,
Gary
Hi Gary, I very much appreciate your sharing this technique with us. You are truly a skilled and sharing craftsman with a big heart!!
Thank you very much Edwin for your kind words. Sharing is a gift for all including the person doing the sharing. Happy to do it. Now if I know the winning numbers of the next big lottery I may keep those to myself LOL. But I never buy those tickets anyway.
Thanks for watching,
Gary
Just bought a new Shop Fox wood lathe from Grizzly to replace a Jet Mini Lathe. Looking forward to applying this to my next bowl. I will add a 45 and 30 slot to this fixture for future use.
Sounds great Robert. I left enough room on mine to add more slows. But I wanted to show this is the simplest way I could.
Thanks for watching.
Gary
Thanks for the detailed instructions. I have a piece of butcher block countertop that this would be an ideal starter bowl.
Yes that would make a great looking bowl. Thanks for watching,
Gary
Great little jig, Gary, good thinking 👍🏻 and the bowls that you show at the end all look fantastic!!! Well done, really beautiful 👏🏻
Thank you very much. Happy you liked everything and thanks for watching.
Gary
Nice! I know what I'm doing this weekend starting with fabricating one of these jigs. Thanks Gary!
Thank you Mark. These are so much fun to make I think I will be gluing up a new blank today. I think it will be pretty cool...at least I hope so.
Thanks for watching,
Gary
Thanks so much Gary what a great idea Take care. Dave 👌👍👍
Thank you Dave happy you liked it!
Cheers,
Gary
Very interesting...
Thanks for sharing
Thank you and thanks for watching.
Gary
Thanks I hope ti is ok that I saved this video so I can watch it at a later date and make this cutting Gig. I really enjoy your video's. Thanks Again Tim
Thank you Tim and of course it is ok for you to save it and I am pleased that you want to.
Thanks for watching and commenting,
Gary
Glad You solved some issues with this jig, Gary 👌 I was testing this idea and one big problem which I had were horrible tearouts on the back side of the rings. Had to sand them down and the rings not matched to good. I have to work a bit on mine jig and tested it few times.
Everything with Yours works as You planned. Well done Brother 💪
Rav
Thank you Rav and for sure there can be tear out on the back. I have thought about have a waste board on the back side to help prevent it. But what I do is as soon as I get real close I sharpen the tool again and take very light cuts.
A secured piece of MDF would probably do the trick. I will work on something like that and see how it works out. I am going to do another turning using this process.
Take care my friend,
Gary
@@ThePapa1947 Gary, if You will use an MDF on the back so I will take a tape. It helps with drilling or cutting on the table saw so maybe here will help too. I'll be looking forward for Your next project with this process. It saves wood and looks great 👌😀
Hope the Sun is on Your sky every day.
Rav
Thanks for sharing, interesting process. Full View and Like always.
Thank you Allen. I appreciate you watching and commenting.
Gary
The one area I need to understand better is the width of the ring being cut. I've heard that the width should be the same as the thickness of the stock. So on 4/4 stock I would cut the ring 1" wide and for 8/4 wood it would be 2" wide. Is that correct and are there other factors to consider in the width of the ring. I love all your videos and have learned so much from you. Thank you!
The width can be the same if you are cutting 45 degree angles. I recommend 45 degrees for your first one.
I also would not use stock thicker than 1 inch.
Hope that helps.
Gary
Hi Gary - Great little jig idea - thanks for sharing! PS - I had to smile when I saw the angle gauge you used 1st! I don't think that is a recent addition to your box of tools!! Any chance that your dad bought that?? Best regards & Stay Safe. Dennis
Thank you Denis! Well that fist angle gauge I used is a Starrett that I bought as a fairly young apprentice. So it is a bit old for sure. When I started the first thing my boss(the owner) did was ordered the square set, shrink rules, dividers and so on. Then took it out of my check slowly till it was paid off. But I acquired many more tools from retired wood pattern makers that were very old and I still use some of them today.
Thanks for watching,
Gary
I didn’t get the most difficult part for me. I understand how you got the angle, and marked it, but my question is, how did you cut that strip of wood, at that angle , so it would lay on you banjo
I laid a piece of wood against the tool rest and then marled the top edge so it was level to the bed of the lathe.
I am in the process of making an easier one as well. But this one works just fine.
Hope that helps.
Gary
The artists and craftsmen that I respect the most are the ones that are most willing to pass on their skills. You are definitely on that list! Thank you, also, for encouraging the next generation!
Thank you so much Kathleen. I have found that the more I learned from others the more I could learn on my own. If that makes any sense. I guess it was confidence in doing something that let me explore was of doing things on my own. This is base on my years as a wood pattern maker but applies to everything.
So I enjoy sharing what I can.
Thanks for watching and your comments.
Gary
Awesome instructions, Gary. You are a born teacher, my friend. Thanks for sharing your immense knowledge. We all appreciate it!!! 👍👍😃😃
Happy turning,
.....Gord
Thank you Gord for your kind words. I have learned a lot about presenting information from watching your videos and smooth way of putting them together.
Take care,
Gary
Great video. I made my fixture a while back & have still now attempted a bowl. How do you hold the blank on the lathe?
Thank you Terry. I think I mentioned it but should have shown it. I had a waste block with a tenon hot glued to the bottom. But you can also use a nice piece of hardwood that complements the bowl and glue it on the bottom.
Turning a tenon on it first then centering it on the blank.
Thanks for watching,
Gary
How did you come up with where to cut each ring so they can stack together?
The way I do it is to cut the first ring and then measure the bottom inside diameter. That becomes the top outside diameter of the next piece. This is a way to get them perfect. This works especially good if I change the angle of the cut to give the walls a little bit of a curve.
Thanks for watching,
Gary
Thanks so much, what a great idea! Can’t wait to build mine and try it out! Stay safe over there!
Thank you so much and be safe as well.
Gary
Hi Gary...
Great little jig... I will definitely be making one of those....
Thank you for your inspiration...
Take care...All the best.....Andy
Thanks so much Andy. I enjoy making fixtures and jigs. I am working on one right now(in my head) for helping in the segment process.
Thanks for watching.
Gary
Hi Garyi, Enjoyed your video and process. I've recently used a similar method to cut the rings. I used a parting tool and am curious where did you obtan your parting tool? Handmade and purchased. Looks to be about 1/16" thick?
Thank you James. Look up Robert Sorby Micro Parting tool. I know Amazon has them as well as Rockler.
It is 1/4 inch by .08 thick.
This sort of thing always seems so simple, unless you've never seen it before, and then it seems like pure awesome. Taking the time to show some common sense build-ups is really a priceless gift to viewers. Thanks!
Thank you William that is very kind of you to say.
Thanks for watching,
Gary
@@ThePapa1947 I really appreciate your insights here. Getting into other parts of woodworking has been pretty easy with content on TH-cam but turning has been one of the more challenging things to find good instruction. You're really delivering some fantastic tutorials and inspiration. Thanks for your work!
Thanks for the tutorial. What keeps the tool from binding while cutting?
Thank you. The height of the tool only being .25 inch helps a lot. I drew it up and it has clearance as I cut but you need to keep good control of the tool and clear the chips a lot.
Thanks for watching.
Gary
Hello again Gary this is Jim in Baker City. I got your message and tried to reply to it but it would not let me do that for some reason. I had a question for you and here it is: Gary, would the last name of those folks who owned the hardware store here have been Warrington. I worked in the Portland Fire Department with a guy by the name of Gary Warrington and his Mom and Dad owned the Ace True Value hardware store here back in the 1980's.
Hi Jim, no it was not that name and they had the hardware store way before then. I think it was in the 60's because they were in Florence OR and had the hardware store in 1971 or before.
Good news is an Ace Hardware store coming near us. Part of the new Trader Joes right down the street. Used to be grocery store. I like this because it is walking distance if we want.
Great tutorial. We all appreciate it. But I'm still not clear on one thing. On the face of the turning, you're making a mark to cut your first ring. If the wood is 1" thick how far in do you cut your rings. And I'm sure its different at 45° and/or 50°. There must be some formula the helps with this for all thicknesses and diameter. If thickness is X and diameter is Y then mark and cut at Z.
Thank you Art Lee!
So if it was 45 degrees and a 1 inch board the common thing to do is step over 1 inch.
What I do is make my fist cut then measure the inside bottom of the first ring. I transfer diameter onto the piece still on the lathe. That will be the inside dimension of the next ring. You will want to leave the line and then the diameters should be the same. This works for any angle you decide to cut.
If you did want to make 45 degrees and not do the measuring then space the lines to match the board thickness and then cut down the middle of the line.
But to make a perfect match I would do it as I explained above.
Hope this helps and if not let me know.
Gary
I have many of your projects the best videos I have ever watched, my wuestion is what size lathe are you using for some videos like live edge bowels do not work on my Nova Comet II is 12"
Thanks Walle
Thank you Wayne. I use the Laguna 1836. You can scale things down for your lathe. But none of these are over 12" in diameter.
My calculations say you could make an 8 3/8 square bowl on your lathe.
Thanks for watching,
Gary
Actually I saw this on another channel, but they really didn't explain things. I even tried a bowl, using the bandsaw. Unfortunately, my glue up was not very good, and I wound up scrapping it. Now that I have the whole story I can now try again. Enjoyed it and its a pretty bowl.
Thank you Harry, happy you enjoyed it. Just something I came up with and I see others are doing it now. I never did like band sawing the rings then gluing them back together.
Thanks for watching.
Gary
Thank You Gary Very Much.... This is great!!! When a craftsman describes his "tricks". So many different ways of getting to the end of a project and each person has their own way of doing things. Most craftsmen are quiet as to how they achieve their mysterious results??? I applaud your honest, open, "how to" so that others can understand and become skilled in a way they had, perhaps, not thought of.. I especially enjoyed your comment from your old pattern maker when you were an apprentice!!! (more please... perhaps on a poster for all to enjoy) .. I remember talking to a foundry shop Forman's comment about how impressed he was as to how quickly his patternmakers could produce an impeller entirely with hand tools. ( I just wish I could have heard first hand from the patternmaker) ........ TM
Thank you Tuffy! When I get photos from wood turners of projects they have made based of what I have come up with it is very rewarding to me.
I have made a lot of impeller patterns over the years as well as the pump cases they fit in. They are really fun to make. I made one pump case when stood up was taller than me. I will send you a picture of it. All I have is a picture of the casting and now I wish I would have taken pictures of every pattern I made.
Thanks for your comments and watching my friend,
Gary
I agree 100%👍🏻
Superbly demonstrated Gary ! and another great little jig to join the armoury.
Although my trade wasn't anything to do with making things from wood I often heard the old men that are long gone advising when I used to work on the land .
Cheers, Bram
Thank you Bram and for sure when you start out in something new it is wise to listen to the older guys. Especially in my case as he was the owner and boss of the shop LOL.
Thanks for watching,
Gary
Gary, back in my boat building days (70's) I got many tips from a retired pattern maker. ......and yes, I repeat them to my self and share them. The circle continues.
Louis, I worked for him for 7 more years after serving my 5 year apprenticeship. Then years later he dropped into the pattern shop I moved on to and was impressed with what I was making at the time. I was able to tell him that the reason I could build something like it was because of his training and trust he had in me. That felt good to be able to tell him this.
Thanks for watching,
Gary
Easiest way I have seen done , other demos I have seen call for cutting board in half, cutting rings with a bandsaw and glueing back together
Thank you Doyle. That is how I did my first one but it is so much harder to glue that way I tried to come up with an easier way.
Thanks for watching,
Gary
Thanks for sharing. I think I will make one with several angles for use with boards of different thickness.
Thank you Dean, does not hurt to have a few extra angles to choose from.
Thanks for watching,
Gary
Awesome job thanks so much I will be building this for sure.
Very nice. Let me know if you have any questions.
Gary
Hey Papa! I chuckled a little bit when you were talking about your mentor the pattern maker! I have a friend who was a young apprentice pattern maker near the end of WW II. He made patterns for the PBY airplanes! Most if not all of them were made right here in San Diego. The same buildings he worked in are still there. SpaWars occupies it now. Then after WW II he stayed on during the cold war making patterns for many different types of airplanes. He has a nice wood shop in his garage. I would stop by and watch him working and ask questions. That tool you were using to make 50 degree angles, the roundish one, looks like the one he has! The old boy is a wealth of knowledge with lots of old tools that he swears by! Unfortunately he's now too old to work the power tools. They scare him as his grip is not as good as it used to be. I think he's 94 or so now. Making patterns and others things out of wood was his whole life for many decades....
Thank you Mark. I loved my job as a journey patternmaker.
Made lots of cool things over the years.
Your friend sounds like a pretty cool guy.
Thanks for watching.
Gary
Great idea. It a real pain having to deal with the halves. Have you tried angles greater that 50 deg? What would happen at 30 deg? Great job.
Thank you Hamp! I have done 60 degrees and it works fine. If you used 30 degrees the walls would be pretty straight up and down and you may have issues with wall thickness being a little on the thin side. That would depend on how thick the board is to start with.
Thanks for watching,
Gary
hello Gary thank you for the explanation is it better to make an angle at 50 degrees or 45
you do a great job on the net thank you very much
see you soon
bernard of france
Thank you Bernard, it really does not matter which angle you use and there is very little difference between the 45 and the 50 degree cut. When I drew the shape I liked what the 50 looked like but 45 would have been fine.
Plus I already had a 45 degree jig and wanted to show how I make it so picked 50 just to have one.
Thanks for watching,
Gary
Great jig, love those dizzy bowls. Thanks for sharing.
Thank you Tony and thanks for watching.
Gary
is there a formula for determining the ring width? I have been watching this and wanting to do it. Nice video. Thanks for Sharing
If you were to cut the angle on a 45 the spacing would be the same as the thickness of the board.
So 1" thick means 1" wide rings and so on.
I've noticed that you use laquer and polycrylic as finishes. Do you have a rule as to when to use either one? Do you always use sanding sealer on all of your bowls?
I like lacquer and Polycrylic on segmented turnings mostly. And that is to get the shine. If any of the segmented turnings have a mix of Padauk and lighter wood I will spray lacquer just to keep it from bleeding. With lacquer I normal do not use a sealer.
Gary
Great jig. I really enjoy your videos. What size parting tool do you use?
Thank you very much. This was a very small parting tool. It measures 1/4 inch high and .08 thick.
Thanks for watching,
Gary
I've had a lot of success using rare earth magnets in my jigs. What about recessing a couple of rare earth magnets on the tool rest side of the jig to hold it in place?
That is a great idea Randy. I would make sure the tool is resting on the tool rest and the jig just used as a guide.
Thanks for watching,
Gary
Thank you for sharing. I quite enjoyed this and learned a cool new thing.
Thank you Michael, happy you enjoyed it and thanks for watching.
Gary
I've made your metal jig and it is simply amazing! Thank you so much for sharing this technique. I have a question; how far from the edge of the board should I be making my first cut? I'm using 3/4" thick material and a 45 degree angle so I've been starting 3/4" from the edge. I think I can go less though, as the 2nd and 3rd rings are not 3/4". Any advice on how to determine that first cut width? Thanks in advance!
Thank you Adam.
I determine the first cut based on if I want any kind of a lip on the bowl. So be careful it can use up a lot of stock.
I also will change some of the angles to get a curved side.
Thanks! I've used that info and made a 45-55-55 bowl, no lip. Thank you again for putting this on TH-cam.
Hey, maybe i missed it, but foes your iron get hot, due to the friction?
Love the video thanks.
Thank you very much. When you say iron do you mean the parting tool? It can get hot but I try to have light cuts and pull it out to clean the chips so not bad if you do that.
Thanks for watching,
Gary
Hi,would I be correct in thinking that the width of the ring should be equal to the thickness of the board,or does it not matter?m
Hi Peter, if you were cutting a 45 degree angle then yes the width would be the same as the thickness of the board.
Thanks for watching,
Gary
Thank you papa.i love your idea.it works excellent.
Thank you Michael very happy you like my method.
Thanks for watching,
Gary
Gary, I noticed in the video where you used a forstner bit to cut an extra deep hole in a vase that you had an extension for the bit. Is that extension something you made on your metal lathe or did you purchase it and if so do you mind sharing the name and source for the extension?
Thank you Edwin and I made the extension but I think you can find the easy enough to buy. I have seen them on Amazon. And I have seen them at Rocklers.
But you need to find the right size for your forstner bit shaft. Probably why I made it.
Thanks for watching,
Gary
Gary, this is so cool. Are you using a parting tool as your cutter? I hope your healing process is going well.
Thank you Dick, yes a parting tool.
Trying to get to the doctor for a follow up.
They had to cancel twice due to very icy roads.
Hopefully tomorrow but it is feeling better thanks.
Gary
Nice information thanks for sharing take care my friend.
Thank you Sagar and thanks for watching.
Best wishes,
Gary
I like it... which angle did you use to cut the rings please. Thank you
Thank you Oscar, I cut these at 45 degrees as I recall. But I also do 50. 55 and 60 degrees.
I'm going to have to try that. Is there any particular chuck that is used to mount the wood?
Thank you Tim. There are a few options on how I mount it.
You could turn a recess on the piece and then mount it and start cutting rings.
Or glue a piece of wood on the bottom that has a turned tenon on it and then remove the tenon when all done.
A nice piece of wood because it will become part of the turning.
Or what I also do is hot glue a piece on that has the tenon and remove it when all done.
All done on the standard 4 jaw chuck of your choice.
Hope that helps and thanks for watching,
Gary
Is the tool your using a parting tool. Looks like it’s 1/8” thick
Yes it is a parting tool and it is just a little over 1/16 inch thick.
HI gary thank u so so much in shearing ur making of ur jig. I defiantly make one so so easy now that u hashed it to us all.
Thank you Manjit for watching and commenting.
Take care,
Gary
Hi, nice jig but what difference does the angle make, and is there a ratio to the angle of cut to the thickness of the wood.
I generally try to be right about 1 inch.
Thanks for watching.
Gary
Well that’s inspired me to give this a go, thanks very much
Thank you Phil and be sure and let me know how it goes.
Take care,
Gary
Hey Gary (Papa) as always a perfect overview and process to build a useful jig. So glad your subs are growing, soon be 100k Thanks for sharing
Thank you Jim I am happy you found it useful. Well it is growing but 100K is a ways out. Might need a great big boast! LOL
Thanks for watching,
Gary
Love this jig. Can't wait to try it out. How do you secure the board to the chuck?
Thank you, I normally glue a piece of wood to the bottom that I have already turned a tenon on it. That becomes the actual base of the bowl. I have also just hot glued a tenon on if I do not want base made from another type of hardwood.
Hope this helps and thanks for watching,
Gary
When you make the first cuts how far in do you go? And for each rings 3/4” ea??
Tia Michael
Michael my first cut varies based on the shape I want on the rim. If you want to flare it out 3/4" is good. If I want just a little flare the 1/4" is good.
As far as stepping it over measure the thickness of the board and that is how far you draw your lines. Cut down the middle of the line and they should line up
If you use a different angle than 45 I make the cut and then measure the inside bottom. That becomes the outside top of the next ring.
This is how I do all of mine.
You can see that in my video on making a curved bowl from board
Gary
@@ThePapa1947 thanks , I have boards I want to try this on ,but can’t make up my mind to where the first cut will be
When you see it, it's easy.😊
You made a well thought out jig Gary. I'm going to try this soon.
Thanks a lot, also for the glue tips.
👍Frank.
Thank you Frank. Happy you enjoyed it.
Take care,
Gary
Great, can always learn something from your video, thank you so much, Gary,👍👍👍👍
Thanks Gao and your BACK!
Hope it is all fixed up.
Very useful insight Gary and love that dovetail bowl. This project is definitely worth trying. Must find the time! All the best. Ray
Thank you Ray and time is just something we can not seem find or buy.
Take care,
Gary
@@ThePapa1947 I wonder whether there will be lathes in heaven?😁
👍👍👍
Thanks so much!!!
@@ThePapa1947 great job
Thanks for this tip, Gary. I’ve made several “economy” bowls using the other method you described. Your system seems much better and I’ll now follow your lead. Thanks again
David, Blackpool, UK
Thank you David, what I did not like about doing it on the bandsaw was it added one more glue joint and at some times the design was such that you needed to line up those glue joints to keep it. Which makes for a weak spot in the bowl.
Thanks for watching,
Gary
I have been using this method for some time, turning out bowls of up to 16” on my old Nove lathe. My problem is that there is very often quite a bit of tearout on the backside of my cut with the parting tool, takes some time to clean up before gluing. The processed lumber used for these types of bowls is a bit dry and brittle. Do you have this problem? Any good solution?
I do not get the tear out.
What works for me is to make sure the tool is sharp before cutting through. A diamond stone will give you the needed
burr.
The big thing is let the tool cut. Do not force it through.
You can hear how close it is.
Works for me.
Also my parting tool is .08 inches wide.
@@ThePapa1947 My Parting Tool is 5/64, so about the same size, I'll try to slow it down just a bit.
That will help for sure
I am new to this and trying to learn, I have a 1/8 x 1/2 inch parting tool will this work. yours appears narrower on the video. Thanks for your great videos I am learning a lot just watching you.
Hi Ralph, my parting tool is 1/4 tall. Depending on the diameter you are cutting a 1/2 inch might not work on smaller rings. It has to clear the slot or it can bind. If you draw 2 circles with one 1 1/8 wider than the others you can see if your parting tool has clearance. I have found some that are the right size and after I test it I will let everyone know if I think it is a good tool for the job.
Thanks for watching,
Gary
@@ThePapa1947 Thank you for your advise.
cheers fella i was wondering how to make one 👍👍Ross
Thank you and now you know.
Thanks for watching.
Cheers,
Gary
Absolutely love watching your videos. I have tried a couple of these bowls but they keep coming out really thin. May I ask what thickness is the wood when you cut it into rings and at what angle have you found that works best?
Thank you Carol. I like the board to be close to 1" thick. But anything between 3/4" and 1" works.
The important thing is your step over. If you watch some of my other bowls from a board I show a perfect way to make sure you get the diameters lined up on each cut. What I do is make a cut then measure what the bottom diameter is on that ring. That becomes the top inside diameter of the next ring.
If you have any issues with that you can email me and I can send you an image of how it works.
Thanks for watching,
Gary
@@ThePapa1947 thank you for you help. I will give that a try.
I watched one of your videos when you used this jig and was wondering how to make one thank you for this video. One thing how wide between the cuts do you move the banjo. The same thickness of the wood or more?
Thank you Rocky Palmiere from California
Thank you very much Robert. I have a different way of figuring that out and I have to say it is much better than any other way I have tried or seen.
The old rule was if you are using a 1 inch board and cutting a 45 you do move the line over 1 inch. But I do not make them 45 most of the time and I can make some 45 and some 55 or more degrees. This will let you have a little curve instead of a straight side.
So I make my first cut and measure the inside bottom of that first ring. That dimension will now be the inside top of the next ring. That will now match the other one perfectly. No matter what your angle ended up being.
This video explains my method. If you need to know more you can email me and I can explain it but that video should help a lot.
th-cam.com/video/0zJlsPsNKxM/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=ThePapa1947
Thanks for watching,
Gary
Thank you
Thanks Gary, I appreciate you sharing a part of your wealth of knowledge
You are very welcome Mark. Happy you liked it.
Take care,
Gary
Thank you very much for that Gary! I’m definitely going to make one. I suppose you could practice making the rings with any flat stock?
Cheers, Rick
Hi Rick, happy you liked it and yes for sure you could use any flat stock to practice on. I used a piece of rather plain looking Walnut for the rings I show it the video. I will end up gluing them together and finishing them as well. But today i am going to glue up a a board with many pieces. Hope it works out!
Thanks for watching,
Gary
Gary I really like this idea of making your segments bowls, it really reduces the amount of cutting one needs to do and also reduces the amount of wood one needs to purchase. I was wondering though if your parting angle HAS to be 45 degrees. Can you achieve similar results by using other angles to make a flatter bowl or deeper bowl? I understand that there needs to be enough overlap to allow you enough wood for turning, but I think it should be possible to use other angles, but maybe the width of the ring needs to be adjusted accordingly?
Thank you Peter! Yes for sure you can use other angles.
One thing to watch for is the more angle the smaller the base will become. Less angle and you have to watch the wall thickness as it can get a bit thin.
I will be doing a video soon on how to make sure the rings match even with different angles which can give a more curved side wall.
Thanks for watching,
Gary
@@ThePapa1947 Thanks for the response Gary. I suppose if a person was to use a flatter angle, since the base gets smaller..... just make the bowl a bit higher and eliminate the bottom ring. I like your idea of adding a separate base using a different type of wood, that looks really cool, plus it would solve the issue of flatter angles. Another advantage of the separate base piece is that the separate base could be completely pre-machined, sanded and even finished, just leave a feature for the mortise for the chuck to hang onto. Then it can be permanently glued to the bowl base.
Another feature to look at would be to see if there is a way to incorporate 2 or more different angles so that the bowl could be made with something other than a single fixed straight taper. Maybe start out with a deeper section then flatten out at the top, or the reverse. Maybe 3 angles, start out deep, then go flatter, then go deep again to have a steep finishing top rim. I understand that this is getting into some kinky stuff, but you're likely looking for something new to try out anyway.
Very nice idea, i will probably try it.
Keep on turning 😃
Thank you very much. Have fun when you give it a try.
Gary
Great idea
Thanks you Chris and thanks for watching.
Gary
I always thought wood glue had to be clamped. Great video Gary! I will use that advice from the wise pattern maker that I am learning from!
Thank you Chris. As long as you have 2 flat pieces you can get a great joint. Long before a wedgie sled I would make large segments for rings larger than 4 foot diameter and would just use rub joints on them. But stacking the rings I will always clamp them.
Thanks for watcing,
Gary
Thank you so much Gary. Great information to help us build one our selves. Take care.
Thank you Kent and thanks for watching and commenting.
Gary
My Dad taught me to weld and I can still hear him when I am welding.
I bet that is pretty common. Funny when we first got a computer I can still hear my youngest son telling me how to do this or that LOL.
Beautiful bowl and thanks for the great video. is there a recommended parting tool or preferred thickness of the parting tool and a suggested vendor
Thank you Doug.
The Robert Sorby micro parting tool is what I use and recommend.
great and thanks for the quick reply @@ThePapa1947
2 kayu berbeda di jadikan mangkok wao indah sekali
Terima kasih banyak dan ya 2 jenis kayu bisa terlihat sangat bagus bersama.
Terima kasih telah menonton,
Gary
@@ThePapa1947 istimewa
Thank you, as soon as I get moved to PA and set up my new workshop I will be making one of those jigs.
Sounds great Ron and thanks so much for watching and commenting.
Gary
@@ThePapa1947 You are welcome, keep up the great videos
Thank you, this is a great informative video
Thank you Vern, happy you enjoyed it.
Gary
Absolutely fantastic Gary. I love this jig because you don't have to glue the two board halves together and you don't have a hole to plug like the Ringmaster. Well done my friend. 👍🏻 I will be making one of these asap.
Thank you Dave, what I love about it is I do not have to buy an expensive machine to do the same thing. I did one once on my metal lathe and put a glue block on the bottom so I did not have to pass a bolt through it. With my method you have to be gentle when cutting through the board or it can splinter. I always sharpen back up when I know I am close.
I ordered some very thin parting blades and holder and will be working on a way to use them.
Thanks for watching,
Gary
Can you change the angle from ring to ring to make a different profile bowl instead of a cone shape. Like maybe more like a curved side.
Yes you can. Keeping a wall thickness will the key thing to pay attention to.
I will draw something up and see if I can show how to do it.
@@ThePapa1947 thank you I appreciate your time to respond. I will be looking forward to seeing your expertise on this.
I'll have to try to adapt this jig to fit my lathe, but it should work just fine. Thanks for posting this video Gary.
I wish you would expand the possibilities of the bowl from a board and make a sort of hollow form from two boards or even two contrasting boards. Basically a bowl and a lid using the same technique for the top section. I'm picturing a vessel that tapers back above the widest point a bit with a lid on top. If the rings are cut to the same incremental diameters you could alternate contrasting woods. Perhaps thinner (3/4" or 1/2") boards would make it easier to make the shape flow more smoothly. Just an idea that has been bouncing around in my head. What do you think?
Thanks Gil and it is something to think about.
Using the bowl from a board ends up with a somewhat cone shape so the hollow from have that look.
A sketch of what you are thinking might help.
Thanks for watching and the idea.
Gary
@@ThePapa1947 I don't have the software to draw it up digitally so I'll try my manual drafting skills to make a sketch. I think my drafting skills might be a little rusty after 20 years away from the work. ;-)
@@gilgrace1915 should be close enough🤣
Very interesting, professor. Well explained and easy to understand. 😊
Phil
Thank you Phil! With this new title I might have to ask for a raise. Never mind then I would have to have a job lol 😆!
Thanks for watching buddy,
Gary
What type of hot glue do you use to secure the stock to the lathe?
I use a general purpose hot glue stick.
I've been on vacation and just now catching up. Thanks SO much for this video. I love the bowls you make with this method and I WILL be making a jig to try my hand at it! Thanks again for all you do! Great entertainment and education.
Thank you Garry and welcome back. Happy you like this method...more coming.
Take care
Gary
I will make and use this jig thank you
Thank you Gary and a number of made it. I have found some better quality parting tools that are small like I used. When mine gets here I will let everyone know if it is a good one.
Take care,
Gary
Thanks for sharing your experience! New jigs for me, I especially liked the pointing out that clamping works so much better when the elements are parallel to each other. The many tips through the build are priceless. Thanks again and I'm looking forward to viewing many more from you sir.
Thank you so much Ian! I have done many where I have made half rings. Mostly on dizzy bowls where the rings might be as thin as 1/8". The next time I do a dizzy bowl I will work out a way to do it like this.
Thanks for watching,
Gary
More big hugs from a 77 year old gramma in Cowichan Valley B.C. Canada. I was just downstairs making a bowl from a board. I read somewhere about 45 degree angles and made a jig. I could only get one ring from the board. Wish I had watched your video this morning. I understand now about placement of tool rest etc . when cutting the angle. I enjoy your videos and always so impressed by your turnings.
Thank you so much for sharing
Thank you very much. You are on track for success.
I have a number of videos showing an easy way to make sure your rings line up no matter what angle you cut.
Feel free to ask if you have any questions.
Soon to be 77 here in Oregon.
Gary
77 Yr-olds ROCK! 👍
Thank you very much Lacey. Seems we are both as young as each other.
Happy you like my videos.
Gary
WOW --- thank you for sharing!
Thank you Joel, happy you enjoyed it.
Gary
That's great information thanks
Thank and thanks for watching.
Gary
Very neat and thank you for sharing.
Thank you Dennis, I appreciate you watching and commenting.
Gary
I find this very interesting ‼️‼️
Thank you Henry.
Thanks for watching,
Gary
How do I make the parting tool?
The jig or the actual parting tool? I have another video showing how I made the jig.
The tool /chisel that you use to cut the rings what edge does it have?? I love this method. I checked out the software too that you mentioned however this looks easier since i am just beginning. Thanks.
Thank you Sandi, the tool is a mini parting tool. And yes this is an easy way to do it.
Thanks for watching,
Gary
@@ThePapa1947 do you know the size of the parting tool? I am just starting out i have “normal’ set, i did find a mini parting tool 3/32” is that about the size of yours??
@@serenityacres mine is .07 inch by .25 inch tall. I think 3/32 should work if it is not too tall.
Keep it simple, Nice Work!
Thank you John!